Your Kester 44 solder is 63% tin, 37% lead (63/37), which is ideal, because it is the eutectic tin/lead alloy. You can see it on the label at 16:12 where it says "SN63PB37" (Sn = tin, Pb = lead).
I love your videos. Especially since you started your MK II rebuild at the same time as me. And you have pretty much been covering what I was going through as well. Great job man. Best wishes from Denmark.
This makes me feel so much better after my attempt at a cap kit on a polo 28. I had bad pin cushion on the sides and the cap kit fixed the problem, but it was just a pain to work on. I tested it out of the game (point blank) and I had fixed the original issue so I put the chassis back into the game and the screen would stop working until I removed it and then it started working again. I ended up paying a local tv repair center to look at it and it cost me loads for them to find the fault and fix it.
Great video thanks, you see a lot of comments on all forums (Klov, ukvac, jamma+, dragons lair, arcadecontrols, arcade otaku) saying "do a cap kit", easier said than done, but this up to date video was a great help. I like your methodical approach.
I just got a John's Arcade branded cap kit for a 25" NANAO medium rez monitor from Ian Kellog, and it brought it back to brilliant life! Super easy to install, came with the caps labelled and a cap map/schematic to install them! The best and easiest cap kits for sure!!!
Spooky, as i was watching this i was typing a message saying you should get a compressor to blow the dust off, then you mentioned it as I was gonna press send. lol
Just watched the whole thing! Definitely keeping this one on a list in case I ever need it for my UMK3 cab (same monitor). Very good video, especially the soldering tips. But, dude, chill :-D I seriously had to turn down the volume (I do have hyper-sensitive hearing though and no, it's not as useful as super heroes make it seem).
Personally I am a fan of your "strong audio". Makes it that much easier to listen to an episode on the way home from work with my cell lying on the center console, lol!
Great video. Yes, running the Hakko too hot can definitely cause lifted/delaminated traces. Setting it on 2 is pretty good for most 1 or 2 layer PCBs. I'd stay away from the $15 meters. They do usually work, but may have safety issues when you're working with higher voltages. There are some very good meters around 50 bucks, though. Huge props to Randy Fromm for creating all those monitor flowcharts, and to Ian Kellogg for using great low-ESR caps and great packaging/docs for his cap kits.
Hey john, test point six is outside of the HV cage, the b+ adjustment pot is inside the cage. The test point you are looking for is at the top of the chassis, closest to the tube, in the center. L106 I believe is the coil near the test point. Anyways, if you are in shutdown, unsolder the side of that coil closest to the fly back and raise the leg, and do the lightbulb trick featured on klov. If it blinks, you have a short on the left side or high voltage part of the chassis. If the bulb shines bright, your short is on the deflection side, or right side of the chassis.
I had a feeling the monitor had a B+ short before the cap kit went in. I also suspect that the HOT is shorted. It's a very common fault with all types of CRT monitor and TV. If it's not due to bad caps, the HOT can fail anyway simply due to age and the amount of work they do. Usually just a three-pin transistor on a heatsink / metal shielding close to the flyback trafo. They can often be tested in-circuit with the meter in diode mode, but sometimes need to be removed to get a proper reading. A dead short is normally obvious, but the design of the circuit might sometimes mean that you're measuring a winding of the flyback or another inductor, hence why the HOT may need to be removed before testing on some chassissisissss. The diode or Ohms range should only ever be used when you're sure the tube has been discharged, and that none of the larger caps have any charge on them.
awsome just capped the same monitor myself had several problems with this monitor fixed most of them with cap kit and flyback.but still have more problem hoping can get clues from you rebuild.
Cheap electrical tester tools can be found second hand at most pawn shops. Most don't have a clue which ones are more expensive they usually run about 20-30 bucks.
btw, it could potentially be bad for the rectifier diode built in to the flyback if you simply discharge the tube directly to Ground / chassis. Ideally, the tube should be discharged slowly via say a 1K power resistor (10 Watts or so).
Yeah, most modern-ish monitors often self-discharge (down to a point) if they've been off for a few hours, but even a small voltage on the tube can cause a high-current when discharged directly to the chassis. I've been told it's not a good idea on things like the Vectrex at least, but the current pulse from the larger colour CRTs would be pretty big too. Although, most of the charge is stored on the tube itself of course, there will be some stored in the flyback too. To be honest, I normally just use the screwdriver method too. lol That's normally after the set has been switched off for a couple of hours though.
I definitely heard the ticking. I think you'll have the monitor nailed early in the next vid. you seem really happy to be getting stuck in, in the garage. Getting that Tempest out of the way was the right thing to do pal.
Hey whats up, I have a similar proyect as you with mortal kombat II cab.. I have a challenger PCB that I want to convert to 3.1 revision. Did you know where I can find UG12 AND UJ12 (with 3.1 revision) to make this possible?
Haha, we have tons of these monitors in th UK. I just fixed one that was the HOT. Don't be fooled by what might look like a short across the HOT pads on the chassis when you take the old one out. If you t st B-C on the chassis it will look short but its just very low resistance. Check flyback visually for cracks. Replace HOT it will start the flyback - you may get arcing if the fly is bad. Usually from the anode wire at the flyback itself. Make yourself a mains socket with a kill switch for bench testing,
So FFR, the word "degauss" is named after a guy whose last name is Gauss, and that's pronounced "-gows" (as found in "Oww, that hurt!" after being shocked by a non-discharged tube), not like the word "gause." Oh, and 63/37 solder tends to melt a little bit more easily.
Fun fact: Bucky O'Hare was created by Larry Hama, who was the original writer for Marvel's GIJoe, as well as the bio cards that came on the action figures. Just about every classic aspect of Joe comes from Hama.
finally.............Friggin tempest i really don't like how close the neck board is to that metal bracket, you can also heat up one pin of the cap and rock it out. no extra tools needed
Never knew that. I have the same Polo John has here in my MK2, but it's been years since I capped it. It was my first cap kit, and still looks nice (knock on wood!). Knew my K7400 in my MAME cabinet didn't need an ISO.
Not all Kester 44 is 60/40, so the information you found online doesn't mean yours is 60/40. Some of it is 63/37, which is ideal, because it is the eutectic tin/lead alloy. The only reason 60/40 even exists is because it's slightly cheaper than 63/37, and it's "close enough" to 63/37. Also, Kester 44 isn't necessarily the best, but it is among the best, and you can't go wrong with it.
Aw crap John, I had meant to get Master Daniel Pesina's autograph for you at the show last weekend (He was Johnny Cage and all the masked ninjas in MK1 and MKII). I should have had him write, "To John's Arcade" or something. Sorry buddy, my bad! It would have been cool to send it to you since you are working on this...
Aw, big whoop; John here was within spitting distance of Steve Ritchie, voice of Shao Kahn, in his visit at Stern Pinball! Seriously! Look for the Stern Tour on this channel, it's video-documented and everything! :P I kid on the Big Whoop, awesome of you to meet Master Pesina; but yes, it happened! I also heard Pesina recently signed a couple Genesis copies of MKII for somedude, one of which is on eBay...
Took a look at the listing. Looks like he got it signed on Sunday, the second day of the Expo. Daniel was wearing purple that day. LOL. Got him to do an intro to my channel. I will post it once I finish editing the Retro World Expo vid. :-)
Also FFR, the Soldapullt is pronounced "sod-a-pult," much like the word "catapult;" not "sod-a-pull-it." And of course the capacitor kits don't come with all the caps; only the electrolytic ones.
When you clean the popcorn machine please also fix the wobbly table. I love your videos but I will soon be taking dramamine for motion sickness whilst I watch your email reading segments.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Common John you can do it. John builds a space bubble for computer space in his front yard LOL. make it happen. Get more coverage then the bubble boy :)
i could care less about saving scores since i don't play game for some number. saving progress was the only thing that mattered. this is why i don't care about xbox achievements and playstation trophys since they mean nothing to me too
Your Kester 44 solder is 63% tin, 37% lead (63/37), which is ideal, because it is the eutectic tin/lead alloy. You can see it on the label at 16:12 where it says "SN63PB37" (Sn = tin, Pb = lead).
I love your videos. Especially since you started your MK II rebuild at the same time as me. And you have pretty much been covering what I was going through as well. Great job man. Best wishes from Denmark.
This makes me feel so much better after my attempt at a cap kit on a polo 28. I had bad pin cushion on the sides and the cap kit fixed the problem, but it was just a pain to work on. I tested it out of the game (point blank) and I had fixed the original issue so I put the chassis back into the game and the screen would stop working until I removed it and then it started working again. I ended up paying a local tv repair center to look at it and it cost me loads for them to find the fault and fix it.
Great video thanks, you see a lot of comments on all forums (Klov, ukvac, jamma+, dragons lair, arcadecontrols, arcade otaku) saying "do a cap kit", easier said than done, but this up to date video was a great help. I like your methodical approach.
love your attention to detail with these projects
Looks like you found the problem. should be working soon. Can't wait to see a working Mortal Combat. Great video, thanks,john
Noooo! You spell it Mortal "Kombat"! How dare you! Lol!
I just got a John's Arcade branded cap kit for a 25" NANAO medium rez monitor from Ian Kellog, and it brought it back to brilliant life! Super easy to install, came with the caps labelled and a cap map/schematic to install them! The best and easiest cap kits for sure!!!
+evilash570 thanks?
+evilash570 I meant thanks!
As always, entertaining, and informative. Thanks John.
Spooky, as i was watching this i was typing a message saying you should get a compressor to blow the dust off, then you mentioned it as I was gonna press send. lol
Just watched the whole thing! Definitely keeping this one on a list in case I ever need it for my UMK3 cab (same monitor).
Very good video, especially the soldering tips. But, dude, chill :-D I seriously had to turn down the volume (I do have hyper-sensitive hearing though and no, it's not as useful as super heroes make it seem).
I mix my vids hot. I like good strong audio. :) Doesn't clip, though.
Personally I am a fan of your "strong audio". Makes it that much easier to listen to an episode on the way home from work with my cell lying on the center console, lol!
Ha. So Cool John. Thanks so much for sharing my pole position mame wheel in viewer mail. My wife in going to be tickled! You're the best!!
You did a great job with it!
@ 1:26:24 It sounds like you also need to see if new underwear came with your POLO monitor rebuild kit lmao :)
Hahaha, holy CRAP! I'm dyin' here! :-D
Great video. Yes, running the Hakko too hot can definitely cause lifted/delaminated traces. Setting it on 2 is pretty good for most 1 or 2 layer PCBs.
I'd stay away from the $15 meters. They do usually work, but may have safety issues when you're working with higher voltages. There are some very good meters around 50 bucks, though.
Huge props to Randy Fromm for creating all those monitor flowcharts, and to Ian Kellogg for using great low-ESR caps and great packaging/docs for his cap kits.
Has anyone ever compared you working on monitors to watching Bob Ross paint? Kind of get the same sort of vibe. Anyway, keep up the great work!
nightbirdds "Let's put in a happy little capacitor. Be sure to clean your sodapullt. Just beat the devil out of it!"
Hey john, test point six is outside of the HV cage, the b+ adjustment pot is inside the cage. The test point you are looking for is at the top of the chassis, closest to the tube, in the center. L106 I believe is the coil near the test point. Anyways, if you are in shutdown, unsolder the side of that coil closest to the fly back and raise the leg, and do the lightbulb trick featured on klov. If it blinks, you have a short on the left side or high voltage part of the chassis. If the bulb shines bright, your short is on the deflection side, or right side of the chassis.
I had a feeling the monitor had a B+ short before the cap kit went in.
I also suspect that the HOT is shorted. It's a very common fault with all types of CRT monitor and TV.
If it's not due to bad caps, the HOT can fail anyway simply due to age and the amount of work they do.
Usually just a three-pin transistor on a heatsink / metal shielding close to the flyback trafo.
They can often be tested in-circuit with the meter in diode mode, but sometimes need to be removed to get a proper reading.
A dead short is normally obvious, but the design of the circuit might sometimes mean that you're measuring a winding of the flyback or another inductor, hence why the HOT may need to be removed before testing on some chassissisissss.
The diode or Ohms range should only ever be used when you're sure the tube has been discharged, and that none of the larger caps have any charge on them.
awsome just capped the same monitor myself had several problems with this monitor fixed most of them with cap kit and flyback.but still have more problem hoping can get clues from you rebuild.
Great way to start a Monday off.
Your channel is awesome happy I found it
Cheap electrical tester tools can be found second hand at most pawn shops. Most don't have a clue which ones are more expensive they usually run about 20-30 bucks.
1:49 - Never grease that door, I wait for the squeak every time ; )
He kicks it open every time
btw, it could potentially be bad for the rectifier diode built in to the flyback if you simply discharge the tube directly to Ground / chassis.
Ideally, the tube should be discharged slowly via say a 1K power resistor (10 Watts or so).
Pretty sure the tube is self discharging and AFAIK that only applies to certain vector monitors (old B&Ws)
Yeah, most modern-ish monitors often self-discharge (down to a point) if they've been off for a few hours, but even a small voltage on the tube can cause a high-current when discharged directly to the chassis.
I've been told it's not a good idea on things like the Vectrex at least, but the current pulse from the larger colour CRTs would be pretty big too.
Although, most of the charge is stored on the tube itself of course, there will be some stored in the flyback too.
To be honest, I normally just use the screwdriver method too. lol
That's normally after the set has been switched off for a couple of hours though.
You can absolutely hear the ticking in the video, especially when you sat the camera down.
I definitely heard the ticking. I think you'll have the monitor nailed early in the next vid. you seem really happy to be getting stuck in, in the garage. Getting that Tempest out of the way was the right thing to do pal.
GroovyGameGear is where you can buy that steering wheel for Pole Position and the spinner for MAME.
Hey whats up, I have a similar proyect as you with mortal kombat II cab.. I have a challenger PCB that I want to convert to 3.1 revision. Did you know where I can find UG12 AND UJ12 (with 3.1 revision) to make this possible?
HobbyRoms.com can burn these
Thank you, I will check it out later.. right now Im watching your episode 4 of this :D
Haha, we have tons of these monitors in th UK. I just fixed one that was the HOT. Don't be fooled by what might look like a short across the HOT pads on the chassis when you take the old one out. If you t st B-C on the chassis it will look short but its just very low resistance. Check flyback visually for cracks. Replace HOT it will start the flyback - you may get arcing if the fly is bad. Usually from the anode wire at the flyback itself. Make yourself a mains socket with a kill switch for bench testing,
So FFR, the word "degauss" is named after a guy whose last name is Gauss, and that's pronounced "-gows" (as found in "Oww, that hurt!" after being shocked by a non-discharged tube), not like the word "gause."
Oh, and 63/37 solder tends to melt a little bit more easily.
Fun fact: Bucky O'Hare was created by Larry Hama, who was the original writer for Marvel's GIJoe, as well as the bio cards that came on the action figures. Just about every classic aspect of Joe comes from Hama.
working on the same monitor right now. needs new caps and flyback
Hi, does the monitor works with flat tube?
Can you test capacitors in circuit with the ESR meter?
no
finally.............Friggin tempest i really don't like how close the neck board is to that metal bracket, you can also heat up one pin of the cap and rock it out. no extra tools needed
for the purposes of the average arcade operator, a basic multimeter is probably fine. Just, make sure it has the continuity test
You can power a polo off the mains, you don't need to use an iso as the chassis has one built in.
are you sure? This would help me a lot :D I have 2 new NOS polo 20's Thanks!
The Polo has the SMPS providing the ISO. You can plug them right into mains.
Ah, thanks a lot Ian! I always thought a CRT needs an iso.
Yeah, I said that in the video. I was just being cautious.
Never knew that. I have the same Polo John has here in my MK2, but it's been years since I capped it. It was my first cap kit, and still looks nice (knock on wood!). Knew my K7400 in my MAME cabinet didn't need an ISO.
Good that you caught that, while you had most of the caps in correctly, you had a couple of them incorrectly. :P
Not all Kester 44 is 60/40, so the information you found online doesn't mean yours is 60/40. Some of it is 63/37, which is ideal, because it is the eutectic tin/lead alloy. The only reason 60/40 even exists is because it's slightly cheaper than 63/37, and it's "close enough" to 63/37.
Also, Kester 44 isn't necessarily the best, but it is among the best, and you can't go wrong with it.
Great Video John, As Always!
BTW Why Has The Description Got Smaller And Smaller And Smaller? There's Not Even One In This Description.
I need to add the description. Forgot!
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Ah Thanks, Thanks Also For Replying, I Appreciate It!
Aw crap John, I had meant to get Master Daniel Pesina's autograph for you at the show last weekend (He was Johnny Cage and all the masked ninjas in MK1 and MKII). I should have had him write, "To John's Arcade" or something. Sorry buddy, my bad! It would have been cool to send it to you since you are working on this...
Aw, big whoop; John here was within spitting distance of Steve Ritchie, voice of Shao Kahn, in his visit at Stern Pinball! Seriously! Look for the Stern Tour on this channel, it's video-documented and everything! :P
I kid on the Big Whoop, awesome of you to meet Master Pesina; but yes, it happened! I also heard Pesina recently signed a couple Genesis copies of MKII for somedude, one of which is on eBay...
Took a look at the listing. Looks like he got it signed on Sunday, the second day of the Expo. Daniel was wearing purple that day. LOL.
Got him to do an intro to my channel. I will post it once I finish editing the Retro World Expo vid. :-)
My Hantarex polo flickers bright then dark at cold for about 30mins??
Also FFR, the Soldapullt is pronounced "sod-a-pult," much like the word "catapult;" not "sod-a-pull-it."
And of course the capacitor kits don't come with all the caps; only the electrolytic ones.
When you clean the popcorn machine please also fix the wobbly table. I love your videos but I will soon be taking dramamine for motion sickness whilst I watch your email reading segments.
I did do a wobbly table fix video. :)
Okay that was creepy, right at 40:45 when he says 1:39 i looked at my time and it said 1:39 lol
Love this.
I just did a Hantarex polo 33 and you would hear a ticking it's a flyback.
i hate crt repair!!! but i love your videos!!!
Yes I hear the ticking sound, its sounds like a clock.
where's Tim link?
dude, working with these cathode tv's... doesnt that scare the shit out of you, jon?!? scares the hell out of me...
Those big blue caps need changing
Computer space needs to be displayed much better. Its a show piece .
+Tom Hertz I can't put it in my front yard. :)
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Common John you can do it. John builds a space bubble for computer space in his front yard LOL. make it happen. Get more coverage then the bubble boy :)
You probably could have had the hot changed in the time it took you to decide it was faulty. :)
You're probably right. :)
I had to put on headphones, but I hear it too.
Ahh, don't hose it down, because then it'll be... HOSED! :-D
JK!
Omg its a bomb, cut the red one its aways yhe red jonh
Mortal Kombat II Restore - Part 3
On his channel, last month
i could care less about saving scores since i don't play game for some number. saving progress was the only thing that mattered. this is why i don't care about xbox achievements and playstation trophys since they mean nothing to me too
Oh, good thing you DO still care a little, then!
it doesnt takes that long to wipe out that popcorn maachine
LOL
I always wash my monitors and chassis
18
crash!!
John did you fart at 1:26:24
I knew I wasn't the only one that caught thatLOL 1:26:24
LOL, yeah, Divine, and you smelled it! Hahaha!
dvine he pulled out a turtle lol