I have been waiting for you do to one in that size! I always loved your little rip squeak vids, and with the Demibot coming out I figured it would just be a matter of time until you got something going in that size range. I would absolutely love to take a look at it when it is finished up! Also....gonna have to put a bratwurst or something on it and see if it can carry that :p
ORDER PLACED! Thanks! I'm Soo excited, this will be my first non whoop and only my second drone! It's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you again! Can't wait! Awesome videos!
I built a Quadmula siren f3 o3 as my first build after watching your video on it! Such an awesome quad. I accidentally got the regular siren f3 instead of the split but actually worked out since I had more room with the skystars FC. The cap was a pain though.
I built this and have been enjoying it quite a bit except for the broken props on every crash...switching to 3 blade props today and looking forward to some airtime on larger batteries . Thanks for the update. Super helpful
yeah that is exactly the reason I moved from the 4 blades. I really did like the 4 blades, and the extra thrust and grip really did feel nice....but literally every crash meant a broken prop, lol. I bet you will like the 3 blades better when it comes to that!
@@rubengarciajr7560 good question! A 4 blade prop has less area for connecting the blade to the hub since it is shared with more blades, which makes them weaker. Also, a 3 blade prop can move out of the way on impact ( 2 blades are actually best at this ) where with a 4 blade you are more likely to put leverage on a blade instead of the arm in an impact.
My go-to 3.5" is the aos... It comes in right at 250g with a Rline 750! So I agree, smaller is better when paired with a 03. Nov is right around the corner people... nice content as usual. peace, flight, and kindness are the key to happiness.
It's sad when you damage a Rline! And you will... I get this small tear that runs down my face... it's like a part of you mourns... RIP my battery bro. I'm down to two out of four. I have been working on my Mattys. Halfway there. The smaller drone helps me learn how to do a trick. Less to break on a 3.5 aos and frames like it. I'm a Slow learner...
I just built an AOS 3.5 & I'm right at 250g (throttle caped at 75%) My other go to is a Babyhawk ll (throttle caped at 65% over 10 minutes of mixed flying) I have the throttle cap on a switch as my quads are set up for flying through the trees at my house. In an open field I like to have more top end power but flight time is cut in half & battery packs take more damage.
Exactly! the aos 3.5 is a little less durable because of the camera mount / bumper. But 3.5 inch with the p1604 motors at 6s is just amaaazing. The siren f3 would be good with the f1404 2900kv motors on 6s, but why not just go 3.5 inch if the weight is the same :) When they create a 3.5 inch with the same weight, I will buy a siren f3.5
I gotta build one of these!!! Another great vid. Nerdy, scientific, informative, and most importantly... honest. That's why I love your content. Nobody does it better. Keep up the good work, brother! 👊🥓 Edit: Still can't believe a 3" 6s 1300 flies like that... beast mode: activated 😈
I always appreciate you buddy!!! I go especially heavy on the nerdy :p but I do that with most things in reality, lol. To be fair, with that 1300 it flew like a brick...a still controllable brick, but a brick none the less. It did make for a suuuuuper long flight though!!
Reminds me of a 4" build I did a while back using the original fpvcycle 2203 3450 kv motors. 850 mah 4s turned out to be the sweet spot for batteries, and the power to weight ratio is ridiculous!
I really need to build up another 4". I have a bunch of every other size, but for some reason I only find myself with one four inch quad on the wall, lol. Also, I do love a good FPV Cycle motor!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Best 4" quad - the Catalyst Machine Works Shocker! Love that frame! Lot's of folks say it flies very well. I love the way it looks. The biggest issue is the prop's limit the size of batteries you can use but I have several that fit just fine from 650ma to 950mah. Fun quad, would love to see what you think of it.
Another frame option worth considering for this style of build might be the 2Fiddy with the 4" arms running 3.5" props. I think my 5" 2Fiddy is going to end up getting the new avatar hd pro that just arrived when I get time for building again.
the 2Fiddy is a great design, hands down. I think the avatar HD Pro is a perfect fit for it too, especially if you are cool with using the on board 1080p recording. Having that 32G of internal storage has really made me feel better about using it for shareable footage.
@@sixtofive I would love to see that too, or at least a full USB C port built into it that actually powers up the VTX without needing a pack plugged in...that part still gets me, lol.
I was going to make this one a 4S with a more traditional motor pick, but then I decided.....hey, why not go crazy with this one, lol. Kinda glad I did too, because I have more traditional 3" builds and this is the one I take off the wall every time I want to fly something in this size class.
They make for some super great rippers! I still do love my 5" quads, I just really love being able to throw this on a small bag and carry it around when im not sure if I will find a decent size spot to fly at. I miss ripping spontaneous spots that I see around, lol.
Regulations aside, the weight saving you get with smaller builds really changes the forces involved in crashes. Ive been learning tricks/cutting grass/pounding walls on a Flywoo Explorer LR4 O3 (on 4s 1500mAh's) and my 5" 6s freestyle friends cant get over how much of a beating it can take. We think its entirely down to the total take-off mass. I still hit the ground at 50mph but because Im significantly lighter, the impact joules are a lot more forgiving. You /do/ need to fly better because you dont have the punch out forgiveeness that 6s will bring you but I guess thats good to learn on. The 15min flight times are a plus too :)
The closer we get to September the more this size build will get more popular. Love the way you set it up and the mindset behind the build. Quality video as always my dude! Stay greasy!
My main problem with quadmula frames is where you put your esc there's 2 metal press nuts right below it. I have to get a plastic sticker to put over that to keep from shorting out in a crash. But my 2.5 inch quadmula cap holder is great place for a small cap. Other wise it's a great frame.
Thank you!! I have a configuration section at the bottom of the build page over on my website with the tune diff :) www.letsgetgreasy.com/post/bacon-s-b3ast-3-freestyle-build
The Rekon4 FR with 3.5” props is an exceptional quad and it’s a BNF. It genuinely flies like a 5”. At your weight 270-300g you’d enjoy 3.5” props more, they have a bit more instant pop that I found 3” lacked at that weight.
I think 3.5" props would be a good option for sure. I didn't find this particular build to be lacking punch, especially with such large motors and on 6S, but a little larger prop can get it there too. I think we are going to see a whole lot more in this size range over the next year!
@Bacon Ninja FPV I have both a 3 inch armattan gecko and a 3 inch geprc px3( the airtime is insane on this one because its sooo light, almost like flying with moon gravity)
Thought about this frame but ended up with Aos 3.5. Also on 6s with t motor 1604. And the mamba Aio. I’ve blown it to pieces twice. Waiting on new frame. All electronics good thankfully.
I just built an AOS 3.5 & I'm right at 250g (throttle caped at 75%) My other go to is a Babyhawk ll (throttle caped at 65% over 10 minutes of mixed flying) I have the throttle cap on a switch as my quads are set up for flying through the trees at my house. In an open field I like to have more top end power but flight time is cut in half & battery packs take more damage.
yeah I have basically just fallen into the camp that if I get 3 mins then it is at least "do able", but it does mean bringing a whole lot more packs. For my particular flight style, flying for much more than 3 minutes at a time almost always results in catastrophic crashes anyway, lol.
@baconninjafpv Im currently using analog but my upgrade in the future to hd zerro. What camera mount version should I order hdzero mount? Would that hd zerro mount work with a analog camera? Also how do you know what size arm guards? Do they match motor mount screw spacing? I want to know because I'm thinking of ordering one of these frames. It will be my latest build. I just finished a tiny whoop build. Thanks bacon! Keep it greasy bro!
So the HDZero standard micro sized cameras should mount up in this the exact same as any micro sized analog camera :) The stock plates should fit you just fine either way as long as you aren't using nano cameras for this build, in which case some changing is in order. As for the arm guards, they match the mount spacing exactly and are a pretty darn great design.
3 Inch drones are fantastic ! I'm flying my Pickle Evo2 MK3 3inch HDzero more than m 5 inch . It's a Lot of fun and i also fly in my Garden 🎉😂 have a nice Weekend Buddy ❤
They are just soooo convenient and done right they can rip as hard as you want them to! I miss the speed a little sometimes, but that is really about it. You have a nice weekend too man!
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks man , Hope there is another Video coming soon 🥳💪 My next build is a 65mm whoop in hdzero Like Mr.shutterbug , i need a House Ripper 🤣
lol, yeah I swapped over to a 3" light weight build running 1404 motors to do walksnail testing after flying this one for a while.....I instantly missed my bigger motors.
Just one noisy axis really, but like you say its not too hard to work with even with moderate filtering. Now I just have to smack my gyro enough to loosen up the yaw twitch, lol.
Hey Bacon, I’m starting an analog 3” or 3.5” sub 250 build. Torn between this siren F3, the AOS 3.5, and the Grinderino. Any advice? I’m coming from whoops and a 1s 3”, so I don’t need the very absolute most power. Durable, not too annoyingly loud, and most importantly, fun, is my goal. EDIT: I just bought the Siren F3 Split. I wanted a few less grams and 3", plus it just looks super fun.
If someone was stood watching your drone flip around like that they would definitely think you've lost control of it lol do you get many complaints:P the way you fly is unique i might build this though will all the parts you listed in description is there any chance of getting the PID dump file. I just haven't got a clue 1 bit about how to PID tune a quad lol.
Just wanted to say that I just saw this video in Aug of 2024, It was very interesting and I have to say you made a good case for this frame, almost got me on the hook, I am almost sold the only holdout is the 250g baloney... I am a big fan of Skystars products, the cost is great and the performance seems to be perfectly good. I do like the fact that it is quieter than a 5" and that you can get around 10 min of cruising flight times and that you have crashed it hard with little to no damage. Your motors are good choices (I love the Hyperlite 2005.5 motors) and the 03 is still the best choice although Walksnail has some super cool products now. What is it about the Quadmulla frames that make them tougher? Higher grade of carbon or better epoxy, thicker arms, something else? Anyway great video, cheers!
So usually, with my flippies and floppies, I get right at 3 minutes. If I am just cruising or doing some light loopy stuff I can push that up another 30 to 60 seconds though. It will also haul a 1300mah pack around if you want it to for a pretty insane cruising flight time :)
I'm looking forward to build the same quad like you - parts are on delivery. To start save, what's your PIDs on that quad? Do you used stock Tune of BF ? Would be great if you share your initial PIDs. Thx in advanced
The ones I am running on this are XT30 and I don't believe I have seen many down that low in mah that have an XT60. I run a little 60 to 30 adapter on the small packs, and as long as the 30 is on the battery side then it shouldn't be rated to ever put out any more amps than what the XT30 can do and remains safe. Doing it the other way around however does mean that the potential amp draw through an XT60 from a pack with one might eventually melt an XT30 at some point, so I do it the first way.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Gotcha, thats good to know thanks! Using 2850KV is that viable to combine with skystar stack? Also, mind taking picture from your website on how you soldered the capacitor that thing is tricky.
they are for sure a little heavier, but it will still fly with them. I flew this one with a 1300mah pack and it still stayed in the air, so it can handle the weight. You may get a little worse flight performance with a heavier pack though, but if you are more interested in flight time than really tight flippy flops it should be fine.
That one is really going to depend on the motors you plan on running. in my case my motors had a 12mm mounting pattern so I went that direction with them. The arms on this frame are slotted to go between 9mm and 12mm, but the TPU prints are a set size so you will just need to order whichever ones will work with the mount plates on the motors you want to run :)
There are a ton of options out there for it, which is a good thing :) the AOS frames, Quadmula frames, some GEPRC ones, Axis frames, Triton ones, and a ton of others. I think at one point the HDZ facebook group was keeping up with a full list, but I am not sure where that got too after so many options wound up on it.
I bought Siren F5 split from quadmula. Paid $30 DHL shipping. It was at my house in North Carolina, shipped from Taiwan, 4 days later. If you want it quickly, you can get it quickly.
hey that is some super fast shipping!!! I am really hoping they get some state side distribution soon so that shipping cost can come down for reasonable shipping times. Pretty impressive to make it so far in 4 days though!
Great video man! I'm looking around to some motors and besides the Emax Eco II that you are using I found the Mamba Toka 2004 / 2900kv. They have exactly the same specs, only that the Mamba is for a 4S. Any idea why? Couldn't I use it on a 6S as well, as it has the same specs?
Those Toka motors are a great alternative choice for the EcoII's I am running on this one! They are technically 4S rated for 3.5-4" props, but on 3" they are in the top end of the useable zone :)
Hi, stator volume is more like pi*r^2*h so 3,14*((w/2)^2)*h, isn’t it? But a question, why this volume is important when I chose an other kind of motor ? My goal is to be under 250gr and don’t want to change the O3… So my possibility is to gain weight on battery, motors and stack (like you said F722 KM35 for exemple). Motors 1404 in 4500kv get same RPM in 4S as 2004 3000kv in 6S but the volume stator is more like 615 mm3 versus 1256mm3. So the question is what’s the mostly important? Final RPM, motor size, volume stator or battery ? I’m new in FPV, thanks for your super bacon video!
Nice 👍🏻 love the build and your thoughts! 248grams dry, nice 😉 that quad would run just fine on a 5 gram ESC, it’s definitely over-built, but that’s not a bad thing! As we discussed prior, I think you did a great job with the design and execution! 👍🏻👍🏻 Weight is definitely super fun at times… that’s for sure!!! I’m just on a lightweight, high performance kick recently though 😜 since the Runcam90 AND the ultra performance racing builds, all my stuff is getting faster and lighter 😁 weird how that is, eh 😊 My 6” bi-blade flow-style quad is just a few grams heavier than your 3” ripper 😜
it is 10000% overbuilt, lol. I could absolutely come down a bit and probably make it more reasonable, buuuuuuut you know how it goes. I have the pork chop when I want something light and fast, but this thing is for those times when I want to rip a small spot with something that can fling and fit in tight spaces. You and your racing builds :p
Do you use bluejay for the esc? Because my motors run steaming hot after I fly, exactly like your build and tune, but I get 2 minutes only in the battery before it reaches 21v
I sure do! I have heard lately from quite a few people that the most recent version of bluejay is doing this on some quads. I have not personally had it happen to me, but it may be worth flashing back one version to see if that gets better. If it doesn't then you may have some source of resonance getting fed back into the gyro and expressed in d-term causing those hot motors. There are some things that can be done for that though, so lemme know if rolling back one version doesn't get it!
on this one I did have to re pin. I believe it was exactly backwards from the stock pinout, so I took them all out and put them all back in the opposite order. If you plan on doing it just double check first, but I am pretty sure it was just a completely backwards pinout for that connector.
Cool build this is something I wanted to build for a while. My 5” is really loud 😊. How come you didn’t put the capacitor on the xt60?The way how I fly I would have to put a buzzer on mine though lol
This one kind of sounds like a whistle unless you are super close to it, and even then it isn't as scary sounding as a bigger quad is. The main lead is actually pretty long on this one since it runs under the frame. There wasn't any room to run it over the O3 unit, and coming out the front was just as tight. I wound up using the Quadmula wire paths that go under the back of the bottom plate and back up the rear standoffs, so it would have been a little long for getting good performance out of a cap on the XT60. It was tough to get it in there, but after plenty of fiddling I got it, lol.
The props are a tad in view for sure! Having a really small wheel base makes it hard to not have them in view unless you start running more of a deadcat configuration. I do have a much better prop layout one in the works though :) I switched over to the 3x3x3 mostly due to durability on the quad blade props. Every crash would mean having a blade brake off due to the limited joining area as you increase blades. It works out well when you have ducts because they take the impact, but the tri blades do hold up a bit better. I like the Dal, just preferred to stick to the HQ since I liked the flexibility in their blade profile for a little additional smoothness.
I just run a little 30 to 60 adapter :) since the small side is on the battery, it won't ever be able to provide more than what the 30 is rated for so running a 60 up stream is safe. Doing it the other way around though where you have a 60 on the battery and a 30 on the quad is a great way to melt some plugs.
Thank you!! For analog, I really like Rush, and for this build I would probably go with something like the Rush Tank Solo. Having a full watt in a small rugged package with the available 20x20 mounting in the rear of this frame would be pretty darn good!
Saadly in australia its over 100$ delivered,but i would still go for 1 over breaking baby apes,oh what was that frame you are going to use instead of darwins gear plz?..love your videos siren will be on my snail list....ssave save spend~love ya bro you n the family be safe n happy sugar free easter! adhd and sugar dont mix with 4n6 yr olds ..birthday girl today 4.okies take care~oh great live stream could see you overclocked the brain processor to keep up,you done well.
The shipping in Aus always gets me how expensive it can get!!! I guess there are surcharges for dodging crocs and having the occasional kangaroo boxing match :p I am actually about to do a swap over on some darwin gear to a 2" frame in the next couple of weeks, but on the baby ape being a little larger I have run something like the HX115LR frame and put that same gear in it. A lighter frame is good for what the baby ape is running with the size motors it has on it. Happy birthday to her!!!!! Also, yes, my brain was a bit cooked after that one, lol.
im honestly suprised that your able to go from hdz90 to djio3 and still be ok, i went from a caddx ant to a ratel 2, its about a similar difference in latency, and i honestly felt so disconnected, i had to go back to an ant, and i put the ratel2 on my plane, and its fine on the plane just trying to dive gaps or fly close to the ground or things, and you are doing your crazy mind bending freestyle with an o3 after using hdz90 its crazy, i wonder how much or if at all you personally notice the latency difference?
I do notice the latency difference, and the smoothness difference for sure. I have just found that I am pretty naturally inclined to adjust well after a couple packs of each and get back in the zone. It usually starts out by flying a little higher than I normally would after I switch over, but by the end of pack one I am right back close to the ground where I want to be. Now that isn't to say I don't crash more on one than the other, because I totally do :p
I really like the idea for the build. I would like to do something similar but under 250 grams. I'll probably go analog to save weight and money as all I have are analog goggles for now. I'm fairly new and waiting to switch to digital till I see how the whole remote ID thing plays out and who supports it the best, plus I still crash a lot so I'd rather have to replace an analog vtx than an expensive digital one.
I did use the plug on mine and it works great! :) Double check the pinout though because if I remember correctly it is exactly reversed on the plug they have in their FC. You may have to pull all of the pins out and re-pin it to line up correctly without shorting your air unit.
No throttle limit on this one :) As the props get smaller, KV tends to go up quite a bit in the safe zones. Since the prop travels a shorter distance per revolution on smaller props we usually have to spin them faster as they get smaller. 3000kv on this is right at the top end of 6S use on 3", but for sure in the safe area. On 5" we usually don't go too far above 2000kv since they have a much longer tip travel path.
Hello Bacon, i got one question for you. I love your build with your 3inch.. I have décided to follow the same philosophy. i built a similar one with à micro apex 4 frame. I got F2203.5 2850kv with speedybee f7 mini. I cannot fly it in 6s without puting à motor output limit at 60%... If not i got a death roll... 😢😢 Do u know what ?
The death roll is absolutely easier to find on this size build with bigger motors. What PWM frequency are you running, and are you doing bluejay or BLHeliS? I have found that lower PWM frequencies and some adjustments to the ESC like higher demag compensation and lower timing will really help with the rolls. I have had this one do it one time, but that was the only time it tried to.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Hello Mister, just a little feedback. yesterday i have received my new set of 4 motors in 1500kv. I have removed the old ones in 2850kv this morning. I couldnt wait to see the difference. Amazing ! No more death rolls, no more desync. The blackbox is so perfect now with 0 gyro noise. I m so happy that even after 5 packs and so many freestyles tricks, this micro apex 4 fly even better than my 5inch after my tuning operation. Not enough word to send u my thanks and i have really appreciated your help cause it was so annoying to cannot fly this quad.... this fresh new build. thanks a French Pilot
Hey I copy your build it flys nice and smooth but motor are burning hot. And im having the desink problem. I know in the build descrition you mention “You may find that you want to run your ESC with demag compensation set to high and make adjustments to timing or ramp up power to avoid desyncs” I set mine to power set to 60%. Demag set to super high,timing at 26 still motors super hot any guideline will be appreciated
hmmmm, if you have tried those things but are still getting really hot motors there is a good chance that your build has a little more gyro feedback than what is ideal. Some things I would try for that though. First, make sure your stack screw nuts aren't too tight. If you are compressing the gummies too much then they wont properly isolate the FC and it will need way more filtering than normal. Next I would make sure you don't have any wires flopping near the gyro since that will act the same way. Last, make sure your m2 bolts going through the bottom plate are tight and seated all of the way. If that little puzzle piece doesn't sit properly it will cause some serious gyro noise issues. If all of that checks out, go to the PID tab in Betaflight and move your filter sliders a couple of notches to the left to see if that helps. If that does help, it is for sure a gyro noise issue.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks for the reply Tomorrow I will doble check all the nuts & screws and that little union part. Also I bulive my fc & esc nuts are too tight!I will let you know👌🏾
Stil geting hot motors. My BLheli is set 58 ramp up power, demag comp set to High, Motor timing set to 25 and pwm freq set low to 22 and high set to 50 is that sounds correct?
the 550 battery is xt30 and the 1300 is xt60, can you tell me if they both work with the same power cable on the drone or do i need an adapter for it? im new to the hobby
So I actually have an XT60 on the main lead of the quad and use an adapter to go from the XT30 of the battery to that XT60 when I use the smaller packs. When I am using the larger ones, they plug right in. The reason I did it that way is so I am never in a situation where the battery can provide more amps than the main lead connector can handle rather than going from an XT60 to an XT30 on the bigger packs and doing it the opposite way. I tend to like the ones that are built into a 4" cable so that there is a little extra room too :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV I just received my parts and wanna start build (exactly like yours) the only issue i have is the O3AU cables arrangement. help a dumb brother here, I need to know how to put colors in the right order before connecting and not frying it :(
I got back into flying again , I have a mark5 hd same one as you threw away, and a babyhawk, which i rarely use. i also have a mark5 hd extra fc and esc. what would you recommend i build? i would prefer to stick to 6s (since my mark 5 ) could i use components from the babyhawk ? such as the vista ? build a 3" 6s or 5"?
Hmmmm, that is a whole lot of decisions! You could absolutely use the Vista out of the babyhawk on just about any frame. As for using the FC and ESC that you have spare, that would probably be best in a 5" since they are sized for a Mark5HD. On a frame for that one there are a tooooon of options. I would recommend the Quadmula Siren F5 Split because it has been so great to fly over the past few months, but there are a ton of other choices as well depending on your budget.
Have you tried a 3.5” quad yet? I swear that extra 1/2” makes a huge difference. 3” is so much less efficient. It’s just under the ideal weight to power ratio. You can double the flight time and maintain nearly the exact same flight characteristics with an extra 1/2”.
I sure have, and they are great! For this particular build, the power band of the motors along with the thrust to weight ratio and disk loading parameters were just what I happened to be looking for in it. It was never going to be a flight time rig for sure, wayyyyy too much motor and too little prop for that, lol. It was more about the ability to carry the weight in a particular way that let it feel like I wanted in the kind of moves that I do :) 3.5" is a great spot to be though for lots of other things!
3000kv is about 8% higher than the average for 3" motors on heavier rigs, so not too much higher than you might typically see. I wanted this one to be able to carry a little more weight when it needed to, so that overage helps to accomplish it a bit :)
I think you will be right on the edge when it comes to KV, but that is ok since you can just run a motor output limit if you start having any desync issues with it :) I am actually planning on doing something pretty similar soon!
@@chrisbee5481 mittlerweile ist er fertig aufgebaut mit den 2900kv Motoren. Das Teil ist einfach nur krank.. 180km/h laut GPS da kann mein 5inch einpacken 😂
This size for freestyle really interests me. I picked up a speedybee flex25 for cheap and I'm thinking of converting it to a 3inch like this on 4s. What do yall think?
hmmmmmm, if you can get the props in there since it is a whooped pusher, then I suppose that would work! I do think though that you may hit a limit on the prop overlap between the front and rear motors if you go any bigger than the 2.5", but there is only one way to find out, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I guess I wasn't very clear with my first comment I want to pick a new frame to swap the flex25 components onto. Something without the overlapping layout. I don't have the funds for a build but I got the flex so cheap my first thought was to use the parts on a new frame.
@@dustinwilson492 ohhhhh, I see, that makes a whole lot more sense to me now. I am actually looking at a few frames this month that would be great for that at reasonable prices. Those bigger motors are going to need something kind of stuff, so toothpick or thin frames would be hard to keep resonance minimal on. GEPRC makes a smart 25 frame that would be a good option, and I have one on the bench from Unger CNC that is looking really promising for 2"-3" builds. I would say this Quadmula frame could do it too, but you may be into needing something different ESC wise due to the extra weight of it.
@@BaconNinjaFPV ok so I need a light conventional freestyle frame. I was wondering about the 35 amp esc. I don't need a beast just looking to move up from my baby ape. The flex seems really strong on lower rpm but nothing at the top of the range. I was wondering how much of that was prop or loss of thrust from the cramped layout.
what do you think about the 2004 motors? i think most ppl running 6s are running 1604 2850kv ish motors. and do you have a favourite mah for 6s for more freestyle for this 3”
Doing a speedybee35 with 2205 iflight xing 3250kv. Axis flying argus f7 aio, 03 unit. Got 89mm 8 blades and HQ 90mm 3 bladdes to try. Thinking 4s but might try 6 😉 got yellow guards and leds. Going gps and buzzer on this one. Got a YMZFPV starship x1 that was great little 2.5" quad but got in wet grass and only 1 side working. Thinking about another axis flying argus f7 for it if that works good. Also have cinebot25 s that is fun 😁 still learning. 7" with dalprops and darwinfpv f7 is easiest so far😁 keep the bacon coming!!
I am a big fan of the Hyperlite 2005.5's at 2622kv - i have this motor and i like it a lot... but i am a shyte pilot so i'm not so sure i really know what's what (Hyperlite also has a 3122kv motor with awesome reviews, that kv is a bit high, but the reviews say it's awesome). Also you can also check out the RCINPOWER GTS V3 2105 motors - these motors rip! For 4s they come in 2950kv. Again a bit high in kv but not as much as the Hyperlites. Then you can check out the iFlight Xing2 1806 2500KV - good stator volume and a brand that has been around for a long time and is known for quality and performance. Really you almost can't go wrong nowadays as quality and performance have all become pretty good across the range of products. For more info you can also go to where these are sold and read reviews there as well. As Bacon Ninja said in this video, the stator volume is a key item and the 2004 motors have a volume of around 1256, The Hyperlites above have a volume about 1728 (a big jump up from 1256...) The RCin motor is just about the same as the Hyperlite at 1731 The IFlight Xing2's are 1526 so right in the middle of this range. Good luck and have fun!
If you were to upgrade this build to the best of the best parts not thinking about costs at all. How would the specs look? (Motors, FC, ESC. battery setup and props)
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Im working on a 3.5" ripper right now, id love to send ya one when its finished.
I have been waiting for you do to one in that size! I always loved your little rip squeak vids, and with the Demibot coming out I figured it would just be a matter of time until you got something going in that size range. I would absolutely love to take a look at it when it is finished up! Also....gonna have to put a bratwurst or something on it and see if it can carry that :p
You two are the best 🤘🤘
ORDER PLACED! Thanks! I'm Soo excited, this will be my first non whoop and only my second drone! It's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you again! Can't wait! Awesome videos!
I can't wait to hear how you like it!!!!!
I built a Quadmula siren f3 o3 as my first build after watching your video on it! Such an awesome quad. I accidentally got the regular siren f3 instead of the split but actually worked out since I had more room with the skystars FC. The cap was a pain though.
It is a great little rig!! The non-split does have a bit more room for sure...but that cap man, every time with that thing, lol.
Love that transition from cinematic to hyper-sbang in the outro!
I like to from calm to crazy, lol...its kinda what happens in my brain all of the time.
I built this and have been enjoying it quite a bit except for the broken props on every crash...switching to 3 blade props today and looking forward to some airtime on larger batteries . Thanks for the update. Super helpful
yeah that is exactly the reason I moved from the 4 blades. I really did like the 4 blades, and the extra thrust and grip really did feel nice....but literally every crash meant a broken prop, lol. I bet you will like the 3 blades better when it comes to that!
@@BaconNinjaFPV test flight today! I also stuck a flywoo Goku gm10 nano gps chip on the back.
@@BaconNinjaFPV how come the 4 blades breaks, as opposed to the 3 blade ones?
@@rubengarciajr7560 good question! A 4 blade prop has less area for connecting the blade to the hub since it is shared with more blades, which makes them weaker. Also, a 3 blade prop can move out of the way on impact ( 2 blades are actually best at this ) where with a 4 blade you are more likely to put leverage on a blade instead of the arm in an impact.
My go-to 3.5" is the aos...
It comes in right at 250g with a Rline 750!
So I agree, smaller is better when paired with a 03.
Nov is right around the corner people...
nice content as usual. peace, flight, and kindness are the key to happiness.
I have been eyeing the Rline 750 to try on this one, and it just might happen! lol. I always appreciate you man!
It's sad when you damage a Rline! And you will...
I get this small tear that runs down my face... it's like a part of you mourns...
RIP my battery bro.
I'm down to two out of four. I have been working on my Mattys. Halfway there. The smaller drone helps me learn how to do a trick. Less to break on a 3.5 aos and frames like it.
I'm a Slow learner...
I just built an AOS 3.5 & I'm right at 250g (throttle caped at 75%)
My other go to is a Babyhawk ll (throttle caped at 65% over 10 minutes of mixed flying)
I have the throttle cap on a switch as my quads are set up for flying through the trees at my house. In an open field I like to have more top end power but flight time is cut in half & battery packs take more damage.
Exactly! the aos 3.5 is a little less durable because of the camera mount / bumper. But 3.5 inch with the p1604 motors at 6s is just amaaazing. The siren f3 would be good with the f1404 2900kv motors on 6s, but why not just go 3.5 inch if the weight is the same :) When they create a 3.5 inch with the same weight, I will buy a siren f3.5
I just finished an Apex 4" build with similar specs to this, Love it. It's like my toothpick and Nazgul got BIZZAY!
lolol, you gotta stop leaving your fleet alone so much. When the pilot is away, the quads will play :p
I just built a drone from the parts you recommended and will be making my first flight tomorrow :)))
awesome!!! Can't wait to hear how you like it!
Thank you friend! I've been waiting for this video from you!
Thank you so much for checking it out! :)
I gotta build one of these!!! Another great vid. Nerdy, scientific, informative, and most importantly... honest. That's why I love your content. Nobody does it better. Keep up the good work, brother! 👊🥓
Edit: Still can't believe a 3" 6s 1300 flies like that... beast mode: activated 😈
I always appreciate you buddy!!! I go especially heavy on the nerdy :p but I do that with most things in reality, lol. To be fair, with that 1300 it flew like a brick...a still controllable brick, but a brick none the less. It did make for a suuuuuper long flight though!!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Flying brick 🤣🧱
Awesome build.. my favorite 3" quad is my 6s hdzero ripsqueak @249g with the gnb 550's..
The rip squeak is a darn good frame!!! I really have always wanted to build one out, but given the stock situation on it I never got to :(
did a 3" apex build with these motors on 6s and safe to say it's beyond nutty
nutty was at least 50% of the goal when I was picking out the parts for this one, lol.
Reminds me of a 4" build I did a while back using the original fpvcycle 2203 3450 kv motors. 850 mah 4s turned out to be the sweet spot for batteries, and the power to weight ratio is ridiculous!
I really need to build up another 4". I have a bunch of every other size, but for some reason I only find myself with one four inch quad on the wall, lol. Also, I do love a good FPV Cycle motor!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Best 4" quad - the Catalyst Machine Works Shocker! Love that frame! Lot's of folks say it flies very well. I love the way it looks.
The biggest issue is the prop's limit the size of batteries you can use but I have several that fit just fine from 650ma to 950mah. Fun quad, would love to see what you think of it.
Another frame option worth considering for this style of build might be the 2Fiddy with the 4" arms running 3.5" props. I think my 5" 2Fiddy is going to end up getting the new avatar hd pro that just arrived when I get time for building again.
the 2Fiddy is a great design, hands down. I think the avatar HD Pro is a perfect fit for it too, especially if you are cool with using the on board 1080p recording. Having that 32G of internal storage has really made me feel better about using it for shareable footage.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I'm still hoping for an sd card slot for a future hardware upgrade, but for now the increase to 32gb is definitely appreciated!
@@sixtofive I would love to see that too, or at least a full USB C port built into it that actually powers up the VTX without needing a pack plugged in...that part still gets me, lol.
spread that micro love!!! I feel that old-school hi-kv 1408/1507 are way underrated on 4s. I'd like to try a 6s 2004 build like yours, good stuff bro.
I was going to make this one a 4S with a more traditional motor pick, but then I decided.....hey, why not go crazy with this one, lol. Kinda glad I did too, because I have more traditional 3" builds and this is the one I take off the wall every time I want to fly something in this size class.
I love my f3 split. One of my favorites I've ever built. Probably second to my f5 split. The f3 is on tmotor 1604 flies like a Lil demon
They make for some super great rippers! I still do love my 5" quads, I just really love being able to throw this on a small bag and carry it around when im not sure if I will find a decent size spot to fly at. I miss ripping spontaneous spots that I see around, lol.
Regulations aside, the weight saving you get with smaller builds really changes the forces involved in crashes.
Ive been learning tricks/cutting grass/pounding walls on a Flywoo Explorer LR4 O3 (on 4s 1500mAh's) and my 5" 6s freestyle friends cant get over how much of a beating it can take. We think its entirely down to the total take-off mass. I still hit the ground at 50mph but because Im significantly lighter, the impact joules are a lot more forgiving.
You /do/ need to fly better because you dont have the punch out forgiveeness that 6s will bring you but I guess thats good to learn on. The 15min flight times are a plus too :)
The closer we get to September the more this size build will get more popular. Love the way you set it up and the mindset behind the build. Quality video as always my dude! Stay greasy!
I totally agree, we are gonna see a whole lot more of these kinds of things pop up as we get closer to that date. I always appreciate you bro!! :)
Wait what's happening in September?
@@ActionMediaAndynothing unless your wife has a boyfriend
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
My main problem with quadmula frames is where you put your esc there's 2 metal press nuts right below it. I have to get a plastic sticker to put over that to keep from shorting out in a crash. But my 2.5 inch quadmula cap holder is great place for a small cap. Other wise it's a great frame.
I ordered the F5 split frame and received it in 5 days.
not bad at all! They seem to be working on the shipping timelines, and I really hope to see some US suppliers for them soon!
Great build, and thanks for your tutorials. Could you share PID and filtering screenshots or diff setup for this amazing build. Thanks .
Thank you!! I have a configuration section at the bottom of the build page over on my website with the tune diff :) www.letsgetgreasy.com/post/bacon-s-b3ast-3-freestyle-build
The Rekon4 FR with 3.5” props is an exceptional quad and it’s a BNF. It genuinely flies like a 5”. At your weight 270-300g you’d enjoy 3.5” props more, they have a bit more instant pop that I found 3” lacked at that weight.
I think 3.5" props would be a good option for sure. I didn't find this particular build to be lacking punch, especially with such large motors and on 6S, but a little larger prop can get it there too. I think we are going to see a whole lot more in this size range over the next year!
@BaconNinjaFPV have you tried a little more aggressive prop like the tmotor 3140s?
i'm tempted to try my flywoo explorer LR4 with 3.5" props... it doesn't fly so good with 4inch
I love 3" quads
I absolutely recommend that every who can have on in their fleet should!
@Bacon Ninja FPV I have both a 3 inch armattan gecko and a 3 inch geprc px3( the airtime is insane on this one because its sooo light, almost like flying with moon gravity)
Thought about this frame but ended up with Aos 3.5. Also on 6s with t motor 1604. And the mamba Aio. I’ve blown it to pieces twice. Waiting on new frame. All electronics good thankfully.
I just built an AOS 3.5 & I'm right at 250g (throttle caped at 75%)
My other go to is a Babyhawk ll (throttle caped at 65% over 10 minutes of mixed flying)
I have the throttle cap on a switch as my quads are set up for flying through the trees at my house. In an open field I like to have more top end power but flight time is cut in half & battery packs take more damage.
yeah I have basically just fallen into the camp that if I get 3 mins then it is at least "do able", but it does mean bringing a whole lot more packs. For my particular flight style, flying for much more than 3 minutes at a time almost always results in catastrophic crashes anyway, lol.
There's no kill like overkill! Looks fun 🔥
crank it up to 11!!!!
Awesome build and flight, dude! 😃
Those little quads are a heck of fun!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you buddy! I love that I can just throw it on a bag easy then bust it out and rip without ticking anyone off and even in small spots.
@baconninjafpv Im currently using analog but my upgrade in the future to hd zerro. What camera mount version should I order hdzero mount? Would that hd zerro mount work with a analog camera? Also how do you know what size arm guards? Do they match motor mount screw spacing? I want to know because I'm thinking of ordering one of these frames. It will be my latest build. I just finished a tiny whoop build. Thanks bacon! Keep it greasy bro!
So the HDZero standard micro sized cameras should mount up in this the exact same as any micro sized analog camera :) The stock plates should fit you just fine either way as long as you aren't using nano cameras for this build, in which case some changing is in order. As for the arm guards, they match the mount spacing exactly and are a pretty darn great design.
Cool Thanks @baconninjafpv Keep the great content coming!
3 Inch drones are fantastic ! I'm flying my Pickle Evo2 MK3 3inch HDzero more than m 5 inch . It's a Lot of fun and i also fly in my Garden 🎉😂 have a nice Weekend Buddy ❤
They are just soooo convenient and done right they can rip as hard as you want them to! I miss the speed a little sometimes, but that is really about it. You have a nice weekend too man!
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks man , Hope there is another Video coming soon 🥳💪
My next build is a 65mm whoop in hdzero Like Mr.shutterbug , i need a House Ripper 🤣
3000kv motors!?
My Roma F35 with 2203.5 motors have the torque of a 5 inch and it's hard going back to 1404 or even 1505. I love the power of 6s power
lol, yeah I swapped over to a 3" light weight build running 1404 motors to do walksnail testing after flying this one for a while.....I instantly missed my bigger motors.
I agree big motors on a 3.5 is got crazy amount of thrust. I love the pop and lock in the air.
the gyro_scaled plots on that frame look really easy to work with 👍
Just one noisy axis really, but like you say its not too hard to work with even with moderate filtering. Now I just have to smack my gyro enough to loosen up the yaw twitch, lol.
Hey Bacon, I’m starting an analog 3” or 3.5” sub 250 build. Torn between this siren F3, the AOS 3.5, and the Grinderino. Any advice? I’m coming from whoops and a 1s 3”, so I don’t need the very absolute most power. Durable, not too annoyingly loud, and most importantly, fun, is my goal. EDIT: I just bought the Siren F3 Split. I wanted a few less grams and 3", plus it just looks super fun.
If someone was stood watching your drone flip around like that they would definitely think you've lost control of it lol do you get many complaints:P the way you fly is unique i might build this though will all the parts you listed in description is there any chance of getting the PID dump file. I just haven't got a clue 1 bit about how to PID tune a quad lol.
Just wanted to say that I just saw this video in Aug of 2024, It was very interesting and I have to say you made a good case for this frame, almost got me on the hook, I am almost sold the only holdout is the 250g baloney...
I am a big fan of Skystars products, the cost is great and the performance seems to be perfectly good. I do like the fact that it is quieter than a 5" and that you can get around 10 min of cruising flight times and that you have crashed it hard with little to no damage. Your motors are good choices (I love the Hyperlite 2005.5 motors) and the 03 is still the best choice although Walksnail has some super cool products now.
What is it about the Quadmulla frames that make them tougher? Higher grade of carbon or better epoxy, thicker arms, something else? Anyway great video, cheers!
Please make a review of Skystars
Very cool
Thank you!
What sort of flight time do you get with this beast on a 550
So usually, with my flippies and floppies, I get right at 3 minutes. If I am just cruising or doing some light loopy stuff I can push that up another 30 to 60 seconds though. It will also haul a 1300mah pack around if you want it to for a pretty insane cruising flight time :)
I'm looking forward to build the same quad like you - parts are on delivery.
To start save, what's your PIDs on that quad? Do you used stock Tune of BF ?
Would be great if you share your initial PIDs.
Thx in advanced
I actually just posted the tune on the website page for this build :) www.letsgetgreasy.com/post/bacon-s-b3ast-3-freestyle-build
Nice build! I could not find any 550mah 6s thats on XT60, how do you manage to run that with most of the lipos are on XT30 on low Mah?
The ones I am running on this are XT30 and I don't believe I have seen many down that low in mah that have an XT60. I run a little 60 to 30 adapter on the small packs, and as long as the 30 is on the battery side then it shouldn't be rated to ever put out any more amps than what the XT30 can do and remains safe. Doing it the other way around however does mean that the potential amp draw through an XT60 from a pack with one might eventually melt an XT30 at some point, so I do it the first way.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Gotcha, thats good to know thanks! Using 2850KV is that viable to combine with skystar stack? Also, mind taking picture from your website on how you soldered the capacitor that thing is tricky.
Awesome video 🙂👍👍
Thank you!!!!
what are your thoughts on the 650 and the 850 6s GMO lipos batteries going on this setup ?
they are for sure a little heavier, but it will still fly with them. I flew this one with a 1300mah pack and it still stayed in the air, so it can handle the weight. You may get a little worse flight performance with a heavier pack though, but if you are more interested in flight time than really tight flippy flops it should be fine.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks man
did you do any motor limits ?
No I am just going full capacity when I run this one on 6S :)
When you orders this frame did you grab the 9mm or 12mm arm Guards for the 3000kv motors , would you be able to use either one ?
That one is really going to depend on the motors you plan on running. in my case my motors had a 12mm mounting pattern so I went that direction with them. The arms on this frame are slotted to go between 9mm and 12mm, but the TPU prints are a set size so you will just need to order whichever ones will work with the mount plates on the motors you want to run :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks man helped out alot !!
I need a frame that can use the hdzero freestyle. Unsure of what can.
There are a ton of options out there for it, which is a good thing :) the AOS frames, Quadmula frames, some GEPRC ones, Axis frames, Triton ones, and a ton of others. I think at one point the HDZ facebook group was keeping up with a full list, but I am not sure where that got too after so many options wound up on it.
I bought Siren F5 split from quadmula. Paid $30 DHL shipping. It was at my house in North Carolina, shipped from Taiwan, 4 days later. If you want it quickly, you can get it quickly.
hey that is some super fast shipping!!! I am really hoping they get some state side distribution soon so that shipping cost can come down for reasonable shipping times. Pretty impressive to make it so far in 4 days though!
FYI, those motors are on sale through emax today.
Awesome!! Never hurts to save a couple of bucks.
Great video man! I'm looking around to some motors and besides the Emax Eco II that you are using I found the Mamba Toka 2004 / 2900kv.
They have exactly the same specs, only that the Mamba is for a 4S. Any idea why? Couldn't I use it on a 6S as well, as it has the same specs?
Those Toka motors are a great alternative choice for the EcoII's I am running on this one! They are technically 4S rated for 3.5-4" props, but on 3" they are in the top end of the useable zone :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV Oh nice man! Ordering as we speak, and thanks for the super quick turnaround! ;)
Throwing your drone is crazy I would never ( I consistently crash at 100kmh)
How do you not burn out your XT30 connector?
Hi, stator volume is more like pi*r^2*h so 3,14*((w/2)^2)*h, isn’t it?
But a question, why this volume is important when I chose an other kind of motor ? My goal is to be under 250gr and don’t want to change the O3… So my possibility is to gain weight on battery, motors and stack (like you said F722 KM35 for exemple). Motors 1404 in 4500kv get same RPM in 4S as 2004 3000kv in 6S but the volume stator is more like 615 mm3 versus 1256mm3.
So the question is what’s the mostly important? Final RPM, motor size, volume stator or battery ?
I’m new in FPV, thanks for your super bacon video!
What is the maximum trust it can produce
3.14 x (20 / 2) x 4 = 125.6? Am I missing something here?
Yeah, I forgot to add the square on the end. I know...I know, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Lol. Ok. I was wondering!
Nice 👍🏻 love the build and your thoughts!
248grams dry, nice 😉 that quad would run just fine on a 5 gram ESC, it’s definitely over-built, but that’s not a bad thing! As we discussed prior, I think you did a great job with the design and execution! 👍🏻👍🏻
Weight is definitely super fun at times… that’s for sure!!! I’m just on a lightweight, high performance kick recently though 😜 since the Runcam90 AND the ultra performance racing builds, all my stuff is getting faster and lighter 😁 weird how that is, eh 😊
My 6” bi-blade flow-style quad is just a few grams heavier than your 3” ripper 😜
it is 10000% overbuilt, lol. I could absolutely come down a bit and probably make it more reasonable, buuuuuuut you know how it goes. I have the pork chop when I want something light and fast, but this thing is for those times when I want to rip a small spot with something that can fling and fit in tight spaces. You and your racing builds :p
Do you use bluejay for the esc? Because my motors run steaming hot after I fly, exactly like your build and tune, but I get 2 minutes only in the battery before it reaches 21v
I sure do! I have heard lately from quite a few people that the most recent version of bluejay is doing this on some quads. I have not personally had it happen to me, but it may be worth flashing back one version to see if that gets better. If it doesn't then you may have some source of resonance getting fed back into the gyro and expressed in d-term causing those hot motors. There are some things that can be done for that though, so lemme know if rolling back one version doesn't get it!
Did you have to re-pin the DJI O3 jst connector to the FC…or did it match as is?
on this one I did have to re pin. I believe it was exactly backwards from the stock pinout, so I took them all out and put them all back in the opposite order. If you plan on doing it just double check first, but I am pretty sure it was just a completely backwards pinout for that connector.
Nice Bro!
But how theese 3000kv motors handle 6s power?Isn't there a risk of burning them at full throttle?
Can it lift a full gopro 12?
Cool build this is something I wanted to build for a while. My 5” is really loud 😊. How come you didn’t put the capacitor on the xt60?The way how I fly I would have to put a buzzer on mine though lol
This one kind of sounds like a whistle unless you are super close to it, and even then it isn't as scary sounding as a bigger quad is. The main lead is actually pretty long on this one since it runs under the frame. There wasn't any room to run it over the O3 unit, and coming out the front was just as tight. I wound up using the Quadmula wire paths that go under the back of the bottom plate and back up the rear standoffs, so it would have been a little long for getting good performance out of a cap on the XT60. It was tough to get it in there, but after plenty of fiddling I got it, lol.
Did you change to the HQ 3x3x3 because they are better than the 3.1x3x4 props?
Have you tried the DALprop 3028?
Are the props in view on this one?
The props are a tad in view for sure! Having a really small wheel base makes it hard to not have them in view unless you start running more of a deadcat configuration. I do have a much better prop layout one in the works though :) I switched over to the 3x3x3 mostly due to durability on the quad blade props. Every crash would mean having a blade brake off due to the limited joining area as you increase blades. It works out well when you have ducts because they take the impact, but the tri blades do hold up a bit better. I like the Dal, just preferred to stick to the HQ since I liked the flexibility in their blade profile for a little additional smoothness.
question how are u using an xt60 connector on esc but running an xt30 battery?
I just run a little 30 to 60 adapter :) since the small side is on the battery, it won't ever be able to provide more than what the 30 is rated for so running a 60 up stream is safe. Doing it the other way around though where you have a 60 on the battery and a 30 on the quad is a great way to melt some plugs.
@BaconNinjaFPV Actually, big brain i thank you, Daddy fpv, for your knowledge 🙏
verry nice bro! but if you want to go the old analog path..... what vtx would be best?
Thank you!! For analog, I really like Rush, and for this build I would probably go with something like the Rush Tank Solo. Having a full watt in a small rugged package with the available 20x20 mounting in the rear of this frame would be pretty darn good!
Thanks I'll look it up 👍
is this guy flyable on 4s with this setup ?
Saadly in australia its over 100$ delivered,but i would still go for 1 over breaking baby apes,oh what was that frame you are going to use instead of darwins gear plz?..love your videos siren will be on my snail list....ssave save spend~love ya bro you n the family be safe n happy sugar free easter! adhd and sugar dont mix with 4n6 yr olds ..birthday girl today 4.okies take care~oh great live stream could see you overclocked
the brain processor to keep up,you done well.
The shipping in Aus always gets me how expensive it can get!!! I guess there are surcharges for dodging crocs and having the occasional kangaroo boxing match :p I am actually about to do a swap over on some darwin gear to a 2" frame in the next couple of weeks, but on the baby ape being a little larger I have run something like the HX115LR frame and put that same gear in it. A lighter frame is good for what the baby ape is running with the size motors it has on it. Happy birthday to her!!!!! Also, yes, my brain was a bit cooked after that one, lol.
Hi, Would you share the PID profile for Siren F3 ?
im honestly suprised that your able to go from hdz90 to djio3 and still be ok, i went from a caddx ant to a ratel 2, its about a similar difference in latency, and i honestly felt so disconnected, i had to go back to an ant, and i put the ratel2 on my plane, and its fine on the plane just trying to dive gaps or fly close to the ground or things, and you are doing your crazy mind bending freestyle with an o3 after using hdz90 its crazy, i wonder how much or if at all you personally notice the latency difference?
I do notice the latency difference, and the smoothness difference for sure. I have just found that I am pretty naturally inclined to adjust well after a couple packs of each and get back in the zone. It usually starts out by flying a little higher than I normally would after I switch over, but by the end of pack one I am right back close to the ground where I want to be. Now that isn't to say I don't crash more on one than the other, because I totally do :p
I really like the idea for the build. I would like to do something similar but under 250 grams. I'll probably go analog to save weight and money as all I have are analog goggles for now. I'm fairly new and waiting to switch to digital till I see how the whole remote ID thing plays out and who supports it the best, plus I still crash a lot so I'd rather have to replace an analog vtx than an expensive digital one.
Nothing wrong with analog most hardcore racers always fly analog
How’d that skystars mini hold up? I’m building a similar quad and really want to use this stack.
Haven't killed it yet! Lol. I have two of them now actually, and they are both rocking pretty well so far.
I have two 5” running 30x30 SStar HD stacks. Zero issues. I’m a fan by now. This will be the first mini. Thanks for the reply.
man i am thinking about gettin the quadmula f3 or speedybee 3.5 and what u think about the runcam ??????? bacon on the edge gopro or runcam
I'm building this f3 split. Did you plug the 03 unit in or solder it to the board? I want to make sure the 03 gets enough power..
I did use the plug on mine and it works great! :) Double check the pinout though because if I remember correctly it is exactly reversed on the plug they have in their FC. You may have to pull all of the pins out and re-pin it to line up correctly without shorting your air unit.
What's your flight time like on the 550?
Are you running a throttle limit to run 6son those motors? Im relatively new but planning a similar build and I thought 3000kv it to high on 6s.
No throttle limit on this one :) As the props get smaller, KV tends to go up quite a bit in the safe zones. Since the prop travels a shorter distance per revolution on smaller props we usually have to spin them faster as they get smaller. 3000kv on this is right at the top end of 6S use on 3", but for sure in the safe area. On 5" we usually don't go too far above 2000kv since they have a much longer tip travel path.
How much did this entire build cost with the o3? Trying to get into fpv and this would my first drone build.
With the O3 unit in it, this build runs somewhere between $500 and $600. Kinda expensive for a 3", but it sure is fun!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you
would it be slower with 1604 2850kv motors if built light?
Hello Bacon, i got one question for you. I love your build with your 3inch.. I have décided to follow the same philosophy. i built a similar one with à micro apex 4 frame. I got F2203.5 2850kv with speedybee f7 mini. I cannot fly it in 6s without puting à motor output limit at 60%... If not i got a death roll... 😢😢 Do u know what ?
The death roll is absolutely easier to find on this size build with bigger motors. What PWM frequency are you running, and are you doing bluejay or BLHeliS? I have found that lower PWM frequencies and some adjustments to the ESC like higher demag compensation and lower timing will really help with the rolls. I have had this one do it one time, but that was the only time it tried to.
@@BaconNinjaFPV i have flashed my esc to bluejay cause the stack is in bhelis. And i 'm using 96khz for pwm.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Hello Mister, just a little feedback. yesterday i have received my new set of 4 motors in 1500kv. I have removed the old ones in 2850kv this morning. I couldnt wait to see the difference. Amazing ! No more death rolls, no more desync. The blackbox is so perfect now with 0 gyro noise. I m so happy that even after 5 packs and so many freestyles tricks, this micro apex 4 fly even better than my 5inch after my tuning operation. Not enough word to send u my thanks and i have really appreciated your help cause it was so annoying to cannot fly this quad.... this fresh new build. thanks a French Pilot
I have a 3.5 in build using the same motors. What PIDS did you use?
Hey I copy your build it flys nice and smooth but motor are burning hot. And im having the desink problem. I know in the build descrition you mention “You may find that you want to run your ESC with demag compensation set to high and make adjustments to timing or ramp up power to avoid desyncs” I set mine to power set to 60%. Demag set to super high,timing at 26 still motors super hot any guideline will be appreciated
hmmmm, if you have tried those things but are still getting really hot motors there is a good chance that your build has a little more gyro feedback than what is ideal. Some things I would try for that though. First, make sure your stack screw nuts aren't too tight. If you are compressing the gummies too much then they wont properly isolate the FC and it will need way more filtering than normal. Next I would make sure you don't have any wires flopping near the gyro since that will act the same way. Last, make sure your m2 bolts going through the bottom plate are tight and seated all of the way. If that little puzzle piece doesn't sit properly it will cause some serious gyro noise issues. If all of that checks out, go to the PID tab in Betaflight and move your filter sliders a couple of notches to the left to see if that helps. If that does help, it is for sure a gyro noise issue.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks for the reply Tomorrow I will doble check all the nuts & screws and that little union part. Also I bulive my fc & esc nuts are too tight!I will let you know👌🏾
Stil geting hot motors. My BLheli is set 58 ramp up power, demag comp set to High, Motor timing set to 25 and pwm freq set low to 22 and high set to 50 is that sounds correct?
the 550 battery is xt30 and the 1300 is xt60, can you tell me if they both work with the same power cable on the drone or do i need an adapter for it? im new to the hobby
So I actually have an XT60 on the main lead of the quad and use an adapter to go from the XT30 of the battery to that XT60 when I use the smaller packs. When I am using the larger ones, they plug right in. The reason I did it that way is so I am never in a situation where the battery can provide more amps than the main lead connector can handle rather than going from an XT60 to an XT30 on the bigger packs and doing it the opposite way. I tend to like the ones that are built into a 4" cable so that there is a little extra room too :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV I just received my parts and wanna start build (exactly like yours) the only issue i have is the O3AU cables arrangement. help a dumb brother here, I need to know how to put colors in the right order before connecting and not frying it :(
I got back into flying again , I have a mark5 hd same one as you threw away, and a babyhawk, which i rarely use. i also have a mark5 hd extra fc and esc. what would you recommend i build? i would prefer to stick to 6s (since my mark 5 ) could i use components from the babyhawk ? such as the vista ? build a 3" 6s or 5"?
Hmmmm, that is a whole lot of decisions! You could absolutely use the Vista out of the babyhawk on just about any frame. As for using the FC and ESC that you have spare, that would probably be best in a 5" since they are sized for a Mark5HD. On a frame for that one there are a tooooon of options. I would recommend the Quadmula Siren F5 Split because it has been so great to fly over the past few months, but there are a ton of other choices as well depending on your budget.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks for the good info ninja, quadmula looks like a excellent choice
the motor stator formula you posted is incorrect. ...but new subscriber here
Have you tried a 3.5” quad yet? I swear that extra 1/2” makes a huge difference. 3” is so much less efficient. It’s just under the ideal weight to power ratio. You can double the flight time and maintain nearly the exact same flight characteristics with an extra 1/2”.
I sure have, and they are great! For this particular build, the power band of the motors along with the thrust to weight ratio and disk loading parameters were just what I happened to be looking for in it. It was never going to be a flight time rig for sure, wayyyyy too much motor and too little prop for that, lol. It was more about the ability to carry the weight in a particular way that let it feel like I wanted in the kind of moves that I do :) 3.5" is a great spot to be though for lots of other things!
@@BaconNinjaFPV I’d guess the 3” is more “flingable”. Probably tracks a little better too. It’s always a give and take 👍
Would really love to build 3.5" freestyle quad. I have geprc speedx2 2105.5 3450kv motor will it be suitable for 3.5" freestyle?
Zang!
Zang indeed!!!
Isn't 6S on a 3,000 kv motor a bit of overkill?
3000kv is about 8% higher than the average for 3" motors on heavier rigs, so not too much higher than you might typically see. I wanted this one to be able to carry a little more weight when it needed to, so that overage helps to accomplish it a bit :)
Hey,I'm planning a 3.5" with 2004 2900kV motors and 650 mah 6S lipo. What do you think? 😁
Greetings from Germany😊
I think you will be right on the edge when it comes to KV, but that is ok since you can just run a motor output limit if you start having any desync issues with it :) I am actually planning on doing something pretty similar soon!
@@BaconNinjaFPV ok i will try it.
oh nice! I am excited 😁
@@ricoz1748Hol dir die Amax 2004 2350kv motoren mit gemfan 3630 props für deinen 3.5" 6S build. Echt der wahnsinn.
@@chrisbee5481 mittlerweile ist er fertig aufgebaut mit den 2900kv Motoren. Das Teil ist einfach nur krank.. 180km/h laut GPS da kann mein 5inch einpacken 😂
@@ricoz1748 welche propeller und Frame? 180 ist top.
Wieviel Ampere zieht der denn spitze? Weil 2900kv auf 6S hörst sich viel an 😆
How well does the Skystars F722HD Pro K55A Stack fit in that frame? I'm looking at the same stack but worried the esc wont fit in it
This size for freestyle really interests me. I picked up a speedybee flex25 for cheap and I'm thinking of converting it to a 3inch like this on 4s. What do yall think?
hmmmmmm, if you can get the props in there since it is a whooped pusher, then I suppose that would work! I do think though that you may hit a limit on the prop overlap between the front and rear motors if you go any bigger than the 2.5", but there is only one way to find out, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I guess I wasn't very clear with my first comment I want to pick a new frame to swap the flex25 components onto. Something without the overlapping layout. I don't have the funds for a build but I got the flex so cheap my first thought was to use the parts on a new frame.
@@dustinwilson492 ohhhhh, I see, that makes a whole lot more sense to me now. I am actually looking at a few frames this month that would be great for that at reasonable prices. Those bigger motors are going to need something kind of stuff, so toothpick or thin frames would be hard to keep resonance minimal on. GEPRC makes a smart 25 frame that would be a good option, and I have one on the bench from Unger CNC that is looking really promising for 2"-3" builds. I would say this Quadmula frame could do it too, but you may be into needing something different ESC wise due to the extra weight of it.
@@BaconNinjaFPV ok so I need a light conventional freestyle frame. I was wondering about the 35 amp esc. I don't need a beast just looking to move up from my baby ape. The flex seems really strong on lower rpm but nothing at the top of the range. I was wondering how much of that was prop or loss of thrust from the cramped layout.
Would it be safe to use the SpeedyBee 405 mini 20x20 Stack with these 2004 motors?
nice one i need this too xD
Any recommendations for someone who has the HDZero platform and not DJI for this build?
Thanks
what do you think about the 2004 motors? i think most ppl running 6s are running 1604 2850kv ish motors. and do you have a favourite mah for 6s for more freestyle for this 3”
grat video as alway!!!!!!!!!!!
Would you recommend 2004 over 1604? I get 2004 would have more power. But what about efficiency.
It's a shame that manufacturers don't make quads like the diatone gt r369 anymore.
Awesome.
I really hope we see more of them as the market develops this year! If there were ever a year to bring them back, this one would be one, lol.
Interested of throwing them give one to me 😢
im giving a bunch of stuff away in another video series :) started a couple of weeks ago and is going to keep going for another few weeks!
@BaconNinjaFPV that's awesome 👌🏻 question I'm wanting to get into the hobby do you have a video or advice on what controller beginners should get?
Doing a speedybee35 with 2205 iflight xing 3250kv. Axis flying argus f7 aio, 03 unit. Got 89mm 8 blades and HQ 90mm 3 bladdes to try. Thinking 4s but might try 6 😉 got yellow guards and leds. Going gps and buzzer on this one. Got a YMZFPV starship x1 that was great little 2.5" quad but got in wet grass and only 1 side working. Thinking about another axis flying argus f7 for it if that works good. Also have cinebot25 s that is fun 😁 still learning. 7" with dalprops and darwinfpv f7 is easiest so far😁 keep the bacon coming!!
if I would go build one with the same parts you list but in 4S, what motors can you recommend in that case?
I am a big fan of the Hyperlite 2005.5's at 2622kv - i have this motor and i like it a lot... but i am a shyte pilot so i'm not so sure i really know what's what (Hyperlite also has a 3122kv motor with awesome reviews, that kv is a bit high, but the reviews say it's awesome).
Also you can also check out the RCINPOWER GTS V3 2105 motors - these motors rip! For 4s they come in 2950kv. Again a bit high in kv but not as much as the Hyperlites.
Then you can check out the iFlight Xing2 1806 2500KV - good stator volume and a brand that has been around for a long time and is known for quality and performance.
Really you almost can't go wrong nowadays as quality and performance have all become pretty good across the range of products. For more info you can also go to where these are sold and read reviews there as well.
As Bacon Ninja said in this video, the stator volume is a key item and the 2004 motors have a volume of around 1256,
The Hyperlites above have a volume about 1728 (a big jump up from 1256...)
The RCin motor is just about the same as the Hyperlite at 1731
The IFlight Xing2's are 1526 so right in the middle of this range.
Good luck and have fun!
I dare say 3", 3.5" will over take 5"
It is entirely possible that we see a large jump in the options in that size class before the end of the year!
@@BaconNinjaFPV
Because of remote ID?
Interesting I love my smart35 although I haven’t tried a 5 yet
That's what she said 😂
I barely fly 5 inch anymore most my 3 inch fly just like a 5 inh
I got GepRC SPEEDX2 1804 2450kv laying around do u think it will work for this build ?
If you were to upgrade this build to the best of the best parts not thinking about costs at all. How would the specs look? (Motors, FC, ESC. battery setup and props)