Hey boss, licensed plumber here. On your water heater, the valve you’re opening is the “temperature and pressure relief valve,” usually just called the T&P. Opening it actually does nothing to help the sediment buildup in the bottom of the heater. What will help is attaching a water hose to the port at the lower part of the heater and opening it while the water valve coming to the heater is still on. This ensures the pressure of the water coming into the tank pushes the water out of the bottom of the heater first, thus pushing the sediment out as well. Do this until you see the water running completely clear, usually 15 minutes depending on water quality and age, close the valve and you’re done! If you do this once a year, I’m telling you it is the NUMBER ONE thing you can do to maintain your heater and make sure you get every penny you can out of it. Hope this helps, keep up the great videos!
@Daniel Varela all depends on circumstance, brother. The average lifespan of a heater where I’m at is 5-8 years. Maintained the way they should be, you can easily double that lifespan. The average general life span of a heater is 10-15 years.
quick tip about the foam which I found out recently... if you wait about 5-10 minutes for the skin to harden, you can actually push it flat with your fingers or another tool without it sticking to you and make it flat with the surface... saves you having to cut it later!
Hvac tech here. You put the filter in backwards. Arrow goes toward your furnace. You have a down-flow system. That's why the filer was puffed out when you removed the old one
As an allergy sufferer I went with that filter and even higher MERV ratings to filter out allergens. A cousin, who owns a HVAC company, advised to just use the cheap filters that the manufacturers initially installed. The reason is the higher MERV rating adds a load onto the system sort of like a clogged filter. Over years this can severely affect the longevity of your system. This info was also verified on multiple HVAC YT channels.
1> the valve on the water heater you pulled is a safety valve, it does not drain sediment, use the bottom spigot 2> the loc-tie foam you used cost more than than the tiny heat you were losing there, do this when painting or remodeling 3>leaf blowers work great cleaning gutters 4> there is a power disconnect behind the AC unit, turn it off there or at the breaker, cover the whole thing 5>the double sided tape in the window insulation kits will pull the paint off when you remove it especially on drywall
I have 200' of gutters just on the front side of the house. I used to grab a ladder and gloves to clean them when I first bought the house. An hour or so later I would finally be done. One year I grabbed a leafblower and I was done with the same gutters in 10 minutes. And they were cleaner than using my hands.
Being a youtuber is an amazing thing. You can write off 100% of your life. Just make a video about whatever you want to write off. Another way is to put a dashcam on your car and auto upload it to youtube private, edit/crop for safety, and you can literally write off your car, gas, insurance, etc. If you claim your house is your office, you can write off almost everything in it, too.
@@jacksonhicks1869 Its a lot more complicated than that. Matt Farah had a chartered accountant as a guest on The Smoking Tire podcast a month or two ago. The main topic was vehicle financing but tax writeoffs were also explained. I won't attempt to explain them as unless an accountant has told you its allowed in your specific situation you should never assume it is. Yes there are things a company can do to reduce taxes, in way that are honestly sickening considering people get no such benefits, but 99.9% of people exaggerate this wildly and never include the context. And the context is what decides whether you can do it or you'll be targeted for tax evasion.
@@LamboGallardo560 tax laws are different for everyone and are very situational, personal taxes and business tax are again 2 very different things and while it can be beneficial to have a business it also brings added compilations come tax time. A local tax agent or account should be able to guild you this and there is a threshold to how much you need to make in order for business to be the better option and that will depend on where you are in the world
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Honestly Yall Sleepy Sheep's 😴 🥱 😪 WAKE TF UP! ⏰️ ⏰️ 😂😂😂😂 ITS ALL BS CORRUPTION IF EVERYONE WLD STOP GIVING THEM FAKE FED PERMISSION BY SIGNING UP...THEY'VE BEEN ROBBING US BLIND! WE NEED TO WAKE UP AND STAND UP AGAINST THEIR LIES & CORRUPTION!!!🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤😂😂
It's nice that your giving out some good advice to people with your platform. The problem with most DIY youtubes is they give wrong information. There is a reason they have professionals. I recommend doing research and either watching a professional or calling one before doing the tips recommended in this video. Furnace filter was put in backwards, he has a down flow furnace air should point towards the furnace. Blow down of the water heater was incorrect. Also the insulating of the door and windows should be done at install. I prefer lower amount of spray foam and a backer rod and window and door caulk at the end that will expand and contract with the opening. Good info on hear just missed the mark on being completely correct
When I replaced the paneling with drywall in my den, I was SHOCKED, not insulation around the doors, this one change made my den warmer before I even installed the drywall. Why do builders not insulate this space? CRAZY!!!!
A general rule atleast here in Sweden were we have a lot of cold weather is to never spray foam around windows nor doors since the structure is moving the foam will crack and the wind will go straight thru the cracks. Im not sure how the spray foam you use reacts but thats a general rule in Sweden to never use any type of spray. Instead use special insulation strips made for windows and doors. I also strongly recommend everyone to check the smoke detectors with actual fire, like a match or a lighter so you for sure knows that it reacts to fire, because by pressing the button you only test the battery capacity. And NEVER install a smoke detector on the wall. Why? Smoke rises, it should be installed in the highest section of the roof.
also, if you're using foam, make sure to use the one that doesn't increase its volume too much after spraying. It could bend frames of your windows/door
What he installed was a carbon monoxide alarm, which doesn’t have to be put on the ceiling. Carbon monoxide is only slightly lighter than air and mixes evenly throughout the room.
If you live in an apartment or a condo with a giant sliding glass door it's a huge heat suck during the winter months. You can buy clear bubble wrap and a spray bottle and easily help keep some of the heat inside. Cut the bubble wrap into long strips and wet down the window glass [after giving it a good cleaning] and place the bubble wrap [bubbles side out] on the glass. As it dries it acts as an adhesive and definitely keeps alot of cold air from seeping in.
Thanks for the great tips! It's my understanding that carbon monoxide is denser than air. Therefore, it's best to use the CO detectors that plug in to an outlet versus those that you mount high on the wall or on the ceiling.
Lots of good tips. I made a to-do list. One thing to note. When looking at thermal imaging right after sealing with expanding foam. You'll measure heat from the expanding foam exothermic reaction. If you measure a while after, you'll get a good reading.
I have that same water heater just put in my house. I was approved for a program by the city to weatherize my house for free. They gave me a new ac unit with the heat pump, a new thermostat, insulation in the walls and attic, caulked around my windows and doors, put weather stripping around the front, back, and drop doors. Yesterday they finished up putting solar screens on my side and back windows. They put an exhaust in my bathroom, smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors, and leds in my house to. I got it all for free and I'm blessed and happy for it because I really needed it.
@@MeSSwithME3 it's called weatherization program and it's for low income people especially people on ssi or disability. I live in Fort Worth, TX and I didn't know about these programs until the people who helped me with my electric bills told me about it. I didn't know that I was going to get all the stuff I got until the city inspector came out and looked at my house. They also got a program where they come out and paint your house. I'm trying to get all the help I can get because I spent all the money that was left to me for helping other people who were just ungrateful and plus I've been in and out of the hospital for my foot for years. So this is really a blessing for me.
I'm really glad for you for getting the help needed. Here in RI we have a similar program, because I work at a behavioral healthcare center and we have some low-income families it's my job to tell them of all existing programs. It is wonderful to see them smile when they come and tell me their home is safer now. 😊 ❤ DJ Pat I hope you are doing great, too.
For AC Unit, I would recommend just screwing 2 2x4 pieces such that the fan exhaust can still theoratically blow air out, but the snow won't go in. So, in your first summer day, even if you forgot to remove it, it won't melt your plastic, and potentially cause major AC damage. 2 cents.
I agree with both of your most of your winterization's. Personally I put a cover on my air conditioner but I take the fuse out of the box that way somebody cannot turn it on (you just have to remember when it's time to turn it back on to put the fuse back in). I wish you could come and clean my gutters. I'm to old to climb ladders and I haven't found anybody willing to clean up this year. PS don't forget to move your car monoxide to the base of your wall about a foot up from the floor. It does you no good next to the ceiling. You would be dead before the alarm goes off.
Love the video very helpful. One thing I wanted to note is that for Monoxide detection devices you need to put them low (lower outlet level low) vs Smoke detectors that need to be installed up high. DO NOT buy a duel smoke/ Monoxide detector device. Smoke rises while monoxide is heavier than oxygen and stays low to the ground. Small key tip to keep your family safe.
I'm not sure where you are getting that information, however it is false. Carbon Monoxide is less dense than standard air in general, however it diffuses evenly throughout the room it is contained. I cannot think of any reason why there would be a benefit to installing carbon monoxide detectors lower.
Thank you so much for this video. I need to do this stuff to my home. As a Woman, I'm almost always cold lol. I do have a sun room that has a massive picture window where apparently ALL of the gas has gone out of the window and now that it's winter time, it gets extremely cold in the house because the cold is coming through the window. My home warranty won't cover replacing that window, so I have to figure something else out. I'm most likely going to use the window plastic thing. I have to do something as I'm losing heat all the time because there are so many things that need to be replaced. My bedroom is freezing half the time because in the master bathroom, the shower in there, you can see right through the drain to the ground so the cold air comes up from there. The summer time is so much different to where we are roasting. Hopefully I'll be able to get something fixed eventually. Your Wife is very blessed to have you as a Husband and one that knows how to fix things up and cares to do it. :) As a single Woman, I have to figure out how to fix everything on my own. And being on a fixed and low income doesn't help when everything is extremely expensive. :(
Keep watching videos like these. Trust me, I'm a single mom of three grown boys. I had to learn and let me tell you jow empowering it was. Each item I checked of was exhilarating!! You got this!!!
Girl I feel you on everything you just said I am a single woman and live on a fixed income also and anything that gets fixed I have to do it myself figure it out or what not and there's never enough money to go around and and in the winter time I freeze to death and in the summer I burn up. My HVAC went out about 10 years ago and I don't have the money to replace it. I just went looking at my bedroom p I seen a lot of condensation on the window so now I've got to recaulk it and then put the plastic up over them for the winter
If you're installing new systems, get a heat pump/mini split system instead of just an AC. It does the same thing as an AC, but also the opposite as it can reverse the flow. These cools in the summer and heats in the winter. They work well quite low below freezing (0°C/32°F) Toshiba has heat pumps/mini split systems that work down to -30°C/-22°F. It doesn't create heat or cold, it just moves it around, so it's much more efficient than other heater systems. If there are a few days a year it's not efficient, it's still working well for you most of the year, and for those super cold days you can use movable space heaters or panel ovens below your windows.
Helpful hint, buy the cheap filters. Those ones you are using are bad. Unit needs to work 2x as hard to push air. Drops efficiency of your furnace. The cheap filters for $5-$10 are perfect, come in 4 packs. Change every month
If you can have a slot installed for a 4” filter installed. Then you can have good merv15 filtering and still be nice to your future motor. You also only have to replace them every 6-12 months.
The new 1 inch high filtration filters are sometimes a low filtration filter with static technology included to catch the smaller particles without causing back pressure problems with the furnace.
Noticed you cleaned your gutters in one of your videos. Buy and install a mesh gutter cover to prevent leaves and debris getting in. Works for me. Very cheap. Love the videos.
Great video, very informative. But just an FYI, carbon monoxide detectors should always be as low as possible to the floor. Gas has a higher density than air thus sits on floor level longer. I advise everyone I speak to to install carbon monoxide detectors right above your baseboards. Put one in the kitchen away from the stove, one in the furnace room and outside or inside the bedrooms where the vents are...
"Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up." Reference: www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector
@@FrancisKoczur I am glad you smarter than alot of alarm installers who make the same false assumptions Jose makes. Carbon detectors per code in most states should be in the hall outside the sleeping areas as you correctly state. The reasoning is when the fumes escape detectors placed low by the baseboard or by the stove or furnace is a better chance to be tripped and of course about 5 feet off the ground. If I had a nickle every time a heard someone falsely repeat urban legends like Jose I could retire 5 years ago. The heavy carbon gas legend would be funny in relation to how silly it is if people couldn't die from such bad science. One of the places I worked at was ATT digital life which was doomed to failure because of ignorant people in management who spread this drivel into their techs who spread it to their unsuspecting customers.
@@abcall-timesboxingchanneln7076 All it takes is one google search to see who is correct. I'm glad the dispute is on this thread because our security system salesman told us it should be at the bottom.
Might want to check light switches and light sockets. It's crazy how much cold they let in, esp ones on external walls. Painters tape it up, trim anything excess to hide behind plate. You can use those foam stickeys on the back of the plates if you like but the point is to stop the drafts 👍
Awesome! This video helped me to identify 5 winterization matters that I never addressed in my home since I purchased it 4 years ago. Thanks!! Appreciate ya!
Hey I know this is a few years older but Carbon monoxide detectors should be about a ft off the ground. Because gas creeps up slowly and by the time it reaches the top of the door frame there is a huge build up of gas in your home. Also keeping your bedroom doors shut at night helps keep you safer as well as warmer in the winter months as it helps trap your body temp in your room as you sleep.
I think we’d all love to see you do a tour around the house going over all the projects you’ve done and sort of give us an update.Things you would’ve done differently etc. Love the vids!
That air filter totally looks like it was in backwards... you see how it was bellowed out away from the wire? That wire is there to support the filter media. The filter was so dirty the fan was really sucking that media and there was no wire support to hold it in place. Always check the airflow and make sure you install it the correct way! Also a great idea to put in a larger 4 or 5 inch media filter, they last much longer and flow much more air which is better for heating and cooling!
For the water spigot for outdoor hose, I usually just turn the valve off and let the water drain to clear any water that can be lingering to keep from freezing.
Dude you should attach a garden hose to the flush valve to the bottom of the water heater to flush it out. Leave the water on and open the valve with a screwdriver. You may get sediment out but those bradford white water heaters are beasts. They're all I install in my customer's homes. They don't get much sediment buildup because of the dip tube design anyway.
Hey just a note, carbon monoxide is denser than air so. It fills from the floor up, it's best to put carbon monoxide alarms on the floor, by the time it gets to the top of the door you will already be unconcious
Let me tell you. The window insulation works wonders. When I first bought my house here in Ohio it had no heater. I used these on all the windows including the large picture windows and boy did they help a lot!
Some great tips here. On the topic of attic insulation, insulation does not stop air from leaking out from the conditioned living area into the attic. So, it is important to seal the attic from the space below. Openings around ceiling fans, around lights and plumbing vent pipes perpetrating the area are all villains that rob you of conditioned air in both summer and winter.
Im in MN and we have seperate valves to turn the water off for the spicket. Install once and just turn it off inside and drain the outside one. No busted pipes. Easy peasy.
Hey quick tip for when you covered the A/C. In the winter time pull the breaker that is in the box right behind the A/C unit hanging on the house and put it in backwards. This will not allow the unit to turn on and also ensured you don’t loose the breaker key. This way you can fully cover the unit and not worry about it turning on.
@@PongoXBongo it’s not a typical circuit breaker like you are probably thinking. It’s almost like a plastic key that completes the circuit and can be removed.
Check the airflow direction on your furnace, looks like it could be in backwards. Give away is the filter is blown out away from the metal grate which is there to prevent that exact situation from happening.
One of the previous furnace techs that serviced my home drew little air flow direction arrows on the ductwork next to the filter slot. Simple yet clever, and has save my dumb ass on numerous ocassions, lol.
that is actually really useful info. might want to consider adding in severe cold weather event preps to have on hand so it is a complete list but this is the first detailed... full house cold weather checklist i have found online that shows you each item not just lists them. really nicely done
most hvac techs i talk to say the only reason to cover the top of ac units is to stop ice buildup from your house to fall down and damage it. they are outdoor units.
Thank you for sharing this awesome and helpful video. This is a suggestion for anyone with a furnace. I have one and when I put the new filter I write ✍️ the date on it so I know when I changed it. I hope it helps. Have a good day every one.
In old drafty houses it helps to install outlet/light switch foam insulation seals behind the plastic plate covers. It’s crazy how much cold air blows in from the outlets/switches that are in exterior walls.
Our energy/gas bill is $1,067.63 this month. 😧. $600 is delivery fees from the power company but Reddit has opened my eyes that we are using 4x the average amount for a small family & 1700 sq ft home. Time to fix this issue
You opened the safety relief valve on your hot water tank. To drain sediment from hot water tank you need to drain from valve at bottom of hot water tank.Empty all water from tank.
Ventilation is very good for a house and you. Those little cracks and such take care of that ventilation. If you pack up your house almost air tight be sure you have enough ventilation that you control by mechanical means. Then you can ventilate enough to be healthy and good but not over ventilate. Ventilation is good as long as you control it.
Should think about hanging another filter on the grate of your furnace using some small “S” hooks so you can pre-filter the air before it gets introduced into your HVAC system. This will help keep the main filter cleaner for longer. I’d still recommend you change the filter once per month though. And get someone to come clean out the vents and supply lines once every year or two.
BRILLIANT !! I have to include sun tan lotion in my kids Easter basket because the heat is going to be equal to mid to late May. So winterize your home !!
Lol, don’t drain your hot water tank out of the T & P valve, the sediment you’re trying to remove is at the bottom of the tank, so use the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, plus opening/closing your t & p valve often causes it to leak after a few times.
I did plumbing for a bit and learned that you're not supposed to drain the water heater from the relief valve. The more it's used, more likely it'll leak. Do not, i repeat, do not use it. There is a drain valve underneath. Connect a water hose and drain the water heater. Take the bottom cover and burner out while draining. Then vacuum inside. Residue builds up and weakens the water heater.
I typically use a trowel and with an extension added my garden hose to clean out the gutters. Central Wisconsin rite next to a lake more often than I care the leaves in my gutters are soaked so if u have same situation just use a trowel or hand spade shovel to help u scoop stuff out. Otherwise it's gonna be a nasty mess having leaves and everything else all over your nice lawn. Currently have a love hate relationship with my 100 foot black walnut tree...
Just found mold in our new house and pretty sure it's exactly because of that gutter issue. I don't think the pervious owners ever cleaned them out. It was nasty.
Год назад+1
the heat on the insulation plastic window doesn't stretch the plastic. it does the exact opposite, it shrinks it also, cold doesn't get in. cold is not a thing. heat goes out
Ceiling fan direction only affects the "wind chill" factor. You don't want to feel the breeze in the winter, you do want to feel the breeze in the summer. Re: "warm air at the ceiling"...after a few minutes, the air is all blended to the same temperature. So, there no longer is warmer air at the ceiling.
Wonderful video. I will use these helpful tips so thank you! I am concerned about the carbon monoxide monitor placement because I have read recently that a CO monitor should be installed at approximately 5 feet. A Kidde instruction booklet states to use a guide of 1.5 meters from the floor, but years ago I was advised by an HVAC specialist to keep a CO monitor closer to the floor because CO is heavier than air. Apparently there is some conflicting information out there. Still not sure on this topic...Will continue to Research!
One tip I work for a gas company and the carbon monoxide is heavy and stays low opposite of hot air so the lower you place them the better it works and you placed it ABOVE the door frame
First, you're flushing from the pressure relief valve which is not going to do anything other than increasing the risk that the valve develops a leak which they are notorious for doing. Flushing the water heater from the drain valve at the bottom doesn't generally do much due to channeling effect. Think of a riverbed being carved out in the sediment. You might get a little bit of sediment out but not much to matter. Plus, the drain valve is not even at the bottom of the tank where the bulk of the sediment will be.
Ceiling Fans cool people not spaces, reversing it during the winter will stop the wind chill factor but is a waste as it's basically now a resistance heater. Just turn it off.
I cover the whole thing and flip the break (right next to it) so it can't be turned on accidentally. I paid $50 - $60 for a good cover and it has lasted 11 years.
Can you please tell me what that darn door seal is called and/or purchased. I can find the foamy thing or the small rubbery things that tape. I can never find those strong sturdy ones you have in this video!
@3:25, i thout adding a hose to the bottom port and opening it will drain all the water and sediment like Logan said. the valve your opening is pressure relief valve. Thanks!
You put your furnace filter in backwards. The air flows into the furnace. That's why your air filter was bulged out the wrong direction. The arrows always point towards the furnace.
I never know which direction to install the filter. Do face the arrow away from the furnace toward ductwork or the opposite. It would be so handy if the furnace installer would just write a little arrow on the ductwork where these filters go. Thanks also for the air conditioner winterization. Some neighbors tie plastic all around the unit.
You don't want to change the temperature in your home while your away. It works twice as hard to bring the temp to where you want it causing it to run longer. Just set it and leav3 it alone
"Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up." Reference: www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector
Right on! My “Boiler” is my Aqua Therm wood burner BEAST in the Garage. It burns wood,with a fan that kicks off when the house hits the set temperature. My home is 1908 with radiators. Brilliant idea to have this back up heat source.
I would watch RUclips videos on sealing your attic, I am using expansion foam and fire proof covers over my recessed lights. They are saying a 15% savings on heating bills. Good luck.
If you want to save money travel off peak constantly visiting and staying with friends and relatives you'll end up making even more in the process and they'll complement you on how sociable you are.
Hey boss, licensed plumber here. On your water heater, the valve you’re opening is the “temperature and pressure relief valve,” usually just called the T&P. Opening it actually does nothing to help the sediment buildup in the bottom of the heater. What will help is attaching a water hose to the port at the lower part of the heater and opening it while the water valve coming to the heater is still on. This ensures the pressure of the water coming into the tank pushes the water out of the bottom of the heater first, thus pushing the sediment out as well. Do this until you see the water running completely clear, usually 15 minutes depending on water quality and age, close the valve and you’re done! If you do this once a year, I’m telling you it is the NUMBER ONE thing you can do to maintain your heater and make sure you get every penny you can out of it.
Hope this helps, keep up the great videos!
@Daniel Varela all depends on circumstance, brother. The average lifespan of a heater where I’m at is 5-8 years. Maintained the way they should be, you can easily double that lifespan. The average general life span of a heater is 10-15 years.
If he wants to get rid of sediment he should open the brass valve at the bottom of the tank
Thank you Logan Frank so many people are doing exactly that. Great explanation I run though that process with my customers
@@crispinharris5648 is there an echo in here?
@@bmac8130 lol
quick tip about the foam which I found out recently... if you wait about 5-10 minutes for the skin to harden, you can actually push it flat with your fingers or another tool without it sticking to you and make it flat with the surface... saves you having to cut it later!
👍🏼
Hvac tech here. You put the filter in backwards. Arrow goes toward your furnace. You have a down-flow system. That's why the filer was puffed out when you removed the old one
As an allergy sufferer I went with that filter and even higher MERV ratings to filter out allergens. A cousin, who owns a HVAC company, advised to just use the cheap filters that the manufacturers initially installed. The reason is the higher MERV rating adds a load onto the system sort of like a clogged filter. Over years this can severely affect the longevity of your system. This info was also verified on multiple HVAC YT channels.
My HVAC guy gave me the same advice.
Makes sense
Yes and get air purifiers instead
1> the valve on the water heater you pulled is a safety valve, it does not drain sediment, use the bottom spigot
2> the loc-tie foam you used cost more than than the tiny heat you were losing there, do this when painting or remodeling
3>leaf blowers work great cleaning gutters
4> there is a power disconnect behind the AC unit, turn it off there or at the breaker, cover the whole thing
5>the double sided tape in the window insulation kits will pull the paint off when you remove it especially on drywall
I have 200' of gutters just on the front side of the house. I used to grab a ladder and gloves to clean them when I first bought the house. An hour or so later I would finally be done.
One year I grabbed a leafblower and I was done with the same gutters in 10 minutes. And they were cleaner than using my hands.
@@sophiegovaere4160it actually doesn’t,you are spreading misinformation
this man is literally writing off all of his home renovations lmao love it
Being a youtuber is an amazing thing. You can write off 100% of your life. Just make a video about whatever you want to write off. Another way is to put a dashcam on your car and auto upload it to youtube private, edit/crop for safety, and you can literally write off your car, gas, insurance, etc. If you claim your house is your office, you can write off almost everything in it, too.
@@aa1bb2cc3dd4 explain more
@@jacksonhicks1869 Its a lot more complicated than that. Matt Farah had a chartered accountant as a guest on The Smoking Tire podcast a month or two ago. The main topic was vehicle financing but tax writeoffs were also explained. I won't attempt to explain them as unless an accountant has told you its allowed in your specific situation you should never assume it is. Yes there are things a company can do to reduce taxes, in way that are honestly sickening considering people get no such benefits, but 99.9% of people exaggerate this wildly and never include the context. And the context is what decides whether you can do it or you'll be targeted for tax evasion.
@@LamboGallardo560 tax laws are different for everyone and are very situational, personal taxes and business tax are again 2 very different things and while it can be beneficial to have a business it also brings added compilations come tax time. A local tax agent or account should be able to guild you this and there is a threshold to how much you need to make in order for business to be the better option and that will depend on where you are in the world
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Honestly Yall Sleepy Sheep's 😴 🥱 😪 WAKE TF UP! ⏰️ ⏰️ 😂😂😂😂 ITS ALL BS CORRUPTION IF EVERYONE WLD STOP GIVING THEM FAKE FED PERMISSION BY SIGNING UP...THEY'VE BEEN ROBBING US BLIND! WE NEED TO WAKE UP AND STAND UP AGAINST THEIR LIES & CORRUPTION!!!🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤😂😂
It's nice that your giving out some good advice to people with your platform. The problem with most DIY youtubes is they give wrong information. There is a reason they have professionals. I recommend doing research and either watching a professional or calling one before doing the tips recommended in this video. Furnace filter was put in backwards, he has a down flow furnace air should point towards the furnace. Blow down of the water heater was incorrect. Also the insulating of the door and windows should be done at install. I prefer lower amount of spray foam and a backer rod and window and door caulk at the end that will expand and contract with the opening. Good info on hear just missed the mark on being completely correct
I'm such a Mom. The whole time I'm watching this video I'm thinking, he takes such good care of his family.
When I replaced the paneling with drywall in my den, I was SHOCKED, not insulation around the doors, this one change made my den warmer before I even installed the drywall. Why do builders not insulate this space? CRAZY!!!!
A general rule atleast here in Sweden were we have a lot of cold weather is to never spray foam around windows nor doors since the structure is moving the foam will crack and the wind will go straight thru the cracks. Im not sure how the spray foam you use reacts but thats a general rule in Sweden to never use any type of spray. Instead use special insulation strips made for windows and doors.
I also strongly recommend everyone to check the smoke detectors with actual fire, like a match or a lighter so you for sure knows that it reacts to fire, because by pressing the button you only test the battery capacity. And NEVER install a smoke detector on the wall. Why? Smoke rises, it should be installed in the highest section of the roof.
also, if you're using foam, make sure to use the one that doesn't increase its volume too much after spraying. It could bend frames of your windows/door
@@mikolajrazny yes and another reason to use the fiberglass strips to insulate windows and doors, no risk for cracking and deformation
What he installed was a carbon monoxide alarm, which doesn’t have to be put on the ceiling. Carbon monoxide is only slightly lighter than air and mixes evenly throughout the room.
I thought smoke detectors detected smoke not fire.........
Backer rod won't crack, put it in first, then low expansion window and door spray foam
If you live in an apartment or a condo with a giant sliding glass door it's a huge heat suck during the winter months. You can buy clear bubble wrap and a spray bottle and easily help keep some of the heat inside. Cut the bubble wrap into long strips and wet down the window glass [after giving it a good cleaning] and place the bubble wrap [bubbles side out] on the glass. As it dries it acts as an adhesive and definitely keeps alot of cold air from seeping in.
Then do you seal it with plastic?
Thanks for the great tips! It's my understanding that carbon monoxide is denser than air. Therefore, it's best to use the CO detectors that plug in to an outlet versus those that you mount high on the wall or on the ceiling.
Lots of good tips. I made a to-do list.
One thing to note. When looking at thermal imaging right after sealing with expanding foam. You'll measure heat from the expanding foam exothermic reaction.
If you measure a while after, you'll get a good reading.
I have that same water heater just put in my house. I was approved for a program by the city to weatherize my house for free. They gave me a new ac unit with the heat pump, a new thermostat, insulation in the walls and attic, caulked around my windows and doors, put weather stripping around the front, back, and drop doors. Yesterday they finished up putting solar screens on my side and back windows. They put an exhaust in my bathroom, smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors, and leds in my house to. I got it all for free and I'm blessed and happy for it because I really needed it.
what the program called and where is that located? sounds amazing!
@@MeSSwithME3 it's called weatherization program and it's for low income people especially people on ssi or disability. I live in Fort Worth, TX and I didn't know about these programs until the people who helped me with my electric bills told me about it. I didn't know that I was going to get all the stuff I got until the city inspector came out and looked at my house. They also got a program where they come out and paint your house. I'm trying to get all the help I can get because I spent all the money that was left to me for helping other people who were just ungrateful and plus I've been in and out of the hospital for my foot for years. So this is really a blessing for me.
I'm really glad for you for getting the help needed. Here in RI we have a similar program, because I work at a behavioral healthcare center and we have some low-income families it's my job to tell them of all existing programs. It is wonderful to see them smile when they come and tell me their home is safer now. 😊 ❤
DJ Pat I hope you are doing great, too.
For AC Unit, I would recommend just screwing 2 2x4 pieces such that the fan exhaust can still theoratically blow air out, but the snow won't go in. So, in your first summer day, even if you forgot to remove it, it won't melt your plastic, and potentially cause major AC damage. 2 cents.
I agree with both of your most of your winterization's. Personally I put a cover on my air conditioner but I take the fuse out of the box that way somebody cannot turn it on (you just have to remember when it's time to turn it back on to put the fuse back in). I wish you could come and clean my gutters. I'm to old to climb ladders and I haven't found anybody willing to clean up this year. PS don't forget to move your car monoxide to the base of your wall about a foot up from the floor. It does you no good next to the ceiling. You would be dead before the alarm goes off.
If you have breakers instead of fuses (really old house?), then you can just switch the AC breaker off for the season.
Love the video very helpful. One thing I wanted to note is that for Monoxide detection devices you need to put them low (lower outlet level low) vs Smoke detectors that need to be installed up high.
DO NOT buy a duel smoke/ Monoxide detector device. Smoke rises while monoxide is heavier than oxygen and stays low to the ground.
Small key tip to keep your family safe.
I'm not sure where you are getting that information, however it is false. Carbon Monoxide is less dense than standard air in general, however it diffuses evenly throughout the room it is contained. I cannot think of any reason why there would be a benefit to installing carbon monoxide detectors lower.
Really appreciate the in depth coverage and no just the same 4 things EVERY other video covers
Thank you so much for this video. I need to do this stuff to my home. As a Woman, I'm almost always cold lol. I do have a sun room that has a massive picture window where apparently ALL of the gas has gone out of the window and now that it's winter time, it gets extremely cold in the house because the cold is coming through the window. My home warranty won't cover replacing that window, so I have to figure something else out. I'm most likely going to use the window plastic thing. I have to do something as I'm losing heat all the time because there are so many things that need to be replaced. My bedroom is freezing half the time because in the master bathroom, the shower in there, you can see right through the drain to the ground so the cold air comes up from there. The summer time is so much different to where we are roasting.
Hopefully I'll be able to get something fixed eventually. Your Wife is very blessed to have you as a Husband and one that knows how to fix things up and cares to do it. :)
As a single Woman, I have to figure out how to fix everything on my own. And being on a fixed and low income doesn't help when everything is extremely expensive. :(
Keep watching videos like these. Trust me, I'm a single mom of three grown boys. I had to learn and let me tell you jow empowering it was. Each item I checked of was exhilarating!! You got this!!!
Home depot has classes for women to cover most items. Use large bubble wrap for windows. Cut to size and spray water to hold it.
Girl I feel you on everything you just said I am a single woman and live on a fixed income also and anything that gets fixed I have to do it myself figure it out or what not and there's never enough money to go around and and in the winter time I freeze to death and in the summer I burn up. My HVAC went out about 10 years ago and I don't have the money to replace it. I just went looking at my bedroom p I seen a lot of condensation on the window so now I've got to recaulk it and then put the plastic up over them for the winter
If you're installing new systems, get a heat pump/mini split system instead of just an AC. It does the same thing as an AC, but also the opposite as it can reverse the flow. These cools in the summer and heats in the winter. They work well quite low below freezing (0°C/32°F) Toshiba has heat pumps/mini split systems that work down to -30°C/-22°F. It doesn't create heat or cold, it just moves it around, so it's much more efficient than other heater systems. If there are a few days a year it's not efficient, it's still working well for you most of the year, and for those super cold days you can use movable space heaters or panel ovens below your windows.
Great video! I’m a first time home owner so I watch as many of these as I can. Keep up the great work!
Helpful hint, buy the cheap filters. Those ones you are using are bad. Unit needs to work 2x as hard to push air. Drops efficiency of your furnace. The cheap filters for $5-$10 are perfect, come in 4 packs. Change every month
If you can have a slot installed for a 4” filter installed. Then you can have good merv15 filtering and still be nice to your future motor. You also only have to replace them every 6-12 months.
The new 1 inch high filtration filters are sometimes a low filtration filter with static technology included to catch the smaller particles without causing back pressure problems with the furnace.
Noticed you cleaned your gutters in one of your videos. Buy and install a mesh gutter cover to prevent leaves and debris getting in. Works for me. Very cheap. Love the videos.
I like to use the leaf blower for leaves in the gutter. Also you could swap the outside fuse on the ac to ensure it doesn’t come on.
Great video, very informative. But just an FYI, carbon monoxide detectors should always be as low as possible to the floor. Gas has a higher density than air thus sits on floor level longer. I advise everyone I speak to to install carbon monoxide detectors right above your baseboards. Put one in the kitchen away from the stove, one in the furnace room and outside or inside the bedrooms where the vents are...
"Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up."
Reference:
www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector
@@FrancisKoczur I am glad you smarter than alot of alarm installers who make the same false assumptions Jose makes. Carbon detectors per code in most states should be in the hall outside the sleeping areas as you correctly state. The reasoning is when the fumes escape detectors placed low by the baseboard or by the stove or furnace is a better chance to be tripped and of course about 5 feet off the ground. If I had a nickle every time a heard someone falsely repeat urban legends like Jose I could retire 5 years ago. The heavy carbon gas legend would be funny in relation to how silly it is if people couldn't die from such bad science. One of the places I worked at was ATT digital life which was doomed to failure because of ignorant people in management who spread this drivel into their techs who spread it to their unsuspecting customers.
@@abcall-timesboxingchanneln7076 All it takes is one google search to see who is correct. I'm glad the dispute is on this thread because our security system salesman told us it should be at the bottom.
Might want to check light switches and light sockets. It's crazy how much cold they let in, esp ones on external walls. Painters tape it up, trim anything excess to hide behind plate. You can use those foam stickeys on the back of the plates if you like but the point is to stop the drafts 👍
Absolutely! So much coming through mine, it has no face it’s just open
Awesome! This video helped me to identify 5 winterization matters that I never addressed in my home since I purchased it 4 years ago. Thanks!! Appreciate ya!
Hey I know this is a few years older but Carbon monoxide detectors should be about a ft off the ground. Because gas creeps up slowly and by the time it reaches the top of the door frame there is a huge build up of gas in your home.
Also keeping your bedroom doors shut at night helps keep you safer as well as warmer in the winter months as it helps trap your body temp in your room as you sleep.
I think we’d all love to see you do a tour around the house going over all the projects you’ve done and sort of give us an update.Things you would’ve done differently etc. Love the vids!
I think that video already exists...
That air filter totally looks like it was in backwards... you see how it was bellowed out away from the wire? That wire is there to support the filter media. The filter was so dirty the fan was really sucking that media and there was no wire support to hold it in place. Always check the airflow and make sure you install it the correct way! Also a great idea to put in a larger 4 or 5 inch media filter, they last much longer and flow much more air which is better for heating and cooling!
I learned so much, yet he still makes me want a handyman ;)
Dude as a new home buyer, thank you for this video!
Not sure I would remove all my door/window trim just for a little spray foam. Just don't see the cost/benefit weighing out there. Great vid though!
He's being paid to advertise the product. It's not useless but a waste of time.
That paid promotion though!
If you remove the trim carefully if can be reused. So for the cost of your time and the foam your done.
Lol yea, quite a stupid project and waste of time.
that's something you'll only need to do one time though. not every year
For the water spigot for outdoor hose, I usually just turn the valve off and let the water drain to clear any water that can be lingering to keep from freezing.
The hose bibs are a good back up in snow areas. But yes, drain the water and turn off the valves too.
Dont own a house nor do I live a a very cold area but I still had to watch the entire video haha
Dude you should attach a garden hose to the flush valve to the bottom of the water heater to flush it out. Leave the water on and open the valve with a screwdriver.
You may get sediment out but those bradford white water heaters are beasts. They're all I install in my customer's homes. They don't get much sediment buildup because of the dip tube design anyway.
Hey just a note, carbon monoxide is denser than air so. It fills from the floor up, it's best to put carbon monoxide alarms on the floor, by the time it gets to the top of the door you will already be unconcious
Let me tell you. The window insulation works wonders. When I first bought my house here in Ohio it had no heater. I used these on all the windows including the large picture windows and boy did they help a lot!
There’s an a/c disconnect switch on the wall. Maybe you could use that to make sure your ac wouldn’t kick on during the winter.
Shouldn’t you leave it on tho to have the fan circulating air once in a while?
The furnace has a fan too
@@pidgepagonis the blower motor in the furnace circulates the air in the house
Some great tips here. On the topic of attic insulation, insulation does not stop air from leaking out from the conditioned living area into the attic. So, it is important to seal the attic from the space below. Openings around ceiling fans, around lights and plumbing vent pipes perpetrating the area are all villains that rob you of conditioned air in both summer and winter.
Hello! Thank you for this tip. What would you recommend to seal these parts of the ceiling?
@TurtwigFan a good can of foam seems to be a good way.
Im in MN and we have seperate valves to turn the water off for the spicket. Install once and just turn it off inside and drain the outside one. No busted pipes. Easy peasy.
Hey quick tip for when you covered the A/C. In the winter time pull the breaker that is in the box right behind the A/C unit hanging on the house and put it in backwards. This will not allow the unit to turn on and also ensured you don’t loose the breaker key. This way you can fully cover the unit and not worry about it turning on.
Pull the breaker entirely or just switch it off?
@@PongoXBongo it’s not a typical circuit breaker like you are probably thinking. It’s almost like a plastic key that completes the circuit and can be removed.
@@joelsmith2974 Didn't know that was a thing. I just switch my breaker off in the box for the winter.
Love this! I too live in Idaho (up in the panhandle) and work for Avista Utilities, and I was so happy to see you mention a Carbon Monoxide detector!!
Great checklist, just wanted to add one.
Blow out/ clean the dryer vents. If you have a leaf blower, this can help.
Thanks for sharing.
Check the airflow direction on your furnace, looks like it could be in backwards. Give away is the filter is blown out away from the metal grate which is there to prevent that exact situation from happening.
One of the previous furnace techs that serviced my home drew little air flow direction arrows on the ductwork next to the filter slot. Simple yet clever, and has save my dumb ass on numerous ocassions, lol.
that is actually really useful info. might want to consider adding in severe cold weather event preps to have on hand so it is a complete list but this is the first detailed... full house cold weather checklist i have found online that shows you each item not just lists them. really nicely done
The AC unit cover made me laugh. Please snow, fall straight ! Be a good snow. Please.
most hvac techs i talk to say the only reason to cover the top of ac units is to stop ice buildup from your house to fall down and damage it. they are outdoor units.
Thank you for sharing this awesome and helpful video. This is a suggestion for anyone with a furnace. I have one and when I put the new filter I write ✍️ the date on it so I know when I changed it. I hope it helps. Have a good day every one.
I do that, too, and I put a reminder on my phone to check it every month.
Live in South Africa, so glad that i don't have to do this for our the winter months.
You can say that again!!🙌🏾🙌🏾
The steps for insulation would help though. What keeps the cold out will keep the heat out also, thus reducing the need for air conditioning
Perfect AC cover is a bbq cover at Home Depot and very cheap. Has Velcro strap too for tight fit.
In old drafty houses it helps to install outlet/light switch foam insulation seals behind the plastic plate covers. It’s crazy how much cold air blows in from the outlets/switches that are in exterior walls.
Our energy/gas bill is $1,067.63 this month. 😧. $600 is delivery fees from the power company but Reddit has opened my eyes that we are using 4x the average amount for a small family & 1700 sq ft home. Time to fix this issue
You opened the safety relief valve on your hot water tank.
To drain sediment from hot water tank you need to drain from valve at bottom of hot water tank.Empty all water from tank.
Yeah, I was hoping someone would mention this.
You don't need to empty the water out lol. Just flush it with the water on.
@@kylekoenig4730 Agreed, you don't need to drain the whole tank. Just run it for a bit to get rid of built up sediment.
Ventilation is very good for a house and you. Those little cracks and such take care of that ventilation. If you pack up your house almost air tight be sure you have enough ventilation that you control by mechanical means. Then you can ventilate enough to be healthy and good but not over ventilate. Ventilation is good as long as you control it.
Should think about hanging another filter on the grate of your furnace using some small “S” hooks so you can pre-filter the air before it gets introduced into your HVAC system. This will help keep the main filter cleaner for longer. I’d still recommend you change the filter once per month though. And get someone to come clean out the vents and supply lines once every year or two.
don't do this. You will increase the static pressure and mess a bunch of things up
That grate on the furnace is strictly for combustion air. It does not circulate through the house from that 🤦♂️
@@techdaddy7955 you are talking nonsense and shouldn't touch a furnace.
BRILLIANT !! I have to include sun tan lotion in my kids Easter basket because the heat is going to be equal to mid to late May. So winterize your home !!
Isn't Carbon monozide a "heavy" gas. Fills from bottom up. Those plug into the lower outlets.
Question -- you fired the carbon monoxide alarm over the door, but shouldnt it be closer to the floor?
Lol, don’t drain your hot water tank out of the T & P valve, the sediment you’re trying to remove is at the bottom of the tank, so use the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, plus opening/closing your t & p valve often causes it to leak after a few times.
Just want to add that in addition to the smoke/CO, if you have gas/propane appliances you also need one that monitors that.
Most states have laws requiring them in the kitchen and on every floor. They are required when home sells and also when rented.
I did plumbing for a bit and learned that you're not supposed to drain the water heater from the relief valve. The more it's used, more likely it'll leak. Do not, i repeat, do not use it. There is a drain valve underneath. Connect a water hose and drain the water heater. Take the bottom cover and burner out while draining. Then vacuum inside. Residue builds up and weakens the water heater.
I typically use a trowel and with an extension added my garden hose to clean out the gutters. Central Wisconsin rite next to a lake more often than I care the leaves in my gutters are soaked so if u have same situation just use a trowel or hand spade shovel to help u scoop stuff out. Otherwise it's gonna be a nasty mess having leaves and everything else all over your nice lawn. Currently have a love hate relationship with my 100 foot black walnut tree...
Just found mold in our new house and pretty sure it's exactly because of that gutter issue. I don't think the pervious owners ever cleaned them out. It was nasty.
the heat on the insulation plastic window doesn't stretch the plastic. it does the exact opposite, it shrinks it
also, cold doesn't get in. cold is not a thing. heat goes out
Ceiling fan direction only affects the "wind chill" factor. You don't want to feel the breeze in the winter, you do want to feel the breeze in the summer. Re: "warm air at the ceiling"...after a few minutes, the air is all blended to the same temperature. So, there no longer is warmer air at the ceiling.
Okay, I didn't see the point in getting a digital thermometer for our home... Now I'm seeing it's value. Very clever trick.
I love that you added in checking smoke detectors and adding Carbon monoxide detectors. Good on you!
Wonderful video. I will use these helpful tips so thank you! I am concerned about the carbon monoxide monitor placement because I have read recently that a CO monitor should be installed at approximately 5 feet. A Kidde instruction booklet states to use a guide of 1.5 meters from the floor, but years ago I was advised by an HVAC specialist to keep a CO monitor closer to the floor because CO is heavier than air. Apparently there is some conflicting information out there. Still not sure on this topic...Will continue to Research!
One tip I work for a gas company and the carbon monoxide is heavy and stays low opposite of hot air so the lower you place them the better it works and you placed it ABOVE the door frame
Can you explain this to me like I’m five
Like some said, I think some info is incorrect but I gotta give a 👍 on effort. This kinda content is what I am looking for in fall
Wow these are great tips for new home owners! Thank you:)
anyone else find a video of his in our recommended and now is just addicted to his videos
First, you're flushing from the pressure relief valve which is not going to do anything other than increasing the risk that the valve develops a leak which they are notorious for doing. Flushing the water heater from the drain valve at the bottom doesn't generally do much due to channeling effect. Think of a riverbed being carved out in the sediment. You might get a little bit of sediment out but not much to matter. Plus, the drain valve is not even at the bottom of the tank where the bulk of the sediment will be.
Ceiling Fans cool people not spaces, reversing it during the winter will stop the wind chill factor but is a waste as it's basically now a resistance heater.
Just turn it off.
Hey ever think of tacking on a small pieces of fine wire mesh inside the furnace vents to help reduce the amount of dust flow into that area?
Was thinking the same thing. Maybe by just tacking on some cheap window screen material on the inside?
I cover the whole thing and flip the break (right next to it) so it can't be turned on accidentally. I paid $50 - $60 for a good cover and it has lasted 11 years.
Window & door caulking and attic insulation are crucial to stay warm, nice video
Can you please tell me what that darn door seal is called and/or purchased. I can find the foamy thing or the small rubbery things that tape. I can never find those strong sturdy ones you have in this video!
Just cleaned and adjusted my boiler. Thanks!
I always cut power to ac unit either by breaker or service disconnect before covering. If it goes on with cover, it will likely be damaged.
Can you do a “summer”izing video as well? I live in SoCal and that would be helpful
This is awesome! Great list and walkthrough. Best I’ve seen on RUclips! Thanks man
Wow, great timeless video! I should be able to save a boat load of money in heating. This video is definitely going into my library!
Great video & home tips...Also great tips in the comment sections...Enjoyed...😊
@3:25, i thout adding a hose to the bottom port and opening it will drain all the water and sediment like Logan said. the valve your opening is pressure relief valve. Thanks!
Anyone else notice the AC filter was in backwards????????? Also great video
Hey brother, your old air filter was in backwards.
The new one is in backwards too... you filter air going into a furnace not coming out of it
If your windows are already in with trim just make sure you caulk and then touch up with paint and it will seal it
You put your furnace filter in backwards. The air flows into the furnace. That's why your air filter was bulged out the wrong direction. The arrows always point towards the furnace.
this is super interesting to know! I live in a super humid, and mostly warm state, but i plan on moving to a colder state. Good to know now!
Love your tips! Thanks they are helping!
Looks like that old filter was installed backwards. That’s why it bulged out. It didn’t have the metal mesh to push against.
I never know which direction to install the filter. Do face the arrow away from the furnace toward ductwork or the opposite. It would be so handy if the furnace installer would just write a little arrow on the ductwork where these filters go. Thanks also for the air conditioner winterization. Some neighbors tie plastic all around the unit.
You can safely cover the entire air con unit if you switch off the dedicated breaker for the season.
You're a good dude. Thanks so much for sharing this.
You don't want to change the temperature in your home while your away. It works twice as hard to bring the temp to where you want it causing it to run longer. Just set it and leav3 it alone
Shouldn't the CO detectors be towards the bottom of the walls? I think I read that CO is a heavy gas which accumulates lower first. am I wrong?
"Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up."
Reference:
www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector
Hearing a water heater being called a boiler hurts my head lol
Right on! My “Boiler” is my Aqua Therm wood burner BEAST in the Garage. It burns wood,with a fan that kicks off when the house hits the set temperature. My home is 1908 with radiators. Brilliant idea to have this back up heat source.
I would watch RUclips videos on sealing your attic, I am using expansion foam and fire proof covers over my recessed lights. They are saying a 15% savings on heating bills. Good luck.
Thank you for all the tips!!! All of your videos are great.
If you want to save money travel off peak constantly visiting and staying with friends and relatives you'll end up making even more in the process and they'll complement you on how sociable you are.