Few things I learned doing this job: You DO NOT have to remove the stock collector from the up pipes to get them out. Just remove the manifold bolts on both sides and the entire assembly will pull out the top. Don't waste your time removing bolts you don't need to. On the Y collector/turbo clamp install: I torqued both up pipes to the collector and left the bolts to the manifolds loose on both sides. I then wrapped a ratchet strap around the up pipes/collector, ran the strap up and over the turbo and hooked the other end to the tire changing tools. The ratchet strap held the Y collector firm in place against the turbo while I put the clamp on. Literally had it done in 5 minutes. I watched just about every video and saw every writeup on this topic and was dreading the Y-Collector/Turbo clamp, if anyone else is about to do this job...use a ratchet strap around the Y Collector, that is how you get the clamp on! Also when removing the Up-pipe/exhaust manifold bolts, assuming they aren't totally rusted out and trashed, first spray them with WD-40 at least the day prior. DO NOT BLINDLY USE A 10MM & 13MM! You will strip the bolts and have to cut them off like almost every other person who's made these videos! I almost made the mistake myself going off a very popular writeup on how to do this. Try using a 3/8 wrench for the top and 1/2 socket for the bottom. Lastly, don't buy cheap Amazon junk to save a few bucks, just read the reviews about parts not fitting and cheap bolts/O-rings. I don't know about you but to me it's worth spending the extra $60-$100 from a reputable parts dealer to get good, quality parts that fit correctly. I certainly wouldn't want to take all of this apart just to find out there's a defect and nothing fits correctly. Hope this helps and makes things go smoother for somebody.
thanks for the tips, im about to try this beginning of next year just ordered all the parts and ill have a few days off. Will def give the ratchet strap a try and thanks for the tip pulling the collector and pipes out from top side.
My bolts are trashed I mean I’ve used knocker loose pb and some sea foam I just don’t see them coming off nicely. I’m not gonna use a torch especially since I don’t have one at hand. But cutting them off? How the heck am I gonna get a cut off wheel in there
Blow it out your a** dude. I just wasted two f**king hours because of you trying to unsuccessfully pull the up pipes still attached to the connector out. So thanks for that gem.
Yeah, I pulled everything out of the way (turbo, pedastal) and tried to pull collector out with both pipes still attached. Not happening. I'll even post a video in a little bit showing how impossible that is.
Manifold bolts can be done from underneath vehicle without removing fenderwell plastic using a short 10mm wrench for top of bolts. Its tight but doable. the real pain is the up pipe to turbo union/ v-band clamp and getting the alignment on the new set up.
learned doing this job: I torqued both up pipes to the collector and left the bolts to the manifolds loose on both sides. I then wrapped a ratchet strap around the up pipes/collector, ran the strap up and over the turbo and hooked the other end to the tire changing tools. The ratchet strap held the Y collector firm in place against the turbo while I put the clamp on. Literally had it done in 5 minutes. I watched just about every video and saw every writeup on this topic and was dreading the Y-Collector/Turbo clamp, if anyone else is about to do this job...use a ratchet strap around the Y! Hope this helps and makes things go smoother for somebody.
@George Terzides Nice to see it helped you as well. I've received some positive feedback and occasionally some negative from people saying that was pointless or wouldn't work so I'm glad it helped
Mines are either rounded out or someone changed them cause a 8 fits tight a 10 is loose. And the 13 on the other side is impossible to get. The 13 is on the uppipe real tight on the driver side. And the “8” isn’t budging it’s just slipping off.
I removed my manifold bolts first, you are correct. I didn't remove the splash guards. I'm glad I saw your comment before starting this job. Thank you for your help ☺️👍
I wonder if by torching off the up pipes you got slag in the exhaust manifold then when you started it it wound up in your turbo chowdering your new wheel. Not a smart move.
The V band clamp? Take the nut off and separate clamp as much as you can. Get some thing (like a screwdriver) in against the clamp and tap it with a hammer to pop it loose. Try a few different spots on the clamp. Sorry, I know it’s hard to get it off.
Rochelle Millmine wrong. The donuts are at the collector. The up pipe to manifold have no gaskets, they have a flange. But with bellowed pipes there’s no donuts at all.
Even with all this, i cannot for the life of me get the collector to line up.. i thought i had it lines up earlier with a friend helping, didn't realise friend removed bolts from manilfold so now they don't line up. Im at such a loss right now.
My man that is definitely a 7.3 engine bay from 99.5 to early 2003)...Don't ever again show me a 2002 F-350 Powerstroke Truck with some sort of 6.0 Powerstroke Badge on the side of that truck... End of trusting you.
Few things I learned doing this job:
You DO NOT have to remove the stock collector from the up pipes to get them out. Just remove the manifold bolts on both sides and the entire assembly will pull out the top. Don't waste your time removing bolts you don't need to.
On the Y collector/turbo clamp install:
I torqued both up pipes to the collector and left the bolts to the manifolds loose on both sides. I then wrapped a ratchet strap around the up pipes/collector, ran the strap up and over the turbo and hooked the other end to the tire changing tools. The ratchet strap held the Y collector firm in place against the turbo while I put the clamp on. Literally had it done in 5 minutes. I watched just about every video and saw every writeup on this topic and was dreading the Y-Collector/Turbo clamp, if anyone else is about to do this job...use a ratchet strap around the Y Collector, that is how you get the clamp on!
Also when removing the Up-pipe/exhaust manifold bolts, assuming they aren't totally rusted out and trashed, first spray them with WD-40 at least the day prior. DO NOT BLINDLY USE A 10MM & 13MM! You will strip the bolts and have to cut them off like almost every other person who's made these videos! I almost made the mistake myself going off a very popular writeup on how to do this. Try using a 3/8 wrench for the top and 1/2 socket for the bottom.
Lastly, don't buy cheap Amazon junk to save a few bucks, just read the reviews about parts not fitting and cheap bolts/O-rings. I don't know about you but to me it's worth spending the extra $60-$100 from a reputable parts dealer to get good, quality parts that fit correctly. I certainly wouldn't want to take all of this apart just to find out there's a defect and nothing fits correctly.
Hope this helps and makes things go smoother for somebody.
thanks for the tips, im about to try this beginning of next year just ordered all the parts and ill have a few days off. Will def give the ratchet strap a try and thanks for the tip pulling the collector and pipes out from top side.
Thank you my mouth just fell open watching this video I can't sleep going in the shop right now to start sense I've read your post thanks again 👍!!
My bolts are trashed I mean I’ve used knocker loose pb and some sea foam I just don’t see them coming off nicely. I’m not gonna use a torch especially since I don’t have one at hand. But cutting them off? How the heck am I gonna get a cut off wheel in there
Blow it out your a** dude. I just wasted two f**king hours because of you trying to unsuccessfully pull the up pipes still attached to the connector out.
So thanks for that gem.
Yeah, I pulled everything out of the way (turbo, pedastal) and tried to pull collector out with both pipes still attached.
Not happening. I'll even post a video in a little bit showing how impossible that is.
Manifold bolts can be done from underneath vehicle without removing fenderwell plastic using a short 10mm wrench for top of bolts.
Its tight but doable. the real pain is the up pipe to turbo union/ v-band clamp and getting the alignment on the new set up.
learned doing this job:
I torqued both up pipes to the collector and left the bolts to the manifolds loose on both sides. I then wrapped a ratchet strap around the up pipes/collector, ran the strap up and over the turbo and hooked the other end to the tire changing tools. The ratchet strap held the Y collector firm in place against the turbo while I put the clamp on. Literally had it done in 5 minutes. I watched just about every video and saw every writeup on this topic and was dreading the Y-Collector/Turbo clamp, if anyone else is about to do this job...use a ratchet strap around the Y!
Hope this helps and makes things go smoother for somebody.
@@a98ctr62 Thank you! I've been fighting the Y collector for 30 min, with your tip I was done in 5.
@George Terzides Nice to see it helped you as well. I've received some positive feedback and occasionally some negative from people saying that was pointless or wouldn't work so I'm glad it helped
Mines are either rounded out or someone changed them cause a 8 fits tight a 10 is loose. And the 13 on the other side is impossible to get. The 13 is on the uppipe real tight on the driver side. And the “8” isn’t budging it’s just slipping off.
I removed my manifold bolts first, you are correct. I didn't remove the splash guards. I'm glad I saw your comment before starting this job. Thank you for your help ☺️👍
Thank you. I am doing the job right now. I am stumped on the back clamp too.
Wait you can take off the up pipes without removing the engine? Yayy
Watch Thoroughbred Diesel video on turbo removal. No cutting torch needed to remove the up pipes
I wonder if by torching off the up pipes you got slag in the exhaust manifold then when you started it it wound up in your turbo chowdering your new wheel. Not a smart move.
Slag? What do you mean? How would you do this if your bolts are toast im lost at the moment
I plan on doing this but also replacing my manifolds because they are also a leak spot as they age.
well i did the turbo rebuild and now i just gotta remove the old up pipes. decided to ignore manifolds despite the small leaks.
Im not able to cut those up pipe bolts and i cant find any videos of someone who didnt do it the lazy way
@@psd28 What did you end up doing? Did you do the manifolds?
@@shifty198885 had a shop do it, replaced the drivers side manifold
But now the truck got hit by a drunk driver
I am really trying hard to get the back clamp off and nothing seems to be working, please help me
The V band clamp? Take the nut off and separate clamp as much as you can. Get some thing (like a screwdriver) in against the clamp and tap it with a hammer to pop it loose. Try a few different spots on the clamp. Sorry, I know it’s hard to get it off.
Oil leak 7.3 how to find it
I need my uppipes in my excursion but it sounds expencive lol
Dude, no torches involved in this job ever. 20 minutes to pull turbo. Hit up pipe clamp with a pry bar
Is there a gasket between the manifold and up pipe or just metal to metal?
Metal to metal. It’s like a flange, they clamp together and it seals itself.
There are gaskets they look like 2 little blue doughnuts
Rochelle Millmine wrong. The donuts are at the collector. The up pipe to manifold have no gaskets, they have a flange. But with bellowed pipes there’s no donuts at all.
@@jarrodbaker575 the donut gaskets between the uppipes and collector should always be replaced. no gaskets ever between uppipes and manifolds.
Gasket to the y connector are just thin metal some kits come with it.
Is it basically the same for 96 7.3
Great informative video, thinking of doing it myself.
The head of ANY fastener does NOT indicate its size.
Even with all this, i cannot for the life of me get the collector to line up.. i thought i had it lines up earlier with a friend helping, didn't realise friend removed bolts from manilfold so now they don't line up. Im at such a loss right now.
My man that is definitely a 7.3 engine bay from 99.5 to early 2003)...Don't ever again show me a 2002 F-350 Powerstroke Truck with some sort of 6.0 Powerstroke Badge on the side of that truck... End of trusting you.
Previous owner replaced the doors and the box. The badges on the doors confuse a lot of people. I got rust free doors though!
buy a microphone next time...
Need better mic