It was a bigger challenge than i imagine..... weeks of study and reasearch.... dry "test fit" ....dry assambling tests..... it was interesting.... abd i hope it hold pressure test..... Thanks friend.... stay healthy!!!
I've been waiting for the boiler video for a long time and I'm not disappointed. I started my own loco following your first videos. Once again congratulations. Your work is beautiful and inspiring. I am continuing my loco project and it is partly thanks to you. well done !
Ganz große Klasse - so eine aufwändige Lötkonstruktion und so eine organisierte Vorgehensweise, prima! Die Taschenlötlampe von 1:52 steht auch noch auf meiner Wunschliste - bei größeren Werkstücken eine tolle Hilfe ;)
Danke Dir! Durchorganisiert muss sein. Ich mag keine Improvisation in schmutzigen oder chaotischen Werkstätten.... für mich ist das Genuss.... freizeit.... Ich-Zeit.... da muss Ordnung sein... Saubere Arbeit resultiert aus sauberer Vorgehensweise. Ich beobachte das aber bei deinen Videos auch! Und ich denke wir sind uns einig, das ordung und Hingabe eine Homage and die Nostalgie sind.... Bleib gesund!!! Grüße
The steam dome looks to be brass. If so, for anyone reading this, brass suffors dezincification and it fails. Bronze is acceptable but never brass on any bushing, or brazed component of a boiler
In this case, i change the parts to bronze, because of the copper boiler! but if you use a brass boiler, than you can use brass bushings! The problem with brass is only in conection to copper parts. Electrolysis does the dezincification! Many steam models come in brass, but only when they also use only brass for boilers and more!
Wow Chris, your skills are A1 top mate! what a fantastic piece of work, and a superb video, loved every moment, I envy your skill and patience, top drawer!
Hey Ade.... Thanks so much! I appreciate such words from a real Professional like you.... i'm just a beginner.... and you are one of the top five.... that teach me with his videos here on youtube with your passion! Thanks to you! Stay healthy!!!
Thanjs for your comment. I use different Types of flux. First i use a Coat of flux from here: www.bengs-modellbau.de/werkzeug/loetzubehoer/flussmittel-fuer-silberlot But to ensure good connection and solder flow, i use (when boiler making) flux coatet solder, for industrial use. Like that one.... www.amazon.de/St%C3%BCck-Silberlotst%C3%A4be-Silberlot-bors%C3%A4urefrei-flussmittelumh%C3%BCllt/dp/B07H8ZMVD8/ref=asc_df_B07H8ZMVD8/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=354652109717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2972130280076031411&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044810&hvtargid=pla-809107077577&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77271323651&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=354652109717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2972130280076031411&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044810&hvtargid=pla-809107077577
I must ask, I don't quite understand the arrangement of the flues, why do you both have a pair of large flues (where the burners are placed?) and those smaller flues?
The small flues in the burner section get in direct contact with the flames over the burner, so they act like a super-heater. The larger ones going from the burner through the boiler, as regular smoke pipes, so that the heat from the burner goes through the boiler and through the water. If you need plans for, just send me a PM to dreamsteam@gmx.de
I download the prints for this project. i am in the USA and i was wondering what size of copper tub did you use?? The print calls for a 63 mm.. for the life me, I am trying to find one. the only thing I came find is 2.625 heavy wall tube..
@@dreamsteam8272 Ok cool so in The USA the 2.625 is nominal 2.5" O.D with a .083 Wall, so that tube will work for the boiler. I believe.. Thank You. 2mm wall is .078" Thank you for your help and you do a awesome job doing it by hand. I am going to cheat and use waterjet, mills and lathes.. lol I am a machinist so i have access to all of that equipment..
That depends on the job to be done. I don't have a special brand. The only important thing is if you heat components several times, that you start with a solder that melts at around 700-800 degrees. If you have to heat the component again in a further step, use a solder with a melting point of 500-600 degrees. This way you work back the number of steps so that areas that have already been soldered do not open again.
Hallo Bernd. Ich verwende bei mehreren Lötvorgängen an einem Teil, stufenlote. Das heißt, das erste Lot hat eine Arbeitstemperatur von 700-800 Grad. Für die Grundstruktur. Die Folgelote haben 600-700 Grad. Das sorgt für problemlose stufenlotgänge, so daß die zuvor gelötete Struktur nicht schmilzt Hauptsächlich kommt daher 1,5mm x 500mm AF 319XL L-Ag 34 Sn zur Anwendung. Mit einem Silberanteil von 55 %
hi DS Very nicely done, whats the pickling fluid in the bottles you used!! you've been working extremely hard behind the scenes there, i can appreciate how much involvement there was there to produce such a video. thanks for sharing. see you next time regards mr f
Thanks MF !!! Are you reveal from all the pipes....???? 😂😂 Hope your healthy as well.... and i think.... i can smell the coal-fire in your loco rising..... 😉 It just concentrate Vinegar with salt. 3 liter Vinegar and a cup of salt.... and that result came up in 20 minutes.... All you have seen.... in real time.... it took me about 3 Weeks working.... prepairing, researching, and building parts... you know better.... serval month.... 😉 Stay healthy friend! Looking forward to your next installation!
Trier? Nicht dein Ernst.... selbst lange da gewohnt, und hab Verwandtschaft da. Komme aus Gerolstein. Die Schamottsteine sind aus dem Baumarkt, und die halbrunden habe ich mit einem Steckdosenbohrer hergestellt. Grüße aus der Eifel
Looks like you’ve got a well made boiler my friend. I think the bulk of the hard work is behind you now. Are we going to see it running on air next week?
Danke, Wenn die teile leicht zu erhitzen sind, (also überwiegend bei kleinen teilen, wie das erste teil im Video z.b.) Dann benutze ich herkömmliches hartlot Typ: L-AG 45 Länge: 500 mm Ø 1,50 mm Schmelztemp. ca. 600 Bei den Großen Bauteilen, die lang erhitzt werden müssen, und wo deswegen das herkömmliche Flussmittel in der Aufheizphase verbrennt oder stark verrust, benutze ich Silber hartlot, welcher mit flussmittel ummantelt ist. Der ist vom Preis ähnlich, lötet sich weit besser, ist aber schwierig zu reinigen. Da er auch wie ich finde, etwas zu dick ummantelt ist, gibt er zuviel ab, weshalb er nichts für kleine präzisionsteile ist.
It will be tested. but currently waiting for a new air compressor ... 😉 (and ..... when I say wait .... then I mean, I haven't dared to ask my wife if I can buy one .....). 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Thanks... stay healthy!
@@dreamsteam8272 You don't need an air compressor. Using air to test a boiler is very dangerous. Because air is compressible (elastic) and stores energy. You have to use water. A foot pump must be used for cars. 1 - Fill the boiler with water 2 - Immerse the pump in a basin full of water. The pressure will depend directly on the force on the pump. No residual energy as with air. There are tutorials on the internet. you have to be careful!
Hey, I cant recommend to use one of the loco style, to Operate steam Engines (Stationary) If you need plans for Boilers that used in stationary Engines, let me kniw. I can Send you a lot. In DIN A 3 PDF, all Metric
Das Salz beschleunigt die Reinigung extrem... in reinem Essig braucht der Kessel ca. 6 Stunden.... mit Salz nur etwa 20 minuten. Ich habe den Trick von einem Koch der mit kupfertöpfen arbeitet. Mach ein stück kupfer nass und mache ein salzhäufchen darauf. Spül es nach 20 sekunden ab und du siehst eine blanke neue oberfläche wo das salz lag.... aber gut abspülen... das hört sonst nicht auf und das Kupfer wird grün!!!!!
@@dreamsteam8272Hallo Chris, mein Tipp..... nimm Zitronensäure (Pulver) , das gibts im Säurefachhandel im Eimer, das ist relativ günstig, (kann man auch zum Kaffeemaschine entkalken nehmen/also braucht man auch anderweitig😉) säure ansetzen, dann mach die ganze "Suppe" mit einem Tauchsieder warm. Wirst dich wundern um wie viel schneller das geht. So kannst du mehrmals am Tag hintereinander löten ohne zu lange Wartezeit. Beste Grüße und weiter so👍😊
@@dreamsteam8272 As a boiler inspector I have had to fail so many boilers because sadly they have worked to old drawings and whilst the designs were great they used brass for bushes. Your work is nice by the way.
Head over to community and Vote for the next upcoming project video series.... 😉! Vote! 👌👍🏻
1:52 that scene with the raptor engine was genius.
I really enjoy your sense of humor!
This is a really fantastic build and each video is so well put together and enjoyable to watch (and learn)! Thank you!
Fantastic work and a very enjoyable video up to date with the build now and it has been a pleasure to watch your work on the engine
It was a bigger challenge than i imagine..... weeks of study and reasearch.... dry "test fit" ....dry assambling tests..... it was interesting.... abd i hope it hold pressure test.....
Thanks friend.... stay healthy!!!
Fantastic built❤
I've been waiting for the boiler video for a long time and I'm not disappointed. I started my own loco following your first videos. Once again congratulations. Your work is beautiful and inspiring. I am continuing my loco project and it is partly thanks to you. well done !
Thanks Michel.... thats what it is all about.... inspiration! You will make it!!!
Perfect handcrafted ....U r amazing....GBU
Wow that was fantastic.
2:00 just like every good workshop
Nice silver solder work.
It was sometimes easyer as i thought.... and sometimes harder!
Thanks Steve ! Stay healthy!
Wow... This is awesome!!!
Nice work Chris...
well done!
and good luck with the test 👍
look forward to the loco running under it's own steam
Damn you're good. Holy schnikes!
I'll try so.... 😅
Thanks! 😊
Beautiful work.
Ganz große Klasse - so eine aufwändige Lötkonstruktion und so eine organisierte Vorgehensweise, prima!
Die Taschenlötlampe von 1:52 steht auch noch auf meiner Wunschliste - bei größeren Werkstücken eine tolle Hilfe ;)
Danke Dir! Durchorganisiert muss sein. Ich mag keine Improvisation in schmutzigen oder chaotischen Werkstätten.... für mich ist das Genuss.... freizeit.... Ich-Zeit.... da muss Ordnung sein... Saubere Arbeit resultiert aus sauberer Vorgehensweise. Ich beobachte das aber bei deinen Videos auch! Und ich denke wir sind uns einig, das ordung und Hingabe eine Homage and die Nostalgie sind....
Bleib gesund!!! Grüße
Bom trabalho!
The steam dome looks to be brass. If so, for anyone reading this, brass suffors dezincification and it fails. Bronze is acceptable but never brass on any bushing, or brazed component of a boiler
In this case, i change the parts to bronze, because of the copper boiler! but if you use a brass boiler, than you can use brass bushings! The problem with brass is only in conection to copper parts. Electrolysis does the dezincification!
Many steam models come in brass, but only when they also use only brass for boilers and more!
Nice work, Chris!
Masterclass, top.
looking great!
Thanks Emma.....! 😊😘 Stay healthy!!!!
Wow Chris, your skills are A1 top mate! what a fantastic piece of work, and a superb video, loved every moment, I envy your skill and patience, top drawer!
Hey Ade.... Thanks so much! I appreciate such words from a real Professional like you.... i'm just a beginner.... and you are one of the top five.... that teach me with his videos here on youtube with your passion! Thanks to you! Stay healthy!!!
You lucky dog you..... Great work!
Oh.... its a long way ahead...... but its getting shorter.....
@@dreamsteam8272 Boom! Can’t wait
@@TRAINBUILDER 3:33 ...... 😉😉😉😉.... but still no underpants.... 🤣🤣🤣😎
@@dreamsteam8272 I’m kind of kinky..... 😎
@@TRAINBUILDER oh TB....
" i just want to start...... a Flame in your heart....." 😉😂
Lokking forward to your next upload!
What flux did you use? Congratulations nice work
Thanjs for your comment. I use different Types of flux.
First i use a Coat of flux from here:
www.bengs-modellbau.de/werkzeug/loetzubehoer/flussmittel-fuer-silberlot
But to ensure good connection and solder flow, i use (when boiler making) flux coatet solder, for industrial use.
Like that one....
www.amazon.de/St%C3%BCck-Silberlotst%C3%A4be-Silberlot-bors%C3%A4urefrei-flussmittelumh%C3%BCllt/dp/B07H8ZMVD8/ref=asc_df_B07H8ZMVD8/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=354652109717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2972130280076031411&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044810&hvtargid=pla-809107077577&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77271323651&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=354652109717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2972130280076031411&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044810&hvtargid=pla-809107077577
@@dreamsteam8272 thanks
Hola . Con que material soldas?
hola, no gracias! soy alérgico a los crustáceos,
intente nuevamente en ingles 😊
I must ask, I don't quite understand the arrangement of the flues, why do you both have a pair of large flues (where the burners are placed?) and those smaller flues?
The small flues in the burner section get in direct contact with the flames over the burner, so they act like a super-heater. The larger ones going from the burner through the boiler, as regular smoke pipes, so that the heat from the burner goes through the boiler and through the water. If you need plans for, just send me a PM to dreamsteam@gmx.de
What flux are you using
I download the prints for this project. i am in the USA and i was wondering what size of copper tub did you use?? The print calls for a 63 mm.. for the life me, I am trying to find one. the only thing I came find is 2.625 heavy wall tube..
I am in Germany.... in the metric system the next tube is 64 mm or 62mm
I used 62 x 2 mm (2mm wall thickness)
@@dreamsteam8272 Ok cool so in The USA the 2.625 is nominal 2.5" O.D with a .083 Wall, so that tube will work for the boiler. I believe.. Thank You. 2mm wall is .078" Thank you for your help and you do a awesome job doing it by hand. I am going to cheat and use waterjet, mills and lathes.. lol I am a machinist so i have access to all of that equipment..
What type or brand of silver solder did you use?
That depends on the job to be done. I don't have a special brand. The only important thing is if you heat components several times, that you start with a solder that melts at around 700-800 degrees. If you have to heat the component again in a further step, use a solder with a melting point of 500-600 degrees. This way you work back the number of steps so that areas that have already been soldered do not open again.
Welches Silberlot haben Sie benutzt mit wieviel Silberanteil?
Hallo Bernd.
Ich verwende bei mehreren Lötvorgängen an einem Teil, stufenlote. Das heißt, das erste Lot hat eine Arbeitstemperatur von 700-800 Grad. Für die Grundstruktur. Die Folgelote haben 600-700 Grad. Das sorgt für problemlose stufenlotgänge, so daß die zuvor gelötete Struktur nicht schmilzt
Hauptsächlich kommt daher 1,5mm x 500mm AF 319XL L-Ag 34 Sn zur Anwendung. Mit einem Silberanteil von 55 %
@@dreamsteam8272danke dir 👍
hi DS
Very nicely done, whats the pickling fluid in the bottles you used!!
you've been working extremely hard behind the scenes there, i can appreciate how much involvement there was there to produce such a video.
thanks for sharing.
see you next time
regards
mr f
Thanks MF !!! Are you reveal from all the pipes....???? 😂😂
Hope your healthy as well.... and i think.... i can smell the coal-fire in your loco rising..... 😉
It just concentrate Vinegar with salt. 3 liter Vinegar and a cup of salt.... and that result came up in 20 minutes....
All you have seen.... in real time.... it took me about 3 Weeks working.... prepairing, researching, and building parts... you know better.... serval month.... 😉
Stay healthy friend! Looking forward to your next installation!
Hallo, unglaubliche Perfektion und Geduld! Hut ab!! Woher diese Schamottsteine mit dem runden Ausschnitt? Und die anderen? Grüße aus Trier, Pawel
Trier? Nicht dein Ernst.... selbst lange da gewohnt, und hab Verwandtschaft da. Komme aus Gerolstein.
Die Schamottsteine sind aus dem Baumarkt, und die halbrunden habe ich mit einem Steckdosenbohrer hergestellt.
Grüße aus der Eifel
I was wondering, could you give me that skill now! Thx..
Great
Looks like you’ve got a well made boiler my friend. I think the bulk of the hard work is behind you now. Are we going to see it running on air next week?
Not next week.... there ar a lot of things on my list.... smokebox.... burner...... but... soon as well
Saubere Arbeit. Mit welchem Lot arbeitest du?
Danke,
Wenn die teile leicht zu erhitzen sind, (also überwiegend bei kleinen teilen, wie das erste teil im Video z.b.)
Dann benutze ich herkömmliches hartlot Typ: L-AG 45
Länge: 500 mm
Ø 1,50 mm
Schmelztemp. ca. 600
Bei den Großen Bauteilen, die lang erhitzt werden müssen, und wo deswegen das herkömmliche Flussmittel in der Aufheizphase verbrennt oder stark verrust, benutze ich Silber hartlot, welcher mit flussmittel ummantelt ist. Der ist vom Preis ähnlich, lötet sich weit besser, ist aber schwierig zu reinigen. Da er auch wie ich finde, etwas zu dick ummantelt ist, gibt er zuviel ab, weshalb er nichts für kleine präzisionsteile ist.
You gonna hydro the build or just cross your fingers and light fires?
A great bit of kit there, master.
It will be tested. but currently waiting for a new air compressor ... 😉 (and ..... when I say wait .... then I mean, I haven't dared to ask my wife if I can buy one .....). 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks... stay healthy!
@@dreamsteam8272 You don't need an air compressor. Using air to test a boiler is very dangerous. Because air is compressible (elastic) and stores energy. You have to use water. A foot pump must be used for cars. 1 - Fill the boiler with water 2 - Immerse the pump in a basin full of water. The pressure will depend directly on the force on the pump. No residual energy as with air. There are tutorials on the internet. you have to be careful!
@@michellambert1821 thanks for the advice!!!!!
Silver soldering- simple rule, the job must be hot enough to melt the solder.
I’m wanting to build or buy one just like this, so I can operate my steam engine’s !!
Hey,
I cant recommend to use one of the loco style, to Operate steam Engines (Stationary)
If you need plans for Boilers that used in stationary Engines, let me kniw. I can Send you a lot. In DIN A 3 PDF, all Metric
I was wondering how you were getting on with the boiler, that looks a great job! Very well done. Interesting boiler design as well.
Thanks to your advice and videos, it came out better than expected... thanks Nigel!
1:57 nu kriegt der Meister endlich mal n`Gesicht!!
Can i purchase this
Sorry, i dont sell my project.
Leider finde ich den Bauplan auf der empfohlenen Seite nicht.
Ich kann ihn dir senden. Melde dich über dreamsteam@gmx.de
@@dreamsteam8272 Hallo Chris, das wäre nett. Schreib dir heute Abend. Danke .
👍👍😎👍👍
I would like a manufacturing drawing
Thank you
In the describtion
Wofür ist das Salz gedacht?
Das Salz beschleunigt die Reinigung extrem... in reinem Essig braucht der Kessel ca. 6 Stunden.... mit Salz nur etwa 20 minuten.
Ich habe den Trick von einem Koch der mit kupfertöpfen arbeitet. Mach ein stück kupfer nass und mache ein salzhäufchen darauf. Spül es nach 20 sekunden ab und du siehst eine blanke neue oberfläche wo das salz lag.... aber gut abspülen... das hört sonst nicht auf und das Kupfer wird grün!!!!!
@@dreamsteam8272Hallo Chris, mein Tipp..... nimm Zitronensäure (Pulver) , das gibts im Säurefachhandel im Eimer, das ist relativ günstig, (kann man auch zum Kaffeemaschine entkalken nehmen/also braucht man auch anderweitig😉) säure ansetzen, dann mach die ganze "Suppe" mit einem Tauchsieder warm.
Wirst dich wundern um wie viel schneller das geht. So kannst du mehrmals am Tag hintereinander löten ohne zu lange Wartezeit.
Beste Grüße und weiter so👍😊
I trust that wasn't brass you have used for bushes etc. As you would be open to dezincification and boiler failure through explosion.
You can watch the following Part, where i do an New one out of copper!
@@dreamsteam8272 As a boiler inspector I have had to fail so many boilers because sadly they have worked to old drawings and whilst the designs were great they used brass for bushes.
Your work is nice by the way.
A lot of what I would say was already said, so I'll just say what a lot of guys were thinking; why'd you pixilate the photo?
🤣🤣🤣🤣.... Thanks.... because...."always leave them waiting for more....!"
Great work. That's not an easy boiler to make.
No.... its a unusal complicatet design....
Thanks buddy
Nicht schlecht kannst ja wende magst bei mir rein schauen baue auch