Great vid just had to do my knock sensor and some of my labels fell of and stumped me its guys like you who take the time to film stuff that is helpful is what makes RUclips awesome for the rest of us hats off!!!!
Take a few moments to mark them with multicolored zip ties and youll never have this problem again. You have to double up on some colors for more combinations but it works better then a paint marker and its a quick and reliable reference. Put one tie an inch or so down on the hose and a tie on the metal rail.
I want taiwan made or US made nylon multicolor zip ties that can handle engine bay heat. The ones at Harb** Frei*** only handle a limited heat range. Otherwise these will get brittle like a cracker. Where can I find these? in az outside temps in July can hit 115 degrees in the shade
I cannot find a single example of vacuum hoses similar to mine. I have a 'california emissions' 1995 4runner 4wd auto. That first hose you show..I don't have that. I have a hose that goes around the back of engine, but it goes into throttle body. That '3 way' going into intake manifold..the 3rd hose goes straight back near fuse box to a 2 set thing(similar to the 3 set VSV with the green blue and red...) and 2 hoses from my '2 set' route to my front differential(for 4wd). When I got truck, the 2 hoses going to 4wd were severed. I replaced them twice only to have them melt or get severed again. The 3rd time was the charm as I bought better hoses and roughted them carefully with heat protection and away from moving parts. I have continued to suspect a vacuum leak since I've had truck, and eventually located area causing faint hissing sound using a length of hose held up to my ear. It comes right from the first VSV(The blue one labeled in some diagrams as "(as)") Yesterday I blew some cigarette smoke into it and watched smoke come out of it(the side facing the engine). When I blow into the red and green one, they are sealed. I can't find any info on whether that blue one should be like that. Adding to the confusion, I recently have a hard time starting during a cold start(cranks 3 times longer than usual before finally starting). Then after starting, the idle is slightly higher than usual, and the engine revs a bit as sensors try to fix whatever the issue it. Also, if I punch gas pedal, I sometimes get hesitation(like it's starving for fuel or air). I used to get 02 sensor engine light code, but now I don't. Again, I have california emissions bs, so I have 2 o2 sensors..upstream and downstream! I cleaned both of them yesterday. I replaced 80% of vacuum hoses. Rebuilt tranny, new cylinder head and new gaskets. New power steering pump. New air filter, fuel filter, oil filter. New TPS. Cleaned Throttle Body. Many other new misc parts. I have suspected weak fuel pump or faulty fuel injector, but have already taken intake manifold off 4 or 5 times and would like to rule out vacuum leak at that blue "(as)" from part of VSV before I do all that again. -Homeless mechanic:)
Thanks man. I thought I had gotten them all covered haha! I hope the 3 videos helped you out at least a little. I did these because I had one heck of a time figuring out the hoses myself. Had my Haynes Manual, Toyota FSM, and a few online diagrams that I based this set up on. Thanks for the feedback. :)
You're welcome man. How hope it worked out for your rig. This engine can be a real pain in the ass sometimes and vacuum hoses shouldn't be one of them but they can contribute to so many issues.
Hello, there is a vacuum line in the back that is under the intake manifold. It connects on top of the fuel rail hose, and connects somewhere on the passenger side. Can you show where it goes? Thank you
OMG Red,Im no way bitching at you,You did a great job...I had a 88 V6,Toyed with it for a year,No MPG or Power.Some say you can bolt up a Buick V6...Great video.TY73s
Lol i didnt say you were. I agreed with you and I thought it was funny too. It is a piece of junk. I honestly hate my engine. Some day maybe ill get around to an engine swap. Im really liking the new cummins 2.8L 4cyl crate diesel. They include everything you need for an engine swap.
I had a certified engine builder refurbish/rebuild my 1990 3VZE with manual 5sp tranny at 304,000 miles. weeks before that decision at about 303,000 miles I replaced all my drive train fluids with synthetic Lucas GL5 & greased my orig factory u-joints. I went to Mexico with a car dolly and recovered my salvaged Sienna Van with motor/interior. I pulled all of that back to the USA and it was 350 miles. It was a strain on the drivetrain. But the 3VZE and drivetrain did its job, mission accomplished. It was worthy of keeping the 4Runner & rebuilding the 3vze, with top quality parts. Its 32 years old. The tranny no leaks, the engine now no leaks. I'm passing emissions with a non-oem CAT from Midas. In 5th gear stock motor (new Toyota cams, new pistons & increased compression on a non-interference engine) I can get it up to 90mph. I have yet to test going up the mountain freeway.
@@RedethMusic BUICK V6 IS KILLER AS I HEARD..ITS ALL GOOD BUT DID ALL KINDS INTAKE WORK TO MINE,YEARS AGO..COULDN'T GET BETTER THAN 15 -17? MPG. ANOTHER IDEA IS DIESEL OR NEW 4CYYC OR JUST KEEP THE OLD BUGGY GOING..THE BEST IN THE WORLD..
PCV valve sticks out of the valve cover. The hose connecting it to the manifold is the crankcase ventilation hose. It's the "U" shaped hose he mentions @ 2:49. It's really not very "U" shaped, but...
Um? is that a 4wheel drive? and if so does it have manual hubs at the front wheels or the ADD (no hubs) setup... ? My 90 califirnia truck which im orig owner of differs a bit I think... The ADD models have gizmo just inboard of the front differential, in essence its where the two front wheels lock together when in 4wd.. in 2wd it unlocks so each front wheel is free from the other so you can turn on streets... anyways,,, that is vacume powered... that vacume source is on that tripple tap you start off with... Every other year my smog guy looks at me sideways because on the decal and in his ref book and his personal same year 2wd truck thereare only 2 lines there... emmission/smog related... when he see's that 3rd that isnot shown on diagram we go through this wholedance over it... but it is factory... you show your 3rd line/tap, i think going across firewall,, is that going to cruise control? you didnt say... I dont think i have that line, i dont have cruze control either.... Lastly,, I cant recall exactly proper name but what you call sensers are not sensors... those are electric solonoiod valves, they allow or stop vacume via an electric solonoid... i had onego bad,, long story,, i was abile to correct minesbroblem,, i know those well.... Oh the reason the one lineisnot shown on decal under hood etc is because thoseare emmision routing info... on mine the 3 rd is drivetrain related and not all trucks have it so .... but is original
It is a 4wheel drive 4runner. I believe all 1st gens were. It came with Automatic wheel hubs when it was still IFS. But I have done a Solid Axle Swap on it so now I'm sporting a 1985 Toyota front solid axle with original Manual locking hub. But you are able to swap out auto for manual hubs with no issues. There isn't anything bad that comes from changing them out. There isn't any vacuum lines that go to the axle. So that does not matter which one you have. Also Your vehicle should not have any issues driving in the street with 4x4 on. Toyota vehicles came with limited slip differentials with allows the outer wheels to spin faster when doing turns. The only way you would have any issues when 4x4 is engaged is if you have a front locker whether it is electric, lunchbox locker, or air locker. But any vehicle with a 3rd member engaged in 4x4 that has an existing locker engaged will give you a hard time when turning. If you are the original owner and did not have that locker put in yourself or by a shop then your 2nd gen is still gonna be a limited slip differential because that's how they came. As far as comparing my 1st gen 4runner vacuum lines with 1990 to 1995 years, Automatic and Manual transmission, 4x4 and 2wd models and so forth; they all has minor differences It even varies from year to year on your 2nd gen 4runners I would not compare your 4x4 to a 2wd 3vze engine.. Best thing I can say is go to an Authorized Toyota dealership with a parts department and have them give you a print out of your vehicle specific vacuum line order. That is what I did for my truck. As for under the hood, I bought my truck without any printouts on there. and if it ever did come with it I am sure the previous owner either took it off or had battery acid burn it off from a previous batter because I don't have one. All Ive got to say about my set up is that with all these vacuum lines set up the way I have them and with my rebuilt engine, new VSV sensors/switches/o2 sensors and new 2&1/4 exhaust piping with cat/muffler. I always pass my smog check with no issues at all.
Dave Greaves hey man, What about the EGR valve? ..Which solenoid connects to it? Just bought a 89 4 runner with the sr5 ..had a motor swap done and it has the 3 port you speak of, but someone put lock out hubs on it at one point.. anyway it surges/ hunts for idle only when my foot is on the brakes, and ONLY IN 2 WHEEL DRIVE.... in 4 low, or high, it is fine.. in 2 wheel, with my foot on the brakes, it varies consistently about 2-300 rpm.. more annoying than anything.. when i disconnect the hose from drivers side valve cover to intake elbow, and plug it, it stops surging as well.... any experience with an issue like that? Thanks, Drew
Drew, im not sure what to say about your issues with it having an engine swap done to it. There are some good toyota truck forums and a wealth of information in them about any concievable issues you may incounter. As for the other, i am the original owner of my 1990 truck which i actually bought off the car carrier as it was being dekivered to the dealership.. as you seem familiar with the front axles perhaps you can answer why mine with its add differential and no hubs when in 4wd will not turn on pavement as you say it should be able to? Also being a truck its actually 5th generation not second.
Yep. That's why I say at the beginning of the first video that this is how mine was wired. I just made these videos for my own use. But put them online in case anybody else had issues like I had when first starting my build. But yes I agree. You are entirely correct
I just lost all my vacuum lines in an electrical fire on my 1994, this is a lifesaver. Many thanks to you
You're welcome. Make sure to watch the 3 parts to the video it's not just one.
Great vid just had to do my knock sensor and some of my labels fell of and stumped me its guys like you who take the time to film stuff that is helpful is what makes RUclips awesome for the rest of us hats off!!!!
You saved me ! I just rebuilt my engine and while I did mark all vacuum lines a few were a problem. Thank you.
just curious i know your post is from 2 years ago but how did it work out for ya. Did this vacuum line order work out for ya?
the u is the pcv valve if anyone needs to know for sure great video man
@Farmlifebelike thanks for the clarification man. Glad the vid is still helping some people.
Take a few moments to mark them with multicolored zip ties and youll never have this problem again. You have to double up on some colors for more combinations but it works better then a paint marker and its a quick and reliable reference. Put one tie an inch or so down on the hose and a tie on the metal rail.
I want taiwan made or US made nylon multicolor zip ties that can handle engine bay heat. The ones at Harb** Frei*** only handle a limited heat range. Otherwise these will get brittle like a cracker. Where can I find these? in az outside temps in July can hit 115 degrees in the shade
@@tonyisme4934I just use whatever I can find. They have lasted for years. Some are as old as the truck.
Thanks for the video. Hope this helps me tmrw. I took all these off like an idiot and now watching videos to see how badly I messed up lol
Youre welcome. Make sure to watch all 3 videos that I posted on those vacuum lines.
I jut finished my 1994 rebuild and messed my vacuum lines up you saved me a bunch of work time and money
I cannot find a single example of vacuum hoses similar to mine. I have a 'california emissions' 1995 4runner 4wd auto. That first hose you show..I don't have that. I have a hose that goes around the back of engine, but it goes into throttle body. That '3 way' going into intake manifold..the 3rd hose goes straight back near fuse box to a 2 set thing(similar to the 3 set VSV with the green blue and red...) and 2 hoses from my '2 set' route to my front differential(for 4wd). When I got truck, the 2 hoses going to 4wd were severed. I replaced them twice only to have them melt or get severed again. The 3rd time was the charm as I bought better hoses and roughted them carefully with heat protection and away from moving parts. I have continued to suspect a vacuum leak since I've had truck, and eventually located area causing faint hissing sound using a length of hose held up to my ear. It comes right from the first VSV(The blue one labeled in some diagrams as "(as)") Yesterday I blew some cigarette smoke into it and watched smoke come out of it(the side facing the engine). When I blow into the red and green one, they are sealed. I can't find any info on whether that blue one should be like that. Adding to the confusion, I recently have a hard time starting during a cold start(cranks 3 times longer than usual before finally starting). Then after starting, the idle is slightly higher than usual, and the engine revs a bit as sensors try to fix whatever the issue it. Also, if I punch gas pedal, I sometimes get hesitation(like it's starving for fuel or air). I used to get 02 sensor engine light code, but now I don't. Again, I have california emissions bs, so I have 2 o2 sensors..upstream and downstream! I cleaned both of them yesterday. I replaced 80% of vacuum hoses. Rebuilt tranny, new cylinder head and new gaskets. New power steering pump. New air filter, fuel filter, oil filter. New TPS. Cleaned Throttle Body. Many other new misc parts. I have suspected weak fuel pump or faulty fuel injector, but have already taken intake manifold off 4 or 5 times and would like to rule out vacuum leak at that blue "(as)" from part of VSV before I do all that again. -Homeless mechanic:)
Hey man did you ever figure out what was going on with it?
Yoooo u a real 1 man. I'm about to go through my lines this weekend
You missed the blue inner hose. I think you did an awesome job. I am missing my hose on the port on the engine side of the blue port. Thanks
Thanks man. I thought I had gotten them all covered haha! I hope the 3 videos helped you out at least a little. I did these because I had one heck of a time figuring out the hoses myself. Had my Haynes Manual, Toyota FSM, and a few online diagrams that I based this set up on.
Thanks for the feedback. :)
MA MAN!!!!!
Where does the two hoses go that come from the bottom of power steering pump?
thanks for the video man, it helps a lot.
You're welcome man. How hope it worked out for your rig. This engine can be a real pain in the ass sometimes and vacuum hoses shouldn't be one of them but they can contribute to so many issues.
yea what about the brake buster one?
Uffff Man what a fucking great video, it's super helpful. Thank you so much.
There is 2 other parts to the video. Its 3 videos in total vheck the others out. 😊
would you recommend doing a u hose if the power steering is passin oil into the engine??//
Hello, there is a vacuum line in the back that is under the intake manifold. It connects on top of the fuel rail hose, and connects somewhere on the passenger side. Can you show where it goes? Thank you
I dont know how to explain it but it connects right infront of the sensor on the intake manifold on the passenger side
Look at 3:07 on the video and tou should be able to see it
Thanks for the video it help me a lot!!!
you're welcome
yiu didnt show where the pair reed hose goes?
I’m looking for the others the fuel hoses
Look through my videos I have 3 videos pertaining to the hoses.
Old ass video lol. But dude thanks!! Idk who tf can actually read these diagrams but i cant!
thanks for the helpful video.
The one from power steering where those go
I have the same question
6cyl,THAT MOTOR IS A DISGRACE TO THINK TOYOTA WOULD MAKE SUCH A PIECE OF SHIT!Great job on the video though.TY73s
RadicalRalph Russo lol i agree 100% i wish i had done my research before i bought it but oh well. I cant do much about it now haha.
OMG Red,Im no way bitching at you,You did a great job...I had a 88 V6,Toyed with it for a year,No MPG or Power.Some say you can bolt up a Buick V6...Great video.TY73s
Lol i didnt say you were. I agreed with you and I thought it was funny too. It is a piece of junk. I honestly hate my engine. Some day maybe ill get around to an engine swap. Im really liking the new cummins 2.8L 4cyl crate diesel. They include everything you need for an engine swap.
I had a certified engine builder refurbish/rebuild my 1990 3VZE with manual 5sp tranny at 304,000 miles. weeks before that decision at about 303,000 miles I replaced all my drive train fluids with synthetic Lucas GL5 & greased my orig factory u-joints. I went to Mexico with a car dolly and recovered my salvaged Sienna Van with motor/interior. I pulled all of that back to the USA and it was 350 miles. It was a strain on the drivetrain. But the 3VZE and drivetrain did its job, mission accomplished. It was worthy of keeping the 4Runner & rebuilding the 3vze, with top quality parts. Its 32 years old. The tranny no leaks, the engine now no leaks. I'm passing emissions with a non-oem CAT from Midas. In 5th gear stock motor (new Toyota cams, new pistons & increased compression on a non-interference engine) I can get it up to 90mph. I have yet to test going up the mountain freeway.
@@RedethMusic BUICK V6 IS KILLER AS I HEARD..ITS ALL GOOD BUT DID ALL KINDS INTAKE WORK TO MINE,YEARS AGO..COULDN'T GET BETTER THAN 15 -17? MPG.
ANOTHER IDEA IS DIESEL OR NEW 4CYYC OR JUST KEEP THE OLD BUGGY GOING..THE BEST IN THE WORLD..
Whats the one coming off the valve cover into the intake
PCV valve sticks out of the valve cover. The hose connecting it to the manifold is the crankcase ventilation hose. It's the "U" shaped hose he mentions @ 2:49. It's really not very "U" shaped, but...
Uriah Massey thanks buddy
Pcv valve
He calls it a manifold in the video
خیلی عالی
Where the first one is going name plz that's the one that I'm missing?
willy rmz cruise control
@ 4:23 CORN 🌽 MAN IS IN THE AREA
🗣ELOTES..........
Um? is that a 4wheel drive? and if so does it have manual hubs at the front wheels or the ADD (no hubs) setup... ? My 90 califirnia truck which im orig owner of differs a bit I think... The ADD models have gizmo just inboard of the front differential, in essence its where the two front wheels lock together when in 4wd.. in 2wd it unlocks so each front wheel is free from the other so you can turn on streets... anyways,,, that is vacume powered... that vacume source is on that tripple tap you start off with... Every other year my smog guy looks at me sideways because on the decal and in his ref book and his personal same year 2wd truck thereare only 2 lines there... emmission/smog related... when he see's that 3rd that isnot shown on diagram we go through this wholedance over it... but it is factory... you show your 3rd line/tap, i think going across firewall,, is that going to cruise control? you didnt say... I dont think i have that line, i dont have cruze control either.... Lastly,, I cant recall exactly proper name but what you call sensers are not sensors... those are electric solonoiod valves, they allow or stop vacume via an electric solonoid... i had onego bad,, long story,, i was abile to correct minesbroblem,, i know those well.... Oh the reason the one lineisnot shown on decal under hood etc is because thoseare emmision routing info... on mine the 3 rd is drivetrain related and not all trucks have it so .... but is original
It is a 4wheel drive 4runner. I believe all 1st gens were. It came with Automatic wheel hubs when it was still IFS. But I have done a Solid Axle Swap on it so now I'm sporting a 1985 Toyota front solid axle with original Manual locking hub. But you are able to swap out auto for manual hubs with no issues. There isn't anything bad that comes from changing them out. There isn't any vacuum lines that go to the axle. So that does not matter which one you have.
Also Your vehicle should not have any issues driving in the street with 4x4 on. Toyota vehicles came with limited slip differentials with allows the outer wheels to spin faster when doing turns. The only way you would have any issues when 4x4 is engaged is if you have a front locker whether it is electric, lunchbox locker, or air locker. But any vehicle with a 3rd member engaged in 4x4 that has an existing locker engaged will give you a hard time when turning. If you are the original owner and did not have that locker put in yourself or by a shop then your 2nd gen is still gonna be a limited slip differential because that's how they came.
As far as comparing my 1st gen 4runner vacuum lines with 1990 to 1995 years, Automatic and Manual transmission, 4x4 and 2wd models and so forth; they all has minor differences It even varies from year to year on your 2nd gen 4runners I would not compare your 4x4 to a 2wd 3vze engine.. Best thing I can say is go to an Authorized Toyota dealership with a parts department and have them give you a print out of your vehicle specific vacuum line order. That is what I did for my truck.
As for under the hood, I bought my truck without any printouts on there. and if it ever did come with it I am sure the previous owner either took it off or had battery acid burn it off from a previous batter because I don't have one.
All Ive got to say about my set up is that with all these vacuum lines set up the way I have them and with my rebuilt engine, new VSV sensors/switches/o2 sensors and new 2&1/4 exhaust piping with cat/muffler. I always pass my smog check with no issues at all.
Dave Greaves hey man, What about the EGR valve? ..Which solenoid connects to it? Just bought a 89 4 runner with the sr5 ..had a motor swap done and it has the 3 port you speak of, but someone put lock out hubs on it at one point.. anyway it surges/ hunts for idle only when my foot is on the brakes, and ONLY IN 2 WHEEL DRIVE.... in 4 low, or high, it is fine.. in 2 wheel, with my foot on the brakes, it varies consistently about 2-300 rpm.. more annoying than anything.. when i disconnect the hose from drivers side valve cover to intake elbow, and plug it, it stops surging as well.... any experience with an issue like that? Thanks, Drew
Drew, im not sure what to say about your issues with it having an engine swap done to it. There are some good toyota truck forums and a wealth of information in them about any concievable issues you may incounter. As for the other, i am the original owner of my 1990 truck which i actually bought off the car carrier as it was being dekivered to the dealership.. as you seem familiar with the front axles perhaps you can answer why mine with its add differential and no hubs when in 4wd will not turn on pavement as you say it should be able to? Also being a truck its actually 5th generation not second.
Not every truck is this way. Do at your own risk
Yep. That's why I say at the beginning of the first video that this is how mine was wired. I just made these videos for my own use. But put them online in case anybody else had issues like I had when first starting my build. But yes I agree. You are entirely correct
Yb
this video is so wrong. not per fsm at all. Please dont hook up your lines this way, it my run, but not properly
I passed smog check already twice with this set up. Not sure about you but it works perfectly fine for me.
yeah you will pass smog, however EVAP, PAIR system ect ect will not function properly.
+Parker Garrett send me a video where it is done correctly. I want to see what i did wrong.
theres no video, however, look at the Factory Service Manual. it has the proper wiring diagram inside
www.toyoteros.com.ar/manuales/mecanica/motor_22RE_3VZE.pdf