You have a great way of explaining things. It's like the viewers are working along side of you. You are speaking to and not at us. I only wish you were my shop teacher back in the day lol. Thank you (And thankyou for your service - I never would have guessed.)
Jason thank you so much for this video..I will be making a bed for a client soon and I bought the whole Festool connector Kit and this was so helpful…Love your channel, keep up the GREAT work you do…Also, thank you as well as your family for your service to our country… sincerely…Greg
Absolutely incredible. The work you do is second to none. If i were to have any cabinetry carried out at home, you would be the person to do it. Cheers.
I used the connectors for a TwinXP over a Queen bed setup for a client a couple years ago and they really worked well. One thing I did find necessary was to gently ease the fixed Dominos with abrasive paper for a snug, but still "slip" fit. They were too tight if the Domino stock was left as normal to knock down without using a heavy mallet. (dry-fitting was maddening...)
Great video showing how simple and easy to use the connectors! As far as strength, I can attest to that. I made an Ash conference table for a client that was 2.25 inches (56mm) thick, 6 feet (1830mm) wide, and 20 feet (6096mm) long. It also needed to be shippable. Using the connectors, the table top could break down into 4 sections 3x10. They had no trouble at all holding that beast together!
How many connectors and wooden dominoes across that table? I need to put a table together that's only 28 across, 2 inches thick. One edge is on steel and the other edge overhangs about 20" of air. I'm worried about movement vertically if someone were to sit on the tabletop at that connection.
I just finished up the mortises for the legs and apron on a white oak dining table. A few tips that made it very straight forward for me that are likely obvious to most. I first did a prototype with short scrap pieces that matched the apron and leg dimensions. I then marked up the prototype with the settings for the plunges in the leg, the end of the apron, and the back of the apron with the plate and plunge depth numbers. To keep things simple I did all of mortises of each type before resetting the 700 for the next type, using my marked up prototype to give me the numbers. My apron width was the same 108MM (4.25 inches) as the rails Jason used in his video. I also used three dominos, but I used two of the Festool connectors and one wooden domino in the center. I used the 20MM stop to set the distance for each of the connectors for the top and bottom of the apron. That allowed me to minimize the measuring and marking needed, which always creates an opportunity for user error. Since I used a wooden domino in the middle, I didn’t need to find the middle on the back of the apron to create the access hole for the anchor for the mechanical fastener. Thanks again for the video Jason. It made all of this much more understandable than the Festool instructions. Bob
another great tutorial. I got a super good deal on the 700-connector set from Amazon global just before Christmas. looking forward to trying them out on a butcherblock counter next week.
Thanks Jason for this tutorial! It def makes it easier to know how to use it! I have a coffee table and dining table personal project coming up so it would the perfect place to use the XL connector. Well coffee table may need the 500 connector but I don’t have a 500 domino (yet) Again thanks for this video!
Hi Jason. Have you ever considered becoming a teacher?? The quality of the details you show makes it so easy, even for the most inept to understand. You're nearly as good as Brian. Still a ways to go yet bud, still a ways to go. Have a good weekend.
Your video reminds me of an issue with one of my favorite shop items. I really like the Pica-Dry Pencil you use for some of the marking. Mine get used a lot because they're a jack-of-all-trades pencil. Not the most accurate, but enough for many of the uses and soft enough for legible writing without scratching. It's rarely useless. They're also rugged enough for the shop. The problem is the cover. The big green cover protects the pencil well, and the sharpener is useful. But when you're using the pencil you've got nowhere to put it. You can't stick it back on the end of the pencil and have it stay like a normal cap. You have to set it aside or clip it on yourself. My Pica-Drys often travel around the shop without regard for the location of the cover until I have to sharpen them. It's obvious in your video at 6:00 when the cover is in the background even though you're using the Pentel P205. It's a problem I have with many good tools - extra parts to track. I'm a person who has trouble staying organized. When something doesn't have a place to be, it has a risk of being anywhere. At least it's a big, easy to find part.
I use a small tool pouch and I keep my pica dry pencil in it with my other tools. The cover/sharpener stays it and the pencil goes back in it when I am not using it. You do have to use your finger to keep the cover coming out of the tool pouch but you get used to that.
@@ronh9384 This is a good idea. I haven't got a consistent tool apron or pouch. I've been inconsistent about this and it's something I need to work out.
Another excellent video thank you! Getting back to your title "Better than the lamello connectors" are then better or worse than Lamello's? Apologies if the video clarifies this question and I just missed it!
When making the middle hole for the locking mechanism, should the setting be “tight” even though the only reference is a pencil line, which when lining up the domino, it won’t be exactly in the same spot on both mating pieces?
Another great instructional video Jason! I like to install the support bracket or TSO Bigfoot bracket when referencing off the edge of a board, especially with the DF700, but probably overkill for 8/4 material. And not to be the safety police (I don’t want to be featured on #GETBENT), but I never put my hand on the backside of the board I’m plunging into, just in case I miscalculated my plunge depth.
Great video. One thing, at 5min you layout the apron center at 54mm but reference the bottom of the apron. later you measure 54mm for centerline on the leg but use a different reference. If the apron is exactly 108mm no problem but I think it better to stay consistent with the reference.
Where did you get the info to put 3 dominos for this setup? There is almost no more material left on the apron. The festool manual would say to use either two small ones or a big one in this case if I remember correctly.
amazing video please avoid using your hand as a fence like you did at 8:20. I know the thinkness you took in consideration the thinkness, but never understimate a power tool all the love amazing vid!
A good video Jason. Thanks for sharing. Some very useful tips. Does the 700XL come with a support bracket for vertical plunges? I saw your DS hatbox in the background... Did you make that? Also, your tool rack in the background... do you have a video on that? Thanks for your time. Ron
Jason, great video. I am making a white oak dining table and I need to ship it out of state. I have the 700 and was thinking I’d need to do the glue up of the legs and rails on site. My rail material is just about 1 inch thick. Before I buy the connector set, are the rails thick enough for this system? Thanks, Bob
I did some research. The Festool specs for the say you need a minimum of 30mm for the DF 700 corners connectors. An inch would be about 5mm short of that. Bob
Exactly what I was looking for thank you! I am considering the DF500. Does the DF500 connector set have this same joint capability? I know you mentioned the other channel but honestly I couldn't get through their videos. I like your content.
I have the connectors for the 500. They are very strong but not nearly as much at the 700, as would make sense. That being said, for most applications that don't require the additional strength, the smaller ones will work fine, especially when used with the regular dominos.
Hi Jason, Thank you for sharing; this was great to watch. But I'm wondering if I am understanding correctly how these things work. It is obvious to me how the first part you installed worked: the threaded connected pushes out the metal grabbers to snag the wood in the leg piece in your video. But the amount you tighten that connector piece impacts the length the eventual hole will be from that piece. This seems to me to imply that if I were to not tighten the post sufficiently then the hole in the receiving part will actually be too far distant from the set screw you install and tightening the set screw will actually secure the connector in a position that will NOT close the gap; is that correct? So the depth of the mortise in the leg piece AND the amount of tightening AND then location of the set-screw piece all need to be exactly spot on, yes? If the set screw is too close to the leg, will the set screw actually push the leg away from the apron? Hoping I am not being overly obtuse. Am I not seeing something?
Nice video. I just got my 700 and am considering getting the connectors. Quick question about the anchor and the hole. You rounded up on the plunge depth. And, you seated the anchor all the way in the hole. I was concerned the hole in the anchor wouldn’t line up with the post. I guess it’s not enough of an offset to be an issue? Thanks!
Those connectors are much more beefy that the ones I use with my DF500. BTW, you mentioned the Lamello in your title. Did I miss where you did the comparison? I would think a 14 Clamex would work pretty well, too, but I wouldn't think it would be nearly as strong as the 700 connectors.
Maybe a stupid comment.. but a LOT of videos I see who folks using good quality thick hard woods. In my area, these are stupid expensive to get. I dont know exact prices, but I'd argue that the wood to make a bed frame with this quality of wood is more expensive than buying a frame + hardware itself (though likely lesser quality wood). I am all about the enjoyment of learning/building, and would always prefer better quality wood. In my area, the big box stores sell a sheet (4x8) of 3/4" birch for $180. 10 years ago that was about $50. I know there was some wood/sourcing issues and logistics during/after covid, but almost 4x the price in just 10 years makes a LOT of projects like subwoofer boxes, cabinets, etc.. MUCH more expensive to build now. So I am often using cheap plywood which is now about $50 to $60 a sheet vs the $18 or so it used to be. I fear like just about EVERY other product that has gone WAY up due to inflation and almost across the board as proven by many lawsuits lately.. price gouging, that we wont ever see prices come back down much if at all. I will say that 8ft 2x4s were up to $11 during covid.. and are now about $3.65.. a bit above the just below $3 they used to be.. but at least affordable. One of the reasons I bought the DFW735 planer and building a flattening jig now.. hopefully able to find cheaper wood I can clean up and use because the prices just are outrageous for most home projects. Anyway.. just curious if prices for this quality of wood are much lower in say.. the mid west or south? Because for 4+ years now they have been 3x to 4x the price they used to be making things like a shoe rack cost $150+ in wood if you want quality wood.
Please, no more goofy John Malecki I’m so surprised face. Good info. Do you feel that these connectors are strong enough to use in a king size bed to attach the rails to the head and foot board?
At 8m10s, if you had set the depth wrong (which has happened to me more than once), you would have had a big problem with your fingers. Be very careful with this, please!
You have a great way of explaining things. It's like the viewers are working along side of you. You are speaking to and not at us. I only wish you were my shop teacher back in the day lol. Thank you (And thankyou for your service - I never would have guessed.)
Glad you found it helpful. Being a shop teacher actually sounds kinda fun.
Jason thank you so much for this video..I will be making a bed for a client soon and I bought the whole Festool connector Kit and this was so helpful…Love your channel, keep up the GREAT work you do…Also, thank you as well as your family for your service to our country… sincerely…Greg
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful
Just got my festool 500 domino, your videos have been extremely helpful! Thank you sir:)
You’re welcome
Honest question, how many times have you used it since you got it 2 plus years ago? 👊🏻
Absolutely incredible. The work you do is second to none. If i were to have any cabinetry carried out at home, you would be the person to do it. Cheers.
Thank you so much!!
Great little tutorial. I've been using the 500, and needed to see the differences with the 700. Thanks for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
Most instructional woodworking video I've ever watched
I used the connectors for a TwinXP over a Queen bed setup for a client a couple years ago and they really worked well. One thing I did find necessary was to gently ease the fixed Dominos with abrasive paper for a snug, but still "slip" fit. They were too tight if the Domino stock was left as normal to knock down without using a heavy mallet. (dry-fitting was maddening...)
Great video showing how simple and easy to use the connectors!
As far as strength, I can attest to that.
I made an Ash conference table for a client that was 2.25 inches (56mm) thick, 6 feet (1830mm) wide, and 20 feet (6096mm) long. It also needed to be shippable. Using the connectors, the table top could break down into 4 sections 3x10. They had no trouble at all holding that beast together!
Thank you Al
How many connectors and wooden dominoes across that table? I need to put a table together that's only 28 across, 2 inches thick. One edge is on steel and the other edge overhangs about 20" of air. I'm worried about movement vertically if someone were to sit on the tabletop at that connection.
I just finished up the mortises for the legs and apron on a white oak dining table.
A few tips that made it very straight forward for me that are likely obvious to most. I first did a prototype with short scrap pieces that matched the apron and leg dimensions. I then marked up the prototype with the settings for the plunges in the leg, the end of the apron, and the back of the apron with the plate and plunge depth numbers.
To keep things simple I did all of mortises of each type before resetting the 700 for the next type, using my marked up prototype to give me the numbers.
My apron width was the same 108MM (4.25 inches) as the rails Jason used in his video. I also used three dominos, but I used two of the Festool connectors and one wooden domino in the center. I used the 20MM stop to set the distance for each of the connectors for the top and bottom of the apron. That allowed me to minimize the measuring and marking needed, which always creates an opportunity for user error. Since I used a wooden domino in the middle, I didn’t need to find the middle on the back of the apron to create the access hole for the anchor for the mechanical fastener.
Thanks again for the video Jason. It made all of this much more understandable than the Festool instructions.
Bob
Glad you found it helpful
thank you for the very thorough explanation, very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
All your videos are awesome, great explanations, reasonable and great to watch!
Glad you like them!
another great tutorial. I got a super good deal on the 700-connector set from Amazon global just before Christmas. looking forward to trying them out on a butcherblock counter next week.
Glad you found it helpful
Awesome video Jason. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome
Thank You Jason!
You’re welcome
Great illustration with the domino. Would have liked to see how hard or easy to disassemble the joint would have been.
Thanks
You just loosen the set screw and pull it off 👍
Thanks Jason for this tutorial! It def makes it easier to know how to use it! I have a coffee table and dining table personal project coming up so it would the perfect place to use the XL connector. Well coffee table may need the 500 connector but I don’t have a 500 domino (yet)
Again thanks for this video!
You’re welcome!!
Hi Jason. Have you ever considered becoming a teacher?? The quality of the details you show makes it so easy, even for the most inept to understand. You're nearly as good as Brian. Still a ways to go yet bud, still a ways to go. Have a good weekend.
I taught Brian all his tactics 🤣🤣
@@bentswoodworking. You'll be teaching him how to turn next
Brilliant with clarity 👌
Great video/information! Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful
Great tutorial! Is there a reason to not glue the apron side of the domino?
I wanted it to be able to be completely broken down.
Your video reminds me of an issue with one of my favorite shop items.
I really like the Pica-Dry Pencil you use for some of the marking. Mine get used a lot because they're a jack-of-all-trades pencil. Not the most accurate, but enough for many of the uses and soft enough for legible writing without scratching. It's rarely useless. They're also rugged enough for the shop.
The problem is the cover. The big green cover protects the pencil well, and the sharpener is useful. But when you're using the pencil you've got nowhere to put it. You can't stick it back on the end of the pencil and have it stay like a normal cap. You have to set it aside or clip it on yourself. My Pica-Drys often travel around the shop without regard for the location of the cover until I have to sharpen them.
It's obvious in your video at 6:00 when the cover is in the background even though you're using the Pentel P205.
It's a problem I have with many good tools - extra parts to track. I'm a person who has trouble staying organized. When something doesn't have a place to be, it has a risk of being anywhere. At least it's a big, easy to find part.
I use a small tool pouch and I keep my pica dry pencil in it with my other tools. The cover/sharpener stays it and the pencil goes back in it when I am not using it. You do have to use your finger to keep the cover coming out of the tool pouch but you get used to that.
@@ronh9384 This is a good idea. I haven't got a consistent tool apron or pouch. I've been inconsistent about this and it's something I need to work out.
Great video Jason. Can you tell me where I can find the festool dog hole fence you were using? Thanks
It was part of a Systainer set that festool offered at one point
Love the info Jason! Thanks for always going into enough detail but to not overload with info!
You’re welcome
Another excellent video thank you! Getting back to your title "Better than the lamello connectors" are then better or worse than Lamello's? Apologies if the video clarifies this question and I just missed it!
When making the middle hole for the locking mechanism, should the setting be “tight” even though the only reference is a pencil line, which when lining up the domino, it won’t be exactly in the same spot on both mating pieces?
Yes, tight setting. There is some play.
what drill holder do you use on the pegboard?
It’s an OmniWall product
Hello Sir, would the 500 connectors also work for this bed application?
For the thickness of material I used, no. Max recommended material thickness for a 500 connector is 28mm if I remember correctly.
hi, great video! Is it possible to use domino 500 connectors with the 700 XL? Thank you
Can the offset also be done using the connectors to the DF500?
SO, that's how you domino.. good to know. Getting ready to buy my first domino machine
You will love it.
@@bentswoodworking I suspect you're right
Fantastic video!!! Will this work with the 12 mm bit the 700 came with?
Another great instructional video Jason! I like to install the support bracket or TSO Bigfoot bracket when referencing off the edge of a board, especially with the DF700, but probably overkill for 8/4 material. And not to be the safety police (I don’t want to be featured on #GETBENT), but I never put my hand on the backside of the board I’m plunging into, just in case I miscalculated my plunge depth.
I usually use my big foot as well. It’s great!!
Great video. One thing, at 5min you layout the apron center at 54mm but reference the bottom of the apron. later you measure 54mm for centerline on the leg but use a different reference. If the apron is exactly 108mm no problem but I think it better to stay consistent with the reference.
At time 8min you plunge the material with your hand and fingers in the line of fire.
Where did you get the info to put 3 dominos for this setup? There is almost no more material left on the apron. The festool manual would say to use either two small ones or a big one in this case if I remember correctly.
It’s not referencing anything. It’s just the way I would prefer to do it in that scenario.
amazing video
please avoid using your hand as a fence like you did at 8:20.
I know the thinkness you took in consideration the thinkness, but never understimate a power tool
all the love
amazing vid!
Yes, thanks
A good video Jason. Thanks for sharing. Some very useful tips. Does the 700XL come with a support bracket for vertical plunges?
I saw your DS hatbox in the background... Did you make that?
Also, your tool rack in the background... do you have a video on that? Thanks for your time.
Ron
I didn’t make it. My wife bought it for me while I was a drill sergeant. The wall is OmniWall
Is the drill attachment just for the 500?
What is the system you use to hold your tools in the background? Thanks for the great content!
OmniWall
@@bentswoodworking awesome thank you
Jason, great video. I am making a white oak dining table and I need to ship it out of state. I have the 700 and was thinking I’d need to do the glue up of the legs and rails on site. My rail material is just about 1 inch thick. Before I buy the connector set, are the rails thick enough for this system? Thanks, Bob
Well the mortise is 14mm so you wouldn’t have much material left. That being said, it may work. I would have to test it out
Thanks! Will do!
I did some research. The Festool specs for the say you need a minimum of 30mm for the DF 700 corners connectors. An inch would be about 5mm short of that. Bob
Exactly what I was looking for thank you! I am considering the DF500. Does the DF500 connector set have this same joint capability? I know you mentioned the other channel but honestly I couldn't get through their videos. I like your content.
Thank you!
I have the connectors for the 500. They are very strong but not nearly as much at the 700, as would make sense. That being said, for most applications that don't require the additional strength, the smaller ones will work fine, especially when used with the regular dominos.
Do you have to use the Domino 700 for this or will the 500 do the trick? Thanks, Pat
Depends on the size of the project. I use the 500 connectors as well for smaller applications.
Hi Jason, Thank you for sharing; this was great to watch. But I'm wondering if I am understanding correctly how these things work.
It is obvious to me how the first part you installed worked: the threaded connected pushes out the metal grabbers to snag the wood in the leg piece in your video.
But the amount you tighten that connector piece impacts the length the eventual hole will be from that piece. This seems to me to imply that if I were to not tighten the post sufficiently then the hole in the receiving part will actually be too far distant from the set screw you install and tightening the set screw will actually secure the connector in a position that will NOT close the gap; is that correct?
So the depth of the mortise in the leg piece AND the amount of tightening AND then location of the set-screw piece all need to be exactly spot on, yes? If the set screw is too close to the leg, will the set screw actually push the leg away from the apron?
Hoping I am not being overly obtuse. Am I not seeing something?
Nice video. I just got my 700 and am considering getting the connectors. Quick question about the anchor and the hole. You rounded up on the plunge depth. And, you seated the anchor all the way in the hole. I was concerned the hole in the anchor wouldn’t line up with the post. I guess it’s not enough of an offset to be an issue? Thanks!
Lining up is no issue as there is space to move.
Great video with some great instruction! Will the bed build be coming up on your channel?
Unfortunately not. I didn’t film any of this one.
You are going to talk me into one of these machines yet!
I’m a bad influence
Hey Jason, this question may be too broad, but what use cases are 500 connectors vs 700 connectors for? Thanks!
Size of the lumber and the specific project. Needing more holding power for this bed and lumber thickness.
Just curious if you recommend gluing the dominoes to one of the boards or leaving them dry on both sides? Thanks
I don’t think there is any need for that.
This was interesting and informative and I don't even own a Domino. Maybe someday
Glad you found it helpful
Those connectors are much more beefy that the ones I use with my DF500. BTW, you mentioned the Lamello in your title. Did I miss where you did the comparison? I would think a 14 Clamex would work pretty well, too, but I wouldn't think it would be nearly as strong as the 700 connectors.
Hm...where the Pico pencil wanish? 0.5HB on wood working?
yes geat mm/ meter system.form finland
Maybe a stupid comment.. but a LOT of videos I see who folks using good quality thick hard woods. In my area, these are stupid expensive to get. I dont know exact prices, but I'd argue that the wood to make a bed frame with this quality of wood is more expensive than buying a frame + hardware itself (though likely lesser quality wood). I am all about the enjoyment of learning/building, and would always prefer better quality wood. In my area, the big box stores sell a sheet (4x8) of 3/4" birch for $180. 10 years ago that was about $50. I know there was some wood/sourcing issues and logistics during/after covid, but almost 4x the price in just 10 years makes a LOT of projects like subwoofer boxes, cabinets, etc.. MUCH more expensive to build now. So I am often using cheap plywood which is now about $50 to $60 a sheet vs the $18 or so it used to be. I fear like just about EVERY other product that has gone WAY up due to inflation and almost across the board as proven by many lawsuits lately.. price gouging, that we wont ever see prices come back down much if at all. I will say that 8ft 2x4s were up to $11 during covid.. and are now about $3.65.. a bit above the just below $3 they used to be.. but at least affordable. One of the reasons I bought the DFW735 planer and building a flattening jig now.. hopefully able to find cheaper wood I can clean up and use because the prices just are outrageous for most home projects. Anyway.. just curious if prices for this quality of wood are much lower in say.. the mid west or south? Because for 4+ years now they have been 3x to 4x the price they used to be making things like a shoe rack cost $150+ in wood if you want quality wood.
Please, no more goofy John Malecki I’m so surprised face. Good info. Do you feel that these connectors are strong enough to use in a king size bed to attach the rails to the head and foot board?
I do
When the son turns six he needs a new bed.And dad to build a new machine!
8/4 oak bed? Will definitely survive a nuclear blast. Nice work!
Dig this
👊🏼
Those covers look like a choking hazard, in a crib.
💯💚💚👍👍
At 8m10s, if you had set the depth wrong (which has happened to me more than once), you would have had a big problem with your fingers. Be very careful with this, please!