Making a 1940's Cotton Poplin Dress // Drafting a Gathered Neckline
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2021
- This week as the temperatures rose I made a simple summer dress in a breezy bug print cotton poplin! I closed the front waist darts to open them into gathering at the neckline instead.
And yes my hair is green again, I'm afraid the purple just didn't seem villainous enough 💚🧛♀️💚
Fabric from Mood, not sponsored
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound and the RUclips audio library.
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! 
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Great dress. "If seeing my stitching bothers you, you are probably too close." Love it.
Thank you Paula!
Please skillshare sponsor this great woman a "I'm learning to size up and down patterns" - video, because I realy need to be able to buy them
Ha! You could make one I promise!! I'll try and teach how 😅
"Colorado. It's a strange place."
This native fully concurs.
Such a nice style I think it would even look flattering on my plus size figure.
Thank you Katherine!
That neckline is so flattering! I love how you make most of your patterns starting with your basic block. It makes the process feel attainable to me, and teaches great skills along the way.
I just started my first peasant blouse with your tutorial. It will be my second wearable garment!
Congratulations,I hope you're very happy with it,
Thank you! I hope the peasant blouse came out grand!
Yes, It hi k I just watched her make a block from a pattern and then I wanted to know how to use it in other things. But this is a great example!!
Honestly, since i begun handstitching my hems and handfelling most of my seam, i've come to love the effect of the tiny stitches coming through on the right side of the garment
I am fairly new here, and I GASPED when you said you don’t like pockets 😆
Every time I hear people mention pockets it’s always with delight that a pattern does have them or that they are definitely putting in pockets even though the pattern doesn’t include them.
I’m a huge fan of pockets myself, but it’s refreshing hearing someone say they don’t like them ☺️
Yeah I am a big fan of handbags so I find pockets superfluous lol 😅
I'm right there with you on the bugs. I LOVE the spider aesthetic but I have crippling arachnophobia when it comes to the critters irl 😅
I really love this dress! And it's so simple! I think I need one 💜
Thank you! Spider web fabric=good, spider sighting=bad!!
@@TheClosetHistorian exactly!
That is my favorite kind of novelty print… it doesn’t reveal its secrets until you get up close :) This dress is a winner! Hope you have somewhere fun to wear it soon 🤞🖤
Thank you Susan!
This, absolutely, always. I remember being really tempted by some of the Spoonflower social distancing prints, with the idea of "if you were actually 6ft away, you wouldn't be able to see the swearing," but the comments were full of people saying the scale was too large. And then some of the cute prints I bought initially ended up more appropriate for a baby blanket than a face mask. Why is the cute little dinosaur 4" long?
What you're explaining is perfectly understandable!
Thank you 😅
Amen to hemming curves with bias binding!! I made a couple of skirts' for my friend's traditional wedding in February and the bias binding method was such a time saver!!
I made a dress with a border of patchwork that has a bias binding to finish the hem. It’s awesome!
I don't sew...don't intend to start. I am sewing challenged. But I enjoy your channel. I love to see artists create any thing from wood to cloth. Keep up the chat.😍
Thank you Jennifer! ❤
No side zips and pockets couldn’t agree more …. That’s why we have bags ladies ❤️
Handbag collecting is a whole hobby of mine 😅
I have been watching all your videos as I re learn my sewing skills. I haven’t sewn for 20 years and am really enjoying getting back into it. You are delightful and your instructions are so helpful! I’m encouraged to keep going and sew myself a whole new wardrobe of clothes. I really appreciate all the time you put into these videos thank you so much for doing this.
Thank you Eva!
Also, I love how you just came at the shoulder with the scissors and then made the darts. That was -- not what I was expecting.
I always sew my bias and then finish the inside by hand. I hate topstitching and even ditch stitching.. I basically hate visible stitching in general 😂 one thing I do differently: when you were finishing the sleeves, you just overlapped the bias. I usually pin the bias on whatever I'm finishing, then I sew both ends just like you did to make a longer strip of bias. It prevents bulk and it looks great too. I don't know if it makes sense, but you can also measure the sleeve width and then sew a complete circle of bias and then attach that circle to the sleeves.
Yeah I do this too. Whenever I just overlap it I hate the bulk but power to you Bianca for doing what you fancy!
I pin the strip around the sleeve leaving about 2 inches loose at either end. Then take it to the machine and mark the overlap point with a pin on both pieces. Then set it up like a usual bias strip join and you have a perfect circle which fits the sleeve. It's such a nice touch!
@@TayaSews you worded it better than I did, but it's exactly what I do.
Yes this sounds even nicer indeed! I'm just...lazy 😅 It's true lol
I've been putting off hemming a rayon circle skirted dress that I made for my sister for months cos I can't figure out my Singer 99K's hemming foot, you've convinced me to try hemming it with bias.
I have actually never tried hemming feet 😅 Changing the presser foot? Too much effort for me 🤣 I didn't even used to do it for zippers until I got a different machine and had to!
Is everything just going to ignore how she cut her bais freehand?
That is terrifying.
There is a line to follow I promise! I can't cut perfect 2 inch strips 😅
I don’t think it’s so horrific. She is showing us she knows what to do!!!!
Oh thank you! Was having a difficult day till I saw a video by you. Now I'm cheered!
This happens so often for me too. Bianca, I hope you realise how much you've positively contributed to world mental health!
Thank you! Glad I could help, I am always relieved to see uploads on a rough day too ❤
I was born in Wisconsin but I lived in Colorado for about 18 or so years and you're so right about the weather there. Now that I think about it, Wisconsin has pretty much the same weather. I remember one time driving through the mountains and it was sunny, then it rained, and then it snowed all in a matter of minutes. We don't have that here in Wisconsin since we don't have mountains, but still very similar weather none the less. Short spring and fall, long cold winters and hot, hot summers.
There was one time when I was in a car crossing the desert in California (in February) and it started snowing, snow on cactus is a very odd sight! Weather can get weird ha!
You get into “sew speak” after you become saturated with explaining your process. LOL. I love that fabric and the fabric you wore in the intro. Great project! This year, 2022, I hope to do a SEWING WITH THE CLOSET HISTORIAN project. This dress with the gathers is a definite contender for that project. I would love to have a dress made like this. Thank you for posting it.
Thank you Shirley!
Love de design:) about the zipper: have you ever heard of „riri zippers“ (actually „riri Reissverschluss“ since it‘s a swiss brand)? They make very sturdy but also very fine metal zippers that lay very flat. They are available in every colour and lenght imaginable, though they are more expensive than regular zippers. They do however have a lifetime warranty on their zippers, so...
Thank you! These sound amazing I shall have to look into them!
That ikea duvet cover dress is one of my favorites! This dress came out so nice too! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Anya!
It's very helpful that you connected the dots from the standard bodice block, to the all-in-one bodice, to the gathered neckline bodice. It is very clear where the fullness is moving. Yes, I see what you mean about the strong shoulders and the angle of the cap sleeve. It makes your waist and hips look perfect. The "rules" say that your skirt should not hit at the widest part of the calf, but your legs look nice. The proportions are so flattering. It's classic, not specifically vintage. LOVE the styling on the blue dress and the white one. The prints are so different that they don't look like the same pattern. I can't decide which I like more: this pattern or the mermaid flounce. Or the asymmetric draped skirt. Yeah, no, I like all of them.
I am always breaking the "rules" when it comes to sewing. I can't blame others for doing the same. Stylish comfort always wins. My hems have to land where they don't tickle.
Thank you Amy Jane! I agree that a dress like this without vintage styling and hair/makeup would look pretty "normal" and classic with modern styling. I always like my skirts on the longer side for proportion reasons indeed, I hadn't thought about the calf issue! Perhaps one can get away with such things if they wear even higher heels 😂
Thank you for another wonderful video. I so enjoy watching you sew. Thanks again
Thank you! 🧵
Your sewing machine makes me so nostalgic. I learned to sew on my mom's 1953 Singer. I loved that machine.
Those paper scissors are fierce!
I like the detail effect of the lighter shade.
Crazy how I'm watching this literally a year from you making this when I was curious to see how clothes are created with the same material I happened to purchase.
I still have a yard of the white colorway of this fabric to make a blouse out of sometime 😂
@@TheClosetHistorian niceee!
Okay, your comment “working on it, through exposure therapy” had me rolling on the floor laughing. I am an ichthyophobic. Yup, my family has some….exposure therapy stories.
The dress is gorgeous.
Your pattern explanation is fabulous! I have had so many aha moments!
Thank you!!!!
Thank you!
Another gorgeous dress, so love how you break the rules about us ladies who are large busted cannot wear high necklines and look amazing.
Love love love! Now I know how to move a dart!
You are so talented. I've been binge watching your channel all day and have learned so much. And by the way, you have such an elegant classy look like you stepped right out of the pages of a 1940's fashion magazine. Everything I've watched you design and sew is just gorgeous and looks fabulous on you. Thank you so much for giving so much of your time to educate us.
Thank you Cathleen!!
I know I say it every time but it all just makes sense the way you explain it. And it makes such a different how I view patterns now.
Thank you Kaytie!
I'm glad you mention your mistakes in your videos. With a lot of my projects it seems like I'm seam ripping more than I'm sewing so to know that someone like you, who makes such nice polished pieces, regularly makes mistakes is encouraging.
Everybody makes mistakes. I've shared so many funny stories with friends of sewing mistakes made late at night lol
Late at night is indeed the most dangerous time to be sewing!
I have just copied your pattern using my tried and tested pattern, and made a toile . I am more than thrilled with the result Thank you for your tutorial and crystal clear instructions. I'll be rocking a gathered neckline dress of my own very soon. I'm looking forward to your next sewing video.
Thank you Valerie! I'm glad you gave it a try! ❤
@@TheClosetHistorian I won't be buying anymore patterns now that I have learned about dart manipulation...Thank you so much . P S My first CH dress is well on the way. I only have to decide on the style of skirt
That fabric is just so cute.
This is too advanced for where I am starting to sew, but you encouraged me to keep learning because I love the dress. 🙂
You look so elegant in everything you do!!!
Thank you! Not...walking I promise 😂 and I cannot dance!
Such a pretty dress! Love the bug print!
Thank you! I wish there were more cute bug print fabrics 😂
You aren't speaking Klingon... you might overthink or doubt yourself when you're trying to explain your methods, though. You do an excellent job demonstrating and narrating.
That blue looks marvelous on you! *chef kiss*
Klingon is from Star Trek :)
@@kckazcoll1 yes, but I could not think of another language. I thought it was fitting.
Thank you Jo! I don't script these so I'm always afraid I'm speaking riddles 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian you don't need a script. You have a strong natural flow.
That beetle print is so delightful! I'd love to make a summer blouse with this modification at some point. I have some lovely lightweight plaid cotton that would be perfect for it!
Thank you Avery! I have made more blouses with this mod than dresses so far, but it may just even out soon!
Love the dress … looks GREAT on you!!! You do very well teaching your method(s)!!!! ♥️♥️♥️💐💐💐
I'm fairly new to this channel, but think she could make some really great tutorials, for YT, of course. But maybe even offer other tutorials in her shop(or unlocked versions in a Patreon) for pay. She deserves exposure and more support. I think she would be a really good teacher if she wanted to put that hat on, too.(See what I did?)
Thank you Alice!
It’s funny that you talked about the first tutorial on this neckline because I watched it first and the whole time I was thinking “man this must be an early one cuz it’s all over the place”. Glad you redid it!
Yeah I had to learn and hopefully will keep improving lol 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian you are doing great! Best drafting explanations I’ve found, at least for my brain. Weirdo stuff is a bonus 😀
Great tutorial. Happy pride!
Thank you Chelsey!
Love the fabric!!!! I designed a beetle damask for the cushions in my tiny conservatory and I love people's reactions when they realise what the pattern is.
Thank you for the video!
Thank you Maleah! Beetle upholstery sounds most excellent indeed!
Have always absolutely Loved this most flattering design ~ neckline treatment ! Thank you for the excellent (as always!) video!
Thank you Diana!
"How much hemming do we really need to watch me do?" -- I would watch hours and hours of hemming happily, especially if the video were real time :))))))) --ivinenn
!
Well thank you 😅
Nice novelty print fabric, very feminine. Never go out of style.
Thank you Renee!
Ooh that neckline! This is such a gorgeous outfit!! Oh my gosh, I have these 2 t-shirts from George (from Walmart) that I adore cuz they have a very flattering neckline - it's a V neck but gathered - and probably this same way!!! That answered a question I would never have known how to ask. WOW!! 🤯
My body type is hard to shop for, so when I find something I like enough, I get a bunch 😁 Unfortunately I only have 2 of those George shirts but wow, now I have hope of reengineering one from scratch without actually having to destroy one! You're a star!! 🤩🌟❤️
I dont know why but your voice is so relaxing. it's very calming to listen to :)
Thank you!
This is lovely. I put in my first lapped zip last week and nailed thanks to your videos :)
This makes me very happy to hear! ❤
I feel like the statement "I don't approve of side zippers" needs to end up on merch
Thank you for a new video, the bug fabric is fun. I used the old video’s pattern to make a dress that is very similar to this one. The only difference is I added a arm hole princess seam. I think I said that before. I used a nice cotton fabric from Fancy Tiger Crafts. I added gores in the skirt in a complementary peach to make a fuller skirt which looks better on me.
I actually think I prefer the “mess up” neckline to the lowered one! Your neck is nice enough to pull off either. Both are so very cute with the gathering though!
Thank you Blair!
I find it refreshing to see someone sew who isn’t completely anal about the small details. Getting it done to your own standard is perfectly fine, and the end result was great! Unless someone gets extremely close they are not going to see these things. Love the idea of the zipper finishing lower, I am unashamedly stealing that idea!! I personally have avoided patterns/dresses that have that kind of neck finishing as I thought it would accentuate my boobage area and I don’t need it nor want it, but it doesn’t, it’s very flattering. Thanks (from Japan🇯🇵)
Thank you Vanessa! I'm far too lazy to get things super perfect 😅
I love the bug print so much!!! Cute a cute dress
Thank you Kari!
I have been using your method for sewing in zips and I find it much easier and gives me a better result thank you
I just wanna say thank you, yet again, for making pattern modification so accessible for newbies like me. I only own 3 patterns but with the help of your videos (and some other sewists, like sewstine, nicole rudolph, etc.) I have been able to make successful garments without patterns, or by modifying them to the extreme.
The flattest zipper I know is the zipper put on German duvet covers. It saves on bulk by eliminating the pull thingy entirely.
It looks so flattering on you! And YKK blind zippers never ever broke on me and I put a lot of pressure on them 😉
Thank you Diana! I haven't had one break yet either ✨
Lovely!
OMG I love this dress!😍 it looks stunning!
Thank you Olivia!
Swell dress(both versions)! Fab moves during your reveal. I love seeing what you're up to and really enjoy your ramblings. You feel like kin! xo
Thank you! 🖤
I love how this came out!
Thank you!
Great job, as always!
Thank you Lorelei!
DIVINE!!! 🤩The gathering is everything!
Thank you Sandy!
Love your vlogs thanks
You make beautiful clothing that looks absolutely gorgeous on you. Lol, I had changed my bathroom cabinet three months to a utility sink and I literally screwed the doors on today as well! Couldn't help laugh at the coincidence! Now I wish I 💖 could say I made a lovely dress like that too, unfortunately not the case.😂 oh, loving your overlapping fabric over the zipper technique, I have to remember that.
Thank you! It takes me years to paint cabinets apparently, but far less time for dresses ha 😅
The floral/botanical fabric is EVERYTHING!
Ooohhhhh! I absolutely love this!!!
Thank you Diane!
You do so much work, you put a lot of care into what you do. I appreciate you. ❤️
Thank you so much Rebecca! ❤
Stunning! I love this style 😍
Thank you Mara!
I like this dress so much. Art!
Beautiful...thanks for sharing!
So cuuute! Lol I didn't expect to like a bug print, but it's lovely.
Thank you Reina!
Love this video❤❤ tanks
Gorgeous!
Thank you!
Super cute!! Thank you for showing us another way to move the dart! Great video!
Thank you!
It is stunning!!
Thank you!
You: *mimicking sewing due to lost camera footage*
Me: 😂🤣😆
I loved that.
darn camera!! 😩
Lovely style on you…very well done! 👏🏻
Thank you Jacqueline!
I absolutely love that print! The gathered neckline is lovely
Thank you Joanna!
I’ll give it a try definitely. Looks great! 👏👏
Thank you!
I love this dress and your hair and makeup are beautiful in this video. Thank you!
Thank you!
So beautiful 🤩! Another great video!
Thank you!
This is informative! 😍. I never could figure out bias tape sewing now I get it!
This dress is delightful!
Thank you LaToya!
I love the color!
Thank you Renee!
Sooooo cuuuute! I love it! Now I must make it!
Thank you Charese! Do it!!
Nice 👏👏👏 Adding to my TO SEW list!!!
I love the fabric, such a nice colour and the bugs are great.
Thank you Aneta!
Cute Bianca! I love it.
Thank you Elaine!
That’s great looking!
Thank you!
I was just about to order this fabric from Mood!! Looks terrific 🐞
Thank you Rachel! I already can't wait to use the white version too 😅🐞
Such a pretty shape for you.. love the gathering at the neckline and the flair of the skirt.. beautiful x x
Thank you!
Great style!
Thank you Dannie!
So pretty. And that fabric is adorable
Thank you Jo!
Looks great! Nice print!
Thank you Regena!
Your dress came out beautiful!! Love the bug print!! I loved your explanation of Colorado weather!! I have seen it snow in July while it’s 70 degrees out and the sun is shining in our mountains! Gotta love Colorado!
Thank you! Yeah CO is a wild place 😂
Arrg Matey! I pressed me bias tape...lol
Thanks for the video, you always bring me a smile.
Thank you! 🏴☠️