Painting a Mini with Only 5 Colors?
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
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Using a limited palette has always been an interesting idea to me. Using normal artist-grade acrylic paints is also another interesting thing. so I mashed them together in a video!
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The problem you are having is that your "tube paints" are heavy body. They often use a type of acrylic gel which gives you that glossy look especially when thinned down by other mediums. heavy body acrylics are mainly for building up and adding texture to flat painting surfaces. Soft body acrylics are what we use as miniature painters. They have a decent flow and often cover super well. They use a liquid medium to achieve this.
That's incredibly informative. Thank you! Is there something else I should be using to thin the heavy body paints?
Also, I often paint using 8 colors instead of five. It is quite difficult if not impossible to find a true primary. So instead, go for colors which are known to be just next to those primaries. For example, ultramarine blue is more on the purple side, while pthalo blue/green is on the green side of things. You will still often get dark purple when mixing red/blue. You can adjust the issue by using white to undercoat, with glazes of purple to make it pop out more, or by simply adding white to the mix (though it will desaturate it a bit).
Flow Improver mixed with water will thin the paint without losing the pigment load. Also you could try matte medium to bring down the gloss level while thinning the paint. I always varnish with a matte varnish at the end (gloss on the bits you want shiny) to protect the paint. There are a ton of additives you can get for paint so it's worth researching.
William Rawlins Didn’t know that; greatly appreciate the new info!
I made the mistake of wanting more colors and buying a relatively middle grade acrylic set from Hobby Lobby and mixing it with Liquitex matte medium and it turned out horrible. The consistency was like what he's having in the video and some of the colors just get really light. I didn't have a flow improver but it doesn't matter now anyway, I can see where the money goes with Vallejo and some of the other miniature paint brands. Will flow improver actually save cheap acrylics or are these just going to be better left to my wife for her fall projects? ;)
by mixing colors its important to mix cool colors with cool ones and warm colors with warms. so if you want to get a really good green you have to mix a warm green with a warm yellow otherwise you get the muddy color. same goes for the violett
Came here to post this. For a purple, you'd want to be mixing crimson rather than a vermilion. Vermilion is far too close to orange, which is why you're getting something so close to brown - ultramarine and vermilion are almost on opposite sides of the colour wheel.
Thank you! I wanted to jokingly scream that at him lol. But I see I was super late
Dope.
I don't know if it's your banter or laid back style but I find I can stomach the 20+ minute investment of you painting and I usually can't on other channels. Keep making the vids and we'll probably keep watching. Kudos too man; the miniature came out sick.
The tone of the video is instantly set....."I hate to say I told you so, but...." : D. I dig the non scripted style though. Feels laid back and friendly. Keep em coming!
From what I've found through experience, red as a whole is a bad choice to mix with blue to create purple. Red is the combination of magenta and yellow mixed. The yellow is what desaturates, or muddies, the purple, making it closer to brown. If you're wanting extremely vibrant colours use the process primaries; cyan, magenta and yellow.You'd love the results you'd get, particularly green. Also, the best brand for those would be Daler & Rowney System 3. Vallejo *might* sell all the primaries in their model colour range. I know that they do magenta in that range though.
Also, I believe the coverage issue is down to how thick the medium is in artist's acrylics. Lahmian medium would help with that. You can easily make it too, and Lukes APS has the recipe for it. :-)
I think this is a very fair format. It's closer from what you do in your streams, as it's more natural and you're more yourself, but I definitely think your more constructed videos that are prepared and scripted and all are more appropriate for most of your tutorial content and all that kind of stuff
This fits great for that kind of review videos as it definitely feels more appropriate: testing new stuff should probably not be scripted anyway
I agree with all that. And I love the "beginner hobbyist" type reviews. There's a lot of us who don't sink hundreds into this and helps us know just how thin we can stretch the budget. Having said that, I'm tired of mixing 5 good paints and tired of messing with cheap paints, so I'm finally breaking down and buying a huge miniature paint set.
I started the hobby again after a ten year break and I challenged myself to only use the 10 basic paints from army painter and mix them along with actually using a wet palette. Painting is so much more fun and interesting. The video format is cool by the way
I paint miniatures for over 5 years, and except for the silver. I use only art acrillic paints because i live in a hard country, those art paint are like mounting wild horses, needs practice and a lot of feeling.
I do agree with a lot of the comments about this video. The issue was the type of paint you are use to using versus what this paint is designed for. Tube paints have their place... The heart of video “Using 5 paints to paint a model” is a great idea and I hope inspires more people to pick up a brush and give it a go.
> not sure whether to be angry because you've totally dissed poor lil arteza
> or have great appreciation for your pure honestly
As to your issue with green and purple. It’s due to your yellow and blue paint. Ultramarine blue is more on the green side of blue and mid yellow is more of a yellow orange. If you are going to try to paint this way. You want paints closer to the primary colours (a lot of brands will actually list them as primary blue, primary yellow, and primary red) mars black also has a bunch of blue in it. Which could effect how you darken a colour.
Alternatively, you can use a 6-colour primary where you have both warm and cool tones of each primary.
So for instance, using just Scale75, I'd probably go with Aldebaran Red, Antares Red, Mediterranean Blue, Tesla Blue, Sol Yellow and Sahara Yellow.
also to note that the "yellow, blue, red" as primaries is kinda false. It favours warm tone colours. True primary colours are yellow, cyan, and magenta(yes like your printer inks) but that's deeper colour theory, and that not really how they make craft paint.
I read a good book in art school called "Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green". The premise was basically that there are no paints in "pure" primary colors, so you use hues leaning to the color you want to mix. Scott would have got a better green using something like lemon yellow, which leans to the green side.
I very much so enjoyed the format of this video. I like that when you reached a problem there'd be a break where you then talked about how you were going to further proceed. This gave me a way to remember the problems so that I could learn from your observations as they happened and not just a list at the end. Thanks
I'm just getting into painting minis, and I just got an airbrush to see which method of painting is best for me. So far in this video I've been using cheap paint and brushes like you just used. Sometimes it works and sometimes it's questionable. I enjoy your videos, and your honest feedback in this video was very helpful. Thank you!
Gotta say I really enjoyed the video format. Having painted with artist oils and acrylics for years before painting minis, that they are very different tools. To get the same coverage with artist acrylics that you’d get with a model paint, you almost always wind up losing details, and this is in part due to the coarseness of the pigment in the acrylic medium. Very fine pigment in a thin acrylic will give you a very vibrant color in a very thin coat, and is a big reason why the artist acrylics desaturate so quickly when thinned out, as they tend to be quite coarse. Some artists will paint with palette knives on canvas, especially with oils, and using such a heavy technique makes the coarseness of the pigment a strength rather than a weakness.
i enjoyed the style Scot, i liked how you were very rough and open with your pre-use thoughts
then confirmed said thoughts, then went that extra mile and pretty much did a 180 on them after some experimentation
a very honesty review in both the product and the approach to getting a good result
im sure this will help people who have been using or considering using tube/canvas paints
I like this style of painting video, it’s very experimental and not a not of people are pushing the boundaries and trying to explore many things outside of the regular miniature painting style. Well done.
I like what you did here. It's nice to learn more about that different world of paints, so alien to us. I also love watching you learning from mistakes and how you admitted to misjudging quality of this company. Kudos for giving them chance by comparing to more expensive rivals! That struck me that in fact you had spent your money to compare their free sample.
You seem to be honest in this review and I seriously admire it.
It's the Napoleon Dynamite of mini painting! Seriously dude, love the channel, love what you're doing, I'm learning a lot even though I started painting minis like, 40 years ago? (First started painting 90mm Rose Napoleonic miniatures in OILS) Yeah I'm like, 60. Got back to painting just recently after maybe 8 years away; new paints new techniques and some serious new minis means it's a bit like being a newbie again. Thanks for all you're doing to impart your knowledge. Cheers, from Australia.
I realize that I'm massively late and you probably know this by now but what you were told in elementary school was wrong: blue and red don't make purple unless you're operating in RGB colours space - emitting light, that is, so monitors and such. When you're reflecting light, you're operating in the CMY colour space which is what you do when you paint. There blue is a mix of cyan and magenta and red is a mix of yellow and magenta so mixing blue and red means mixing all three primary colours resulting in brown. Purple you get by mixing one part cyan to two parts magenta.
But awesome vids - love your stuff! Keep up the great work!
I really liked seeing your process, not just the final result. Some times when trying a new technique I will look up a guide and be lost simple because I don't know the reasoning and path that got the person there. I also really liked that your doing something quite different and showing other ways. Failure in an experiment leads to discovering in a craft.
It's a testament to your comfort with the camera that after I finished, I did not find it much different than your scripted vids. Kudos!
I’m your 81,600 subscriber, and I can see why you have so many! Because YUR RICH lol no, you have good narration, and tell shit like it is. Nearly dissing the free gear you got is about as legit as you get. I personally would be very happy with that paint set, and would have a blast using such a wide variety for its price.
I like the video style. It had an exploitive feel and showed how you think and judge. It felt more raw but played in to the learning process.
I really liked the "explorative" nature of this video. Don't really care if it's scripted or not. Was a lof fun to watch.
The desaturation of the pigments when mixed is why impressionists don't like to mix colours or blend which is why their paintings can be so vivid
As to the tone of this video, I like it a lot. I’ve only just discovered your channel, and this is my favorite video of yours because of the tone. Many of your videos are very energetic, which is great for entertainment. However, I watch hobby videos primarily for information and instruction. The cutaways you use in many of your videos can compete with that goal.
I am very happy to have found your channel and I very much look forward to watching more. Thank you for providing a valuable service to our community. It is much appreciated.
I don't know if you have figure this part out yet, but as others have mentioned and you were coming to the conclusion of mixing with more than 5 colors, when you mix Pigments (not necessarly the color you're using but the pigments used to make it) across the color wheel, they will desaturate (in printing we refer to this a the color getting dirty). Mixing pigments that are are as close together on the wheel, will give you cleaner colors. So if you want a blue to go greener, obviously start with a green shade blue, the then mix with a true green pigment or a blue shade of yellow. Once you introduce a pigment beyond the primary, it will desaturate quickly. Hope this makes sense and helps.
I like this format. Usually when I watch your other videos I just scroll the video to the part I want to watch but for some reason, I sit through this one and watched it entirely. Dunno if it's the format or the subject, but I definitely enjoyed it!
I really liked the raw unscripted style! I think it allowed for you to really get your thoughts out not only about the product but minis in general. Can't wait for the next video!
Nice to see your thoughts and process during the painting. It was especially good seeing you work out some of the questions and struggles with a new medium. Tube paints act very differently from liquid acrylics. Paints specifically made for miniatures tend to be thicker than most liquid acrylics with more pigment so they can be thinned and still provide good coverage on a model. Other acrylics are designed to work on canvas or board, where you use a lot more paint to build saturation. They all react in different ways with water, thinners, and media. Using acrylic media has done better for me when I use artist acrylics. The paints don't break as quickly. I still have to do a few extra coats with them to get the best coverage.
Looking forward to more videos. Keep trying new materials on camera. It helps us to see where you struggle and what you learn along the way.
Scott, every material you prepare for us is top quality and full of soul. I liked this one as much as the scripted ones. Had a big laugh seeing how much you hated that nmm deathwatch raven guard marine ;D Cheers dude, great work as always!
I enjoy your scripted material but this off the cuff method was very enjoyable. I like the “realness” of it. Particularly as it applies to you working through the experimentation in “real time”. Thanks!!
Awesome video, loads of pointers in there that I would never have thought of, particularly brightening around the face and looking for what colours make up the base shade of the paints when mixing. For someone returning to painting minis after a 25 year break it gave me a lot to think about thank you.
This off the cuff style was still very entertaining and informative. Your channel was the one that helped me work up the confidence to actually paint my minis so thank you. I know what to do and now I can do it and get better from there.
very impressed by the off the cuff on the fly aproach as well as the cute puppies..
As someone already said, you want to mix warm colors with warm colors and cool colors with cool colors. But I'd also add that you can change up your primaries to widen your paint range.
The usually taught primaries are red, blue, and yellow. But the colors with the widest range are cyan, magenta, and yellow. You can use these to mix red and blue and then use them to mix vibrant purples and greens.
I used to use just red, yellow, blue, white, and brown really just to keep my cost down but then I added cyan and magenta and i learned didn't need anything else. I do traditional painting as well and I use the same palate plus black.
I think the best videos/channels for color theory are:
"How to match any color with oil paint" -draw mix paint
"These are the ONLY acrylic colors you need" - Chuck Black Art
Draw With Jazza is also a fun channel.
I enjoyed this, the raw comments vs. a script showed a bit more of your reactions and thought process than some of your scripted videos. Thanks for the great content, I'm learning a lot.
For my Red Corsairs,
-mephiston red as base on model and 32mm
-chaos black as armor panels, gloves, weapons, mixing for darkening and shadows for colors
-troll slayer orange edge high lights, buttons lights, plasma coils, eyes and lava base
-white scars white for brightening, lighting sources, eyes, edges.
-Khorne red for brightening up armor and mixing for brightening, highlighting and dry brush edges.
I love the basic colors. I will used blue and other colors for my next round on my models. I paint to play and later i improve on them.
I appreciated that you were very fair and honest in your review. You also gave it a second chance and found the positives in the paints and brushes rather than just shit on them.
I would love more videos like this, especially if companies are willing to test their mettle against your honest approach!
I enjoyed this format, but I also like the scripted videos, especially the 'Eavy Metal ones. I guess some subjects fit one format better than others. Your videos are some of the few I actually watch the whole way through. Keep up the good work!
I really like the video style, almost felt like a class or something. I have zero intention of using these sorts of paints but I still feel like I learned some valuable information from this vid. Your content never disappoints Scott!
The problem with the secondaries is that the classic R, B, Y primary color scheme doesn't exactly work for pigments and results in muddy colors when mixed. The primaries for light are R, G, B which make brighter secondaries Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow. Colored light is additive - adding RGB together makes white light. However, paints/pigments are subtractive so when mixing pigments you get a darker color (i.e., mix RBY and you'll get near black not white) so you need to start with brighter primaries. For pigments, the primaries are Cyan (a brighter blue), Magenta (a brighter red), and Yellow. Notice the primaries for pigments are the secondaries for light. With CMY colored paints you can make vibrant reds, oranges, greens, blues and purples just like a printer.
Could you put high res pics from the models you paint on videos in a Instagram account or something similar? It is nice for reference.
These tutorials with non-hobby products are great for people like me that live in countries that don't have access to hobby products. Keep the good work!
I like unscripted, it's fresh, and it tells a story, keeps you engaged, it's not just raw information. Raw information is good too, if it's top quality.
Anyways I'm learning things about painting (in canvas) and I can give you a clue about your mixing problems. First, primary colors are not yellow, red and blue, It's lemon yellow, magenta red, and cyan blue. This is important because all the other colors are manufactured with unexpected pigments, like your blue had a green shade that chashed with your red, and kept you from getting purple. But magenta or cyan can't be used by themselves (usually), and it's hard for brands to obtain the actual exact primary colors for perfect mixing. So many artists use what it's called a split primary pallet. They pick two shades of each primary, one on the warm side, one on the cool side. This way, to get a secondary, they use the version or each pair that it's closer to the desired color, to avoid any interference from the third primary being hidden in any of them, and muddying everyting. They also tend to choose very dark colors because it's very hard to darken a particular mix, black is going to change it, and if you use the complementary, then... you are muddying the color.
I have no art training, but I'm a nerd interested in the matter, and that's a very powerfull drive to learn :-D
I have to say that I enjoyed it. I really liked your break down of the different paints.
PAINT MORE MINIS! I liked this video style. It is really nice to see when things DON'T work. Sometimes it is easy to get overwhelmed with the very best painters showing their very best work because you do not realize the process...the things that did not work, the lessons learned. I enjoyed watching this because you relayed information of your learning process, and in turn I learned from you. It really opened my eyes up to the world of tube paints. I see a few professionals use oil paints, and some use this kind of tube paint. I think I will have to give it a try! Thanks!
Liquitex Flow Aid helps a bunch with the Liquitex heavy body paints. I use Liquitex Heavy Body Parchment when using a loaded brush technique with my Vallejo and P3 paints on my miniatures. The darker colors in the line become quite transparent and can be used for shadow glazing but I'm not completely adept with it.
Very cool video, and I think the final finished paint job came out quite decent. As someone who comes from an art background and used "non-miniature" paints for quite some time, I would recommend using something like Liquitex Matte Medium or Vallejo Acrylic Thinner as opposed to using Glaze Medium; while Glaze Medium does indeed have an acrylic binder, its more diluted to achieve a mostly transparent effect (i.e. a glaze) whereas something like Matte Medium or Acrylic Thinner is diluted very little, so it will still thin your paints but leave more of the opacity intact and allow you to add more water if desired because of the higher concentration of binder. The waxy, almost oil-like quality comes from the paints being heavy-bodied; they're actually designed to work similarly to what you would expect from an oil paint while allowing you to still use water and water based products to thin the paints and clean your brushes, so they do give you more time to blend layers into one another which can be very handy for shading and highlighting. As for miniature paints not behaving like this, I believe its to do with pigment density; miniature paints tend to be heavy on pigment to achieve that saturated, high contrast look, which means there's a higher concentration of solid particulates versus medium (this is why you can see the pigment if you dilute miniatures paints to the point where they become "chalky").
The format was definitely different and interesting, and when you're doing something like a product review I'd say it would work much better because you can give us your thoughts and observations on the product as your experiencing them, rather than trying to remember them later on when you do voice over; things that occur to you might otherwise be accidentally forgotten in post production, even if you're pausing to make notes while you're filming.
If that red you used really contained a lot of yellow to make it so orange, and then that orange is mixed with the blue, it naturally becomes grayer than the violet/purple you wish for. That's because in effect you don't mix a color circle red with a color circle blue to get a color circle violet, but you mix blue with its COMPLEMENTARY orange, which makes it gray/unsaturated. The same goes for red/green mixes and yellow/purple mixes and so on. The term you can research is COLOR BIAS. Do the research in oil colors to get a feel for it. The problem could be enhanced by the bad quality of those colors of course, but basically,you cannot have even a hint of a bias in one of your mixing colors that is complementary to the other mixing color. It will be more unsaturated than you wish and expect. Cheers, dude! Love your channel, it's ever-developing and fun to watch as you take giant steps towards becoming the painter you want to become...
Kenny from Next Level Painting always sings praises about doing a gloss varnish before washing. Something about breaking the surface tension makes the wash go exactly where you want it to. I wonder if that paint was glossy enough to give the same effect.
Yes, some of the GW plainters do the same, if you read the last White Dwarf, the guy who painted all the Admec does the same thing. Something that I want to try also!
Old technique used by scale modelers for years gloss varnish before weathering and washes and matt varnish after.
a limited palette gives your art coherency because it stops you from making clashing colors... if you want a robot with neon green and red and neon purple you cant do it... if you want to paint autumn wood elfs with reds yellows and oranges that stay natural and don't look like a cartoon, limited palettes work... I also have to say miniature paints suck for mixing, buy liquitex soft body acrylic, titanium white, indian yellow, quin crimson, phthalo blue green shade, iridescent white for metallic... you can make black by mixing the 3 primarys, u can make grey by adding white to a bluish black, and you can make brown adding white to a orangish black :)
Check your paints' transparency. Tube paints go from opaque to transparent, depending on the color. It should be indicated on the tube by a square: a black square means opaque, a white square means transparent, and a half square somewhere in between. Typically, ultramarine is transparent (I know that's the case with Liquitex), but that also depends on the brand.
I like the format. It gives us a better insight into the learning experience you're undergoing as you work with the product.
You're such an affable guy the freestyle tone of this video works just fine. Not better than scripted, but just fine. It's kind of like the comparison of heavy body medium tube acrylics vs. pigment focused fluid model colors. . . not better, just different but different enough and successful enough to warrant further investigation.
Love your work, you're great, thanks and keep at it.
This video shows that sometimes the tools matter more and sometimes the talent does.
Video format felt fluid and the info was presented really well. As high quality as your other vids. Love the cuts too.
golden has a line of thinner paints(golden fluids i think). they are great. a lot of magic the gathering card alterers use these
The fact that I now know you do these videos at 5 AM puts so much into perspective
Looks like great supplies for terrain and other large scale projects.
I'm just getting back into painting miniatures, and have done a good amount of research about different types of paint and thinning them, because I bought an airbrush. I also did some research on paint mixing, because I know that Red, Green, Blue are the primaries for additive color (shining light, like TV), while Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow are the primaries for subtractive colors (reflected light, like printing, and I assumed paint). So I wanted to see if trying CMYK was worth it.
So the first issue, thinning the paints, is caused because you're actually fighting the medium. Heavy Body paints don't necessarily have more pigment. What they have is a thicker medium. So you actually have to add much more water to thin them to "standard" mini painting thickness. If you want to do that you want to start with Soft Body or even Liquid Body (I assume this won't come in tubes) artist paints. These have a thinner medium. So you will need much less water to get the effect that you're used to.
As for the color mixing. My first suggestion would be to use single pigment colors as your bases. That should minimize unexpected results. Beyond that, consider trying CMYK. If you look around, you can find out what the "best" color is for each primary (for instance, I believe Pthalo Green is the "proper" cyan). In theory, proper use of CMYK should prevent the disappointing desaturated mixes you're experiencing.
Hope all of that helps!!!
I dig this video. I love the way you walk us through your thought process. It is very helpful to see how you experiment and deal with issues as they arise.
I think it's a cool format for trying out products because it really highlights your journey of finding the right way to work with the product. It also definitely works the same for doing challenges where you're figuring out how to deal with the limitations and push past them in a new creative way.
I'd keep the more structured style for regular miniature paintings or tutorials because laying out the information in a clear, structured way is more important in those types of videos, but I'm definitely interested in these "This is my experience with X" videos too!
I like the format you are doing what we would do ourselves
I enjoyed this format of video it was just as informative, but felt more relaxed. Personally I prefer this compared to the normal format. Both are still highly informative and enjoyable.
I like the unscripted style. I also like seeing the raw first impressions you had for this similar but different product. There are so many products that we all want to buy and try out and it's frustrating when they don't perform how we expect.
I really liked the video style. It felt like you stepped us through your thought process in a more real time sort of way. It felt more natural than a scripted video does.
Really enjoyed this video! I grew up rather poor but still did a lot of mini painting as well as painting in general, so I've experimented with all sorts of different cheap and/or inappropriate paints.
In a perfect world of color theory you should be able to do everything with a vibrant Red, Yellow, Blue, as well as black and white, but just due to how pigmentation is made I haven't found that to be the case, even with with more expensive or appropriate paints. Try making purple by mixing red and blue Citadel paints and the results will be dull.
For a really strong limited palette, you want the 5 mentioned colors previously, and then the most important colors to get (in order IMO) are a vibrant purple, vibrant green, pale flesh tone (which is not strictly necessary but always mixing a quality flesh tone from scratch is time consuming), and a good middle-brown - which like the pale flesh, is just for convenience due to how frequently it's used.
That's pretty much what I stick with to this day and I found it to be true in the world of mini painting as well as oil and acrylic canvas painting.
so a thing about mixing colors - art colors, as in painting, not specificaly connceted to miniature painting; having 3 basic colors to mix all the secondary colors is not enough. You have to have 2 different reds (cinnober and crimson), 2 blues (royal and marine or aquamarine), 2 yellows (sienna,lemon-or a third blue like ocher). So to get orange you mix cinnober and sienna, to get purple you mix royal and crimson, to get green you mix aquamarine and lemon. So you need a minimum of 6 colors + black and white. With this you can mix any color you want. Metallic "colors" are not colors (as they are not a part of the spectrum) they are rather called properties, this is also true for fluorescent "colors". These you can't mix with primary colors. This is what they teach you in art schools. Also, have in mind that you could theoretically paint with no black and white, since they are not colors , but rather "light" and "darkness" properties.
I went crazy with miniature painting back in the heyday of Warhammer 20 years ago and I mainly used best quality (artist) tube acrylics, as I was used to them from doing a lot of painting on canvas. The difference is pigments quality - it's pure pigments in best tube paints versus all kind of mixes and fillers in the crappy miniature 'paint' pots you get from miniature companies (that are insanely expensive compared to artist colors). You just need to know that some pigments are transparent by nature and others opaque and use that to your advantage (body colors vs. washes) to get consistent, long lasting (artist colors are most lightproof) and great looking results. You can get liquid artist quality too - usefull for airbrush I suppose (never tried). Thanks for interesting uploads - makes even an old fart like me want to start painting again :-)
I appreciate this kind of experimentation, especially since it can lead to more mini paint options at a much more reasonable cost. Combine that with the fact that places like Michaels and Hobby Lobby always do discounts, coupons, etc, and you can really hit a sweet spot for painting well on a budget.
Wow, 42K subs?! That's awesome, I know how much effort you put into the channel and it's paying off for you as the channel grows. Good for you, you've helped me grow as a painter this past couple years and I find myself constantly re-watching old technique videos that you've posted, even the super basic ones to pick up little tips here and there. Really appreciate what you do, you're great for the hobby! Keep it up!
Very nice video, I enjoyed your honest and verbose style in this one. A script is good as it allows you to think about what your going to say but in this new era of streaming painters I think the more open improv style is much more current, thanks again
A few comments on Artist's acrylics:
1. Matte paints include an agent to scatter light (that's what makes them matte). The light that is scattered will not go through the pigment first, so you don't have the saturation that you can get from gloss paints. You can always make a gloss paint matte, but you can never make a matte paint truly gloss (even with a gloss overcoat, you're stilling getting some of that scattering), so for really saturated colors, you need gloss.
2. Artists paints come in what are commonly called Student and Professional grades. The Student-grade paints, which it sounds like these are, have less pigment density and less acrylic medium, so they won't cover as well and they'll break down under thinning much faster. This is pretty much the same difference as between good miniatures paints and craft paints.
3. Hobby paints are made with exactly the same pigments as artists' paints, but in hobby paints, they're premixed to something that the paint formulator thinks will sell. No major problem with this in many cases, but because they will typically include multiple different pigment colors to get the perfect shade of Kobold Gore or whatever, mixing with another paint can give you unpredictable results. When you're using single-pigment paints, you can trust that your mixes will behave the same each time. But each pigment has its own characteristics, in opacity, in mixing, in speed of drying, ....
4. If you want a consistency more like that with hobby paints, you might consider trying the Golden Fluid Acrylics. The purity of the pigments can give you really punchy colors if that's what you want. But you'll need to flat the paint by adding a matting agent, diluting with acrylic matte medium, or adding a matte overcoat at the end if you don't want gloss.
5. Blake Graumann, elsewhere in this thread, is right that you need to choose your mixing colors carefully. Cobalt Blue and Quinacridone Red, for instance, make quite a nice purple. But I actually prefer Dioxazine Purple, which can be mixed with Titanium White to give a gorgeous range of purples from almost black to very light violet.
I did like this form of video. I particularly liked that you kept your mistakes in the final edit; it's useful to others to see some of the ways that things can go wrong and how to fix them.
Great video. I like the format. You achieved an amazing result for never having used the materials or technique before.
I use the artist acrylics from Walmart to pretty good effect. Fairly matte and when used with a wet palette, they thin down pretty well.
When I first started painting, I used all the cheap stuff and never used water. Paper towels were my best friend. It wasn't until I learned about using water to thin out the colors... that I realized my cheap paints were insufficient for the job I was tasking them to accomplish. Go figure! This video reminded me of the two years it took me to go "oh duh!" Lol Great laid-back style for this one. Subbed.
Great video man.....somebody been watching Jack Conte vids?
maybe..................
I mean, I am....and you’re doing some of the edit tricks he does that I don’t feel capable of doing. You’re nailing it.
Really enjoyed the video, I find your style really refreshing. Keep up the great videos.
Disclaimer before any reader get too far into my comment, I am not a professional painter but thought this bit of info could help as it has helped me a lot in my hobby life (both minis and canvas painting). Also, did not scroll through the list of comments so someone could have said this already.
Limited palettes as you noticed can have some pretty substantial gaps in them when it comes to mixing other colors. You noted that the Ultramarine was warm and leaned to the green side. I think your yellow was also cooler and the red looked a little warm (This could all be tricks of your camera, my monitor and so on, but your mixing results did kind of confirm this). A lot of artists will use a split primary palette, meaning two yellows, two blues...etc. By nudging the colors to either side of the "primary" you will be able to better hit the colors that fall between.
Finding the "right" colors will require you basically make color wheels with your paints (not an exciting exercise but a really educational one, its something I try to do every time I buy a new paint to learn about how it interacts with my palette). Grab three, start mixing...grab three more and keep going. Without much knowledge of the specific paints you used I cannot be certain on where to start but try things like Lemon Yellow and Crimson Red as they typically trend as the more "primary" colors and go from there.
Hope that was helpful, keep up the great work.
I like the format, but I also enjoy the sripts. I would also be interested in seeing your paint shelf setup.
Mixing colors: you really only need a pallet of 6 colors (plus black and white) but you have to get the hues right for the secondary you are looking for. I paint with oils and I use Lemon Yellow, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red, Alizarin Crimson, Cobalt Blue and Ultramarine Blue. Lemon Yellow and Ultramarine Blue will make a very saturated green where as Cadmium Yellow and Ultramarine will wind up being muddier. If you can find a copy of a book called Yellow and Blue Don't Make Green at a reasonable price I recommend it. thanks for the content.
Just discovered your channel this week. I'm about to jump into painting this weekend and I'm super nervous, but at the same time very excited. The new format is good, definitely not a replacement for the more scripted stuff, which is super helpful for new comers, but I guess the non scripted videos make prep & post work waaaaay quicker, which means ultimately we get more content. So it's a win win.
I like this style of video a lot. It’s very nice to be able to compare the first impression to the later formed, more nianced opinion. And it’s great to see you doing the work “on the fly”. I suggest you do this more often, since it feels like you get a real honest review out of this!
I started painting miniatures recently. Went through a few brands of paints myself of course trying NOT to spend an arm and a leg on the paints. I did however fall into the Arteza price point myself and decided to give them a whirl. I have to agree that i did find them somewhat glossy in SOME of the colors and flat on others as I was painting myself. For base coating and large areas they are absolutely perfect out of the tube. But if you are doing washes I found that if you do a 2-1 mix ratio with the paints you'll achieve a great quality wash. I did also do a model where I mixed up different brands and found that particular model (D&D Bulette) to come out absolutely outstanding. For the price they did surprise me and of course I'm going to continue to use them because well.. I bought them. They are great for a beginner who's just getting INTO painting but for a professional, not the greatest. Thanks for the honest review. You hit the review the same way I felt about them personally. I do like them but I'm also open to other paints as well.
I agree completely with your “too detailed model” comments. Luckily for me I do not paint “armies”anymore. As a fine artist who is also a gamer, I use artist quality tube paints for my black and white. They play well with other paints and I get four times as much paint than I would from a pot or bottle. Which I find nice considering those two are used quite a lot. Thanks for the reviews of the other tubers. 👍
Dude, love seeing others take using primary color limitations. I'd like to see more of this kind of content later.
Awesome video Scott! Really like this style. It was great to see your approach to painting the mini start to finish without scripting, as well as your honest opinion of the new paints.
It would be cool to see this style (maybe in a couple of parts) painting an intensely complex paint job start to finish, and how you approach it.
Love this style of vid. I like watching the thought process and seeing how you reach your conclusions.
One of my favorite things about your work Scott is that you go with the Sam Lenz school of "big brushes aren't scary".
I liked the format. How you worked through the learning process was interesting.
You wanted to buy soft body, it's a closer consistency to miniature paints so you wouldn't need to thin as much and the pigment particals will be finer ground. When dealing with opacity, for canvas painters its a bit tricky as more opacity is not necessary better, on the tubes it tells you how opaque or transparent each colour is. Canvas painters want both opaque and transparent paints so you can build up layers, but still allowing visibility too the layers underneath the top layers too build up vibrancy and depth. In an artist range you tend to find similar colours with different opacities for example cadmium yellow is opaque and hansa yellow is transparent but they are very similar colours. On mixing colours, in general you will get brighter colours when mixing single pigment colours or if not, mixing a 2 pigment colour and a 1 pigment colour that share 1 colour, otherwise you will get a muted tertiary colour. You can work this out using the codes of the pigments on the tubes by looking up the colours of the individual pigments. Although mixing is not an exact science. Sometimes you can get a brighter colours using an optical mix which is when you glaze a transparent blue over a yellow for example, this is especially true when airbrushing. I hope this is legible and helpful.
End result kicks @$$! The only thing I’d add is a few more details on the quiver and it’s quite a result!
I didn't even think it was possible to use tube paints without adding thinners and using them like washes. Learn something new every day. By the way, the green was dull because you picked a warm yellow, so it probably has some red in it :)
I enjoyed the off script video! It’s nice for a noob like myself to hear your thought process and color exploration while you paint. It seems like a fun part of painting minis is experimenting with colors! I’ve only used the Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Mini’s Starter Kit so far, so I’m a little nervous to go off the grid and start mixing the little bit of paint I have.
Firstly, great informative video. Secondly, I like both, the scripted and unscripted style, and both fit different topics I guess. Lastly, I really enjoyed the journey. I was kinda bummed out how "bad" the acrylics were, but you kept on trying, figuring out how to do it better, shared your thought process and made it work in the end. "Oddly" satisfying I'd say.
Also, it's always nice to broaden the horizon if I may say so, and improving your set off tools. There are so many narrowminded painters out there, only trusting miniature painting guides (which are perfectly fine ofc), but if you look left and right, there are thousands of tutorials out there for painting in general, many techniques can be translated to miniatures as well! Always nice to experiment with new stuff.
I smile every time you post a video, thanks for easing me into my morning with your chill style.
I am happy to bring you happiness, my friend
The model looked good. Finally someone on RUclips used tube paints. I bought some wal mart special tube paints and am going to try em on some space wolf models.
Interesting experiment. I have had the same issue with mixing (other brand) paints, the colour you expect to see just vanishes.
Closest explanation I found was that there is a big difference between how colours mix by pigment and by light spectrum.
The pigment might be there but the light spectrum is being absorbed when, in this case, you wish it wasn't. Or possibly the other way around.
Guess this is the genius of paint design and quality, getting this balance just right.
Def liking it makes it more fun and I just started my mini painting path so def helping me out a lot with the vids and also about product so I’ll def be painting more minis and can’t wait to see more
Really enjoyed this vid. Liked especially that it was a bit longer than most of your regular vids. Keep up the good work fam!
There's a LOT of acrylic painters (on canvas) thinning paint to ensure a completely flat surface. This is especially true for acrylic painters doing photo-realism. They use diff combos of acrylic medium (not the stuff labeled "extended drying time"). The key to coverage with a tube acrylic that's been thinned is experimenting with the right medium. "Gac" is prob too much. But 1/2 gac + 1/2 matte medium (plus paint) MIGHT work better.