Yeah my father kept having to replace broken glass because we were an end house next to an alleyway and got quite a few broken windows by vandals but he didn't prime the wood before applying the putty so it soon dried out with the window soaking the oil out of the putty, it cracked and started letting water in even though we sealed it with paint after a few weeks.
I clean and oil or thinner my blade,and use it perpendicular to the joint for my final strike off.Then pet the joints with a dry finger several minutes later for really pretty glazing.
remove sash,inspect the ropes or chains,balancing the sash point on your knee pry out the end nailed into the side hole where the rope/chain is attached,tie a knot in this end slowly realease it so the whole rope does not fall off the roller at the top use the other knee same action in reverse, use a belt sander w medium grit to sand all sash surfaces exc the glass,,,cleaning the glass later.,place the sash where your hands can work close over the peeling or old putty,,,use a semi dull chisel to pry out the old stuff,avoid dings to the wooden edges,,,,,related item, the old guy who I worked with,actually worked for,, used a bernzomatic torch to clean out the rabbet of a busted glass pane or sash,usually it was already painted many times,if the customer wanted new glass he was told there may be burn marks during cleaning out the old putty,Otherwise using the torch on a sash where the glass is intact,the glass would break,,scraping was done in this case, when the old paint and putty is cleaned out,clean the glass with cerium oxide pumice,,one rag w hot water,a sprinkle of the powder,,scrape till the glass squeaks,another sprinkle of pumice to polish the glass,, a blower is great to get all grit and dirt off after the pumice is used, set the sash flat on the floor look down to see if it is square,rock it a bit to see if one end seems loose,,a 2D nail might be necessary to drive into the corner joint,,toe hole this with a drill so the wood does not split,,a joint loose because of dry rot can be mended solid with water based wood putty,tru valu is what I use,looks like pancake mix when you add a bit of water,,clamp it tight and let it set for a day. Sand paper each rabbet making the outside edge a bit rounded,sand the surface where the glass is too,dust off the residue,then daub with linseed oil or some oil primer,careful not to get oil or paint on the glass itself,,putty seals nice clean glass to the bead,the sash lock onto the putty bead,seals it to the glass nicely apply putty enough to fill the rabbet to a bit of overflow press in the putty with a 3/4 in curved embee knife,( cannot find this particular knife anywhere,so I use a 1 In. bent knife ..it works almost as well) a 45 degree nice flat bead should be your result,,trim off excess with the knife edges scraping down catching excess with your opposite hand,, if you have the window in the shop let it sit leaning back a bit for 2 weeks,while it sets,and forms a bit of skin on the putty surface,,,use blue glass cleaner to wipe off any putty oil,get as close to the putty as you can without hitting the putty lines,tho if you do,coat the knife with lemon oil furniture polish and flatten the ding,,this stuff is also good for re oiling a dried out batch of old putty you were prepared to toss. A long plastering trowel using the edge as a guide, ,ought to have a flat but dull edge, ,, paint the putty and sash after a couple weeks,,
Shellac is recommended when using linseed oil putty, not varnish. It's would be best to treat the wood with linseed oil before the shellac and let dry 24 hours. It's best not to paint carefully onto the glass. When the paint is dry, use a straight edge to scrap off paint and leave about 1/16" paint on the glass with a perfectly straight paint to glass line. 1/16" (min) paint on glass is important.
Great demo. What's the shelf life on putty? I have some windows I need to do and have some old putty that's been in garage about 2 years leftover from last time. It's still soft & malleable.
Sounds like it is ok. I used to put paint thinner and a few drops of raw linseed oil into stiff putty and put it in a paint shaker to kneed it back into life. I can't say that works with current wood puttys on the market.
I imagine the difference isn't so much whether your linseed oil is organic (unless it's to be eaten) but whether it is boiled or not. Isn't the whole point of boiling or adding a solvent to speed up the cure time?
The window is 120 years old and I had to take out the pane in order to remove old caulk, which prevented it from sitting properly in its frame. But now it's back in, with new caulk and putty, waiting to cure for painting.
I just bought a 1960s ranch with original wood windows. I am disabled and cannot afford to replace all the windows, so I've decided to re-glaze them... problem is I cannot figure out how to get the windows out (necessary due to window location). The windows are wood, the slide on an aluminum track. When I removed the window trim the aluminum liner prevents me from removing the window. 😮 please help (lol) 😊
I’m not positive because I’ve never done one myself, but I believe if you take the trim and the stop out, the metal slides are held in with only a couple of small nails at the top in the bottom and after you pull out those nails and the trim you can slide one side of the window out. This is just a wild guess a picture would help.
@@MrHardware1 مرحبا ياصديقي انا من.بلد.اسيوي ولدي محل لبيع زجاج النوافذ لكن اعاني من ردائت المعجون المصنع محليا هل لك ان تخبرنيعن طريقة صنع المعجون فيبلدك واكون ممتن لك في
I've been harvesting old windows to replace my existing ones and having removed a lot of panes now, I can say, back bedding does not do anything for the glaze seal AND makes it much harder to get the old window out.
@@rivernet62 The purpose of back-bedding is to make sure the glass won't be able to rattle at all. If the glass has any opportunity to move in/out, the putty will soon fail. This is also the reason to use glazier's points. At the same time, the back-bedding makes certain that the glass will be airtight! All putty begins to fail at some point, and if you don't have the back of the glass airtight, it will leak air wherever the exterior putty begins to fail. For back-bedding ONLY, a legitimate substitute for putty is acrylic caulking (siliconized acrylic is fine also), or better yet, a removable caulking such as Seal and Peel. Don't use pure silicone! It's too tough. You need a caulking that can be trimmed out with a sharp chisel when replacing the glass later. Seal and Peel removable caulking will adhere for many years, yet be the easiest to remove later to do a new back-bedding. I actually prefer caulking for back-bedding for 1 more reason: all single pane glass will get condensation, which runs to the bottom, hitting the back-bedding (unless you painted the interior after re-glazing and made sure to paint onto the glass). When the water contacts older, dried out back-bedding putty, it soaks in, beginning the failures from the INSIDE out. Water soaked into old dried putty will freeze at night. * If you use caulking for back-bedding, you don't have to remove all of it when replacing glass, only the areas where the caulking came off. Simply re-caulk those areas and lay the new glass down. The old caulk will be pliable and dead flat, so you're laying the glass on a "rubber gasket".
Hey, thanks for this video! I remembered that I need linseed oil, but I wasn't prepared for the choice between BOILED, and RAW linseed. I see you're using boiled - would raw work as well? Would priming the frame work as well? Thanks!!
Yes, that can happen sometimes with some putties. It usually takes about a month to harden, even though it should be a few weeks. Return it to the store if it doesn't harden after a one month. Don't paint it if it's soft even a bit, it must be hard as a wood. Otherwise it will crack in a few days and you will have to remove everything and clean all well before starting again.
![Window Restoration w/Allback Linseed Oil Products: Part 2 [Full]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zpJhVnc9zTE/mqdefault.jpg)
Best video on this. Short, to the point, AND detailed. Thank you for this.
Kneading the putty was an important tip, which explains my lousy results! You have a lovely smile. Thanks for sharing.
First-rate demonstration; I especially like the suggestion of sealing the wood with boiled linseed oil, and the tip about what kind of knife to use.
In the UK we use oil based primer paint
Yeah my father kept having to replace broken glass because we were an end house next to an alleyway and got quite a few broken windows by vandals but he didn't prime the wood before applying the putty so it soon dried out with the window soaking the oil out of the putty, it cracked and started letting water in even though we sealed it with paint after a few weeks.
I clean and oil or thinner my blade,and use it perpendicular to the joint for my final strike off.Then pet the joints with a dry finger several minutes later for really pretty glazing.
Fantastic video. Thank you very much for your help.
Nice video great job, thank you
remove sash,inspect the ropes or chains,balancing the sash point on your knee pry out the end nailed into the side hole where the rope/chain is attached,tie a knot in this end slowly realease it so the whole rope does not fall off the roller at the top use the other knee same action in reverse, use a belt sander w medium grit to sand all sash surfaces exc the glass,,,cleaning the glass later.,place the sash where your hands can work close over the peeling or old putty,,,use a semi dull chisel to pry out the old stuff,avoid dings to the wooden edges,,,,,related item, the old guy who I worked with,actually worked for,, used a bernzomatic torch to clean out the rabbet of a busted glass pane or sash,usually it was already painted many times,if the customer wanted new glass he was told there may be burn marks during cleaning out the old putty,Otherwise using the torch on a sash where the glass is intact,the glass would break,,scraping was done in this case, when the old paint and putty is cleaned out,clean the glass with cerium oxide pumice,,one rag w hot water,a sprinkle of the powder,,scrape till the glass squeaks,another sprinkle of pumice to polish the glass,, a blower is great to get all grit and dirt off after the pumice is used, set the sash flat on the floor look down to see if it is square,rock it a bit to see if one end seems loose,,a 2D nail might be necessary to drive into the corner joint,,toe hole this with a drill so the wood does not split,,a joint loose because of dry rot can be mended solid with water based wood putty,tru valu is what I use,looks like pancake mix when you add a bit of water,,clamp it tight and let it set for a day.
Sand paper each rabbet making the outside edge a bit rounded,sand the surface where the glass is too,dust off the residue,then daub with linseed oil or some oil primer,careful not to get oil or paint on the glass itself,,putty seals nice clean glass to the bead,the sash lock onto the putty bead,seals it to the glass nicely apply putty enough to fill the rabbet to a bit of overflow press in the putty with a 3/4 in curved embee knife,( cannot find this particular knife anywhere,so I use a 1 In. bent knife ..it works almost as well) a 45 degree nice flat bead should be your result,,trim off excess with the knife edges scraping down catching excess with your opposite hand,, if you have the window in the shop let it sit leaning back a bit for 2 weeks,while it sets,and forms a bit of skin on the putty surface,,,use blue glass cleaner to wipe off any putty oil,get as close to the putty as you can without hitting the putty lines,tho if you do,coat the knife with lemon oil furniture polish and flatten the ding,,this stuff is also good for re oiling a dried out batch of old putty you were prepared to toss. A long plastering trowel using the edge as a guide, ,ought to have a flat but dull edge, ,, paint the putty and sash after a couple weeks,,
Great tips Mr H. Thanks for sharing
Shellac is recommended when using linseed oil putty, not varnish. It's would be best to treat the wood with linseed oil before the shellac and let dry 24 hours. It's best not to paint carefully onto the glass. When the paint is dry, use a straight edge to scrap off paint and leave about 1/16" paint on the glass with a perfectly straight paint to glass line. 1/16" (min) paint on glass is important.
Isn’t there glazing points to install prior to glazing?
Great video... I love Sarco Putty, but my mentor used Wonder Putty.
Old wooden casement window sash failed, bottom rail came off. So I’m building new sash, then need to glaze it.
Great demo. What's the shelf life on putty? I have some windows I need to do and have some old putty that's been in garage about 2 years leftover from last time. It's still soft & malleable.
Sounds like it is ok. I used to put paint thinner and a few drops of raw linseed oil into stiff putty and put it in a paint shaker to kneed it back into life. I can't say that works with current wood puttys on the market.
My father put old putty in a plastic bag and put it in a hot pan of water on the stove to soften it up.
Do I use linseed oil for the window luster what glazing do I use that goes together first time window fixer help
hi Mr. Hardware, have you ever tried organic linseed products? They work fantastic and last much much longer than solvent based "linseed"
I imagine the difference isn't so much whether your linseed oil is organic (unless it's to be eaten) but whether it is boiled or not. Isn't the whole point of boiling or adding a solvent to speed up the cure time?
Great job! Thank u!
Thank you!
The window is 120 years old and I had to take out the pane in order to remove old caulk, which prevented it from sitting properly in its frame. But now it's back in, with new caulk and putty, waiting to cure for painting.
nice job, Blair
Thanks, keep 'em coming!
What about painting the sash of pane?
Thank so much
Where do you get linseed oil putty in the US?
We sell wonder putty, could be a local manufacturer. Call the store 586-776-9532 and hopefully we can sell and ship it to you.
My windows are painted. Can I apply the glazing compound atop the paint as long as the surface is clean and dry?
And not too shiny. You may prime or lightly sand down a gloss surface.
Very informative, thanks à lot.
I just bought a 1960s ranch with original wood windows. I am disabled and cannot afford to replace all the windows, so I've decided to re-glaze them... problem is I cannot figure out how to get the windows out (necessary due to window location). The windows are wood, the slide on an aluminum track. When I removed the window trim the aluminum liner prevents me from removing the window. 😮 please help (lol) 😊
I’m not positive because I’ve never done one myself, but I believe if you take the trim and the stop out, the metal slides are held in with only a couple of small nails at the top in the bottom and after you pull out those nails and the trim you can slide one side of the window out. This is just a wild guess a picture would help.
@@MrHardware1
مرحبا ياصديقي انا من.بلد.اسيوي ولدي محل لبيع زجاج النوافذ لكن اعاني من ردائت المعجون المصنع محليا هل لك ان تخبرنيعن طريقة صنع المعجون فيبلدك واكون ممتن لك في
@@MrHardware1
ارجوك كيف اصنع هذا المعجون
I hate using putty. Always looks messy. Can I use caulk instead?
Caulk is quicker, easier, but will never look as nice as w putty. Kneed it longer, it gets real nice after a minute, or longer w older putty.
Is the glass in a setting bed of glazing?
I have bedded glass, however it takes very soft putty and a more experienced glazer.
I've been harvesting old windows to replace my existing ones and having removed a lot of panes now, I can say, back bedding does not do anything for the glaze seal AND makes it much harder to get the old window out.
@@rivernet62 The purpose of back-bedding is to make sure the glass won't be able to rattle at all. If the glass has any opportunity to move in/out, the putty will soon fail. This is also the reason to use glazier's points.
At the same time, the back-bedding makes certain that the glass will be airtight! All putty begins to fail at some point, and if you don't have the back of the glass airtight, it will leak air wherever the exterior putty begins to fail. For back-bedding ONLY, a legitimate substitute for putty is acrylic caulking (siliconized acrylic is fine also), or better yet, a removable caulking such as Seal and Peel. Don't use pure silicone! It's too tough. You need a caulking that can be trimmed out with a sharp chisel when replacing the glass later. Seal and Peel removable caulking will adhere for many years, yet be the easiest to remove later to do a new back-bedding. I actually prefer caulking for back-bedding for 1 more reason: all single pane glass will get condensation, which runs to the bottom, hitting the back-bedding (unless you painted the interior after re-glazing and made sure to paint onto the glass). When the water contacts older, dried out back-bedding putty, it soaks in, beginning the failures from the INSIDE out. Water soaked into old dried putty will freeze at night.
* If you use caulking for back-bedding, you don't have to remove all of it when replacing glass, only the areas where the caulking came off. Simply re-caulk those areas and lay the new glass down. The old caulk will be pliable and dead flat, so you're laying the glass on a "rubber gasket".
This may sound silly, but do you think other oils will work, eg. WD 40?
No those are lubricating oil’s. We’re looking for some thing with the resin that will dry do a semi hard finish.
Hey, thanks for this video! I remembered that I need linseed oil, but I wasn't prepared for the choice between BOILED, and RAW linseed. I see you're using boiled - would raw work as well? Would priming the frame work as well? Thanks!!
Raw does not have the 'dryers' in it so it can stay tacky a long time. Under glazing raw might be fine but get boiled to be safe.
Great info.
What type of putty do I purchase?
Window glazing
I use Dap 33 glazing compound for my window let it said going on 3 weeks still soft why is it not getting hard so I can pain it
Yes, that can happen sometimes with some putties.
It usually takes about a month to harden, even though it should be a few weeks.
Return it to the store if it doesn't harden after a one month.
Don't paint it if it's soft even a bit, it must be hard as a wood.
Otherwise it will crack in a few days and you will have to remove everything and clean all well before starting again.
You can paint it once it skins over in about a day or two. It does not need to be completely dry and hard.
I noticed similar criticism of Dap 33 in thecraftsmanblog (Which Glazing Putty is Right for You?)
He writes pros and cons of various glazing putty
you should set the glass in a bed of putty first
I agree, but it’s some thing I do it yourself or won’t be able to pull off very easily unless they’re trained and until the third or fourth sash.
No please don't back bed, see my other comment
@@rivernet62What is the problem with back bedding?
@@azul8811 it makes removing the old pane difficult plus it's unnecessary think about the seal you get without back bed its as good
still prefer making my own linseed putty never liked the ready mixed gear always full of crust and sets in the tub
Old school kind of guy, my kind of people.
Michigan 👍🆗🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺😁Downriver 👍👍👍👍👍
The blind leading the blind
You have many followers?
Your meant to read the comments too with these sort of video's nobody knows it all.
I’m thinking the same thing.
Linseed takes 3 days to dry without covering it with putty. The only thing holding the glaze to the wood is the paint ??
AWFUL
Very good!