@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack. Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
I have the bardwell f7 and I’m using Steele v3 2345kv motors for 5 inch, what 4in1 esc should I use? I was looking at the XROTOR 32bit, bardwell 4in1 (I question this one because it’s 30amps and was built for the f4), the succex 50 amp and aikon ak32. Which would be best?
Just one contradictory statement in there about the motor screws. They include motor screws with the frame which was your recommendation. But then you say that you don't think that frame manufacturers should include motor screws. I know that was not what you meant but that could be confusing to someone new. 15:24.
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
Im a noob on the drone world, I Like your video, just a question is it possible to have a GPS link on these? I'm not into racing just I want to build a one...
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
Where can i get your awesome red electrical tape? 😆 My tape does feel a little bit darker redish 😂😅 Electrical tape for the win! I even slap a gps unit on the arm of the Kwad with it 😂😂🤣
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
I ordered the switchback and in the description is mentioned 30x30 stack also fits, isn’t this a better option than the small 20x20 small fett boards, in Europe those 20x20 boards that hangover are hard to come by. Who can give me some advise. Als the 533 motors are tuff to get, looking for a replacement, was thinking about t-motors.
I got aquestion, after 40 minutes lol. Where is the battery protection pad at the bottom of that pro frame? Dont get it how that could have been overlooked. Or was it?
Adding capacitor is so confusing. I have seen people connecting negative of capacitor to positive side but JB is doing the opposite. What is the correct way to do it?
Awesome build, this frame is built like a flippin tank. I would be a little concerned about the ESC wires running directly over the gyro. Not twisting them and running them underneath the FC might be better. Also, the amount of solder for the motor and battery leads is a little excessive. Less is actually better, electricly and mechanicly. I, too, used to leave some slack in the motor wires but ended up never using it (I'm using race wire) so I switched to cutting them short.
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
I’ve been thinking about building a racing rig to try out some racing. But I just switched to digital. So I don’t know if I can just run the av adapter on my Dji goggles or if I should buy a analog set. I knew I should have kept my damn fat sharks.
Please! Watch the beginning of this video (ruclips.net/video/WMDED6j1-Ic/видео.html) to see two important changes you should make in this build.
@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
I learned something today, but wasn't informed that I will.
You was actually.. subconsciously.. :) It´s on the wall behind him :P
GOLD! Acronyms do not express how much I laughed out loud!
lmao
True
I saw you in my dream. We were flying together and you taught me a lot of things. Well it might be the effect of me watching your videos all day.
No one gaf
Np
@@hammz07someone woke on the wrong side of the bed ain’t it?
I'm Early. Hi Joshua Sir (if you are reading this)! You really are a great teacher!
🤮
🤐.. There's people that believe his head and ego may explode if we encourage him.
Tread lightly here. 😁
@@MadDragon75 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
what a simp
pathetic
@@williamd2469 says people with "0" subscribers.
Awesome video, and Thankyou for the support! Can’t wait to see you out on the track!
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Don’t know that
You should come back to Georgia Tech for some racing! We just recently got approved to host races in the Burger Bowl!
Yep, we are going to host a freedom spec qualifier and some multigp racing 🔥
That would be awesome!
Nice !
I (attempt) freestyle with a little racing drone.
We do as please.
How do I find more info on this? I live in the area and would love to come spectate when it happens.
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
the red tape rage is real. you are triggering my OCD. thank you JB.
I love watching a master at work
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack.
Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
What's the weight of this build??? This looks sub 250g without a massive battery.
Is that right?
Yeah, that would be interesting to know, and maybe what the weight difference is.
This is 300g without a battery and around 150 to 500g with a battery.
@@JoshuaBardwell Wow!
It must be a beast!
17:10 is why i bought a 5 pack of those pens. soooo convenient!
Which arm version did you use? SFG, Lite or Longback?
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
why do i feel like you're always speaking directly to me?!! lol good stuuf as usual
When will you do your perfect freestyle build?
4:16 Yes, but does it come with red electrical tape??? :)
I just bought some parts from Evan last weekend and built one myself. I love the switchback config... and bruh, those motors are some beasts!!
What is the dry weight (quad without lipo and hd cam)? Also, what mah to choose if you go for 4s lipos?
Just under 300g dry. I suggest 1300 mAh 4S if you go that direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
3:30 the rigs AUW is no less than 460g with a 3s battery on board.
Simply the best intron on the channel ever 😄
LOL.. Love the start of the vid JB 😁👍
Am I gonna learn something today, Joshua??
Nope!
I have learnd something today..!
EVERY day buddy. Every day.
Great build man I like the way you troubleshoot on camera instead of some how magically everything goes perfect like most build videos lol
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
Yes for sure.
you might of said it in the video but what arms did you get the SFG, lite or longback?
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
The connectors are keyed so you can't plug them in backwards.
Thx for the info. I had to had cheaper ones couse mine did not have those keys :)
what propellers do you recommend for this build tho ???????????? and what battery
Hey Joshua
I also want to build a Racing Quad, with the Switchback... But don't know if I should go for the F60 or the motors you used...
Is that a fluxcapacatator as in the Delorean(BACK TO THE FUTURE) but for your droanelorean
Great video👍 I always learn something today😉😄
@ 1:24 i thought your esc was vertical i was so confused..
Haha good one , 4 years later and still learning from you bro.. I’m building this one as I am the slowest pilot In Redding California.
Hello from Chico!
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
I saw you cut that Ghost antenna mount...😳😳😳😳😯😯😯🇬🇧..... Where's my Fridge scene..?...lol..
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
I have the bardwell f7 and I’m using Steele v3 2345kv motors for 5 inch, what 4in1 esc should I use? I was looking at the XROTOR 32bit, bardwell 4in1 (I question this one because it’s 30amps and was built for the f4), the succex 50 amp and aikon ak32. Which would be best?
Just one contradictory statement in there about the motor screws. They include motor screws with the frame which was your recommendation. But then you say that you don't think that frame manufacturers should include motor screws. I know that was not what you meant but that could be confusing to someone new. 15:24.
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
how do you program the esc easily and I am wondering if you could just use any programs such as the flightOne
so happy to see this video. great job!
Jeez JB! Great close up video.
also can i use all of the drone in the video but on a HGLRC Veyron25CR 2.5" Cinewhoop frame kit
So how did you get a Redux Air Redux32 ESC? Those along with the HeadsUp motors have been out of stock.
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
I'ved learned something today! Great video JB.
Ghost hybrid video soon!! Thumbs up for that!
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
That's what I did JUST JUMP IN THE WATER IS GREAT!!!
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
I learned about flux back when i started building drag slot car chassis...flux is an amazing chemical!
Oh! and every day I learn somethingS...right on this channel.
Just buy a set of round leatherworking punches to make holes for screw access in battery pads, it’s such an easy solution :)
Im a noob on the drone world, I Like your video, just a question is it possible to have a GPS link on these? I'm not into racing just I want to build a one...
0:11 Where can we buy these “Free-Strile-Drones” I want one!😉
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
It's keyed. You don't plug it in the wrong way. The motor always spins the right direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell oh ok thank u for letting me know.
i got a question. im making a 4S Quad built. what CAP. do i need for the XT60? (And how do i need to mount it?)
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
AIO have reduced durability.
I know the Latency is at question, but what about doing this is a DJI digital quad using a Vista setup?
Nothing like a perfect fit. Files are nice for superior frames
How do you avoid that solder creep. I t happens to me with XT60 leads where it goes about 1/2" or so. It's so annoying.
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
These build videos are great! Thank you for sharing!
27:27 installs the ESC wire exactly on top of the gyro... ohooh
Josh, could you use a paper hole punch through the battery pad to maintain the ability to access those lower frame screws?
Where can i get your awesome red electrical tape? 😆 My tape does feel a little bit darker redish 😂😅 Electrical tape for the win! I even slap a gps unit on the arm of the Kwad with it 😂😂🤣
Hiya Joshua I'm building the five 33 switchback pro which arms are best to use sfg or lite and what recommended props
I used the sfg, but I didn't use the side plates. The best props are the heads up FPV r38. That's the props that Evan uses.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks you Joshua
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
Hi! what is the weight of this drone?
I prob missed it, but what is the dry weight and AUW?
Dry 280g. So about 480 with a 1000 mAh 6S but perhaps as low as 460 if you have a lighter battery.
Will the jumper t lite bind with the inductrix fpv +
Where is the link to buy the motors? Didn’t even catch their designation
Buy the Five33 Switchback and Motors at:
* Five33 (USA) - flyfive33.com
* Five33 (EU) - flyfive33.eu/
Maybe cut two holes in the umagrip with a craft knife so you can get to the screws in center?
Hey JB do you have any replacement for the ghost hybrid? its offsale
Josh, why did ghost wire up to the tx pad and not rx pad? and if so, why not use the t3 that was part of the video pads on the fc?
Umm. Yeah. That would have been really smart actually. T3 is intended for SmartAudio but I'm not using that. Umm. Yeah. Good point.
@@JoshuaBardwell lol. To the first point though, does the ghst protocol use a tx pad, or is that just when it's using srxl2
I ordered the switchback and in the description is mentioned 30x30 stack also fits, isn’t this a better option than the small 20x20 small fett boards, in Europe those 20x20 boards that hangover are hard to come by. Who can give me some advise. Als the 533 motors are tuff to get, looking for a replacement, was thinking about t-motors.
30mm ESC definitely will be more durable than 20mm. If you can't source one if the few reliable 20mm ESC's then I would go 30mm.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks for your reply Josh! 30 it is!
I got aquestion, after 40 minutes lol. Where is the battery protection pad at the bottom of that pro frame? Dont get it how that could have been overlooked. Or was it?
It is Ummagrip that I installed myself.
Love how you troll the trolls! I say use the red tape in more areas!
I was wondering what was up with all those race gates.
Hey Josh, cool video, as always! Make small cut-outs in the battery pad to make the scews accessible! ;-)
If i use spacers. Can there fit a caddex vista in the drone?
Yes. You would also need custom camera mounts. Also you might need the Nebula Nano since it is sized for a Nano can.
So... Is it me or does there seem to be no information on the amp draw on cameras and tx? (in my case the predator nano and the hybrid ghost)
are the frame arms sfg arms, lite arms or longback?? I want to buy that frame but I don´t know the kind of arms. Somebody pls tell me. Thankssss
yeah I have always used liquid flux. People either never use it or use plumbers flux. it drives me nuts!
that hole in the mid plate you used for the capacitor zip tie is for that reason exactly!
Thinking about doing a racing build and checked the link for the ESC and it’s sold out.
Any good alternative ESC’s to replace the Redux?
www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-five-inch-racing/
What’s the dry weight for this build?
Adding capacitor is so confusing. I have seen people connecting negative of capacitor to positive side but JB is doing the opposite. What is the correct way to do it?
Twisting the motor wires may help reduce EMF radiation. A ferrite ring over them will help further.
The intro had me laughing out loud.😂
What’s the file name for the ghost antenna holder? I can’t seem to find it on Thingiverse
Soft mounted a cap brilliant
I was wondering what build you would be using at the race. Got my answer and a build video. Sweet. 💖🤓
Awesome build, this frame is built like a flippin tank. I would be a little concerned about the ESC wires running directly over the gyro. Not twisting them and running them underneath the FC might be better. Also, the amount of solder for the motor and battery leads is a little excessive. Less is actually better, electricly and mechanicly. I, too, used to leave some slack in the motor wires but ended up never using it (I'm using race wire) so I switched to cutting them short.
Haha, Snorkl from the past was right for once. ruclips.net/video/CUZmU6lDy1s/видео.html
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
Nice build Joshua, thx for sharing it! how about the weight of the drone, could you please tell us? thx!
Hi Joshua , wanted to ask, maybe in what video will you show how to make something from RushFpv electronic !? Lots of people used this electronic.
That MR-30 is pretty big. Would there be a smaller option?
2mm gold connectors. Basically the same but without the plastic.
Where’s the link to the aikon v3?
I’ve been thinking about building a racing rig to try out some racing. But I just switched to digital. So I don’t know if I can just run the av adapter on my Dji goggles or if I should buy a analog set. I knew I should have kept my damn fat sharks.