Two unofficial Southern Command program observations: 1. Cass at Dr Diff has quite the stellar reputation amongst the Mopar sect - for good reason. 2. I've never managed to break a properly set up 8 3/4 in my 60+ years, almost all of which were/are behind 440 4 speeds - and I do tend to drive "spiritedly". Strange axles are sweet as hell, but damn....$$$! - Ed on the Ridge
Always had 8 and 3/4 rears... They came from the factory in our 65 A990 superstock car....Dana went in stick superstock A bodies in 68 and in factory 440 and hemi cars in 69 I believe.....Never broke a 8 and 3/4 rear... I have one in my blown early hemi hotrod and I had Mark Williams install steel caps on it... Usually when they do fail they break the cap....
Cut out the discussion on this for time, but according to my reading the Hemi super stock A bodies got a custom built Dana 44, not a 60. I have yet to actually see one of those. I don’t know about ‘69, but again, I have yet to find any documentation indicating a Dana 60 was installed in an A body from the factory.
@@DeadDodgeGarage The only A-body cars that came with Dana 60's were the superstock A body stick cars with 4.88 gears...The automatic A body cars got narrowed 8 and 3/4 with 4.86 gears... Old Direct Connection catalogs use to list the narrowed tubes for Dana axles back in the day and special hemi K members...
Wow it's been a year already, seems like it wasn't that long ago when you first got the car and you were explaining what all you were going to do to it. I can remember putting a Dana rear-end in a 68 barracuda, all I clearly remember was how heavy the thing was and swearing to myself that I would never do that by myself again. I did though.
$3200 for a brand new, clean, powder coated Dana 60 w/ brakes is an amazing deal compared to a 50+ year old, dirty, possibly bent, 8 3/4” likely with an open diff.
@@DeadDodgeGarageHow much is all of that going to cost?.... Because on marketplace...they price dusters like it's a black and white hemicuda with the doomsday heads!!!
I bought my ‘67 Belvedere 2 project for $3200! Now I need a $3200 rear end?? lol 😆 I’ll have to go look underneath and see what the penstar gods blessed me with!! It’s a factory 318 car with all the original parts and engine
This is a cool build. It's nice to see a car that was built in the shadow of true muscle step into the spotlight. It feel a lot like souping up the 300. I hope you are able to do that before it moves on to its next owner. But most importantly it is saved from being a Prius.
I have an 8-3/4" in the back of my '62 Valiant with a 408 stroker and the Mopar Performance spring relocation kit so I can run 8"-wide wheels and tires. It really made the car handle differently than stock, and not in a good way. I had to do other suspension modifications in order to get it handling well again.
Dana 60's are all the rage in the off road world. Most use converted Ford axles. I'm seeing that going this route (at least for my rear axle) is a bit more cost effective for my 99 XJ that I'm currently building. It ticks all the boxes plus the fact of getting it in the width I want and bearing size I want is even more appealing. This is looking like a very viable option. Thanks for the info. Looking forward to seeing this Dart Sport ripping very soon...🤓
Man that thing’s gonna rip! I can’t wait to hear the engine and watch it take off! I’ve never been much of a muscle car guy, but these cars you have going are pretty damn sweet.
A great video as always! I'm a Chrysler fan and I can't afford the big dollar cars that you all have so I was thinking 🤔 about getting a 76 Magnum. What do you think about my idea to get into a Chrysler car Jamie?
Yeah, you’re not joking about trying to find an affordable A Body rear end in good shape. Especially for an Early A Body. Might need to revisit Doctor Diff’s website. We don’t need an 8 3/4 for the 273. But something a little beefier then the 7 1/4 one legger would be good.
Jamie, Not sure if you were being flip with that 'nickel something alloy' comment and I dont mean to sound like a KIA: Also known as '90/10', 'NiCopp' or 'CuNiFer' tubing it is a copper based alloy consisting of 9.2 percent nickel, 1.4 Percent iron, 0.8 Percent manganese, and 88.6 Percent copper. While the high percentage of copper gives the material its formability it is the nickel that gives the strength to the copper. It has the burst strength of steel with much greater bend/formabilty (ie bending, flaring), and exceptional corrosion resistance to brake fluid, moisture, and salt spray.
Under $3,200 for the Strange S60 is one of the more reasonable deals out there. You’re getting a stout brand new axle built to order, and considering a new build Beefed up F*rd 9” based housing with a new high strength aluminum center section, a higher end limited slip, the big chromoly axle shafts (I think they’re 40 spline from Strange but I can’t recall for sure, not a Ford guy) and a few other extra beefy touches will run you up into the >$5k range easy.
My goal for the Valiant is the Sandhills Open Road Challenge vintage class. It will take a few more years to get it there. I want to hit some auto cross in the meantime to get my self prepared.
Reminds me of a friend of my dads who owned a 1968 dart. He had the 340 hood and a Dana 60 for his stock slant 6. Great body and interior he wouldn't sell it but he donated it for $1500.
I bought a whole 67 barracuda for the 8.75 and the trim on the trunk lid. Chased that car for about 5 years .Put a 7.25 in it and sold it! Found some used 340 springs somewhere. The rearend sits behind my 67 formula S for 20 years now. Course now that trim is reproduced..
The Dana 60 is probably way overkill for this car, but that's better than "underkill". It's looking great under that A body, and the whole package is looking to be a very fun, powerful, and great handling machine.
Expensive, but great diff. I want to do that spring hanger step thing on my vc valiant . Your right the 7¼ diffs do last and stronger than other 6 cylinder diffs.
For one-stop shopping, that Dana 60 looks like a good deal. On the complete other hand- seen 8.25's and 7.25's take a ton of abuse doing the 'one wheel squeal' with skinnies!!!
I really like the S60. Remember, too, that both the tubes and the center section are much stronger than stock Dana 60s. Also, the 35 spline axles are great. The big drawback is no freeway gear ratios, but, that's why you use a Gear Vendors over/underdrive. I have 2 from Strange in 60s Buicks.
Have a Dr diff built 8.75 sitting in the corner the shop. He built it years ago and has the same Ford bearing ends and exploder brakes. I should use it someday....lol
Great video...DAMN you got a lot of things to install. Where do you get the $$$$, your wife must want to kick you. I just picked up a 1968 Dana from a 1968 hemi 4 speed coronet. My 1969 coronet with a 440 went 12:50 with the 8 3/4 373 gears. This 4:10 Dana is HEAVY....I'm having second thoughts but if I put it in I can use the 373 for my 1970 challenger. For sure your Dana is over kill for your car but it looks bad ass for sure. My Dana has right hand and left hand threads which I need to change too. Can I use my 8 3/4 brakes and plates or should I just rebuild what's on the Dana now? Thanks for your entertaining videos🎉
I know 100% that I spent time in this video explaining that this is not my car, these are not my shiny new parts, and I wouldn't have ever bought them. You can use your 8 3/4 brakes if you like. They swap right over. Thanks!
Im thinking going witha 528 stroker for my build with a semi aggressive flat tappet cam for the midrange and i am seriously thinking about a dana 60. Well im also like broke because strokers are expensive and i havent even called the machine shop but honestly whats stopping me from taking a 60 out of a truck and throwing it under the changer. I have an lsd 60 in my 90 i could run stupid tires on it and say damn the looks. But seriously ive been doing tons of dana 60 research ever since i found out 9 inch fords are even more expensive to buy and this video is perfect. Are you sure you dont have a window to my brain or something because i swear every other video is on a topic im currently obsessed with or in the middle of doing myself.
The Valiant has an 8.75"- axle came out of an A 108 Travco "Family Wagon." Had it cut down & a rear brace on the back side (Harold up in SeaTac, Tom knows him). Doc Diff 11.25" Explorer kit, axles; with a 742-case, 3.23 gears with fresh bearings & clutches. FFi rear anti-sway bar, too. The gearbox is just an A-833 OD, not perfect for drag racing & that isn't my goal.
I agree completely which is why I also got the Strange Dana 60 for my 64 Barracuda. I am still debating what power plant I want to go with as I want to keep using the push button trans. Any suggestions or ideas if there is a 4 speed trans that I can still use the push button linkage with? (I don't know much about how all of that works, yet, I am enrolling in some auto classes now that I have finished the body work program)
1965 was the last of the Pushbutton Transmissions. The '65 727 pushbutton is the only year that takes a regular slip-joint driveline. 727 use typically takes a bit of 'massaging' at the firewall/transmission tunnel weld flange Earlier versions- both 904 and 727 used a 'flanged' or 'ball-and-trunion' output- like what you have in your '64. A '65 from behind a Polyblock will fit Gen1Hemi w/spacer- LA's- Magnums & Gen3Hemi's. The register (snout) in the front center of the torque converter is 1.5" on the pushbutton transmissions. The '67 and newer crankshafts have a 1.88" register hole in the rear flange of the crankshaft. There are inexpensive aftermarket 'rings' or 'sleeves' to positively center the early style register in the later crankshafts by bring them up to 1.88". The 4 torque converter bolts on the flexplate do not 'center' the torque converter- they just transfer power- the centering is done via the register. Alternative is to replace the front section of the '65 transmission with later model 'guts'- can use regular 'off the shelf' 727 torque converters and no sleeve needed then. I did the late-model conversion to my '64 904 in my '64 and it worked fine. 904's are routinely ran with 3-400hp engines. There is a 'ball and trunion' elimanator kit for the 904- now uses normal driveline. Goid Luck!
The short answer is… no. For a ‘66 or later car, the shifter hookup on the newer overdrive is exactly the same. But push button is not compatible. I wouldn’t worry about the extra gear. Keep your three speed and enjoy it!
Whats the HP of that 408? I got a 8 3/4 in my 72 Charger but its getting my 500HP 440 so im wondering the limits of the 8 3/4. Im guessing it will be fine but I'll be on the lookout for the D60 if needed.
Nice work! Curious, how much clearance do you have between the front of the gas tank and the axle cover? Before I bought my 73 swinger, someone swapped in a Dana 44 (don’t ask, I have no clue why) and that thing barely clears the gas tank. Always surprising to me that the Dana 60 was doable.
I had a 77 f150 with a 300cid . It had a 9" in the back. It actually failed. One of the main cap looking things broke in half. My engine guy said that it was a freak failure. It certainly wasn't from the power of my rebuilt 300. Lol
Is there enough room between the Dana and the gas tank??? Also, looks like it's got green bearings. That's something you could take some time to explain to the peeps.....
The 9.25 is plenty stout. I’m not sure what the comparison is between the two really. My instinct would be to prefer the Dana and assume it’s a good bit stronger.
I’d try to make this car look as innocuous as possible and put cameras in the side windows so I could watch people’s eyes pop when I give it the beans. 😅
Not trying to really say anything bad.but why didn't you go with a 9 inch there lighter and cheaper than that probably just stronger..and Dana isn't a Chrysler product.its made by Dana corp . Not Mopar..
Well it I believe is Dylans choice, he may want to be able to swap to a big block later and besides Mopar did outfit some of their cars with Danas so what the heck why not. I do get how it would rob a bit of the horses.
Did I ever say that the Dana was a Chrysler product? No. Can you buy a ready made 9” axle that bolts directly into an A-body Mopar for $3200? Cool, send me the link. What Todd says. This wasn’t my choice, this is what showed up - but I get it.
Your story time is way better than Uncle Tony's. That man could cure insomnia all by himself.
The coolest term from you I have ever heard...."STOCK PLUS". Love it, love you, love your channel, love your content! Thank you for being great Jamie!
You are too kind. Haha. Thank you!
Two unofficial Southern Command program observations:
1. Cass at Dr Diff has quite the stellar reputation amongst the Mopar sect - for good reason.
2. I've never managed to break a properly set up 8 3/4 in my 60+ years, almost all of which
were/are behind 440 4 speeds - and I do tend to drive "spiritedly".
Strange axles are sweet as hell, but damn....$$$!
- Ed on the Ridge
I have to add that the driver makes a lot of the difference. 😎
Well, I broke an 8 3/4 axle shaft 😅 but yeah… operator error.
Yeah, I have never harmed an 8 3/4 in my 45+ years of abusing Mopars, but I have always been a small block guy, so there's that.
Always had 8 and 3/4 rears... They came from the factory in our 65 A990 superstock car....Dana went in stick superstock A bodies in 68 and in factory 440 and hemi cars in 69 I believe.....Never broke a 8 and 3/4 rear... I have one in my blown early hemi hotrod and I had Mark Williams install steel caps on it... Usually when they do fail they break the cap....
Cut out the discussion on this for time, but according to my reading the Hemi super stock A bodies got a custom built Dana 44, not a 60. I have yet to actually see one of those. I don’t know about ‘69, but again, I have yet to find any documentation indicating a Dana 60 was installed in an A body from the factory.
@@DeadDodgeGarage The only A-body cars that came with Dana 60's were the superstock A body stick cars with 4.88 gears...The automatic A body cars got narrowed 8 and 3/4 with 4.86 gears... Old Direct Connection catalogs use to list the narrowed tubes for Dana axles back in the day and special hemi K members...
Wow it's been a year already, seems like it wasn't that long ago when you first got the car and you were explaining what all you were going to do to it. I can remember putting a Dana rear-end in a 68 barracuda, all I clearly remember was how heavy the thing was and swearing to myself that I would never do that by myself again. I did though.
$3200 for a brand new, clean, powder coated Dana 60 w/ brakes is an amazing deal compared to a 50+ year old, dirty, possibly bent, 8 3/4” likely with an open diff.
Right, that’s what I’m saying.
@@DeadDodgeGarageHow much is all of that going to cost?....
Because on marketplace...they price dusters like it's a black and white hemicuda with the doomsday heads!!!
I bought my ‘67 Belvedere 2 project for $3200!
Now I need a $3200 rear end??
lol 😆
I’ll have to go look underneath and see what the penstar gods blessed me with!!
It’s a factory 318 car with all the original parts and engine
@2:00. Love it!😅. Cheers!
Can't wait to see it pulling the curves well your phone fly's around ricocheting off the interior :-)
It’s gonna be great times!
This is a cool build. It's nice to see a car that was built in the shadow of true muscle step into the spotlight. It feel a lot like souping up the 300. I hope you are able to do that before it moves on to its next owner. But most importantly it is saved from being a Prius.
I have an 8-3/4" in the back of my '62 Valiant with a 408 stroker and the Mopar Performance spring relocation kit so I can run 8"-wide wheels and tires. It really made the car handle differently than stock, and not in a good way. I had to do other suspension modifications in order to get it handling well again.
With the quickness..Yes! Right on!
Dana 60's are all the rage in the off road world. Most use converted Ford axles. I'm seeing that going this route (at least for my rear axle) is a bit more cost effective for my 99 XJ that I'm currently building. It ticks all the boxes plus the fact of getting it in the width I want and bearing size I want is even more appealing. This is looking like a very viable option. Thanks for the info. Looking forward to seeing this Dart Sport ripping very soon...🤓
Bummer with rear D60s is they need to have the spindles bored to fit 35 spline axles. D60 fonts are way more popular. Full floater all the things!
Man that thing’s gonna rip! I can’t wait to hear the engine and watch it take off! I’ve never been much of a muscle car guy, but these cars you have going are pretty damn sweet.
A great video as always! I'm a Chrysler fan and I can't afford the big dollar cars that you all have so I was thinking 🤔 about getting a 76 Magnum. What do you think about my idea to get into a Chrysler car Jamie?
That’s a super buildable platform. Bet you can find tons of parts, and it’s already got pretty good suspension and brakes.
Awesome! Do it. Those are neat, and attainable. The “good” stuff is stupidly expensive these days. I like late Bs. My ‘79 300 is pretty awesome.
Thank you Jamie
Awesome rear end!👍
What a unit
I'm looking forward to the next one on this rig. 👍
Got lucky. Just happened to check for this at the right time. Gonna be a great day!
Sweet! Been looking forward to seeing more on this Dart!
Did you watch the same video?
@@nolanschanck4861 do you always ask silly questions?
You said "moron".
that's my car !
nice work !
It’s coming together nicely.
Buy once, cry once.
With that setup, that's the way to go.
Yeah, you’re not joking about trying to find an affordable A Body rear end in good shape. Especially for an Early A Body.
Might need to revisit Doctor Diff’s website. We don’t need an 8 3/4 for the 273. But something a little beefier then the 7 1/4 one legger would be good.
My 68 dart could use an upgrade as well.
Jamie,
Not sure if you were being flip with that 'nickel something alloy' comment and I dont mean to sound like a KIA:
Also known as '90/10', 'NiCopp' or 'CuNiFer' tubing it is a copper based alloy consisting of 9.2 percent nickel, 1.4 Percent iron, 0.8 Percent manganese, and 88.6 Percent copper. While the high percentage of copper gives the material its formability it is the nickel that gives the strength to the copper. It has the burst strength of steel with much greater bend/formabilty (ie bending, flaring), and exceptional corrosion resistance to brake fluid, moisture, and salt spray.
NiCopp, that’s the stuff! It is truly excellent.
Under $3,200 for the Strange S60 is one of the more reasonable deals out there. You’re getting a stout brand new axle built to order, and considering a new build Beefed up F*rd 9” based housing with a new high strength aluminum center section, a higher end limited slip, the big chromoly axle shafts (I think they’re 40 spline from Strange but I can’t recall for sure, not a Ford guy) and a few other extra beefy touches will run you up into the >$5k range easy.
That is going to be oh so much fun!
My goal for the Valiant is the Sandhills Open Road Challenge vintage class. It will take a few more years to get it there. I want to hit some auto cross in the meantime to get my self prepared.
Reminds me of a friend of my dads who owned a 1968 dart. He had the 340 hood and a Dana 60 for his stock slant 6. Great body and interior he wouldn't sell it but he donated it for $1500.
I bought a whole 67 barracuda for the 8.75 and the trim on the trunk lid. Chased that car for about 5 years .Put a 7.25 in it and sold it! Found some used 340 springs somewhere. The rearend sits behind my 67 formula S for 20 years now.
Course now that trim is reproduced..
Great video Jamie, that Dart should look and run good when it's done
The Dana 60 is probably way overkill for this car, but that's better than "underkill". It's looking great under that A body, and the whole package is looking to be a very fun, powerful, and great handling machine.
That thing is going to be amazing! Well, it's a Mopar, so it's already amazing, but it will be even more amazinger, the amazingest? lol
It might just be totes amazeballs. Haha.
B body 8 3/4 fits in A body with the pads moved like you said. You can use mustang wheels (95 cobra mustang for example) with the b body stock width.
I know 😅
Expensive, but great diff. I want to do that spring hanger step thing on my vc valiant . Your right the 7¼ diffs do last and stronger than other 6 cylinder diffs.
Thank you Jamie , I always learn something from your episodes 😊
That’s the idea! Haha. Thanks!
That car looks clean. It's gonna be killer
Nice rear end ❤
Sweet MERCY !! Mother of periodic table of elements !!
That Rear axle is ,
Nicki Manji THIC !! 🍑💪💪
😅
For one-stop shopping, that Dana 60 looks like a good deal.
On the complete other hand- seen 8.25's and 7.25's take a ton of abuse doing the 'one wheel squeal' with skinnies!!!
Oh hell yeah. Haha. I’ve done a lot of testing there.
I really like the S60. Remember, too, that both the tubes and the center section are much stronger than stock Dana 60s. Also, the 35 spline axles are great. The big drawback is no freeway gear ratios, but, that's why you use a Gear Vendors over/underdrive.
I have 2 from Strange in 60s Buicks.
Nice! Yep, we’ve got a TKX five speed. It’s going to be great with the 3.73s.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I am sure it will.
Have a Dr diff built 8.75 sitting in the corner the shop. He built it years ago and has the same Ford bearing ends and exploder brakes. I should use it someday....lol
Oh, probably. Haha.
Great video...DAMN you got a lot of things to install. Where do you get the $$$$, your wife must want to kick you. I just picked up a 1968 Dana from a 1968 hemi 4 speed coronet. My 1969 coronet with a 440 went 12:50 with the 8 3/4 373 gears. This 4:10 Dana is HEAVY....I'm having second thoughts but if I put it in I can use the 373 for my 1970 challenger. For sure your Dana is over kill for your car but it looks bad ass for sure. My Dana has right hand and left hand threads which I need to change too. Can I use my 8 3/4 brakes and plates or should I just rebuild what's on the Dana now? Thanks for your entertaining videos🎉
I know 100% that I spent time in this video explaining that this is not my car, these are not my shiny new parts, and I wouldn't have ever bought them. You can use your 8 3/4 brakes if you like. They swap right over. Thanks!
Good evening,,,,,,,Yeee Yeee 😊
3.73 gears are perfect !
Im thinking going witha 528 stroker for my build with a semi aggressive flat tappet cam for the midrange and i am seriously thinking about a dana 60.
Well im also like broke because strokers are expensive and i havent even called the machine shop but honestly whats stopping me from taking a 60 out of a truck and throwing it under the changer. I have an lsd 60 in my 90 i could run stupid tires on it and say damn the looks.
But seriously ive been doing tons of dana 60 research ever since i found out 9 inch fords are even more expensive to buy and this video is perfect. Are you sure you dont have a window to my brain or something because i swear every other video is on a topic im currently obsessed with or in the middle of doing myself.
Damn dude,sometimes you do act like you know what you’re talking about. Haha great job
I’m not 100% sure what to do with that. Lol. Thanks though.
This will be a great street bruiser when it’s done.
Oh yeah. It could hurt some feelings. Haha.
Very nice video!
The Valiant has an 8.75"- axle came out of an A 108 Travco "Family Wagon." Had it cut down & a rear brace on the back side (Harold up in SeaTac, Tom knows him). Doc Diff 11.25" Explorer kit, axles; with a 742-case, 3.23 gears with fresh bearings & clutches. FFi rear anti-sway bar, too. The gearbox is just an A-833 OD, not perfect for drag racing & that isn't my goal.
I agree completely which is why I also got the Strange Dana 60 for my 64 Barracuda. I am still debating what power plant I want to go with as I want to keep using the push button trans. Any suggestions or ideas if there is a 4 speed trans that I can still use the push button linkage with? (I don't know much about how all of that works, yet, I am enrolling in some auto classes now that I have finished the body work program)
1965 was the last of the Pushbutton Transmissions.
The '65 727 pushbutton is the only year that takes a regular slip-joint driveline.
727 use typically takes a bit of 'massaging' at the firewall/transmission tunnel weld flange
Earlier versions- both 904 and 727 used a 'flanged' or 'ball-and-trunion' output- like what you have in your '64.
A '65 from behind a Polyblock will fit Gen1Hemi w/spacer- LA's- Magnums & Gen3Hemi's.
The register (snout) in the front center of the torque converter is 1.5" on the pushbutton transmissions.
The '67 and newer crankshafts have a 1.88" register hole in the rear flange of the crankshaft.
There are inexpensive aftermarket 'rings' or 'sleeves' to positively center the early style register in the later crankshafts by bring them up to 1.88".
The 4 torque converter bolts on the flexplate do not 'center' the torque converter- they just transfer power- the centering is done via the register.
Alternative is to replace the front section of the '65 transmission with later model 'guts'- can use regular 'off the shelf' 727 torque converters and no sleeve needed then.
I did the late-model conversion to my '64 904 in my '64 and it worked fine.
904's are routinely ran with 3-400hp engines.
There is a 'ball and trunion' elimanator kit for the 904- now uses normal driveline.
Goid Luck!
The short answer is… no. For a ‘66 or later car, the shifter hookup on the newer overdrive is exactly the same. But push button is not compatible. I wouldn’t worry about the extra gear. Keep your three speed and enjoy it!
So did the holes in the spring perch match the locating pin on the springs? Because they are typically oversized....
Oh… they’re oversized. I meant to say something about that. It’s not ideal.
@@DeadDodgeGarage seems like a bushing could fix that problem?
I was hoping to see a durability test of the 7 1/4 behind that hot small block.
I would have loved that…
Jamie. The rear-end doctor. 😂
Easy there 😅
@DeadDodgeGarage Sorry, just a bad joke
I have a Power Wagon with a 318 but wouldn't mind upgrading to a slant6
😅
Whats the HP of that 408?
I got a 8 3/4 in my 72 Charger but its getting my 500HP 440 so im wondering the limits of the 8 3/4. Im guessing it will be fine but I'll be on the lookout for the D60 if needed.
Big SMOKY burnouts incoming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work! Curious, how much clearance do you have between the front of the gas tank and the axle cover? Before I bought my 73 swinger, someone swapped in a Dana 44 (don’t ask, I have no clue why) and that thing barely clears the gas tank. Always surprising to me that the Dana 60 was doable.
We haven’t been able to compress the suspension yet, so I don’t know. Hopefully enough. It looks like it will clear ok.
How do you go about figuring out which Bilsteins to use? Their website does not list fitments for these cars.
Hmmm... ask Peter Bergman? bergmanautocraft.com/product-category/suspension-parts/page/2/
I had a 77 f150 with a 300cid . It had a 9" in the back. It actually failed. One of the main cap looking things broke in half. My engine guy said that it was a freak failure. It certainly wasn't from the power of my rebuilt 300. Lol
That’s impressive.
Dart sport vs dales demon coming to a drag strip summer of 2024!
Is there enough room between the Dana and the gas tank??? Also, looks like it's got green bearings. That's something you could take some time to explain to the peeps.....
Don’t know yet, haven’t been able to put weight on the axle… so we’ll see. I’ve discussed that before actually. But it’s been a while.
Hu hu , you said Nuts.
😅
How do the 9.25" rear ends stack up compared to the Dana's?
The 9.25 is plenty stout. I’m not sure what the comparison is between the two really. My instinct would be to prefer the Dana and assume it’s a good bit stronger.
Very awesome these companies supply these parts these days! Hooray for spending money on not that worth it projects!
Not worth it to who?
@@Littlehotrodshop a bad joke about my life’s projects, in dead dodges sarcastic humor voice
@@Jacked97Ram story of my life. As I like to say..."buy high, sell low"
That D 60 sure looks strange in an A body.
It’s just so… hooge
On the next DDG video, we actually build a Dodge powered hovercraft with a factory slant six, twin turbo... Go man go! Id watch. 😂
Where did you get the 340 springs?
Espo springs n things
I dunno, they just appeared - as if by magic. Haha.
I’d try to make this car look as innocuous as possible and put cameras in the side windows so I could watch people’s eyes pop when I give it the beans. 😅
It’s not getting painted 😅
i like the way you talk...
Well… thanks!
9:32? ...whoa...
Yep…
That’s gonna be a bitchen Duster. What are your thoughts or experience with 9 1/4” rearend?
I like your rear end, wait, that didn’t come out right 😂
I’m hearing that a lot today. Lol.
Ooooo shiny
👌🏼⛽️✔️
cool
Ooh did I see a bundle of cuda wheel well trim? 😂😂
Oh, yeah. Lol.
Beeeef!!
Bye-bye Grandpa-spec Beige-mobile.... 🤣🤣 She's truly going to be a Jekyll and Hyde type of transformation, isn't she!
Oh yeah. It’s gonna be great.
7 1/4 good for a garden trailer axle .
Ohhh they’re fine for a low powered driver.
Lol. I've flaired a few lines only to realize I left the fitting off.. doh!
That’s always good times. Haha.
Why do keep referring the demon as dales , I thought you owned it.
I do. That’s my Demon. And its name… is Dale’s Demon. That’s what it has always been and that’s what it will always be, however long I have it.
Overkill
First
Don't drop it on your nuts 😂 🥜🐿️
Not trying to really say anything bad.but why didn't you go with a 9 inch there lighter and cheaper than that probably just stronger..and Dana isn't a Chrysler product.its made by Dana corp . Not Mopar..
Well it I believe is Dylans choice, he may want to be able to swap to a big block later and besides Mopar did outfit some of their cars with Danas so what the heck why not. I do get how it would rob a bit of the horses.
Did I ever say that the Dana was a Chrysler product? No. Can you buy a ready made 9” axle that bolts directly into an A-body Mopar for $3200? Cool, send me the link. What Todd says. This wasn’t my choice, this is what showed up - but I get it.
👽 .... ..
Leave it that colour so that it always looks horrible and nobody knows how much money has been spent on it sleeper and less embarrassment
We’re on it. Lol. I don’t think it looks horrible, but it sure doesn’t look like a flashy muscle car.
giggity
Sounds kinda like Kermit the frog.
...I do? A couple people have told me I sound like Deadpool. All I can say is it's not easy being green.
To much yappin
This channel is ALL yappin'. Don't let the door hit your tush on the way out.
Careful of the 🌽
@@DeadDodgeGarage no i wont maybe you should take q's from simon fordman not one word get spoken just all work..