One of the biggest things that people miss is spraying technique. The smooth, overlapping wet coats is one of the most important things to do properly. The clear was sprayed very well, that's a huge factor in why the finished job looks so good. A light wet sand (2000-2500 grit) and buff would make it look just as good, if not better, than oem paint.
Just canned my car it looks amazing for my first time!! I studied all of your videos religiously trying to learn your techniques and such, keep up the good work man these videos are still helping people!!
I used that clear coat on my rear view mirrors and that is the only clear coat paint (from a can) that hasn't failed me. I had it for little over a year now and it still looks like it was painted yesterday. I have tried other brands and in less then a year the clear coat gets dull and starts peeling but with this clear coat you never have to worry.
Used the same clear when I painted my motorcycle (which was my only form of transportation for about 2 years.) 5 years later and it looks as good as it did when I first painted it. No lie though, wear a respirator!
Great painters can get great results! The real surprise to me is the fact that the 2k clear is compatible with the rattle can paint. Thanks for the very informative video.
This is one of the best 2k spray can demonstration I can find on RUclips, thank you so much for your efforts putting the video together, looking forward to more awesome spray paint videos in the future!! Good job man!!
My daughter bought a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has great paint except for the hood. It’s not rusted the paint is mostly gone. I’ll be using this to repaint it! Those results look fantastic for so little money. Thank you for posting this!
I have spray painted many "things" in my life and my biggest frustration has ALWAYS been that i cant seem to get a clear coat that is either true clear or wont yellow. 2k is news to me. Thank You!
I love 2k in a can I've had more success with it then spraying 2k clear and a legit paint gun/compressor. Much less to go wrong, but if you did more than a few panels you will spend so much more using it.
It was cheaper for me to go and buy a 6pack for 109$ than to buy the $200+ spray gun paint+hardener and buy a 60$ water separator. But if you have a good compressor and setup then it would be a better option. I did my wife crv lastnight and did a video so gonna post it up shortly! :D
The more I watch these videos the more I feel like painting my car and possibly my truck too. That looks nice, amazing how paint in a can has evolved over the years. Back in the 80's when I did a car, you couldn't get clear coat and paint in a can at this quality, the paint had to be purchased from a auto parts store and applied using a gun if you wanted quality job. If I do my car, I'll do it like this, one panel at a time, within a short period of time using of course the original color. This looks real good for a can.
I stand by this. I’ve used this method a few times. That 2k clear in a aerosol can is one of the coolest products. Expensive but worth it. If you want some metallic flake use rustoleum “top coat effects”. On top of the base coat and before the clear coat. I also recommend Rustoleum Universal series with the 2k Clear.
I have a 1960 f100 that we painted at the vo-tech school. The students needed work & I had 10 cases of spray paint, primer & 10 of clear. They did what little body work it needed & we went to work priming and sanding. We went ford blue on the bottom & white on top with white in the cab. Like this guy, we took the time to sand primer perfect, lay down the paint correctly & wet sand between coats. We laid down 6 coats of clear & the instructor did the final wet sand himself & he strictly supervised the final rubout as well. He had one student that was painting & did the final rubout. We used krylon & like this video tells us, time, patience & focus makes a great paint job. The truck still looks brand new after 30 years, but it is well taken care of.
Do you have a 5 year update? Interested in how it held up. Any issues with off gassing of the paint? I buy and flip cars and this would be a huge thing to aide in getting them prettied up.
The solvents in the 2k clear are so strong they leveled the underlying coats of primer/paint. check the msds and you'll see what I mean. We used to level paint years ago with a similar product.
Same exact stuff Eastwood sells as their brand...but several dollars cheaper. Just used this for the first time a few days ago and I am very impressed.
There are many factors in getting a good result. One plan I discovered that successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the most incredible info that I have ever seen. Check out this interesting website. @David Guyton
Let me just say thank you from the bottom of my heart... I have never painted a car in my life and I'm disabled and I painted about 75% of my car using your Technique and she came out beautifully... I cried for about an hour... there is some orange peel but honestly I think that's unavoidable with spray paint... I'm going to wait about a month and then take her to a detailer for a good buff polish and wax... I do have one question something fell from the garage roof and there is a repair area of about the size of a quarter in two spots near the rear of the car how do I repair that I have a half a can of spray Max clear left which has to be used before the end of tomorrow
Sand the spots down to the primer. If metal go all the way. Finish with 400 grit sand paper. Take 4 pieces of paper and fold them. Place them around the outskirts . They will feather the paint.
Understood- time is of essence- step 1: grab your heat gun and get those spots not only good and dry but also nice and warm for new repair:) Step 2: grab your dremmel tool and start dremmelling those areas out, carefully feathering into the fine finish. Step 3: fill with filler if necessary or just build up the paint until it sits higher than the rest of the panel. Step 4: sand using 1k-2k grit until it planes again. Step 5: clear coat that mamba jamba 1-3 coats, then using the same sand paper take it back down to smooth. Use heat gun to speed process and dry times. 6. use buffing/cutting compound- go yo town! 7. Use polish if necessary - you got this!☝
Thank you , I just finished painting my vintage Harley that I’m restoring,, rattle can base and finish with 2k spray max ,,, wow what a result,,, I’m never paying a professional again
I have seen a few of your paint jobs among others. After this video and seeing your progress as a painter and videographer improve, I've subscribed. Rustoleum products always seem like the bang bang for the buck, not cheap crap and not very high end. It's great that I can beat up my jeep then touch up and buff it out. Keep the videos coming!
Wow that is ridiculous especially considering how much those trucks are. I haven't seen any of the new trucks up close but I wouldn't have guessed they have bad paint
...I used a good brand of OEM color paint, plus 2K clear coat in "clear glamour" on my 2002 Toyota Camry. I kept getting too many dry spots and no blending of the 2K stuff. Figured it was my technique, the ambient temperature, something else but didn't think it might be the clear coat. I tried using the 2-cans-at-once technique that another fellow has a video about, exact title "How to clear coat better with spray cans". And I did notice better results right away; the two-can method isn't as cheap but it works better - but still, too many dry spots and/or the clear coat was not blending right for a consistent shine! Finally I tried a different brand and bought "ERA Paints 2K High Gloss Automotive Clear Coat" from amazon. And again used the 2-can method. And I noticed a dramatic improvement: it blended just about perfectly, no dry spots!! Finally achieved a smooth consistent finish, that looks how a clear coat is supposed to. By far the best clear coat I tried (of 4 different brands). Only going to use the Era paints clear coat from now on (and no I have no financial stake in this company - I just am passing on what I learned so you don't have the same frustrating mistakes I made!)
chucky luvs kalae . A de-nib and spot polish is all that should be required. anybody that needs to sand and buff there finish doesnt know How refinishing works.
Problem with wetsanding is that you take great risk leaving deep scratch marks and you'll have to wetsand again and again to remove the scratches it's very risky and painful and time consuming job.
@@rockefelleragent1357 i think the deep scratches would happen if its not done properly. when done properly deep scratches arent left. the real problem with wet sanding spray bomb clears is the spray bombs have to be thinned down considerably to get them to spray at the low pressure. that leads to thin mils per coat. that can lead to sanding through the clear real easy.
So I assume this "Spray Max" 2K clear is a urethane based product? I was wondering how well this would bond/stick (LONG TERM) to "Rustoleum" which is oil based? I don't believe they are chemically compatible products; i.e they don't chemically bond but they apparently "adhesively" bond like tape. Especially since you only gave the oil based paint only 10 minutes flash time before applying the clear. In my experience with oil paint; it takes weeks or months for it to fully dry (depending on temperature). urethane clear actually chemically bonds (vs "sticks") to urethane based paint so the clear stays on for years. So your video was made ~ 4 years ago; How is the clear holding up? Any dis-bonding of the clear observed? Thanks!
so impressed that you share tips when you experience a problem like the glove, you could have easily said nothing those small things make a difference plus you actually do learn from your mistakes as it shows when your passing on to others to help others
Did you know, you can now have special colors mixed and have it put into spray cannister, the shop where I have my paints mixed has a new mashines that does that. So you can match your cars paint exactly and have it put in cannisters. 2k or Basecoat.
Ive done this very thing. Send them the color code and they send it to you in a can. I used this when I painted interior parts of my car and fiberglass enclosures.
I just watched this after being depressed by the Eastwood "Four Steps to Paint Your Car" (if you have a week and a thousand sheets of sandpaper). Your solution looks much quicker and with a compound polish, plenty shiny!
I've seen several similar videos and this is by far the best one! Wish you'd spent an additional 90sec or so briefly showing the wet sanding with the different grits but other than that....fantastic job! I'm gonna save this to my liked videos and be using it as a reference whenever I get around to painting my vehicle. A++
Because it isn't that easy to get hold of a 2K paint can I've been fighting with making a 1k clearcoat get up to the standards of the rest of my paint finish. Watching this video alone has convinced me to take the effort to find a distributor willing to get the 2k in for me so I can get the finish that I need.
Did this exact thing, with the exact same color on one of my guitars about 3 years ago & while it came out really nice the clear coat didn't last. It started pealing off about a year ago.
This is what happens when you spray a 2k product over a 1k product. It's like putting glass on top of jello. Eventually the glass with shift. 1k products can reflow with heat or solvents. 2k never reflows. Might look nice for a bit but will not last. There was a comment in here I read about getting products mixed for color from your automotive paint store, That are 2k aswell. This is the way to go if you want it to last and still be a cheap ratlecan job. You can make it look good with ratlecans and have it last. It just has to be done properly. Check your tech sheets. Tds(technical data sheets) on your products. They tell you everything you need to know about the product. If you are unsure, call a representative of the company.
I use this 2k clear on many model car projects. I also at times use Kraylon or Rustoleum paint like you have done here. I haven't had any issues. When I want a high gloss finish I use it. Only situation I have is I need to clear two or three models since the shelf life isn't very long. It doesn't seem to take very long to gas out like some clears do. The sanding an buffing is easy.
I paint Jets and prep is the key step in either a good or great paint job. You prep for 13 days and paint 1 day. Better make sure everything is Flawless!!
I used Dupli-color clear coat for wheels on a fender once because the can said that it dried extra hard and I guess they are right. I had that car for years and it looked glossy like this 2k clear and it never faded. I would like to try this clear coat out on some projects I have planned for my car.
Great job! Quick tip for everyone reading this: Use the tack cloth between coats, especially on larger surfaces. Keep up the great work!!! This channel should boom in no time.
i would rather look for closed doors and a watered floor.....tackcloth is nice but wouldnt do it when using cans...its better to shoot wetcoats to compensate for lack of pressure from cans. i know what you mean...but here we have to apply paint a little differend to be able to achive a smooth endproduct. plus when tacking you want also air following the rub....wich in this case is not giving. but you are right...normally you tack it to get the dust off.
Don't tack the clear coat though, unless it has some kind of instant hardener in it (I highly doubt with a 48hr pot life in the can) you'll just ruin your 1st coat of clear. Which happens to be the most important coat
Great video! I've been researching this topic relentlessly. Was regretting my choice in painting my restored 53' Farmall tractor with rust oleum farm and implement paint. It has turned out nice so far but I became very concerned about the longevity and durability. Im at the point where its time to paint the sheet metal and I really want a quality finish. Ive used hardener in the paint with good results.Flashes fast. However it does take a long time for the rust oleum to fully cure in the south GA humidity. Was surprised to see you spray the clear so soon after the paint. As all the research I've done points toward letting the paint fully cure. especially rust oleum. Thanks for the video! Really boosted my confidence in this painting process!
When I paint with spray cans I always lightly wet sand the primer, basecost, and I do a flow coat on the clear coat, and it's very smoothe as glass. Barley no imperfections if any at all.
The Spraymax 2K Clear is great stuff. I've used it on alot of low budget paintjobs and it allways turns out great. And since its fuelproof as soon as it has cured you can also use it for tanks on bikes.
An old painter's trick with catalyzed paints is to put them in the refrigerator to extend the potlife. If you have clear left go ahead and stick it in the fridge, you may get a extra couple of days before it hardens, maybe even a week.
What is it compatible with (Acrylic, Enamel or Urethane) ? Does it get stronger if you bake it or use hot air for example 80..100 °C (176 .. 212 °Fahrenheit) ?
Never heard of 2K clear. Very interesting how it has a hardener in it .I have some gym equipment I’d like to paint , and also have a durable surface . This looks like it may be the answer . Nice work btw
Wow looks like 2k clear is the way to go! I used rustoleum laquer clear from autozone, I havent sanded it and buffed it yet to see how it looks but if you have to crack the can and mix the paint then 2k is already better quality. The rustoleum clear does also have a wide spray tip as well, Im gonna save that tip and use it on other cans. Great video as usual!
From everything I've read, you shouldn't spray urethane based clear coat (i.e. the Spraymax 2K) over non-urethane based paint (i.e. Rustoleum 2X). So what's the deal, does this only look good for a little bit before the clear coat starts to fall off?
I have heard the same thing. Though I know if you let the non urethane paint gas off and cure... Then wet sand and clear with 2k everything works out fine. Most canned paint cures through evaporation... 2k cures because it's a 2 part catalyst clear. I don't understand how this 2k doesn't cause issues with the Rust-Oleum which clearly needs to gas off and cure under the... Essentially plastic clear coat.
Great video man without a lot of talking, you stayed on point and made it easy to follow. You've giving me more confidence that I paint my own car, keep up the good work!
@@Josemartinez-hb5fm what about this am I lieing about? Go to my channel and see the Mitsubishi eclipse I'm working on. Already told everybody I was doing it.
Seems strange that a primer and base coat that do not have a hardener can be chemically bonded to a clear with a hardener. Spraying wet (after flashing) on wet is chem bonded vs. letting dry, scuffing, and then coating which is mechanical bonding. But spraying wet, the primer and color are expected to outgas the solvents at a rate that facilitates the bond, but with a hardened clear, it would seem it would seal the layers and prevent proper outgassing of the undercoats. But as this video shows, and my many examples of doing this exact thing myself, it does work, and the Spraymax makes for a much more durable finish than going with Rustoleum clear. Nice video, thanks.
How has your paint held so far? Do you have any paint that is over a year old that still looks good. I really want to do this and wonder how it holds up?
Very informative video. Thank you for sharing this. I have now used this on several refurbished and repainted machines and love how this stuff makes the color pop, and keeps dirt from sticking.
Dude awesome thanks for the tips and videos. Question you say the paint and primer dries in 15 or 20 mins. mine doesn't is it i don't shake the can long enough? I live in Tx. it gets really hot down here. if i paint with in 15 or 20 mins my paint bubbles up or cracks. any tips brother thanks again
holy fucking shit, I've been searching the web for half a year to find this answer. Some people say never put 2k clear on cheap lacquer paint, other people say its ok if you let the paint dry for two days. but after looking at your video it is clear. thank you so much for uploading!
I use that 2K. I restore old motorcycles.It's all I use. One tip. If you wet sand your color-coat before clearing there will be zero need to color sand orange peel....
Great product. I paint goalie masks and use rustoleum primer. Followed by art work/air brushing then spray max 2k. Wet shine and durable. No difference from when I use to get an auto body shop to clear. I’ve taken a lot of shots to the mask, no paint chips
GoPro Goalie Uzi Big fan Uzi. Question. If you use rusto as primer which is oil based what type of paint are you brushing with? Oil or water based? Want to find out about compatibility. Also how long do you wait between for gases to cook off? Did a hextall tribute mask with spray cans and came out well but a couple months later I have cracks in what I hope is just the clear. Didn't sand yet to re clear and find out
GoalieDad 1974 as far as I’m aware rustoleum primer I use is not oil based. I sand mask with 400 grit, clean it then spray white primer. Few coats. I let it dry and cure for 48hrs. Then I airbrush using createx wicked. Water based. Lots of pro use it too. Then I let dry for 24hrs and then 3 coats of 2k. No issues ever..chk out my mask painting on my channel
I have always wondered. It seems that a painter would want primer and paint color to stick with hardener. Then the clear over the top can’t blame what is under it for not sticking to the body panel. But, the logic is that the hardener should be in the clear to protect from sun and the clear what holds the paint down and prevents peeling? Thanks for your videos. They are helpful.
I used the 2K clear on a bike frame that I ended up leaving outside in the sun, rain and wind for 2 years. I cleaned it up with some Simple Green and it still looked as good as the day I painted it. But yeah, the stuff isn't cheep so plan ahead and clear coat multiple items to use it all up in the 24hr window. Nice tip about the glove by the way.
that 2k is dam good shit i used it a while back repainting motorcycle fairings i actually went and had some paint mixed up color matched and put in rattle cans from a local paint shop it turned out amazing
Great job and awesome video but I couldn't help but laugh when you said to make sure to keep your finger nice and tight up in there and concentrate on the tip!!
@@sugadew Primer could mean that it will stick to whatever surface you're spraying. If there are any imperfections, I would think you'd need something else.
Did this on my integra but with white paint came out fabulous. I did 3 coats of clear. And while driving under normal conditions I got a rock chip on the fender I painted took the whole clear coat off where it hit, barely noticeable but it's there lol.
You want to preferably wait longer than 24 hours before wet sanding and buffing that 2K clear from the spray can, best to wait at least 3 days, 7 is optimal.
Billy Masoner u the can must have a fair amount of hardener or something because the can says wait 24hour before wet sanding but it’s always preferred to wait longer for me at least
James D guy yes that’s what I was saying, at least 24 hours, but it’s been my experience that the clear has still been too soft at that point and it’s better to wait a few days more.
Billy Masoner I’ve had that experience but only after attempting to apply additional coats on top of wet coats and it seemed lengthened the flash time which made the clear coat seem soft after the 24hr mark. Always let it flash first before applying another coat, especially after you mess up. Let a mistake be a mistake and correct it by a wet sand once it has flashed instead of getting too antsy. That’s a big time noob mistake I made. Also Outdoor temp and airflow over the basecoat/primer/clear coat always make the difference in the finished product besides prepping.
It looks really good. I guess the only downside if you wanted to do a whole car would be the cost per can of the clear would push you up to the cost of a basic Maaco, or similar discount auto paint shop, basic paint service cost. However, if you had a compressor and a gun, you could just get yourself a gallon of acrylic clear for, maybe $40-60 and you come out way ahead, even if you count the cost of the compressor, filter, hose, and gun, which you would then have for future projects.
I have all the stuff to do gun jobs. Im showing what you can do if you DONT have all that stuff and if you are on a budget then $20 can + $5 can of paint to do a fender. You spend $25 you can do 2 fenders with 1 can of clear and 1 can of color. So spend $25 every time you can afford it to get decent results. That's the point of these videos and not everyone has a shop/Garage or a place for a compressor/lines/Gun so on. I have all that stuff already. Watch my newer videos where i paint with raptor liner.
Only thing is by using this premix cannister, once you've mixed it you have to finish it or throw away the remainder paint left in the cannister. So have enough work prepared to finish cannister. But it looks good.. I would have been very weary to put 2 k over normal Duco, as 2k or basecoat do not work on top of old car paint like an old Escort mark2, it shrivels the ols paint, You have to put at least 2 extremely dry coats of MS Primer.
Looks amazing. Just fyi though man you might want to change your respirator cartridges to the 3m P100 for organic vapors. 2k clear has isocyanates that are odorless and very dangerous. Normal respirators don't protect against that.
This spray paint has its place, but I think you’d spend more trying to paint an entire car with it. Find a local independent body shop and ask if you can rent their booth for a day (preferably on the weekend so you don’t disrupt their business). If that doesn’t work, it is possible to build your own temporary paint booth with plastic, box fans, cheap filters, and 2x4’s. Get some friends to help, and you all can paint your cars yourself. Find a decent sized air compressor (if you can’t rent a booth). You can paint a car with a15-30 gal compressor (the higher cfm @ 40 psi the better). You can probably rent one for a weekend, or check craigslist and/or Facebook marketplace for a good deal (once again, find some friends to split the cost with. See the theme here?) The trick is to only paint a section of the car at one time (front cap, roof and doors, trunk and quarters). This works best with solid colors, not as good with metallics, not good at all with candies. If you have a bigger compressor (12 cfm/60-80 gal), then shoot the whole car at once. Get a Harbor Freight paint gun kit ($40, not the $10 purple gun). Use it a few times and throw it away when it starts spraying funny. Price some Nason base and clear from your paint supply store. If you don’t have access to that, shop online for something like Urekem. Check TCP Global as well. You will be surprised at how affordable decent paint is. If your painting a solid color, consider single stage urethane. If you screw it up bad enough, you can always hit it with some 600 grit and clear it. So let’s total this up, for an average sized car. Conventional method: Booth rental-$200-$400 Temp booth-$300 max Air compressor-$100 or less Paint-$300 for base clear kit (Urekem) Misc supplies-$200 (primer, tape, Harbor Freight spray gun) Doing it the right way=$900 (does not account for friends chipping in) Spray can method: No booth needed (recommended, but not required) Spray can 2k primer-$200 Cheap laquer primer-$75 Spray can 2k base-$200 Cheap acrylic or laquer spray paint-$75 Spray can 2k clear-$200 Misc supplies-$75 Total-$425 to $675 Compare the finishes of both methods. The costs can fluctuate with both methods, but the conventional method will be cheaper in the long run and have a way more durable and nicer result. Mixing laquer/acrylic paints with urethane top coats will not hold up as long as true 2k base/clear. And, you and your friends will gain valuable skills and experience doing it the right way!
I've got some black color motorcycle odds and ends that need repainting or spot painting. This is a great video for the non-pro painter to get good results using spray cans. Thanks much!
Bloody awesome work mate, thanks heaps for all the great tips. Gotta spray my car later on and always like to get the goods from peeps that know what the hell they are doing. Cheers bro.
Hi, I'm a 62-year-old disabled guy that loves hi 2001 E430 and while learning to buff and paint correct, I burnt through the clear coat. Well, I began painting my errors with spray cans from a touch-up company but in some places where I applied the spray paint, there is an accumulation of spray paint where a finish stroking and do the return stroke and its leaving marks. Is that normal or did I screw up? I have not laid down the clear coat yet, HELP!!!!
@@JamesDguy When i return with the paint stroke, you know going back and forth, it leaves a heavier blob of paint there where i iniciate the return stroke. Kind of like stripes.
painted my rims the same way. rustoleum and 2k clear. And back then i never knew you can’t mix paint brands. but nowadays i use the rustoleum 2000 degree clear coat cause it’s cheaper
Thank u for putting these videos out...they r so amazing...your lime green car..is so koool...the fender looks like a $1500.00 paint job...can't tell the difference...amazing
?? Won’t there be long term issues with the 2X Rust-Oleum paint that has now been sealed by the 2K clear. It has always been my understanding that normal spray can paint never fully cures and will now stay softer, especially when it’s been sealed. So eventually the Rust-Oleum under the clear will shrink, discolor and try to escape the bond and start lifting and begin to crack or flake the clear coat? And how much bond does the hard cured clear coat have to the softer un cured Rust-Oleum base coat? It’s like a m&m soft inside and a hard candy coating on the outside.
Moore Motorsports James Dguy it does take a long time and when it does it starts to turn into a powder substance when all the oil in the spray paint finally dissipates from the sun. Under the 2K primer is a spray paint that can’t cure properly so it will be very soft and can be subject to separation, wrinkles and color issues. Putting the hard cured 2K clear over it is sealing it up just like putting the spray paint back in the can without any air to help it cure it never will. I’m not denying the fact that it looks great, but there could be issues down the rd, hopefully later than sooner. Have you tried letting the spray paint dry for 24 hours then scuff and then put the 2K clear over it?
Is it (the 2K stuff) alright to use on previously sprayed (fully cured) Rustoleum? My truck's already painted, but I blew off the clear coat, was planning on doing a scuff & touch-up this spring when the weather permits, and THEN doing the clear. I've had some really bad results shooting clear over cured rustoleum on guitar bodies..it lifts paint like stripper..hate to do that to a whole full size truck. :-) Thanks in advance..cool video.
One of the biggest things that people miss is spraying technique. The smooth, overlapping wet coats is one of the most important things to do properly. The clear was sprayed very well, that's a huge factor in why the finished job looks so good. A light wet sand (2000-2500 grit) and buff would make it look just as good, if not better, than oem paint.
Would you wet sand with a machine or just by hand? What's the best technique.
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@@sonarc6009 by hand cross hatch no pressure and soapy water
Just canned my car it looks amazing for my first time!! I studied all of your videos religiously trying to learn your techniques and such, keep up the good work man these videos are still helping people!!
I used that clear coat on my rear view mirrors and that is the only clear coat paint (from a can) that hasn't failed me. I had it for little over a year now and it still looks like it was painted yesterday. I have tried other brands and in less then a year the clear coat gets dull and starts peeling but with this clear coat you never have to worry.
Used the same clear when I painted my motorcycle (which was my only form of transportation for about 2 years.) 5 years later and it looks as good as it did when I first painted it. No lie though, wear a respirator!
Great painters can get great results! The real surprise to me is the fact that the 2k clear is compatible with the rattle can paint. Thanks for the very informative video.
Really hoping 2k clear and rattle can rustoleum is compatible.
This is one of the best 2k spray can demonstration I can find on RUclips, thank you so much for your efforts putting the video together, looking forward to more awesome spray paint videos in the future!! Good job man!!
No problem! I love doing this! So be sure to check back i will have more!
I have 5 years with the clear 2k and it still looks as good as the day I used it.
Did you first spray with 2k color paint then a coat of 2k clear?
My daughter bought a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has great paint except for the hood. It’s not rusted the paint is mostly gone. I’ll be using this to repaint it! Those results look fantastic for so little money. Thank you for posting this!
Here is a 6 pack of the 2k clear that I used!
amzn.to/2GMmQaM
Or buy just one with this link
amzn.to/2KI9xJz
Jay Johnson The 6 cans should be enough to do an entire car. I have a link here to buy them individual
amzn.to/2KI9xJz
dude u just help some many people who want to do something , actually do it,..no excuses with this video
I have spray painted many "things" in my life and my biggest frustration has ALWAYS been that i cant seem to get a clear coat that is either true clear or wont yellow. 2k is news to me. Thank You!
be careful though 2k is dangerous. 2k also goes thru your skin so you gotta cover that aswell
bigmac22ify dangerous in ways besides if you inhale it?
@@alyxskyler yeah besides that its toxic when you breath it, it is toxic on your skin
I love 2k in a can I've had more success with it then spraying 2k clear and a legit paint gun/compressor. Much less to go wrong, but if you did more than a few panels you will spend so much more using it.
It was cheaper for me to go and buy a 6pack for 109$ than to buy the $200+ spray gun paint+hardener and buy a 60$ water separator. But if you have a good compressor and setup then it would be a better option. I did my wife crv lastnight and did a video so gonna post it up shortly! :D
The more I watch these videos the more I feel like painting my car and possibly my truck too. That looks nice, amazing how paint in a can has evolved over the years. Back in the 80's when I did a car, you couldn't get clear coat and paint in a can at this quality, the paint had to be purchased from a auto parts store and applied using a gun if you wanted quality job. If I do my car, I'll do it like this, one panel at a time, within a short period of time using of course the original color. This looks real good for a can.
I stand by this. I’ve used this method a few times. That 2k clear in a aerosol can is one of the coolest products. Expensive but worth it. If you want some metallic flake use rustoleum “top coat effects”. On top of the base coat and before the clear coat. I also recommend Rustoleum Universal series with the 2k Clear.
I have a 1960 f100 that we painted at the vo-tech school. The students needed work & I had 10 cases of spray paint, primer & 10 of clear. They did what little body work it needed & we went to work priming and sanding. We went ford blue on the bottom & white on top with white in the cab. Like this guy, we took the time to sand primer perfect, lay down the paint correctly & wet sand between coats. We laid down 6 coats of clear & the instructor did the final wet sand himself & he strictly supervised the final rubout as well. He had one student that was painting & did the final rubout. We used krylon & like this video tells us, time, patience & focus makes a great paint job. The truck still looks brand new after 30 years, but it is well taken care of.
Im glad you posted this. I've been using my spray gun. I hate mixing in the hardener and reducer. So this is great! Will save me time!
Do you have a 5 year update? Interested in how it held up. Any issues with off gassing of the paint? I buy and flip cars and this would be a huge thing to aide in getting them prettied up.
The solvents in the 2k clear are so strong they leveled the underlying coats of primer/paint.
check the msds and you'll see what I mean. We used to level paint years ago with a similar product.
Same exact stuff Eastwood sells as their brand...but several dollars cheaper. Just used this for the first time a few days ago and I am very impressed.
Good to know 👍I'm all about cheaper as long as the quality is still there 👍 Thanks for sharing your experience with this paint .
There are many factors in getting a good result. One plan I discovered that successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the most incredible info that I have ever seen. Check out this interesting website.
@David Guyton
so how long it lasted? been 2 years
@@UrDaddy4Real everything has held up perfectly even to this day
Got a link to it?
Let me just say thank you from the bottom of my heart... I have never painted a car in my life and I'm disabled and I painted about 75% of my car using your Technique and she came out beautifully... I cried for about an hour... there is some orange peel but honestly I think that's unavoidable with spray paint... I'm going to wait about a month and then take her to a detailer for a good buff polish and wax... I do have one question something fell from the garage roof and there is a repair area of about the size of a quarter in two spots near the rear of the car how do I repair that I have a half a can of spray Max clear left which has to be used before the end of tomorrow
Sand the spots down to the primer. If metal go all the way. Finish with 400 grit sand paper. Take 4 pieces of paper and fold them. Place them around the outskirts . They will feather the paint.
@@sandrastembridge4226 That's good advice. Although I think this guy's Max Clear has long expired. Either way, good for others to see.
Understood- time is of essence- step 1: grab your heat gun and get those spots not only good and dry but also nice and warm for new repair:) Step 2: grab your dremmel tool and start dremmelling those areas out, carefully feathering into the fine finish. Step 3: fill with filler if necessary or just build up the paint until it sits higher than the rest of the panel. Step 4: sand using 1k-2k grit until it planes again. Step 5: clear coat that mamba jamba 1-3 coats, then using the same sand paper take it back down to smooth. Use heat gun to speed process and dry times. 6. use buffing/cutting compound- go yo town! 7. Use polish if necessary - you got this!☝
Thank you , I just finished painting my vintage Harley that I’m restoring,, rattle can base and finish with 2k spray max ,,, wow what a result,,, I’m never paying a professional again
I have seen a few of your paint jobs among others. After this video and seeing your progress as a painter and videographer improve, I've subscribed. Rustoleum products always seem like the bang bang for the buck, not cheap crap and not very high end. It's great that I can beat up my jeep then touch up and buff it out. Keep the videos coming!
stephen hunter Thank you I appreciate it!
Painting tip--turn the gun 90 and hit the edges first then major surfaces with 50 % overlap with the clear. Looks great!!
you did a better paint job then the factory did on my 2019 Silverado. My entire truck is straight up orange peel.
Wow that is ridiculous especially considering how much those trucks are. I haven't seen any of the new trucks up close but I wouldn't have guessed they have bad paint
...I used a good brand of OEM color paint, plus 2K clear coat in "clear glamour" on my 2002 Toyota Camry. I kept getting too many dry spots and no blending of the 2K stuff. Figured it was my technique, the ambient temperature, something else but didn't think it might be the clear coat.
I tried using the 2-cans-at-once technique that another fellow has a video about, exact title "How to clear coat better with spray cans". And I did notice better results right away; the two-can method isn't as cheap but it works better - but still, too many dry spots and/or the clear coat was not blending right for a consistent shine!
Finally I tried a different brand and bought "ERA Paints 2K High Gloss Automotive Clear Coat" from amazon. And again used the 2-can method. And I noticed a dramatic improvement: it blended just about perfectly, no dry spots!! Finally achieved a smooth consistent finish, that looks how a clear coat is supposed to. By far the best clear coat I tried (of 4 different brands). Only going to use the Era paints clear coat from now on (and no I have no financial stake in this company - I just am passing on what I learned so you don't have the same frustrating mistakes I made!)
Can you post a good link to explain or show video of how this two can method works? And where to get era clear with hardener? Thanks
I love a painter who protects themselves. Thank you for sharing your steps!
I’m glad I found a video where somebody actually has good spray technique
Please show the wet sand and buff on this! 👍👍
chucky luvs kalae I’ve wet sanded and buffed 2k before using meguiars ultimate compound and it looks great. Mirror finish and shine. 👌
chucky luvs kalae .
A de-nib and spot polish is all that should be required.
anybody that needs to sand and buff there finish doesnt know How refinishing works.
Problem with wetsanding is that you take great risk leaving deep scratch marks and you'll have to wetsand again and again to remove the scratches it's very risky and painful and time consuming job.
@@rockefelleragent1357 i think the deep scratches would happen if its not done properly. when done properly deep scratches arent left. the real problem with wet sanding spray bomb clears is the spray bombs have to be thinned down considerably to get them to spray at the low pressure. that leads to thin mils per coat. that can lead to sanding through the clear real easy.
@@gingerbread2875 or is doing high end work.
So I assume this "Spray Max" 2K clear is a urethane based product? I was wondering how well this would bond/stick (LONG TERM) to "Rustoleum" which is oil based? I don't believe they are chemically compatible products; i.e they don't chemically bond but they apparently "adhesively" bond like tape. Especially since you only gave the oil based paint only 10 minutes flash time before applying the clear. In my experience with oil paint; it takes weeks or months for it to fully dry (depending on temperature). urethane clear actually chemically bonds (vs "sticks") to urethane based paint so the clear stays on for years. So your video was made ~ 4 years ago; How is the clear holding up? Any dis-bonding of the clear observed? Thanks!
so impressed that you share tips when you experience a problem like the glove, you could have easily said nothing those small things make a difference plus you actually do learn from your mistakes as it shows when your passing on to others to help others
I’ve searched and searched for the best rattle can paint jobs and idk how I haven’t come across your channel. Love all your videos thank you 🙏🏼
Did you know, you can now have special colors mixed and have it put into spray cannister, the shop where I have my paints mixed has a new mashines that does that. So you can match your cars paint exactly and have it put in cannisters. 2k or Basecoat.
Ive done this very thing. Send them the color code and they send it to you in a can. I used this when I painted interior parts of my car and fiberglass enclosures.
where is your shop?
Napa has been doing this for years
All major paints hops will probably be able to do it now.
I just watched this after being depressed by the Eastwood "Four Steps to Paint Your Car" (if you have a week and a thousand sheets of sandpaper). Your solution looks much quicker and with a compound polish, plenty shiny!
I've seen several similar videos and this is by far the best one!
Wish you'd spent an additional 90sec or so briefly showing the wet sanding with the different grits but other than that....fantastic job! I'm gonna save this to my liked videos and be using it as a reference whenever I get around to painting my vehicle. A++
Because it isn't that easy to get hold of a 2K paint can I've been fighting with making a 1k clearcoat get up to the standards of the rest of my paint finish. Watching this video alone has convinced me to take the effort to find a distributor willing to get the 2k in for me so I can get the finish that I need.
Did this exact thing, with the exact same color on one of my guitars about 3 years ago & while it came out really nice the clear coat didn't last. It started pealing off about a year ago.
This is what happens when you spray a 2k product over a 1k product. It's like putting glass on top of jello. Eventually the glass with shift. 1k products can reflow with heat or solvents. 2k never reflows. Might look nice for a bit but will not last. There was a comment in here I read about getting products mixed for color from your automotive paint store, That are 2k aswell. This is the way to go if you want it to last and still be a cheap ratlecan job. You can make it look good with ratlecans and have it last. It just has to be done properly. Check your tech sheets. Tds(technical data sheets) on your products. They tell you everything you need to know about the product. If you are unsure, call a representative of the company.
DJ Daigle, how long did you wait before applying the 2k?
I'm seeing more and more rattle can paint jobs that actually come out nice looking. This one looks great
Thank you!
People has got to.....cause of ridiculous prices at the body shop's.....they would want a month of salary to paint that fender.....😦👀
I use this 2k clear on many model car projects. I also at times use Kraylon or Rustoleum paint like you have done here. I haven't had any issues. When I want a high gloss finish I use it. Only situation I have is I need to clear two or three models since the shelf life isn't very long. It doesn't seem to take very long to gas out like some clears do. The sanding an buffing is easy.
I paint Jets and prep is the key step in either a good or great paint job. You prep for 13 days and paint 1 day. Better make sure everything is Flawless!!
I used Dupli-color clear coat for wheels on a fender once because the can said that it dried extra hard and I guess they are right. I had that car for years and it looked glossy like this 2k clear and it never faded. I would like to try this clear coat out on some projects I have planned for my car.
Great job! Quick tip for everyone reading this: Use the tack cloth between coats, especially on larger surfaces.
Keep up the great work!!! This channel should boom in no time.
So, let it completely dry between coats?
yep. dry to the touch, then tack cloth (to remove any loose debris kicked up on the panel while its drying), then the next coat
@@claytonhaske no more than like 30mins between coats though.
i would rather look for closed doors and a watered floor.....tackcloth is nice but wouldnt do it when using cans...its better to shoot wetcoats to compensate for lack of pressure from cans.
i know what you mean...but here we have to apply paint a little differend to be able to achive a smooth endproduct.
plus when tacking you want also air following the rub....wich in this case is not giving.
but you are right...normally you tack it to get the dust off.
Don't tack the clear coat though, unless it has some kind of instant hardener in it (I highly doubt with a 48hr pot life in the can) you'll just ruin your 1st coat of clear. Which happens to be the most important coat
Great video! I've been researching this topic relentlessly. Was regretting my choice in painting my restored 53' Farmall tractor with rust oleum farm and implement paint. It has turned out nice so far but I became very concerned about the longevity and durability. Im at the point where its time to paint the sheet metal and I really want a quality finish. Ive used hardener in the paint with good results.Flashes fast. However it does take a long time for the rust oleum to fully cure in the south GA humidity. Was surprised to see you spray the clear so soon after the paint. As all the research I've done points toward letting the paint fully cure. especially rust oleum. Thanks for the video! Really boosted my confidence in this painting process!
When I paint with spray cans I always lightly wet sand the primer, basecost, and I do a flow coat on the clear coat, and it's very smoothe as glass. Barley no imperfections if any at all.
Anthony jezek what is a flow coat
No Budget Racing
Wet sand the clear coat, then apply another coat. Of clear. Gives great depth, and shine.
Happy to know that it's compatible with 2X and Advanced formula. Looks great, thanks!
The Spraymax 2K Clear is great stuff. I've used it on alot of low budget paintjobs and it allways turns out great. And since its fuelproof as soon as it has cured you can also use it for tanks on bikes.
Good into to know. I'm painting my Stryker soon and was wondering if it would react badly to gas.
Do you know where I can find some spraymax 2k clear around town or is it only online?
@@angelalmanza1725 its prolly too late but I buy it at NAPA.
An old painter's trick with catalyzed paints is to put them in the refrigerator to extend the potlife. If you have clear left go ahead and stick it in the fridge, you may get a extra couple of days before it hardens, maybe even a week.
Love the video but is it just me or is there some secret DIY RUclips video secret society where they all use the same song 😂 lol
There are copyright free libraries of free to use music that you tubers use so that they don’t get copyright strikes.
Sounds like chipmunks.
youtube music library
Sounds like 2014 modern folk music instrumentals
That "music" makes me think of lawrence welk and the bubble makers on meth.
What is it compatible with (Acrylic, Enamel or Urethane) ?
Does it get stronger if you bake it or use hot air for example 80..100 °C (176 .. 212 °Fahrenheit) ?
Never heard of 2K clear. Very interesting how it has a hardener in it .I have some gym equipment I’d like to paint , and also have a durable surface . This looks like it may be the answer .
Nice work btw
Wow looks like 2k clear is the way to go! I used rustoleum laquer clear from autozone, I havent sanded it and buffed it yet to see how it looks but if you have to crack the can and mix the paint then 2k is already better quality. The rustoleum clear does also have a wide spray tip as well, Im gonna save that tip and use it on other cans. Great video as usual!
Can you still add 2k clear coat if the paint is already dry and weat sanded?
What if I wanted a flat white paint job wouldn’t the clear coat make it shine or how does a person do that
From everything I've read, you shouldn't spray urethane based clear coat (i.e. the Spraymax 2K) over non-urethane based paint (i.e. Rustoleum 2X). So what's the deal, does this only look good for a little bit before the clear coat starts to fall off?
I have heard the same thing. Though I know if you let the non urethane paint gas off and cure... Then wet sand and clear with 2k everything works out fine. Most canned paint cures through evaporation... 2k cures because it's a 2 part catalyst clear. I don't understand how this 2k doesn't cause issues with the Rust-Oleum which clearly needs to gas off and cure under the... Essentially plastic clear coat.
Great video man without a lot of talking, you stayed on point and made it easy to follow. You've giving me more confidence that I paint my own car, keep up the good work!
I'm glad you put this video out. I actually plan to paint a whole care like this and wasn't sure if the 2x paint was compatible with the 2k clear.
UnWrecked liar
@@Josemartinez-hb5fm what about this am I lieing about? Go to my channel and see the Mitsubishi eclipse I'm working on. Already told everybody I was doing it.
UnWrecked I recommend hitting the paint while it’s tacky with the clear so it don’t wrinkle the paint job that’s how I do it at least! Best of luck
@@JamesDguy I plan to do it only 1-2 panels at a time
Just did the 2k clear over flat white rustoleum 2 hours ago and it came out great.
Can you post a video on differences between lacquer, acrylic, enamel, urethane.....
Hoang Nguyen I will try to squeeze that in!
I vouch for Rust.
such good paint.
I use to hit the city walls with rust in my younger days great paint
Seems strange that a primer and base coat that do not have a hardener can be chemically bonded to a clear with a hardener. Spraying wet (after flashing) on wet is chem bonded vs. letting dry, scuffing, and then coating which is mechanical bonding. But spraying wet, the primer and color are expected to outgas the solvents at a rate that facilitates the bond, but with a hardened clear, it would seem it would seal the layers and prevent proper outgassing of the undercoats. But as this video shows, and my many examples of doing this exact thing myself, it does work, and the Spraymax makes for a much more durable finish than going with Rustoleum clear. Nice video, thanks.
How has your paint held so far? Do you have any paint that is over a year old that still looks good. I really want to do this and wonder how it holds up?
This stuff works so good! Best stuff I have ever used!
Very informative video. Thank you for sharing this. I have now used this on several refurbished and repainted machines and love how this stuff makes the color pop, and keeps dirt from sticking.
Glad you posted this to let people see what can be done with a rattle can.you do nice work very helpful.✌✌!!
Dude awesome thanks for the tips and videos. Question you say the paint and primer dries in 15 or 20 mins. mine doesn't is it i don't shake the can long enough? I live in Tx. it gets really hot down here. if i paint with in 15 or 20 mins my paint bubbles up or cracks. any tips brother thanks again
light coats, yours might to thick at one go, causing the paint problems
I love watching rustoleum paint videos.
Hi
I’m painting my fiat 500 myself with this seaside gloss
any advice when spraying the cans ?
holy fucking shit, I've been searching the web for half a year to find this answer. Some people say never put 2k clear on cheap lacquer paint, other people say its ok if you let the paint dry for two days. but after looking at your video it is clear. thank you so much for uploading!
Yea i tend to not listen to people/internet unless i see proof. Thats why i made this video! :D
James D guy so it's holding up? the paint didn't shrivel like everyone says? cause I'm about to clear my paint now
Awesome! Because of you I am going to paint my own truck now!
Ben Beam liar
Thumbnail says "not click bait"..
Actually isn't click bait..
👍👍 To you !!
My wife and I was looking at the same color for our mustang, but didn't know what it would look like when done. Thanks for your hard work
I was thinking the same color for my 89 foxbody notchback .
Found your videos by chance and now I want to paint my 96 tracker
I use that 2K. I restore old motorcycles.It's all I use. One tip. If you wet sand your color-coat before clearing there will be zero need to color sand orange peel....
Great product. I paint goalie masks and use rustoleum primer. Followed by art work/air brushing then spray max 2k. Wet shine and durable. No difference from when I use to get an auto body shop to clear. I’ve taken a lot of shots to the mask, no paint chips
GoPro Goalie Uzi
Big fan Uzi. Question. If you use rusto as primer which is oil based what type of paint are you brushing with? Oil or water based? Want to find out about compatibility. Also how long do you wait between for gases to cook off? Did a hextall tribute mask with spray cans and came out well but a couple months later I have cracks in what I hope is just the clear. Didn't sand yet to re clear and find out
GoalieDad 1974 as far as I’m aware rustoleum primer I use is not oil based. I sand mask with 400 grit, clean it then spray white primer. Few coats. I let it dry and cure for 48hrs. Then I airbrush using createx wicked. Water based. Lots of pro use it too. Then I let dry for 24hrs and then 3 coats of 2k. No issues ever..chk out my mask painting on my channel
GoalieDad 1974 your right it is oil based! ? I trust it and use it lol!!
GoPro Goalie Uzi thanks for the info.
I have always wondered. It seems that a painter would want primer and paint color to stick with hardener. Then the clear over the top can’t blame what is under it for not sticking to the body panel. But, the logic is that the hardener should be in the clear to protect from sun and the clear what holds the paint down and prevents peeling? Thanks for your videos. They are helpful.
Great video, straightforward without the fluff ! I learned a lot, thanks. Can you show us the color sanding and polishing ?
tutchngoes I won’t be color sanding since clear is already on it. But I will be doing a wet sanding of the clear and buffing video
The whole way through I'm thinking, "This guy is not afraid of spraying thick coats"! But the results speak for themselves. Thumbs up!
best, most encouraging video of this topic yet. thank you
I used the 2K clear on a bike frame that I ended up leaving outside in the sun, rain and wind for 2 years. I cleaned it up with some Simple Green and it still looked as good as the day I painted it. But yeah, the stuff isn't cheep so plan ahead and clear coat multiple items to use it all up in the 24hr window. Nice tip about the glove by the way.
*beats about to drop hard
“SO I LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES”
Is the 2 part clear compatible with the Rust-Oleum turbo spray paint cans?
Looks great man! I'd love to see the finish after wet sanding and buffing that if possible, curious as to how the clear looks when flattened out
Could not be more astonished! This is the project I planned for the fall. Hope my results come close to yours!
that 2k is dam good shit i used it a while back repainting motorcycle fairings i actually went and had some paint mixed up color matched and put in rattle cans from a local paint shop it turned out amazing
Part 2 sand and buff can’t wait to see !!! Great looking paint job!!!!!!
Great job and awesome video but I couldn't help but laugh when you said to make sure to keep your finger nice and tight up in there and concentrate on the tip!!
Soooooo, after I sandpaper, I don't need primer with this spray *2X Ultra Cover Paint + Primer* ? Since its Paint and Primer ?
I would imagine you'd need primer to fill in any scratches
Content Updating
1 or 2. Nothing major.
The can says *Paint + Primer*
@@sugadew Primer could mean that it will stick to whatever surface you're spraying. If there are any imperfections, I would think you'd need something else.
@@thingsdemystified the spray is a *primer spray paint* . So I would need more primer?
Only a few minor scuffs. Nothing really major. No Bondo or fiberglass. Just a few superficial scrapes
Im lucky i haven't started my project , that my good sir looks amazing
Did this on my integra but with white paint came out fabulous. I did 3 coats of clear. And while driving under normal conditions I got a rock chip on the fender I painted took the whole clear coat off where it hit, barely noticeable but it's there lol.
Oh wow really?! I haven't had that happen yet to my wife's car and we drive down a dirt alley everyday and in some horrible conditions.
You want to preferably wait longer than 24 hours before wet sanding and buffing that 2K clear from the spray can, best to wait at least 3 days, 7 is optimal.
Billy Masoner u the can must have a fair amount of hardener or something because the can says wait 24hour before wet sanding but it’s always preferred to wait longer for me at least
James D guy yes that’s what I was saying, at least 24 hours, but it’s been my experience that the clear has still been too soft at that point and it’s better to wait a few days more.
Billy Masoner I’ve had that experience but only after attempting to apply additional coats on top of wet coats and it seemed lengthened the flash time which made the clear coat seem soft after the 24hr mark. Always let it flash first before applying another coat, especially after you mess up. Let a mistake be a mistake and correct it by a wet sand once it has flashed instead of getting too antsy. That’s a big time noob mistake I made. Also Outdoor temp and airflow over the basecoat/primer/clear coat always make the difference in the finished product besides prepping.
It looks really good. I guess the only downside if you wanted to do a whole car would be the cost per can of the clear would push you up to the cost of a basic Maaco, or similar discount auto paint shop, basic paint service cost. However, if you had a compressor and a gun, you could just get yourself a gallon of acrylic clear for, maybe $40-60 and you come out way ahead, even if you count the cost of the compressor, filter, hose, and gun, which you would then have for future projects.
I have all the stuff to do gun jobs. Im showing what you can do if you DONT have all that stuff and if you are on a budget then $20 can + $5 can of paint to do a fender. You spend $25 you can do 2 fenders with 1 can of clear and 1 can of color. So spend $25 every time you can afford it to get decent results. That's the point of these videos and not everyone has a shop/Garage or a place for a compressor/lines/Gun so on. I have all that stuff already. Watch my newer videos where i paint with raptor liner.
Man thank u!! U do an awesome job and you showing us how not to break the bank on doing a great paint job. 💯💯💯
Only thing is by using this premix cannister, once you've mixed it you have to finish it or throw away the remainder paint left in the cannister. So have enough work prepared to finish cannister. But it looks good.. I would have been very weary to put 2 k over normal Duco, as 2k or basecoat do not work on top of old car paint like an old Escort mark2, it shrivels the ols paint, You have to put at least 2 extremely dry coats of MS Primer.
Looks AMAZING!!! And I am looking forward to more videos like this one! GREAT JOB!!!👍👍
Looks amazing. Just fyi though man you might want to change your respirator cartridges to the 3m P100 for organic vapors. 2k clear has isocyanates that are odorless and very dangerous. Normal respirators don't protect against that.
This spray paint has its place, but I think you’d spend more trying to paint an entire car with it.
Find a local independent body shop and ask if you can rent their booth for a day (preferably on the weekend so you don’t disrupt their business). If that doesn’t work, it is possible to build your own temporary paint booth with plastic, box fans, cheap filters, and 2x4’s. Get some friends to help, and you all can paint your cars yourself.
Find a decent sized air compressor (if you can’t rent a booth). You can paint a car with a15-30 gal compressor (the higher cfm @ 40 psi the better). You can probably rent one for a weekend, or check craigslist and/or Facebook marketplace for a good deal (once again, find some friends to split the cost with. See the theme here?) The trick is to only paint a section of the car at one time (front cap, roof and doors, trunk and quarters). This works best with solid colors, not as good with metallics, not good at all with candies. If you have a bigger compressor (12 cfm/60-80 gal), then shoot the whole car at once.
Get a Harbor Freight paint gun kit ($40, not the $10 purple gun). Use it a few times and throw it away when it starts spraying funny.
Price some Nason base and clear from your paint supply store. If you don’t have access to that, shop online for something like Urekem. Check TCP Global as well. You will be surprised at how affordable decent paint is. If your painting a solid color, consider single stage urethane. If you screw it up bad enough, you can always hit it with some 600 grit and clear it.
So let’s total this up, for an average sized car.
Conventional method:
Booth rental-$200-$400
Temp booth-$300 max
Air compressor-$100 or less
Paint-$300 for base clear kit (Urekem)
Misc supplies-$200 (primer, tape, Harbor Freight spray gun)
Doing it the right way=$900 (does not account for friends chipping in)
Spray can method:
No booth needed (recommended, but not required)
Spray can 2k primer-$200
Cheap laquer primer-$75
Spray can 2k base-$200
Cheap acrylic or laquer spray paint-$75
Spray can 2k clear-$200
Misc supplies-$75
Total-$425 to $675
Compare the finishes of both methods. The costs can fluctuate with both methods, but the conventional method will be cheaper in the long run and have a way more durable and nicer result. Mixing laquer/acrylic paints with urethane top coats will not hold up as long as true 2k base/clear.
And, you and your friends will gain valuable skills and experience doing it the right way!
I've got some black color motorcycle odds and ends that need repainting or spot painting. This is a great video for the non-pro painter to get good results using spray cans. Thanks much!
Bloody awesome work mate, thanks heaps for all the great tips. Gotta spray my car later on and always like to get the goods from peeps that know what the hell they are doing. Cheers bro.
Hi, I'm a 62-year-old disabled guy that loves hi 2001 E430 and while learning to buff and paint correct, I burnt through the clear coat. Well, I began painting my errors with spray cans from a touch-up company but in some places where I applied the spray paint, there is an accumulation of spray paint where a finish stroking and do the return stroke and its leaving marks. Is that normal or did I screw up? I have not laid down the clear coat yet, HELP!!!!
OLD MAN W/A CAIN I’m not 100% sure I know what you mean but I assume you mean it’s leaving stripes.
@@JamesDguy When i return with the paint stroke, you know going back and forth, it leaves a heavier blob of paint there where i iniciate the return stroke. Kind of like stripes.
Good job keep em coming. 👍🏻 would like to see the wet sand and buff.. to see the orange peel come out and to fix the little drip there.
painted my rims the same way. rustoleum and 2k clear.
And back then i never knew you can’t mix paint brands.
but nowadays i use the rustoleum 2000 degree clear coat cause it’s cheaper
Thank u for putting these videos out...they r so amazing...your lime green car..is so koool...the fender looks like a $1500.00 paint job...can't tell the difference...amazing
?? Won’t there be long term issues with the 2X Rust-Oleum paint that has now been sealed by the 2K clear. It has always been my understanding that normal spray can paint never fully cures and will now stay softer, especially when it’s been sealed. So eventually the Rust-Oleum under the clear will shrink, discolor and try to escape the bond and start lifting and begin to crack or flake the clear coat? And how much bond does the hard cured clear coat have to the softer un cured Rust-Oleum base coat? It’s like a m&m soft inside and a hard candy coating on the outside.
Thats a myth. Spray can paint does eventually harden up it takes a super long time though. It had been on this entire time and never had a issue.
Moore Motorsports James Dguy it does take a long time and when it does it starts to turn into a powder substance when all the oil in the spray paint finally dissipates from the sun. Under the 2K primer is a spray paint that can’t cure properly so it will be very soft and can be subject to separation, wrinkles and color issues. Putting the hard cured 2K clear over it is sealing it up just like putting the spray paint back in the can without any air to help it cure it never will. I’m not denying the fact that it looks great, but there could be issues down the rd, hopefully later than sooner. Have you tried letting the spray paint dry for 24 hours then scuff and then put the 2K clear over it?
Wear a real respirator like the 3M unit he has. Two part paint gets in your lungs and hardens. No fixing it. Ever.
John Smith just use a 1k clear
Is it (the 2K stuff) alright to use on previously sprayed (fully cured) Rustoleum? My truck's already painted, but I blew off the clear coat, was planning on doing a scuff & touch-up this spring when the weather permits, and THEN doing the clear.
I've had some really bad results shooting clear over cured rustoleum on guitar bodies..it lifts paint like stripper..hate to do that to a whole full size truck.
:-)
Thanks in advance..cool video.
Not sure, maybe try to find a small patch and test it and see what happens