Thanks so much for taking the time to post this video. One tip to any that are doing this is to only tighten the egr tube to the body of valve enough so that it is snug, but just lose enough so you can move it into position with some force. This makes reassembly so much easier.
20:39 you must remove the cowl bar going across the frame, will make your life a lot easier doing this job. Don't attempt to squeeze the plenum under the bar you wont mate up properly with the egr tube. And also the egr tube seal goes half way on and lubricate inside and outside of it with oil so that it slips and moves back to the correct sealing position when the plenum is pushed into it properly.
I’ve done this at least five times on each one of my Chrysler 300 and I have a Dodge charger I just did yesterday I guess I kind of enjoy it but it was easy but I used a drill to take screws it was much faster change spark plugs while taking the valve cover gasket off and put the EGR valve one was pretty easy I love getting my hair is greasy
Just did rocker arms assembly (both sides) replacement on 06 3.5 V-6; so far the ticking noise is gone. the entire job took about 4 hours. The EGR to plenum 0-ring gasket was replaced before with spark plug change and was badly deformed, however owner did not report any desirability issues. I installed genuine Chrysler part because it looks more "massive" and more "rigid" than Felpro included in plenum gasket set. Thanks again for your video, saved me lot of effort
@@Distractor_Beam hey man after you removed the throttle body and cleaned and then installed back its not. Necessary to programed ?? Or it programa itself ??
Can’t seem to get the EGR to actually stay in the air intake while I torque it down. Any suggestions ? Before I end up just taking the whole windshield wiper assembly off to untighten and retighten the egr so it’s flush
I just did this without removing the intake or the hood. First, about the hood. Take the hood support lifts off at the base, then the hood will flip up further out of the way. Tie it off both directions so it cannot move. Secondly, and this is important, find a sheet of soft foam cushion and throw it on top of the engine. That's it, you can do the rest from laying on top of the engine. You won't be able to see a God dammed thing, but if you fuck around long enough you'll figure out where all the bolts are. This is why the foam is important, its gonna take an hour easy to find all these pieces of shit bolts and take them out and put it all back together. Leave everything loose until it's all fitted back together, and for Gods sake put a drop of oil on the EGR tube bolts. They go back in so much easier. Oh, and another thing. Once you have it all back together, run that piece of shit into the first car that pulls out in front of you. You'll thank me later when the heater core shits out antifreeze and the whole goddam dash has to come out.
It could be helpful but for this job ot takes just the 10mm for small nuts and the 15 mm for the big ones and the 8mm it just for the EGR tube thats very simple i guess
Distractor_Beam thanks, I managed to replace it but the car runs/ idles kinda rough. No codes were thrown. Just wanted to ask if maybe you knew of any possible problems ?
The best way is to get an obd II reader for about 90 bucks at a parts store. The 2nd best way is to drive it until the code goes away by itself. The 3rd best way is to unplug the battery, turn the ignition to on, turn the headlights on, and let it sit for about a half hour so there's no juice left in the system. Keep in mind the vehicle may have a pending code until it passes a self check outlined here: ruclips.net/video/JMC-B6myRV4/видео.htmlm
I'd done everything the same way on my wife's chrysler and after all that the intake light came on. The car runs good for a minute or two then it goes to skipping then shuts down. Switch it off. It'll run for a minutes then the light comes back on then the skipping and shuts down. Help
Alex Jackson did you change the plenum intake gasket? Also take some water and spray where the the back of the egr tube goes and see if the rpms go up and if so change the rubber part you have a leak
Thanks so much for taking the time to post this video. One tip to any that are doing this is to only tighten the egr tube to the body of valve enough so that it is snug, but just lose enough so you can move it into position with some force. This makes reassembly so much easier.
Thanks for this video and the one you made for a 3.5 timing belt. Best 3.5 timing belt video on the WEB
20:39 you must remove the cowl bar going across the frame, will make your life a lot easier doing this job. Don't attempt to squeeze the plenum under the bar you wont mate up properly with the egr tube. And also the egr tube seal goes half way on and lubricate inside and outside of it with oil so that it slips and moves back to the correct sealing position when the plenum is pushed into it properly.
I’ve done this at least five times on each one of my Chrysler 300 and I have a Dodge charger I just did yesterday I guess I kind of enjoy it but it was easy but I used a drill to take screws it was much faster change spark plugs while taking the valve cover gasket off and put the EGR valve one was pretty easy I love getting my hair is greasy
You’re weird
Thanks for the video! It reminded me about intake manifold gasket change I've done on 93 Lincoln TC 4.6!
I bet :) I can see you've made a lot of repair videos yourself. Very nice.
Just did rocker arms assembly (both sides) replacement on 06 3.5 V-6; so far the ticking noise is gone. the entire job took about 4 hours. The EGR to plenum 0-ring gasket was replaced before with spark plug change and was badly deformed, however owner did not report any desirability issues. I installed genuine Chrysler part because it looks more "massive" and more "rigid" than Felpro included in plenum gasket set. Thanks again for your video, saved me lot of effort
@@Distractor_Beam hey man after you removed the throttle body and cleaned and then installed back its not. Necessary to programed ?? Or it programa itself ??
You have it easy pal, the bolts on your EGR not welded in by corrosion and no worries about shearing the heads off.
Can’t seem to get the EGR to actually stay in the air intake while I torque it down. Any suggestions ? Before I end up just taking the whole windshield wiper assembly off to untighten and retighten the egr so it’s flush
Same here it's a chronic issue, very irritating.
I just did this without removing the intake or the hood. First, about the hood. Take the hood support lifts off at the base, then the hood will flip up further out of the way. Tie it off both directions so it cannot move. Secondly, and this is important, find a sheet of soft foam cushion and throw it on top of the engine. That's it, you can do the rest from laying on top of the engine. You won't be able to see a God dammed thing, but if you fuck around long enough you'll figure out where all the bolts are. This is why the foam is important, its gonna take an hour easy to find all these pieces of shit bolts and take them out and put it all back together. Leave everything loose until it's all fitted back together, and for Gods sake put a drop of oil on the EGR tube bolts. They go back in so much easier. Oh, and another thing. Once you have it all back together, run that piece of shit into the first car that pulls out in front of you. You'll thank me later when the heater core shits out antifreeze and the whole goddam dash has to come out.
Great tips. That last bit made me laugh. These cars are great until they're not. :)
@@Distractor_Beam my sarcasm was meant more for a chuckle than anything. 🤘
Why is your engine so dirty? Did you remove the plastic covering from bottom of car?
And a list of tools used in the description. Thanks
I think my EGR tube bent it never seats flush :(
One helpful thing you can do, everytime u loosen or tighten a bolt, please comment or put on the screen what size it is. 8mm 10mm etc.
It could be helpful but for this job ot takes just the 10mm for small nuts and the 15 mm for the big ones and the 8mm it just for the EGR tube thats very simple i guess
What was the total time? I feel like this is going to take me all day and night lol
Approximately 1-3 hours.
CrystalClearServicesLLC y
CrystalClearServicesLLC g
MADE ME SAY FUCK IT LOL SHOP TIME
U know that u don't need removal throttle body unless u change gasket for it
Do you think this step by step is the same on a 09 Challenger 3.5 L v6?
Yes.
With the egr bolts themselves what way do they loosen
Counterclockwise.
Distractor_Beam thanks, I managed to replace it but the car runs/ idles kinda rough. No codes were thrown. Just wanted to ask if maybe you knew of any possible problems ?
Distractor_Beam sorry for so many questions but how did you manage to keep the erg valve flush while screwing in the rest of the bolts ?
How did you reset the computer
The best way is to get an obd II reader for about 90 bucks at a parts store. The 2nd best way is to drive it until the code goes away by itself. The 3rd best way is to unplug the battery, turn the ignition to on, turn the headlights on, and let it sit for about a half hour so there's no juice left in the system. Keep in mind the vehicle may have a pending code until it passes a self check outlined here: ruclips.net/video/JMC-B6myRV4/видео.htmlm
I'd done everything the same way on my wife's chrysler and after all that the intake light came on. The car runs good for a minute or two then it goes to skipping then shuts down. Switch it off. It'll run for a minutes then the light comes back on then the skipping and shuts down. Help
Alex Jackson did you change the plenum intake gasket? Also take some water and spray where the the back of the egr tube goes and see if the rpms go up and if so change the rubber part you have a leak
what was your car doing for u to change it
Check engine light.
Check engine light with a p0404 diagnostic code.
This is a really horrible video did not even tell us what he was cleaning with or giving a safe brand name to use. Dislike