I have watched many DIY videos on electrical work and you are by far the best teacher i've seen. You're patient , thorough , and answer questions i would ask. Great job.
My buddy and I just did this at a friends restaurant. He used 3 wires, jumped them together with the receptacle. He cut sheathing off in other center wire ran around screw then did pig tail on ground. I did it the amateur way and had 1 wire for every screw. Lol his way was so clean and easy to do. I love learning new things. Thank you for the video.
Thanks to your great video I just updated my pool outlet from 2 to 4 gang. Followed your instructions, took my time, it’s now working. You saved me some money. Thanks
Great video. It's a good idea to learn both ways. With the 2nd method, the 1st receptacle with the line serves as passthrough for the 2nd receptacle (wiring in series). If one of them were GFCI and you wanted both receptacles to be protected, you would have no choice but to wire the 2nd way.
Thank you sir... Both of your installs are to code because of the pigtails, right down to the copper grounds, as in the 2nd demo, each outlet switch had it's own individual ground connection... I too prefer the 1st way it was done... Excellent tutorial & done to code, except for ( 1 ) minor detail, per the electric code manual for several years now, probably closer to ( 5 ) years actually, neutrals now go from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock position... Bill... :~)
Very nice video. I live in the DC world and always watch refreshers before completing AC home wiring projects. About to complete this in my garage. Thank you.
I agree with you on preferring the first method. Only GFCIs should be wired to supply downstream outlets. The primary reason outlets have 4 screws is so each outlet can be powered separately...i.e., have one outlet live and the other controlled by a wall light switch. You would snap the tabs off for that(before connecting any wires) Best to keep it uniform rather than try to redefine the function of an outlet.
I used to install electronic equipment in commercial buildings. We were installers not electricians. Electricians installed the building wiring and we just connected the AC wiring from the power panel to the equipment racks. Sometimes we were running power to consoles and couldn't use power strips as we usually did. So we ended up wiring dual duplexes into a 4 in square box. We did it the second way that you showed and it was always a pia. The jumper of the neutrals and hots was not a problem, but I am guessing that we did not makeup pigtails on the grounds. We probably had two grounds on one screw somewhere. I tried to study the code book where it governed the type of wiring we did. What I learned was how much I didn't know and we should have had a licensed electrician working with us to at least inspect our work. But this was in government facilities and they write their own rules.
The few times I wired up a shed, I did it the stupid way. (Second method.) You give a great presentation. So you got a new subscriber. Just think. I came for the Suscovich chicken tractor videos and ended up here. LOL I am going to mod my Suscovich very soon. You have great ideas there, too.
Exactly what I needed to know. Like that you showed "your" preffered method because I was taught the 2nd way you show but I'm really liking your way. So I basically pigtail the "main" wire and then attach the ground, neutral, and hot to each of the outlets? Basically like you are wiring each outlet as if it has it's own "main" line, except in this case it only has the one "main" coming in. Thanks
I ran into an issue with the 2nd outlet. The green test light is on but when I plug something in, it's not working. I know it has to be something I did, just cant figure out what I did wrong. It's just odd the green test light turns on but the outlet itself doesn't power anything. Maybe you might have an idea.
As a DIY, I have a question. I want to add one outlet on the opposite side of an inside wall that has no insulation to an existing outlet. Is a outlet box required if I am using Wago connectors? Thank you for you time and great videos
@@MountaineerOutdoors I appreciate your fast response and box it is, and also I found a great video on how to make pigtails to save box space…. Thank you for these great tutorials.
You can put up to 5 - 12 gauge wires under the wire nuts I'm pretty sure. So I'm thinking that I had wires under the wire nut I would have to go back and re-watch it... But yes if that were the case
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks that’s good way of doing it with the pig tails if you screw up the wire cut it short or nick it just do the pig tail over. thanks
Method 2 seems to use less space in the box. I'm doing a retrofit of two receptacles on opposite sides of a concrete wall and the box already there on one side is small.
Thank you for making this video. Wiring up some outlets in the garage and forgot how I had done this before. I'm assuming if the outlet that I'm putting in is in the middle the circuit, I just put the wire going out on the pigtails/wire nuts and out the box it goes.
i see something wrong, as per Study Books i have read, so you can say the books are wrong and you are correct??? the making [ HOOKS ] they should be Shepherd hooks with 75% of contact touching... the way you did it is not correct as per code ??? what are your thoughts on this???
Awesome video and finally found one that answered exactly what I wanted to know. I want to add another receptical to my outlet box its in the middle of the circuit and understand now how to do this. My question is I want to tie in a ceiling fan to the box. Do I just add wiring to the pig tail to connect the fan too? Thx I liked and subscribed, I will be checking out some more of your vids. Nice work..
First of all welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family and if you wire it up to the pig tail it will be hot all the time and will be able to be controlled by the pull chains. Thank you for watching and commenting ☺
This place I am working on down the wiret, about 12". strip a section long enough to make a loop around the terminal then the other end to the second outlet so the wire is 1 single strand connecting the 2 terrminals.
option b has more advantages and heres why 1. you do NOT need to pigtail the ground wire unless it's already short , put a horseshoe. shaped bend in it leaving a tail this way it can attach to both outlets. now for the benefits 1. less box fill ( important because more wires. is potential for more heat and more failures) 2. its cleaner due to less box fill. 3. never have to. deal with. wire nuts coming loose due to expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals and materials 4 a mechanical fastener such as a screw of torqued properly will be less prone to failure then twisting and capping the wires in the event of a failure it will shut. down everything. farther down the line and make the problem more obvious instead of potentially. being undetectable for some time while it continues to arch away see the trend here? yes both are. legal ways but one is safer
One "little" thing you forgot, (If your wiring is integrated and livewired) you didn't remind viewers to SHUT OFF the power first thing! ! ! We mustn't assume that novice DIYers know to start there, for first and foremost safety. Other than that, great video brother!
I agree that option 1 is preferable but option 2 also has advantages in that you eliminate two red wire nuts which makes the box less crowded. I also suggest applying tape over the exposed screws on the receptacles in order to help prevent the hot leg from contacting the bare ground wire. Thanks for the video.
I will not say you are wrong, because to each his own but I prefer the second way because I do not like all those wire nuts in the box, one is enough. And to me the second way is more streamlined.
I'm making a homemade power strip/extension cord with 2 sets of receptacles, and I'm probably going to use the 2nd method, myself, but even though this video was a bit too quick for me to follow, it might be of help...
@@MountaineerOutdoors thank you... I got it made, but it was harder than I expected, considering the cord I was using, came from an old power strip that had a good cable, and it was using stranded wire, which, I'm sure you can see the potential issues with that. I think some ring terminals would have been better, looking back on it, and I still might do that, honestly, as it would probably make it a little safer. I did use electrical tape to isolate the 2 individual plugins from any stray wires I might have in the future, so I wasn't a complete idiot, but I wonder if it would be good to use my idea of ring terminals, or perhaps use a couple of WAGO connectors, if and when I take it apart and redo the connections...
I'm working with GFCI outlets making what was one outlet into two. After watching your video I'm convinced that the wiring is right - assuming that a GFCI works basically the same as a regular outlet - but NOTHING is working. Apparently I've done something very wrong because not even my lights work any more. I used your method #1 and I'm wondering if it's something with the ground wire. Any ideas? I will say I used the holes on the back of the receptical instead of hooking on to the screws. I wonder if that would make a huge difference...
Honestly it sounds to me like you have the hot and nuetrals switched. The incoming hot has to be on the line side then the downstream has to be on the load side.
Hi, I’ve done exactly what you’ve done in the video. My question is , I want to come from the first receptacles, go left and right with two receptacles each side. How would I bring it to the other 4 receptacles, from the first two? I have a 20 amp breaker, using 12/2 with a ground, great video very informative Thank you
I have done this conversion based off your video but have four 14/3 lines in my outlet box. So I was curious would you consider 6 wires under a single wire nut (correct size of course ie ideal pro flex max range of 6 #14) just as secure/safe vs pigtails of two sets of three wires (four wires for each nut when including connecting pigtail wire). Which would you do in this scenario if you had to choose.
yes as long as when you put the wires under the wire nut and it looks secure when the joint is made up then yes.. sometimes when you make a joint and you step back you know that maybe you need to do something different. Thats my answer, does it answer your question.
I have some questions: 1.The pigtails are sold already cutted or are taken from the main cable? 2. How many outlets can run from the same braker? 3. In a workbench, I have a outlet box with a table saw and a shop vacuum plugged in, to work simultaneously. Can I add more boxes for more versatility even if is powered with a 12 gage extension cord? 4. Can I wire more outlets from the one my workbench is plugged?
1. you can buy pig tails but I just used scrap wire. 2.roughly 10 per code on a 20 amp circuit. 3. sounds to me like you have it maxed out already. if you are using both at the same time.or your real close. Id say your table saw is at least 10 amps and the shop vac is around 4-7 amps just guessing? 4. that depends on alot of variables.
@@MountaineerOutdoors no, not near ready lol. Still very busy cleanin after tornado hit. Lost a few buildings in the process. Trap shed was leveled also. Some traps still scattered. Fur shed ok. First tornado I ever been in. Winds were over 100 mph. Took 3 hours with the tractor and log chains just to pull limbs. I posted pics on fb.
@@ramoutdoors6415 oh my goodness... I had no idea I've been like a ghost on Facebook... I'll look now... That sucks man but glad you are ok, houses and other things can be replaced, lives can't. Going to check now
Do you count these pig tails in the box fill calculations? They seem to add up quick doing this way to filling the available volume count. I have read via google if the conductor doesn’t leave the box it doesn’t count towards it but not positive. But based on what you did there it would add 10 cubic inches off the bat if they do count.
Question. I have a double outlet. Each out has 2 blacks / 2 whites. Everything works but tester says open ground. Inside the wall box it seems like the electrician twisted the ground wire with a green nut to make one grounding wire. I think the wire was cut short or something. He sistered the two outlets together and only the right outlet is tied into the green grounded screw. Can I rabbit tail the right ground to the left outlet screw ground or is this against code?
Yes you can but If it were me, I would change the green wire nut to a red and twist two wires out from under it. 2 wires under one screw usually doesn't work too good. Hope that helps.
Question I have a switch/outlet receptacle in the bathroom when I switch off the light the power to out also goes out ...I have an idea why but how do I fix that issue ?
Would this process be the same if it was a 240v? Of course this would have 2 hots instead of the neutral. So that i can create a 4 gang (double receptacle) using NEMA 6_15p outlets.
@@MountaineerOutdoors it would be for items that require that outlet type. Basically running 20amp circuit through 12/2 wire to the 4 gang outlet which will support 4 items totaling 3200watts. they are all grouped together so the 4 gang just seemed easiest.
This depends on how many receptacles and other stuff is on the circuit already. My recommendation is to turn off the circuit and see how much stuff is off. Then make your decision then.
you can absolutely do that as far as pulling too much power you have to look at your device that you're using air compressor drill etc. They make a device you can plug into your outlet and then plug your drill air compressor whatever into that and should tell you the voltage and how many amps it is using hope that helps
Because I am not an electrician, but I do understand electricity, I'd be paranoid about the ground wire not having insulation and keeping it from contacting the the other two terminals on the receptacle. I agree, the first way looks like a better way to wire it.
I agree with that bare wire I hate it when I have to push wires back into a box when it's hot... I guess if they had to insulate it the price would go up.. Its all about saving some dough
I personally use insulated grounds to the outlet. And wrap electrical tape around the terminals. Yes a few pennies more and a a few seconds but worth the peace of mind.
Great video, how do I use a 20 amp 2 pole switch as a disconnect on a multiwire branch circuit, I'm using 12/3 uf up to junction box in shed,everything I've read says to add a disconnect ?Thanks
Technically a switch is a disconnect. You would just bring the 12-3 if it the side of the switch that says line that goes to 12-3 you brought in from the house. Then everything else goes on the load side. Curious though why don't you Just add a small sub panel instead? Anyway hope that answers your question
@@MountaineerOutdoors So if I'm coming into my shed with 12/3 from main panel I can go directly to my switch box, no junction box,wire my 20 amp light switch normally with one of the hot legs,to use on my light,then my other hot leg would run to my receptacles ,that would split the two circuits since I'm using the white as a shared neutral? Dont want the hassle of a subpanel, easy on the pocket, mainly wiring shed to put security outside lights and the biggest tool I use out there that I use once a year is a harbor freight $90 welder,that's the reason I'm running the 20 amp circuits. thank you for the response
@@adamluera2145 if it were me doing it this way I would put a box down low. Then come back out of that box and do Your wiring. One circuit for lights and the other for the receps. That's no problem. Imo.
Nit sure I got it. Did you not come in on top or bottom of one receptacle and put the other end to next receptacle like you would going along a wall with the same circuit.
What about if it is metal box? What do you call and the red thing you wrap the wires and what size is. I ask it because at home depot there are too many and I don't know which one to buy.
I was trying to do this with the jumper because that's how it was when I pulled the old receptacle out of the wall. I think I can do method 1 because I can't get the jumper to work for anything
Clear as mud. It's like watching someone explain juggling by watching him juggle. Why do you think you have to move so fast? You're not on the job and (presumably) you're not trying to prove anything. How about describing how to make neutral and hot pigtails (you explained the ground, but that's easy.
The "PIGTAIL" is not fully shown or explained. NEWBIE with virtually no wiring experience, like myself, needs to see the process step by step. The way MO is holding the wires in his hand, it is somewhat difficult to see that he is attaching 2 short pieces of wire to the incoming wires. MO uses PIGTAIL method to split the incoming wire [by attaching 2 shorter pieces of wire with the wire nut] so that he can then wire the 2 receptacles separately. MO chooses this method instead of installing jumper wires, because as a PROFESSIONAL he is used to doing pass-thru pigtail wiring from receptacle to the next and so on until the circuit terminates at a fixture or appliance. Having just watched another video with the jumper cable method, I would have to agree that the PIGTAIL method is more logical as the power supply is being split to the 2 receptacles as opposed to passing the power from one to the other.
Nothing that I know about that is wrong just be harder to change out if you need to replace it. Just make sure that it's hooked to the ground back to the panel.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question. Your video was easy to see, with the visible stud and no sheetrock. Well done.
very perfect video Sir! Made more sense to me than most I have watched. What would you recommend for me to run a switch from the house to my shed to turn on the shed's outside light?
not sure how big your shed is but at the least you would need a 12-3 if its not in conduit use 12-3 UF. However if your digging a ditch if it were me Id pull something out for future. good luck and if you need any more advice let me know
By code as long as you have at least two or more you can. Do I see a problem with it? No but it wouldn't hurt to put it on a 15 amp breaker or you can switch them out to a 20 amp.
You do NOT need to pretwist wires before putting a wirenut on. Manufacturer spec for majority of wirenuts states that its not required. I can guarantee you a shit ton of testing was done before slapping that instruction on the box. That being said, I pretwist because ive always done it and i find it easier to put the nut on instead of struggling with 2 or more individual wires. Nobody tells me what to do. Haha.
This article contains the requirements for identification of the grounded neutral conductor and its terminals. If you go back to Article 100, you will see that the grounded conductor isn’t the same as the grounding conductor. Make sure you clearly understand the difference between the two before you begin your study of Article 200. This article isn’t very long, and it’s not very complicated, and following these requirements can mean the difference between a safe installation and an electrocution hazard. The illustrations in the Understanding the NEC, Volume 1 textbook will help you form mental pictures of the key points. Grounded Conductor. Most electrical power supplies have one output terminal of the power supply bonded to the case of the power supply (system bonding jumper). The conductor that is connected to this grounded terminal is called a “grounded conductor.” Neutral Conductor. The IEEE dictionary defines a neutral conductor as the conductor with an equal potential difference between it and the other output conductors of a 3- or 4-wire system. Therefore, a neutral conductor is the white/gray wire of a 3-wire single-phase 120/240V system, or of a 4-wire three-phase 120/208V or 277/480V system. Since a neutral conductor must have equal potential between it and all ungrounded conductors in a 3- or 4-wire system, the white wire of a 2-wire circuit, and the white wire from a 4-wire three-phase 120/240V delta-connected system are not neutral conductors-they’re grounded conductors. Author’s Comment: The electrical trade industry typically uses the term “neutral,” when referring to the white/gray wire. However, the proper term for this conductor is “grounded conductor.” Technically, it’s improper to call a “grounded conductor” a “neutral conductor” or “neutral wire” when it’s not truly a neutral conductor,
@@MountaineerOutdoors I have to look up the basics on every electrical project and find your information helpful. Been shooting trap recently...and action pistol.
so it was kinda vague what I said. so there is alot of different reasons but main for me is if i had a problem with one of the receps I could take that recep out of the equation fix it and not mess up anything downstream like if it was a circuit full of computers and could turn off the circuit you can take that one off leaving everything on while fixing that problem
I can tell the guy knows what he is talking about but I couldn’t even get a chance to see the wiring scheme because it was always moving in his hand. Thanks for the video tho because I think I got the idea. One question tho for the second way. Why do you use the Side screws rather than push connector in the back for the black wire?
@@MountaineerOutdoors Wow I just did about three outlets in my sons room using the push in method. Thinking about going back and redoing them because of that video. Good points.
Yeah I am definitely not a fan of the push method. They should in my opinion not even put that option on the receps. If It were me I definitely would especially since it's only 3.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I ended up fixing them today ha. The only one I could not fix was my single pole outlet switch. Has two black wires going in and then the red wire. I used the screws when able but the second black wire had to be pushed in as there was no second screw for the black. Would that mean I should convert it to a double pole so I have 2 screws up top for the black?
@@MountaineerOutdoors this might sound a little complicated because I'm not an electrician. I had four sets of 14/2 wire coming into the box. The 2 sets had the whites tied together, the blacks tied together and the grounds tied togther. The other 2 sets of course had 2 whites 2 blacks and 2 grounds. I took the 2 whites and put them on the silver screws of the first outlet. Then I took the two blacks and I put those on the gold screws. I took all of the grounds and put them together. Then I took a white jumper and jumped it over from one silver screw on the first outlet to the silver screw on the second outlet. Then I took a black jumper and jumped that one from the gold screw on the first outlet over to the gold screw on the second outlet. After that everything worked perfect. I felt better after that. I have a friend that does electrical but to get her to come over to my house to do the work is like pulling teeth. Of course I pay her and that doesn't even work. I think it's because she's lazy after doing electrical all day long. That's why I resort to RUclips. It's free and you will most likely get the information you are looking for. I appreciate people like you and the videos you provide. Thank you and Happy New Year.
I have 1 question how come people put these sockets in metal boxes Or aluminum whatever you wanna call it. If 1 of the wires get loose wont it electrified the whole box
If you ground the box it will short out the circuit which will trip the breeker. Alot of people do it because they think it's better. For me that's old school and in a house it's a over kill and cost more. To each is own though. Commercial or industrial settings Definitely use metal boxes though.
I am adding two double outlet boxes into my garage and I am using a gfci outlet as my first outlet in the circuit. In order to protect the other outlets on that line, will I need to wire them up the method #2?
I’m rearranging my living room but where my entertainment stand sits there’s no outlet. But there is one like 3 ft away. I was going to run a new outlet off of that one behind my stand..but there is no room to add connect wiring. So I was wondering if I can pig tail and run new wire to new outlet
Gotcha, that depends on alot of things, how many receps are currently on it? Does it feed anything else? Is your current box deep enough to handle another set of wires (cubic inches). Without me being there I cannot say for sure.
There’s 5 being fed by the circuit. I’ve been researching and saw that it should be no more than 80% of the amp usage? The breaker is a 20 amp so 16 max should be fine?
Your correct. That's is exactly right. Each Recep is rated at 180va which got each plug it's 90 hence the duplex making each device 180 having said that you can safely assume that round about 10 receps on one breaker. Now to make sure that your box will handle the extra wires and your golden
I have watched many DIY videos on electrical work and you are by far the best teacher i've seen. You're patient , thorough , and answer questions i would ask. Great job.
Aww thanks I appreciate you kind words.. Thank you so much for watching and commenting ☺
My buddy and I just did this at a friends restaurant. He used 3 wires, jumped them together with the receptacle. He cut sheathing off in other center wire ran around screw then did pig tail on ground. I did it the amateur way and had 1 wire for every screw. Lol his way was so clean and easy to do. I love learning new things. Thank you for the video.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks to your great video I just updated my pool outlet from 2 to 4 gang. Followed your instructions, took my time, it’s now working. You saved me some money. Thanks
That's awesome glad that I could help you. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Great video.
It's a good idea to learn both ways.
With the 2nd method, the 1st receptacle with the line serves as passthrough for the 2nd receptacle (wiring in series). If one of them were GFCI and you wanted both receptacles to be protected, you would have no choice but to wire the 2nd way.
Thank you sir... Both of your installs are to code because of the pigtails, right down to the copper grounds, as in the 2nd demo, each outlet switch had it's own individual ground connection...
I too prefer the 1st way it was done...
Excellent tutorial & done to code, except for ( 1 ) minor detail, per the electric code manual for several years now, probably closer to ( 5 ) years actually, neutrals now go from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock position...
Bill... :~)
Nice. A clear video without a bunch of hesitation and random chit chat.
I appreciate that ☺
“Ground neutral hot” love it. Good vid.
Exactly ☺
Simple video, yet extremely informative!
Thank you so much!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Very nice video. I live in the DC world and always watch refreshers before completing AC home wiring projects. About to complete this in my garage. Thank you.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting I'm glad to hear this was helpful
Thank you so very much, I was thinking the 2nd way should work but I'm glad I watched your video so it's done correctly.
Glad this helped. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I agree with you on preferring the first method. Only GFCIs should be wired to supply downstream outlets.
The primary reason outlets have 4 screws is so each outlet can be powered separately...i.e., have one outlet live and the other controlled by a wall light switch. You would snap the tabs off for that(before connecting any wires)
Best to keep it uniform rather than try to redefine the function of an outlet.
agreed
Anyone else come away with the sense that he’s the Bob Ross of electrician tutorials?
😂 😂 😂 Now that's funny
I used to install electronic equipment in commercial buildings. We were installers not electricians. Electricians installed the building wiring and we just connected the AC wiring from the power panel to the equipment racks. Sometimes we were running power to consoles and couldn't use power strips as we usually did. So we ended up wiring dual duplexes into a 4 in square box. We did it the second way that you showed and it was always a pia. The jumper of the neutrals and hots was not a problem, but I am guessing that we did not makeup pigtails on the grounds. We probably had two grounds on one screw somewhere. I tried to study the code book where it governed the type of wiring we did. What I learned was how much I didn't know and we should have had a licensed electrician working with us to at least inspect our work. But this was in government facilities and they write their own rules.
The few times I wired up a shed, I did it the stupid way. (Second method.) You give a great presentation. So you got a new subscriber. Just think. I came for the Suscovich chicken tractor videos and ended up here. LOL I am going to mod my Suscovich very soon. You have great ideas there, too.
I appreciate your comment and watching and welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family. Have a great day ☺
Exactly what I needed to know. Like that you showed "your" preffered method because I was taught the 2nd way you show but I'm really liking your way. So I basically pigtail the "main" wire and then attach the ground, neutral, and hot to each of the outlets? Basically like you are wiring each outlet as if it has it's own "main" line, except in this case it only has the one "main" coming in. Thanks
That's awesome I like finding more than one way to do things as long as it is right. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
I ran into an issue with the 2nd outlet. The green test light is on but when I plug something in, it's not working. I know it has to be something I did, just cant figure out what I did wrong. It's just odd the green test light turns on but the outlet itself doesn't power anything. Maybe you might have an idea.
You have to make sure that your nuetral and hots are in the right places. Sounds to me like you you have them crossed
I ALWAYS DO IT AS YOU DID THE #1 ITS VERY CLEAN AND NICE
Definitely
Thank you…. Just what I needed!
Awesome glad that you found this then ☺
Nice demo, very informative, exactly what I needed to know, thanks marty
Glad I could help Have a great day and thanks for watching and commenting
My dad gota new shed built.. I'm gonna make a few single outlets into doubles for him.. this should work! Thx.
Awesome... Good luck on wiring it. Just take your time and you will be fine
Your good teacher thank you
Thank you I appreciate it 😊
Thank You,for this video.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thank you for making this video! 😎👍
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks for the video, sir.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
As a DIY, I have a question. I want to add one outlet on the opposite side of an inside wall that has no insulation to an existing outlet. Is a outlet box required if I am using Wago connectors? Thank you for you time and great videos
Absolutely it must be inside of a box. Good question. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
@@MountaineerOutdoors I appreciate your fast response and box it is, and also I found a great video on how to make pigtails to save box space…. Thank you for these great tutorials.
Always, gonna be alot more this upcoming year.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Looking forward to them ……. Have a great weekend
You as well. 😂 😂 Well I definitely did
Good helpful video! Greetings from Lexington VA 😀
Awesome we are close to each other. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
great help video. thank you.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Very good thanks Can you wire it the same way if you were continuing to more outlets and would one more wire fit in the wire nut
You can put up to 5 - 12 gauge wires under the wire nuts I'm pretty sure. So I'm thinking that I had wires under the wire nut I would have to go back and re-watch it... But yes if that were the case
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks that’s good way of doing it with the pig tails if you screw up the wire cut it short or nick it just do the pig tail over. thanks
Exactly.. I agree 110 %
Thought it was a shock at 8:50😯😯🤣
😂 Thanks for watching and commenting 😂
this is helpful when you have GFIC receptacles and not enough room on the box for all the double-wiring
10:30 This move establishes one box as the "master" & the other as a "slave" box if that makes sense.
Yep I didn't want to say that since so many people are but hurt over words these days
@@MountaineerOutdoors this is how it was said in class, Master and slave lol
😂 😂 Yeah I can't believe they are still saying that
Method 2 seems to use less space in the box. I'm doing a retrofit of two receptacles on opposite sides of a concrete wall and the box already there on one side is small.
Exactly my same situation. Method 1 with the added wires n pigtails won't fit in the box.
Method 2 is the only way i have wired receptacles for 40 years much cleaner and less joints to work loose.
Very good video ,thanks.
Thank you
Thank you sir for this video
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thank you for making this video. Wiring up some outlets in the garage and forgot how I had done this before. I'm assuming if the outlet that I'm putting in is in the middle the circuit, I just put the wire going out on the pigtails/wire nuts and out the box it goes.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
i see something wrong, as per Study Books i have read, so you can say the books are wrong and you are correct??? the making [ HOOKS ] they should be Shepherd hooks with 75% of contact touching... the way you did it is not correct as per code ??? what are your thoughts on this???
I have had discussion with many electricians and inspectors we all make them the same. Nothing wrong with it and the way you described is great too.
Your a natural great explanation ! I am not an electrician …. Very helpful Thanks.
I am glad that it helped. Thanks for watching.
just fur for an upper lip! that's a real mountain electrician
😂 😂 😂
Is it better to pigtail both? Or use a jumper from one to the outher
I prefer the pigtail
I'm with you I like the first one better.
I have a couple of switches like that but the gang box isn't big enough for the extra wire so sad.
Can you do the 2nd way with one receptacle in the box and the other receptacle downstream in another box?
Good Idea I'll make a note to do it. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks for the video! Making the pigtails are such a pain with #12 wires.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting
Do you have a video of this double gang at the beginning of the line instead the end
No I don't sorry
Where did you get the 2 grounds from in the second method? I’m having a problem because I don’t have the extra wire
I've been doing it the 2nd way for years and have never had issues with them 🤷🏻♂️ each their own
I agree. Thanks for sharing and watching. Have a great day ☺
Awesome video and finally found one that answered exactly what I wanted to know. I want to add another receptical to my outlet box its in the middle of the circuit and understand now how to do this. My question is I want to tie in a ceiling fan to the box. Do I just add wiring to the pig tail to connect the fan too?
Thx I liked and subscribed, I will be checking out some more of your vids. Nice work..
First of all welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family and if you wire it up to the pig tail it will be hot all the time and will be able to be controlled by the pull chains. Thank you for watching and commenting ☺
This place I am working on down the wiret, about 12". strip a section long enough to make a loop around the terminal then the other end to the second outlet so the wire is 1 single strand connecting the 2 terrminals.
so basically your saying that its just wrapped around the screw without any joints?
option b has more advantages and heres why 1. you do NOT need to pigtail the ground wire unless it's already short , put a horseshoe. shaped bend in it leaving a tail this way it can attach to both outlets. now for the benefits 1. less box fill ( important because more wires. is potential for more heat and more failures) 2. its cleaner due to less box fill. 3. never have to. deal with. wire nuts coming loose due to expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals and materials 4 a mechanical fastener such as a screw of torqued properly will be less prone to failure then twisting and capping the wires in the event of a failure it will shut. down everything. farther down the line and make the problem more obvious instead of potentially. being undetectable for some time while it continues to arch away see the trend here? yes both are. legal ways but one is safer
I appreciate this comment. Alot of thought went into that comment. And it is a great statement. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Hey I have a 4 wire connected to twist lock 4 prong 30amp and the other end is a double out box to 2 20 amp outlets how would you wire this
One "little" thing you forgot, (If your wiring is integrated and livewired) you didn't remind viewers to SHUT OFF the power first thing! ! ! We mustn't assume that novice DIYers know to start there, for first and foremost safety. Other than that, great video brother!
Noted I will remember that. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Can you put a switch to run a ceiling fan and an outlet together for method one thanks.
I agree that option 1 is preferable but option 2 also has advantages in that you eliminate two red wire nuts which makes the box less crowded. I also suggest applying tape over the exposed screws on the receptacles in order to help prevent the hot leg from contacting the bare ground wire. Thanks for the video.
Yeah taping the screws are s good idea I don't but It definitely doesn't hurt.
just gnna say this if you feel the need to tape around the outlet. you shouldnt be messing with electrical
Amen... So many people do it and I don't disagree but I just do not.
I will not say you are wrong, because to each his own but I prefer the second way because I do not like all those wire nuts in the box, one is enough. And to me the second way is more streamlined.
Thanks for the comment and watching. I can see exactly what you are saying. Have a great day ☺
I'm making a homemade power strip/extension cord with 2 sets of receptacles, and I'm probably going to use the 2nd method, myself, but even though this video was a bit too quick for me to follow, it might be of help...
Good luck just take your time.
@@MountaineerOutdoors thank you... I got it made, but it was harder than I expected, considering the cord I was using, came from an old power strip that had a good cable, and it was using stranded wire, which, I'm sure you can see the potential issues with that. I think some ring terminals would have been better, looking back on it, and I still might do that, honestly, as it would probably make it a little safer.
I did use electrical tape to isolate the 2 individual plugins from any stray wires I might have in the future, so I wasn't a complete idiot, but I wonder if it would be good to use my idea of ring terminals, or perhaps use a couple of WAGO connectors, if and when I take it apart and redo the connections...
Me personally I hate wagos. But the ring terminals on stranded wire that's a great idea or even fork terminals. Sounds like you did a great job.
I'm working with GFCI outlets making what was one outlet into two. After watching your video I'm convinced that the wiring is right - assuming that a GFCI works basically the same as a regular outlet - but NOTHING is working. Apparently I've done something very wrong because not even my lights work any more. I used your method #1 and I'm wondering if it's something with the ground wire. Any ideas? I will say I used the holes on the back of the receptical instead of hooking on to the screws. I wonder if that would make a huge difference...
Honestly it sounds to me like you have the hot and nuetrals switched. The incoming hot has to be on the line side then the downstream has to be on the load side.
Hi, I’ve done exactly what you’ve done in the video. My question is , I want to come from the first receptacles, go left and right with two receptacles each side. How would I bring it to the other 4 receptacles, from the first two? I have a 20 amp breaker, using 12/2 with a ground, great video very informative Thank you
basically in and out. Go in one box then back out id make pigtails in the boxes
@@MountaineerOutdoors Same as first box, just repeated. Thank you
I have done this conversion based off your video but have four 14/3 lines in my outlet box. So I was curious would you consider 6 wires under a single wire nut (correct size of course ie ideal pro flex max range of 6 #14) just as secure/safe vs pigtails of two sets of three wires (four wires for each nut when including connecting pigtail wire). Which would you do in this scenario if you had to choose.
yes as long as when you put the wires under the wire nut and it looks secure when the joint is made up then yes.. sometimes when you make a joint and you step back you know that maybe you need to do something different. Thats my answer, does it answer your question.
I wish I could find a video that shows how to wire more than two receptacles up in a chain.
Sounds like I need to make a video
ruclips.net/video/TOMSZRft2oE/видео.html this is the one I used for installing in my garage
It’s basically the same thing. Just add another pig tail from the second outlet. So you’ll have 3 conductors on one wing nut.
Hi mountaineer so the second way wouldn’t pass code right since you’re technically using one of the outlets as a pigtail ?
Yep I have never heard of it not passing.
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks
I have some questions:
1.The pigtails are sold already cutted or are taken from the main cable?
2. How many outlets can run from the same braker?
3. In a workbench, I have a outlet box with a table saw and a shop vacuum plugged in, to work simultaneously. Can I add more boxes for more versatility even if is powered with a 12 gage extension cord?
4. Can I wire more outlets from the one my workbench is plugged?
1. you can buy pig tails but I just used scrap wire.
2.roughly 10 per code on a 20 amp circuit.
3. sounds to me like you have it maxed out already. if you are using both at the same time.or your real close. Id say your table saw is at least 10 amps and the shop vac is around 4-7 amps just guessing?
4. that depends on alot of variables.
The video starts at 1:16
Please read most wire nut manufacturer's instructions warn against twisting wires.
Why?? I have never heard that please elaborate
Nicely done Mike and thumbs up brother! You know ur trade😉
Richard from Kansas;)
Thanks man I appreciate it... You about ready to hit the deer woods... It will be here before we know it
@@MountaineerOutdoors no, not near ready lol. Still very busy cleanin after tornado hit. Lost a few buildings in the process. Trap shed was leveled also. Some traps still scattered. Fur shed ok. First tornado I ever been in. Winds were over 100 mph. Took 3 hours with the tractor and log chains just to pull limbs. I posted pics on fb.
@@ramoutdoors6415 oh my goodness... I had no idea I've been like a ghost on Facebook... I'll look now... That sucks man but glad you are ok, houses and other things can be replaced, lives can't. Going to check now
Do you count these pig tails in the box fill calculations? They seem to add up quick doing this way to filling the available volume count. I have read via google if the conductor doesn’t leave the box it doesn’t count towards it but not positive. But based on what you did there it would add 10 cubic inches off the bat if they do count.
One element overlooked is that the DIY person must first ascertain that there is sufficient room in the box to do this with wire nuts.
Yep and next year there will be a video on this very topic. I already recorded it just waiting for it to be released in the line up.
Hello, can you do this if you are on putting in one outlet? As I have the additional wires
Yep
Question. I have a double outlet. Each out has 2 blacks / 2 whites. Everything works but tester says open ground. Inside the wall box it seems like the electrician twisted the ground wire with a green nut to make one grounding wire. I think the wire was cut short or something. He sistered the two outlets together and only the right outlet is tied into the green grounded screw. Can I rabbit tail the right ground to the left outlet screw ground or is this against code?
Yes you can but If it were me, I would change the green wire nut to a red and twist two wires out from under it. 2 wires under one screw usually doesn't work too good. Hope that helps.
Can you bring the hot ( from the breaker) thru the GFCI outlet to a light then to the switch if so how? Thank you.
Make joints in the box don't make the lights gfi protected
@@MountaineerOutdoors my shower light is gfi protected
Best demonstration I've seen yet. What gauge wire are you using on a 15amp 120v receptacle
Thank you I really appreciate it ☺. I personally like using 12 Guage wire no matter what. It cost more but it's just better
@@MountaineerOutdoors Very wise!
Thank you ☺
12 or 14
i have two GFCI receptacles to install in kitchen counter tops on a dedicated circuit. Can i use 12/2 or need 12/3?
Are you planning on one circuit?
@@MountaineerOutdoors yes .. its basement.. so 2 gfci enough..(Ontario Code)
Great video! Where can I find the diagram you used for the thumbnail?
Question I have a switch/outlet receptacle in the bathroom when I switch off the light the power to out also goes out ...I have an idea why but how do I fix that issue ?
I am currently working on a video on this very problem
Would this process be the same if it was a 240v? Of course this would have 2 hots instead of the neutral. So that i can create a 4 gang (double receptacle) using NEMA 6_15p outlets.
Yes but most of the time when someone pulls that kinda receptacle it's for one specific item. But in theory yes it's the exact same way.
@@MountaineerOutdoors it would be for items that require that outlet type. Basically running 20amp circuit through 12/2 wire to the 4 gang outlet which will support 4 items totaling 3200watts. they are all grouped together so the 4 gang just seemed easiest.
Subscribed
Thank you
Can I use existing wire in my attic to add double outlet then add another wire to add one more outlet?
This depends on how many receptacles and other stuff is on the circuit already. My recommendation is to turn off the circuit and see how much stuff is off. Then make your decision then.
Should i be able to do this with the single outlet in my garage? would that cause it to draw too much power? how can I check ?
you can absolutely do that as far as pulling too much power you have to look at your device that you're using air compressor drill etc. They make a device you can plug into your outlet and then plug your drill air compressor whatever into that and should tell you the voltage and how many amps it is using hope that helps
I want to intall a duplex receptacle on my cealling that way i can conect my tv from the cealing but dont know how to cennect the hot wire from 😅
Blindingly fast!
Look at all the less wire smashed into the box in method number 2.
Because I am not an electrician, but I do understand electricity, I'd be paranoid about the ground wire not having insulation and keeping it from contacting the the other two terminals on the receptacle. I agree, the first way looks like a better way to wire it.
I agree with that bare wire I hate it when I have to push wires back into a box when it's hot... I guess if they had to insulate it the price would go up.. Its all about saving some dough
Under normal operation, the ground wire carries no current. It is merely a safety path which is why it's bare copper in most applications.
I personally use insulated grounds to the outlet. And wrap electrical tape around the terminals. Yes a few pennies more and a a few seconds but worth the peace of mind.
That's right nothing wrong with that
Great video, how do I use a 20 amp 2 pole switch as a disconnect on a multiwire branch circuit, I'm using 12/3 uf up to junction box in shed,everything I've read says to add a disconnect ?Thanks
Technically a switch is a disconnect. You would just bring the 12-3 if it the side of the switch that says line that goes to 12-3 you brought in from the house. Then everything else goes on the load side. Curious though why don't you Just add a small sub panel instead? Anyway hope that answers your question
@@MountaineerOutdoors
So if I'm coming into my shed with 12/3 from main panel I can go directly to my switch box, no junction box,wire my 20 amp light switch normally with one of the hot legs,to use on my light,then my other hot leg would run to my receptacles ,that would split the two circuits since I'm using the white as a shared neutral? Dont want the hassle of a subpanel, easy on the pocket, mainly wiring shed to put security outside lights and the biggest tool I use out there that I use once a year is a harbor freight $90 welder,that's the reason I'm running the 20 amp circuits. thank you for the response
@@adamluera2145 if it were me doing it this way I would put a box down low. Then come back out of that box and do Your wiring. One circuit for lights and the other for the receps. That's no problem. Imo.
@@MountaineerOutdoors
Thank you
Do you have a video similar to this where the double sockets are not the end of the Run but the middle?
No but I will be working on it very soon
@@MountaineerOutdoors 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Nit sure I got it.
Did you not come in on top or bottom of one receptacle and put the other end to next receptacle like you would going along a wall with the same circuit.
What about if it is metal box? What do you call and the red thing you wrap the wires and what size is. I ask it because at home depot there are too many and I don't know which one to buy.
Are you referring to the wire nuts? And if it's a metal box you need to ground the metal box with a green ground screw
@@MountaineerOutdoors you join the wires and then you cover with the red thing.
@@MarioPerez-yi2tw they are wire nuts I prefer Buchanan B caps. Don't buy cheap wire nuts. Pay a little more for the good kind. Ideal make some too.
I was trying to do this with the jumper because that's how it was when I pulled the old receptacle out of the wall. I think I can do method 1 because I can't get the jumper to work for anything
great glad it helped...and you can I have faith in you. good luck and thanks for watching and commenting
Clear as mud. It's like watching someone explain juggling by watching him juggle. Why do you think you have to move so fast? You're not on the job and (presumably) you're not trying to prove anything. How about describing how to make neutral and hot pigtails (you explained the ground, but that's easy.
Ok noted. However, I didn't think that I was moving too fast. I'll definitely keep that in mind for upcoming videos.
The "PIGTAIL" is not fully shown or explained. NEWBIE with virtually no wiring experience, like myself, needs to see the process step by step. The way MO is holding the wires in his hand, it is somewhat difficult to see that he is attaching 2 short pieces of wire to the incoming wires. MO uses PIGTAIL method to split the incoming wire [by attaching 2 shorter pieces of wire with the wire nut] so that he can then wire the 2 receptacles separately. MO chooses this method instead of installing jumper wires, because as a PROFESSIONAL he is used to doing pass-thru pigtail wiring from receptacle to the next and so on until the circuit terminates at a fixture or appliance. Having just watched another video with the jumper cable method, I would have to agree that the PIGTAIL method is more logical as the power supply is being split to the 2 receptacles as opposed to passing the power from one to the other.
Exactly gonna do s video on making pigtails.
@@MountaineerOutdoors THANKS MT Outdoors !
My pleasure ☺
I connected my ground from green to green instead of coming off with a wire nut. Is that okay?
Do you mean you went from Recep to recep?
@@MountaineerOutdoors Yeah, the ground/ green on the first receptacle to the ground/ green on second receptacle.
Nothing that I know about that is wrong just be harder to change out if you need to replace it. Just make sure that it's hooked to the ground back to the panel.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question. Your video was easy to see, with the visible stud and no sheetrock.
Well done.
I appreciate it and you are welcome.
very perfect video Sir! Made more sense to me than most I have watched. What would you recommend for me to run a switch from the house to my shed to turn on the shed's outside light?
not sure how big your shed is but at the least you would need a 12-3 if its not in conduit use 12-3 UF. However if your digging a ditch if it were me Id pull something out for future. good luck and if you need any more advice let me know
What about the yellow? Let’s say I have two toasters (15 amp each)
Square d
Do I use a 30amp square d? Connected normally?
No
So glad I found your videos. My question for you is... Is it safe to put 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit with 12/2 wiring? Thank you
By code as long as you have at least two or more you can. Do I see a problem with it? No but it wouldn't hurt to put it on a 15 amp breaker or you can switch them out to a 20 amp.
You do NOT need to pretwist wires before putting a wirenut on. Manufacturer spec for majority of wirenuts states that its not required. I can guarantee you a shit ton of testing was done before slapping that instruction on the box. That being said, I pretwist because ive always done it and i find it easier to put the nut on instead of struggling with 2 or more individual wires. Nobody tells me what to do. Haha.
😂 😂 I hear ya 😂 😂 I agree it does say that but I don't trust it.
This article contains the requirements for identification of the grounded neutral conductor and its terminals. If you go back to Article
100, you will see that the grounded conductor isn’t the same as the grounding conductor. Make sure you clearly understand the
difference between the two before you begin your study of Article 200.
This article isn’t very long, and it’s not very complicated, and following these requirements can mean the difference between a safe
installation and an electrocution hazard. The illustrations in the Understanding the NEC, Volume 1 textbook will help you form mental
pictures of the key points.
Grounded Conductor. Most electrical power supplies have one output terminal of the power supply bonded to the case of the power
supply (system bonding jumper). The conductor that is connected to this grounded terminal is called a “grounded conductor.”
Neutral Conductor. The IEEE dictionary defines a neutral conductor as the conductor with an equal potential difference between it and
the other output conductors of a 3- or 4-wire system. Therefore, a neutral conductor is the white/gray wire of a 3-wire single-phase
120/240V system, or of a 4-wire three-phase 120/208V or 277/480V system.
Since a neutral conductor must have equal potential between it and all ungrounded conductors in a 3- or 4-wire system, the white wire
of a 2-wire circuit, and the white wire from a 4-wire three-phase 120/240V delta-connected system are not neutral conductors-they’re
grounded conductors.
Author’s Comment: The electrical trade industry typically uses the term “neutral,” when referring to the white/gray wire. However, the proper
term for this conductor is “grounded conductor.”
Technically, it’s improper to call a “grounded conductor” a “neutral conductor” or “neutral wire” when it’s not truly a neutral conductor,
I wish I had your electrical knowledge.
Years of experience... But very easy to learn. I appreciate you watching and commenting.. Have you been shooting much?
@@MountaineerOutdoors I have to look up the basics on every electrical project and find your information helpful. Been shooting trap recently...and action pistol.
You went through all the trouble to show option two without actually. Showing the path
I thought it was on there?
So your reason for not liking method 2 is if you have a problem later you have 2 less screws to check. Did I understand you correctly?
so it was kinda vague what I said. so there is alot of different reasons but main for me is if i had a problem with one of the receps I could take that recep out of the equation fix it and not mess up anything downstream like if it was a circuit full of computers and could turn off the circuit you can take that one off leaving everything on while fixing that problem
I can tell the guy knows what he is talking about but I couldn’t even get a chance to see the wiring scheme because it was always moving in his hand. Thanks for the video tho because I think I got the idea.
One question tho for the second way. Why do you use the Side screws rather than push connector in the back for the black wire?
This video is the reason why I do not stab in the back. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺ ruclips.net/video/UJ4UvQ7VAig/видео.html
@@MountaineerOutdoors Wow I just did about three outlets in my sons room using the push in method. Thinking about going back and redoing them because of that video. Good points.
Yeah I am definitely not a fan of the push method. They should in my opinion not even put that option on the receps. If It were me I definitely would especially since it's only 3.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I ended up fixing them today ha. The only one I could not fix was my single pole outlet switch. Has two black wires going in and then the red wire. I used the screws when able but the second black wire had to be pushed in as there was no second screw for the black. Would that mean I should convert it to a double pole so I have 2 screws up top for the black?
@@shaun9209 *three way switch not double pole.
Mine isn't the end of the line and I have 3 sets of 14/2 in the box. 2 receptacles. Can't figure it out.
sounds to me like you need to make all 3 of them together then run two pig tails off them to you receptacle. Thats what I would suggest.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I Figured it out. Thanks for the rapid reply. Happy New year
@@NYCBugkiller great, what did you end up doing?
@@MountaineerOutdoors this might sound a little complicated because I'm not an electrician. I had four sets of 14/2 wire coming into the box. The 2 sets had the whites tied together, the blacks tied together and the grounds tied togther. The other 2 sets of course had 2 whites 2 blacks and 2 grounds. I took the 2 whites and put them on the silver screws of the first outlet. Then I took the two blacks and I put those on the gold screws. I took all of the grounds and put them together. Then I took a white jumper and jumped it over from one silver screw on the first outlet to the silver screw on the second outlet. Then I took a black jumper and jumped that one from the gold screw on the first outlet over to the gold screw on the second outlet. After that everything worked perfect. I felt better after that. I have a friend that does electrical but to get her to come over to my house to do the work is like pulling teeth. Of course I pay her and that doesn't even work. I think it's because she's lazy after doing electrical all day long. That's why I resort to RUclips. It's free and you will most likely get the information you are looking for. I appreciate people like you and the videos you provide. Thank you and Happy New Year.
I got one in and one out. No pigtails kinda like the second method. Works but I think I'll go redo it with pigtails.
I have 1 question how come people put these sockets in metal boxes Or aluminum whatever you wanna call it. If 1 of the wires get loose wont it electrified the whole box
If you ground the box it will short out the circuit which will trip the breeker. Alot of people do it because they think it's better. For me that's old school and in a house it's a over kill and cost more. To each is own though. Commercial or industrial settings Definitely use metal boxes though.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Thank you so much for explaining that to me.
My pleasure ☺
I am adding two double outlet boxes into my garage and I am using a gfci outlet as my first outlet in the circuit. In order to protect the other outlets on that line, will I need to wire them up the method #2?
ruclips.net/video/Fe9hwE8dN_k/видео.html. This should explain everything you need to do. Let me know if you have any other questions
If my receptacle is full..can I add another outlet to it?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean?
I’m rearranging my living room but where my entertainment stand sits there’s no outlet. But there is one like 3 ft away. I was going to run a new outlet off of that one behind my stand..but there is no room to add connect wiring. So I was wondering if I can pig tail and run new wire to new outlet
Gotcha, that depends on alot of things, how many receps are currently on it? Does it feed anything else? Is your current box deep enough to handle another set of wires (cubic inches). Without me being there I cannot say for sure.
There’s 5 being fed by the circuit. I’ve been researching and saw that it should be no more than 80% of the amp usage? The breaker is a 20 amp so 16 max should be fine?
Your correct. That's is exactly right. Each Recep is rated at 180va which got each plug it's 90 hence the duplex making each device 180 having said that you can safely assume that round about 10 receps on one breaker. Now to make sure that your box will handle the extra wires and your golden
Ok