Are you sure that Hurst crossmember isn't upside down? If their special mount looks anything like the Silver Sports one, it should fit into the pocket of the crossmember where the 'H' is. idk
1) There is no documentation for that crossmember *anywhere* that I can find. There is no reference to a transmission mount part number. There are no diagrams. There is absolutely no information on it, period, and since it’s out of production… that’s a problem. 2) The slots on the Hurst crossmember perfectly match the bolt spacing of the GM mount I showed - unlike the taller Silversport mount, which has a wider stud pattern. As best as I can tell, the short one is the mount designed to work with it - and it comes nowhere close to fitting inside the notch on the crossmember. I searched for similarly configured GM mounts and found nothing that would. I can therefore only surmise that it is designed to use the generic GM mount, and that it must go with the flat pointed upward and the pocket downward. I installed it both ways during testing. Hell, I even paid close attention to the orientation of their “H” logo attempting to confirm the installation. I considered flipping it upside down, grinding out the slotted holes to the wider pattern, and grinding down the mount Silversport provided so that it would fit inside that pocket. At the end of the day, I realized that whatever I piece together will not match what Silversport had in mind. So we said to heck with it and ordered their crossmember instead.
get yourself some good gasless wire.. not cheap stuff.. gas here in aus is like work 2 weeks to pay for it.. you can buy a bottle for 450$. then $80 ish a fill.. i went gasless..it need more amps & longer wire..works great in cyclones, rain, wind. ideal for wash ington..
eye.... last comment, pun intended. [ wash... ].. eye would of while engine was out 75 times,, bought a can of baby sick yellow, took the master off, de rusted the b/head. & painted it.. just my ausie 2c.. looks like a mint rust free body.. should get my 73 chall back....one yr....owned 14 yrs, laws here in aus are pathetic..pre historic, before earth was molded.
I Love this car! These A-bodys are about the only affordable classic Mopar projects left. I'm in northeast Georgia and rusty turds are about all that is left. This engine and drive train match should be about bullet proof. What a beast of a ride this is going to be! Just a little jealous, Jordan!
25 years ago I converted our 1978 Fox (owned since 1983) from 200ci I-6/3-speed manual/6.75 rear to SEFI HO 5.0L/T-5 5-speed/8.8 rear (3.27:1). V-8 K-member (the I-6 uses a unique K-member), HD suspension/steering/brakes. Full dual exhaust. Although there was a hole in the trans tunnel from the original 3-speed shifter the T-5s shifter was a bit further rearwards. I had to use a generally similar technique (no lift - dropped the engine/trans in from the top over the installed K member) to determine where the new shifter would come thru the trans tunnel essentially enlarging the existing hole rearwards.
I had a slant six, three on the floor ‘73. I got it running in the guy’s driveway, drove it home, and gave it a rattle can resto back in 2008. It was one of the more solid A-bodies I’ve owned. I sold it to some scammy Canadian classic car salesman for not enough money. Oh well.
The TK trans is nice as far as street drivability goes and will take some abuse. That being said if you quickly release the clutch on a prepped surface with with a sticky tire with the engine spinning at a somewhat higher RPM they tend to destroy some of the internal components. I know because I have witnessed this happen twice. Just a friendly heads up.
@ right now I’m way down the slant rabbit hole. I have a old school set of Dutra duals. Half is a factory manifold cut down and welded half is after market cast iron. My point being if Dr. Dodge Doug Dutra himself figured cast is best who am I to disagree.
Modify the cross member you've got when you get welding gas of course lol yeah you are doing a lot of work it's going to come out awesome bro and be a bad ass ride for sure can't wait to hear it run
Don't forget the twisting moment that is transferred to the G/Box X/member through the torsion bars. When I clearanced my X/member for a T5 I thinned the hump section a bit like you guys have done and blended the cut out down the bottom bends (no step) but I also stitch welded the 'flanges' of the X/member to the floor. Torque boxes will also offer some real value here tying the now somewhat weakened X/member to the sills. (Sorry, rockers)
Memories…my first car back in 1987 was a 75 Dart Sport. Previous owner had 340 “cloned” it with the stripes and a six pack hood scoop. Had the mandatory air shocks and deep dish Cragar SS on the back for that 70s street machine vibe. Disappointed so many old dudes when they realized it was just a dart. My plan was to install a 383 , 4 speed and tub it but my mom sold it to a dude for basically nothing because she was tired of it sitting in her backyard while I was in the military. I’m sure it has been junked and crushed at this point but I wish I could get it back. A stroked small block and five speed would be my current choice of drivetrain. That car encouraged my love for Mopar but unfortunately, my wallet couldn’t support that habit so cheap and plentiful won out and I ended up a ford guy…
This is just what I’ve been checking into most recently. Doing a killer job! Missing my ‘67 Dart GT, which had my ‘65 273 HP Commando engine with the A833 4 speed. Not real racy, just a lot of fun to drive.
Great filming, I appreciate the detail and quality. I had a 1972 Plymouth satellite the same colour as the Dart. I miss that car so bad that I’ve been avoiding looking at Plymouth from that vintage for some time. I really need a Dodge pickup truck for project I’m doing,,,but I want a satellite roadrunner. I may have to contact you to see what kind of arrangement can be made to get a 71,72 Plymouth Satellite, it’s the front grille that turns my crank. You do a great job on those cars, you really know your mopar and everything you do is the way we did things back in the seventies.
Darn, I sold my 71 Satellite a year ago for $2500, and my 72 Satellite 3 years ago for $2000. Both olive green, both Sebrings, both with 318s, 904s, 8.25s, and 2.93s. And copious rust.
Great video. Doing the same swap on my 69 Dart but with an AlterKation member. I got the complete big block setup from the bell to the driveshaft from another 69. Couldn't have done it before you in a 100 years. Now I need a 383 cause the 440 that I have is to tight according to you and other channels.
I always thought if you are gonna cut the cross member, might as well just put a 6 speed. I think Todd Ron Restorations has a really nice weld in structural support for that purpose.
@DeadDodgeGarage oh no doubt it will be great. Yes, the 6 speed will cost a bit more, but the level of effort seems almost the same. I have a 4 speed Duster so I'm jealous of either a 5 speed or 6 speed.
For those who are curious, the silver sport mount is completely different. Its beef and is similar to the factory cross member. I had to keep cutting and test fitting until there wasn't much left. I ended up cutting a fairly large hole in the floor and added gussetts to add strength. I then covered my mess with a 14g steel plate. It works great but i hate doing irreversible things to my mopar
Just got back from Lowes, needed some stainless pan head screws and stainless washers. Love how the screws come in eight pack but the matching washers come in a seven pack....Hardware is such a scam unless you need bulk quantities.
The best shop investment I’ve ever made was that blue rack of bolts and associated hardware I put in a month or so ago. I can’t tell you how many trips to buy hardware or sessions finding and cleaning old crap for random projects it has already saved me.
Love those Edelbrock valve covers. Be thankful Edelbrock brought them back, they did for every make but Olds, even AMC. I have a 50 year old set. Beautiful headers, we have $2000+ American Racing Headers. I lived with my $200 shipped Chinese stainless headers, a tube needed moving. I am planning on putting the Terminator X Max off the Olds and on my Dakota for proper EFI and 42RE trans control and actually have command start, that start. I added 1 gauge battery cables, WTF Dodge, 6 gauge cables! I will be also eliminating the serpentine setup and use V belts on the Olds, so I will also be blasting with my cabinet. I almost went with the TKX swap, probably should of instead of a 4L80E. That should be fun as hell, stroker and manual trans in that A body.
I really should get in to stuff like this. As I’ve said, I’ve been a tech for 23 years and working on modern trash under warranty is wearing real thin these days. I know what you do is also frustrating, but when you’re done, the car is better than when it started. When I’m done, it’s not broken anymore, but it’s still factory. Then I get to write a lovely descriptive paragraph describing in detail how I diagnosed, repaired and verified the repair. Then pray VW warranty finds that sufficient. 😒I also have to get done in what VW and the customer deem to be an acceptable amount of time. P.S. We have seven new Atlases awaiting replacement engines, they have less than 6k miles on them.
I think I've mentioned before that what you do sounds like the stuff of my nightmares. Yes, there is stress and frustration in this too, but in general I find it so much better than normal car wrenching. It's actually fun a lot of the time, and rewarding almost all of the time.
I had a friend up near there. He said they would buy a “winter” car, because after just a few years the frame would break in half from the rust. Take care.
JAMIE, I sure wish I had a 2 post lift. The last one I did was undid the k frame and jacked up the car off the engine a 4x4 at a time. Took a day and a half just to get it high enough to get it out and a week to get it back in. With the wife's help.
My brother did a couple at our old shop with a cherry picker lifting the car off the drivetrain. I did the disassembly on this car using the same method, but my overhead crane for the lifting job.
Awesome !! Back on the peanut butter 🥜 Duster !! That 408 stroker & TKX 5 spd transmission Look MINT !! I like your , floor engine/ cradle / Marshall amp dollie #PeanutButterDuster
putting a 46RH overdrive trans behind my 410 , in my 66 barracuda . had to remove the entire cross member tunnel section . I have that done , re enforced . now for fitting new sheet metal to widen the rest of the tunnel . . plus installing new floor panels
Hi Jamie, love your channel - can you give specifics on installing the Saginaw p/s pump (brackets, hoses etc)? I have a Duster with the Federal pump and would like to convert.
Ah, I’ve never seen that. While not identical, it sure looks like that’s where they lifted the design from. If I remember right, they make it in a couple different bore sizes.
Measure the pinion angles and make sure the trans is high enough in the tunnel. Especially with a transplanted axle, is it set at the right angle? Vibrations will haunt you if you dont make sure the angles are right. Must be within 2° of each other, Trans pointed down to diff, diff pointed up to trans. Can add a couple of extra degrees down to the diff to account for axle wrap under load if your not using caltracs or similar.
Great pov on a body drop/5 speed swap Mr J...Makes me want a Duster/Demon/Dart even more now...What $$ range would this TKX kit be?....Thanx for the brief fond memory of being 4 and steering on dad's lap....For me it was a 57 Chevy....Should say Dart DEMON....Or in my case it would say POISON DART....
Yes! It looks to me like the shifter will be right in line with the factory four speed position, but to the right a bit. And of course there were factory four speed bench cars.
Dylan certainly found himself a damn nice car to start his project with. This car is worthy of everything nice that he is installing. Do you have any idea what he paid for it? If you don’t want to divulge that information I would understand. Some people don’t like to talk money when it comes to cars but I am curious what he got this cherry for compared to some of the bondo buckets out there people are asking $20,000-30,000 for. It’s not a Dodge Charger for Christ’s sake.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Do they still make a "stubby" filter for the 318? That's what I used to use on my Valiant since it had no 90° adapter, twice pipes on factory manifolds. I could never get a full-sizer in.
Yes, you are crazy 😅 I fully considered installing it the other way / upside down, and if the GM mount actually fit inside the crossmember that way, we would have a mounted five speed right now. But it doesn’t.
Essentially what I’m going to do is trust Silversport’s math on the transmission height when we get their crossmember. I will check the rear u joint angle and see what’s what. While it’s not a precise measurement, with the transmission floating where I thought it should be and the rear suspension compressed, it looked like a straight shot.
@@DeadDodgeGarage When I was doing my Changer with the TKO 600, Silver sport was sure it was a direct fit. Sure it fits but 2" down at the tail shaft. Customer cars and life have the Challenger sitting to the side, I promise that it will be back in the shop for the reassembly after I get that drive line angle sorted and all the paying cars out of the way.
Well shit but if you have the whole truck why not cut the floor out of the truck but I see where you're coming from and also you just smashed my hopes of being cheap manual swapping my 74 charger...dang it
Did it seem like Bill Murry's Groundhog Day? Kept repeating the same thing over and over. Engine out engine in engine out engine in, at least it's all in the name of progress.
Negative - never went to any kind of mechanic schooling, not even auto tech. I am fully self taught. I learned by doing, listening, watching videos, and reading Allpar articles.
No… that original paint in the engine compartment is almost perfect, after the hours I spent degreasing it. It’s a flawless example of what a factory engine bay should have looked like. And the car is not getting painted.
I could not agree with you more when it comes to headers if you don't get absolute top quality ones I'd rather not have them at all. They just leak and do everything you don't want a manifold to do
Several! 1) this is a roller cam engine that doesn’t need a cam break in. 2) the “Mopar Or No Cart” is at Rocket and not at my shop. I have a run stand here too, but it’s not ready for use. 3) it’s a crate engine and not one of my builds. I’ll put faith in ATK’s ability to deliver a good usable engine.
@@idaholineman5788 Maybe he would, if you sponsor a build....for the advancement of MOPAR scientific knowledge and stuff. Is Jamie a 501(C)(3) Corporation? He IS a non profit organization after all, right? Then you can get a tax write off! WOOPIE!
Are you sure that Hurst crossmember isn't upside down? If their special mount looks anything like the Silver Sports one, it should fit into the pocket of the crossmember where the 'H' is. idk
1) There is no documentation for that crossmember *anywhere* that I can find. There is no reference to a transmission mount part number. There are no diagrams. There is absolutely no information on it, period, and since it’s out of production… that’s a problem.
2) The slots on the Hurst crossmember perfectly match the bolt spacing of the GM mount I showed - unlike the taller Silversport mount, which has a wider stud pattern. As best as I can tell, the short one is the mount designed to work with it - and it comes nowhere close to fitting inside the notch on the crossmember. I searched for similarly configured GM mounts and found nothing that would. I can therefore only surmise that it is designed to use the generic GM mount, and that it must go with the flat pointed upward and the pocket downward.
I installed it both ways during testing. Hell, I even paid close attention to the orientation of their “H” logo attempting to confirm the installation. I considered flipping it upside down, grinding out the slotted holes to the wider pattern, and grinding down the mount Silversport provided so that it would fit inside that pocket. At the end of the day, I realized that whatever I piece together will not match what Silversport had in mind. So we said to heck with it and ordered their crossmember instead.
@@DeadDodgeGarage 24:44.. open ends.. id of cut them 45 ish degree,s. then plated them. just my ausie 2c..
get yourself some good gasless wire.. not cheap stuff.. gas here in aus is like work 2 weeks to pay for it.. you can buy a bottle for 450$. then $80 ish a fill.. i went gasless..it need more amps & longer wire..works great in cyclones, rain, wind. ideal for wash ington..
eye.... last comment, pun intended. [ wash... ].. eye would of while engine was out 75 times,, bought a can of baby sick yellow, took the master off, de rusted the b/head. & painted it.. just my ausie 2c.. looks like a mint rust free body.. should get my 73 chall back....one yr....owned 14 yrs, laws here in aus are pathetic..pre historic, before earth was molded.
I’m a fan of the gasless wire unless I need a nice looking weld.
I Love this car! These A-bodys are about the only affordable classic Mopar projects left. I'm in northeast Georgia and rusty turds are about all that is left. This engine and drive train match should be about bullet proof. What a beast of a ride this is going to be! Just a little jealous, Jordan!
25 years ago I converted our 1978 Fox (owned since 1983) from 200ci I-6/3-speed manual/6.75 rear to SEFI HO 5.0L/T-5 5-speed/8.8 rear (3.27:1). V-8 K-member (the I-6 uses a unique K-member), HD suspension/steering/brakes. Full dual exhaust. Although there was a hole in the trans tunnel from the original 3-speed shifter the T-5s shifter was a bit further rearwards. I had to use a generally similar technique (no lift - dropped the engine/trans in from the top over the installed K member) to determine where the new shifter would come thru the trans tunnel essentially enlarging the existing hole rearwards.
This is such a cool project. Love to see later muscle derivatives becoming real muscle.
I LOVE a 73/74 Dart Sport ! Owned 7 of them over the years..
I had a slant six, three on the floor ‘73. I got it running in the guy’s driveway, drove it home, and gave it a rattle can resto back in 2008. It was one of the more solid A-bodies I’ve owned. I sold it to some scammy Canadian classic car salesman for not enough money. Oh well.
Ooooohhh tkx..I wants one.
That’s going to be one badass drivers car
I enjoyed this and thank you for making the video 😊
I am looking forward to seeing more on this one!
This car will be a ton o fun!
The TK trans is nice as far as street drivability goes and will take some abuse. That being said if you quickly release the clutch on a prepped surface with with a sticky tire with the engine spinning at a somewhat higher RPM they tend to destroy some of the internal components. I know because I have witnessed this happen twice. Just a friendly heads up.
Good to know… yikes.
I've been waiting for this for while, and today is that day. YAY!!
Can’t wait to see this rolling .
Good to see real garage stuff being done, also cutting a chunk of old tire makes a good low profile mount.
I always put my engine in and out from the bottom (on my mopars)
Works like a charm 👍😃
Awesome. Thanks for the video.
You're making "Awesomeness" happen!
Looking Clean so far!
I couldn’t agree with you more about the cheap headers. Every set I installed ended up being scraped and factory manifolds reinstalled.
I’ve got a set of LA / B bod Doug’s that will probably end up the same . Magnum manifolds coming
@ right now I’m way down the slant rabbit hole. I have a old school set of Dutra duals. Half is a factory manifold cut down and welded half is after market cast iron. My point being if Dr. Dodge Doug Dutra himself figured cast is best who am I to disagree.
Never again…
Coming along pretty good, nice job
Thank you Jamie
Modify the cross member you've got when you get welding gas of course lol yeah you are doing a lot of work it's going to come out awesome bro and be a bad ass ride for sure can't wait to hear it run
Don't forget the twisting moment that is transferred to the G/Box X/member through the torsion bars. When I clearanced my X/member for a T5 I thinned the hump section a bit like you guys have done and blended the cut out down the bottom bends (no step) but I also stitch welded the 'flanges' of the X/member to the floor. Torque boxes will also offer some real value here tying the now somewhat weakened X/member to the sills. (Sorry, rockers)
I talked about that in the video. We’re putting subframe connectors in the car. No plans for torque boxes currently, but it would be a good idea.
That's a hell of a transmission.
Excellent video, very cool build
Memories…my first car back in 1987 was a 75 Dart Sport. Previous owner had 340 “cloned” it with the stripes and a six pack hood scoop. Had the mandatory air shocks and deep dish Cragar SS on the back for that 70s street machine vibe. Disappointed so many old dudes when they realized it was just a dart. My plan was to install a 383 , 4 speed and tub it but my mom sold it to a dude for basically nothing because she was tired of it sitting in her backyard while I was in the military. I’m sure it has been junked and crushed at this point but I wish I could get it back. A stroked small block and five speed would be my current choice of drivetrain. That car encouraged my love for Mopar but unfortunately, my wallet couldn’t support that habit so cheap and plentiful won out and I ended up a ford guy…
If i love my 833 in my Dart Sport, I’d probably love a 5 speed! Love this project - glad you’re making progress. 👍🏼🏁🇺🇸🔥
Good afternoon,,,,,,,,, Yeee Yeee 😊😊
Looking pretty good !
This is just what I’ve been checking into most recently. Doing a killer job! Missing my ‘67 Dart GT, which had my ‘65 273 HP Commando engine with the A833 4 speed. Not real racy, just a lot of fun to drive.
yes! the day has come
Really good job Jami .
Great video it'll save a lot of people a lot time and money.
Great filming, I appreciate the detail and quality.
I had a 1972 Plymouth satellite the same colour as the Dart. I miss that car so bad that I’ve been avoiding looking at Plymouth from that vintage for some time. I really need a Dodge pickup truck for project I’m doing,,,but I want a satellite roadrunner.
I may have to contact you to see what kind of arrangement can be made to get a 71,72 Plymouth Satellite, it’s the front grille that turns my crank.
You do a great job on those cars, you really know your mopar and everything you do is the way we did things back in the seventies.
Darn, I sold my 71 Satellite a year ago for $2500, and my 72 Satellite 3 years ago for $2000. Both olive green, both Sebrings, both with 318s, 904s, 8.25s, and 2.93s. And copious rust.
I don’t know where any of those are hiding… thank you!
So close to 50k subs. Nice!
I know it! It's gonna happen soon.
Great video. Doing the same swap on my 69 Dart but with an AlterKation member. I got the complete big block setup from the bell to the driveshaft from another 69. Couldn't have done it before you in a 100 years. Now I need a 383 cause the 440 that I have is to tight according to you and other channels.
Oh, a 440 *can* fit... but it'll be terrible to actually work on.
I always thought if you are gonna cut the cross member, might as well just put a 6 speed. I think Todd Ron Restorations has a really nice weld in structural support for that purpose.
Well I’m sure the TKX will still be pretty great, even if it is missing a speed.
@DeadDodgeGarage oh no doubt it will be great. Yes, the 6 speed will cost a bit more, but the level of effort seems almost the same. I have a 4 speed Duster so I'm jealous of either a 5 speed or 6 speed.
For those who are curious, the silver sport mount is completely different. Its beef and is similar to the factory cross member. I had to keep cutting and test fitting until there wasn't much left. I ended up cutting a fairly large hole in the floor and added gussetts to add strength. I then covered my mess with a 14g steel plate. It works great but i hate doing irreversible things to my mopar
Just got back from Lowes, needed some stainless pan head screws and stainless washers. Love how the screws come in eight pack but the matching washers come in a seven pack....Hardware is such a scam unless you need bulk quantities.
The best shop investment I’ve ever made was that blue rack of bolts and associated hardware I put in a month or so ago. I can’t tell you how many trips to buy hardware or sessions finding and cleaning old crap for random projects it has already saved me.
@@DeadDodgeGaragewhere did the hardware/bins come from?
Just like hot dogs and hot dog buns don't match.
It's THE MAN trying to keep us down!
What is not a scam these days?
Project like this... problems are going to reveal themselves. Repeatedly. Ruthlessly.
This thing is getting closer and closer to being a whole car. Its like 50% gooder
Pretty cool.
Love those Edelbrock valve covers. Be thankful Edelbrock brought them back, they did for every make but Olds, even AMC. I have a 50 year old set. Beautiful headers, we have $2000+ American Racing Headers. I lived with my $200 shipped Chinese stainless headers, a tube needed moving. I am planning on putting the Terminator X Max off the Olds and on my Dakota for proper EFI and 42RE trans control and actually have command start, that start. I added 1 gauge battery cables, WTF Dodge, 6 gauge cables! I will be also eliminating the serpentine setup and use V belts on the Olds, so I will also be blasting with my cabinet. I almost went with the TKX swap, probably should of instead of a 4L80E. That should be fun as hell, stroker and manual trans in that A body.
I really should get in to stuff like this. As I’ve said, I’ve been a tech for 23 years and working on modern trash under warranty is wearing real thin these days. I know what you do is also frustrating, but when you’re done, the car is better than when it started. When I’m done, it’s not broken anymore, but it’s still factory. Then I get to write a lovely descriptive paragraph describing in detail how I diagnosed, repaired and verified the repair. Then pray VW warranty finds that sufficient. 😒I also have to get done in what VW and the customer deem to be an acceptable amount of time.
P.S. We have seven new Atlases awaiting replacement engines, they have less than 6k miles on them.
I think I've mentioned before that what you do sounds like the stuff of my nightmares. Yes, there is stress and frustration in this too, but in general I find it so much better than normal car wrenching. It's actually fun a lot of the time, and rewarding almost all of the time.
I also live in Buffalo, NY. So most everything is totally rusted out within 5 or 6 years. It’s a special kind of hell really.😂
I had a friend up near there. He said they would buy a “winter” car, because after just a few years the frame would break in half from the rust. Take care.
Almost, almost there :-)
JAMIE, I sure wish I had a 2 post lift. The last one I did was undid the k frame and jacked up the car off the engine a 4x4 at a time. Took a day and a half just to get it high enough to get it out and a week to get it back in. With the wife's help.
My brother did a couple at our old shop with a cherry picker lifting the car off the drivetrain. I did the disassembly on this car using the same method, but my overhead crane for the lifting job.
💯 sleeper 💯 👀
Yeeeeepppp… the only hints at all will be the wheels and the dual exhaust system.
Adding TTI headers & Firmfeel p/s box to my 340 build list
Nice
To paraphrase JFK, we choose to do these things, not because they are easy but because we thought they would be easy.
Exactly 😂
Cool project,, hurry up and lets make some tire smoke !
Good things come to those who wait 😅
This is gonna be one bad a$$ machine!
All the spicy
Awesome !! Back on the peanut butter 🥜 Duster !!
That 408 stroker & TKX 5 spd transmission Look MINT !!
I like your , floor engine/ cradle / Marshall amp dollie
#PeanutButterDuster
That cart has served me well. It used to hold up most of a 331 Chrysler Hemi in my old garage…
As Peg @ Zip Ties & Bias Plies would say: "you don't need all that unibody."
putting a 46RH overdrive trans behind my 410 , in my 66 barracuda . had to remove the entire cross member tunnel section . I have that done , re enforced . now for fitting new sheet metal to widen the rest of the tunnel . . plus installing new floor panels
Yes, those are huge. They fit in E and B bodies much better - but it’s still a job.
Hi Jamie, love your channel - can you give specifics on installing the Saginaw p/s pump (brackets, hoses etc)? I have a Duster with the Federal pump and would like to convert.
Reminds me of AL Bundy
Shocking 😂
👽 .... .. NICE
OEM application for that clutch master cylinder was Triumph TR-3A (Girling).
Ah, I’ve never seen that. While not identical, it sure looks like that’s where they lifted the design from. If I remember right, they make it in a couple different bore sizes.
Measure the pinion angles and make sure the trans is high enough in the tunnel. Especially with a transplanted axle, is it set at the right angle? Vibrations will haunt you if you dont make sure the angles are right. Must be within 2° of each other, Trans pointed down to diff, diff pointed up to trans. Can add a couple of extra degrees down to the diff to account for axle wrap under load if your not using caltracs or similar.
I’m on it, thanks 😄
Haven't watched this one yet, in the last video, I saw studebaker!!! More please!!!!????
It’s coming 😅
😊
👌🏼✔️⛽️
Great pov on a body drop/5 speed swap Mr J...Makes me want a Duster/Demon/Dart even more now...What $$ range would this TKX kit be?....Thanx for the brief fond memory of being 4 and steering on dad's lap....For me it was a 57 Chevy....Should say Dart DEMON....Or in my case it would say POISON DART....
The transmission isn’t totally nuts. The whole kit was in the $5000 neighborhood.
Would be great to do something with that hideous front bumper 😎
It’s already been changed for a ‘73
Is it possible to use that transmission with a bench seat? Love those A bodies!
Yes! It looks to me like the shifter will be right in line with the factory four speed position, but to the right a bit. And of course there were factory four speed bench cars.
What would you say is the best option for converting an Auto truck with a 727 to stick? Or putting a better more modern automatic into it?
ONCE AGAIN, but I repeat myself!
is the oil filter being so close to the headers a problem?
Not really. They’re all like that.
Where's Bob? And where'd he get Plums from ?
Dylan certainly found himself a damn nice car to start his project with. This car is worthy of everything nice that he is installing. Do you have any idea what he paid for it? If you don’t want to divulge that information I would understand. Some people don’t like to talk money when it comes to cars but I am curious what he got this cherry for compared to some of the bondo buckets out there people are asking $20,000-30,000 for. It’s not a Dodge Charger for Christ’s sake.
It came from a family member, and he decided to spend the savings making it awesome.
If I could go back & tap some of the Mopar Engineers on the shoulder & give them hints of how to fix the basic design issues then...
That oil filter is going to be a bitch to get to once it's in the car!
They always are...
@@DeadDodgeGarage Do they still make a "stubby" filter for the 318? That's what I used to use on my Valiant since it had no 90° adapter, twice pipes on factory manifolds. I could never get a full-sizer in.
Am I crazy, or were you putting the cross member up there upside down @26:50 ?
Yes, you are crazy 😅 I fully considered installing it the other way / upside down, and if the GM mount actually fit inside the crossmember that way, we would have a mounted five speed right now. But it doesn’t.
@DeadDodgeGarage rip! Thanks for the reply!
Top 5 for first comments
Nailed it
Driveline angle?
Essentially what I’m going to do is trust Silversport’s math on the transmission height when we get their crossmember. I will check the rear u joint angle and see what’s what. While it’s not a precise measurement, with the transmission floating where I thought it should be and the rear suspension compressed, it looked like a straight shot.
@@DeadDodgeGarage When I was doing my Changer with the TKO 600, Silver sport was sure it was a direct fit. Sure it fits but 2" down at the tail shaft. Customer cars and life have the Challenger sitting to the side, I promise that it will be back in the shop for the reassembly after I get that drive line angle sorted and all the paying cars out of the way.
I need a lift also a 18 spline a833. And like a million other things that i totally dont need
Who built that Magnum?
ATK Engines
Would it be possible for a guy to find a early 90s Dakota with a small block and a five speed and come out cheaper
Oh sure. Just wave goodbye to your factory floor panel and torsion bar crossmember!
Well shit but if you have the whole truck why not cut the floor out of the truck but I see where you're coming from and also you just smashed my hopes of being cheap manual swapping my 74 charger...dang it
Did it seem like Bill Murry's Groundhog Day? Kept repeating the same thing over and over. Engine out engine in engine out engine in, at least it's all in the name of progress.
Many days do 😅
Welding gas on weekend, England Marine and Industrial in Astoria. England Marine (no industrial in name) Westport?
Oh, no idea. I go to Central Welding in town, I get some kind of commercial discount there. It’s fine… it’ll get done soon enough.
Just a question how did you learn how to work on old mopar cars? Did you go to school for it?
Negative - never went to any kind of mechanic schooling, not even auto tech. I am fully self taught. I learned by doing, listening, watching videos, and reading Allpar articles.
hi good ep before you put the engine back in maybe you should repaint the engine bay if you have any time left ok
No… that original paint in the engine compartment is almost perfect, after the hours I spent degreasing it. It’s a flawless example of what a factory engine bay should have looked like. And the car is not getting painted.
I could not agree with you more when it comes to headers if you don't get absolute top quality ones I'd rather not have them at all. They just leak and do everything you don't want a manifold to do
Exactly! Glorified skid plates in these cars…
When you're talking Hurst, they're thinking GM😢
Are they?
Nothing is ever as easy as it seems and no job ever comes in on time or under budget
But it's not red 😢
It’ll be ok… and anyway I didn’t build it
@DeadDodgeGarage but still...
get the milwaukee right angle...much better although no both directions
I wish Bob would just give you a PLUB so you'd quit asking for one........jeez!
😂
Ignorant question time: Is there a reason you didn't break in the new engine on a run stand?
Several! 1) this is a roller cam engine that doesn’t need a cam break in. 2) the “Mopar Or No Cart” is at Rocket and not at my shop. I have a run stand here too, but it’s not ready for use. 3) it’s a crate engine and not one of my builds. I’ll put faith in ATK’s ability to deliver a good usable engine.
Wonder how much different the fitment would be in a b body
Certainly easy, but I don't know how much easier.
@ it must be done..for science and stuffs
@@idaholineman5788
Maybe he would, if you sponsor a build....for the advancement of MOPAR scientific knowledge and stuff.
Is Jamie a 501(C)(3) Corporation?
He IS a non profit organization after all, right?
Then you can get a tax write off!
WOOPIE!
I saw 420 views.
Nailed it. Haha.
Damn boy. You sure do love to talk too much. 🤔
It makes me almost $10,000 a month now, so if it’s all the same to you, I’m going to keep talking! Thanks.
Too much babbling and not enough doing!
👋👋👋👋👋👋