The gfs 4.0 blew part of the set up out of the ds valve cover. When i replaced everything on the front i found the balance shaft chain snapped. Part of the timing set wedged between the gear teeth and stoped it in its tracks. Instead of spending ton of $ on a replacement balance shaft i just left the chain off of it because i figured the shaft had to remain in place for oil pressure flow. Ford made the 4.0 sohc with and with out the shaft. Her motor runs fine. Just feel a little more vibration with it in low range and idle. Rest of the time there is no difference. Just a heads up for people that might run into the same problem and cant afford the balance shaft.
You are correct in that not all of the 4.0L engines of this vintage had a balance shaft. The versions that went in to two wheel drive vehicles were less likely to have a balance shaft than their 4X4 counterparts. I would not do that to a customers vehicle, but I could see attempting it on my own if money was an issue. I don't know if it would have an affect on the lifespan of the engine, but that may be something to consider if you are thinking about going this route. Thank you for watching the video, and keep me posted on how your out of balance engine is doing. I'm curious to see how it performs without the balance shaft in operation.
If you find you're replacing all four chains on the 4.0 don't fret if you can't afford the alignment tool. Just did mine again and found the left bank cam is almost in proper pos once you rotate the groove down. The right bank is tricky since there is a lobe or two pushing on the valves (once rotated) so finesse it with locking pliers and tighten that cam bolt last. Also eye the key and split it's width to the left instead of 12 o'clock and gain some additional torque. Whew.
Great Video! I am attempting to set timing on left (driver) camshaft. (2005 explorer 4.0L SOHC) Have timing tool lined everything up and torqued to spec, won't start. Throws P0340 and P1336 code. Replaced camshaft position sensor, no change. Is there something on the left camshaft sprocket that has to be lined up for the camshaft position sensor to sense the camshaft position? My understanding is that other than lining up the left camshaft with the tool with crankshaft at 0 degrees TDC for #1 cylinder, the sprocket location doesn't matter so long as it's torqued properly. Not sure how the camshaft position sensor knows the location if there is not a magnet or protrusion on the sprocket that also has to be aligned.
Make sure #1 and #5 are top dead center and if you have a balancer shaft make sure the dot is lined up toward the right pointing toward the line on the block it might need a few turns to line up
I shared a keyway installed a new gear and keyway lined up the cam so they're parallel to the heads and brought the crank keyway to the very top and it still seems like it's 90° off or 180
Hey brother hey man this is my first time ever like commenting to somebody I don't even know how this works but I don't know if you'll get this but I have a question about the 4.0 L engine the special video on timing I ain't got much money and I've already put like almost 300 in the front all the same thing happened to munch on the front and I was wondering if it happened in the front does that mean the back is bad too?
Sorry for the late reply, but if it jumped time on the passenger side, to replace that casette the engine will need to come out. then you retime everything from the passenger side first all the way back to the jackshaft.
I replace the timing belt tensioner on07 Ford explorer and I having problem to get it started I think the timing is off I just wanted to know ow to set it up in time thank you I will appreciate you
I don' remember any of the Explorers sold in the U.S. having a timing belt, they are all chain drive. If it is chain drive the new tensioner has to be activated by removing the valve cover, reaching in with a soft tipped pry bar then sharply pushing in and releasing the catch in the tensioner. if you do not activate the tensioner and it does not activate on its own the vehicle will be out of time due to slack in the chain. There is a way to set up the timing without buying the special tools for it, but I don not remember what it is off the top of my head. I may have covered it in one of my other videos on these engines. there are no timing marks, and the engine almost needs to be out of the truck to pull it off.
Great viedo! I'm preparing to do this on 2001 ford explorer 4L V6 4*4 . have got all tools. I don't have a garage. , living in a city. I plan to pull the transmission. Do you think it is doable by pull the transmission back to get access to the back of the engine. my level is that I have replaced the fuel pump and fix the check engine light. thank you.
Marian Lee it will be difficult that way but doable. If you can, it is easier to pull the engine and get it on a stand. I always like to drop the oil pan to check for pieces of the timing guides to ensure there is nothing that might restrict the screen on the oil pump pick up. Just take your time either way you go to make sure everything is set properly before you get it all back together. Best of luck to you, and thank you for watching.
On that side you can see the groove at the front on the cam. Make sure the smaller segment is facing downward and flush with the valve cover base on the head.
Good shit man i bought a 05 lr4 4.0 same engine im guessing this happened to mine had it for 6 monthes it was raddling and eventually sputtered to a stop when i turn it over it cranks way too smoothly without a spark i replaced crank and cam sensors ecu looks flawless new plugs ,coolant temp and tires brakes and a lift just so it doesnt run how hard is the fix do i need to pull the engine ? Ive never done that so i hope not. Any pointers to a newbie that is on a budget in minnesota. Also how long did it take you or how long should it take if i can do this while engine is connected if its just a slipped timing
Anthony Sciuto thank you for subscribing. I have bad news though, your engine will need to come out. If it has stopped running a full timing set is in order. You will also want to run a leak down test on each cylinder to check for bent valves before you dig in to the engine. If your engine is lower mileage you can get away with pulling the heads and replacing the bent valves, but if your engine has some miles on it you may be better off looking at a reman, or trying to find a low mileage take out. If you are fairly new to mechanics you will probably want to invest in the tools to set the timing, and if possible find someone who has done a couple of these to help check your work that way if you miss something it can get fixed before you get the engine back in the vehicle. I know that’s probably not what you were hoping to hear, but I hope it helps. You can check e-bay for the timing tool set, and for the right price you Could probably sell them for what you paid when you are done with the job.
You want to pull the engine since the left bank cam chain components are at the rear of the engine. Best if replacing all four chains, guides etc. 2 Buy quality parts unless trading it.
The engine runs great, and the customer was very happy with it. He had just purchased the Explorer that it was in a little over a month earlier. Had to replace one of the valves that was bent and not sealing properly from when the timing guides broke, and found several other broken parts inside the engine while I was trying to get all of the pieces of timing components out. I have the whole process on video, I just have not had the chance to edit it all together yet. Hopefully I will get it posted for everyone soon.
Where did you buy the timing components? If they were not from ford it is possible one of the tensioners is bad. See if you can isolate the noise to one side of the other, then swap out that tensioner and see what happens. You can even use one of the old tensioners for testing,if they were still ok, and see what happens.
It could be.probably not but the way to find out is to set your timing based off of the crank cylinder one should be at top dead center compression stroke And your cam shafts that notch on the back of the cam should be parallel with the cylinder head in ur case if the right side is parallel and the left side isn’t after you set the timing then it’s jump time and it’s out If your crank is pointing at TDC and your two camshaft Notches both are parallel with the cylinder head ur good I hope this cleared things up for u good luck
As long as the slot is below the centerline of the camshaft and parallel with the upper surface of the head the cam is in time. If the slot is above center it will put that cam 180 degrees out of time and you could possibly bend valves. If you are going to try to time this engine without the special tool set I recommend removing the cam followers. This will make the cams much easier to hold in the correct position as you tighten everything down, as you wont be fighting the valve springs. They make a special tool to compress the valve springs with the cam still in place and it is OTC part number7928 and is available on Amazon for $76.28. It does not specifically say that it will work on the 4.0L, but that should be the correct tool to compress the valve spring and remove the follower. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your 4.0.
Where are you running in to problems? It has been a while since I have done one, but I’ll try my best to help. The first thing you have to do is set the timing on the front chain that runs from the crank to the jack shaft. Once you have done that and torqued the jack shaft bolt it is time to set the timing on the left (drivers) side cam. This is where the special Ford tools come in handy if not necessary. You may be able to get them as a loaner tool from an auto parts store. You can do it without them but it’s not going to be easy.
If you are asking if you need to run the balance shaft chain, no I guess you really don’t. The purpose of the balance shaft is to remove or minimize engine vibration. It could possibly have an effect on engine longevity, but I don’t know.
Great explanation, just not a fan of your shacky camera and especially you quick panning shots slower panning shots won’t make views motion sick , otherwise great video! I sub’d to ur channel!
Great video. I'm doing all this now. I just wanted to add that my holding brackets came with a chain tension gauge for head chais also.
I'm doing this job now.. Thanks for the tips
Mr Joseph ive seen lots of videos on these timing chains...this one is explained step by step .thanks....
The gfs 4.0 blew part of the set up out of the ds valve cover. When i replaced everything on the front i found the balance shaft chain snapped. Part of the timing set wedged between the gear teeth and stoped it in its tracks. Instead of spending ton of $ on a replacement balance shaft i just left the chain off of it because i figured the shaft had to remain in place for oil pressure flow.
Ford made the 4.0 sohc with and with out the shaft. Her motor runs fine. Just feel a little more vibration with it in low range and idle. Rest of the time there is no difference. Just a heads up for people that might run into the same problem and cant afford the balance shaft.
You are correct in that not all of the 4.0L engines of this vintage had a balance shaft. The versions that went in to two wheel drive vehicles were less likely to have a balance shaft than their 4X4 counterparts. I would not do that to a customers vehicle, but I could see attempting it on my own if money was an issue. I don't know if it would have an affect on the lifespan of the engine, but that may be something to consider if you are thinking about going this route.
Thank you for watching the video, and keep me posted on how your out of balance engine is doing. I'm curious to see how it performs without the balance shaft in operation.
If you find you're replacing all four chains on the 4.0 don't fret if you can't afford the alignment tool. Just did mine again and found the left bank cam is almost in proper pos once you rotate the groove down. The right bank is tricky since there is a lobe or two pushing on the valves (once rotated) so finesse it with locking pliers and tighten that cam bolt last. Also eye the key and split it's width to the left instead of 12 o'clock and gain some additional torque. Whew.
How do you know where the cam supposed to be in a go either way straight across
Great Video! I am attempting to set timing on left (driver) camshaft. (2005 explorer 4.0L SOHC) Have timing tool lined everything up and torqued to spec, won't start. Throws P0340 and P1336 code. Replaced camshaft position sensor, no change. Is there something on the left camshaft sprocket that has to be lined up for the camshaft position sensor to sense the camshaft position? My understanding is that other than lining up the left camshaft with the tool with crankshaft at 0 degrees TDC for #1 cylinder, the sprocket location doesn't matter so long as it's torqued properly. Not sure how the camshaft position sensor knows the location if there is not a magnet or protrusion on the sprocket that also has to be aligned.
Make sure #1 and #5 are top dead center and if you have a balancer shaft make sure the dot is lined up toward the right pointing toward the line on the block it might need a few turns to line up
LOL, Thanx for the laughs and your balance shaft secondary shaft is out of time also.
Hi I have the same engine I'm replacing just driver side head do I need to reset the whole timing or can I just reset the cylinder head chain
Hey I was wondering on the left side timing rail to cam. Does the tensioner rest on that triangle bulky top part or below it ?
Top
I shared a keyway installed a new gear and keyway lined up the cam so they're parallel to the heads and brought the crank keyway to the very top and it still seems like it's 90° off or 180
is there anyway you can shake the camera a bit more please
Hey brother hey man this is my first time ever like commenting to somebody I don't even know how this works but I don't know if you'll get this but I have a question about the 4.0 L engine the special video on timing I ain't got much money and I've already put like almost 300 in the front all the same thing happened to munch on the front and I was wondering if it happened in the front does that mean the back is bad too?
It's usually the back right that goes unfortunately.
What happens if my timing jumps on my cams and my jackshaft and everything else is fine? Cassette let go and it jumped timing on right passenger side
Sorry for the late reply, but if it jumped time on the passenger side, to replace that casette the engine will need to come out. then you retime everything from the passenger side first all the way back to the jackshaft.
What are the foot pond on the cam
Could you tell me what size the tax bolt is on the large sprocket
I replace the timing belt tensioner on07 Ford explorer and I having problem to get it started I think the timing is off I just wanted to know ow to set it up in time thank you I will appreciate you
I don' remember any of the Explorers sold in the U.S. having a timing belt, they are all chain drive. If it is chain drive the new tensioner has to be activated by removing the valve cover, reaching in with a soft tipped pry bar then sharply pushing in and releasing the catch in the tensioner. if you do not activate the tensioner and it does not activate on its own the vehicle will be out of time due to slack in the chain.
There is a way to set up the timing without buying the special tools for it, but I don not remember what it is off the top of my head. I may have covered it in one of my other videos on these engines. there are no timing marks, and the engine almost needs to be out of the truck to pull it off.
Great viedo! I'm preparing to do this on 2001 ford explorer 4L V6 4*4 . have got all tools. I don't have a garage. , living in a city. I plan to pull the transmission. Do you think it is doable by pull the transmission back to get access to the back of the engine. my level is that I have replaced the fuel pump and fix the check engine light. thank you.
Marian Lee it will be difficult that way but doable. If you can, it is easier to pull the engine and get it on a stand. I always like to drop the oil pan to check for pieces of the timing guides to ensure there is nothing that might restrict the screen on the oil pump pick up. Just take your time either way you go to make sure everything is set properly before you get it all back together. Best of luck to you, and thank you for watching.
I need to know the position of the passenger cam shaft . When we put how it’s supposed to go. The valves are open .
On that side you can see the groove at the front on the cam. Make sure the smaller segment is facing downward and flush with the valve cover base on the head.
Good shit man i bought a 05 lr4 4.0 same engine im guessing this happened to mine had it for 6 monthes it was raddling and eventually sputtered to a stop when i turn it over it cranks way too smoothly without a spark i replaced crank and cam sensors ecu looks flawless new plugs ,coolant temp and tires brakes and a lift just so it doesnt run how hard is the fix do i need to pull the engine ? Ive never done that so i hope not. Any pointers to a newbie that is on a budget in minnesota. Also how long did it take you or how long should it take if i can do this while engine is connected if its just a slipped timing
Anthony Sciuto thank you for subscribing. I have bad news though, your engine will need to come out. If it has stopped running a full timing set is in order. You will also want to run a leak down test on each cylinder to check for bent valves before you dig in to the engine. If your engine is lower mileage you can get away with pulling the heads and replacing the bent valves, but if your engine has some miles on it you may be better off looking at a reman, or trying to find a low mileage take out. If you are fairly new to mechanics you will probably want to invest in the tools to set the timing, and if possible find someone who has done a couple of these to help check your work that way if you miss something it can get fixed before you get the engine back in the vehicle. I know that’s probably not what you were hoping to hear, but I hope it helps. You can check e-bay for the timing tool set, and for the right price you Could probably sell them for what you paid when you are done with the job.
@@JosephVollmar hi sir how are you please when this engine broken front timing chain they valve are bend or not
You want to pull the engine since the left bank cam chain components are at the rear of the engine. Best if replacing all four chains, guides etc. 2 Buy quality parts unless trading it.
Where is the sensor located? The camshaft position sensor? Is it 3 wire or 4 wire? The same engine explorer 2000 4.6L v6 sohc
The 4.0L V-6, and the 4.6L V-8 are very different engines. I would have to look up the cam sensor locations for both to give you an accurate answer.
Hello, Nice video. how does the motor run?
The engine runs great, and the customer was very happy with it. He had just purchased the Explorer that it was in a little over a month earlier. Had to replace one of the valves that was bent and not sealing properly from when the timing guides broke, and found several other broken parts inside the engine while I was trying to get all of the pieces of timing components out. I have the whole process on video, I just have not had the chance to edit it all together yet. Hopefully I will get it posted for everyone soon.
I just did this job. Now after I started the engine I have a fast tick that speeds up with rpm?? And ideas ??
Where did you buy the timing components? If they were not from ford it is possible one of the tensioners is bad. See if you can isolate the noise to one side of the other, then swap out that tensioner and see what happens. You can even use one of the old tensioners for testing,if they were still ok, and see what happens.
@@JosephVollmar it ended up being the crank shaft timing chain tensioner on the passenger side.
63 fps on the cam bolts with or without the tool that the torque wrench fits into? Thanks, AJ
AJ W without the tool.
You forgot to put the balancer on the line it must go on the 3pm mark or seam mark , according to the ford mechanic
Thank
If the cassette for cam front vaulecover breaks does that mean it's out of tlme
It could be.probably not but the way to find out is to set your timing based off of the crank cylinder one should be at top dead center compression stroke And your cam shafts that notch on the back of the cam should be parallel with the cylinder head in ur case if the right side is parallel and the left side isn’t after you set the timing then it’s jump time and it’s out If your crank is pointing at TDC and your two camshaft Notches both are parallel with the cylinder head ur good I hope this cleared things up for u good luck
You use a cloyes kit?
Yes
Is the cloyes kit still good?
@@charlesvancil2858 garbage. Get melling or Ford.
So as long as that slot in the back of the camshaft is straight across the cam is in timing
As long as the slot is below the centerline of the camshaft and parallel with the upper surface of the head the cam is in time. If the slot is above center it will put that cam 180 degrees out of time and you could possibly bend valves. If you are going to try to time this engine without the special tool set I recommend removing the cam followers. This will make the cams much easier to hold in the correct position as you tighten everything down, as you wont be fighting the valve springs. They make a special tool to compress the valve springs with the cam still in place and it is OTC part number7928 and is available on Amazon for $76.28. It does not specifically say that it will work on the 4.0L, but that should be the correct tool to compress the valve spring and remove the follower. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your 4.0.
@@JosephVollmar Both cams should be below center to be in time?
ms joseph im having isue setting uo the timing of my ford 4.0 v6 sohc can u give me a hand ill really appreciate it
Where are you running in to problems? It has been a while since I have done one, but I’ll try my best to help. The first thing you have to do is set the timing on the front chain that runs from the crank to the jack shaft. Once you have done that and torqued the jack shaft bolt it is time to set the timing on the left (drivers) side cam. This is where the special Ford tools come in handy if not necessary. You may be able to get them as a loaner tool from an auto parts store. You can do it without them but it’s not going to be easy.
@@JosephVollmar I have a question. I’m trying to replace one of the guides on my 09 4.0 mustang. But does this engine have a rear chain as well ?
@@JosephVollmar and how do you do this without messing up the timing on the rear
On a 2004 4.0 sport trac....rear wheel drive,not 4 need a chain at all on lower balance sprocket
If you are asking if you need to run the balance shaft chain, no I guess you really don’t. The purpose of the balance shaft is to remove or minimize engine vibration. It could possibly have an effect on engine longevity, but I don’t know.
Great explanation, just not a fan of your shacky camera and especially you quick panning shots slower panning shots won’t make views motion sick , otherwise great video! I sub’d to ur channel!
These vidieo dont teach torque spec. Subsribing to furom
That balance shaft you really dont have to even run you can delete it
I watched another video and the person claimed it came on 4WD's. It was also stated that it is not needed.