Festool TS 55 Track Saw Review (Watch Before you Buy!!)
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- Reviewing and looking at all the features of the TS-55 Track Saw. Track saws are very Handy tools from Framing to woodworking they can do a lot of different tasks. If you work with large slabs a track saw is one of the tools to have!!
Note: On the track Connector I forgot to put the other connector on the bottom which would prevent the track from opening up. I haven't used the track connector in over 10 years, when I did use it I found it to be less accurate then I desired and purchased longer single tracks. 
Хобби
*Great saw **MyBest.Tools** and track for the price can't beat it although the blade could be better but easily switched out.*
Good video, just some comments.
1. The first time you cut with the saw, you are cutting into the little plastic edge of the track, and it gives you a perfect guide for where all your future cuts will be. The plastic edge which sits perfectly on your track will sit there for a long time if you take care of it. The one you show in the video is not cut all the way through, all of the length of the track. And that will ofc get caught in things since it sticks out further than the rest of the plastic. And ofc that will make it come loose. I have been using tracks for many years and I have yet not had any problems with the accuracy or that it become loose after some time.
2. But as mentioned before, use both connectors if you want to extend your track. In the Video you only use the one on the top t-rail, the one of the bottom also have a t-track where you put another connector for perfect secured tracks. As straight as a full length track, if you secure them right.
3. If you wanna do rip-cutting, it’s just as good at the circle saw if you use the right blade for it. If you are ripping, use a blade with fewer teeth and it cuts like anything else.
4. There is so many good attachments and extras that you can put on and add to the track and the saw for special cuts, and for perfect angles and so on.
5. There is also one exactly the same saw, but with battery.
6. Use the vacuum! Had an old teacher who died from sawdust in the lungs.... not a fun way to end your life at 50, coughing to death.
Stay safe and God bless!
Greetings from Sweden
Jesus this guy can gargle some festool balls.
@Brecken Kase OMG yeah so interested.
Good point thanks for the tips! I might just purchase one.. thanks for the #1 insight..people never talk about that!
#6 - Yeah that's pretty scary
I find your reviews are the best and to the point as you show how accurate are the machines and how to go about even calibrating. Please do the review on Milwaukee’s new 12 inch cordless miter saw. Thank you please keep it up.
Good video. Very helpful. Thanks
Great review, cheers!
Oops. You would have liked joining the tracks if you used two guide-rail connectors! Stiff as hell, and deadly straight if you use a straightedge before tightening... I do it all the time and it works great.
So- outside of the connector snafu, you should always point out that the 48 tooth blade is intended for plywood and crosscutting of solid lumber. When ripping you should switch to a rip blade, which has larger gullets. Festool's rip blades allow ripping quite easily.
I use the 48 tooth blade for plywood, melamine coated sheet etc., not generally on solid wood. The 28 tooth blade gives just as good a finish for ripping or crosscutting solid timber, and for fast ripping the 12 tooth blade is best. I would never use the 48 tooth blade for ripping.
I use mine on every job I do (I do Garden Rooms) almost daily for the past 3 years and it performs just as good as the day I bought it, i am extremely happy with it but like any good tool its only as good as the person using it. My friction strips have never been replaced and I do not have any issues with them. One thing that I do is I change the blade to Makitas 1.5mm thick 24 tooth blade especially when ripping long lengths of timber with the grain to take load of the saw and it just glides through it. Festool is expensive and I will not buy everything Festool I don't think its worth it to be honest But this saw is in my opinion
Very good video, great details and testing! Thanks a lot!
Thanks!!😁👍🏻
@@thebuilditchannel8609 😊 BTW, I just bought the Bosch Pro one 😅
Good review. Considering the premium price those track connectors should be way better
While I'm not a fan of the track connection system Festool uses (versus Bosch/Mafell for instance), if you employ a second connecting bar on the underside of the track you'll find the tracks don't move as seen here.
Space the tracks out ever so slightly when aligning the tracks together. I agree with you joining the tracks is not great, unless you get two perfectly extruded tracks. Which is nearly impossible.
The only festool product worth the money, and no longer a luxury, it’s a necessity now by far and away the most precise and accurate plunge saw on the market , but that’s just my opinion
Agree totally except, dependent on what you do, I'd add the Domino to the list.
The marital is just as accurate and stronger built
@@late0404 never heard of it , can’t find it on google either , is that the right spelling ?
@@alunmorgan7869 that was supposed to say makita
@@late0404 Oh right , I suppose it’s what you get used to
Great video...thanks!
Top Work Gent 🤟🏻🤟🏻
Great review.
Thanks!!😁
Good review.
Helpfull info
Thanks
Great video.
I have a love hate relationship with my Festool track saw. It's great for making straight cuts. But it lacks power and I find plunge cutting to be somewhat dangerous.
The good:
1. This saw cuts a straight line when used with the track.
2. When used with a vacuum, Most of the dust is collected.
3. Higley adjustable and easy blade change.
The bad:
1. I wish this track saw had a lot more power. It is pretty gutless. Very annoying when trying to cut any speed but slow.
2 Not very good when plunging into wood, the blade catches the wood and pulls the saw down while pushing the saw backwards violently. I do not recommend using this saw for plunge cutting.
The first time I used this Festool track saw I did not have the track extended far enough to get the saw blade all the way down before touching the wood. I was holding the saw with a moderate grip. When the saw blade contacted the wood the saw moved back and down instantly as the saw teeth tore into the wood. The saw was jerked out of my hand and fell on the floor breaking the plastic hose attachment port.
I do not use this saw for plunge cutting because its dangerous. I always plunge completely before starting the cut. I wish I could lock the blade down like a normal skill saw and not have to worry about plunging the saw before every cut.
Just swapped to Mafell after many years with the Festool.. the Festool is great and I would not knock it but the Mafell is super smooth and feels a lot more premium
Just curious if the tracks are compatible, I have the TS75 but like the mafell router. It'd be nice if they played well together!
what kind of blade was used for festool rip cutting where it failed? I do not have this issue with a ripping blade from bosch.
I’m on my second festool ts55req. Which is now sitting in my van doing nothing. The Bosch is better! The mafell is the best! I only use the mafell now. It’s more expensive (in the uk at least) then festool but way better. If price is the issue get a Bosch! The most annoying feature is the over heat protection. It will cut up the saw till it cools and once the saw is ho will keep cutting out. I’ve nearly launched the fucker a couple of times now. It’s also gutless at 1200 watts. Mafell has done this to me at all. A great machine with a better rail system!
It is not a 6"5/16 blade, it is a 160mm blade, are there any places you can buy Festool 6" 5/16 blades?
There are supposed to be two connectors, one on top and one on the bottom
In EU there r 2 connectors on the bottom. But u can best look for connectors from Triton i think. They r made from 2 pcs steel so the screws are pushing the another strip to the alumonium so the surface that push IT to the aluminium rail is bigger than the 4 screws.
I need to replace my 11 years old TS55. Arbor got slight bent after few kickbacks when I hit some staples in cutting material. My old one can cut max 1 15/16" deep. Can someone confirm if new TS can cut full 2" in one pass. TIA
Edit
full 2" including track.
the info specs Im getting online is confusing. Some say w/o track, some say including track
Thank you for this video, very helpful, too bad this saw doesn’t cut through 1 1/2 inch board in 45 degree angle , thanks again
The TS 75 does. It’s an over 8” blade and larger motor.
The loud pop at 1:11 made me jump up and check my security cameras, since my shop is not exactly in the best part of town :)
Good Information about the Saw real Real Review not Promotion Samen other Channels
Best video ever ?? Not at all, but great job.
I only have a 55" track., plus the clamps and the 55 saw.
I'd like to see a demo to "true-up" a 2" or '4" piece of 3/4" thick hardwood, usually done on a tablesaw or a joiner table. (my wood has one good edge, the other edge is unfinished, aka "rough cut'.)
Let's say... one edge is already "true'.
The large track is too wide for my thin wood piece underneath it. Yes, I could create a second wood piece as a track stabilizer or table, but what a hassle. Is there a better way ?
Here's my thoughts as a solution.....(but obviously interested in other ideas.)
Since my final desired wood dimensions are about 3.5" wide x 36" inch Long x 0.75" thick..... why don't I cut the length first ??
....Then build a temporary jig to have the TS 55 saw to "true-up" each piece.?? (this way I will have an easy jig that's just over 36", compared to a weird jig that is over 12 foot long..)
Keep in mind the original raw board I'm working with is 12 feet long x 4 inches, and 0.75" thick unsanded....... rare hardwood., where incorrect cuts are not tolerated.
Here is the caveman description.....
I have a 4 inch board 12 feet long, with one good edge.
I want to trim it to 3.5 inch.
I have a Festool 55 tracksaw..
How do I do it ?
One of my favorite tricks is to put sandpaper on any cutting jigs.
Like if I make a custom tablesaw crosscut jig, ...... sandpaper helps make it accurate, and stay in place.
Would like to know how it compares to other brand plunge saws, festool always seems massively overpriced!
Festool has hefty prices, but also excellent quality tools. Their main selling point is their ecosystem though, so if you don't wanna buy into that you can probably go with a cheaper tool.
Best saw I’ve ever owned, used daily for several years. Great system! Although Festool don’t make the best of everything.
I bought my festool saw in 2012, it works fine today
Thanx …. Good stuff
😁👍🏻
TS-75 is just a better saw! Extra depth for 45 angle cut, better motor. TS-55 better for jobsite, TS-75 heavier, but for use in a shop, it's the way I'm going.
After watching the breakdown of the festool track saw by AvE I can’t seem to figure out the reason for the price tag.
Are there any competitors that do this? I need a saw that is precise and the track is extremely useful for me. But if there’s a good competitor I might go with it.
@@johnd9357 I went with the cordless makita track saw. Got the kit on sale with two rails. I really like it so far.
Have you compared the makita track saw?
I have used it but not done a full comparison.
no one gonna fight to be first? Alright, I'll take the spot
The cut is not "good" or "decent." It is outstanding. NO circ marks at ALL. Not going completely thru the material when cutting a 45 thru 1 1/2" material is not a biggy with this saw as this saw is really not FOR that. Funny thing is they make a saw that IS for that and check it: That saw will not EITHER. lol The 0-clearance strip doesn't come loose on the ends "over time." It starts coming loose almost right off. Drives me NUTS. They DO make longer tracks. You are not stuck joining two shorter ones which, to me, well.....no. Those wonky connectors don't make for an exact straight overall length and it gets worse with repeated connecting/disconnecting. GREAT saw.
Damn thats a nice tool!
....thats what she said...
If you have a table saw why do you really need this? I get it if you don't have a shop but the guys at Woodcraft 10th through saws out like they are God's greatest gift. I'll stick to my table saw and cross slide.
One point…if you change to a different blade it may not line up with your splinter guard.If the new blade is narrower it will trim the splinter guard creating a new reference point.
German products are great. Bosch, Festool, Mafell, Fein. Products too expensive? Never heard of service? The service is great
Anybody think the Makita DSP600 is as good as the Festool or is it worth spending the extra to buy the Festool........?
Very nice saw ... such a shame motor gets fried up easily! Stay away from f it if you plan to do serios work! The makita motor is bulletproof
Watch Ave’s tear down video and you will not want to buy this saw, way under engineered for $1000 have a look at other track saws I’m no expert tho, just some insight
Wrong blade for ripping need the 28 tooth blade
Mafell is the best ,more grunt than the festool
Looks like it's made almost entirely of plastic.
I’m just going to throw out that you did not correct the rail sections properly. Perhaps that is why you are having issues.
Kolikrát ještě budu muset poslouchat jedny a ty samé informace ??
@@thebuilditchannel8609
,,how many times will I listen to one and the same information,,
;) h.n.day..
@@filipcieslar the West world is a free world. You don't want to listen to the same info more than once, you don't come and don't play it.
DEWALT