Yeah he would be a great neighbour.He always comes across as a very community minded soul. Im.sure thats why he tries to help us shooters with excellent advice.Pity there isnt more around like him
Grasshopper always seeks the wisdom of the Master. So much so I even watch your videos on changing Toyota parts when I've never owned anything but Ford trucks!
Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpeneth iron; So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof: So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured. Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Thanks so much for your experience. I have been reloading since 1951 when my father gave me a 22 Hornet rifle and the Lyman 310 "nutcracker" tool and bags of components. He did not want me to waste ammo. I grew up in New Mexico with the great hunting in the desert and in the mountains.
Yeah i mean reloading makes sense. If you shoot allot it saves allot of money so i do it for every big calibre, the only calibres i don't reload is 22lr just because it is to time consuming and if you take the time and the price of the ammo you don't really save money and 9mm because i buy really big ammounts of it so it is pretty cheap, atleast cheap for the ammo prices these days.
Hey, I am glad that you decided to purchase an -06. Furthermore, loading optimal deer cartridges for the -06 comes at the ideal time since deer season is right around the corner. Your shooting and reloading videos are topnotch. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you for showing exactly how you apply Lee case lube. I’ve been using it after you recommended it and was using it very sparingly but clearly I have been applying way too much!
I cannot wait for some 30-06 videos, I just had mine out earlier today with some hand loads. I found out I need to practice more behind that particular rifle.
I've reformed a mess of 223 brass for my 3 different variations of 300 AAC Blackout weapons.I concur, lube can cause problems if over used. I am looking forward to your new 30-06 rifle and your videos to go with it. God bless you, the Mrs. and Benny.
Thank you for the excellent information! I always feel I learn so much from your videos. Would that all YT presenters could be this knowledgeable and present information this clearly and concisely! :-)
Thank you. I shoot one obsolete and two unique calibres which need brass to be reformed. Every bit of additional advice is much appreciated. They are the classic old 9x57 (9mm Mauser) which I best form from 8x57, quite easily. Then a 330 McFarlane, where the 9,3 Brenneke (9,3x64) is necked down to 8,4mm (the .318 Westley Richards bullet) And the 440 McFarlane where a 404 Jeffrey cylinder is necked to 11,2mm calibre instead of the 404s 10,75mm.
Let me say first I have so much to thank you for and have the utmost respect for you. Myself I'm 62 an started hand loading in my room with a Pacific press an did the family's shot gun ammo soon friends an graduated to 17 Rem an Rem 22-250 no2 i load 27 different cartridges benchshoot. So my point is I'm old school an set in the ways you have taught and instructed me alot. I believe Lee has the best equipment for hand loading except for Short Action Customs least there Dies. So I cannot believe I may have a better way or something that is a common occurrence with Lee shell lub. First it's a lengthy process for us guys that work away from home an try each night to process ammo for the weekend or stay up very late Friday night. I believe your set in your ways as well but in the last 5 to 10 years there are some awesome products out there that are way quicker an leave a very slight coating in the pours of the Brass. So if you wash your ammo or brass with a degreaser an leave to dry an do not shoot your ammo right away or your hunting ammo that may sit a year in a humiditified atmosphere it can or will end up with rusted cases. with that said you may want to wipe them down with a protection covering. Seems any longer than 3 months, and you will notice the change. With components so hard to come by these days you should protect your investments an make them last Just a tip an I thank you for your wisdom your time an money with what God has gifted you an us with. And I pray by his grace you keep it up an he gives you more ideas to teach us. I fall asleep most nights listening to your videos wish somewhere longer when it comes to dozing off ha ha. LORD BLESS YOU.
excellent information. I started reloading with an Ideal tong tool a very very long time ago, but I never stop watching and learning so thank you for you work and sharing your knowledge.
I went the other way. I helped clean up our range and someone had left a couple hundred 7mm-08 nickel-plated Winchester cases. I decapped and cleaned them, and after asking around among my circle of shooting friends, had no takers. So, I annealed them and expanded them to .308. I used a Dillon die and it worked fine, but like his Lee better for this. Now I need to trim them when I get around to it.
Wow wow wow who makes that pull string case turned thing?!?! I’ve never....oh and also thank you so much for yet ANOTHER amazing video my education is sky rocketing with your help! God bless and keep up the good work brother!
Great video as usual. Thank you for taking the time to develop these videos and share your knowledge. I believe I have watched all or most of your reloading videos. Great information. You raised a great point in this video about the head stamp on resized brass being different or wrong once re-sized. Would you share your thoughts and procedures on how you organize your used brass (once fired, twice fired etc.) and resized brass (wrong head stamp). Thanks again.
Like your videos, thanks…. Having said that regarding straight wall cases and cast Bullet loading. I would not trim .010. Short of max nor would I trim before fireforming in the rifle to be used as the brass length will shrink in the process. If the brass is shorter than the chamber a ring of lead will form in the gap between the end of the case and the end of the chamber in the case body and adversely affect accuracy.
? For you..do you have a video on neck tension or reaming necks? I've just started a few months ago watching your videos and I agree with everything you've taught. I've reloaded for around 25years and a few years as a kid helping my dad reload..lol..not reloading punching primers, trimming the simple stuff trusted to a young man who is now pushing 60 years now. Thanks for your videos!
Hey Mr. Gunblue, I was wondering if you could do a video on camouflage. I'd like to hear your opinion on the effectiveness of camouflage and whether you believe it is even necessary for a successful hunt. Maybe compare older camo to newer camo. It'd be cool if you could comment on the effectiveness of large print patterns vs. small print patterns. You could also talk about the effectiveness of leaf suits and whether they are legitimate or just a waste of money. I'd also like to hear your opinion on using plaid as camouflage. Thank you
Learning so much from your videos. The main thing I've learned is " to be prepared " so before I will purchase my first reloader ( a Lee Classic Turret System ) I've ordered TheModern Reloader Manual by Richard Lee to read and study. And Congratulations on the new 30.06 .
been loading a long time but never saw one of those handy dandy chamfering/deburring tools. that's a handy looking gadget. looking forward to seeing your '06. i shoot a rem.700 in 270 win. and a weatherby vanguard[Howa] in the '06 cheers from idaho
I have been converting .223/5.56 brass to 300 AAC Blackout. It is a somewhat lengthly process. You have to cut the shoulder and the neck off of the old cases, tumble them to clean and polish them, reform with a die, trim them to the correct length, and on some you need to turn down the thickness of the brass at the neck.
Question after the information up to 8:25: .356 and .358 WIN are very similar, the only difference being that .356 is semi rimmed while .358 is not. Can a .358 die be used to reload .356 brass? I have a Winchester lever action in .356, with about 120 rounds of ammo and some spent brass, but can't find a .356 die set.
That's a great question. Yes, I've heard that both cases have the same dimensions, but I had to search through all my many manuals to validate that statement. My trusty old #27 Hodgdon's manual that came out about the same time lists both rounds, with full dimensional drawings. Indeed, with the exception of the rim diameter and thickness, they are identical in all ways, so the same dies may be used. Hodgdon cautions that .356 brass is thicker to accommodate the weaker lever design, so maximum loads are lighter by about a grain. Use a 30-30 (#3Lee) shell holder.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you for checking it out and the info, it's much appreciated. I'm just getting started on my reloading journey, and your videos have been a great help!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, love your videos. Lee water based case lube is very effective but if I have to use it I allow it to dry before putting it through the die. Being a water based paste, I find if left in the dies it does cause rust up near the junction of the pin and nut. Fond regards from us here in Africa.
For many years I used .30-40 Krag cases, fireformed to .35 WCF and .405 WCF which resulted in cases with a short neck or short case length, but I seated bullets to the OAL for .35 WCF and .405 WCF and they worked perfectly in my grandfather's old Model 1895 Winchesters. The short neck/case makes no difference unless you need to roll crimp the cases, which you do not have to do in the box magazine of the Model 1895. I also used fireformed .30-06 cases in .35 Whelen rifles. Since then I picked up some factory cases in .35 WCF and .405. .35 Whelen is also now a factory made cartridge. Great video, thank you. Maybe you should do one on fireforming cases to enlarge neck size. I always used a light charge of a fast burning powder (Red Dot, for example), filled the case with corn meal and plugged the case with wax. These "blanks" perfectly formed cases. FYI...they are LOUD when fired. Take them outside and fire them in some area where you will not alarm the neighbors!
Done it very simply to create 257 Ackley 40 Degree shoulder from 257 Robert’s brass. . Leave you a nice case like the weatherby overbore style . Thinking about using 22-250 cases to recreate its mother, the 250/3000 Savage .
@@vonmajor I have a nice Ruger Model 77 RSI (International model with Mannlicher style stock) in .250 Savage (AKA .250-3000) and I haven't ever had to bother making cases for it. I have plenty and they can be easily found if you search the internet. 250 Savage is still listed as a factory loading by Remington and Hornady. Gunbroker has a couple dozen offerings of it for sale and Ventura Munitions has some in stock. Unless one had a stock of .22-250 cases on hand (and maybe you do) I would prefer buying some factory ammo and just using the empty cases. (I always prefer proper headstamps) At one time I fireformed .30-06 to make .35 Whelen but that was before the .35 Whelen was factory loaded. I built a .35 Whelen in the 60s on a Mauser '98 action and had to make my own cases until Remington factory loaded it. FYI, if you didn't already know, any of the Ackley Improved cases can be made by firing the standard parent cartridge in the improved chamber. No need for a special "fireforming" load, just fire loaded ammunition of the parent case in the AI chamber.
I need help, I am putting on 7mm x 300 weatherby, I will resize with 300 weatherby die, what's the easiest way to get the neck to 7mm, thanks, I think your videos are excellent, thanks.
Great video . I have an old 6.5 sweed with a 17.7 " barrel . Can you tell me if they have a military tappered barrel so consiquentually you can't set you distance off the lands like a civilian barrel ?
I'm not exactly certain if I understand your question, but I'll give a shot. Before Germany lightened their 8mm bullets, most military rifles were chambered for long, heavy bullets that necessitated long throats and quick rifling twists. Such was the case with the 6.5 Swede. As such, shorter, more modern bullets have a very long jump to engage the lands. That's really not a bad situation, because accuracy is generally still quite acceptable throughout the range of bullets. Close contact is a very important issue for the utmost accuracy, but the vast majority of commercial ammunition is set very far back from the lands, and generally performs quite well. It's not uncommon for factory loaded ammo, even in such accurate varmint calibers as the 22-250 and 243 Winchester to be seated so deeply that they are over 3/16" from the rifling. Accuracy with military rifles with their tightly strapped, fully stocked barrels is generally established as 3 to 4 MOA, so any better performance is indeed a bonus.
Good video. Thanks. My own reforming has only been making 7x57 and 8x57 cases from .30-'06. The 7x57 are problem free, but the 8x57 are problematic. Often in the 8x57 during the final sizing operation the expander ball will pull the shoulder forward as it is extracted. I've come up with few work-arounds, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Expander ball may your the red flag. I'm no pro, but if you've read Richard Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd edition you'll hear him caution against any type of expander "ball". Hence the long gradual taper of the easy-x-expander gun blue is using here and promotes.
@@charlierich9840 : In this particular case the problem comes when the expander ball is extracted. If I do the final form without the expander ball, the case length is good. If I do it with the expander ball, the length is too long. If I do it without, and then in a separate operation push the expander through it usually, but not always comes out good. Maybe annealing at some stage would help, or maybe just using a Lyman M die to expand the case necks.
Hi there, Could you please do a video about how to get (form) 6mm Remington out of different available size case. I’m sure all of that people like me that owns 6mm rem will appreciate a lot. Thanks for sharing your experience
I am forming 219 Donaldson from 25-35 cases. I have used the RCBS forming dies and now I would like to know how to determine the powder charge to blow out the case. I will use the cream of wheat probably. Can i just do it with out a bullet in the case? Many thanks
When reforming cases how does it affect the powder charge? Is the internal dimensions of the case reformed enough to safety use the new caliber powder charges?
What case can I use to reform into 270 WSM? I had a guy Josef Jennings steak $97.50 for 100 WSM casings. I teach science and coach in Pecos, TX and I like lab experiments like this. Thank you for your knowledge and light...
Technically, the various super short magnums are based on the old .404 Jeffrey, but good luck finding a bunch of those! And, you'll be many hours gradually coaxing that huge case down to .270, with much reaming. They can be made by necking down the .300 WSM, but getting those are no easier than getting them in .270. Low case availability and high cost, along with additional barrel erosion of the WSM is why I remain a .270 Winchester adherent. See my recent 6.8 Western video.
I did a video on that topic some time ago. A donut is thick brass of the shoulder or body material that becomes the new neck. It's generally not a concern when working with sister cases that are simply necked up or down. You must always use an inside neck reamer to remove excess material from shortened cases because tapered, thick brass is involved. I recommend a Forster trimmer with a caliber specific inside neck reamer. They also provide an outside neck turner that fits the same trimmer, and does a good job, with good leverage. I've done certain radical reforming that has required intermediate annealing and reforming along with intermediate reaming, as when making 22-250 cases from 30-06 or 270 brass.
Need some help fire forming brass . Wanting to convert 9.3 mm x 74R into 410 ga I dont know how figure power charge with 231w powder ( its what i have) I dont know how hard to pack the cream of wheat . Is there a book i could read how to do because folks may not want to take the liability of tell how to do it. Is pressure gas releases out the area of the chamber where the firing pin normal until the brass is completely fire formed or is my powder charge too low . I have a lot of questions but dont know who or where to get the answers . Thanks for all information that is shared .
Gunblue490, I'd like your opinion on a topic, and I am sure others would like to hear it as well, about your opinion of Col. Jeff Cooper and his Scout Rifle concept from the late 80's. Back then, this seemed very interesting. It is said by some that the popularity of AR and M4 clones, which were American made and much cheaper, reduced interest in the Scout in favor of the AR platform. To me, it seemed a kind of apocalypse gun with an international supply of 7.62 ammo, light weight, integral bipod and magazine storage, and sighting system redundancy, Being too expensive for a guy with three growing boys, it was out of my reach. Eventually, I felt that the scout would have been more popular if an American company had produced it rather than Steyr of Austria. Also, Cooper had very strong opinions about everything to do with firearms and we folks that shoot them. I really enjoyed the "Cooper's Corner" article at the back of Guns and Ammo magazine every month. What say you? Was he a hard headed blowhard or insightful gun guru? What would he have thought about today's explosion of AR variants and calibers?
Ran across you and this video while looking for videos regarding annealing. Although this came up in regards to annealing but ended up being about reforming brass, I decided to watch it anyways. lol Only question I have is, the little pull string device you have and used to chamfer and deburr the neck to save your fingers. Could you give me some more info on that little dohicky? Brand, model #, is it even still available? Thanks in advance... Never mind, I found it. And it appears it's been discontinued. Bummer.
Yet another excellent and very informative video! What do you recommend for a case trimming tool? There’s quite a few options on the market, I want something simple that won’t break the bank.
The Forster I used has been trimming, neck turning, and reaming cases since 1971, non stop. It's considered the industry standard. I personally wouldn't buy anything else. However, I have used that Lee pull cord unit to trim cases and it does certainly work, with just as good accuracy, which is based on their simple hand trimmer. However, it requires decapping before you can trim, which is a bit of nuisance. I believe that Lee has recently introduced another more advanced trimming system. I'd check their catalog if you can't afford the Forster. Good luck.
I consider the Swede the best of the 6.5mm rounds, and a very capable hunting round for game up to Caribou. It has excellent velocity, on par with the 260 Remington and 6.5 Creedmoor, but does so with far less internal pressure, which is beneficial to case and barrel life all around. Because it has greater case capacity, it can produce even higher velocities if required, in modern firearms. The 120 grain bullet weight is perfect for deer, with terrific ballistics, and the 140 is ideal for heavier game. Yes, it is very low in recoil compared to many other cartridges. Recoil is a subject I covered in another video, which is easily compared with a mathematical calculation I provided.
Bear in mind, the Swede was designed around the German Mauser action- midway in length between the American Short and long actions. The Swede is 4mm (0.1575 inches) longer than the standard 260 Rem. case's 51mm, the length the short action was designed around. If your gun is a short action, you'll have a more limited selection of bullet lengths to use because of the magazine and overall length allowed. If you seat a 140 gn. bullet into the case body to magazine length, it will reduce the case powder capacity; if you run the bullet out to its spec length, it would be too long for short action magazines. Imho, if you will just shoot factory loads with lower ballistic coefficient bullets, go short action; if you reload and want higher bc bullets, go long action.
Sir, I'm doing a series of videos on reviving antique (1927-1953) military 39.06 brass, and giving it renewed life. However, some of the brass that I received had split necks, and I just can't bring myself to discard these old soldiers. I was thinking about resisizing these to .243. Your help would be appreciated. Thank you for your years of helpful videos
All cases of that era were charged with corrosive primers. When fired, the murcuric salts permanently crystalized that brass from within and made it brittle. You cannot safety load that brass again, and there's no way it is ductile enough to reform. One of the 30-06 rifles I spoke of was permanently damaged. I had reloaded a batch of 1938 vintage 30-06 Rockford Arsenal brass, and immediately, two of them split across the web on firing. The escaping gas cut into the chamber wall and left a pit that subsequent cases bulged into and shaved off when extracted. Such damage cannot be repaired. Please take my advice and give those old soldiers a good burial.
@@GunBlue490 thank you for your advice. I hadn't given thought about the corrosive primers changing the properties of the brass. Your warning is well heeded.
Why is it that as I watch your videos you have the exact same equipment as me. We must of shopped at the same place over the years. I love Hand Tools . Same block same brush holder .
Very odd that my Lee 308 WIN full length sizing die has an expander ball instead of a tapered expanding shaft. Although, my die is old. It was my grandfathers die.
Help? I just resized some 308 brass to 7mm08, and everything went well and according to plan until I tried chambering the 1st test rounds. The case necks are thick, and require a good bit of force to close the bolt on them, but it does close. The cases are a little shorter than spec, but I got the COAL to spec. I am not sure if they are safe to shoot like this. Are there any ways to thin the neck if I don't have a neck turner? I'm not sure I saw another video where your reformed cases had this issue. Admittedly, it was once fired brass, and I did not anneal it prior to resizing, perhaps annealing would have made the difference? Other thoughts? Thanks again, I've learned tons from you over the last year since I discovered your channel.
I have a question I have an RCBS uniflow powder measure that is extremely inconsistent with certain certain powders. I find myself hand measuring each load which gives great accuracy but very not much fun. is there a good universal powder measure that is easy to use, accurate, and affordable? Thanks for another great video
Some years ago, RCBS changed their drum sizes in order to force sales of both drums. My small drum measures with great accuracy because it has a small surface area to cut off, but still handles cases from the smallest pistol up to 30-06. If I need a larger charge for my 300 Win Mag, I simply throw two half charges, rather than use a large drum with a wide surface area to cut. The diameter of the hole is critical to the accuracy of the charge, and it's impossible to get an accurate drop with a wide diameter hole. You may find that using your small drum exclusively with doubled half charges will provide great consistency. If not, find a measure that has a small drum capacity of 55 to 60 grains. Lyman's measure was once considered a good one, and it has a knocker to keep coarse powders from bridging. I don't know what your measure is giving for accuracy, but as a reference, mine drops virtually all spherical powders to less than a half tenth grain, short extruded powders like H332 and R-15 to plus or minus one tenth; generally less, medium coarse powders like IMR4064 and IMR4350 within plus or minus one tenth, and difficult coarse powders like H4831 to within plus or minus two tenths. That may sound like a lot, but such slow burning extruded powders are insensitive to rather large differences in charge weights, and will shoot accurately anyway. Watch my bench shooting video from last summer with my 257 Roberts. Those rounds were dropped charges of very difficult H4831, directly from my measure, and groups don't get any nicer. I may be doing a video on powder charge accuracy soon.
I reformed some Match brass from 30-06 to 35 Whelen. I had the brass and didn't have to go out and buy brass. How far are you from Riley's? I was in High School when I talked to Bill when he was still at the store. You have great videos
I wish to God this man was my next-door neighbor!
We are so lucky to watch his video !
Yeah he would be a great neighbour.He always comes across as a very community minded soul. Im.sure thats why he tries to help us shooters with excellent advice.Pity there isnt more around like him
Thank you Mr.GunBlue490 for your videoes. I am very thankful for your content.
I learn something practical and realistic every time I watch this guy. There is so much bad information out there, but this guy is gold.
Nothing but wisdom comes from this fine gentleman :)
Wow,ive been reloading for 20 yrs,this guy is on a different level.
Grasshopper always seeks the wisdom of the Master. So much so I even watch your videos on changing Toyota parts when I've never owned anything but Ford trucks!
Great video as always, you are my guru for guns and reloading information
Proverbs 27:17
Iron sharpeneth iron;
So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend.
Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof:
So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured.
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Thanks so much for your experience. I have been reloading since 1951 when my father gave me a 22 Hornet rifle and the Lyman 310 "nutcracker" tool and bags of components. He did not want me to waste ammo. I grew up in New Mexico with the great hunting in the desert and in the mountains.
Yeah i mean reloading makes sense. If you shoot allot it saves allot of money so i do it for every big calibre, the only calibres i don't reload is 22lr just because it is to time consuming and if you take the time and the price of the ammo you don't really save money and 9mm because i buy really big ammounts of it so it is pretty cheap, atleast cheap for the ammo prices these days.
My son and I love your videos! Clean and so informative are a rare combination. Keep up the good work sir and God bless!
Hey, I am glad that you decided to purchase an -06. Furthermore, loading optimal deer cartridges for the -06 comes at the ideal time since deer season is right around the corner. Your shooting and reloading videos are topnotch. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You are a great deal of knowledge for all reloading categories. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us all.
The way you explain and then actually do it is fantastic mate. It is all so easy after checken in with you. G'day from South Australia. 👍
G'day mate. Thanks.
Reloading does come in handy
Thank you for showing exactly how you apply Lee case lube. I’ve been using it after you recommended it and was using it very sparingly but clearly I have been applying way too much!
I cannot wait for some 30-06 videos, I just had mine out earlier today with some hand loads.
I found out I need to practice more behind that particular rifle.
Great videos you are the reason I reload you give the information or where to get it. Thank you
Thank you. I am educating myself on resizing brass. I just had a 25/06 Ackley Improved made and I am told I should use good 270win brass to resize.
I've reformed a mess of 223 brass for my 3 different variations of 300 AAC Blackout weapons.I concur, lube can cause problems if over used. I am looking forward to your new 30-06 rifle and your videos to go with it. God bless you, the Mrs. and Benny.
Thanks very much. Very good to be here.
Thank you for the excellent information! I always feel I learn so much from your videos. Would that all YT presenters could be this knowledgeable and present information this clearly and concisely! :-)
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge!
Thank you. I shoot one obsolete and two unique calibres which need brass to be reformed. Every bit of additional advice is much appreciated.
They are the classic old 9x57 (9mm Mauser) which I best form from 8x57, quite easily.
Then a 330 McFarlane, where the 9,3 Brenneke (9,3x64) is necked down to 8,4mm (the .318 Westley Richards bullet)
And the 440 McFarlane where a 404 Jeffrey cylinder is necked to 11,2mm calibre instead of the 404s 10,75mm.
Another great video Sir! Thanks so much! I am really looking forward to the next video. BLESSINGS in CHRIST
Let me say first I have so much to thank you for and have the utmost respect for you. Myself I'm 62 an started hand loading in my room with a Pacific press an did the family's shot gun ammo soon friends an graduated to 17 Rem an Rem 22-250 no2 i load 27 different cartridges benchshoot. So my point is I'm old school an set in the ways you have taught and instructed me alot. I believe Lee has the best equipment for hand loading except for Short Action Customs least there Dies. So I cannot believe I may have a better way or something that is a common occurrence with Lee shell lub. First it's a lengthy process for us guys that work away from home an try each night to process ammo for the weekend or stay up very late Friday night. I believe your set in your ways as well but in the last 5 to 10 years there are some awesome products out there that are way quicker an leave a very slight coating in the pours of the Brass. So if you wash your ammo or brass with a degreaser an leave to dry an do not shoot your ammo right away or your hunting ammo that may sit a year in a humiditified atmosphere it can or will end up with rusted cases. with that said you may want to wipe them down with a protection covering. Seems any longer than 3 months, and you will notice the change. With components so hard to come by these days you should protect your investments an make them last Just a tip an I thank you for your wisdom your time an money with what God has gifted you an us with. And I pray by his grace you keep it up an he gives you more ideas to teach us. I fall asleep most nights listening to your videos wish somewhere longer when it comes to dozing off ha ha. LORD BLESS YOU.
excellent information. I started reloading with an Ideal tong tool a very very long time ago, but I never stop watching and learning so thank you for you work and sharing your knowledge.
Great video! Loved the presentation and clarity of instruction. Good health to you and your family during this very interesting times.
Thank you very Much for your tips. . .! God Bless you and Yours !!! & that rascal Mr. ~Benny.~
I do the same but with .308 to .7mm-08. Love GunBlue and wish he also had a book!
I went the other way. I helped clean up our range and someone had left a couple hundred 7mm-08 nickel-plated Winchester cases. I decapped and cleaned them, and after asking around among my circle of shooting friends, had no takers. So, I annealed them and expanded them to .308. I used a Dillon die and it worked fine, but like his Lee better for this. Now I need to trim them when I get around to it.
Thank you for all your great video's and God Bless you and your wife and Benny also.
I reformed .223 to 6.5 TCU, it worked great. It seems as if sizing up, works better than sizing down.
Thank you for posting all this info on youtube, it is helpful for a lot of us. Congrats on the new rifle.
Wow wow wow who makes that pull string case turned thing?!?! I’ve never....oh and also thank you so much for yet ANOTHER amazing video my education is sky rocketing with your help! God bless and keep up the good work brother!
Great video as usual. Thank you for taking the time to develop these videos and share your knowledge. I believe I have watched all or most of your reloading videos. Great information.
You raised a great point in this video about the head stamp on resized brass being different or wrong once re-sized. Would you share your thoughts and procedures on how you organize your used brass (once fired, twice fired etc.) and resized brass (wrong head stamp). Thanks again.
Thank you GunBlue,. Another video textbook. The Annealing video you made awhile ago is epic, and is a great companion vid with this one.
Great advice in here and works very well for 6.5 creed to 6mm creedmoor as well.
When it comes to chamfering , there's no cutting corners.
Clever! Do you work for the Department of Redundancy Department? Inquiring minds want to know.
true
That is funny, I don't care what anyone says.
You fonny Petersan!😂
Excellent instructions Sir, I perform a similar operation making cases for my 6.5 Spence from .257 Roberts. God bless you.
Great video, I routinely convert 270 to 30-06 or vice versa. This is a good thing to know how to do, some folks loose their minds over this
I have an RCBS for Die set made specifically to convert 308 to 300 Savage. Haven’t used it yet but I’m hoping it works well.
Same here, will be trying it for this season.
Thank you for passing on your knowledge
I wish I didn’t have to watch sixteen ads to watch his videos! It’s over the top.
Terrific. Thanks. 'The Reloading Room' is a good take on shooting verbiage.
Excellent content. Would love to see a video of you talking in depth about some of your handguns and the reason you chose the caliber for it.
Another fantastic video from the best gun channel on RUclips...keep up the great work👍 God bless.
Like your videos, thanks….
Having said that regarding straight wall cases and cast Bullet loading.
I would not trim .010. Short of max nor would I trim before fireforming in the rifle to be used as the brass length will shrink in the process.
If the brass is shorter than the chamber a ring of lead will form in the gap between the end of the case and the end of the chamber in the case body and adversely affect accuracy.
a wonderful tutorial. thank you.
Great 👍 video 🇺🇸
Thanks for what you do. I'm enjoying your videos very much
? For you..do you have a video on neck tension or reaming necks? I've just started a few months ago watching your videos and I agree with everything you've taught. I've reloaded for around 25years and a few years as a kid helping my dad reload..lol..not reloading punching primers, trimming the simple stuff trusted to a young man who is now pushing 60 years now. Thanks for your videos!
Hey Mr. Gunblue, I was wondering if you could do a video on camouflage. I'd like to hear your opinion on the effectiveness of camouflage and whether you believe it is even necessary for a successful hunt. Maybe compare older camo to newer camo. It'd be cool if you could comment on the effectiveness of large print patterns vs. small print patterns. You could also talk about the effectiveness of leaf suits and whether they are legitimate or just a waste of money. I'd also like to hear your opinion on using plaid as camouflage.
Thank you
Learning so much from your videos. The main thing I've learned is " to be prepared " so before I will purchase my first reloader ( a Lee Classic Turret System ) I've ordered TheModern Reloader Manual by Richard Lee to read and study. And Congratulations on the new 30.06 .
I have been using the Lee lube people and he’s right! It’s excellent!
Thanks for the good info, I have tried reforming brass with no tools by scaring it straight but it never worked.
been loading a long time but never saw one of those handy dandy chamfering/deburring tools. that's a handy looking gadget. looking forward to seeing your '06. i shoot a rem.700 in 270 win. and a weatherby vanguard[Howa] in the '06 cheers from idaho
I have been converting .223/5.56 brass to 300 AAC Blackout. It is a somewhat lengthly process. You have to cut the shoulder and the neck off of the old cases, tumble them to clean and polish them, reform with a die, trim them to the correct length, and on some you need to turn down the thickness of the brass at the neck.
Thank you! Very informative and I appreciate your time / effort in making this video 👌 fantastic 👏 👍
Thanks for sharing your information and videos.
always great stuff!
Question after the information up to 8:25: .356 and .358 WIN are very similar, the only difference being that .356 is semi rimmed while .358 is not. Can a .358 die be used to reload .356 brass? I have a Winchester lever action in .356, with about 120 rounds of ammo and some spent brass, but can't find a .356 die set.
That's a great question. Yes, I've heard that both cases have the same dimensions, but I had to search through all my many manuals to validate that statement. My trusty old #27 Hodgdon's manual that came out about the same time lists both rounds, with full dimensional drawings. Indeed, with the exception of the rim diameter and thickness, they are identical in all ways, so the same dies may be used. Hodgdon cautions that .356 brass is thicker to accommodate the weaker lever design, so maximum loads are lighter by about a grain. Use a 30-30 (#3Lee) shell holder.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you for checking it out and the info, it's much appreciated. I'm just getting started on my reloading journey, and your videos have been a great help!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, love your videos.
Lee water based case lube is very effective but if I have to use it I allow it to dry before putting it through the die. Being a water based paste, I find if left in the dies it does cause rust up near the junction of the pin and nut.
Fond regards from us here in Africa.
For many years I used .30-40 Krag cases, fireformed to .35 WCF and .405 WCF which resulted in cases with a short neck or short case length, but I seated bullets to the OAL for .35 WCF and .405 WCF and they worked perfectly in my grandfather's old Model 1895 Winchesters. The short neck/case makes no difference unless you need to roll crimp the cases, which you do not have to do in the box magazine of the Model 1895. I also used fireformed .30-06 cases in .35 Whelen rifles. Since then I picked up some factory cases in .35 WCF and .405. .35 Whelen is also now a factory made cartridge.
Great video, thank you. Maybe you should do one on fireforming cases to enlarge neck size. I always used a light charge of a fast burning powder (Red Dot, for example), filled the case with corn meal and plugged the case with wax. These "blanks" perfectly formed cases. FYI...they are LOUD when fired. Take them outside and fire them in some area where you will not alarm the neighbors!
Done it very simply to create 257 Ackley 40 Degree shoulder from 257 Robert’s brass. . Leave you a nice case like the weatherby overbore style . Thinking about using 22-250 cases to recreate its mother, the 250/3000 Savage .
@@vonmajor I have a nice Ruger Model 77 RSI (International model with Mannlicher style stock) in .250 Savage (AKA .250-3000) and I haven't ever had to bother making cases for it.
I have plenty and they can be easily found if you search the internet. 250 Savage is still listed as a factory loading by Remington and Hornady. Gunbroker has a couple dozen offerings of it for sale and Ventura Munitions has some in stock.
Unless one had a stock of .22-250 cases on hand (and maybe you do) I would prefer buying some factory ammo and just using the empty cases. (I always prefer proper headstamps)
At one time I fireformed .30-06 to make .35 Whelen but that was before the .35 Whelen was factory loaded.
I built a .35 Whelen in the 60s on a Mauser '98 action and had to make my own cases until Remington factory loaded it.
FYI, if you didn't already know, any of the Ackley Improved cases can be made by firing the standard parent cartridge in the improved chamber. No need for a special "fireforming" load, just fire loaded ammunition of the parent case in the AI chamber.
Have you done a video showing the reaming of the case necks you mentioned?
No, I have not. I may one of these days.
I need help, I am putting on 7mm x 300 weatherby, I will resize with 300 weatherby die, what's the easiest way to get the neck to 7mm, thanks, I think your videos are excellent, thanks.
Great video . I have an old 6.5 sweed with a 17.7 " barrel . Can you tell me if they have a military tappered barrel so consiquentually you can't set you distance off the lands like a civilian barrel ?
I'm not exactly certain if I understand your question, but I'll give a shot. Before Germany lightened their 8mm bullets, most military rifles were chambered for long, heavy bullets that necessitated long throats and quick rifling twists. Such was the case with the 6.5 Swede. As such, shorter, more modern bullets have a very long jump to engage the lands. That's really not a bad situation, because accuracy is generally still quite acceptable throughout the range of bullets. Close contact is a very important issue for the utmost accuracy, but the vast majority of commercial ammunition is set very far back from the lands, and generally performs quite well. It's not uncommon for factory loaded ammo, even in such accurate varmint calibers as the 22-250 and 243 Winchester to be seated so deeply that they are over 3/16" from the rifling. Accuracy with military rifles with their tightly strapped, fully stocked barrels is generally established as 3 to 4 MOA, so any better performance is indeed a bonus.
Great video, great instruction! I can only take a guess as to who disliked this video...........
Good video. Thanks. My own reforming has only been making 7x57 and 8x57 cases from .30-'06. The 7x57 are problem free, but the 8x57 are problematic. Often in the 8x57 during the final sizing operation the expander ball will pull the shoulder forward as it is extracted. I've come up with few work-arounds, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Expander ball may your the red flag. I'm no pro, but if you've read Richard Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd edition you'll hear him caution against any type of expander "ball". Hence the long gradual taper of the easy-x-expander gun blue is using here and promotes.
@@charlierich9840 : In this particular case the problem comes when the expander ball is extracted. If I do the final form without the expander ball, the case length is good. If I do it with the expander ball, the length is too long. If I do it without, and then in a separate operation push the expander through it usually, but not always comes out good.
Maybe annealing at some stage would help, or maybe just using a Lyman M die to expand the case necks.
Hi there, Could you please do a video about how to get (form) 6mm Remington out of different available size case. I’m sure all of that people like me that owns 6mm rem will appreciate a lot. Thanks for sharing your experience
What make is your case length cutter? I like that it does not require different shell holders and it looks to be quicker to change out cases.
A good, instructive video. Thank you!
Thank you Sir. GOD bless you also.
Thank you very much ! Sir!
Reforming brass is not something I would likely do but nevertheless an interesting video. Thank you sir. Regards from Australia.
It's actually a very common practice, and is the heart of the wildcat cartridge. Thank you!
I am forming 219 Donaldson from 25-35 cases. I have used the RCBS forming dies and now I would like to know how to determine the powder charge to blow out the case. I will use the cream of wheat probably. Can i just do it with out a bullet in the case? Many thanks
When reforming cases how does it affect the powder charge? Is the internal dimensions of the case reformed enough to safety use the new caliber powder charges?
ALWAYS AWESOME INFORMATION!! Love learning from you!
What's the name of the tool used to easily chamfer the brass at 23:01 in the video?
Thanks for the advise. Does brass brands make a difference on loads, pressure & precision ?
Hi gunblue, I recently came into a 350 rem mag. Since I have never resized a case can I resize a 7mm rem mag to 350 with the 350 rem mag die. Thanks
What case can I use to reform into 270 WSM? I had a guy Josef Jennings steak $97.50 for 100 WSM casings. I teach science and coach in Pecos, TX and I like lab experiments like this. Thank you for your knowledge and light...
Technically, the various super short magnums are based on the old .404 Jeffrey, but good luck finding a bunch of those! And, you'll be many hours gradually coaxing that huge case down to .270, with much reaming.
They can be made by necking down the .300 WSM, but getting those are no easier than getting them in .270. Low case availability and high cost, along with additional barrel erosion of the WSM is why I remain a .270 Winchester adherent.
See my recent 6.8 Western video.
It would be nice if you added information about neck turning and how to deal with donuts when case forming.
I did a video on that topic some time ago. A donut is thick brass of the shoulder or body material that becomes the new neck. It's generally not a concern when working with sister cases that are simply necked up or down. You must always use an inside neck reamer to remove excess material from shortened cases because tapered, thick brass is involved. I recommend a Forster trimmer with a caliber specific inside neck reamer. They also provide an outside neck turner that fits the same trimmer, and does a good job, with good leverage. I've done certain radical reforming that has required intermediate annealing and reforming along with intermediate reaming, as when making 22-250 cases from 30-06 or 270 brass.
Need some help fire forming brass . Wanting to convert 9.3 mm x 74R into 410 ga
I dont know how figure power charge with 231w powder ( its what i have)
I dont know how hard to pack the cream of wheat .
Is there a book i could read how to do because folks may not want to take the liability of tell how to do it.
Is pressure gas releases out the area of the chamber where the firing pin normal until the brass is completely fire formed or is my powder charge too low .
I have a lot of questions but dont know who or where to get the answers .
Thanks for all information that is shared .
Gunblue490, I'd like your opinion on a topic, and I am sure others would like to hear it as well, about your opinion of Col. Jeff Cooper and his Scout Rifle concept from the late 80's. Back then, this seemed very interesting. It is said by some that the popularity of AR and M4 clones, which were American made and much cheaper, reduced interest in the Scout in favor of the AR platform. To me, it seemed a kind of apocalypse gun with an international supply of 7.62 ammo, light weight, integral bipod and magazine storage, and sighting system redundancy,
Being too expensive for a guy with three growing boys, it was out of my reach. Eventually, I felt that the scout would have been more popular if an American company had produced it rather than Steyr of Austria. Also, Cooper had very strong opinions about everything to do with firearms and we folks that shoot them. I really enjoyed the "Cooper's Corner" article at the back of Guns and Ammo magazine every month. What say you? Was he a hard headed blowhard or insightful gun guru? What would he have thought about today's explosion of AR variants and calibers?
Ran across you and this video while looking for videos regarding annealing. Although this came up in regards to annealing but ended up being about reforming brass, I decided to watch it anyways. lol
Only question I have is, the little pull string device you have and used to chamfer and deburr the neck to save your fingers. Could you give me some more info on that little dohicky? Brand, model #, is it even still available? Thanks in advance... Never mind, I found it. And it appears it's been discontinued. Bummer.
Yet another excellent and very informative video!
What do you recommend for a case trimming tool? There’s quite a few options on the market, I want something simple that won’t break the bank.
The Forster I used has been trimming, neck turning, and reaming cases since 1971, non stop. It's considered the industry standard. I personally wouldn't buy anything else. However, I have used that Lee pull cord unit to trim cases and it does certainly work, with just as good accuracy, which is based on their simple hand trimmer. However, it requires decapping before you can trim, which is a bit of nuisance. I believe that Lee has recently introduced another more advanced trimming system. I'd check their catalog if you can't afford the Forster. Good luck.
GunBlue490, thank you, I’ll check it out.
What are your thoughts on the 6.5x55 swede? Im told its a sweet low recoil hunting round.
I consider the Swede the best of the 6.5mm rounds, and a very capable hunting round for game up to Caribou. It has excellent velocity, on par with the 260 Remington and 6.5 Creedmoor, but does so with far less internal pressure, which is beneficial to case and barrel life all around. Because it has greater case capacity, it can produce even higher velocities if required, in modern firearms. The 120 grain bullet weight is perfect for deer, with terrific ballistics, and the 140 is ideal for heavier game. Yes, it is very low in recoil compared to many other cartridges. Recoil is a subject I covered in another video, which is easily compared with a mathematical calculation I provided.
@@GunBlue490 wow. Thank you. 👍👍 Have a great night.
Bear in mind, the Swede was designed around the German Mauser action- midway in length between the American Short and long actions. The Swede is 4mm (0.1575 inches) longer than the standard 260 Rem. case's 51mm, the length the short action was designed around. If your gun is a short action, you'll have a more limited selection of bullet lengths to use because of the magazine and overall length allowed. If you seat a 140 gn. bullet into the case body to magazine length, it will reduce the case powder capacity; if you run the bullet out to its spec length, it would be too long for short action magazines. Imho, if you will just shoot factory loads with lower ballistic coefficient bullets, go short action; if you reload and want higher bc bullets, go long action.
Sir, I'm doing a series of videos on reviving antique (1927-1953) military 39.06 brass, and giving it renewed life. However, some of the brass that I received had split necks, and I just can't bring myself to discard these old soldiers. I was thinking about resisizing these to .243. Your help would be appreciated. Thank you for your years of helpful videos
All cases of that era were charged with corrosive primers. When fired, the murcuric salts permanently crystalized that brass from within and made it brittle. You cannot safety load that brass again, and there's no way it is ductile enough to reform. One of the 30-06 rifles I spoke of was permanently damaged. I had reloaded a batch of 1938 vintage 30-06 Rockford Arsenal brass, and immediately, two of them split across the web on firing. The escaping gas cut into the chamber wall and left a pit that subsequent cases bulged into and shaved off when extracted. Such damage cannot be repaired. Please take my advice and give those old soldiers a good burial.
@@GunBlue490 thank you for your advice. I hadn't given thought about the corrosive primers changing the properties of the brass. Your warning is well heeded.
Why is it that as I watch your videos you have the exact same equipment as me. We must of shopped at the same place over the years. I love Hand Tools . Same block same brush holder .
So after you change your brass how do you change the numbers on the bottom
Gonna try to make some 257 Bob's out of some 7x57 Mauser cases .. Cant find any in this country..
How much does that tool you use for the chamfering process cost? It definitely makes that process more efficient.
Very odd that my Lee 308 WIN full length sizing die has an expander ball instead of a tapered expanding shaft. Although, my die is old. It was my grandfathers die.
I love Lee lube. Have you ever tried dissolving it in acetone and spraying it on? Super thin, dries super fast
Have you converted .308 to 6.5 creedmoor? I'm trying to do so and not succeeding. Everything seems to be identical but it won't chamber in my rifle.
Tank you, which brass I can use to reloading a 303 british, Thank you
Help? I just resized some 308 brass to 7mm08, and everything went well and according to plan until I tried chambering the 1st test rounds. The case necks are thick, and require a good bit of force to close the bolt on them, but it does close. The cases are a little shorter than spec, but I got the COAL to spec. I am not sure if they are safe to shoot like this. Are there any ways to thin the neck if I don't have a neck turner? I'm not sure I saw another video where your reformed cases had this issue. Admittedly, it was once fired brass, and I did not anneal it prior to resizing, perhaps annealing would have made the difference? Other thoughts? Thanks again, I've learned tons from you over the last year since I discovered your channel.
I have a question I have an RCBS uniflow powder measure that is extremely inconsistent with certain certain powders. I find myself hand measuring each load which gives great accuracy but very not much fun. is there a good universal powder measure that is easy to use, accurate, and affordable? Thanks for another great video
Some years ago, RCBS changed their drum sizes in order to force sales of both drums. My small drum measures with great accuracy because it has a small surface area to cut off, but still handles cases from the smallest pistol up to 30-06. If I need a larger charge for my 300 Win Mag, I simply throw two half charges, rather than use a large drum with a wide surface area to cut. The diameter of the hole is critical to the accuracy of the charge, and it's impossible to get an accurate drop with a wide diameter hole. You may find that using your small drum exclusively with doubled half charges will provide great consistency. If not, find a measure that has a small drum capacity of 55 to 60 grains. Lyman's measure was once considered a good one, and it has a knocker to keep coarse powders from bridging.
I don't know what your measure is giving for accuracy, but as a reference, mine drops virtually all spherical powders to less than a half tenth grain, short extruded powders like H332 and R-15 to plus or minus one tenth; generally less, medium coarse powders like IMR4064 and IMR4350 within plus or minus one tenth, and difficult coarse powders like H4831 to within plus or minus two tenths.
That may sound like a lot, but such slow burning extruded powders are insensitive to rather large differences in charge weights, and will shoot accurately anyway. Watch my bench shooting video from last summer with my 257 Roberts. Those rounds were dropped charges of very difficult H4831, directly from my measure, and groups don't get any nicer.
I may be doing a video on powder charge accuracy soon.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you for this very informative reply, GunBlue!
I reformed some Match brass from 30-06 to 35 Whelen. I had the brass and didn't have to go out and buy brass. How far are you from Riley's?
I was in High School when I talked to Bill when he was still at the store. You have great videos
So if I was going to make .243 from .270 should I size it to .308 first?
THANK YOU SIR!