Thank you for posting your videos. I appreciate it. I have really good luck by facing all the parts on the lathe including the piston block and the aluminum case so the big O-ring will sit a little bit tight. Do not take more than .002 . I found out the pump on the right hand side when you are standing behind the mower fails much faster than the left side because the pump on the right hand side has to carry double the load. Replace your thrust bearing and your shaft bearing. I use SKF bearing for the shaft. It is much better and lasts much longer. Use only Mobile 1 15-50 oil. Make sure that you clean the reservoir use a strong magnet to catch all of the metal shavings and flush the rest of the metals out multiple times plus make sure you flush your lines too. Assemble with oil and put at least 1/4 - 1/2 cup of oil in each and fill out a new filter with oil. It is a very good time to flush out the wheel motors on both sides. Attach two flexible hoses to the end of the hoses and get 1/2 gallon of gas mixed with 1 cup of Mobile 1 oil as a flushing solution. Put one hose in the gas and the other hose in an empty container (the same volume). Turn your wheels by hand and this will siphon the gas and shoot it from the other end. Make sure that you keep pumping until clean fluid comes out. Normally, if you look at the gas that comes out you will see a lot of metal flakes in it. Do the same to the other side. Prime both pumps with Mobile 1 15-50 oil and cap them so they do not get dirty. All what you are doing is pre-priming the system so that it does not take to long to get the air bubbles out so that you are not running it dry. NOTE: If you heat the shaft bearing in 140 degree hot oil then the bearing will go on the shaft much easier when pressing it or hammering it into place. Do this in a safe and well ventilated area. Use rubber gloves to protect your hands. See link for the service manual for the pumps. www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwi2kuHJ4PzWAhVHymMKHT_yDLcQFgguMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHydro-Gear-Transmission-Transaxle-Parts-Lists-and-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FP-Series-PK-PG-PE-PW-PR-PC-PJ-Hydrostatic-Pumps-Hydro-Gear-Service-and-Repair-Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3wl7lwWmYVFirnhKxY1Hxr If you need help or questions let me know and I will walk you through it.
Thank you for the added resources,I’m rebuilding a pw series 21 cc pump off my dixie chopper diesel now. Got it torn down and been using jacks small engines for parts so far. Seems I need a housing kit,as the plastic slides for the swash plate have split around the mounting rivet,seems like a poor design. I’ll be posting my video when done. I took great care of these pumps for 15 yrs, this is first issue.
Now that was interesting; it's nice to be a machinist and have those tools available. Of course I was a bricklayer and had the stuff I needed, too! Again, great photos at the end...a lot of memories to hang on to. all our family photos got away and I am having a real hard time getting any of them back. See you next time, Greg.
I have Hydro Gear pumps on my Troybuilt zero turn mower. The left pump has aways been weaker than the right one. I would think the builders would use some wear plates in/on this unit. Save the customer some cost, as I would think that a plate would be less expense to make than a valve body. Also the valve body would not have to be ground, so less expense to make one. Thanks for the good video Mike.
Your left pump is weaker because your belt is slipping. You need a new belt or belt tensioner or belt tensioner arm spring. You don't have enough friction on the left hand pulley so normally your left hand pump is a little bit sluggish especially if you try to turn or accelerate. On the new PJ style pumps the block that Mr. Mike surfaced is made from aluminum and no more cast metal so there is a wear plate that goes on top of the hydraulic piston block.
A backyard mechanic repair is a piece of glass on a bench, and some fine grit sandpaper in circular motion. Hard to see parts due to camera placement. That being said, thank you for the video. I am in the process of rebuilding 4 Hydro Gear pumps that are working fine, but are leaking. New o-rings, seals, etc.
I would reccommend pulling apart and at least cleaning the wheel motors as well. Those systems have no filter between pump and motor so any steel out of one gets sent thru the other.
Great Video Thanks! You mentioned you were waiting on o-rings for the hoses? These are for the adaptors that go into the pump . Size or where you go them would be appreciated
Mike is you want to take the least amount ,you might grind it if you have a surface grinder.You can use beeswax on your wheel and grind the alum. body.Be sure you keep your wheel coated with the beeswax or canning wax.
Mike, I have a hydro-gear pump PG-1GNP-DY1X-XXXX BDP-10A-414. Where can I find a rebuild kit for this unit and what all comes with it? Is it just the seals, do I need to order bearing, valve plate, check valves or what? Can you help me out sir?
I have a brand new PW series pump I'm trying to put on an old small case trencher and am having no luck getting it to prime up and work. It has spun the wheels a couple times at very low rpm but nothing at idle up. Using regular trans hydraulic fluid and gave the pump designated ports off the reservoir with 1/2 feeds. Any advice??
I don't think that they make the PJ pump any more. The new model starts with PK. It is exactly like what you have except the part that you surfaced is made out of aluminum and there is a hard metal wear plate between the cylinder and the part. So you only replace the wear plate instead of surfacing it. Surface the plate like what you did shouldn't effect any performance and should work just fine. Surfacing the cylinder block and take more than .002 will start having an internal pressure leak under a high load.
I think they are better too because they are heavier and more stable than aluminum. I think they switched to aluminum for cost issues not performance. Keep in mind not everyone has a surface grinder or a lathe. The majority of the people they just remove and replace parts without fixing the damaged parts without figuring out what caused the damage. I have been rebuilding them for at least 25 years. If I maintain them after rebuilding them by changing oil and oil filters they can last for years. What normally damages them is continuous use and the heat starts to build up. I noticed that the round o-ring profile changes shape to square from the excessive heat. The only cooling for the whole system is that small reservoir that is good for an hour or an hour and a half work then it needs an hour to cool down. You can add a cooler between the pumps and the reservoir on the return side. The new Exmark and Toro use a Parker pump instead of hydro gear with a big fan on them. If the fan stays clean they last way much longer. Thank you, Mike.
I would not be happy with that ground finish. It should not have that pattern on it. It should be an even surface. I never ground cast iron though only hardened cold rolled steel. There's no way we'd have been able to put out parts that looked like that though. Not for what we were charging.
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Thank you for posting your videos. I appreciate it. I have really good luck by facing all the parts on the lathe including the piston block and the aluminum case so the big O-ring will sit a little bit tight. Do not take more than .002 . I found out the pump on the right hand side when you are standing behind the mower fails much faster than the left side because the pump on the right hand side has to carry double the load. Replace your thrust bearing and your shaft bearing. I use SKF bearing for the shaft. It is much better and lasts much longer. Use only Mobile 1 15-50 oil. Make sure that you clean the reservoir use a strong magnet to catch all of the metal shavings and flush the rest of the metals out multiple times plus make sure you flush your lines too. Assemble with oil and put at least 1/4 - 1/2 cup of oil in each and fill out a new filter with oil. It is a very good time to flush out the wheel motors on both sides. Attach two flexible hoses to the end of the hoses and get 1/2 gallon of gas mixed with 1 cup of Mobile 1 oil as a flushing solution. Put one hose in the gas and the other hose in an empty container (the same volume). Turn your wheels by hand and this will siphon the gas and shoot it from the other end. Make sure that you keep pumping until clean fluid comes out. Normally, if you look at the gas that comes out you will see a lot of metal flakes in it. Do the same to the other side. Prime both pumps with Mobile 1 15-50 oil and cap them so they do not get dirty. All what you are doing is pre-priming the system so that it does not take to long to get the air bubbles out so that you are not running it dry.
NOTE: If you heat the shaft bearing in 140 degree hot oil then the bearing will go on the shaft much easier when pressing it or hammering it into place.
Do this in a safe and well ventilated area. Use rubber gloves to protect your hands.
See link for the service manual for the pumps.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwi2kuHJ4PzWAhVHymMKHT_yDLcQFgguMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHydro-Gear-Transmission-Transaxle-Parts-Lists-and-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FP-Series-PK-PG-PE-PW-PR-PC-PJ-Hydrostatic-Pumps-Hydro-Gear-Service-and-Repair-Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3wl7lwWmYVFirnhKxY1Hxr
If you need help or questions let me know and I will walk you through it.
Thanks for commenting, I appreciate the advice
Thank you for the added resources,I’m rebuilding a pw series 21 cc pump off my dixie chopper diesel now. Got it torn down and been using jacks small engines for parts so far. Seems I need a housing kit,as the plastic slides for the swash plate have split around the mounting rivet,seems like a poor design. I’ll be posting my video when done. I took great care of these pumps for 15 yrs, this is first issue.
Now that was interesting; it's nice to be a machinist and have those tools available. Of course I was a bricklayer and had the stuff I needed, too! Again, great photos at the end...a lot of memories to hang on to. all our family photos got away and I am having a real hard time getting any of them back. See you next time, Greg.
I wish I knew how to lay brick, My shop would be bigger
Thank you sir, I’m rebuilding a 21cc pump and your info has helped me .ill be posting my video when I’m done.
A lot of parts, precise work!
Thanks for watching
That old chuck makes a good bench vice/work holder!
There are a lot of thing laying around the shop that makes life easier, you just have to be lazy enough to figure it out
Nice work. And a saving of $200 makes it a lot easier work.
Yes this needs to be done on the cheap.
Great job Mike !
Thanks Shawn
nice work looking good
Thanks Robert
At $200 each, using the surface grinder is a really handy solution. Hope they clean up and serve you well.
Thanks they did clean up
I have Hydro Gear pumps on my Troybuilt zero turn mower. The left pump has aways
been weaker than the right one.
I would think the builders would use some wear plates in/on this unit. Save the customer
some cost, as I would think that a plate would be less expense to make than a valve body.
Also the valve body would not have to be ground, so less expense to make one.
Thanks for the good video Mike.
Your left pump is weaker because your belt is slipping. You need a new belt or belt tensioner or belt tensioner arm spring. You don't have enough friction on the left hand pulley so normally your left hand pump is a little bit sluggish especially if you try to turn or accelerate. On the new PJ style pumps the block that Mr. Mike surfaced is made from aluminum and no more cast metal so there is a wear plate that goes on top of the hydraulic piston block.
do they still make the "PJ Pump"
I think the newer ones have replaceable valve wear plates
Good video.
Thanks for watching
looking good
Thanks for watching
A backyard mechanic repair is a piece of glass on a bench, and some fine grit sandpaper in circular motion. Hard to see parts due to camera placement. That being said, thank you for the video. I am in the process of rebuilding 4 Hydro Gear pumps that are working fine, but are leaking. New o-rings, seals, etc.
I would reccommend pulling apart and at least cleaning the wheel motors as well. Those systems have no filter between pump and motor so any steel out of one gets sent thru the other.
bcbloc02 I agree with you on that.
I agree Brian !
I am planning of flushing them,
Nice video
Thanks for the reply
Great Video Thanks! You mentioned you were waiting on o-rings for the hoses? These are for the adaptors that go into the pump . Size or where you go them would be appreciated
Mike is you want to take the least amount ,you might grind it if you have a surface grinder.You can use beeswax on your wheel and grind the alum. body.Be sure you keep your wheel coated with the beeswax or canning wax.
Thanks
Looking good Mike, now is your grass going to be 2 thou. too high.
+/-.0002
19:33 What book are you referring to? I couldn't find any literature on how to rebuild these.
I doubt you got outside manufacturing specs. It is not a rocket ship. Great work.
I think it will be fine
Mike, I have a hydro-gear pump PG-1GNP-DY1X-XXXX BDP-10A-414. Where can I find a rebuild kit for this unit and what all comes with it? Is it just the seals, do I need to order bearing, valve plate, check valves or what? Can you help me out sir?
Dewain try here www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/HYDRO-GEAR/Hydraulic-Pump-Part/Seal-Kit
Great video thank you from new subscriber
I have a brand new PW series pump I'm trying to put on an old small case trencher and am having no luck getting it to prime up and work. It has spun the wheels a couple times at very low rpm but nothing at idle up. Using regular trans hydraulic fluid and gave the pump designated ports off the reservoir with 1/2 feeds. Any advice??
Can you do a video on repairing a Eaton hydro for a walker mower? Thanks
I don't think that they make the PJ pump any more. The new model starts with PK. It is exactly like what you have except the part that you surfaced is made out of aluminum and there is a hard metal wear plate between the cylinder and the part. So you only replace the wear plate instead of surfacing it. Surface the plate like what you did shouldn't effect any performance and should work just fine. Surfacing the cylinder block and take more than .002 will start having an internal pressure leak under a high load.
I have heard the cast iron heads are better than the aluminum. Not sure why just heard it in a conservation
I think they are better too because they are heavier and more stable than aluminum. I think they switched to aluminum for cost issues not performance. Keep in mind not everyone has a surface grinder or a lathe. The majority of the people they just remove and replace parts without fixing the damaged parts without figuring out what caused the damage. I have been rebuilding them for at least 25 years. If I maintain them after rebuilding them by changing oil and oil filters they can last for years. What normally damages them is continuous use and the heat starts to build up. I noticed that the round o-ring profile changes shape to square from the excessive heat. The only cooling for the whole system is that small reservoir that is good for an hour or an hour and a half work then it needs an hour to cool down. You can add a cooler between the pumps and the reservoir on the return side.
The new Exmark and Toro use a Parker pump instead of hydro gear with a big fan on them. If the fan stays clean they last way much longer. Thank you, Mike.
thats an old set of pumps. I work assembling these and we havent used cast iron endcaps for years.
I would not be happy with that ground finish. It should not have that pattern on it. It should be an even surface. I never ground cast iron though only hardened cold rolled steel. There's no way we'd have been able to put out parts that looked like that though. Not for what we were charging.
comes out the other side
All that equipment sitting there and you're still using hand wrenches? Buy a frickin air guy....