Hello from Farnce, excellent explanations, comments and techniques to model spur gears. You're passing on an experience that I'm going to apply out of conviction, because it corresponds to the technical requirements of mechanics. Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I enjoyed that. It was good to see the design taken through to the finished article including printing tips and then how to improve it. I just want to throw in a few things. At 1:30, when running the "Spur Gear" script, go to the "Add-ins" tab instead. Run the "Spur Gear" script from there, either the C++ or Python version (most tutorials seem to prefer the Python version). The script will now run until you exit Fusion 360. You will find Spur Gear at the bottom of the "Create" drop-down list in the "Solid" tab. 11:00, you can right click on individual components in the "Browser" to save as STL. You can use this method to save individual bodies within components as well. 20:54 At Last, I now understand how and why to use "Project". Thank you. At 22:15, you mirror the screw and nut features so that you can add a screw from the opposite side. Meaning that your shaft had a flat side, will this throw the centre off?
1:30 I know that works, yet I never do it that way for some reason. I probably should because it saves a few clicks. Strangely I can't get the add-in to run at startup 11:00 Another button that I know is there, but that I never use for some reason. Old habits die hard I suppose. 22:15 If you torque the screws down equally hard, they will push the gear out equally hard. The nuts also have exactly the same amount of plastic they can push against. The only difference is that the setscrew pushing into the flat will be slightly closer to the center, causing a slight mass imbalance, but that's really tiny. Make sure you torque both screws down in a roughly equal amount though. Thanks for watching so attentively!
You make instructing look so easy! By far my favorite. I am making a series of videos how to get a HAM Radio license and I am attempting to mimic you as much as possible.
Thanks! Part 2 on the parameters is already out, you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/ogCGq1aSM80/видео.html . Part 3 may take another week or two because I have a few other things planned first.
Thanks for this man. I'm not an engineer but this really helps me understand some things, and I want to start trying to model stuff soon too. Really appreciate your efforts, I will continue watching the series.
I love the jig you made to center the hole. If I may make a suggestion, you might want to enlarge the botton hole. On the top of the jig, you add a large round hole. You then can print a plug for that top hole with an appropriately sized hole in the plug. These plugs would be interchangeable and potentially single use, but it's easy and cheap to print them as required.
Thanks! The interchangable plug idea is pretty good, that would cut down on the reprints by quite a lot. You would need some method of securing those plugs to the rest of the jig though, but that shouldn't be too hard. Another option is to use drill bushings, as I've shown here: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
Yeah it's really quite easy to do all of this in any CAD package you're proficient in. As long as the CAD software has an involute generator, and every decent package does. Thanks for watching!
@@antalz I will say I don't believe Creo has the same kind of convenient intuitive tool that Fusion 360 has as you're showing, though I am pretty much brand new to Creo. What I've been doing so far is manually creating the involute curves (like how you'd have to do one with pencil & paper) using the steps described in the textbook Shigley's Mechanical Engineering Design, chapter 13; I know that you can also generate the curve by inputting the parametric equation describing it but for now, I find it a little more fun and satisfying to do the pencil & paper process; lot better feel for the gear geometry this way. Thank you for the great series of videos!!
Brilliant. We were taught (many years ago) that a metal screw with a shaft as you showed here is a bolt, not a screw. A screw has threads all the way to the head.
There are unfortunately many different opinions on this matter. The one followed by the machinery's handbook for example is that it's a bolt when you put it through a hole and put a nut on the other side, and it's a screw if the hole itself is threaded or the screw cuts its own threads. I dislike this definition a lot because it implies that what a thing is (screw or bolt) depends on how you use it, which seems silly and pointless to me. But that's just to illustrate there are tons of different viewpoints about this. Personally I tend to call small stuff screws, M6 and under, and larger stuff bolts. This too is a very arbitrary and meaningless distinction. I am also more inclined to call something a bolt when it has an external hex head, for use with a wrench. At the end of the day I recommend just not worrying about it.
@@antalz Andrew Tanenbaum quipped. "The good thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from. So I tend to agree. I'm more worried about if it does the job I intend for it rather than calling it a "threaded nail". :)
Amazing video! I couldn't figure out how to get to, let alone use the gear extension. You might want to consider simply printing a gear with a 'D' shaped hole to fit the shaft Also right clicking the body or component will allow you to convert it to stl which is slightly easier
I haven't ever tried printing a D shaped hole, I pretty much assume that it won't hold up to the torque. A generic stepper with a 5mm D-shaft produces 0.5Nm, that's 0.5/0.0025 = 200N of tangential force right at the shaft's edge. I just always assumed that such a force concentrated at the corner of a D-shaft hole wasn't going to work. Perhaps it will and I'm just being too pessimistic about it. Good tip on rightclicking bodies/components, I hadn't seen that before
niceee, thanks for naming which button you press, really helps out, im new to fusion and just got a new 3d printer, im mainly using it for my Rc hobby, ..thnx subscribed
Have you tried to print with nylon filament? I think is better for gears, but u have to take in consideration some warping, so use glue stick for bed for combating warping of nylon.
Yeah I did consider Nylon. It should be quite good with a quite low friction. I do expect the teeth to warp, so I think a raft would be in order. I don't know if I can test how different materials compare when it comes to gears. I didn't do Nylon for this video because I don't want to make the subject more daunting. Nylon is quite hard to print, some Taulman blends are okay but true Nylon is quite hard, you need an all-metal hotend, enclosure and good moisture control. I do have a printer set up for it.
Thanks for the informative video! What filaments do you recommend to print the gears in? My preference goes out to ASA (instead of ABS), but i saw better performance of PLA in some videos. While often stated that PLA should only be used for visual prints. I like to hear your thoughts!
Most of my gears are PLA. PLA has better stiffness, and can resist higher forces, than most other filaments. Its only downside for gears is the low temperature resistance, which is a problem for high speed gearsets. PLA is definitely not just for visual prints.
Thanks, it's still on the scheduel but I'm currently working on Corona-virus related stuff, mostly a basic ventilator design. I posted an update on that just a few hours ago. I think after that's done I'll get back to the gears because it seems to be a quite in-demand topic.
There are a few beginner's guides on RUclips, like these: ruclips.net/video/A5bc9c3S12g/видео.html ruclips.net/video/qvrHuaHhqHI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/S6OUkn2Cksg/видео.html Is there something about those you don't like or have difficulties following? I'm up for making a beginner's guide, but I'm not sure if there is a lot of value in it, because multiple such tutorials already exist. If you think I can make one in a new valuable way I'm up for it for sure.
The most useful parts are just seeing how efficiently use fusion 360, I learnt a lot for future designs just by weeing how you construct things ! Your drill jig could have a gap for the small pieces and a flange bearing for the drill bit, keeps it centred.
Thanks mate! I think for the drill jig using a drill bushing like other people suggested is the way to go, I've already implemented that idea: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
Wish we could all stop saying back lash when lash means the same thing. It’s like people who insist on saying conveyor belt, even when your conveyor has no belts.
My hope is that this will be a layman's guide to designing decent and useful gears that's easy to understand. I don't need perfection, I'm not building a transmission. How does one decide how many teeth there should be? When should I use a bunch of small teeth, when should I use fewer big teeth, etc.
That's what I'm currently aiming for. I'm currently trying to balance depth with complexity. My current idea is to use basic algebra to discuss number of teeth, size of teeth and shaft-to-shaft distance, and one line of elementary trigonometry for pressure angle. I don't want to talk about what pressure angle does to the shape of a tooth, I don't think people care, but I do want to show that spur gears push each other away while transfering torque. I definitely don't want to get into elaborate geometrical constructions or any integrals.
Thanks a lot! That's a big part of why I started this series, unfortunately many tutorials are hard to follow and some are even preseting false information. Way too many tutorials use random arcs or splines as a tooth profile...
Excellent video, very helpful. I'm wondering for the first method if you used a screw with a head on it, the head could push in from the outside towards the washer and help make it more solid. Would this work?
Thanks! I think that won't work, it's sortof like pulling yourself up by the bootstraps. If the screw head is pushing the washer back in by let's say 10N, then that's 10N less force of the screw tip pushing into the shaft. I feel like I should think about this more, there must be a better way to explain this.
@@antalz Yes I understand what you mean, the force would cancel out. I was thinking the screw head couldn't move the nut back down the thread but that doesn't matter, it's not where the force is coming from.
Late to the party, but as an engineer, I feel the need to comment. Gears need 100% infill. Yes, in general, material stresses run higher on the surface, but effectively having a hollow part creates surfaces on the inside as well. The sharp inside corner that the slicer will leave under each tooth combined with the inside corner created by the inside surface of the face will create sharp junction of three surfaces on the inside. This will be a huge stress concentrator. Use 100% infill. Also try setting the top/bottom surface thickness to the full thickness of the gear. I would expect that the diagonalized print lines of the top/bottom layer will act to brace the teeth. Also, I would experiment with the shell thickness. I would expect that would allow the diagonal lines to extend into the tooth somewhat, preventing the delamination/crazing at the root of the tooth.
I don't think I agree entirely. You are correct about the stress risers in general, but if you ensure that the shell thickness is large compared to the width of the teeth, the "inside" surface becomes nearly cylindrical. Still it's a great basis for experiments, though at the moment I don't have a good test setup for testing gears.
A very good tutorial, but you left out the obvious method of just making a hole with a flat on one side and just pressing it onto your motor shaft. For a lot of low stress applications I would think that would be enough.
I didleave it out, partly because I honestly haven't tried it very often. It's a very hard fit to get right, too loose and it barely couples, too tight and the gear won't fit. It's very hard with FDM to get that to work. Even if you do, it takes very little for the gear to deform and rotate over the shaft. I don't want to present any methods that I haven't tried myself or that I don't believe in myself.
Killer series, particularly the formulas and how it all works. Occasionally some the the fusion stuff was a bit fast if you hadn't used some of the tools in question, but overall outstanding. Thanks so much
I really appreciate these videos with your practical applications to real world situations. Having farmed in the midwest US for many years I sometimes applied the same techniques (such as shortening a bolt, or using a screw driver as a punch) in our farm "shop". At this time however I especially appreciate the Fusion techniques you're showing as I am quite a novice in this CAD program.
Why not export directly to 3mf. 3mf is a better format for 3d printing, is supported by the vast majority of slicers and doesn't require cloud translation.
I might choose .3mf now, but there's still not really a practical difference. As said in the video though, .stl does not require cloud translation, and it still doesn't now. I use Cura, and it accepts .stl and .3mf all the same. I think for sharing files with the broader community .3mf is advantageous.
awesome, useful, understandable, this is just EPIC tyvm man, with this knowledge i hope to finally be able to do this as a hobby, this will be helpfull for sure, of course i subscribed and will happily see your other videos
Thanks mate, I have more planned on gears, but there's some other 3D printed stuff that might appear later. It will take some time though, quite a few subjects I want to cover first.
@@antalz great, I enjoy every second of your topics. if I may suggest a future topic! I would suggest a practical guide on how to design a big modular mechanical part that can be clamped and snapped together after 3dprinting its pieces. I searched alot but I couldn't find such tutorial. cheers
@@HaidarHasani Thank you! That's a good topic, I have assembled a large boat from multiple large printed pieces, is that what you're talking about? I haven't yet assembled higher precision parts like this I think, like bearing housings or gears, only large vehicles and frames. It's quite difficult to maintain sub-millimeter accuracy.
Does it have 2 Z-axis leadscrews, and do you have the endstops set so the gantry is perpendicular to the Z axis? All my printers have only 1 Z axis leadscrew which creates that problem, but the setscrew also just forces the gear out of alignment slightly.
@@antalz the anycubic has stepper motors on both sides of the z axis. I did not check the endswitches yet. Also the frame is may be not absolutely perpendicular to the print bed. Need to order a precise protractor first.
I'm not completely sure, but I think Nylon due to better stiffness. Friction and wear resistance are very good on both. Are you planning on cutting your gears from a blank? I believe 3D printing PTFE or Teflon is impossible to begin with.
I'm not going to read all 95 comments. Not sure if it's been mentioned yet..buuut...its not uncommon to grind a small flat on a steel shaft to drill the center of said shaft to prevent drill bit wandering. Don't forget to put a punch Mark for your drill bit to start right were you wish.
How can I achieve clutch mechanism in 3D printed parts? Please help! I want to develop a mechanism (positive drive preferable) that engage or disengages the motor shaft from another stationary shaft.
I don't think I have a good solution for this. The best ideas I have are: 1) Put a crown gear-like thing on both shafts. You can then engage/disengage it, but the transition will be very sudden, it will create a pretty intense shock 2) Make a ring of magnets on both shafts. When far apart they won't transfer torque, but they will if you bring both rings close together. This doesn't transfer that much torque though even with strong neodymium magnets. The final idea is using a planetary gearset, and then applying/releasing a brake from one of the gears. I haven't explored this though and it's quite complicated. I don't know of anything that would really replace a true clutch.
If you’re going to go to the trouble of mirroring everything to put an additional setscrew in, which pushed the piece away from the driveshaft, wouldn’t it be better to design it so it actually clamps on to the D shaft?
I haven't really found a great way to do that. I don't think you can print an accurate enough D-shaped hole so that the gear goes on without excessive force, but also is locked to the shaft well enough that it can withstand 2-3 Nm worth of torque. If you have a more sophisticated design idea I'd like to learn more.
Amazing video set on gears. I'd love to learn more as I'm slowly getting into clock design / machining, do you have any books or resources you can recommend on gear design, etc?
I'm using a regular PLA, 123-3D brand specifically. The differences between brands are very tiny. Don't use PLA+, that's just PLA that's been softened to make it more impact resistant. That's not useful for gears, so no reason to pay extra for that.
No, I got a master's in physics. I just needed some gears for some of my projects, and in the process I found a lot of information that was incomplete, poorly explained, or just plain incorrect, so I decided to start this series.
Nice lesson! Extruding rectangle for a nut is unnecessary action, cause later you anyway draw a poligon on a new scetch. Faster and easier is create an offset plane (or tangent plane for the compact gear from the video) and draw a poligon for a nut and a circle for a screw there
That's true, though I find placing a rectangle within a sketch is easier than placing an offset/tangent plane accurately, because I can more easily reference the other geometry. Perhaps I'm just being weird.
to reduce the forces if you want to go with the flattened shaft, you should use flat setscrews, the wider the better. if you want to use pointy setscrews, you should drill just shallow holes into the round shaft.
Thanks for sharing your tricks with fusion 360. For the screw you cut at the end of your video, grab its head with your drill and make it rotate (lowest speed) while creating a chamfer on the cut end with a rotary tool (mid speed) with little cutting disk. Use the face of the cutting disk and just touch the burred cut border. Take your time, those little cutting disk are fragile when used in this direction.
That sounds like a good trick, though does that mean you have to keep two tools running simultaneously? Or should you put the screw into the drillpress?
@@antalz Yes, you have to keep two tools running simultaneously. A drill press also works. Adding several nuts tightened to the head side will help in securing the screw to the drill (or drill press) so the head and the nuts are tightened together in the chuck. Do not forget the safety glasses. The screw in a drill (high speed) and a file will also works, but in my experience the rotary tool will provide better results. I also use this method to reduce the diameter of the head for tight locations. Hope this help.
Good video. To improve your jig, use a brass or better yet a steel bushing insert in the hole for drill guide. This way you won't ruin the jig every time you drill a new hole.
Just what I was looking for! Thank you. I'm looking at getting a qidi tech 3d printer. Would you suggest using their own software or use one that is more universal? Thanks!
I'd always recommend a universal slicer if possible. The proprietary slicers are usually nothing more than a fork from Cura, and then usually more than a year behind the times.
Hello from Farnce, excellent explanations, comments and techniques to model spur gears. You're passing on an experience that I'm going to apply out of conviction, because it corresponds to the technical requirements of mechanics. Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I enjoyed that. It was good to see the design taken through to the finished article including printing tips and then how to improve it. I just want to throw in a few things. At 1:30, when running the "Spur Gear" script, go to the "Add-ins" tab instead. Run the "Spur Gear" script from there, either the C++ or Python version (most tutorials seem to prefer the Python version). The script will now run until you exit Fusion 360. You will find Spur Gear at the bottom of the "Create" drop-down list in the "Solid" tab. 11:00, you can right click on individual components in the "Browser" to save as STL. You can use this method to save individual bodies within components as well. 20:54 At Last, I now understand how and why to use "Project". Thank you. At 22:15, you mirror the screw and nut features so that you can add a screw from the opposite side. Meaning that your shaft had a flat side, will this throw the centre off?
1:30 I know that works, yet I never do it that way for some reason. I probably should because it saves a few clicks. Strangely I can't get the add-in to run at startup
11:00 Another button that I know is there, but that I never use for some reason. Old habits die hard I suppose.
22:15 If you torque the screws down equally hard, they will push the gear out equally hard. The nuts also have exactly the same amount of plastic they can push against. The only difference is that the setscrew pushing into the flat will be slightly closer to the center, causing a slight mass imbalance, but that's really tiny. Make sure you torque both screws down in a roughly equal amount though.
Thanks for watching so attentively!
You make instructing look so easy! By far my favorite. I am making a series of videos how to get a HAM Radio license and I am attempting to mimic you as much as possible.
There are more and arguably better youtubers to imitate: Applied Science, Tech Ingredients, NighthawkInLight. Best of luck on the video series!
This video is insanely awesome! subscribed right away. Cant wait to see others , great job. perfect!!
Thanks! Part 2 on the parameters is already out, you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/ogCGq1aSM80/видео.html . Part 3 may take another week or two because I have a few other things planned first.
These video's are amazing! I can't wait to see what's next! Subscribed!
Holy molely, you are really good at giving tutorials! clear, concise, and a great pace. 👍
Thanks a lot, if they rest of the series is of interest to you I hope you find it equally good.
What an excellent and comprehensive tutorial !
Thanks, I hope you find the rest of the series interesting too
Thanks for this man. I'm not an engineer but this really helps me understand some things, and I want to start trying to model stuff soon too. Really appreciate your efforts, I will continue watching the series.
Great, informative video. Thank you for your time and trouble.
Thanks for your comment, it's a big motivator for me to continue with this.
I love the jig you made to center the hole. If I may make a suggestion, you might want to enlarge the botton hole. On the top of the jig, you add a large round hole. You then can print a plug for that top hole with an appropriately sized hole in the plug. These plugs would be interchangeable and potentially single use, but it's easy and cheap to print them as required.
Thanks! The interchangable plug idea is pretty good, that would cut down on the reprints by quite a lot. You would need some method of securing those plugs to the rest of the jig though, but that shouldn't be too hard. Another option is to use drill bushings, as I've shown here: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
Thank you very much for this video! I am using Creo instead of Fusion360 but the principles learned from your commentary is very valuable.
Yeah it's really quite easy to do all of this in any CAD package you're proficient in. As long as the CAD software has an involute generator, and every decent package does. Thanks for watching!
@@antalz I will say I don't believe Creo has the same kind of convenient intuitive tool that Fusion 360 has as you're showing, though I am pretty much brand new to Creo. What I've been doing so far is manually creating the involute curves (like how you'd have to do one with pencil & paper) using the steps described in the textbook Shigley's Mechanical Engineering Design, chapter 13; I know that you can also generate the curve by inputting the parametric equation describing it but for now, I find it a little more fun and satisfying to do the pencil & paper process; lot better feel for the gear geometry this way. Thank you for the great series of videos!!
Brilliant. We were taught (many years ago) that a metal screw with a shaft as you showed here is a bolt, not a screw. A screw has threads all the way to the head.
There are unfortunately many different opinions on this matter. The one followed by the machinery's handbook for example is that it's a bolt when you put it through a hole and put a nut on the other side, and it's a screw if the hole itself is threaded or the screw cuts its own threads. I dislike this definition a lot because it implies that what a thing is (screw or bolt) depends on how you use it, which seems silly and pointless to me. But that's just to illustrate there are tons of different viewpoints about this.
Personally I tend to call small stuff screws, M6 and under, and larger stuff bolts. This too is a very arbitrary and meaningless distinction. I am also more inclined to call something a bolt when it has an external hex head, for use with a wrench.
At the end of the day I recommend just not worrying about it.
@@antalz Andrew Tanenbaum quipped. "The good thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
So I tend to agree. I'm more worried about if it does the job I intend for it rather than calling it a "threaded nail". :)
Good and thorough explanations, great video!
Happy to hear that, thanks for watching
Awesome just found your channel this is exactly the help I was looking for in making 3d gears:-))
Thanks mate, glad it's useful to you
Amazing video! I couldn't figure out how to get to, let alone use the gear extension. You might want to consider simply printing a gear with a 'D' shaped hole to fit the shaft
Also right clicking the body or component will allow you to convert it to stl which is slightly easier
I haven't ever tried printing a D shaped hole, I pretty much assume that it won't hold up to the torque. A generic stepper with a 5mm D-shaft produces 0.5Nm, that's 0.5/0.0025 = 200N of tangential force right at the shaft's edge. I just always assumed that such a force concentrated at the corner of a D-shaft hole wasn't going to work. Perhaps it will and I'm just being too pessimistic about it.
Good tip on rightclicking bodies/components, I hadn't seen that before
niceee, thanks for naming which button you press, really helps out, im new to fusion and just got a new 3d printer, im mainly using it for my Rc hobby, ..thnx subscribed
Thank you, if you find any topics you'd like me to cover let me know. I'll try to keep up my habit of calling out the hotkeys.
Very informative!
Excellent content. Thank you!
One of the most to the point, informative videos I've seen, solved all the questions I had. Earned a new sub through 1 video, keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot mate, I hope the rest of the series is also helpful.
You just saved me many, many hours of trial and error. Thank you!!
Excellent video I'm subscribing and clicking the bell for all.
Thanks mate, I'm hoping to have more content coming around January
excellent tuition. thank you!
Thanks mate, glad it was useful to you!
Have you tried to print with nylon filament? I think is better for gears, but u have to take in consideration some warping, so use glue stick for bed for combating warping of nylon.
Yeah I did consider Nylon. It should be quite good with a quite low friction. I do expect the teeth to warp, so I think a raft would be in order. I don't know if I can test how different materials compare when it comes to gears. I didn't do Nylon for this video because I don't want to make the subject more daunting. Nylon is quite hard to print, some Taulman blends are okay but true Nylon is quite hard, you need an all-metal hotend, enclosure and good moisture control. I do have a printer set up for it.
Thanks for the informative video! What filaments do you recommend to print the gears in? My preference goes out to ASA (instead of ABS), but i saw better performance of PLA in some videos. While often stated that PLA should only be used for visual prints. I like to hear your thoughts!
Most of my gears are PLA. PLA has better stiffness, and can resist higher forces, than most other filaments. Its only downside for gears is the low temperature resistance, which is a problem for high speed gearsets. PLA is definitely not just for visual prints.
Great video
i love that you show the parts that didn't work out quite as planned, and how you adjusted.
Thanks, that's a bit of a balance because I also want to be to the point.
Looking forward to your planetary and herringbone gear tutorials!
Thanks, it's still on the scheduel but I'm currently working on Corona-virus related stuff, mostly a basic ventilator design. I posted an update on that just a few hours ago. I think after that's done I'll get back to the gears because it seems to be a quite in-demand topic.
can you make some simple videos on how to use fusion360 to start using it. this video is very simple to follow and practice. thank you
There are a few beginner's guides on RUclips, like these:
ruclips.net/video/A5bc9c3S12g/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/qvrHuaHhqHI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/S6OUkn2Cksg/видео.html
Is there something about those you don't like or have difficulties following? I'm up for making a beginner's guide, but I'm not sure if there is a lot of value in it, because multiple such tutorials already exist. If you think I can make one in a new valuable way I'm up for it for sure.
The most useful parts are just seeing how efficiently use fusion 360, I learnt a lot for future designs just by weeing how you construct things !
Your drill jig could have a gap for the small pieces and a flange bearing for the drill bit, keeps it centred.
Thanks mate! I think for the drill jig using a drill bushing like other people suggested is the way to go, I've already implemented that idea: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
Amazing content, so clear and thorough! Thank you!
Very nice and pragmatic way of explaining, demonstrating and refining to a better solution each time👍
Wish we could all stop saying back lash when lash means the same thing. It’s like people who insist on saying conveyor belt, even when your conveyor has no belts.
You got a subscribe
Thank you! I hope you enjoy the rest of the series as well
My hope is that this will be a layman's guide to designing decent and useful gears that's easy to understand. I don't need perfection, I'm not building a transmission. How does one decide how many teeth there should be? When should I use a bunch of small teeth, when should I use fewer big teeth, etc.
That's what I'm currently aiming for. I'm currently trying to balance depth with complexity. My current idea is to use basic algebra to discuss number of teeth, size of teeth and shaft-to-shaft distance, and one line of elementary trigonometry for pressure angle. I don't want to talk about what pressure angle does to the shape of a tooth, I don't think people care, but I do want to show that spur gears push each other away while transfering torque. I definitely don't want to get into elaborate geometrical constructions or any integrals.
Nice🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩
Great video! Earned my sub. Very systematic and well thought out.
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
33:00 If only someone could come up with a tool that could cut bolts in a second.
RUclips would be a much better place if most educational content was as clear, pragmatic and articulate as yours.
Thanks a lot! That's a big part of why I started this series, unfortunately many tutorials are hard to follow and some are even preseting false information. Way too many tutorials use random arcs or splines as a tooth profile...
Excellent video, very helpful. I'm wondering for the first method if you used a screw with a head on it, the head could push in from the outside towards the washer and help make it more solid. Would this work?
Thanks! I think that won't work, it's sortof like pulling yourself up by the bootstraps. If the screw head is pushing the washer back in by let's say 10N, then that's 10N less force of the screw tip pushing into the shaft. I feel like I should think about this more, there must be a better way to explain this.
@@antalz Yes I understand what you mean, the force would cancel out. I was thinking the screw head couldn't move the nut back down the thread but that doesn't matter, it's not where the force is coming from.
Late to the party, but as an engineer, I feel the need to comment. Gears need 100% infill. Yes, in general, material stresses run higher on the surface, but effectively having a hollow part creates surfaces on the inside as well. The sharp inside corner that the slicer will leave under each tooth combined with the inside corner created by the inside surface of the face will create sharp junction of three surfaces on the inside. This will be a huge stress concentrator. Use 100% infill. Also try setting the top/bottom surface thickness to the full thickness of the gear. I would expect that the diagonalized print lines of the top/bottom layer will act to brace the teeth. Also, I would experiment with the shell thickness. I would expect that would allow the diagonal lines to extend into the tooth somewhat, preventing the delamination/crazing at the root of the tooth.
I don't think I agree entirely. You are correct about the stress risers in general, but if you ensure that the shell thickness is large compared to the width of the teeth, the "inside" surface becomes nearly cylindrical. Still it's a great basis for experiments, though at the moment I don't have a good test setup for testing gears.
A very good tutorial, but you left out the obvious method of just making a hole with a flat on one side and just pressing it onto your motor shaft. For a lot of low stress applications I would think that would be enough.
I didleave it out, partly because I honestly haven't tried it very often. It's a very hard fit to get right, too loose and it barely couples, too tight and the gear won't fit. It's very hard with FDM to get that to work. Even if you do, it takes very little for the gear to deform and rotate over the shaft. I don't want to present any methods that I haven't tried myself or that I don't believe in myself.
Killer series, particularly the formulas and how it all works. Occasionally some the the fusion stuff was a bit fast if you hadn't used some of the tools in question, but overall outstanding. Thanks so much
Thanks a lot mate!
Well done.
I really appreciate these videos with your practical applications to real world situations. Having farmed in the midwest US for many years I sometimes applied the same techniques (such as shortening a bolt, or using a screw driver as a punch) in our farm "shop". At this time however I especially appreciate the Fusion techniques you're showing as I am quite a novice in this CAD program.
Excellent tutorial. You might mention that Auto Project Edges on Reference is enabled in your environment.
Why not export directly to 3mf. 3mf is a better format for 3d printing, is supported by the vast majority of slicers and doesn't require cloud translation.
I might choose .3mf now, but there's still not really a practical difference. As said in the video though, .stl does not require cloud translation, and it still doesn't now. I use Cura, and it accepts .stl and .3mf all the same. I think for sharing files with the broader community .3mf is advantageous.
Amazing job. What are you using for an infill setting. Thanks much for the information.
Mostly 30% for these kinds of prints, triangle pattern. Making sure the teeth consist entirely of walls is much more important though.
awesome, useful, understandable, this is just EPIC tyvm man, with this knowledge i hope to finally be able to do this as a hobby, this will be helpfull for sure, of course i subscribed and will happily see your other videos
hello, very useful information. I would like ask you what 3d printer did you use?
Most of the prints shown are from an Ender3 and a CR-20.
Extremely good video. Top Notch! Thank you.
This video is amazing! Thank you so much!!
Thanks mate, hoping to get part 3 out soon!
very understandable
Thank you so much
34:10 deez nuts
I came here from Reddit and am already excited about the next video. Nice Job.
Thanks, I hope it will meet your expectations
Hi what filament you used?
It's all store-brand 123-3D PLA. About as generic run-of-the-mill as it gets.
great video, make more design for 3d printing related videos
Thanks mate, I have more planned on gears, but there's some other 3D printed stuff that might appear later. It will take some time though, quite a few subjects I want to cover first.
@@antalz great, I enjoy every second of your topics. if I may suggest a future topic! I would suggest a practical guide on how to design a big modular mechanical part that can be clamped and snapped together after 3dprinting its pieces. I searched alot but I couldn't find such tutorial. cheers
@@HaidarHasani Thank you! That's a good topic, I have assembled a large boat from multiple large printed pieces, is that what you're talking about? I haven't yet assembled higher precision parts like this I think, like bearing housings or gears, only large vehicles and frames. It's quite difficult to maintain sub-millimeter accuracy.
@@HaidarHasani One more thing, does this video from Maker's Muse help?: ruclips.net/video/FzCm1iTf8PA/видео.html
@@antalz yes this really helped, thanks
🔥💕👍
great vid
This is the greatest video about the topic. thank you.
Nice video!
Very good. Thorough and informative👌 🙏
Very clever design. Use Freecad to create my gears
Cool, good to hear people can still use these tutorials in other CAD programs.
epic tutorial, Thanks!
Thumbs up.
The wobbeling effect due to the surface is not perpendicular to the shaft hole, is a big problem. Have the same problem on my anycubic i3 s
Does it have 2 Z-axis leadscrews, and do you have the endstops set so the gantry is perpendicular to the Z axis? All my printers have only 1 Z axis leadscrew which creates that problem, but the setscrew also just forces the gear out of alignment slightly.
@@antalz the anycubic has stepper motors on both sides of the z axis. I did not check the endswitches yet. Also the frame is may be not absolutely perpendicular to the print bed. Need to order a precise protractor first.
@@Daniel-ri2ys My anycubic mega has little screws on the gantry that actually push the endstops, so you can adjust those if your printer is the same.
Sir which one is better material for gears Nylon or Teflon
From all point of view like strength, friction, durability, etc
I'm not completely sure, but I think Nylon due to better stiffness. Friction and wear resistance are very good on both. Are you planning on cutting your gears from a blank? I believe 3D printing PTFE or Teflon is impossible to begin with.
@@antalz I have to do some research, hmm Thank You sir
Great! That's the kind of content I want to look at. Thanks
This is video is super useful man! Kudos!
I'm not going to read all 95 comments. Not sure if it's been mentioned yet..buuut...its not uncommon to grind a small flat on a steel shaft to drill the center of said shaft to prevent drill bit wandering. Don't forget to put a punch Mark for your drill bit to start right were you wish.
That would prevent the drill bit from wandering, but can you ensure in that case that your hole will pass through the center of the shaft?
Thanks for your time and efforts
🤩🤩💗
How would you model a crown gear?
I don't know at the moment I'm afraid
How can I achieve clutch mechanism in 3D printed parts? Please help! I want to develop a mechanism (positive drive preferable) that engage or disengages the motor shaft from another stationary shaft.
I don't think I have a good solution for this. The best ideas I have are:
1) Put a crown gear-like thing on both shafts. You can then engage/disengage it, but the transition will be very sudden, it will create a pretty intense shock
2) Make a ring of magnets on both shafts. When far apart they won't transfer torque, but they will if you bring both rings close together. This doesn't transfer that much torque though even with strong neodymium magnets.
The final idea is using a planetary gearset, and then applying/releasing a brake from one of the gears. I haven't explored this though and it's quite complicated.
I don't know of anything that would really replace a true clutch.
If you’re going to go to the trouble of mirroring everything to put an additional setscrew in, which pushed the piece away from the driveshaft, wouldn’t it be better to design it so it actually clamps on to the D shaft?
I haven't really found a great way to do that. I don't think you can print an accurate enough D-shaped hole so that the gear goes on without excessive force, but also is locked to the shaft well enough that it can withstand 2-3 Nm worth of torque. If you have a more sophisticated design idea I'd like to learn more.
Grappig hoe ik meteen weet dat je Nederlands spreekt. Je engels is heel goed. Bwdankt voor de video, dit is precies wat ik nodig heb. 😁👍
Mijn Engels was ooit beter, het is over de jaren heen erg vernederlandst.
Could you please make more Fusion 360 videos? You are the only person that I can understand using this program.
Do you have any topics in particular I should cover? I still haven't made any videos in months, not sure if I'll get back into it soon.
Amazing video set on gears. I'd love to learn more as I'm slowly getting into clock design / machining, do you have any books or resources you can recommend on gear design, etc?
I would primarily recommend the two bottom links in the description. They go far deeper than I do in this series.
tks!
Hi how are you which type of pla material for gear manufacturing please ? i want to know want to make some cool projects thanks
I'm using a regular PLA, 123-3D brand specifically. The differences between brands are very tiny. Don't use PLA+, that's just PLA that's been softened to make it more impact resistant. That's not useful for gears, so no reason to pay extra for that.
Get a bambu
Hello, I'm curious to know if you are/were a Mechanical Engineer. You're very good at gears!! Thanks a lot!
Definitely going to like this video! 👍
No, I got a master's in physics. I just needed some gears for some of my projects, and in the process I found a lot of information that was incomplete, poorly explained, or just plain incorrect, so I decided to start this series.
@@antalz Wow, super cool!
Nice lesson! Extruding rectangle for a nut is unnecessary action, cause later you anyway draw a poligon on a new scetch. Faster and easier is create an offset plane (or tangent plane for the compact gear from the video) and draw a poligon for a nut and a circle for a screw there
That's true, though I find placing a rectangle within a sketch is easier than placing an offset/tangent plane accurately, because I can more easily reference the other geometry. Perhaps I'm just being weird.
I'm so eager to learn model things for daily use in fusion 360 and print it
Good luck mate, it can be frustrating sometimes so be persistent
A lot of information
that I needed excellent video
Thanks mate, I'm hoping to publish my video on helical gears soon
to reduce the forces if you want to go with the flattened shaft, you should use flat setscrews, the wider the better. if you want to use pointy setscrews, you should drill just shallow holes into the round shaft.
Those are some really good tips, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing your tricks with fusion 360. For the screw you cut at the end of your video, grab its head with your drill and make it rotate (lowest speed) while creating a chamfer on the cut end with a rotary tool (mid speed) with little cutting disk. Use the face of the cutting disk and just touch the burred cut border. Take your time, those little cutting disk are fragile when used in this direction.
That sounds like a good trick, though does that mean you have to keep two tools running simultaneously? Or should you put the screw into the drillpress?
@@antalz Yes, you have to keep two tools running simultaneously. A drill press also works. Adding several nuts tightened to the head side will help in securing the screw to the drill (or drill press) so the head and the nuts are tightened together in the chuck. Do not forget the safety glasses. The screw in a drill (high speed) and a file will also works, but in my experience the rotary tool will provide better results. I also use this method to reduce the diameter of the head for tight locations. Hope this help.
Good video. To improve your jig, use a brass or better yet a steel bushing insert in the hole for drill guide. This way you won't ruin the jig every time you drill a new hole.
Thanks! That's a good suggestion. Someone else suggested it before, so I've already done it: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
VERY helpful video helping me to understand how gears are mounted. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Put some drill guide bushings in your jig to preserve the top hole. Thank you for these videos. I am learning quite a bit from them
Thanks mate, others have suggested the same thing. I've already done it in the mean time: ruclips.net/video/qeD7DLyAx74/видео.html
60 seconds into the video... SUBSCRIBED!!
keep it up!
Thanks mate, I'll do my best! Recording the planetary gear video right now.
thanks for a good video..
Teşekkürler.
Thanks a lot for that mate!
Thanks!
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
Watched the whole video. Thank you.
That's great for my retention and watchtime metrics, the algorithm will be pleased, thanks!
6:36 Tick the slice option in the sketch palette for easier drawing
Great tip, thanks for sharing and for watching!
Is there a similarly simple script for solidworks?
Not sure about that honestly, I only remember that Solidworks has a nice toolbox to make gear pairs with. Don't really know much more I'm afraid.
Just what I was looking for! Thank you. I'm looking at getting a qidi tech 3d printer. Would you suggest using their own software or use one that is more universal? Thanks!
I'd always recommend a universal slicer if possible. The proprietary slicers are usually nothing more than a fork from Cura, and then usually more than a year behind the times.
@@antalz thank you! 🙂
Awesome.