@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack. Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
so cool that u building a drone and im going to watch lol thank u. my firts kwad i build it because of ur videos the second i bouth it the sedora and now i own more or less between ten and eleven kwads thanks to u.
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
I'd cut the gummy to the shape of the base plate and drill apertures so I can see the screws with paint or thin cut tape to see if the screws are walking out.
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
Just one contradictory statement in there about the motor screws. They include motor screws with the frame which was your recommendation. But then you say that you don't think that frame manufacturers should include motor screws. I know that was not what you meant but that could be confusing to someone new. 15:24.
Im a noob on the drone world, I Like your video, just a question is it possible to have a GPS link on these? I'm not into racing just I want to build a one...
Please do the same build but with a Caddx Vista and let's see if you get better or worse times. Analog= lightweight/fuzzy. Digital= heavyweight/clarity. I wonder if seeing better will make up for the weight difference. My guess is that digital will give you better times even with the extra weight. Personally I feel that digital allows for me to see further into the future. Fly Great!
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
I got aquestion, after 40 minutes lol. Where is the battery protection pad at the bottom of that pro frame? Dont get it how that could have been overlooked. Or was it?
Please! Watch the beginning of this video (ruclips.net/video/WMDED6j1-Ic/видео.html) to see two important changes you should make in this build.
@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
I learned something today, but wasn't informed that I will.
You was actually.. subconsciously.. :) It´s on the wall behind him :P
GOLD! Acronyms do not express how much I laughed out loud!
lmao
True
I saw you in my dream. We were flying together and you taught me a lot of things. Well it might be the effect of me watching your videos all day.
No one gaf
Np
@@hammz07someone woke on the wrong side of the bed ain’t it?
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Don’t know that
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
the red tape rage is real. you are triggering my OCD. thank you JB.
I'm Early. Hi Joshua Sir (if you are reading this)! You really are a great teacher!
🤮
🤐.. There's people that believe his head and ego may explode if we encourage him.
Tread lightly here. 😁
@@MadDragon75 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
what a simp
pathetic
@@williamd2469 says people with "0" subscribers.
Awesome video, and Thankyou for the support! Can’t wait to see you out on the track!
I love watching a master at work
You should come back to Georgia Tech for some racing! We just recently got approved to host races in the Burger Bowl!
Yep, we are going to host a freedom spec qualifier and some multigp racing 🔥
That would be awesome!
Nice !
I (attempt) freestyle with a little racing drone.
We do as please.
How do I find more info on this? I live in the area and would love to come spectate when it happens.
What's the weight of this build??? This looks sub 250g without a massive battery.
Is that right?
Yeah, that would be interesting to know, and maybe what the weight difference is.
This is 300g without a battery and around 150 to 500g with a battery.
@@JoshuaBardwell Wow!
It must be a beast!
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
why do i feel like you're always speaking directly to me?!! lol good stuuf as usual
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack.
Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
3:30 the rigs AUW is no less than 460g with a 3s battery on board.
Which arm version did you use? SFG, Lite or Longback?
17:10 is why i bought a 5 pack of those pens. soooo convenient!
I just bought some parts from Evan last weekend and built one myself. I love the switchback config... and bruh, those motors are some beasts!!
4:16 Yes, but does it come with red electrical tape??? :)
Ghost hybrid video soon!! Thumbs up for that!
When will you do your perfect freestyle build?
Simply the best intron on the channel ever 😄
Great build man I like the way you troubleshoot on camera instead of some how magically everything goes perfect like most build videos lol
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
Am I gonna learn something today, Joshua??
Nope!
I have learnd something today..!
EVERY day buddy. Every day.
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
It's keyed. You don't plug it in the wrong way. The motor always spins the right direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell oh ok thank u for letting me know.
Nothing like a perfect fit. Files are nice for superior frames
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
The connectors are keyed so you can't plug them in backwards.
Thx for the info. I had to had cheaper ones couse mine did not have those keys :)
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
Yes for sure.
I learned about flux back when i started building drag slot car chassis...flux is an amazing chemical!
Oh! and every day I learn somethingS...right on this channel.
Haha good one , 4 years later and still learning from you bro.. I’m building this one as I am the slowest pilot In Redding California.
Hello from Chico!
27:27 installs the ESC wire exactly on top of the gyro... ohooh
so cool that u building a drone and im going to watch lol thank u. my firts kwad i build it because of ur videos the second i bouth it the sedora and now i own more or less between ten and eleven kwads thanks to u.
Just buy a set of round leatherworking punches to make holes for screw access in battery pads, it’s such an easy solution :)
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
What is the dry weight (quad without lipo and hd cam)? Also, what mah to choose if you go for 4s lipos?
Just under 300g dry. I suggest 1300 mAh 4S if you go that direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
Is that a fluxcapacatator as in the Delorean(BACK TO THE FUTURE) but for your droanelorean
Jeez JB! Great close up video.
LOL.. Love the start of the vid JB 😁👍
Those MT30 plugs are so cool, new to me.
that hole in the mid plate you used for the capacitor zip tie is for that reason exactly!
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
@ 1:24 i thought your esc was vertical i was so confused..
Great video👍 I always learn something today😉😄
Love how you troll the trolls! I say use the red tape in more areas!
so happy to see this video. great job!
I'd cut the gummy to the shape of the base plate and drill apertures so I can see the screws with paint or thin cut tape to see if the screws are walking out.
Hey Josh, cool video, as always! Make small cut-outs in the battery pad to make the scews accessible! ;-)
Twisting the motor wires may help reduce EMF radiation. A ferrite ring over them will help further.
I'ved learned something today! Great video JB.
Soft mounted a cap brilliant
I killed a redux ESC and I never ever kill ESCs - the layers split very easily. Prob just a one-off - Great frame BTW!!
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
That's what I did JUST JUMP IN THE WATER IS GREAT!!!
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
you might of said it in the video but what arms did you get the SFG, lite or longback?
Josh, could you use a paper hole punch through the battery pad to maintain the ability to access those lower frame screws?
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
AIO have reduced durability.
Hey Joshua
I also want to build a Racing Quad, with the Switchback... But don't know if I should go for the F60 or the motors you used...
Maybe cut two holes in the umagrip with a craft knife so you can get to the screws in center?
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
I am pretty sure that Drew is going to love that Red electrical tape 🥴
I like the tape! I use white personally
So how did you get a Redux Air Redux32 ESC? Those along with the HeadsUp motors have been out of stock.
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
I was wondering what build you would be using at the race. Got my answer and a build video. Sweet. 💖🤓
Hilarious intro, JB. Had me LMAO. You da best!
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
Just one contradictory statement in there about the motor screws. They include motor screws with the frame which was your recommendation. But then you say that you don't think that frame manufacturers should include motor screws. I know that was not what you meant but that could be confusing to someone new. 15:24.
yeah I have always used liquid flux. People either never use it or use plumbers flux. it drives me nuts!
you are teasing us! Where is the new perfect freestyle build! lol good video, thanks for the guide.
I saw you cut that Ghost antenna mount...😳😳😳😳😯😯😯🇬🇧..... Where's my Fridge scene..?...lol..
Hi Joshua , wanted to ask, maybe in what video will you show how to make something from RushFpv electronic !? Lots of people used this electronic.
what propellers do you recommend for this build tho ???????????? and what battery
Im a noob on the drone world, I Like your video, just a question is it possible to have a GPS link on these? I'm not into racing just I want to build a one...
I use the hybrid tramp/ghost Rx. It's awesome
I was wondering what was up with all those race gates.
I prob missed it, but what is the dry weight and AUW?
Dry 280g. So about 480 with a 1000 mAh 6S but perhaps as low as 460 if you have a lighter battery.
Will the jumper t lite bind with the inductrix fpv +
Please do the same build but with a Caddx Vista and let's see if you get better or worse times. Analog= lightweight/fuzzy. Digital= heavyweight/clarity. I wonder if seeing better will make up for the weight difference. My guess is that digital will give you better times even with the extra weight. Personally I feel that digital allows for me to see further into the future. Fly Great!
Thanks I learned that I want that friggin flux pin xD Didn't think it would make that much difference! :O
To access that difficult screw, use a low profile phillips wrench.... if one that thin exists; If not, create it...
LOL .... Love the Tape. Bring it!!!
YES! Red tape = more power.
I know the Latency is at question, but what about doing this is a DJI digital quad using a Vista setup?
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
Damn you are teasing us about that new best freestyle kwad😂
thats what i was thinking!
That MR-30 is pretty big. Would there be a smaller option?
2mm gold connectors. Basically the same but without the plastic.
I got aquestion, after 40 minutes lol. Where is the battery protection pad at the bottom of that pro frame? Dont get it how that could have been overlooked. Or was it?
It is Ummagrip that I installed myself.
Nice build Joshua, thx for sharing it! how about the weight of the drone, could you please tell us? thx!
Hay Joshua Bardwell RVS includes motor screws and gives you the credit, just wanted you to know
Why don't you use the T3 pad for ghost instead of T2? It's located perfectly.
These build videos are great! Thank you for sharing!
Josh, why did ghost wire up to the tx pad and not rx pad? and if so, why not use the t3 that was part of the video pads on the fc?
Umm. Yeah. That would have been really smart actually. T3 is intended for SmartAudio but I'm not using that. Umm. Yeah. Good point.
@@JoshuaBardwell lol. To the first point though, does the ghst protocol use a tx pad, or is that just when it's using srxl2
Looks so simple when you do it!
Thank you!! I Now know my build 👍🏼
Looking forward to seeing your betaflight setup video .
The intro had me laughing out loud.😂
great soldering skills
Best Blair witch ever.