Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- This test demonstrated that not all penetrating oils are equal. Also, paying more doesn't result in better performance. In this showdown, ATF/Acetone mix, AeroKroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Royal Purple and WD-40 are put to the test. Results: Liquid Wrench came out on top, following by ATF/Acetone, Royal Purple, WD-40, PB Blaster, and AeroKroil.
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ
Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/2Z53rOC
PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW
Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6
WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/31aince
➡ Thank you very much for supporting the channel: / projectfarm
➡ An easy way to find past videos along with products tested: bit.ly/2FCrBpk A big thanks to Jim for putting this together.
➡ Merch: www.Project-Farm.com
➡ Click here if you'd like to subscribe: / @projectfarm
➡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC
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Thank you all for suggesting this penetrating oil showdown! Best regards, Todd
AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ
Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/32dX7Sw
PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW
Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6
WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
Can you do a Best Carb Cleaner video?!
You're the best Todd no kidding.
Keith Kuhn
Question: can you use a heat gun to loose bolts?
You know like the torch?
In the auto repair business for 35 years , HOWES is the only pen. oil that NEVER failed , sometimes worked in minutes !! Cant find in Cali anymore .
@@sawthemin77
I just did a Google search hoses is out there.
But expensive
I hope you never get tired of doing these tests. As someone with both limited knowledge and funds. It's easy to be lured to buy the "best" (Most expensive) . I'll take function over form every time. Your channel helps.
Thank you very much!!
@@ProjectFarm same with me. Thank you for doing this and all the other videos. sub'd
I agree. "Truth is where you find it!" I guess I'll park my Kroil and replenish my supply of Liquid Wrench next trip to the auto parts store!
Most of you guys are living in the west with all brands you can think of. For other people living in a third world country we are lucky when we get WD40. It is fun to watch these tests but far from reality here I am in Uganda.
@@happyjohn8256 I am from Norway but have been living in Africa for 18 years.
WD-40 is available in cities but by experience we have been using break fluid or diesel for penetrating rusted nuts and bolts.
Propane or oxy-acetylene for heating is only available in the cities.
This man still replies to comments after 2 years... that’s awesome 👍
Thanks for watching!
Either that or his script bot does :-)
@@TheMadMagician87 haha you're right.
Yeah it is. I'm sub to like 3 channels and this is one of them. This guy's content is great.
I like that too when they reply back that means a lot.
He is number one in my book.
Keep in mind he's testing these products on short-term surface rust. It's going to be a different story on years old, very rusty fasteners you'd find under a vehicle. The fact is sometimes a torch is the only solution and that's why I always have one on hand.
it can't be stuck if it's liquid
I'm up in the salt belt of upstate NY. If I have time, I like to torch first and then hit it with penetrant. Seems like the heat opens it up and allows the penetrant in more, always had good luck using both.
He does mention heat at the end of the video.
Kroil works better with heat: heating parts and dousing with Kroil seems to smoke less than doing the same with PB Blaster, too.
FWIW, I also ran a PC fan with only RP Synfilm on the shaft (no grease) for nearly two years before it finally seized. I'd say it has great lubricant properties. I've also used it to lubricate turntable parts, too. The dropper bottle comes in quite handy for finer applications like that.
You mean in your hand ? 😂
Yikes, Liquid Wrench is now $12 a can. PB Blaster is $6. Your video drove their sales and price I bet! 😂
I've been in aviation maintenance for over 20 years and 100% hands down prefer Kroil to just about anything. I'm a little shocked to see it perform poorly on this test. It's amazing on dissimilar metal corrosion and heat stressed titanium, which are often found in aviation. It also smells great! Thanks for your videos. I found your channel a few weeks ago and have already purchased a few products based on your testing. I am not disappointed!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I'm the opposite. Kroil just REEKS to me and I can't stand it. I was given a can and have only tried it 3 times on frozen nuts/bolts, but it didn't seem to do much of anything to help. My trial results matched Todd's here.
Jeff is that you? Anyway, my buddy Jeff works in aviation maintenance also. He works on propellers and after just visiting him this past weekend, I saw a can of Aerokroil in his garage, and he swore by it.
How have you found it to work in the cold? I’m interested in using it on my shotgun while cold weather hunting, water and cold temps will lock ya up solid
I work in instrumentation, Kroil is the go to when you have to remove a long rusted RTD stuck in a thermowell on a steam generator at 325°C.
It's really satisfying to see how consistent you got that rust. It's almost beautiful!
Thank you!
Being a master automotive technician I also have utilized all the products you did minus the acetone and transmission fluid mixture. From day to day 35 year hands-on experience I came up with the same conclusion that you did. It was an interesting show down to say the least. Thank you.
John, just wondering.. How many times in those 35 years did you intentionally go through 3 one hour application processes waiting for it to work?
Jay Audette if I was working from home, several applications over several hours was common. If it was in work and time is money, almost never.
@@johnjohannemann536 Yup. That's when heat enters the picture.
Heat is mostly the best option for rusted nuts/bolts. I think he would have had even better result from heating up the nuts a little more.
How are OEM penetrants? The Ford, GM or Chrysler stocked in dealer shops?
I enjoy watching your videos for numerous reasons. I'm a mechanic & have been almost all my life & there are many methods to removing frozen or rusted hardware.
( 1 ) PB Blaster is JUNK & the product often runs out of Aresol leaving over a 1/4 remaining in the can.
RESOLVE: I use a AC puncture handle & empty the remainder into a spray bottle.
( 2 ) WD40 is JUNK- Over time if you do a test, you'll find that the surface of the stuck / rusted whatever will get much worse, especially if left out in the elements.
RESOLVE: Don't waste your money!
( 3 ) Gasoila - Works great but only if you have time & soak the problem repeatedly, that's with most other products.
( 4 ) FreeAll - I've used it a few times but it's VERY expensive & honestly doesn't provide a value at all.
( 5 ) Liquid Wrench - In my opinion & the millions of time I've used it is MUCH BETTER than all the other brands. As for the cost, it depends on where you can get it.
I've found with most that if you have time & consistantly keep soaking it that almost any product is better than none. The conditions & temperatures & exposure all play a part in the demise as well.
EXCELLENT CONTENT in your channel & like your content providing answers to those whom wish to learn & gain knowledge! THAN YOU SIR 🙂
Thanks and you are welcome!
I absolutely love how you seem to think of EVERYTHING when doing these tests, such as putting the nuts on the studs with the beveled edge down and covering the bolts not being treated as each new set was being treated. GREAT WORK!
Thank you
I agree, he does _great_ work.
I was surprised at the results. Last week I spent 7 hours on a stuck bell housing bolt. I used every tool I have including torch and impact. I was at a loss so I sprayed PB Blaster (recommended by a friend) and went to bed. In the morning the bolt was finger loose! Crazy. I’m now a firm believer in PB Blaster but I’m going to try Liquid Wrench now too. Great video sir!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Also, worth mentioning is to heat the nut and not the bolt. The idea being that the circumference of the nut will increase and separate from the bolt and break the 'seal' formed by the rust/etc. Yes, the bolt will get hot and expand as well, so if you've never done it before, heat the nut for a bit and then try to remove it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
And if something really truly stuck you can go the ole heat-water-heat-water-rinse repeat until desired result is achieved
I wouldn't contradict your experience that it works better as im not a mechanic, but the explanation confuses me. When you heat a metal, for example a nut, it expands in all directions, ie. it increases in volume. So the outside dimension increases in "radius" and the inside shrinks in radius. When the bolt gets hot it just gets bigger. The final effect is that the brittle rust gets squished between the surfaces and breaks its adhesion to the metal loosening the bolt after it cools again and all the surfaces shrink again. Does that make sense? Or do I have it wrong?
@@cnf6045 Exactly! Thermal shock is better than heating the nut and trying to remove it hot.
String Larson - That's exactly what I was always taught, BUT just recently I was attempting to remove a pitman arm and heated the nut for about a half hour and couldn't get the impact wrench to budge it. I then said #! and heated the arm itself for about 5 min and was able to break the nut in 5 seconds. Counter intutive I know BUT DAMN!
@@clutions Yeah, once the 'rust' essentially, fuses the parts, to a point where the heat applied will transfer from the nut to the bolt at the same rate as thru the clean nut. it can get/does get pointless. Time to rebuild from new.
The other thing to consider is that the strength of a say steel rod/bar/etc. degrades exponentially depending on the integrity of the initial material.
As a simple example (and if I recall correctly) a 1/2 inch rod with 1/16 inch off corrosion will have a non-linear reduction in "strength" (shear, tension, torsion, etc.)
This is important for many reasons not least of which is if one has a torque rating on a bolt and wants to mount a new nut, or of that works, whether or not that bolt/nut will hold up under required conditions. etc. etc. etc. etc
Only 4 years after the posting and I watch this video, but really entertaining. I just wanted to share that a product I've been using for years and love over anything else I can think of is called Tri-Flow. It comes in a black and orange can and when you shake it there's a mixing ball inside the can similar to what you'd hear when shaking a spray paint can. Thanks for all the hard work you do Project Farm!
Thanks for sharing.
2 year old video and still replying to comments. That’s dedication to your subscribers. You’re doing an amazing job and definitely deserve more recognition. I’m still working my way down your video list as I recently found your page about a week ago. Wish I would’ve discovered your page sooner! Keep up the fantastic work!
Thanks so much!
This guy is better than Consumer Report! He owes no one and gives the best unbiased findings! Glad I subscribed! You should too!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Consumer reports is garbage. Project farm is on a whole different scale.
This was really interesting for me. I grew up on a dairy farm and we always had Liquid Wrench around. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it did so well. Great channel. Thank you
Thank you!
In NJ liquid wrench was the official state penetrant
I'm in my 60's, and my dad was using Liquid Wrench when I was a little kid, so it has been around a long time. I have used other stuff over the years, but never found anything that work as well - and so consistently, as the original Liquid Wrench.
Great test. If you do this again, I would love to see if any of these actually penetrate the threads. After breaking the torque off, you could remove the nut and see if the oils went down into the threads.
I am literally watching this while standing in the hardware store looking at the penetrating oils.... Full volume on my phone and giving you a thumbs up! 👍👍👍👍👍
Imagine someone comes up "can I help you find anything?"........ "Nah, I'm good, I'm watching the only truth teller #ProjectFarm
And I just did the same lmfao
yeah but dont be an asshole turn the volume down or use headphones lol
@@MattB90 lmao true though
Haha I’ve done similar
I’ve been using liquid wrench since watching these videos and it works well. I am just sick of the smell so I might test out some of the other options
Sea foam deep Creep smells like coconuts. Works well for me.
What does it smell like?
PB Blaster stinks too!
Kroil almost smells like Pine Sol or a cleaning solution. You’ll actually not be bothered by the smell and results for me are opposite of what’s shown here. Kroil is my he’s y hitter when WD40 and PB blaster just aren’t cutting it. Kroil had worked wonders
@@patrickmcwilliams3957 PB stinks so bad that it is wholly intolerable to me. And the smell gets on you so you stink like it does all day long. Not worth it for a mediocre penetrant.
I am always impressed by your thoroughness, and your attention to details in the testing processes.
You may not be a scientist, but you sure think like one.
Thanks for watching!
projext farm i aint even in to this sort of stuff but im addicted i love how you talk to your viewers you explain to a point where you don't dumb it down or over complicate it your a legend :D
Thank you
Absolutely, that is so important to keep it simple and we the viewers appreciate involving hands-on usage too. Well said !!
I'm a Kroil guy, and I think I just bought my last can. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you! I wish Kroil would have done better. I don't mind spending more, but need the performance to match the price tag.
I was thinking the same thing. Ive used and recommended Kroil for years. Now I feel like ive just wasted mine and my friend's money for years
I'm in the same boat. Have half a gallon of Silikroil left, so I got a couple more years before I can justify buying something else though. At least when I do my wife will finally stop complaining about the smell in the garage from when I use it.
Mat D half a gallon? fuck why did you buy that much.
carolyn mmitchell It was $50 plus slipping.
Thank you for all your testing and excellent reviews. I immensely enjoy your videos and recommendations. Being a retired merchant marine engineer, we have had plenty of exposure with rusty fasteners on sea going ships. One of the major enemies to seafaring ships are salt water and sea spray. At one time or another we have used all the penetrants you have tested in your video (except the home brew). The top two we found to be most successful was the Kroil and the PB Blaster. The Kroil we would get in one gallon cans the PB Blaster in 5 gallon cans. The most unique thing we found with Kroil and PB Blaster was its effectiveness was almost immediately where as for the others they required a soak time.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Heat with a propane or mapp torch for appx. 30 secs. Then apply penetrating oil. The heat sucks it in instantly.
I bent a breaker bar recently trying to remove rusted bolts under my truck. Heated then sprayed and VIOLA, nuts came off fairly easy with a little effort.
I was very impressed.
But be careful working above you when you spray the penetrant onto the heated metal it drips hot oil on you. So position yourself to the side.
Great point. Thank you
It's written: VOILA! Viola is a girl's name or musical instrument.
No, it just evaporates the volatile contents of the penetrant. (EVOC)
The heat loosened up the bolt more than the penetrant did . Heat expands allowing the oil to get in. But you don't always have the option of using an open flame. like a hanger strap on a gas tank or brake line near the same. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 I've never got a heavily rusted object loose with a propane torch alone. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 you can with a hotter torch. But what I said was the heat allowed the oil to get in due to heat expansion.
Ever put a ring gear on a flywheel?
You're not wrong just explaining.
Man you are the most Honest farmer I have ever known!
Thanks for the nice comment! Thanks for watching.
I would be interested to see these same products used as a rust preventative. take new nuts and bolts soaked in the different Pen-oils the put them in an environment which would normally cause them to rust.
Thank you for this recommendation!
Project Farm You’re welcome. I really enjoy your videos.
That is a great idea!
my mate paint stipped a panel 3 years ago. I put wd 40 on it then. 3 years latter still no rust and has an oily film. (is inside the shed)
Someone on a gun forum did that. Used a salt bath. WD40 was kick ass in that test.
For 20 years, I've listened to fellow Jeepers argue whether PB Blaster was better than Liquid Wrench. I always leaned towards PB, but this changes my mind. Thanks for all of your videos, you do a great job with them!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I have a motor mount bolt stuck in the metal sleeve through the bushing. I was using PB Blaster to try to cut through the rust, then saw Liquid Wrench tested better, and I happen to have a can of that as well. These videos are still useful years later!
Thanks, great to hear!
Interesting video! I am an automotive student and in our shop, all we use is PB Blaster, and that is all I have also used for years now. I may have to give Liquid Wrench a try! This is a very unrealistic test though. I do not know of anyone in the automotive industry that has time to apply 3 coats of penetrating fluid with an hour of soaking in between to free up a stuck bolt. Realistically one coat is applied, then attempted to remove after 5-10 minutes. This would be a more real world test for this type of product, but I guess if you are just a DIY repair person with plenty of time, this is a good approach. Great video though!
Thanks for commenting on this.
Koorite if you read my comment I say PB Blaster hands down. Its What every REAL PRO will reach for... And WD40 Is for Newbies and Walmart shoppers... I havnt had a use for WD40 Since i was 13 and im 40 now... WD40 Shouldnt even be in the lineup... Regardless, when you find something that works on EVERYTHING and youve never needed to look any futher... then WHY LOOK ANY FUTHER... Try PB Blaster and youll be set for life. I use it as my all around pen oil and rust gaurd... All my tools get wiped down with it after a hard use before storage. Plus 1 can last forever and a prick year... The Can ive got now ive had about 8 years. It doesnt take much at all and it last.
DrJones yeah, i know WD40 is junk. i currently only use pb blaster now and it works great, but this video showed that liquid wrench is also a good penetrating fluid, so i would like to give it a try since i have never used it!
PB blaster is junk. CRC Knocker Loose #1. PB is the WD-40 of penetrating oils.
The student speaks!
He's come such a long way. Love seeing the progress in techniques and ideas
Awesome channel and thank you for existing and waking up every morning 🌄
Thanks and you are welcome!
You definitely deserve to be prideful of your videos Bud. Not only is everything that you're saying very interesting, but your videos are also very informative to consumers that are laymen when it comes to the knowledge that you present. Keep up the good work. I'm glad I found your videos.
Thanks, will do!
I'm surprised the PB blaster didn't do better. Glad to know I'm not missing out on anything by not buying into the Kroil craze.
Thank you for commenting!
Joseph Marciniak I've only ever used Kroil because that's just what my shop buys but this was eye opening. I showed this to my boss and now we are going to try Liquid Wrench. We rebuild antenna tilt machines on navy ships, so there are DEFINITELY some nasty bolts that I have to deal with.
a lot of people just fanboy the most expensive and preach it
my money was on PB as well, but then that's why I watch the video.
BlowDiamond I'm a mechanic in Pennsylvania and I've been using PB Blaster for years. If I can find Liquid Wrench locally, I'll certainly give it a shot. The salt they throw on the roads really corrodes things. Its damn near impossible to work on older cars here without a torch.
It’s quite interesting over the years of having a large shop and using different products, that sometimes the sales of the different penetrating oils and their slogans seem draw us to gravitate towards one over the other, especially the one with the capillary action! There’s always the proof is in the pudding over sales gimmicks! Great review I enjoyed it : )
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I just used PB Blaster on rusted banjo bolts on my master cylinder. Worked great! That's what brought me to this video, very surprised with these results!
I have seen obvious great results 3x from PB Blaster. I have heard brake fluid works but have not tried it. I am going to buy the winner of this contest and try it.
I'm from the NE/ Midwest. Everybody swears by PB Blaster for loosening rusted hardware. Of course, it helps to keep it from rusting in the first place. Undercoating is a scam. I've never used it and probably never will. Just keep your car clean, including underneath. And lubricate other devices as needed.
We all owe this wonderful man a big thanks. No bs, honest and to the point.
You earned 1 more sub today mister. Keep it up brother.
Thanks, will do! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
The best advice I have for using any penetrating oil, is to use it liberally over the course of several days. If you don’t have several days, heat is your best friend.
Thanks for the feedback.
As an aircraft mechanic for American Airlines we also typically use Kroil as many have stated. I was surprised at how bad it actually is. They probably haven't changed the formula in a very long time thou. What we have found is that Dye Penetrant or in our particular case the Fluorescent Penetrants work phenomenally! These penetrants have different classes, I-IV, with IV being the best and their capillary action is better than any thing we have found. This stuff has to find really tiny cracks in different materials so it gets in the threads of nuts/bolts with no issues. Unfortunately it is messy, especially the fluorescent kind. Also maybe you could design some type of test to try to visually see the capillary action of these materials. Maybe plates of plexiglass together and see how far it can "creep" between the two? In this type of test you could theorize which one is best with a constant application of the product. Could also be worth checking the application directions for each product. I know that I was always told to spray Kroil every few minutes because as you noted it evaporated quickly. Apply the penetrants horizontally because you can't always get that good soak in real applications. Great video.
These are all great recommendations--thank you!
LPS was designed for the aerospace industry. Ever try that?
Jake McCurry Jr. croil is the shit I’ve tested it on bolts rusted in refineries for more than 50 years and kroil did better than all of these
festerallday - We use LPS 1, 2, & 3. We typically only use them for lubrication purposes thou, never really tried them as a Penetrant to break things loose.
crunch9876 - I have heard so many people make the same claim but in my own real world testing Kroil works alot of the time but if it's really stuck the Fluorescent Penetrant works way better. This is also the 2nd video I've seen that Kroil has done either the worst or almost the worst. I've been at my job for over 10 years and my experience has been the same as the videos.
As a former millwright there is one tried and true that you did not use, the hammer! The old adage of it that don’t work get a bigger hammer (there is a modicum of truth to that). If you whack on a rusted up bolt or nut a few times you will always loosen it up a bit! That’s why impacts work soo well!
You came up with the same results as old uncle bumblefuck did! AVE!!!
Yes, the hammer works wonders! Thank you!
Hit with a hammer if it doesn't move use a bigger hammer if it breaks it wasn't built right!
If it won't fit, force it. If it breaks, it was defective.
@Joshua Carnine - As a current ignoramus, who doesn't understand the value of knowledge, experience, and wisdom, I belittle anyone who does.
Project farm: yes very true, if you read my other comment on here you will see I never mention the hammer method, but yes in some applications just the good old beat the tar out of it a bit can work wonders, also if you hold one hammer on the back side of the stuborn nut as an anvil then smack the other side of the nut with a different hammer sometimes is even more effective yet (transmits more of the force and vibrations directly into the nut so it would seem), or another trick is to concentrate the hammers force by using a metal cutting chisle to really concentrate the force of the hammer in a very small area on the side of the nut, this will cause the nut to be mechanically expanded ever so slightly and many times be rather easy to remove after doing so, you just need to not mess up the fastener to the point where a wrench will no longer fit it, anyhow good luck on those stuborn fastners my friend lol.
Great Job! Love your videos. I’m a yacht engineer and I can honestly say that people in the industry have seen your videos and heard of you. You’re making a useful impact and I appreciate it. Keep them coming!
Thank you! I appreciate hearing that!
I work on vintage sewing machines that are 50 to 100 years old and I fine that Kroil and heat work the best to free seized small nuts and screws. WD40 and Liquid Wrench were better than nothing but least effective. PB Blaster was more effective, but my go to penetration is Kroil.
I was thinking use a torch. Then You did. That made this video 100x better.
Thank you!
Great test. Glad to see most of my assumptions confirmed i.e. Liquid Wrench = best, WD-40 mid point.
I hear heat advocated ALL THE TIME, impressive difference. But you're right, heat is not always an option, either due to possible damage to paint, electrical, combustibles/volatiles (fuel lines, brake lines), etc. adjacent to target fasteners or seized parts; of just plane not having any heat capability such as roadside tire change or repair/replacement of other automotive parts.
Thank you!
this was very helpful. I just got tasked with cleaning and repairing a bunch of mop handles. They have those little threaded bars used to clamp down on the mop head. They are rusted beyond belief.
Thanks! Thanks for the feecback.
Great video. As you stated, penetrating fluids do very little. That has been my experience in over 40 years of messing with every rusted thing I found. I use WD40 to keep critters out of my stored equipment and to offset corrosion in my mower decks. Great for control cables as well.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
WD-40 is better as a water dispersant than a penetrant. It does work well to protect surfaces from corrosion during storage.
Your use of wd40 is what it was designed for to protect equipment developed by Nasa. I eats through rubber.
Great channel! I really appreciate the way you lay out your tests and your great attitude in general. You always see the way to get consistency and validity with your test parameters. I've been recommending Liquid Wrench for about 30 years now. Nothing works better on the tough fasteners. Nice to have you demonstrate it. The old formula was stronger, but nasty smell!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I just tried to buy some and everyone is sold out. The nearest Home Depot that has it is 400 miles away, Walmart is completely out, Menard's is out...never mind. Found it at Fleet Farm for less than half the price.
When I first started as a mechanic an old greybeard told me to use brake fluid. The best by far. Please like so it can be put to a true test!
Thank you for this recommendation!
If you step back and think about it, that makes a lot of sense. In past experiences if left alone brake fluid will eat it's way through almost anything if left untouched. I've seen it eat paint off the firewall of an $80,000 hotrod because the owner didn't know it was leaking and couldn't see it until the motor was removed for refresh.
Well if it works so well , then why are rusty brake line so hard to get apart?.......😁😁
I was shocked to see how the KANO finished in your test. Because I can say without a doubt, Kano has saved the day when NOTHING ELSE would help. But then Again, I wasn’t always dealing with a simple rusted nut/thread. It would just climb into everything . From heavily cooked on carbon coated or aged/hardened grease, and other unknown thread locking substances. But then I’m still using Kano from the 50 gallon drum my dad rolled home with back in 1984!! I bet these days there may possibly be a different ingredient or two to make it epa friendly.
I like your videos! Great work!
Yes, brake fluid works well!
I will most definitely try liquid wrench. I normally use wd40 or pb blaster although I don't use those much. My wife's grandfather swears by Kroil but for the price and watching it work, I have never been that impressed
Thanks for the feedback.
It's important to have something to argue about with the in-laws.
My old neighbor swore by that stuff but just like so many things people becomes victims of marketing. You would think Krol was 10X better than anything else if you listen to some people. Not true and I am glad my suspicions were confirmed.
In most real life scenarios, rust compromises the integrity of the metal specially on smaller nuts and bolts. Which is why so many of them strip.
CRC Freeze-Off, a blow torch and an extractor is usually my go to when a rust job really wants to test me.
Love all your vids!
Thanks so much! Thanks for the feedback.
Letting a penetrant soak for several hours may be a solution for some of us. I restore classic cars, letting things soak overnight is preferable to snapping bolts in castings, especially aluminium ones.
I agree!
mick coomer I used KROIL on the exhaust of my 78 mustang. Shot some on the exhaust studs once every 6 hours for 3 days and then nearly backed the nut off by hand
Screamin' Shadow Rider
Same
mick coomer
I concur
roger..... we're all anxious to hurry along things that need time
Your studies have been an enormous help to me, now before I purchase anything at all you have become my first study I use to find out the best products for both price and effectiveness before I waste our hard earned dollars. And……. Everyone else should tune in if they wish to save time and money, I’ve never found he’s incorrect 👍👍
Thanks so much!
Hey that was excellent and fair. I've learned that you really try hard and succeed to be equal to all the products. I appreciate and trust your efforts. Great Job and I'm going to use your recommendations!!
Thank you!
Hi Project Farm, I just discovered this video of yours - I wish we had tested this in engineering. Frozen fasteners is a common if not contagious ailment on equipment failure investigation (and farm equipment maintenance). Thank you so much for your scientific and practical testing. Ciao, L (Pointue Farms)
Thank you very much!
I have used the second place for a long time. We put it in a 4 cylinder engine that was frozen. 3 days of letting it soak the engine turned over. I enjoyed your show. Thank You
Thanks and you are welcome!
Wow! I've been using the expensive AeroKroil, I'll be picking up some Liquid Wrench next time. Thanks for the great info!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Me too! I thought I had something special in the expensive Aerokroil. I mean it works OK, but nothing particularly outstanding.
@@ProjectFarm
Can you do one on automotive hard grade bolts, I see some that are galvanized some that are chrome and some gold type paint and blacked out. Can you do testing to see which fair better against salt and moisture and which are actually stronger. please and thank you.
The one that creeps is the only one you need
@@GereDJ2 I have a can of kroil. Love the smell. Best of all penetrating oils.
Because of this video, Liquid wrench is in my lineup. This research conducted conveniences a DIYer such as myself and the audience alike. Your works respected.
Thanks!
Great test. I’m an auto tech and was shocked that Kroil scored low. Surprised at Liquid Wrench. I use Kroil but will try LW next time first to save my Kroil supply.
Agreed. Kroll always penetrated well past alot of the others I've tried.
Tapping with a hammer helps to break the chemical bonds that form.
Thanks for the feedback.
I was thinking the same actually
Project Farm open and shut is the best penetrant by far... 10x more powerful than PB blaster
The tapping trick works wonders especially with heat
Will that work for a seized spark plug?
This man's work including this video is still very relevant. Thank you for your contribution.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thank you for this demonstration. Been struggling with Blaster to loosen a steel nipple under bathroom sink with no progress. Toxic fumes make it difficult to work with in small room. Going to try Liquid Wrench tomorrow to try and finish this project. Working with pipe wrench so I am providing all the torque! Thanks again.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Any info i wanna know how much better it worked
@@Billy-gh9ih actually it didn't work for me. Nipple wouldn't budge. Had to discontinue use of sink as it makes puddles downstairs in the basement bathroom. Any suggestions?
Going to try all of them on my wife
You need a new bitch
Use the torch last
no doubt she will choose the most expensive one
Jerrypintoswe
It's a definite cause for concern when you no longer trigger the auto-lube function of her two stroker.
Jay Dawg
Hahahaha, we know what that usually means......she already found another lube tech.
My real life experiences is Kroil and Liquid Wrench are the best, I wonder if the test is accurate, I'm working on 20 year old bolts. For mixed metal, steel on aluminum, Kroil is by far the best in my experience. Stooped by this one!
Yeah I wondered about mixed metals as well. Would like to see that test👍
Peter, I'm with you. I have been using Kroil for 10 yrs or so and on mixed metal it works great. I have found that Kroil on a fastener or shaft, bearing that can be worked to & fro just a hair will come loose way quicker & easier than anything out there. To me it's the cats meow.
I bought Kroil to clean lead and copper fouling out of steel gun barrels. It lifts the lead and copper off the steel. The more patient you are, the more fouling it removes. It is non-corrosive too.
Have always had good results with Kroil. I originally got directed to it by a millwright from the naval shipyard in Bremerton. Also love it for rust removal, usually with a wire brush or fine steel wool. And as a protective coating on machined surfaces like lathes or drill presses.
Haven't even watched the whole video yet! Can tell it's going to be good as always!
Thank you!
It was pretty interesting that Kroil was the most expensive, and did the worst...
Would like to also see how effective a simple whack with a hammer is.
Thank you for this recommendation!
Even the expensive penetrating oil cans tell you to hit them gently to help the oil sink in, it seems to help in all honesty. If I ever have something that is really giving me hell I put on my Acetone/ATF with a solder brush then rap on it a soft piece of steel and my drilling hammer, then after a few soft blows, put more mixture on it. Might just be placebo, but I think it helps.
Usually not very, it usually just twists the heads off of smaller fasteners. I prefer impact wrenches, which give a series of smaller blows but gives a lot of them.
The ole shocker with the 3lb sledge
Uriah Siner hold still and i will show you
I notice all the people who saying nothing's better than kroll usually work for an industry that doesn't bat a eye at paying $15 for can of penetrating oil
Great point!
I know Kano is good I've used it many times at my work in the mechanical department, just used it the other day getting a drag chain bearing off a shaft. But we are a company that doesn't bat an eye on cost's, just wanted to share that because I had a chuckle reading your comment.
my work uses it and its pretty much useless, i just use straight acetone and a beat on it a bit. it usually works and if not then im gonna end up drilling something out.
True. I was surprised at these results because I've used AeroKroil in aviation for years. A $15 can of oil is nothing compared to the cost of the man hours lost while trying to remove a stuck part, and a fraction of the cost of the parts themselves.
Been there, done that, got the T shirt. I was one of those people-worked as an instrument tech repairing control valves in refineries. FROM EXPERIENCE OF 30+ YEARS, I have found no better product than Kroil. The only ones I have not tried are the new synthetic penetrating oils. I'm willing to agree that the lesser expensive products will work just as well for the home DIY'er.
Great work as usual, but I don't think it is clear that using any of these products is better than nothing. The most expensive product in the group appears to have worked no better than nothing according to the graph
When I saw 4 bolts/sample, I was hoping that you were going to take some measurements at a later time. The reason I mention that is that I typically use PB Blaster and I have found that some fasteners that would not budge on the day of application were easily moved a week or so later. It was a surprising result.
Thanks for these tests!
You are welcome! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Thank you, I've used LW penetrating oil in the past...I caught it on sale and felt it worked well.
Was just shopping for more and your testing has sealed deal as I'm going with LW again, thank you.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Worked 4 year as a mechanic with an almost retired man who used to heat up with a butane torch and quick cool down using a soaking wet rag , he used it on Mig welding line too as a hardening process just like forging i imagine. And in my experience it worked very very well !
Thanks for sharing.
I just found your videos. This is really helpful to me cause I’m going to let you buy all the products then I’m going to buy the one that worked the best. Thanks and have a great day.
This was a good one, and I say that as someone with a can of Kroil, that I have had my doubts about.
Thanks for the feedback.
Same. Guess I'm getting some liquid wrench instead for working on rifles.
@@evey0259 I live on a sailboat, so...
It is the best this test is not conclusive there are to many variables , and it does a lot more than just a penetrating oil . It breaks down carbon very well (cleaning guns) and lubricates . It's an all in one , there is a reason the military , air plane repair facilities , machinist and gunsmiths use religiously.
@@ryanbrown4336 probably because they've never seen definitive side by side testing. They're just going with the norm or what everyone says or looking at the price and saying that it must be the best.
This was a test of penetrating oils for the purpose of penetrating rust. Lubricating and breaking down carbon are not the issues at hand and can be done with purpose made products. Kroil claims to be the best penetrant oil and it just isn't
I’d love to see how CorrosionX compared to these products. I used Corrosion X to bring wrenches back to life that some of these products had no impact on.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Great test.. lots of fun.
TBH all those consumer products tested about the same, except Liquid Wrench. .The differences between the rest are so small it can be attributed in variances in the rust buildup and your own test methods...
At the nuke plants we use oil of wintergreen on the reactor head studs (hi strength CS) prior to removal.. wonder how that compares? We have to use it because of chemical limitations (chlorides etc).
Thank you!
Would love to see how wintergreen oil does in a test.
Liquid Wrench plus heat is freaking amazing. Spray the liquid wrench and let it soak. Then hit it with a flame. It catches fire and heats the inside of the bolt real well.
Great tip! Thank you
I do same thing, works good
I agree that it's difficult to simulate every scenario. But this is a pretty good experiment. Anyway, I typically run into stock bolts trying to change lawnmower blades. I've tried WD40 with no success. I then bought Liquid Wrench at a local retailer, and now I swear by it. It works very well. I've never tried any of the other products.
Thanks for sharing.
I know this is an older post, but I just figured I would throw it out there. If you happen to do another test like this, I would definitely add Thrust to the mix. I can't tell you how many times that stuff has loosened things for me where other penetrating oils could not. Also, the price is very reasonable considering how good it works.
I was just about to suggest Castle Products - Thrust when I saw your comment. Great stuff.
I have a project idea but it's going to be a little different. Try putting different oils/ gun oils on metals and see how well they work with preventing rust. Probably have to have the metal sprayed with water sitting outside for days. Would be interesting to see how long the different oils work until rust forms and how much rust forms. I know for gun oil there's a ton of products (ballistol, clp, REM. Oil) and I know good ol 3 and 1 oil and motor oil can be more basic oils and are cheaper. Let me know if you like the idea!
Thank you for this recommendation!
Go to 6mmbr for the rust protection/finish test on gun metal finishes. It is controlled in a salt bath.
CentralPlainsEnt couldn't find it but I still would like to see project farm do the test. He does such a great job on his videos
bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2013/06/firearm-finish-comparison-testing-in-salt-chamber/
www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
Here are a couple interesting links one is a corrosion test. The other is a test on different types of metals or applied finishes.
CentralPlainsEnt the second link is more what I was looking for . But I still would love to see a classic style project farm video on this. Still can compare more things that the link you sent didn't have. But thanks for the links
I really like all the testing you do and this test was no exception...
I've been using Liquid Wrench all my life for rusty bolts and then heat if the Liquid Wrench doesn't do the job.
WD-40 is my go-to for rust prevention, as a minor lubricant and thread cleaner.
Thanks for an awesome video. I am sitting with a stuck rounded exhaust nut that led me to your video. I am now a hardcore follower of your channel. Love all your videos, they are very educational and entertaining.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thanks so much! This information is so helpful. I love the graphs. So funny that heat (perhaps the least expensive option, fastest and easiest) is also the most effective.
Glad it was helpful!
The original kick-ass "old school" formulation for your own homemade penetrant, from years and years ago, mind you, is not acetone + ATF. It is acetone + brake fluid. I don't know when this acetone + ATF mix thingy got started (I only noticed it about 4 or 5 years ago), but it, and all the overpriced store bought crap, is definitely inferior in performance to acetone + brake fluid.
ATF does have some great qualities aside from, or maybe related to, its intended use, however, lubrication being one, so after learning of this acetone + ATF mix, I started adding it to my old standby (acetone + brake fluid), in a 1:1:1 ratio -- doesn't hurt and might help. BUT, it's the BOTH chemically "powerful stuff, " acetone AND brake fluid mix, that outperforms the store bought offerings.
Yet another great, but "not its intended use" for ATF: fuel injector cleaner. Long story 'bout how I know but suffice it to say, I'd put it up against all the overpriced stuff you can get for that purpose -- Lucas and ALL of 'em.
Use your own judgement as to how much per gallon or tankful, but don't be afraid to go "heavy" -- a little on the heavy side is probably best, just don't go crazy.
And another good use for ATF: about a 1000 miles prior to an oil change, run a quart in with your soon to be changed oil (drain a little old if necessary to accommodate the ATF -- never overfill). Probably heard from old mechanics or "shade-tree" mechanics to use kerosene this way, but a 30 year, ASAE certified Ford dealer's guy -- my friend -- said kerosene is a no-no, because of its lack of lubricating ability.
He said ATF is much better because of better detergent qualities than even the best motor oil, better anti-foaming agents than even the best motor oil, and better lubricating than with kerosene.
The reason for doing it is to clean out sludge and carbon deposits or buildup prior to the oil change -- ATF does it better than regular oil. (removing carbon deposits is what it does so well for injectors)
Thanks for commenting!
No problem. Just checking back in to tout the superior performance of ATF as a fuel injector cleaner, over all the teeny-tiny bottled, way over-priced crap marketed for that purpose. THEY SUCK. PERIOD. DOT. END OF STORY.
Last time my wife's vehicle started "cuttin' out", especially when lugging, it cost over $600 to fix -- faulty (or crudded up) fuel injector that just "had to be replaced."
That was over 5 years ago. So, when it started doing the same thing -- AGAIN -- I must have run a gallon or more, teeny-tiny overpriced bottle at a time, of the OTC gas additives marketed for that very purpose -- cleaning injectors -- with absolutely NO results at all.
One cup of ATF (Royal Purple synthetic, although I'm certain Dexrons II and/or III would have produced the same results) in a quarter tank (16 gal. max fill), and I noticed an improvement within the first 5 miles of driving.
I've run 2 full tanks since, pint of RP ATF in each, and the problem is gone.
Word to the wise...not "commenting".
I’d add atf to my lawn mower. It would smooth out almost instantly after a couple ounces in the gas tank. 10 years for a Honda push mower and still going strong.
G.t. W -- another great use. It helps combat the harmful effects ethanol gas has on carbs and rubber lines, seals, and gaskets. Yet another use: diesel tractors and equipment. But I only recommend it for the old stuff (mine). I don't know squat about the new stuff that requires the new "environmentally friendly, reformulated, low or sulfur free" formulations of diesel. I'm still using the off-road, dyed diesel and it works great mixed with it. Anything else, use at your own risk. I'm in no place to say.
Tab Lature in diesel, does it act as a lubricant ? They used to add motor oil to the diesel to lube the upper cylinders but I haven’t seen anyone do that in years.
Great video, Project Farm, you truly are an American Classic.
Thanks!
This was a great test. Thanks so much. I have some krill in a can and frankly it is so stinky it penetrates the entire garage and it smells like that for days. Same for PB blaster. I will have a look at liquid wrench or maybe use my propane torch on some tough suspension joints this weekend. Thanks for the tips.
Does it work better than fish oil?
@@SW-ii5gg not sure. Probably not. Besides it’s too stinky
Lets do another showdown!
Thank you
You should do a showdown with Tsetsi using penitrating fluid on her enema video and also spray it her armpit hair to see if it dissolves.
Yabba dabble do!
@@joshuavalladolid9132 wut
I really enjoy your videos. The tests are very practical and i find them to be very informative. I would have liked to have seen knocker loose and in-force included in the testing as well as seeing if a blow from a hammer makes a difference
Good point. I some times will give a stuck bolt or nut a whack with a hammer or heavy wrench.
You deserve every single like and subscribe you get. Definitely in the top 5 of my favourite channels on RUclips.
I thought I was on AvE's channel for a second
LOL! He has a great channel!
LOL me too, but he's not a big fan of penetrating oils, in fact he says save your money.
I agree, KY works just as good...even Jiz works as good as any of it.
Project Farm God bless uncle bumblephac. The smartest idiot on RUclips. You did a stellar job with this one Mr. Farm.
This is the family friendly version.
Thank you for your diligence in the testing you do on any of your comparisons, I watch them all. In the 40 something years that I've been working on rusted things I can say I've never been overly impressed with any of these products except maybe Castle Thrust but in the end you can't beat the fire wrench.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Castle 'Thrust' is the best in my experience, when I can find it. I use it for a regular light weight lubricant on things like bike chains and derailleurs, car door hinges, etc. as well as a penetrating oil for stuck/rusty bolts it is a great product..better than 'Liquid Wrench' in my opinion. PB 'Blaster' is my second choice when I can't find Castle Thrust.
Always there when we need you the most, thank you Project Farm. Doing a engine rebuild that has been sitting for years. I know I need penetrating oil, but the question is, which one do I need?! Haha! Thank you again. Quality work.
Great video Review! I am a Electrician and I just bought a can of WD-40 to clean some surface rust off my tools that I regularly store in the trunk of my car. Have you done a study on which product removes and prevents tools from rusting?
That would be a great idea. Currently working on a disc and was just thinking the same thing.
As a moisture dispersant, WD-40 would help 'dry' the tools. Wrapping in an oily rag was always my simple preventative.
@@georgejessop3246 I thought that oily rags tend to spontaneously combust.
Love your vids Todd. Thank you.
Imo, Best part about WD40, is its neutral. It works on just about anything and wont harm surfaces, including your skin.
I use it on guns, woods, plastics, painted metals, tools, interiors, leather. It's even a pretty good cleaner. My wife cleans our stainless stove & refrigerator with WD40. We buy WD40 by the gallon. 😊
Colored plastics also wont fade or turn white from sunlight.
I wipe my 2014 kubota tractor down with WD40 all the time. After 10 years it still looks brand new while my Dads 2016 kubota is all faded with any plastic turning hazy white.
I also wipe our vehicles black plastics spoilers, mirrors, etc, with the same results.
And it does eventually evaporate, so surfaces dont stay oily or slippery, but maintain their shine and original colors.
No other penetrating oil I know of is that base neutral or has so many uses.
Example, You would NOT want to leave pb blaster or liquid wrench on your hands. It would burn you.
Fyi, transmission fluid is the best injector & carb cleaner there is imo. Just add a little to my diesel fuel or gas engines, cleans wax & carbon build ups spotless clean. Been using it for 40 years.
I've ran 1 million mile Caterpillar's truck engines and never replaced an injector.
An old timer in Texas told me about using trans fluid to clean my truck injectors back in the early 1980s. Been doing it ever since on EVERYTHING I own.
Experiment. Pull a spark plug to look at the black carbon build up. Add trans fluid to the gas, (on a normal car, I use 1 quart to 10 gallon gas) run that tank out, pull the same sparkplug again. It will be clean white.
Trans fluid not only losses all the carbon build ups in the engines heads & cleans the valves, it also totally liquifies & dissolves paraffin wax build ups in the fuels system. Works especially well on diesels.
You can go buy $40 per pint high dollar fuel system cleaner, that dont work, or just dump a quart of dextron tranny fluid in that I guarantee will work. 😊
Thanks and you are welcome!
I think you performed a very good test of these penetrating oils. My question is, how are the studs anchored to the angle iron? Are the holes threaded and the studs/bolts torqued in place? Thanks again for your time and for sharing this test. I'm a tad older than you, and I remember my Dad using Liquid Wrench. I have part of a machine I bought frozen from lack of use. I tried WD-40 with no results. So this video was very interesting and I think I'll try ole Liquid Wrench next and see what happens.
just a guess, but possibly 2 nuts on the back side.
I see that Superzilla has been mentioned by 4 others in the replies. This a somewhat new product as far as I recall. Knowing a fix-it show radio host boasts of how well Superzilla works, I'd like to see it included in a new review. I have become a big fan of Project Farm's videos and have told family members to check them out. Your work is smart and detailed. And, most importantly, you don't waste the viewers times with nonsense. Bravo!
Thanks for the suggestion.
Wow. I'm amazed liquid wrench was the best. On machining and gun smithing forums everybody universally recommends kroil. In fact I almost ordered some the other day. It looks like all the rest are almost the same as no lube at all. My solution to stuck fasteners is I just bought a new impact wrench rated at over 1,000ft.lbs. lol.
I can assure KROIL is worth it. This test was done on purposely made rust
WD-40 has their own rust release penetrate, i would of liked to see that. because if wd-40 itself was better than kroil and pb then i'd like to see what their rust penetrate can do!
Thank you for this recommendation!
Yea please do wd-40 specialist penetrate, its sold most places that have wd-40 and so would be good to know if i can't find liquid wrench. Thanks
I love watching your testing videos. I'm probably not ur target audience either (I'm a makeup artist) but I've been watching since u tested the diff kinds of duct tape. Thanks for the interesting vids & keep up the hard work! 😊
Thank you very much!!!
I don’t know why Kroil performed the way it did for up test but I swear by it in the field. I work on heavy equipment, often old and neglected, and when I’ve got a stuck/frozen connection or bearing I’ll break out the aerokroil asap and the majority of the time that’ll make it possible to remove, turn, slide whatever was stuck. I grew up a WD-40 guy, then became an advocate of PB blaster when I was introduced to it and saw what it could do, but once I was shown AeroKroil and then saw how much it could do for my work I’ve never looked back! It is hands down the absolute beast penetrating oil produced and worth everyone of the very many pennies it costs!
Thanks for sharing.
PB scares the bolt off with the smell.
LOL!
I was in a local big box hardware store. I was talking to my friend about project farm and how he does comparison tests. A random stranger that was in earshot said: that guy's the Shit, I watch his channel all of the time. The RTV silicone gasket maker was a really useful and informative video for me.
Thank you for the feedback!
@@ProjectFarmI watched this video on penetrating oil again, since I'm out of PB blaster. It's an old can. I'll go with the liquid wrench this time around. The PB blaster did the job on a sticking door latch on my front door. For as little as I need a penetrating oil, I'd prefer it in a small plastic squeeze bottle.
I'm wondering how one would quantify/ determine penetration through an opening of one millionth of an inch.
Sounds like the KROIL marketing department is working overtime.
Great point!
That would be with a microscope. I’m sure they all can go threw a hole that small.
I love the detail and care you put into making these tests as equal as possible. However being and advocate of kroil, I feel it was not represented well in this video. In my experience kroil works very fast. I can spray a bolt and within 2 to 5 mins the bolts is extremely easy to turn. After about 15 mins it’s almost as if you never applied it. I would love to see a video of kroil tested at different time intervals starting at about 2 mins, 5 then every 5 after. I think you would be surprised at the results. Keep up the great videos!
neat
Personal experience: “PB blaster” is the best ! However I’ll try “liquid wrench” next time !
Thank you for the feedback