How To 3D Print Gears Like a Boss
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
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3D printing has revolutionized the way we think about gears and gearboxes. With the right knowledge, you can now 3D print gears and 3D print gear mechanisms that are functional and reliable. One of the best things about 3D printing gears is the ability to adjust the gear ratio to match the specific needs of your project.
When it comes to the strength of 3D printed gears, there have been many concerns in the past. However, the strength of 3D printed gears has significantly improved with the advancements in materials and printing technology. With the right combination of material and printing process, 3D printed gears can be just as strong as traditional gears.
If you're looking to get started with understanding gears and mechanical principles, 3D printing gears is a good place to start. You can learn how to design 3D printed gears using popular CAD software like Fusion 360, which has a gear generator tool available as a plugin called ‘GF Gear Generator’. Alternatively, you can use FreeCAD to design 3D printable gears.
When it comes to materials, Polymaker Polymax PC is a popular choice for those looking to 3D print gears. Polymax PC, with its high strength and durability, is perfect for printing gears with 3D printer.
In this video I talk to you about how to design and 3D print gears that are optimised for strength and durability. This is based on my experience with 3D printed gears during my Raptor 2 project. I discuss the various types of gears available such as spur, helical and herringbone. I also discuss the importance of print orientation when 3D printing gears. This video is sponsored by Polymaker. I used PolyMax Polycarbonate to 3D print the gears shown in this video.
To summarise, with the correct tools and materials, you can easily 3D print a gearbox or 3D print a planetary gearbox that is functional and reliable. Whether you're just starting out or looking to improve your existing designs, the options for 3D printing gears are endless. In addition to the advice that I provide in this video, don't hesitate to experiment with different materials, like ‘Polymaker's Polymax PC Max’ and ‘PolyMaker PolyMide’.
00:00 Intro
00:45 Why I Designed and 3D Printed Gears
02:10 How To Design Gears
02:33 Different Types of Gears
04:04 Importance of Print Orientation
05:48 Re-enforcing Smaller Gears
06:06 Full set of Printed Gears
06:28 Which material should you use?
06:53 PolyMax Polycarbonate
07:26 Sponsor - Thank you!
07:56 Bearings and Lubricant
08:12 Outro
08:35 Support Me
#3dprinting #CAD #gears
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I would recommend going 95% in stead of 100. reason being that if you have a tiny bit of overextrusion in your printer, this will compensate, and avoid outer layer blobbing, as this will make the gear teeth nearly unusable, or at least time consuming to clean up. Another reason is that when force is applied to the structure there is nowhere for the force to distribute if it's all solid, but with tiny gaps the material has a tiny space to deform slightly, mitigating some of the force running through it.
Good idea! Might also be worth printing the outer perimeters first
If you have over extrusion, try adjusting your e-steps
this hasn't been an issue in a long time
You’re right at the first part, but the part about forces distributing is complete nonsense. A 100% solid part will always take more load than something that is not 100% solid
@@jr764 Well, not always. For example, for parts that have an angle that is less than 90° have ofter an circle cut off where the angle is, because if not forces will rip the material where the acute angle is. When you cut off a circle in place of this angle, you will make a better repartition of forces and hence avoid ripping. So by removing some of material you can actually make it stronger.
Also, if you plan on driving offroad, I would definitely recommend swapping the herringbone gears for some doublehelix gears. Any dirt or substance that gets into the gears gets dragged into the centre and quickly binds up the gears, the double helix solves this because there is a gap for the dirt/grime to be pushed into. :)
Also, yes there is a difference between herringbone and double helix. And that is what I listed in the above comment. A herringbone is simply a specific type of double helix gear :)
Excellent point. Maybe an idea for Raptor 3 ;)
Question. If dirt and grime is push up one direction on a helical gear, would going in reverse push the grime in the other direction? And, if so, could you orient a herringbone gear to push grime out of the center when the car drives forward? (Since it will be going forward 90% of the time)
Same with those outrunner motors. They dont really like dirt. Some sheilds would be a good idea.
@@lio1234234 He mentions this at 3:39..
I really like this focused-collection-of-findings format. Not so much a "tutorial" that focuses on one project (just one point in a design space), but an attempt to report on how to generalize a particular technique. It would be nice if other maker-focused youtubers adopted such a format, so we could have a library of such hard-won info, organized not by integrated project but by technique.
I often ask the question why hardware/mechanical design can't get the same kind of love / support that electronics and software does. I generally thought maybe it's too specific in nature but you're right this video communicated generally
Love your content - no egocentric b.s. Just the interesing stuff. Coming up for reirement I bought a 3D printer and Wow! You don't even have to leave the house to go on a big adventure. Been subbed for a while and come to you first when I want facts. Please keep it up, you're a terrific teacher.
Thank you for the kind words Steven, much appreciated👊🏻 I agree, it is incredible what we can do from the comfort of our homes these days!
Please tell me is 1:1 greas tevhinel
Excellent delivery:
- calm, but not boring
- informative, but not overwhelmingly
Thank you for the video! Really enjoyed it.
wonderful project 👏😎
oh hey :)
I learned that there are different types of gears and why some of them are stronger than others. Good to include this sort of thing.
Really impressed by the engineering detail packed into this video - learned a lot.
Great Video! I`ve also landed on Polymaker PC Max after experimenting with Taulman Alloy 910 before, but i never put as much care into it as you. But i can vouch for their durability - i made a inner gear ring design that transferred the power of 3,5kW motors on an electric mountainboard and the gears never failed!
Thank you so much for the video on how to 3d print gears! Very straight to the point and but very detailed.
I greatly appreciate your taking the time to experiment and examine the possibilities of printing gears on a 3D printer. I have been thinking about the use of 3D printed gears in the future. My hesitency is due to the problems one gets into when producing them by any other method and comparing those issues with using various materials and 3D printing of gears. 3D printing is a new and experimental area of fabrication and so much simpler. Since it is possible to design any gear one can think of on a CAD program and rely on a 3D printer that is sophisticated and accurate enough to produce that design - well this is fantastic as I can see it. And that is the key to this - the CAD program and accurate 3D printer technologies. I didn't know if they had become available yet. I"m glad to see people like you are able to prove the subject. I will subscribe and follow along to see what develops in your shop. Thanks.
PS. One shortcoming that I is a problem for me is that I'm not good at creatively
designing a roubst gear shape using the CAD programs. I have tinkered about with some of them but I have not become proficient with any versions yet. I was hoping that by waiting for some period that some design libraries would become available to satisfy my experimentation curiosity. Good luck to you for experimentations that produce the quality that satisfies both of our needs. Bye for now.
Thank you for this video. I learned a thing or two :D today.
One thing I like is how you go from the drawing board to design the part and going to the manufacturing, where you describe how you went through the analysis of on printing the part and provide details around each of the components needed to be reviewed and looked at having the proper parameters to print the parts that would be under a large amount of stress. Typical most people would just print the parts and slap it on the RC vehicle and do not understand why the plastic part broke. I like to see how you would design a part and go through the process of printing that part on a 3D printer and what methods you use to make sense to print the part so that it would print as you would expect it to be.
This is seriously so helpful. Thank you!!
*Engineer here* You're mods for strength and print clarity are next level. If you are not already a CAD drafter, you should consider it. Some companies do not require a FE to draft.
What search terms does one use to find the jobs?
@@snorttroll4379 CAD drafting
@@snorttroll4379 Designer or Drafter, but more often search for the CAD software name (Solidworks, Creo, Fusion360, etc) for the best results. (I used to be one).
This was an amazing video, keep them coming !
Excellent advice, very well presented and scaffolded. Thank you!
Im really glad i found this channel. A mastermind and easy to understand. Cheers m8.
Great tips I learned today! Thank you, chief!
Love the reinforcing technique!
Solid video, thank you for the awesome information. You gave me some more ideas for the mini extruder I am trying to build. Thank you
Great tips, I found using nylon filament is better for strength and its much more forgiving and does not chip nearly as much as other filament I tried.
awesome info. brought me up to speed so fast. thanks. great tip on the fusion add on. Cheers.
Wonderful video! Might I suggest a solution your axel strength issue? Add fillet between your axel and the gear face if you have enough room, even a small 2-3mm fillet can exponentially reduce the stress riser created by that shoulder. Excellent work!
Really happy I discovered your channel ! Fantastic advice !!
Very informative, I learned more about 3D printed gears in ten minutes here than in my entire mechanical design program at school.
I like the fact that you are using roller bearings for your gears that are in direct contact with the motor. There is no need to use ball bearings because the forces acting on the gears in radial not axial. Plus like you said you will get less wear.
Great video with perfect level of detail
Thanks for this. Great job and very informative
Having experimented with 3D printed gears playing with the OpenRC F1 car (by D. Norée), I have to say, Herringbones are definitely way to go for 3D printing. They’re substantially quieter too.
Love your content by the way! Subscribed ✅
Well done. Thanks mate. I appreciate the gear info.
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing
Very nice, I like your way of thinking! I will take it into account in my projects. Thank you 😉
Great tips... thanks
After I builded 2 cars form 3Dsets I thinking about to design my own RC car and because I want to make some type of crawler, this video is realy helpful for me. Thanks a lot ! 😊
I 3d printed a speedometer gear with ASA for my Honda transalp 650 two weeks ago and until now it works flawlessly. Let's hope it lasts. Let's see.
Nice video 👍
Awesome presentation!
Great video, thank you. I seem to recall that the Citroen badge is based on the herringbone gear which they pioneered the use of in production cars.
That is true!
Thanks man this was very interesting
Nice! Thx!
Amazing content 👍🏾
Thanks for this
wonderful project~
was having problems with axles as well, but my solution was using nylon. less hassle than glueing them together ;)
Thanks very much for such an informative video. I'd love to see a video like this about belt drives and 3d printed sprockets too.
You're welcome Paul, thank you for watching!
This was very helpful. Subscribed and thumbs up.
Build an enclosure for your printer, upgrade hot end as needed, put in a direct drive, and print in PC (Polycarbonate). When tuned right the results are genuinely incredible. Extremely strong.
Can this be done on and Ender 3 pro?
Very brand new to the 3d printing world.
@@pogi1803 of coruse it can be done on any printer but it needs its personalised modifications
Awesome!! Thanks!!
@@pogi1803 my printer is an ender 3 pro
@@pogi1803 upgrades will take time and money however. To print PC you'd need an all metal hot end like the micro swiss, or if you want a direct drive extruder as well get a hemera. You'll need to make some changes to your firmware to accommodate the new hot end. Get an enclosure for the ender 3 on amazon. I'd say that's the minimum requirements
Nice build. Good advice.
Just a note Herringbone gears are actually quite a bit stronger than helical, because the teeth have that corner in the middle.
great video! very informative
Great video!
great video. Going to need to watch your others on modelling gears in Fusion 360. Newbie for this sort of thing.
Pretty cool!
Very interesting; I love what you did with the smaller gears by driving a screw through the center to reinforce them "along-the-printed-layers". However; since you have such a keen insight into the structural integrity of printed parts I was wondering why didn't you try the same thing with the dog-bones as you did with the smaller gears? Never the less; you are, definitely; someone to look forward to watching on youtube. Vantastic workmen ship and thank you for your brilliant insight on gears.
I know your Q was from years ago but I think he didn't need the support on the larger gears because they rotated at a much lower RPM so reinforcement wasn't needed.
great vid!
Engineering wise I highly agree with your advice on stronger gears. The only other thing that could possibly help is breaking down the gear reduction over multiple gears, similar to a counter shaft in a gearbox or planetary gear set.
Or though given that it’s rc applications it would be a rather tight fit in a chassis.
Thank you
keeping a spare nut or to on the heated bed and filling that when you purge can be fun & produce useful quick generic bits after smoothing too, dip your old stranded wire in dissolved scrap plastic and stick that in your bolts as a core infill etc, etc..
I'd suggest trying PC+PBT for the gears. It's available from Push Plastic, and probably other places. It's got the good strength from PC, but also has added self-lubrication features, and is a bit more ductile which might help on shock. I've had luck printing it on a PCB-heater bed, with an all-metal E3D V6, with just a trash back over my printer to keep the heat in. xD
I loved this video!
Cool video. Nice development of your car.
Liked-Subscribed-Notified. Very informative. Great video style. Keep up the great work!
Nylon works beautifully with gears too. Taulman 910 has given me amazing results.
Thank you so much for sharing your hard work. You are appreciated, my man.
I appreciate that! Thank you for the kind comment.
thanks
Nice one!!!
Thank you very much, very useful information! +
Thanks.
Hi, great video! Really liked the design and the comment about splitting the shafts! From your experience - what module of the gears worked best for your printer - how small can you get? Any suggestions for the glues used on the splitted shafts?
I spent a lot of time 3D printing the truggy off of thingiverse in ABS+ and the differential gears and drive train couldn’t handle the loads. I considered using polymaker pc max but it was far cheaper to use metal drivetrain using common parts. I use a ABS+ herringbone gear connected to a metal diff, and ABS+ herringbone gear that attaches to the motor and they work great! I have also enclosed those gears so they don’t get dirt in them as well! I love the tips for the shaft and gear and also the m3 bolt!
What is "ABS+" really? If it's actually ABS, then it's usually plain not suitable for gears and such mechanisms because it flakes off, it doesn't have much abrasion resistance whatsoever. Maybe it's modified with reduced butadiene amount, it might be good, as butadiene is introduced as a flake onto which graft polymerisation of styrene and nitrile occurs, which are introduced as gas, and this butadiene is on the one hand flexible, on the other forms spots at which the material can separate. If it's a modified PLA with plastifier additives, which i think one manufacturer had such misleading naming, then that's stronger, but has another issue, because the temperature resistance isn't great, and friction generates high local temperatures, and shear strength isn't even as good as regular PLA.
So i wonder what brand you used, i don't think they're likely to be particularly similar to one another.
eSun ABS+ . I have run a full battery on it and there is some wear on the gears. I need to run it some more to give a proper review of it. I would love to know how eSun have modified it.
Cool project!
Regarding improvements, look into "beaking PETG". Basically printing 100% infill and baking it in an oven (inside of salt powder), to get solid plastic part.
Don't the parts warp some despite the salt packing?
So lile table salt and heat to mwlting point?
Great video!
Thanks for sharing your experence with all of us :-)
You're most welcome, thank you for supporting me🙏🏻
You deserve more subscribers
Awesome!
Outstanding. Good luck with the design/prototype. 73
May God bless you and your gears.
Excellent video-, i found my Wood working background helped a lot in working out the best origination for printing parts that are under a heavy load, Simply because the the Grain of the wood is like the layer lines in printing-.
Thanks for the Recommendation on Polymaker Filaments-.
Great content!! We really need 4th axis filament winding type printers for parts like this. Could then print the axles and torsion tubes around a removable mandrel using vcarve or similar.
That red audio interface in the back on the desk was a steal back in the day, probably still is. My friend uses one when he makes his music, afaik. He got it was back when it came out.
Great points on filament alignment. I work in the Gear industry and your explanation of the Gear types was spot on. I am new to 3D printing and this answered some questions I had. Have you ever done a Bevel Gear?
great video
I am not even close to expirianced in printing gears, but in my little experience I found it is a good idea to use rafts. This way you do not risk warps at the edges.
You could chamfer the bottom edge very slightly in Fusion so the elephant's foot effect just pushes it out closer to being straight.
5:12 you could make an internal structure within the axis, with the shell tool or something similar, such that the axis is now built with walls instead of plain infill and you can increase the amount of walls, it would make the structure stronger
Nice build - One thing i'd recommend is using nylon instead of PC for the gears. PC is great when it comes to impact resistance, however nylon is a lot more resistant to abrasion which is essential for parts that are constantly rubbing up against each other. Furthermore, nylon has almost a sort of natural "lubricant" property to it, which should help your gears turn more freely reducing wear.
In terms of trying to print out the axle, have you tried any carbon fiber infused filaments? They could possibly work, as it adds a substantial amount of strength and rigidity to the part. Personally, i'd recommend either CF-nylon or CF-ASA for your particular application. I believe Polymaker recently just came out with their own carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament, so you should get them to send you some and try it out :)
I too think that nylon (PA) is superior... no wonder it is often used for small extruded gears.
I have no idea how I got here or what’s going on, but I am LEARNING and ENTRANCED.
This is a high grade video
Épico guachín, grax por la datación
clever idea to print the axles in other orientation for max strength
First time watching your video. Sub and will watch more! Thanks
great video bud! i'm super jealous, that rc car looks like a beast. =D
I like how at 5:32 you show the area of the piece that was printed while talking about the area of the same piece that was glued as if they were the same lol
They are the same, you can see the line where I glued them together
Your content improved my knowledge.
I'm a racepilot in 1/8 gte. What i want to ask you is how sensitive the fishbone gear is to grit particles coming from the track. 1/8 gte is raced on tarmac and is similar to a gocarrack but much shorter. We run open gears to cool down the diffs. all gears are made of highgrade steel and standard straight module 1 teeth. The ony gear we could 3d print would be the main spur gear with is driven by the motor pinion gear which is always a module 1 pinion aand extremely hard steel. PLastic gears are often used for the main pinion gear and i would say the are always made from reinforced nylon. cf or glasfibre and 8mm wide to take att grit particle or 2. The output is 2700w or so from the motor. the weight is 3800g minimum for the car. top speed is 110 kph.the issue is than the track is surrunded by grass lawn so when leaving the track (unintentionally) we get grit on the track that might upset the gears if made in plastic. 1/8gte is of couse 4wd with a cneter diff or a spurgear connected to rear and front diffs. the diffs are oilfilled to get the correct response. and the diffs get hot. Being an egnineer aswell as the goto guy for 3d printing on a school in sweden. i See potential för 3d printed gear both for racing and for students. I have been contemplating 2 or 4 motors instead of on a a projekt. just to get rid of a motor in the center 90 degrees off. This create inertia twisting the car. when 2 motors front and rear would make a better sollution. But i would us inrunners beacuse of reduced inerta and better power to weigt ratio. The escs are 180a to 220 amps a still everything gets hot. I'm guessing high temp material is the only way for a GTe car. For offroading i see an even bigger issue for the typ of car you have built. I race 1/8 buggies too... and there we always ha built in gears. the same motors are used 4068- to 4074 sensored motors. But gte takes alot more power to be competive with turbo. Heat is the worst danger to motors and esc
machinists have be 3d printed gears for years to get machines back up and running or replace missing sizes. i feel glad to see better plastics for 3d printers. your project looks amazing ,great work!!! thanks for sharing.
I am pretty sure that straight cut gears are stronger than helical ones. For example, race car transmissions use straight cut gears. And forces there are much higher. Disadvantage of straight gears is that they are much louder, that is why street cars use helical gears. But sometimes even street car transmissions have straight cut rear gear - which is also cheaper and loudness doesn't matter.
I agree on this. Was thinking exactly the same when watching this video. Straight cut gears are stronger because they put all the force into the next gear, the helical ones does put some of the force in the axial direction. But yes helical are smoother, less noise. These fishbone helical gears does not put any axial loads, only internal in the gearwheel iself, not on any bearings and so on :)
Maybee straightcut gears are weaker then helical when they are 3Dprinted in plastic material?
I would suggest two rows of ball bearings instead of roller bearings. Two rows will add rigidity and reduce the operating temperature from the increased friction of the roller bearings. This is only a suggestion. Great video.
cool stuff! Wondering if you've every worked with Taulman Alloy 910? I haven't used it in such a rigorous application as R/C gears, but in my experience it's wonderfully rugged. Performs sorta like ABS and PETG combined (but it's nylon) if that makes any sense.
I am not surprised by the fact that your small spur gears worked better after you fitted them with steel screws in them because the big big double helical gears had enough material surface area to distribute the torque tension on all over its surface during constant rotational load tension.
However, the smaller Double helical gear didn't have the material mass to handle the vibration, rotational tension and the motor torque, and wheel motion while moving the heavy RC car.
The added steel screws to the middle of Small double helical gears gave it the extra structural rigidity to allow the gears to compress and decompress onto and also handle the torque of the motor rotation to the wheels very well.
Since the gear's high rotation along with the RC Car weight would have generated more than enough strain and heat on the Small Helical gears to break them apart
[Simple fact the more surface area a gear on any material has the better heat dissipation the gear will manage to maintain but if the gear is made of plastic and has to be quite small then adding a steel or stainless steel screw that can absorb and handle the heat and high load on the gear then the lack of surface area on the small gear to handle the heat dissipation could be manageable and easy to deal with when the gear is at Load and motion].
Spur gears are used in motorsports which is easily a high load and high speed application.
Eg. Rallye, all type of motorbike and maybe F1
I agree. Spur gears are just noisy and cause vibrations but they are indeed effective for power transmission. However, for printed plastic parts the vibrations alone may be able to break the part which makes double helical gear better for this application.
This is great! Your work here would dovetail well with Makers Muse recent video testing different types of filament he was using spur gears and would benefit from your approach.
I'd be interested in seeing how you design the recesses for the roller bearings.
The entire project is open source! Check out my website and you can have a good look at the model 👍🏻
Great video! I am getting started in robot combat and have been looking at 3D printing gears for my robot's drive trains.
Have you tried using Nylon (either pure Nylon, or Nylon blended with Carbon Fiber or FIberglass), or even TPU to reduce shock back to the motor?