Here is an idea. Whenever anyone gets a new lawn tractor they should remove the rear wheels and paint the axles, keyways and hub with Never-seez so they never have this problem in the first place.
If you are lucky enough to be able to buy a new lawn tractor, hopefully you are smart enough to read the owner's manual where it tells you to do this exact same thing. Duh! Almost every customer that comes into my shop with this problem has never done this relatively simple maintenance item, and so it falls to me to educate them and then fix the problem. Costly for them, to say the least. I guess "real men don't read instructions."
I feel this guys pain. This is a good video as it shows you just not to bother unless you're properly tooled up. Just tried on my MTD for about 5 minutes and gave it up as a bad job. Not wasting my time on it. The more you heat and hit it the more chance you'll screw it up, and possibly the transaxle as well. Not gonna mess about drilling the hubs, making pullers, torching etc. Took the tyres off in situe while I removed and stripped the transaxle as it was stuck. Think it was swarf in the gears. All freed up and regreased and now good. I'll just refit the old tyres and tube them in situe.
I tried doing it 4 hrs and gave up. But at the end of the video you gave me what was my solution 🤘🏼🤘🏼👌😄 I mounted the tire with the rim in place. Just for that. Im gonna say it was a successful video. Yipiiiii
This is exactly the method I employ. The problem, as you see, is breaking inertia. I don't have welders and other specialty tools. The important thing missing is vibration, as in an impact wrench effect. At the point where you have the puller under good tension. bang on the head of the forcing screw and from behind on the cross bars at the wheel rim. Continue tightening and pounding. Although yours may be rusted beyond saving.
Try the Hot / Cold Method.... Tips: Get a Torch and heat around it until RED HOT... DO NOT heat the Axle. Once it's HOT, use Cold Water + Garden Hose or Bucket and splash it really quick, keep adding Water. Now try removing it after cooling down.... If that doesn't work, do it again, sometimes 2-3X will do it!!! By using Hot / Cold method, you are expanding / contracting the " rust "! *NOTE:* *Remove ALL the Air Out of your Tire when doing this method!*
I did the same thing on my MTD. You wouldn't believe how hard I pulled on my wheels. I used 3/4 in plate steel and still can't budge. I changed tires on the mower, it isn't too bad, but trying to get the new ones to take a bead was the worst!
you spent waaaaaay more time on that than i would have done. They sell steering wheel pullers for $20...drill holes to match the size and boom! I actually have the same problem on a weedeater one rider...however, it was a Hurricane sandy vivtim...so the whole shaft is seized from salt water rust for years. Even if I got the wheel off, the transaxle still wont spin...
Pomona Dawgpound I had the same problem but I gave up a little earlier than you , I drilled the keyway out ,when that didn't help !! I removed the tyre and replaced it ,with tube and happy to know won't come off!! Have a good one buddy!!😄😂👍🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Same problem here. If you wanted your angle iron stronger you should have drilled into the angle. As it would then pull down onto the two legs of the Iron. Not saying that would work in yours or my case, I am just saying it would have been stronger than the two next methods you tried, making a box. Nice welding job!
Lancaster PA your only problem: heat is what will loosen your wheel. Each time you heated it TOO LITTLE and THEN you QUENCHED your heat with the. WD-40. Quenching the heat instantly makes it reseize, even if you ever DID get the tube hot enough to release.
You could try knocking the rim inward a tiny bit to loosen it. Put a socket that fits over the axle on an extension and pound it inward. Even a small movement might free it up.
as a mechanic for 45 years you will find as I have all the heat in the world will not break some of the wheels on mowers or rototillers made by mtd will not come off. I have wheels soaked in penetrating oil for weeks, then heated with an oxy acetline torch and a good wheel puller applied and all that happened was to strip the threads on the puller. Final solution was ti use the torch to cut the wheels off. When I buy any thing with removable wheels after I take it home I remove the wheels. If they wont come off when new they will never come off. RETURN IT.
Rust Welded on the axil, I know the frustration, I spent two days and tried everything and then I see a you tube a guy used an air hammer i tried it and it worked. I guess the vibrations is what loosen up the rust weld.
I had the very same trouble but I had new and bigger garage sale wheels to replace the failing tube slime filled 35 year old tires. After doing everything I could think of and spraying it with penetrating oil over a week or two, heating it and doing the same thing as you with angle iron. Then I borrowed my mechanic friends Snap On tool and it didn't budge the damn thing. I finally I drilled some holes so I could get my sawzall in and cut the wheel off the sawed length wise on the axel, hammered a cold chisel to separate it and after that afternoon it was free! Had my new used tires with wheels for $12 only been the tires, I think I'd still be trying to get it off! The plastic cap had come off and that thin coat of rust held like epoxy! Oh yes, the other side back tire? It took all of 5 minuets. But ain't that the way it goes! But we've acquired some know how and a bit of wisdom through our experiences! And when you think of it we learn from our hardships. Thanks Kindly! DaveyJO in Pa.
I don't want to come off as a smart a------,but you were on the right path,but not enough heat. Oxy/acet, oxy/propane torch heated till dull cherry red and a modest puller will get it off. Let the hub cool slowly afterwards to keep the metal ductile. Maybe map gas would have worked. You just needed more heat.
Save yourself a lot a time and work. Get 3 cans of foam insulation , pull out your valve core insert tube from can into valve stem put in all 3 cans or until it quits going in. Put valve stem back in let it set couple days off ground you be in good shape for long time
NOT GOING TO WORK !! The first thing that will happen when you try it this way is the rim will bend. Heating the out side and the inside may work if it's not stuck too badly. BUT the rim is hollow so there is a 2 to 3 inch section INSIDE the rim that doesn't get heated, so you have to burn a hole in the rim to get the torch in there. If you try to beat it off from the inside out you have to be careful you don't pull the axle out of the differential if that happens then at least you can take rim. axle and all some place where they can press the rim off.. Sometimes it's easier to just leave the rim on the tractor and change the tire while it's on there.
He showed what didn't work which is something of a help. Plus he mentions some of what could have made it work such as using channel. And, along with viewers comments, it makes a good starting point for someone else. Sometimes it just one little thing that makes a big difference such as moving the pulling rods closer to the hub to center the force.
+Pomona Dawgpound I followed you lead. The wheels stayed on the tractor but I couldn't break the tire bead so out came the sawzall and cut the tires off. One was filled with that tire sealant and was quite messy. I cleaned up the wheels and mounted the new tires. The tractor is up and running after sitting outside for 7 years.
+Dave Bucher BRAVO, I think you have the BEST idea on this one :). I don't want to RUIN my Tire :((((. It's a JD 60, I want to keep the Original Tire :((((
Do it the easy way don't remove the rim pull the tire off the rim on the tractor. Put a new valve stem in clean the rim if needed lube up the new tire reinstall it.
hey bud I got same problem with mind.did you ever get it off? I am fixing to take my 963 loader and tie a chain to wheel and anchor the lawn mower to a tree and pull the hell out of it.I grant you something is going to give but I don't no what!!!!
Really you need a cutting torch to get it really hot and pour cold water on it You’ll destroy wheel if it’s not hot enough Once throw water on it put air hammer on it
If all you need to do is replace the tire ????? Then just change it on the Lawnmower, lol. It holds its pretty stationary, pull the tire off, new stem and tire and your good to go. Paul Neighbors Economy tire Kemp Tx.
I got one side off easy but the other wheel is a sob. Troy built CRT tiller. I'm going to try to use a cutting wheel to cut along the wheel long ways on the wheel shaft. Along the edge of the axle or use a air chisel to split the wheel tube long ways.
When you are done with that, go ahead and cut the damn thing off. Mine looked 100 times newer and is stuck tighter than a crabs ass. Burn around the hub and split the bushing with grinder.
Looking for help with a similar problem? .....then look elsewhere. This shows you how NOT to do it. The only problem is that the video waits until the end before the 'presenter' tell you that he is going to give up!!!
I've never seen one with a plastic sleeve on the rear wheels. Usually a slip fit with a keyway. I have seen plastic sleeves on the front. If there was room for a plastic sleeve, these things would come right off.
HEAT and COLD.
Heat it up.
Then drench with WATER and quickly cool down.
Thanks TARYL.
Here is an idea. Whenever anyone gets a new lawn tractor they should remove the rear wheels and paint the axles, keyways and hub with Never-seez so they never have this problem in the first place.
If you are lucky enough to be able to buy a new lawn tractor, hopefully you are smart enough to read the owner's manual where it tells you to do this exact same thing. Duh! Almost every customer that comes into my shop with this problem has never done this relatively simple maintenance item, and so it falls to me to educate them and then fix the problem. Costly for them, to say the least. I guess "real men don't read instructions."
@@mtcman42 For the price of a new lawnmower they should do it at the factory.
I feel this guys pain. This is a good video as it shows you just not to bother unless you're properly tooled up. Just tried on my MTD for about 5 minutes and gave it up as a bad job. Not wasting my time on it. The more you heat and hit it the more chance you'll screw it up, and possibly the transaxle as well. Not gonna mess about drilling the hubs, making pullers, torching etc. Took the tyres off in situe while I removed and stripped the transaxle as it was stuck. Think it was swarf in the gears. All freed up and regreased and now good. I'll just refit the old tyres and tube them in situe.
I spent all day trying to do this. What a pain in the ass!
I tried doing it 4 hrs and gave up. But at the end of the video you gave me what was my solution 🤘🏼🤘🏼👌😄 I mounted the tire with the rim in place. Just for that. Im gonna say it was a successful video. Yipiiiii
This is exactly the method I employ. The problem, as you see, is breaking inertia. I don't have welders and other specialty tools. The important thing missing is vibration, as in an impact wrench effect. At the point where you have the puller under good tension. bang on the head of the forcing screw and from behind on the cross bars at the wheel rim. Continue tightening and pounding. Although yours may be rusted beyond saving.
Try the Hot / Cold Method.... Tips: Get a Torch and heat around it until RED HOT... DO NOT heat the Axle. Once it's HOT, use Cold Water + Garden Hose or Bucket and splash it really quick, keep adding Water. Now try removing it after cooling down.... If that doesn't work, do it again, sometimes 2-3X will do it!!! By using Hot / Cold method, you are expanding / contracting the " rust "! *NOTE:* *Remove ALL the Air Out of your Tire when doing this method!*
There is a video where same concept but he used log chain around back of wheel and then a 20 ton bottle jack pushing on axle.
I have the same issue. Was watching til the end with any hope this would work!! 😂
I did the same thing on my MTD. You wouldn't believe how hard I pulled on my wheels. I used 3/4 in plate steel and still can't budge. I changed tires on the mower, it isn't too bad, but trying to get the new ones to take a bead was the worst!
Yeah thats what I ended up doing because I couldn't get them off, so I changed them while still on.....what a pain in the butt.
A friend of mine told me to use Armour All as a lubricant for the beads, it works great.
you spent waaaaaay more time on that than i would have done. They sell steering wheel pullers for $20...drill holes to match the size and boom! I actually have the same problem on a weedeater one rider...however, it was a Hurricane sandy vivtim...so the whole shaft is seized from salt water rust for years. Even if I got the wheel off, the transaxle still wont spin...
You gave it a great shot!!😄👍
Thanks.
Pomona Dawgpound I had the same problem but I gave up a little earlier than you , I drilled the keyway out ,when that didn't help !! I removed the tyre and replaced it ,with tube and happy to know won't come off!! Have a good one buddy!!😄😂👍🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Thats what I ended up doing, just replacing the tire while it was still on the tractor....lol
Did you make a video of that @@TreasureGeo
Same problem here. If you wanted your angle iron stronger you should have drilled into the angle. As it would then pull down onto the two legs of the Iron. Not saying that would work in yours or my case, I am just saying it would have been stronger than the two next methods you tried, making a box. Nice welding job!
Lancaster PA your only problem: heat is what will loosen your wheel. Each time you heated it TOO LITTLE and THEN you QUENCHED your heat with the. WD-40. Quenching the heat instantly makes it reseize, even if you ever DID get the tube hot enough to release.
You could try knocking the rim inward a tiny bit to loosen it. Put a socket that fits over the axle on an extension and pound it inward. Even a small movement might free it up.
as a mechanic for 45 years you will find as I have all the heat in the world will not break some of the wheels on mowers or rototillers made by mtd will not come off. I have wheels soaked in penetrating oil for weeks, then heated with an oxy acetline torch and a good wheel puller applied and all that happened was to strip the threads on the puller. Final solution was ti use the torch to cut the wheels off. When I buy any thing with removable wheels after I take it home I remove the wheels. If they wont come off when new they will never come off. RETURN IT.
Rust Welded on the axil, I know the frustration, I spent two days and tried everything and then I see a you tube a guy used an air hammer i tried it and it worked. I guess the vibrations is what loosen up the rust weld.
I got the same problem here in Oz mate, open up the esky and call it👍
More heat on both sides once done cool fast with water hose. Saw that on Terels utube
I had the very same trouble but I had new and bigger garage sale wheels to replace the failing tube slime filled 35 year old tires. After doing everything I could think of and spraying it with penetrating oil over a week or two, heating it and doing the same thing as you with angle iron. Then I borrowed my mechanic friends Snap On tool and it didn't budge the damn thing. I finally I drilled some holes so I could get my sawzall in and cut the wheel off the sawed length wise on the axel, hammered a cold chisel to separate it and after that afternoon it was free! Had my new used tires with wheels for $12 only been the tires, I think I'd still be trying to get it off! The plastic cap had come off and that thin coat of rust held like epoxy! Oh yes, the other side back tire? It took all of 5 minuets. But ain't that the way it goes! But we've acquired some know how and a bit of wisdom through our experiences! And when you think of it we learn from our hardships. Thanks Kindly! DaveyJO in Pa.
I don't want to come off as a smart a------,but you were on the right path,but not enough heat. Oxy/acet, oxy/propane torch heated till dull cherry red and a modest puller will get it off. Let the hub cool slowly afterwards to keep the metal ductile. Maybe map gas would have worked. You just needed more heat.
Thanks
Save yourself a lot a time and work. Get 3 cans of foam insulation , pull out your valve core insert tube from can into valve stem put in all 3 cans or until it quits going in. Put valve stem back in let it set couple days off ground you be in good shape for long time
NOT GOING TO WORK !! The first thing that will happen when you try it this way is the rim will bend. Heating the out side and the inside may work if it's not stuck too badly. BUT the rim is hollow so there is a 2 to 3 inch section INSIDE the rim that doesn't get heated, so you have to burn a hole in the rim to get the torch in there. If you try to beat it off from the inside out you have to be careful you don't pull the axle out of the differential if that happens then at least you can take rim. axle and all some place where they can press the rim off.. Sometimes it's easier to just leave the rim on the tractor and change the tire while it's on there.
You are correct about the title, this video is of little use to anyone with the same problem.
He showed what didn't work which is something of a help. Plus he mentions some of what could have made it work such as using channel. And, along with viewers comments, it makes a good starting point for someone else. Sometimes it just one little thing that makes a big difference such as moving the pulling rods closer to the hub to center the force.
I have the same problem now, what did you end up doing?
+Dave Bucher I left the rim on the axle and removed tire while it was on axle, then installed a new one......Pain in the but.
+Pomona Dawgpound I followed you lead. The wheels stayed on the tractor but I couldn't break the tire bead so out came the sawzall and cut the tires off. One was filled with that tire sealant and was quite messy. I cleaned up the wheels and mounted the new tires. The tractor is up and running after sitting outside for 7 years.
+Dave Bucher Good job. I pretty much cut mine also.....LOL
+Dave Bucher BRAVO, I think you have the BEST idea on this one :). I don't want to RUIN my Tire :((((. It's a JD 60, I want to keep the Original Tire :((((
I'm tired of waiting. It's's been almost 6 years. Did you get that wheel off?
Hahahahah no.
should have tried drilling the holes closer to the center...more force with less bending.
Good Call
Do it the easy way don't remove the rim pull the tire off the rim on the tractor. Put a new valve stem in clean the rim if needed lube up the new tire reinstall it.
Did you ever get the wheel off?
Hahahahahaha, No.
You need an acetylene torch. Butane does not give enough heat
41 year weldor.
use a oxygen cutting torch heat up the inside the rim get it hot and beat it off with a shop hammer i did and it works for me
see taryl fixes all.. he heats up wheel hub cherry red then quences with water several times then pushes wheel off with impact hammer
Perfect that way!
Easier solution' put an inner tube in the tire on the mower. takes about 30 minutes for both and a lot less aggravation and damage to the transaxle.
Could not get mines off either! Just going to spray it W-d40 for month and try again.
If you have that time to wait, it just might work. Let us know how it turns out.
hey bud I got same problem with mind.did you ever get it off? I am fixing to take my 963 loader and tie a chain to wheel and anchor the lawn mower to a tree and pull the hell out of it.I grant you something is going to give but I don't no what!!!!
You will have better luck breaking the tire bead on the tractor and putting in a inner tube. A big C clamp is what I used to break the bead on mine.
I have one just like that and having the same problem
when i get my wheel off i will mow the grass and remove the wheel everytime i park it.
Really you need a cutting torch to get it really hot and pour cold water on it
You’ll destroy wheel if it’s not hot enough
Once throw water on it put air hammer on it
Just use a bottle jack and a couple of chains, works well,no mess.
Check it out on utube.
Sir, I don't think you are pulling on the tire....your pulling on the frame
If all you need to do is replace the tire ????? Then just change it on the Lawnmower, lol.
It holds its pretty stationary, pull the tire off, new stem and tire and your good to go.
Paul Neighbors
Economy tire Kemp Tx.
I was changing the rim as well
I’m right where you were, I have a troybilt tiller and can’t get the wheel off
Drill a hole where the lock nuts go
I got one side off easy but the other wheel is a sob. Troy built CRT tiller. I'm going to try to use a cutting wheel to cut along the wheel long ways on the wheel shaft. Along the edge of the axle or use a air chisel to split the wheel tube long ways.
foam the tire
Fill tire with foam ,, leave wheel on
When you are done with that, go ahead and cut the damn thing off. Mine looked 100 times newer and is stuck tighter than a crabs ass. Burn around the hub and split the bushing with grinder.
Use square tubing or solid pipe
If it is solid it is not pipe
Chain and bottle jack
Not a good idea to have a dog barking in the background!
Rose bud and get it hot as hell and water hose it then air hammer to it
try 3/8 x1.5 bar stock
Maybe WD40 wasn't the best choice penetrate, great effort, can rent stronger tools.
It seems to me you are confusing a cigarette lighter for a torch
Drill a 🕳️ where the lock nut go
Looking for help with a similar problem? .....then look elsewhere. This shows you how NOT to do it. The only problem is that the video waits until the end before the 'presenter' tell you that he is going to give up!!!
Hey imagine that, you wonder why the title says, TRYING TO REMOVE. Says nothing about removing.
MTD he mused...
Fuck I hope I don't have that muchtimewithbullshit
get red hot then quench it with water hose. It will fall off.
Makes the metal brittle.
@@michaelsweeney9282 it a lawnmower not the spaceshuddle!!!!!!
Harob freight puller62620
There’s a plastic sleeve in there
I've never seen one with a plastic sleeve on the rear wheels. Usually a slip fit with a keyway. I have seen plastic sleeves on the front. If there was room for a plastic sleeve, these things would come right off.
Don't waste your time watching this. He can't get it off.
you posted a fail, you are so unquaified stay with oil changing