These are the Special Tools Needed for Part 2: Dampener Removal Tool- amzn.to/2JadPs1 Rocker Arm Removal Tool (split in half)- amzn.to/2Sb2Jag External Torx Set- amzn.to/2NYlavf T55 Torx Bit- amzn.to/2PPEwor
Is the best way to test my timing work to rotate clockwise by hand with no plugs in? Anxiously awaiting part 3. Thanks, your work is up there with the best availale. Belive me, I've watched them all......
This channel is awesome! I have never removed and engine from any vehicle before and I am not an auto mechanic. I watched this 4 part series 3 times until it was close to memorized. I followed the process exactly and the job was a total success. Thanks!!
Thank you for these very informative walkthrough videos. I just rebuilt my 2001 4.0 v6 sohc using this series as a reference and it made the job 100x easier. Also, I did not have to remove the dowels before mounting the engine to the stand. I was able to keep the dowels in place and use it as a mounting point. No damage was done in the end.
I just sold one of these POS. After seeing this I'm glad I did. I drive a '51 Ford flathead V8 every day, and can fix anything on it with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers!!!!
Excellent video. I installed a new timing kit on my 1996 Subaru ej22 last year. Pretty straight forward. Thanks for this very in depth series. As I now know that I'll not be doing this job on my 2011 Ranger. This is a 80% complete engine teardown. This is another world compared to doing the subaru.
Make sure you use the OEM Motorcraft parts, I cheaped out with a Cloyes kit and had a timing chain rattle while cold about 30k miles later and sold the truck rather than possibly deal with having to do this all over again. Maybe I could've gotten away with just new tensioners but it wasn't worth the worry. Another note: Use the Motorcraft oil filters on these engines. They're so cheap and easy to find and the anti-drain-back valve makes sure that the tensioners and rockers get oil pressure ASAP on startup. A $3 oil filter can hold off this issue a little longer as well as reduce the odds that your engine develops the typical 4.0 tick.
Thanks immensely for these videos you made on the Ford V6 4L . I have a Ford Ranger XLT and wanted to change out my timing chains and sprockets. The dealership here, wanted a arm and leg to have it done indeed. With the help of your very informative and precise steps to do this , made it possible for me to do it without any mistakes. thanks once again. I have had my Ford Ranger for many years and will never part with it . Even though its very thirsty, have always enjoyed the Ford. In our language , I have a sticker at the back of the Bakkie that reads ""Altyd Dors soos ekke vir Brannas"". Regards Alien.
This engine is a pain the neck to fix, I took this project as a learning experience. After the Ford expert mentioned that this V6 is one of the most complicated engines in the ford family I felt like I can tackle any ford engine now. 💪
Ford should have just left well enough alone, the original OHV 4.0 was a good engine and was fairly reliable, no clue why they would turn it into this monstrosity.
They needed an engine with more power and more torque than the OHV engine but didn't want to spend the money to develop a new engine so they slapped a new set of heads on an old engine and called it a day. Why they went with a jackshaft and a rear timing cassette vs running it all off the front of the engine I doubt I will ever know. These engines sure run smooth and made good power and torque for their day but you've got to watch out for their timing system and that plastic thermostat housing.
Probably because running it all off the front like the Duratec Engine would have required a new block design and they were too cheap to do that at the time. They could have just gone with the 4.2 like they had for the V6 option on the F150. I see more Explorers and even some Rangers in the Junk Yard with these SOHC 4.0's people just didn't wanna fix em or couldn't.
Dude am getting ready to my timing chains thank u so much..I've seen your videos for 1 year 02 ford explorer 365,000 miles, finally I have the cohones to do it thanks to u...
Just for fun I bought a 2X4 4.0 ranger 5 spd, just to find out what it was like. Hot Rod! Only 75,000 miles and now rattling on cold start up. I was concerned that it needed timing done, but, after exploring these various videos on the subject, realized that only the tensioners needed replacing. Ford says replace them every 70,000, or face destruction. -- The engine feels great but is a gas pig even with oversize tires and driving it like a baby. I would never buy one of these with high miles! -- I have been using the flood start method: push gas peddle to floor and crank for about 4 seconds to build oil pressure before releasing. No more cold start rattle. AS soon I as I get over this COVID, I will change out the tensioners. Thank U covid for giving me the time to cruise the internet streets. -- If U have death rattle besides the cold start up...>> decide if U want to spend the $$$ and take the risks of the job failing....lots of bad mechanics out there looking to gain experience at YOUR cost! this is definitely an area for EXPERIENCE! --- If U decide to repair, do NOT buy aftermarket chinese parts. Get genuine FORD parts!! Lots of fake parts out there: Rock Auto is NOT your friend. Penny wise pound foolish applies.
Wow! Thank you for your 4 part series on timing a 4.0 SOHC. I've been searching everything out there and there are many decent clips to put together none are as good as your part 1 and 2. I thought I had mine timed, I rotated it clockwise a few turns and it got real hard to keep rotating. I should have backed it off and undid all my work and began again. Instead, I forced it to rotate and I broke the rear jackshaft gear in three pieces. That I found out after hours of investigation. I didn't know if I had a piston or rod binding somewhere, maybe there were still large pieces of nylon chain guide somewhere out of sight. I was able to see I had the wrong gear installed to replace the broken rear j shaft gear. So please get part 3 uploaded. I really could use the info. I am ready to test by rotating again, I'm stalling. Thank you for your detailed work. This DIY-er sincerely apprecieates it.
Absolutely the best videos! I have this engine in my 2006 Land Rover LR3. The front left side timing chain was broken when I bought it. It was cheap so I took the chance.
For those trying to replace camshaft roller followers only (rocker arms) keep in mind that the tool recommended in the description needs to be hammered into two pieces before it will fit into the tight areas surrounding most of the springs (like his description says). Also the forks are an extremely tight fit over the cam lobes so be prepared to wiggle! Awesome video! Noone else provides such detail !
Took me about a month to fix my timing system. Although I only fixed the left cassette keeping the engine in the truck . Did all this after work each day. Big time delay after breaking a valve cover bolt in the block and needing to order sharper bits to remove a broken bolt remover in the block also .
I used to repair Italian and British autos of the 1950's to the 1980's and I thought some of those engines were built funny but that 4.0L V6 is a different animal. I'll bet you had a time with your first 4.0L V6. But you know now. It's interesting to see how engineers design engines and how they find weird ways to put something together. Looking forward to the final videos of this series.
Patrick Kozal I’m guessing it’s similar to why any 4 cylinder bigger than 2.0L has one is for vibration, thinking possibly the transfer case might cause it.
Wow ! You are so knowledgeable and present yourself and information SO well. You should be teaching future TECHS at the Community College level. You have such natural ability and young students need your coaching, teaching, and knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge through your terrific videos.
I'm amazed how clean the engine is. The oil this owner used did a great job. I'm using Mobil 1 extended performance in my F150 2.7 Ecoboost. I heard Pennzoil ultra is a very good choice.
I did "one" of these back in the day, it was in an explorer.. what a freakin nightmare.. had to buy special tools to time the stupid thing to put it back together.. unless Brian shows us some other way in the next video of how to time it.. the gears all just spin willy nilly on the shafts, no indexing pins or anything..
I got to say I have two Ford ranger is that both have the 4 L V6 in them and I just had a cam chain issues tonight for the very first time at 309,000 miles. These engines are not easy to work on but as much as I use my little trucks they have been incredibly dependable. I would buy another one without hesitation.
What in the hell did they really gain with all of this engineering, definitely wasn't keeping cost down, that engine has at least a dozen extra parts than necessary for basic engine operation. Fuel economy? How much is wasted dragging along all of the extra components? Plus the amount of work to service this nightmare! If this thing got 40mpg and made 300hp it would be worth all of the insanity inside. So glad I'm a GM guy, i'll slap a set of intake gaskets and ignition components on an old Vortec 4.3 in an afternoon and be good for another 100k. Thank you for making these videos, I'm a GM mechanic, i rarely work on Fords, but this stuff is interesting and oddly satisfying to watch for some reason, i guess its the insanely over-complicated re-invention of the wheel, I also like the Powerstroke Help guy too, Why do people keep buying those things? Ok, rant over.....sorry i blew up guys.....
Wow what a nightmare of an engine. So glad my exploder has the 4.6L It had the startup rattle too, so I changed the timing chains/guides/tensioners and it was a breeze compared to this.
Thanks for your great videos! You have saved us a lot of time and trouble. One question to viewers or FordTechMakuloco..... While the engine is removed..... Would you replace the head gaskets? 1998 Explorer w/ 148,000 miles. No signs of leak....but while I have easy access.....
It just came to me like a better idea! Let's put the cam in the block and use pushrods. MAYBE after 400,000 miles we can put a new chain in and drive on. You are a great mechanic, wish we had one like you in my area.
Yeah it's to bad. Up until 2001 the were an ohv motor. I did drive one of these motors to 200k mi and sold it still running, my buddy has one that's near 300k and still going, gotta b luck of the draw with these things..?
Thanks for the video! I am curious about the part where you remove the sprocket bolts from the cams. Can I use an impact, or is that a dangerous move? This is my first time attempting a rebuild and it’s the only vehicle I have so I’m trying not to mess up. Thank you for your help! It’s guys like you than make help the little guy survive!
Basically to time the right head without bending any valves. My valves were fine, so I left the LEFT at TDC with rollers in, but removed the RIGHT ones because the timing is set NOT at TDC on the right side.
Hello Brian, I appreciate you are sharing your knowledge with us, I have a question for you, when you have a damage on the timing chain like the one mentioned on the video, is this not causing a damage on the valves or on the pistons that have to be checked before you proceed on replacing the timing cassettes? Thank you Brian, I hope you can help me with my question.
In the middle of a major tune-up this week--rough idle for a week. Has over 239,000 miles (1994 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, V6 XL, 5-speed). Mainly a `Do-it-yourself guy' with the Ranger since buying it in 1995. Have had more issues with the Clutch (slave cylinder) over the years than the engine. Now that the truck is 27 yrs old, I'm not certain if it is worth an over-haul/rebuild at this time. Electric Wires and vacuum hoses are showing wear and the engine mounts are deteriorating. Still has the original water pump, radiator, and AC system. Almost everything else has been replaced--except for the internal parts (like the timing chain, etc). I wonder how long it will last. Hopefully, till I can find a nice `4-banger' to commute to work and back.
Thanks for the great video! Awesome detail and explained extremely well. Question, if I am going to attempt this, how can one tell if the valves did not smack the top of the piston heads if the motor jumped time?
At this point you might as well call for an entire rebuild, to service this engine you have to take almost the entire engine apart, you are only a couple head gaskets, a few seals and a set of bearings away from an entire engine rebuild, I may as well do it, what a pain this little V6 is..... I'll stick with a 3.0 liter next time
When my the Left cassette went on my 2008 I just replaced the engine. They seemed to be a dime a dozen in my area at the time. Got a used two years newer whole engine for $400. Then traded the ranger in for a F150.
Better off having a spare motor then doing all of this. I mean I had to pull heads and cams on one of these motors. Now I will have to remove the whole front just to time cams?
If might be important to mention, if the average person doesnt face a dampener puller its easiest to get a master set loaner from advance auto parts. It has the steel pins you used on the video to press off of the crank
Two Questions - 1.) What is the "Balance" Shaft for? and why would the 4-wheel drives need it but not the 2 wheel drives..., 2.) If you were this far into this engine, wouldn't it be wise to do the head gaskets? These engines are known for the failure of the head gaskets... That is why I'm watching this series; mine is toast on the driver's side. Thanks a ton for this, such a great job with the details, tips and tricks, etc. Awesome stuff! Clay
A nice lady from church wanted her car fixed, friend and I took a look at it. Omg! I looked up the video and showed it to her. I believe god wants her to get a new car!
Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2011 Ranger 4x4 bought it at 165,000 (was a city vehicle so probably maintained) and now at 205,00. How often could you recommend changing the Plungers. Thank you.
Im glad Ford Australia stuck with your 60s platform I6 instead of this v6 nightmare. Give me one of our sohc or dohc barras anyday, now thats a cakewalk. Anyways, top efforts on your timing rebuild on Elm Street. Greetings, Brisbane Australia
That would be too easy and convenient lol... 1. The lone timing chain generally lasted the life of the engine, and 2. If it ever did go bad it could be changed with the engine still in the vehicle and without special tools..
@@muskokamike127 I've never messed with a 5.4 but i've heard alot about em and watched a few videos. I know some were infamous for blowing out spark plugs, the 3 Valve models I believe. Also the 4.6 did it too. Otherwise a good engine though, and certainly easier to retime than a SOHC 4.0 I have an 03 Ranger with a 3.0 Vulcan. I had to replace the heads when I bought the truck cause of bad valves causing a misfire, wasn't too bad a job did it mostly with hand tools and of course the engine IN the vehicle.. Can't get much simpler then those engines.
I have the same truck. You're on borrowed time. Eventually it will start rattling like crazy all the time. I had the timing chains & components replaced.
Appreciate it. I replaced the tensioner already but still rattling. Loud at first start but better as it runs. Cant hear it while driving through rpm band but if I pull in almost to a stop you can hear a faint clicky sound.
Hey i screwed it up. i tried to do that and unfortunately i cross-threated the thread on the passenger side. I could put the tensioner in with a slight angle (down), do you think that would work? Or do you have an other idea?
You want to inspect the cam journals and followers for wear by hand not while installed. Plus it is most accurate way to time a slip fit system like this.
Something something planned obsolescence. If you make it a big enough pain in the ass to work on or extraordinarily expensive to work on people will be more inclined to junk it and buy a new one. I'm positive this is their exact thought process when they draw up this stuff.
Exactly, a very tough call to fix or replace. Just go to the local junkyard, that says it all. The OHV prior that it replaced was made so the average joe can work on it with some cheap tools. It cracks heads sometimes at high mileage but is a very easy (relatively ) job for a saturday. Apple products are the same way, they want it to work until they release the next model.
Floor-it-Duh As many of them as I see in the Junk Yards i'm inclined to agree on that. Shops charge a small fortune to do these jobs, and unless you have the equipment, skillset, and patience to work on these engines they just aren't worth fixing.
I am going through this right now. I have a 2004 ford sport trac. Mechanic said it's the timing chain. He says it might be better to get a rebuild engine as to just replacing the timing chain. He's says these engines are poorly built. This is nuts
When I had this done on my '06 it was about $2400 total but with Cloyes timing components vs. Ford and a reman engine alone was around $3500 plus the labor to swap it out. It's worth considering but if you're in a pinch for money and the rest of the engine is in good shape there's no reason to spend the extra money on a full engine--the bottom end of these engines will run 400k+ miles if you can keep the rest of the engine together around it.
I have an '05 Ford Courier 4x2 with this engine. So much breakable plastic on these things! I'm halfway through replacing a bunch of gaskets...heads, rocker covers, water pump etc. I've only recently acquired the vehicle and it looks like it's been cooked at some point. The radiator and thermostat housing has been replaced but there are still water issues. When I lifted the plenum there were puddles of water in the v of the block. I'll also do the welch plugs seeing as I have access to them.
Is it necessary to remove the cam rollers in every instance? And if so why? If doing this as PM? Is it necessary to set it to TDC? Could you not lock it in the position it is in? Our 2003 Explorer has 220,000 miles - we want to keep, she is mint. Once in there, do you recommend going further. Thank you for such informative videos.
I disassembled the engine in a different order than you is that going to be a problem? I took the tensoners and the chain off first before removing the cam followers?
just curious as WHY you have to remove the roller-followers/rocker arms??? I do not know better cause i have never done it, just trying to understand why. Thanks man i love your videos, have helped may alot!!!!
Do you know either the part number or size of the balance shaft torx bolts? Accidentally stripped one, and now I need to order it? There are four. Appreciate you!!!
Learned a lot, thank you. Doing a rebuild soon. Fortunately I'll be doing EGR delete and installing a supercharger @9.5lbs.....including headers. Will buy a new ARP stud kit for the headers. Miss my G54...sooo much easier to work on, even with the balance shafts. Edit: Have a 1/2" Drive impact..should I add a 3/8" or 1/4"....hard to tell from the video. Otherwise? I'll buy both (ouch).
I have a question my cousin has a 2006 Ford explorer 4*4 are the motors the same all the way up to the 2010 because I was watching you do the timing because apparently my cousin's timing chain broke so I was just watching to get an idea of how much work is involved
These are the Special Tools Needed for Part 2:
Dampener Removal Tool-
amzn.to/2JadPs1
Rocker Arm Removal Tool (split in half)-
amzn.to/2Sb2Jag
External Torx Set-
amzn.to/2NYlavf
T55 Torx Bit-
amzn.to/2PPEwor
My 98 Ford Explorer has the 4.0 sohc and I had to replace the timing guides on it
Can you talk about the Ford 5.0 engine “BBQ tick”? It only happens in the left hand drive vehicles, not the right hand drive vehicles.
Is the best way to test my timing work to rotate clockwise by hand with no plugs in? Anxiously awaiting part 3. Thanks, your work is up there with the best availale. Belive me, I've watched them all......
Mine shut off while driving. So i know the heads have to come off to check the valves and pistons.. The videos are great and super helpful
I'm a little up set. I missed 3 videos with no notification what's going on RUclips get your stuff together
This channel is awesome!
I have never removed and engine from any vehicle before and I am not an auto mechanic.
I watched this 4 part series 3 times until it was close to memorized. I followed the process exactly and the job was a total success.
Thanks!!
Thank you for these very informative walkthrough videos. I just rebuilt my 2001 4.0 v6 sohc using this series as a reference and it made the job 100x easier. Also, I did not have to remove the dowels before mounting the engine to the stand. I was able to keep the dowels in place and use it as a mounting point. No damage was done in the end.
I just sold one of these POS. After seeing this I'm glad I did. I drive a '51 Ford flathead V8 every day, and can fix anything on it with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers!!!!
Do you have to add any fuel additives, like lead substitute and/or octane booster.
🍪
Excellent video. I installed a new timing kit on my 1996 Subaru ej22 last year. Pretty straight forward. Thanks for this very in depth series. As I now know that I'll not be doing this job on my 2011 Ranger. This is a 80% complete engine teardown. This is another world compared to doing the subaru.
I’m a Honda tech and I thought our chain engines were insane, this makes them a cake walk.
Dont look up audis.😎
Make sure you use the OEM Motorcraft parts, I cheaped out with a Cloyes kit and had a timing chain rattle while cold about 30k miles later and sold the truck rather than possibly deal with having to do this all over again. Maybe I could've gotten away with just new tensioners but it wasn't worth the worry.
Another note: Use the Motorcraft oil filters on these engines. They're so cheap and easy to find and the anti-drain-back valve makes sure that the tensioners and rockers get oil pressure ASAP on startup. A $3 oil filter can hold off this issue a little longer as well as reduce the odds that your engine develops the typical 4.0 tick.
X2. Ford must use only Motorcraft In critical parts
Thanks immensely for these videos you made on the Ford V6 4L . I have a Ford Ranger XLT and wanted to change out my timing chains and sprockets. The dealership here, wanted a arm and leg to have it done indeed. With the help of your very informative and precise steps to do this , made it possible for me to do it without any mistakes. thanks once again. I have had my Ford Ranger for many years and will never part with it . Even though its very thirsty, have always enjoyed the Ford. In our language , I have a sticker at the back of the Bakkie that reads ""Altyd Dors soos ekke vir Brannas"". Regards Alien.
Hands down best instructional video on these trucks in general that I’ve seen.
This engine is a pain the neck to fix, I took this project as a learning experience. After the Ford expert mentioned that this V6 is one of the most complicated engines in the ford family I felt like I can tackle any ford engine now. 💪
This engine is a joke of over complication. Its like they took a push rod engine and converted it to a OHC engine...
@@jockosboy17 This engine actually IS a converted pushrod engine. The pushrod 4.0 used in older Explorers and Rangers was converted to this.
Ford should have just left well enough alone, the original OHV 4.0 was a good engine and was fairly reliable, no clue why they would turn it into this monstrosity.
They needed an engine with more power and more torque than the OHV engine but didn't want to spend the money to develop a new engine so they slapped a new set of heads on an old engine and called it a day. Why they went with a jackshaft and a rear timing cassette vs running it all off the front of the engine I doubt I will ever know. These engines sure run smooth and made good power and torque for their day but you've got to watch out for their timing system and that plastic thermostat housing.
Probably because running it all off the front like the Duratec Engine would have required a new block design and they were too cheap to do that at the time. They could have just gone with the 4.2 like they had for the V6 option on the F150. I see more Explorers and even some Rangers in the Junk Yard with these SOHC 4.0's people just didn't wanna fix em or couldn't.
Dude am getting ready to my timing chains thank u so much..I've seen your videos for 1 year 02 ford explorer 365,000 miles, finally I have the cohones to do it thanks to u...
Hard lesson learned by me on this job. First one I did quoted way low, not realizing the motor had to come out.
Another great video Brian!
i have 4.0l that has balance shaft gears broke, can i take em out n leave em out its going into a two wheel drive explorer
Just for fun I bought a 2X4 4.0 ranger 5 spd, just to find out what it was like. Hot Rod! Only 75,000 miles and now rattling on cold start up. I was concerned that it needed timing done, but, after exploring these various videos on the subject, realized that only the tensioners needed replacing. Ford says replace them every 70,000, or face destruction.
-- The engine feels great but is a gas pig even with oversize tires and driving it like a baby. I would never buy one of these with high miles!
-- I have been using the flood start method: push gas peddle to floor and crank for about 4 seconds to build oil pressure before releasing. No more cold start rattle. AS soon I as I get over this COVID, I will change out the tensioners. Thank U covid for giving me the time to cruise the internet streets.
-- If U have death rattle besides the cold start up...>> decide if U want to spend the $$$ and take the risks of the job failing....lots of bad mechanics out there looking to gain experience at YOUR cost! this is definitely an area for EXPERIENCE!
--- If U decide to repair, do NOT buy aftermarket chinese parts. Get genuine FORD parts!! Lots of fake parts out there: Rock Auto is NOT your friend. Penny wise pound foolish applies.
Great Video. Your step by step process with tips are invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to make video.
You are second to none sir , outstanding
Wow! Thank you for your 4 part series on timing a 4.0 SOHC. I've been searching everything out there and there are many decent clips to put together none are as good as your part 1 and 2. I thought I had mine timed, I rotated it clockwise a few turns and it got real hard to keep rotating. I should have backed it off and undid all my work and began again. Instead, I forced it to rotate and I broke the rear jackshaft gear in three pieces. That I found out after hours of investigation. I didn't know if I had a piston or rod binding somewhere, maybe there were still large pieces of nylon chain guide somewhere out of sight. I was able to see I had the wrong gear installed to replace the broken rear j shaft gear. So please get part 3 uploaded. I really could use the info. I am ready to test by rotating again, I'm stalling. Thank you for your detailed work. This DIY-er sincerely apprecieates it.
I realize I know nothing about cars compared to this man Great Video
This rabbit hole goes deep
Absolutely the best video and instructions for Ford products. Job we'll done Brian.
Absolutely the best videos! I have this engine in my 2006 Land Rover LR3. The front left side timing chain was broken when I bought it. It was cheap so I took the chance.
For those trying to replace camshaft roller followers only (rocker arms) keep in mind that the tool recommended in the description needs to be hammered into two pieces before it will fit into the tight areas surrounding most of the springs (like his description says). Also the forks are an extremely tight fit over the cam lobes so be prepared to wiggle!
Awesome video! Noone else provides such detail !
Why do they have to be changed?
I love your videos.I learn so much about Ford's,"I love Fords".
Thank you.
WOW!! Brian that's one BIG ASS job!
Took me about a month to fix my timing system. Although I only fixed the left cassette keeping the engine in the truck . Did all this after work each day. Big time delay after breaking a valve cover bolt in the block and needing to order sharper bits to remove a broken bolt remover in the block also .
I'm watching all parts to this Brian, thank you for you're help and shared knowledge👍😊
I thought about. Now I'm convinced to sell the POS. Thanks
My 2003 didn't have an EGR valve or tube from the factory, woo hoo! Thanks for the great 4-part series.
This series are the best videos I've ever watched I think.. super clear with the right amount of explanations. Well done and thank you!
I'll stick with the old Windsor style Ford engines, that 4.0L looks like a nightmare
I used to repair Italian and British autos of the 1950's to the 1980's and I thought some of those engines were built funny but that 4.0L V6 is a different animal. I'll bet you had a time with your first 4.0L V6. But you know now. It's interesting to see how engineers design engines and how they find weird ways to put something together. Looking forward to the final videos of this series.
Why does the 4x4 4.0 have the balance shaft but the 4x2 doesn't?
Patrick Kozal I’m guessing it’s similar to why any 4 cylinder bigger than 2.0L has one is for vibration, thinking possibly the transfer case might cause it.
Because Ford
I have a 2wd explorer 2006 and it has a balance shaft.
My 05 mustang also has a balance shaft
Patrick Kozal my 2wd Explorer(2003)has the balance shaft too.
I suggest that you change the channel name from "FordTechMakuloco" to "The Engine Surgeon".Bravo!
What moron you have to be to give a thumb down to such an amazing helpful and really well made clip??? Big thanks to FordTechMakuloco you made my day!
O know right. This guy goes into great detail. He amazing
He probably owns a Chevy
It wasn't the guy or the presentation. It's the turkey of an engine.
@@weareone7315 Yes he,s like over 95 years old & tried to run me off the road . Ford tech guy helped me a lot .
Nice!! What a unique engine!! Thanks for showing it to us.
Wow ! You are so knowledgeable and present yourself and information SO well. You should be teaching future TECHS at the Community College level. You have such natural ability and young students need your coaching, teaching, and knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge through your terrific videos.
I'm amazed how clean the engine is. The oil this owner used did a great job. I'm using Mobil 1 extended performance in my F150 2.7 Ecoboost. I heard Pennzoil ultra is a very good choice.
If a Ford tech says it's a Bear...its impossible for a DYI....great video again
I did "one" of these back in the day, it was in an explorer.. what a freakin nightmare.. had to buy special tools to time the stupid thing to put it back together.. unless Brian shows us some other way in the next video of how to time it.. the gears all just spin willy nilly on the shafts, no indexing pins or anything..
Douglas Fox yup total of five chains, I wouldn't chance it without the entire timing kit.
Thank you for this series of videos on this engine it has helped me tremendously.
I got to say I have two Ford ranger is that both have the 4 L V6 in them and I just had a cam chain issues tonight for the very first time at 309,000 miles. These engines are not easy to work on but as much as I use my little trucks they have been incredibly dependable. I would buy another one without hesitation.
Give me a 4.6 v8 that's Bullet PROOF and last forever Brian...bettrr yet, old 302
The other HUGE benefit of the 4.6 is everything is right on the front of this motor like it should be.
What in the hell did they really gain with all of this engineering, definitely wasn't keeping cost down, that engine has at least a dozen extra parts than necessary for basic engine operation. Fuel economy? How much is wasted dragging along all of the extra components? Plus the amount of work to service this nightmare! If this thing got 40mpg and made 300hp it would be worth all of the insanity inside. So glad I'm a GM guy, i'll slap a set of intake gaskets and ignition components on an old Vortec 4.3 in an afternoon and be good for another 100k. Thank you for making these videos, I'm a GM mechanic, i rarely work on Fords, but this stuff is interesting and oddly satisfying to watch for some reason, i guess its the insanely over-complicated re-invention of the wheel, I also like the Powerstroke Help guy too, Why do people keep buying those things?
Ok, rant over.....sorry i blew up guys.....
We're all glad you're a GM guy too...it's apparently far to complicated for you to understand.
Wow what a nightmare of an engine.
So glad my exploder has the 4.6L
It had the startup rattle too, so I changed the timing chains/guides/tensioners and it was a breeze compared to this.
and chains on the 4.6 aren't that easy
No freakin way! I'm getting a different truck rather than going through all this.
I'm doin it!
@@jpegjake me too... kinda regretting the decision. Lol.
@Huntinfunatic same. Although I'd rather do the 3.0 swap
I have an 1997 Ford Explorer XLT with this issue. Runs like a top though! Still very reliable.
Thanks for your great videos! You have saved us a lot of time and trouble.
One question to viewers or FordTechMakuloco.....
While the engine is removed.....
Would you replace the head gaskets?
1998 Explorer w/ 148,000 miles.
No signs of leak....but while I have easy access.....
Outstanding video. I could have used this a couple of years ago. I ended up selling my Ranger as is.
Hope you at least let people know about the issue instead of hiding it like every single fucking used car dealership in the USA will do 🤣
Make sure to ONLY USE OEM timing kits. Took me 3 times to figure this out.
Lots of fake Chinese made parts out there. Beware
It just came to me like a better idea! Let's put the cam in the block and use pushrods. MAYBE after 400,000 miles we can put a new chain in and drive on. You are a great mechanic, wish we had one like you in my area.
Yeah it's to bad. Up until 2001 the were an ohv motor. I did drive one of these motors to 200k mi and sold it still running, my buddy has one that's near 300k and still going, gotta b luck of the draw with these things..?
Thanks for the video! I am curious about the part where you remove the sprocket bolts from the cams. Can I use an impact, or is that a dangerous move? This is my first time attempting a rebuild and it’s the only vehicle I have so I’m trying not to mess up. Thank you for your help! It’s guys like you than make help the little guy survive!
Thank you so much for these videos. Just wondering what is the purpose of removing the roller followers?
Yeah me too I'll skip that step
Basically to time the right head without bending any valves. My valves were fine, so I left the LEFT at TDC with rollers in, but removed the RIGHT ones because the timing is set NOT at TDC on the right side.
Great tips Brian 👍
Hello Brian, I appreciate you are sharing your knowledge with us, I have a question for you, when you have a damage on the timing chain like the one mentioned on the video, is this not causing a damage on the valves or on the pistons that have to be checked before you proceed on replacing the timing cassettes? Thank you Brian, I hope you can help me with my question.
I was going to ask the same question. Mine jump time and was wondering if he knew the internal integrity of this before he did the job
In the middle of a major tune-up this week--rough idle for a week. Has over 239,000 miles (1994 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, V6 XL, 5-speed). Mainly a `Do-it-yourself guy' with the Ranger since buying it in 1995. Have had more issues with the Clutch (slave cylinder) over the years than the engine. Now that the truck is 27 yrs old, I'm not certain if it is worth an over-haul/rebuild at this time. Electric Wires and vacuum hoses are showing wear and the engine mounts are deteriorating. Still has the original water pump, radiator, and AC system. Almost everything else has been replaced--except for the internal parts (like the timing chain, etc). I wonder how long it will last. Hopefully, till I can find a nice `4-banger' to commute to work and back.
Para sacar las guias debes soltar los tornillos laterales torx para que así salga facil la guia...
Thanks for the great video! Awesome detail and explained extremely well.
Question, if I am going to attempt this, how can one tell if the valves did not smack the top of the piston heads if the motor jumped time?
I wonder why Ford only put a balancer in the 4x4s? Great content btw. Keep it up
Fantastic information.
I guess the head gaskets and valves etc will last another life?
In general yes, I have never seen head gasket or valving issues on the 4.0l SOHC in my career at Ford.
Is this engine a interference engine? Timing jumped on my mercury mountaineer it cranks over and sounds like it has no compression.
Excellent video. all of your videos are so clear and precise. very easy to follow. Thanks much for your time.👍
Where did you get the timing chain kit from? I know on one of your videos you said to go with Ford internal engine parts
If it’s still in time and we are just in doing timing do we need to actually remove the cam shafts
Mr . Can be opened the oil passages on this engine ? Or doesn’t recommend and why ? You the best teacher ! Tanks for help us !
Awesome video and thank you for sharing your knowledge with others!
Thank you for taken the time and detailing your video(s).
At this point you might as well call for an entire rebuild, to service this engine you have to take almost the entire engine apart, you are only a couple head gaskets, a few seals and a set of bearings away from an entire engine rebuild, I may as well do it, what a pain this little V6 is..... I'll stick with a 3.0 liter next time
I was thinking crate engine?
Yeah because oil pump failure on the 3.0 is so much easier to deal with.
When my the Left cassette went on my 2008 I just replaced the engine. They seemed to be a dime a dozen in my area at the time. Got a used two years newer whole engine for $400. Then traded the ranger in for a F150.
Me Too! Worst design, too many chains, difficult access, excessive time to replace...
s3-media3.fl.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/tpXzG4iYdf6_6jJSIz0VfA/o.jpg There are worse!!!
Better off having a spare motor then doing all of this. I mean I had to pull heads and cams on one of these motors. Now I will have to remove the whole front just to time cams?
If might be important to mention, if the average person doesnt face a dampener puller its easiest to get a master set loaner from advance auto parts. It has the steel pins you used on the video to press off of the crank
Have you made any videos about maintenance or repair on Ford powered deploying running boards?
Yes I have a video shot I just need to post it.
Thank you for showing this nightmare! I can rebuilt a powerstroke engine in less time. Ford vehicle with this engine BIG no no.
Two Questions - 1.) What is the "Balance" Shaft for? and why would the 4-wheel drives need it but not the 2 wheel drives..., 2.) If you were this far into this engine, wouldn't it be wise to do the head gaskets? These engines are known for the failure of the head gaskets... That is why I'm watching this series; mine is toast on the driver's side. Thanks a ton for this, such a great job with the details, tips and tricks, etc. Awesome stuff! Clay
I read comments below and got answers from you and others... Thanks again!
I'm guessing the 4.2L was too well built,my F-150 has 461,000 and only had issues with intake gaskets.
A nice lady from church wanted her car fixed, friend and I took a look at it. Omg! I looked up the video and showed it to her. I believe god wants her to get a new car!
I junked a really nice fully loaded Explorer Sport because of this issue.
Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2011 Ranger 4x4 bought it at 165,000 (was a city vehicle so probably maintained) and now at 205,00. How often could you recommend changing the Plungers. Thank you.
Im glad Ford Australia stuck with your 60s platform I6 instead of this v6 nightmare. Give me one of our sohc or dohc barras anyday, now thats a cakewalk. Anyways, top efforts on your timing rebuild on Elm Street. Greetings, Brisbane Australia
I love working on these animals i like a good challenge.
What ever happened to the good ol days of one timing chain??.......LOL
That would be too easy and convenient lol... 1. The lone timing chain generally lasted the life of the engine, and 2. If it ever did go bad it could be changed with the engine still in the vehicle and without special tools..
@@muskokamike127 I've never messed with a 5.4 but i've heard alot about em and watched a few videos. I know some were infamous for blowing out spark plugs, the 3 Valve models I believe. Also the 4.6 did it too. Otherwise a good engine though, and certainly easier to retime than a SOHC 4.0 I have an 03 Ranger with a 3.0 Vulcan. I had to replace the heads when I bought the truck cause of bad valves causing a misfire, wasn't too bad a job did it mostly with hand tools and of course the engine IN the vehicle.. Can't get much simpler then those engines.
When do you set your timing? Before or after teardown
Why not use compressed air to blow the coolant out of the engine?
It makes a hug mess.
FordTechMakuloco I wish you hadve let him try it to find out lol.. Not fun to wear it all day
very good video, where do you get your kits ? from what I see, if the engine has compression , you don't have any head problems.
FordTechMakuloco, they say that the original MAP gas was banned in the USA, is that true?
Yes and MAP is now MAPP gas but still burns plenty hot.
oh, that's cool to know. i modified the original comment from MAP to MAPP. my bad.
Great Video. So I have an 04 Explorer with 4.0 and has the guide rattle. Runs strong and smooth. Can I just run it as is or am I on borrowed time?
jten1232 I changed just the tensioner and the rattling went away
I have the same truck. You're on borrowed time. Eventually it will start rattling like crazy all the time. I had the timing chains & components replaced.
If the rattle just started, you could try replacing the hydraulic tensioners. Buy the OEM Ford ones though, the aftermarket ones are junk.
Appreciate it. I replaced the tensioner already but still rattling. Loud at first start but better as it runs. Cant hear it while driving through rpm band but if I pull in almost to a stop you can hear a faint clicky sound.
Hey i screwed it up. i tried to do that and unfortunately i cross-threated the thread on the passenger side. I could put the tensioner in with a slight angle (down), do you think that would work? Or do you have an other idea?
I'm curious why you removed the rocker arms and cams? It doesn't look like they need to come off, so I'm wondering what I missed.
You want to inspect the cam journals and followers for wear by hand not while installed. Plus it is most accurate way to time a slip fit system like this.
What a pain in the ass. All of this to do a timing job. Damn engineers.
Leave it to the Germans. That is a German made engine. Some Audis have rear timing too.
Something something planned obsolescence. If you make it a big enough pain in the ass to work on or extraordinarily expensive to work on people will be more inclined to junk it and buy a new one. I'm positive this is their exact thought process when they draw up this stuff.
Floor-It-Duh I agree. Most people would just junk this. A lot of work for an old vehicle. Still cheaper than a new truck but still....🤔
Exactly, a very tough call to fix or replace. Just go to the local junkyard, that says it all. The OHV prior that it replaced was made so the average joe can work on it with some cheap tools. It cracks heads sometimes at high mileage but is a very easy (relatively ) job for a saturday. Apple products are the same way, they want it to work until they release the next model.
Floor-it-Duh As many of them as I see in the Junk Yards i'm inclined to agree on that. Shops charge a small fortune to do these jobs, and unless you have the equipment, skillset, and patience to work on these engines they just aren't worth fixing.
I am going through this right now. I have a 2004 ford sport trac. Mechanic said it's the timing chain. He says it might be better to get a rebuild engine as to just replacing the timing chain. He's says these engines are poorly built. This is nuts
Great video Brian! This guy must really love his Ranger. How much more cost effective is this versus a reman engine?
Few thousand cheaper, as you can see the rest of the engine is very very clean absolutely no reason to replace it.
When I had this done on my '06 it was about $2400 total but with Cloyes timing components vs. Ford and a reman engine alone was around $3500 plus the labor to swap it out. It's worth considering but if you're in a pinch for money and the rest of the engine is in good shape there's no reason to spend the extra money on a full engine--the bottom end of these engines will run 400k+ miles if you can keep the rest of the engine together around it.
how many miles are on this truck?
How did you turn the engine upside down? And can you do examine the oil pan without turning it upside down
Brian , how many timing chains are there on that engine?
3 main chains
May I ask why you remove the cams. I have done this on an early sohc and did not remove the cams
Bump. Please answer!
My question also..why
I have an '05 Ford Courier 4x2 with this engine. So much breakable plastic on these things! I'm halfway through replacing a bunch of gaskets...heads, rocker covers, water pump etc. I've only recently acquired the vehicle and it looks like it's been cooked at some point. The radiator and thermostat housing has been replaced but there are still water issues. When I lifted the plenum there were puddles of water in the v of the block. I'll also do the welch plugs seeing as I have access to them.
Toss it. Start with a good used engine. Even ford mechanics will tell U that if U have to replace heads and timing on A 4.0, it's not worth it
@@C0Y0TE5 Nah, mate. It's still fine. Got another hundred thousand or so left in it.
Thats alot of work i wonder what the cost of all that job to be done.
How much will this cost to for a professional to do!? thanks Brian
three thousand firm. Five thousand for total new engine.
Is it necessary to remove the cam rollers in every instance? And if so why? If doing this as PM? Is it necessary to set it to TDC? Could you not lock it in the position it is in? Our 2003 Explorer has 220,000 miles - we want to keep, she is mint. Once in there, do you recommend going further. Thank you for such informative videos.
I disassembled the engine in a different order than you is that going to be a problem? I took the tensoners and the chain off first before removing the cam followers?
just curious as WHY you have to remove the roller-followers/rocker arms??? I do not know better cause i have never done it, just trying to understand why. Thanks man i love your videos, have helped may alot!!!!
I am guessing because you removed the cams. If i am just changing the cassetes and chains/sprokets do i need to pull the cams????
Do you know either the part number or size of the balance shaft torx bolts? Accidentally stripped one, and now I need to order it? There are four. Appreciate you!!!
Learned a lot, thank you. Doing a rebuild soon. Fortunately I'll be doing EGR delete and installing a supercharger @9.5lbs.....including headers. Will buy a new ARP stud kit for the headers.
Miss my G54...sooo much easier to work on, even with the balance shafts.
Edit: Have a 1/2" Drive impact..should I add a 3/8" or 1/4"....hard to tell from the video. Otherwise? I'll buy both (ouch).
Question. Instead of removing dowels, could you just use bellhousing bolts, what bolts did you use to hook up sling to cylinder head? Thanks
I have a question my cousin has a 2006 Ford explorer 4*4 are the motors the same all the way up to the 2010 because I was watching you do the timing because apparently my cousin's timing chain broke so I was just watching to get an idea of how much work is involved