This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd. Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling. Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
Sir you are spot on! I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better. I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it. Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc! More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far! GOD Bless America, One Nation Under GOD, In GOD We Trust, Pa-Pow, Amen! 😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on RUclips. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related RUclipsr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁 As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil. Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted). I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father. Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
This is my favorite gun channel. I look forward to each new posting. Over the years, I've benefited greatly from your seasoned and practical advice on firearms. I also enjoy and benefit from your more spiritual insights. Keep up the good work. and a very Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed. This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
Just to throw this out, Paint thinner is ANY solvent that can thin paint or CLEAN brushes and other painting tools. It can be pure mineral spirits, mixed mineral spirits, or other stuff like turpentine, acetone, naphtha, toluene, and more. Paint thinner is usually less refined than mineral spirits and might have added chemicals like benzene to make it work better and smell nicer. Mineral spirits are mainly used to clean metal surfaces before painting or finishing them. They work great for removing grease and oil, which helps the paint stick better. However, don't leave them on as a coating because they'll evaporate and won't provide any protection. At 64, I've been hunting since I was 16 and have been around guns all my life. I had the fantastic opportunity to work with a gunsmith after school, then later for him part-time until his untimely passing. God Bless his soul. I completely agree that the #1 killer of cleaning guns is over-oiling them. The #2 killer of guns is neglect, by not wiping them down with a PROTECTIVE coating and under lubricating. Stainless steel rifles are already good at resisting corrosion and don't need to be oiled. If you're mostly worried about corrosion, the stainless steel alone should be enough. Wipe it down with something like Mineral Spirits, as GunBlue stated, and you're good to go. Bluing is a different beast. Bluing creates a delicate finish, usually only 1/10,000” thick, so it can scratch easily. Bluing is a process that darkens iron, steel, brass, and aluminum to a bluish-black color. It makes the metal look better, protects it from rust, and makes it non-stick. You are NOT protecting metal here. You are protecting the 1/10,000” thick coating layer. Mineral spirits are a great option to clean it, but it's prone to rust if left untreated. As a New Englander, I hate to spend money needlessly, but I have a large sum invested in my firearms. I'm not going to cut corners taking care of them. I want something specially formulated to protect the bluing coating. NOT just the metal. Now, what product to use is the debate of the ages. Like Blue, being old school, Im drawn to Hobbes. I use the traditional for cleaning and coating, then their lubricant SPARINGLY. I take special care that no fingerprints are left when I put them away.
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
Nailed it in the first minute: Think about cleaning a dirty wrench, piston, etc. I despise how people think that a firearm becomes some magical thing that has to have special chemicals to clean and function because... they can't ever finish that thought they just get swallowed in marketing. Thank you so much for your common sense. Also since I've been cleaning with your methods my cost and time cleaning has gone down, my firearms are always fully functional and I never have rust, FTF or any issues whatsoever. I think it's possible that people are actually causing a lot of problems by improper cleaning and maintenance with odd chemicals from who-knows-where.
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍 We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed! I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa. I am sharing this on Gab. :)
Absolutely 100% correct . . . again! Use the KISS principle when cleaning. I laugh at those using special cleaners and lubes doing nothing more than removing greenbacks from their wallets.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
One of the best protection against water is lanolin . A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb . Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust . Instead of lubriplate grease I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Thanks, for this...perfect messaging - I use one product - Ballistol - not expensive, non-toxic and it works great. Also love the idea of having a oil cloth, I use a silicone gun cloth, but does the same thing. Thanks for the info on Lubriplate, I have heard about that in the past.
This is the most honest review on gun cleaning. I have been 100% guilty at overlubricating thinking (better protection). Recently I found that mineral oil that you can find at your local supermarket gives you the proper protection as a gun lube and way cheaper to purchase. it attracts less gun power because is not as thick as gun oil and yet protects the steel parts from rust. Thankyou for your channel. Common sense channel to firearm maintenance. I found this by looking for the right oil to use for my new electric shaver and mineral oil was found to be the proper oil for electric shavers and sawing machines to keep lubricated. Now, I use it on my firearms. And they are less oily and messy as before. Keep it up, you are doing an excellent job on your channel.
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
The lubrication advice is excellent for all guns. I've wasted many hours using an applied paste of diatomaceous earth (sold in 5 lb bags in the garden center) and Stoddard solvent to wick soaked-in oil out of wood stocks. It works, but it can take a couple of weeks of repeat applications before the stuff stops coming out, and then you need to refinish the stock to seal it. Another homemade variant for cleaning is C. E. Harris's mix called Ed's Red. You can look it up on the web. It's all you need to maintain combat accuracy in your guns. For match accuracy, I've had a couple of experiences where simple cleaning didn't cut it. My old DCM M1 Garand had a barrel that shot all 9s and 10s for me at 600 yards (within 2.9 moa) with 168-grain MatchKings over 48 grains of IMR4064 for the first ten of the 20 prone Slow Fire rounds of the 50-round National Match Course. That put me at round #40 in the overall match. Accuracy then fell to printing 8s and 9s (up to 3.9 moa). This degradation proved, as confirmed by borescope, to be due to a constriction caused by a build-up of copper just beyond the throat that narrowed bullets, so they no longer quite filled the grooves well. That forced me to go to copper solvents to restore accuracy. Later, I lapped the bore, and that stopped the problem from occurring during a match, but that's an extreme alteration. The 8s and 9s are still well within combat accuracy, so there was never a need for soldiers to have copper solvents in the field. Another accuracy degradation came in my AR when a carbon ring built up at the end of the portion of the chamber corresponding to the case neck. Carbon hardens as it ages, and the borescope showed no amount of brushing got into the sharp corner at that point in the chamber profile to remove it. Neither did mild abrasive bore cleaners, like JB Bore Compound, work. It required a special solvent that attacks carbon. I ran a wet patch of Gunzilla in and let it sit for 24 hours, and then the ring patched right out. Carbon Killer, left in the chamber for fifteen minutes, likely would have done the same, but faster. I've been told that the AMU is using Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil for its carbon-dissolving additives, but my experiments haven't shown it to work as fast as the two products I mentioned, though if I let the gun sit a week, it might. And yes, these things are extra cost, but you use such small quantities at one time and only when carbon issues arise, so it is hard to argue that they add a significant expense.
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
Another great and informative video! Thanks for everything you do, your video releases are always a high point of my day! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
I love this. You covered it in the past and I haven’t felt the slightest need for anything but mineral oil and mineral spirits. Maybe some Hoppies as a luxury.
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
I agree 100% on not over lubricating firearms, I see it often as well and if one says something, people find it offensive. Saw one guy spraying lube directly into the receiver chamber area. Have no idea why, there's nothing to lubricate there. Lubricating because it was jamming. jamming because he over lubricated it and the carbon build up is hampering it.
I have found in over 40 years of shooting and cleaning firearms, Ballistol is the best all around cleaner, lubricant and preserver by far. It too can be watered down to make "moose milk". I worked for a stainless steel sink manufacturer and we used Ballistol watered down to make "moose milk" as a weld grinding lubricant. It works wonder on wood and leather. The best hands down.
At 5:52, that's what he is discussing, basically saying don't buy Ballistol. I use it for black powder arms. I don't find it any more effective on smokeless residues than Hoppes. Other people report different results. As GunBlue says, I mostly use mineral spirits.
@@wdtaut5650 It is nothing out of the ordinary. It may be healthier but it doesn't do anything better. It is water soluble. So a coat on the gun will be less protective as others when it is humid or raining. They know that and have other variants for storage. The aggressive advertising is annoying. It may be interesting if on has to fly with liquids based on certain rules not being restricted in some places. It all has to work with the usage and environment.
Amazing info. I've been a fan for years. I did laugh hard when you discussed how some people drink it for medical reason. Constipation no more, stuff must be like root rooter. Thank you from Halifax MA
Always a good start to the morning when you see a new video from gunblue! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, you never disappoint. Merry Christmas from your neighbors in Maine.
Your channel is amazing I always enjoy your knowledge on this subject it never gets old hearing it. I often re watch your older videos on the subject. You’re a great person and thank you for sharing your passion for our lord and savior Jesus!! Merry Christmas to you and your family and I hope you have a blessed new year ahead!
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
Great video on how to clean a gun the right way. I am guilty of buying into some of the unnecessary product hype. I need to get back to old school. At 60 years old, I remember old school. All the best and God Bless. Jim from Georgia
Excellent video and absolute truth. Nothing sold today for cleaning or lubricating guns is a NEW product. It’s all been invented already. Machinists decades ago taught me to lubricate with transmission fluid and it’s always kept rifles operating in extreme cold and hot conditions.
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated. I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
I agree completely with your method. I always use a rag with a drop of oil to wipe down my guns. I would like to hear your thoughts on shotgun bore cleaning for us clay shooters. I always hear that the plastic from the wad will build up in the barrel. However I rarely clean the bore of my shotgun and I shoot a lot of trap. I miss your cooking videos as well. It looks like some beer brewing equipment in the background. Would like to see a video of you brewing beer. I used to brew and still have the equipment. It might just get me to brew again.
I shoot a lot of trap, skeet & sporting clays and clean my shotgun, including the barrels, after every outing. Plastic fouling does accumulate. Don't be lazy. A clean and properly lubed firearm will last years and hold their value more than one that has been neglected.
I followed your advice about mineral oil. Works great indeed. After a range session, a wipe down with a cloth of mineral oil, quick wipe down with a dry cloth, gun gets stored. All these CLP products stay at the store, now. I plan on trying the deep cleaning with the mineral spirits, next. Thanks for sharing those insights. 🙏
Merry Christmas to you and yours Sir!! Hoping you a blessed and healthful new year! Thanks so much for all your guidance on cleaning and protecting our beloved firearms. God Bless!
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
Thank you for preventing me from destroying my 2 mini 14s. I have been watching videos trying to sell the latest and greatest new cleaning products. Stay strong my friend and God Bless.
As one old experienced man to another, love your videos. Wipe them off to keep the rust away. Biggest problem was always rust on small parts like sights.
Great video Gunblue🙌 As always👏 I have been cleaning guns almost 70 years being a fanatic gun collector as well as reloader and hunter😳 I have seen some rifles I have gotten over the years and have seen how bad choices sure can take a nice rifle to a big ball of rust🥵 My father in law never believed in cleaning his guns period and I turned down getting any of his rifles ever after seen what No maintenance does😡
Absolutely. I've got a cleaning rag with mineral oil on standby at all times. For cleaning the bore after shooting I use 50/50 mineral old and solvent. It's the old machinist's formula. It can stay in the bore and won't hurt anything especially after the solvent evaporates. Just dry swab it before you fire it next time.
@@JerryRedd-bs8xi That's only true for drying oils like linseed oil. It's the drying and polymerization of the oil that can generate heat and cause combustion. Mineral oil really isn't a problem because it isn't capable of that reaction. Certainly any oily rag can be a hazard in the workshop where there are sources of ignition like welding or grinding sparks, but the two hazards seem to get confused.
I’m thinking of switching to your 50/50 machinist’s recipe for cleaning my guns, would pure gum spirits (real turpentine) work as the solvent? Already have a bottle for household cleaning on hand!
@@codycrowley6089 Machinists mostly use paraffin (kerosene) which is safe for painted and varnished surfaces and around most plastics (but not PE and PP). Even then it's probably a good idea to use a bore guide and keep it away from a wooden stock since it has the power to penetrate porous surfaces. I think that would be your main issue for varnished and plastic parts, but I can't find a good compatibility chart for plastics and terpines (ie turpentine). I know PET is safe but that's about it, however odor might also be an issue. You'd need to be very sure yourself that the turpentine can't hurt anything on your gun like the wooden stock or plastic parts like magazines. I think I'd be recommending the parrafin over the gum spirits, mostly because the gum spirits is a bit of an unknown around modern gun finishes.
Been doing flannel/mineral oil ever since your previous video on this subject. Works exaxtly as you state. Even got a few OLD handguns wrapped in it inside those cheap WallyWorld plastic cases. Recently looked at one that's been stowed away for 3-4+ years. Same as day it was tucked away. Thanks for the solid advice and saving me money.
At 10:03 he picks up the manual, reads the large print "Warning", pauses, puts his glasses on, then continues to read the small print. *I felt that deep in my soul.*
Great video, thanks! I think this should be required viewing for the firearms community. I'm no engineering genius, but I do know that people tend to fall for all kinds of marketing and industry 'wisdom' when it comes to products meant to magically clean, lubricate, preserve, or 'increase accuracy'. As you say, steel is steel. I don't think these same people would obsess over their favourite screwdriver or hammer to such an extent, but if that same steel is in a firearm, that apprently endows it with magical properties that require special care. That's just nuts. Anyway, I don't think you could ever say too much on this subject; we all need to be reminded of the logic behind this stuff. Cheers and God Bless!
Another great video on gun cleaning. I love your video on cleaning the Ruger 10/22, where you mention that "incantations" are not necessary. Ha ha ha. No, they are still not needed to clean your firearm. Merry Christmas to you too.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
When I was a kid, daddy introduced me to his Auto 5. All he ever did was wipe it down with an old worn out t shirt that he sprayed with a shot of gun oil. Looks as good today as when he bought it in ‘63! 10-4 on the Lubriplate! Just a dab is all it takes. WD40 is a great crud cutter. Good for cleaning guns that have been immersed in water. A lot of people curse it, but it works!
WD-40 to clean. 3-in-1 oil for lubrication. (For metal on metal surfaces.) Mineral Oil for the wood. That's been my go to for many a decades and has worked great up to this point. Thanks for the share!!
Thanks for this info on gun cleaning, this is great. I keep forgetting to get cotton flannel. Ialready use mineral oil. You're right about the dry wrot. Take Care and Be Safe. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year .
This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
Very refreshing.
WELL SPOKEN!!! GOD Bless you! Yes, GunBlue is the Wise, Grand Fatherly type person.
we have chosen to listen to sociopaths instead of experts.
Amen to that.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd.
Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling.
Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
The only problem with this video, is that not enough people will see it. 🙂
Great video.
who cares... their lose
This is refreshing! I get so tired of RUclips channels promoting the latest marketing gimmick. Truth and common sense are rare these days. Thank you.
Really.... ever use Mineral Spirits? and Lacquer Thinner? Pfffft.....
Save yourself dude....
word
Sir you are spot on!
I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better.
I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it.
Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Enjoyed reading your post. Merry Christmas 🎅
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Their barrel cleaning solvent "Robla Solo Mil " is also good. But you have to be careful on blued guns.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
@@cooper57m How different people are. I love the smell.
Ballistol is an incredible product, been using it for many years
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
Best gun channel on RUclips. Thank you for sharing your lifetime of knowledge with us. Have a merry Christmas my friend.
Your clear, honest and common sense communication skills are outstanding. You are a fantastic teacher!
I agree!
I guess I'll keep paying over the odds just for the smell of Hoppes! So much nostalgia, so many childhood associations, so much comforting ritual!
It’s the smell of being 12 years old. It takes me straight back to the 60’s every time.
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Don’t get hopped on your skin ……liver damage
Me, too… gun cleaning in the smell of hopped… goes together!
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc!
More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far!
GOD Bless America,
One Nation Under GOD,
In GOD We Trust,
Pa-Pow, Amen!
😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on RUclips. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
Thank you for your wisdom! I trust and love the lessons you pass down to the younger generations
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
Love your videos! Right or wrong my favorite cleaner, lubricant, protective on wood and steel is Ballistol. Works on everything.
@dougrogers835 👍👊
But the Kaiser's Army used it!
Ballistol smells awful 😣
Ballistol is great stuff. Does stink though.
@@davek5027 it's not a cologne like Hoppes 9. But all these seem to do the job. Like GunBlue490 says, we're ultimately cleaning steel.
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related RUclipsr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Sir, Don't ever allow yourself to think that you are not doing great things for the World at Large.
Great information, as always!
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
A fouled magazine can cause just as much of a problem as the gun itself. Clean and dry mags have helped my mark series rugers a ton
@@tracyhaynes5404 I had the same problem with a 10/22. Cleaning the buildup on the feed lips of the magazine took care of it. 👍
Long after you've gone home to be with the Lord you'll still be helping young men learn traditional values and skills. And I appreciate that.
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
Just a utility sheetrock wall in an unfinished basement. 😊
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁
As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil.
Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
It was such a pleasure to have met you at the auto parts store . That made my Christmas. Thank you , May God Bless you and your family.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted).
I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth.
Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
Thanks for your profession of faith. I appreciate the simplicity of your advice. God bless you and your family.
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father.
Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
And the aroma of Hoppes!
☃️🎅🎄🇺🇸
I am grateful for all of your teaching over the years, and I hope you have a merry Christmas as well.
This is my favorite gun channel. I look forward to each new posting. Over the years, I've benefited greatly from your seasoned and practical advice on firearms. I also enjoy and benefit from your more spiritual insights. Keep up the good work. and a very Merry Christmas to you and your family!
I always appreciate your simple approach and explanation of various topics ... you are very professional and a rare asset to the community. Thank you
I have been involved with guns since real little and my dad always used hopes no 9. But your videos are right on the money. Thank you and God bless.
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
30 sec in, and I have confidence in the info you're putting out!!
No BS here!!!
Refreshing... Thank you
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
One of my favorite channels over the last 8 years, and certainly the most informative!
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed.
This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
Early 70s, my best friend lived next store his dad was a gun smith and we helped clean firearms he only had paint thinner.
Paint thinner is HIGHLY FLAMABLE ask any firefighters MUCH more flammable than kerosine or diesel fuel.
I am a 30 + year firefighters and learned this in my first year.
Isn’t diesel not extremely flammable, at least compared to gasoline
@@Mark-uh4zd. No it’s not as flammable . That’s the big plus with modern jet engines in aircraft.
@@drizlerThere are a few diesel-powered piston engined aircraft, but most turbine engines burn kerosene-based fuels.
Thank you for the coaching and the knowledge you share. God bless you and your family, specially in this period when we celebrate our Savior's birth.
Just to throw this out, Paint thinner is ANY solvent that can thin paint or CLEAN brushes and other painting tools. It can be pure mineral spirits, mixed mineral spirits, or other stuff like turpentine, acetone, naphtha, toluene, and more. Paint thinner is usually less refined than mineral spirits and might have added chemicals like benzene to make it work better and smell nicer.
Mineral spirits are mainly used to clean metal surfaces before painting or finishing them. They work great for removing grease and oil, which helps the paint stick better. However, don't leave them on as a coating because they'll evaporate and won't provide any protection.
At 64, I've been hunting since I was 16 and have been around guns all my life. I had the fantastic opportunity to work with a gunsmith after school, then later for him part-time until his untimely passing. God Bless his soul.
I completely agree that the #1 killer of cleaning guns is over-oiling them. The #2 killer of guns is neglect, by not wiping them down with a PROTECTIVE coating and under lubricating.
Stainless steel rifles are already good at resisting corrosion and don't need to be oiled. If you're mostly worried about corrosion, the stainless steel alone should be enough. Wipe it down with something like Mineral Spirits, as GunBlue stated, and you're good to go.
Bluing is a different beast. Bluing creates a delicate finish, usually only 1/10,000” thick, so it can scratch easily. Bluing is a process that darkens iron, steel, brass, and aluminum to a bluish-black color. It makes the metal look better, protects it from rust, and makes it non-stick. You are NOT protecting metal here. You are protecting the 1/10,000” thick coating layer. Mineral spirits are a great option to clean it, but it's prone to rust if left untreated.
As a New Englander, I hate to spend money needlessly, but I have a large sum invested in my firearms. I'm not going to cut corners taking care of them. I want something specially formulated to protect the bluing coating. NOT just the metal.
Now, what product to use is the debate of the ages. Like Blue, being old school, Im drawn to Hobbes. I use the traditional for cleaning and coating, then their lubricant SPARINGLY. I take special care that no fingerprints are left when I put them away.
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
DHMO is very dangerous. It can pool in low areas and displace air. It’s especially hazardous in cold weather.
It's hydrogen hydroxide, the correct chemical composition expression. (H20, sometimes called "water.")
Good one!
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
@@krockpotbroccoli65 But it's not right and annoying to knowledgeable folks. (admittedly very few these days).
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
Nailed it in the first minute: Think about cleaning a dirty wrench, piston, etc. I despise how people think that a firearm becomes some magical thing that has to have special chemicals to clean and function because... they can't ever finish that thought they just get swallowed in marketing. Thank you so much for your common sense. Also since I've been cleaning with your methods my cost and time cleaning has gone down, my firearms are always fully functional and I never have rust, FTF or any issues whatsoever. I think it's possible that people are actually causing a lot of problems by improper cleaning and maintenance with odd chemicals from who-knows-where.
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍
We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed!
I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa.
I am sharing this on Gab. :)
Absolutely 100% correct . . . again! Use the KISS principle when cleaning. I laugh at those using special cleaners and lubes doing nothing more than removing greenbacks from their wallets.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
Hence the Ed Red gun cleaner and lube uses lanolin .
Lanolin is probably one of the best anti rust and water proof protection there is
One of the best protection against water is lanolin .
A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb .
Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust .
Instead of lubriplate grease
I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Thanks, for this...perfect messaging - I use one product - Ballistol - not expensive, non-toxic and it works great. Also love the idea of having a oil cloth, I use a silicone gun cloth, but does the same thing. Thanks for the info on Lubriplate, I have heard about that in the past.
Thank you for your videos my Brother In Christ. A very merry, blessed & peaceful Christmas to you and your family from Shonah & I in Scotland.
This is the most honest review on gun cleaning. I have been 100% guilty at overlubricating thinking (better protection). Recently I found that mineral oil that you can find at your local supermarket gives you the proper protection as a gun lube and way cheaper to purchase. it attracts less gun power because is not as thick as gun oil and yet protects the steel parts from rust. Thankyou for your channel. Common sense channel to firearm maintenance. I found this by looking for the right oil to use for my new electric shaver and mineral oil was found to be the proper oil for electric shavers and sawing machines to keep lubricated. Now, I use it on my firearms. And they are less oily and messy as before. Keep it up, you are doing an excellent job on your channel.
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
Thanks for keeping it simple. Love the break down and God bless you too!
The lubrication advice is excellent for all guns. I've wasted many hours using an applied paste of diatomaceous earth (sold in 5 lb bags in the garden center) and Stoddard solvent to wick soaked-in oil out of wood stocks. It works, but it can take a couple of weeks of repeat applications before the stuff stops coming out, and then you need to refinish the stock to seal it.
Another homemade variant for cleaning is C. E. Harris's mix called Ed's Red. You can look it up on the web. It's all you need to maintain combat accuracy in your guns.
For match accuracy, I've had a couple of experiences where simple cleaning didn't cut it. My old DCM M1 Garand had a barrel that shot all 9s and 10s for me at 600 yards (within 2.9 moa) with 168-grain MatchKings over 48 grains of IMR4064 for the first ten of the 20 prone Slow Fire rounds of the 50-round National Match Course. That put me at round #40 in the overall match. Accuracy then fell to printing 8s and 9s (up to 3.9 moa). This degradation proved, as confirmed by borescope, to be due to a constriction caused by a build-up of copper just beyond the throat that narrowed bullets, so they no longer quite filled the grooves well. That forced me to go to copper solvents to restore accuracy. Later, I lapped the bore, and that stopped the problem from occurring during a match, but that's an extreme alteration. The 8s and 9s are still well within combat accuracy, so there was never a need for soldiers to have copper solvents in the field.
Another accuracy degradation came in my AR when a carbon ring built up at the end of the portion of the chamber corresponding to the case neck. Carbon hardens as it ages, and the borescope showed no amount of brushing got into the sharp corner at that point in the chamber profile to remove it. Neither did mild abrasive bore cleaners, like JB Bore Compound, work. It required a special solvent that attacks carbon. I ran a wet patch of Gunzilla in and let it sit for 24 hours, and then the ring patched right out. Carbon Killer, left in the chamber for fifteen minutes, likely would have done the same, but faster. I've been told that the AMU is using Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil for its carbon-dissolving additives, but my experiments haven't shown it to work as fast as the two products I mentioned, though if I let the gun sit a week, it might. And yes, these things are extra cost, but you use such small quantities at one time and only when carbon issues arise, so it is hard to argue that they add a significant expense.
You’re also cleaning lead. Nice old Ruger! Great video! God bless you and your family Sir!
I always enjoy your channel. I get a history lesson and a no nonsense instruction 😊👍
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
b olt c arrier g roup, acronyms suck
@@blueplasma5589if you own an AR you know what a BCG is.
Another great and informative video! Thanks for everything you do, your video releases are always a high point of my day!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Accolades and Christmas blessings to you! Thank you for being my firearms care mentor.
Love your videos, they are very informative.
Always sound, accurate advice. Thank you sir!
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
I love this. You covered it in the past and I haven’t felt the slightest need for anything but mineral oil and mineral spirits. Maybe some Hoppies as a luxury.
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
Gun sock
@@williamgaines9784 Hey I was close!
I agree 100% on not over lubricating firearms, I see it often as well and if one says something, people find it offensive. Saw one guy spraying lube directly into the receiver chamber area. Have no idea why, there's nothing to lubricate there. Lubricating because it was jamming. jamming because he over lubricated it and the carbon build up is hampering it.
I have found in over 40 years of shooting and cleaning firearms, Ballistol is the best all around cleaner, lubricant and preserver by far. It too can be watered down to make "moose milk". I worked for a stainless steel sink manufacturer and we used Ballistol watered down to make "moose milk" as a weld grinding lubricant. It works wonder on wood and leather. The best hands down.
At 5:52, that's what he is discussing, basically saying don't buy Ballistol. I use it for black powder arms. I don't find it any more effective on smokeless residues than Hoppes. Other people report different results. As GunBlue says, I mostly use mineral spirits.
@@wdtaut5650
It is nothing out of the ordinary. It may be healthier but it doesn't do anything better. It is water soluble. So a coat on the gun will be less protective as others when it is humid or raining. They know that and have other variants for storage.
The aggressive advertising is annoying.
It may be interesting if on has to fly with liquids based on certain rules not being restricted in some places.
It all has to work with the usage and environment.
Amazing info. I've been a fan for years. I did laugh hard when you discussed how some people drink it for medical reason. Constipation no more, stuff must be like root rooter.
Thank you from Halifax MA
Always a good start to the morning when you see a new video from gunblue! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, you never disappoint. Merry Christmas from your neighbors in Maine.
Your channel is amazing I always enjoy your knowledge on this subject it never gets old hearing it. I often re watch your older videos on the subject. You’re a great person and thank you for sharing your passion for our lord and savior Jesus!! Merry Christmas to you and your family and I hope you have a blessed new year ahead!
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
Me too 😊
Same here. Paint thinner and mineral oil.
Please be careful with the oily rags and pads. Think "spontaneous combustion" that can ignite alone and burn your house down.
Mineral oil is a great way to create a gummy mess inside your firearm.
Another great video sir! Merry Christmas and may God bless you and your family!
Great response video to Midway's recent "cleaning" video! haha. Keep up the great work!
Great video on how to clean a gun the right way. I am guilty of buying into some of the unnecessary product hype. I need to get back to old school. At 60 years old, I remember old school. All the best and God Bless. Jim from Georgia
Excellent video and absolute truth. Nothing sold today for cleaning or lubricating guns is a NEW product. It’s all been invented already. Machinists decades ago taught me to lubricate with transmission fluid and it’s always kept rifles operating in extreme cold and hot conditions.
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated.
I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
Thank you for the common sense approach to cleaning. Mineral oil is the ticket.
Keep up the great material... Your voice and tempo reminds me of Paul Harvey - and I mean that with the utmost respect and compliment.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos sir .Merry Christmas ,Happy Hanukkah and Happy New Year .God Bless👍
Good advice. I was wondering about long term storage of guns and how often, if any, one would need to pull them out for a wipe down.
Love your common sense approach to this wonderful hobby.
God Bless !
I agree completely with your method. I always use a rag with a drop of oil to wipe down my guns.
I would like to hear your thoughts on shotgun bore cleaning for us clay shooters. I always hear that the plastic from the wad will build up in the barrel. However I rarely clean the bore of my shotgun and I shoot a lot of trap.
I miss your cooking videos as well. It looks like some beer brewing equipment in the background. Would like to see a video of you brewing beer. I used to brew and still have the equipment. It might just get me to brew again.
I shoot a lot of trap, skeet & sporting clays and clean my shotgun, including the barrels, after every outing. Plastic fouling does accumulate. Don't be lazy. A clean and properly lubed firearm will last years and hold their value more than one that has been neglected.
I followed your advice about mineral oil. Works great indeed. After a range session, a wipe down with a cloth of mineral oil, quick wipe down with a dry cloth, gun gets stored. All these CLP products stay at the store, now. I plan on trying the deep cleaning with the mineral spirits, next. Thanks for sharing those insights. 🙏
Merry Christmas to you and yours Sir!! Hoping you a blessed and healthful new year! Thanks so much for all your guidance on cleaning and protecting our beloved firearms. God Bless!
Excellent info! I use only Hoppe's #9 and mineral oil. And a little bit of Lubriplate 130 on my M1 and M1A. Merry Christmas!
Newish gun owner here. Thanks for this explanation. Very helpful. 😊
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
I love watching your videos.
Thank you for what you do.
Merry Christmas!
Thank you for preventing me from destroying my 2 mini 14s. I have been watching videos trying to sell the latest and greatest new cleaning products. Stay strong my friend and God Bless.
As one old experienced man to another, love your videos.
Wipe them off to keep the rust away.
Biggest problem was always rust on small parts like sights.
Great video Gunblue🙌 As always👏 I have been cleaning guns almost 70 years being a fanatic gun collector as well as reloader and hunter😳 I have seen some rifles I have gotten over the years and have seen how bad choices sure can take a nice rifle to a big ball of rust🥵 My father in law never believed in cleaning his guns period and I turned down getting any of his rifles ever after seen what No maintenance does😡
Absolutely. I've got a cleaning rag with mineral oil on standby at all times. For cleaning the bore after shooting I use 50/50 mineral old and solvent. It's the old machinist's formula. It can stay in the bore and won't hurt anything especially after the solvent evaporates. Just dry swab it before you fire it next time.
Be very careful with mineral oil on rags .Left in a pile they can and will spontaneously combust.
@@JerryRedd-bs8xi That's only true for drying oils like linseed oil. It's the drying and polymerization of the oil that can generate heat and cause combustion. Mineral oil really isn't a problem because it isn't capable of that reaction.
Certainly any oily rag can be a hazard in the workshop where there are sources of ignition like welding or grinding sparks, but the two hazards seem to get confused.
I’m thinking of switching to your 50/50 machinist’s recipe for cleaning my guns, would pure gum spirits (real turpentine) work as the solvent? Already have a bottle for household cleaning on hand!
@@codycrowley6089 Machinists mostly use paraffin (kerosene) which is safe for painted and varnished surfaces and around most plastics (but not PE and PP). Even then it's probably a good idea to use a bore guide and keep it away from a wooden stock since it has the power to penetrate porous surfaces.
I think that would be your main issue for varnished and plastic parts, but I can't find a good compatibility chart for plastics and terpines (ie turpentine). I know PET is safe but that's about it, however odor might also be an issue. You'd need to be very sure yourself that the turpentine can't hurt anything on your gun like the wooden stock or plastic parts like magazines.
I think I'd be recommending the parrafin over the gum spirits, mostly because the gum spirits is a bit of an unknown around modern gun finishes.
Ah my favorite topics ! Hope you and yours are doing well Mr. GunBlue490 - Merry Christmas !!
Been doing flannel/mineral oil ever since your previous video on this subject. Works exaxtly as you state. Even got a few OLD handguns wrapped in it inside those cheap WallyWorld plastic cases. Recently looked at one that's been stowed away for 3-4+ years. Same as day it was tucked away.
Thanks for the solid advice and saving me money.
At 10:03 he picks up the manual, reads the large print "Warning", pauses, puts his glasses on, then continues to read the small print.
*I felt that deep in my soul.*
When reading glasses become part of your life, it’s really annoying. And as far as I know once you’re in that group, it’s never going to change😖
@@TucoDog-ho6fw Lasik
Great video, thanks! I think this should be required viewing for the firearms community. I'm no engineering genius, but I do know that people tend to fall for all kinds of marketing and industry 'wisdom' when it comes to products meant to magically clean, lubricate, preserve, or 'increase accuracy'. As you say, steel is steel. I don't think these same people would obsess over their favourite screwdriver or hammer to such an extent, but if that same steel is in a firearm, that apprently endows it with magical properties that require special care. That's just nuts. Anyway, I don't think you could ever say too much on this subject; we all need to be reminded of the logic behind this stuff. Cheers and God Bless!
Another great video on gun cleaning. I love your video on cleaning the Ruger 10/22, where you mention that "incantations" are not necessary. Ha ha ha. No, they are still not needed to clean your firearm. Merry Christmas to you too.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
When I was a kid, daddy introduced me to his Auto 5. All he ever did was wipe it down with an old worn out t shirt that he sprayed with a shot of gun oil. Looks as good today as when he bought it in ‘63!
10-4 on the Lubriplate! Just a dab is all it takes.
WD40 is a great crud cutter. Good for cleaning guns that have been immersed in water. A lot of people curse it, but it works!
Paul Harrell had a video showing how he cleaned his pistol with soap and water too.
Afair he cleaned his A1 with the A2 front based on the old M16 field manual.
Started using mineral oil after the first video you posted on it. Tell all my shooting friends as well .Merry Christmas and Happy new year!
I appreciate your videos, alot of good knowledge. Merry Christmas. 🇺🇸
WD-40 to clean. 3-in-1 oil for lubrication. (For metal on metal surfaces.) Mineral Oil for the wood. That's been my go to for many a decades and has worked great up to this point. Thanks for the share!!
3 in 1 oil will burn off too fast to protect a firearm.
WD 40 will thin out the blueing on blued metals.
@@mojo4376 Incorrect. I shoot 800 to 1000 rounds a month.
@@kbk7478 wives tale
Thanks for this info on gun cleaning, this is great. I keep forgetting to get cotton flannel. Ialready use mineral oil. You're right about the dry wrot. Take Care and Be Safe. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year .