FINALLY! Let's get that POLO monitor fixed - replace HOT! Mortal Kombat II Restore Part #4
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
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How to replace the HOT on a Hantarex Polo 25" monitor. Also cover where and how to test the B+. HV Monitor shutdown and ticking sound. Viewer Mail.
I totally understand your comments regarding Golden Tee being a monster. I have a Golden Tee Live that I converted into MAME. That cab took 5 of us to get it into a van. Fortunately when I started to work on it, I realized that the entire cab was screwed together with security screws. I was able to disassemble the entire cab and carry to my basement piece by piece. I've never seen any other Golden Tees built this way.
For thru-hole components you're usually fine without additional flux, the flux in the solder wire will do the job. The additional flux comes in really handy when doing surface mount work, drag soldering in particular.
Don't get zapped John. Hopefully no more magic smoke like Tempest. Take you time bro. Love the vids.
John, that last flyer, "I remember when he couldn't keep his hands off me!" was for an SNK Neo Geo game. There were two versions of this flyer (that I remember). Each flyer had a different screen shot of a different game. One version has a screenshot from 'Cyber-Lip'. This flyer (the one you're holding) is for the SNK Neo Geo game, 'Ninja Combat'.
Good to see you working on something else
In one of the advertisements you were holding, that guy was playing Ninja Combat.
I had the flyback go on my 28" Hantarex Polo 2, it was pretty scary as there was a lot of smoke and loads of sparks coming from the flyback where it had cracked. I need to get around to fixing it as I currently have a spare Polo 2 in Time Crisis.
Hey John, I've noticed this on a few videos now. You should keep the desolder tip on the joint a bit longer before hitting the button. This will give more time for the solder to melt. Maybe hold it on then count a few seconds then hit the button. Really enjoy your videos.
Solder fluxes, except "no clean", should be cleaned from the board after soldering. They will, over time, eat away at the traces and provide a high resistive shorting path. Solder with just the flux that's in the solder core. Then clean with "flux off" spray and brush. No need on wire to wire connections as they have much more metal.
Good vid man, a great entertaining vid to check out with a beer after work, cheers man. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Riz!
About the customs question when briinging game acrosse the border. Me and a friend brought games from USA to Canada last year, from NA to Quebec to be precise. When you cross the border do not expect getting away without mentionning them, cause they are pretty obivous ;) So make sure to have proof of the discussion you had with vendor because they will ask you the amount paid for the item or they may try find it out on the net. Make sure to have either email on your phone or printed the ad from craiglist or klov or whatever. They want to know the amount paid and if you mention a very low price they may not believe you and will do further research. Be cooperative have a proof of the amount paid, a homemade receipt from the vendor may help too. I had one and they didn't ask any question. I bought a game for 200$USD and paid around 65$ CND of duty ont it.
Dear John, you wonderful well of knowledge. Arctic silver cooling paste is not conductive. And thx for the video upload. Much appreciated.
Is that right? I just remember reading something before to never use that stuff for these applications. There is something about it that it is just wrong.... :) OOPS.
Quote from Arctic silvers site:
"While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
However, I would deffo use the compound you used for this application. You can also get an adhesive version that sets solid when used properly. You had a heatsink fall off recently, you could re-adhere it with a lil bit of the adhesive type.
Some of the lesser expensive thermal pastes can be slightly conductive! Last I read, Arctic Silver is not though.
Hi John. Have you ever posted a video on troubleshooting or adjusting a b&w monitor (non-vector)? There seems to be a real lack of information out there on how to fix them.
much less of the back of your head. thanks John! PS: like the new cap, but the old one's better :-P I'm really looking forward to MK2 working!
Is there a reason to not just replace diodes if you have to take them out of circuit to test anyway? just for peace of mind that they won't go bad for a while? I'm new to the hobby so forgive me if it's a dumb question....just trying to learn as I get ready to troubleshoot a Daytona twin.
Love this video - I have a working 28" Polo and I'm buying all the spares up that I can to keep it running into the future. But - on my remote board, there is a jumper that will switch on the built in test generator - does this one not have that feature?
I don't know. I read about that in the manual. I'll have to check. Sounds cool!
Hey John, thanks for answering my questions re: cross border issues, the Ice Cold Beer and the awkward machine to move in/out. I had a couple of side-thoughts regarding the Ice Cold Beer game that I'll email you directly through your email address.
Relating to coin boxes, do you have a means to keep track of your keys to your games if you don't keep them in the locks (i.e. a key lock box and an inventory list)
Keep up the great work as usual...Cheers, from Peter.
I noticed you never tin the tip of your iron either. You get better/faster heat transfer with a tinned iron.
For de-soldering, flux definitely makes life easier...
Did you replace the flux capacitor?
Hi John, did you notice that there was a sticker covering the hole on the high voltage cage to adjust the B+ ?
If not you do now LOL
24:32 I heard the clicking of the HV reset again.
hang the wall art on ur ceiling beams like ceiling tiles and like in random spots
57:33 ABSOLUTELY JOHN DO IT!
1:35 - SQUUUEEEEAAAAKKKKKKKK!!!!!!! My favorite part
Ian is the Man..
Glad you liked it John! Sorry the MK is still down haha it'll be another 6 part CRT repair.. Jk
Put the girl one in your bedroom. Hahahahahah
Hi John! I know this isn't quite on topic but I have a question regarding discharging vector monitors. If you have one that's not been powered up for a while (several weeks) is it likely that it would have discharged naturally?
No, you should discharge it still. Always discharge it. Also, with vector monitors you should use an HV Probe to discharge.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech thanks John. Shame the probes are so expensive! Any idea how long one could take to discharge?
David Elvin What do you mean? There is no rule. Assume the monitor is under charge always. This is a good read www.andysarcade.net/personal/tech/discharging.txt
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech I was thinking along the lines of if it was powered off for say 3-4 months. Cheers for the link - I'll check it out!
I take it the Hantarex Polo 25" is a crap monitor then?
I have one coming a hope they are reliable!
hey whats the Flyback Transformer part number??
I started to comment that I had that same Mortal Kombat shirt and got it for 5 bucks at Walmart but then I noticed it doesn't say Mortal Kombat. What does your shirt say on the front and what does it have on the back?
It's a California Extreme shirt. :)
Oh cool! Looked it up and they have some awesome shirt designs.
ok john, i found a pole position on craigslist for 250.00, everything works except the monitor tube its an atari disco. what should i do? P.S. wanna do it in comments or on skype
32:59 It has to be done
55:05 the real reason the Golden Tee is never leaving your basement is revealed.
That thumbnail cracks me up. On a side note, what are your plans with Xenophobe?! Winter is coming, John.
I Need to see my dream come true from you, I just want a hydro in your videos.
Guy with Hakko desoldering iron complains that he has to desolder stuff to test out of circuit. Huh? LOL. Just kidding John!
One of these days we will probably see you throw that door open in excitement and fall over some table full of parts or into some arcade. :)
Are you sure you're not supposed to use a mica insulator with that HOT?
+Marc Deslauriers interesting. There wasn't one there. Hmmmmmn
The original one you took out may have been in an insulated package already.
Marc Deslauriers I'll check tonight. Interesting insight. Thanks
+Marc Deslauriers I think you just caught something. Old one was insulated. Doh. Good catch.
It shouldn't be taking that long to heat those pins on the HOT.
I would definitely recommend the use of a "chisel" type tip on the iron, as it lets you transfer the heat so much more quickly and easily.
The Weller is a pretty good station, but the pointy tip has very little surface area to do it's work.
You should be able to heat the pin and pad within 1-2 seconds, then immediately be able to feed in the solder and complete the joint within about 5 seconds tops.
It's probably not going to damage that big HOT if it's heated for a tad longer, but it's better to only take about 3-4 seconds on most solder joints. ;)
You didn't put an insulator between the transistor and the chassis the old tansistor was a plastic back and the new one had a metal back
Yes, I know this now! You guys are good.
8:35 there is no such thing as too much flux. More flux. _MORE_
i still don't like that exposed Neck board that close to metal. and you're learning don't whine about it ........Electronics repair is NOT an easy thing to do. But worth it when you can just breeze through it after a while
Ughohhh, now you're gonna fix _this_ monitor! I bet you're sick of repairing monitors right now! I know, but ya've gotta fix this in order to get MKII up, though.... Ughhh, huh?
Are vector flybacks like that still-good one you have not compatible with raster ones? Or, worse than that, is each flyback unique to a certain model or series of monitor?
No one cares who's first!
Did you not see the place at one of your other videos where I described how to pronounce "degauss" as "dee * GOWS" (not like "-gos")?
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