Oh yeah that last comment was for a Kraton 6s v5 . It’s been a good RC for me and almost complete so I’m somewhat enthusiastic about the project as it nears completion hopefully . Of the max6 g2 system doesn’t work I ll throw the spectrum back in but it should .hopefully . I did a granite with a 4s system on 3s battery , 4s backflips , wide kit , steel diffs, shock tower adjuster , 6s shocks and it lands like a cream puff but it goes further in the air the heavier tires . It’s pretty awesome for a jumper as long as ot lands on 4 wheels the 1” taller higher and 6s Mohave k6s combo shocks reduce the chassis slap quite a bit . All my other cars except the 4s outcast will hit chassis of drop them form the knee height but no that granite . Like a cream puff man . I’m going to make a vid soon as the phone holder comes
This is the last thing I need to do for my diffs, that and get some TRUE 2.25mm diff pins. The pins that come stock are definitely not 2.25mm, there's so much play on them. So hopefully after shimming up the pinion gear, I won't have any issues with the ring gear, and hopefully, after getting the thicker pins I won't have any broken sun gears anymore.
Have a Kraton EXB on the way and have been researching diff shimming. Never thought of putting a shim/ washer behind the bearing. Usually just shim the outer bearing. Great info and thanks.
Noob here but sounds like your input gear and the input shaft cup was not set right or came loose overtime and gave it to much slop causing the input gear to eat the crown gear. prob one of the things people should check before or after each run to see if the input shaft cup slid from its spot. I'm sure shimming it would be a backup to prevent it from sliding? No idea, just tossing out my thoughts.
@@stuart3712 Hi Joe the issue isn't slop there isn't any slop on the drive cup.it is to get the pinion to stick slightly further out to mesh better with the crown wheel gear
Time to replace some diff cups . Only one side is really bad in the front and rear so that’s what they’ll get . Doing the servo saver shim next . I d add the adjustable piece but rings are cheaper and in the house right ? Thanks for making the vids . Yours was the best one I’ve found to get this done . It’s getting a max6 g2 1650kv motor esc combo so I ll do everything as long as I’m in the mood . Once these things are done mine have been good for many many packs . More than 30 or more depending
Great video on that that's were I'm having issues too. Can you just shim the back of the input gear ? Will that work the same way as shimming the ball bearing? Can you leave a link down below of what kind of shims those are I didn't see it in description thank you you're the man
Once again buddy u r a legend, I also followed this tip of urs and just in time as my crown gear on my front diff has a chip in one tooth and pinion looking worn so again I thank u buddy knowledge is power and u r it 😉👍👌
Guess I will also have to test this on my Kraton and buy even more shims then 😆 I did originally try a shim on the otherside of the bearing but it made it way too tight... Thanks for another great video mate.
Bournemouth RC I give up sharing tips on Facebook site it just used to piss me off when someone would try to find a fault in what you was doing Or people would say they don’t need shimming they have never broken a diff 😂
@@martyncrease8289 yea man, I know what you mean, they will learn when they get through more expensive parts rather that some 10p shims to stop it happening in the first place. Keep them coming though man you have a load of knowledge on these things 👍👍😁😁
Good tip bro,but if you get good sealed bearings to replace the stock ones,this eliminates the play,also adding 2 shims on the drive side of the diff helps too! Every little helps! Peace bro...hope the Mojave build turns out good!
Cheers man, I have a set of sealed bearings in my Krajave build and they needed the same. Yea I have also done that on the drive side, now I have done both they fit really snug. Hopefully will have the build finished in the next week or 2
Cant you just pin the input shaft cup tighter to stop the slop? Im a noob but it seems to do the job as long as the set screw does its job. Mine has 0 slop but as i said, i'm a noob so maybe doing it that way causes issues? Also to note i have the HR diff bulkheads/case.
Yes I would never leave it to tight, you always want a little bit of play and clearance for when everything expands. It would either rub on the cup or snap a tooth on the gear if it expanded too much
Much appreciated! Are you still using arrma ring and pinions or have you gone aftermarket? I just stripped my 3rd ring and pinion on my v4 notorious (front diff) I will be following your advice, definitely getting a feeler guage to determine shim sizes
I'm having a hard time trying to find the size "13mm 19mm 0.2mm" shims. Anyone in the U.S find a seller? The closest thing I can find is from Arrma themselves with "Washer, 13x16x0.2mm (4)" , and the exact part is ARRMA #ARA709031 . Will this one work?
Oh yeah that last comment was for a Kraton 6s v5 . It’s been a good RC for me and almost complete so I’m somewhat enthusiastic about the project as it nears completion hopefully . Of the max6 g2 system doesn’t work I ll throw the spectrum back in but it should .hopefully . I did a granite with a 4s system on 3s battery , 4s backflips , wide kit , steel diffs, shock tower adjuster , 6s shocks and it lands like a cream puff but it goes further in the air the heavier tires . It’s pretty awesome for a jumper as long as ot lands on 4 wheels the 1” taller higher and 6s Mohave k6s combo shocks reduce the chassis slap quite a bit . All my other cars except the 4s outcast will hit chassis of drop them form the knee height but no that granite . Like a cream puff man . I’m going to make a vid soon as the phone holder comes
This is the last thing I need to do for my diffs, that and get some TRUE 2.25mm diff pins. The pins that come stock are definitely not 2.25mm, there's so much play on them. So hopefully after shimming up the pinion gear, I won't have any issues with the ring gear, and hopefully, after getting the thicker pins I won't have any broken sun gears anymore.
Have a Kraton EXB on the way and have been researching diff shimming. Never thought of putting a shim/ washer behind the bearing. Usually just shim the outer bearing. Great info and thanks.
Yea it helps massively, probably better than shims behind the bearing
Very helpful as i keep blowing out the crown and pinion on my Kraton, even after shimming the side - will give this a try
Yea this is good little trick, to get a better mesh and stronger gears
Noob here but sounds like your input gear and the input shaft cup was not set right or came loose overtime and gave it to much slop causing the input gear to eat the crown gear. prob one of the things people should check before or after each run to see if the input shaft cup slid from its spot. I'm sure shimming it would be a backup to prevent it from sliding? No idea, just tossing out my thoughts.
@@stuart3712 Hi Joe the issue isn't slop there isn't any slop on the drive cup.it is to get the pinion to stick slightly further out to mesh better with the crown wheel gear
Bournemouth RC yep, my rear was so bad that only 2/3rds of the pinion was running on the crown
Great info I put the shim directly behind the pinion I will try shimming the bearing now
Time to replace some diff cups . Only one side is really bad in the front and rear so that’s what they’ll get . Doing the servo saver shim next . I d add the adjustable piece but rings are cheaper and in the house right ? Thanks for making the vids . Yours was the best one I’ve found to get this done . It’s getting a max6 g2 1650kv motor esc combo so I ll do everything as long as I’m in the mood . Once these things are done mine have been good for many many packs . More than 30 or more depending
Thank you man!! I made what you saying in this video & the mesh its excellent!! 2 channels i realy love... your & kevin talbot!!
Cheers man, I'm glad it helped. Thank you I'm know Kevin Talbot but do enjoy doing these videos 😁😁👍👍
I really enjoy your videos. Keep it up!
Cheers man 😁😁👍👍
Great video on that that's were I'm having issues too. Can you just shim the back of the input gear ? Will that work the same way as shimming the ball bearing? Can you leave a link down below of what kind of shims those are I didn't see it in description thank you you're the man
Thank you!! Been looking for this video!! I blew out my diffirential doing some backflips. Definitely going to shim the input gear
Yea that's easily done, hopefully this will sort it out for you. Mine are pretty tough now
Once again buddy u r a legend, I also followed this tip of urs and just in time as my crown gear on my front diff has a chip in one tooth and pinion looking worn so again I thank u buddy knowledge is power and u r it 😉👍👌
Man went through 3 gears thanks so much
Just make sure not to install the diff backwards ;) @4:25
Hi love the helpful content just wondering if this would be similar on arrma kraton 4s thanks am trying to learn
Guess I will also have to test this on my Kraton and buy even more shims then 😆
I did originally try a shim on the otherside of the bearing but it made it way too tight...
Thanks for another great video mate.
Cheers man, Yea there are a few shims needed on these rigs, once you have it set up they should be nice and strong
Nicely done brother👌🏻
Cheers man
Finally I catch what is going on about shimming! thanks! 👊👊
Yea man, those little washers make a huge difference, I have 2 other diff shimming videos, li is in the description 😁😁👍👍
@@bournemouthrc4371 I will see them too! well shown and explained 👌
NIce! never thought to shim the pinion
Cheers man, yea it makes big difference
Thank you
Thanks so much for sharing your secrets. I’m in the US. Where did you buy your 13x19x.2 mm Kraton 5S pinion schism. Thanks
posting links where to find these shims or a list of brands/ shims you use in general would help a lot of people trying to find these.
Sorry I thought I had added it in the description, I have now added it👍👍😁😁
Can you use the shim that come with the truck behind the ring bearing of the pinion gear ⚙️ ?
Has anyone found the needed 19mm OD shim from a US supplier? $32 shipping from the UK for a few dollars worth of shims makes them very non affordable.
Can I use 13x160.2 instead 13x19 as it is very hard find In Australia
Why don't you have the washer AR709042 is it missing there?
Wicked video mate perfectly dun 👍
Cheers man, you tips are amazing. Need more to make the perfect arrma 😂😂😂
Bournemouth RC I give up sharing tips on Facebook site it just used to piss me off when someone would try to find a fault in what you was doing
Or people would say they don’t need shimming they have never broken a diff 😂
@@martyncrease8289 yea man, I know what you mean, they will learn when they get through more expensive parts rather that some 10p shims to stop it happening in the first place. Keep them coming though man you have a load of knowledge on these things 👍👍😁😁
So you are ideally looking for .2mm correct? What number is that on the feeler gauge? .007 or .008? Or am I totally wrong. Thanks!
Watched this vid when v5 is the latest model. Is this the same case as for the v5? Diff issue still? New sub💯
Good tip bro,but if you get good sealed bearings to replace the stock ones,this eliminates the play,also adding 2 shims on the drive side of the diff helps too! Every little helps! Peace bro...hope the Mojave build turns out good!
Cheers man, I have a set of sealed bearings in my Krajave build and they needed the same. Yea I have also done that on the drive side, now I have done both they fit really snug. Hopefully will have the build finished in the next week or 2
Cant you just pin the input shaft cup tighter to stop the slop? Im a noob but it seems to do the job as long as the set screw does its job. Mine has 0 slop but as i said, i'm a noob so maybe doing it that way causes issues? Also to note i have the HR diff bulkheads/case.
No the issue isn't slop it's getting the pinion to stick slightly further out to mesh better with the crown wheel
Awesome video bro . Stay safe.
Cheers man, you too
This was super helpful!! Does .2 mill account for heat expansion??
Yes I would never leave it to tight, you always want a little bit of play and clearance for when everything expands. It would either rub on the cup or snap a tooth on the gear if it expanded too much
Much appreciated! Are you still using arrma ring and pinions or have you gone aftermarket? I just stripped my 3rd ring and pinion on my v4 notorious (front diff) I will be following your advice, definitely getting a feeler guage to determine shim sizes
Cheers man, Yea I still use arrma ones, but I believe the new v5 ones are hardened so they might help
@@bournemouthrc4371 v5 diffs still needs shimming?
Anyone got an ebay link for US buyers?
I'm having a hard time trying to find the size "13mm 19mm 0.2mm" shims. Anyone in the U.S find a seller? The closest thing I can find is from Arrma themselves with "Washer, 13x16x0.2mm (4)" , and the exact part is ARRMA #ARA709031 . Will this one work?
What actual size pinion bearing big ans and small that?
I shimmed my front diff as well with 60k but I can't turn the outdrives by hand. Did I shim them too much?
Yes if you can't spin them by hand its to tight
How necessary is this because I was considering getting a kraton but this makes me have second thoughts
It all depends on how hard you want to drive it, but in all honesty yes it's pretty important
I had my Kraton stock for many months before doing this. It did however come with low diff fluids. That would be the best time to check
Does this app lay for front, center and rear diffs?
Front and rear yes, not the centre though as that is set but the motor mount