Tim I am a finish carpenter and definitely I am not bragging because coming behind someone like u and your guys is really why I would ever look good! I just finished a tiny job that was a cabinet man/ finish guys nightmare! No 90’s wall had a mountain in the middle and the alcove was an 1 1/8 “ out? Floor was almost a 1/2” and it made me look like a 1 st day apprentice! Then she ( customer ) would not pay because the doors did not sit perfect I mean a 32nd on the end! I just said “mam I am tired I am leaving” ! What a dream to follow a carpenter/ framer like you ! After that thank you for a great video ! And l love Gary I hv his books as a resource !
I agree with everything done. I just happen to have my own level of fanaticism . I consider setting a door a " Dance " . One thing dictates what the next move is .. Years ago we were given some brutal doors to install.. Throughout my 42 year career . I believed in cross-training as a frame carpenter to a trim carpenter and back again.. Little story.. All 40 of these interior doors could not be set conventionally. . They were pre-finished . Up to 10' tall , Weighed a ton , Jambs had to be perched perfectly with no hairline above the pre-finished flooring from France , You couldn't hang them as pre-hungs to check reveals and you couldn't nail or fasten through the pre-finished jambs but in a small area were the split side of the jamb/stop would cover . To top it off the jamb was made of 1"-10 ply with a laminate veneer and was as flimsy as spaghetti .But that was your jamb and you had to hang these $4,000-$10,000 doors perfectly . All the masters mulled over the procedure for days , Mock ups galore and seemingly no efficient system was found . There were instructional videos for these doors but it didn't help much . So somehow the flimsy jambs had to be set and anchored , Turned into a " The Jamb of Steel " and when the doors were hung . The double doors better shake hands like NASA was involved. The reveals better be as sweet as if you used a feeler gauge and the singles better hit the stop like a solid thud top to bottom . I made suggestion and was rebuffed each time , Until day three when they surrendered to me . Game on . Looking back . I use this same procedure on every door if I want it to survive a nuclear attack . It was so wonderful to be set free that I was singing , Walking the dog so to speak , I couldn't be rushed because I held The Keys . The procedure was a tripod and a beam laser . First align the laser roughly parallel to the wall surface . I knew I could be off a few degrees of arc and still maintain accuracy . Then sense the floor , The jamb perch and record . Precut each side of the jamb . Now sense the 4 points of the 8' wide opening frame . In a perfect world , They would be perfect ,, But being a framer . I knew plus the added pooch of a drywall finisher . Record ... Then check if the frame was out of plumb by putting the laser in front of the opening . See if you need to favor one side because once you commit , There is no going back .Dangle one side of the jamb and shim perfectly square at the top . For some reason the head jamb came later ?? Glue the shims . Set the laser visually to the center or side of the jamb . Then line up the bottom with the laser , Walk the rest down with a Stabila plate level . Then the next side and also taking into consideration the proudness of the frame and set accordingly . Maintaining a story spacer equal to the head jamb .Mount the hinges on the door and build a little drywall lift for the door . Waddle it in place with a helper and mount the hinges in the mortise . Bingo !! . After that . Nobody wanted anything to do with doors. Came out perfect and you'd think I'd get a bonus ?? Nope .. Ever since I use a laser to set doors and windows . glue my shims square at all points that need control and of course behind hinges and strikes . To me . A bubble level is a matter of interpretation . A good laser and everyone can see it from distance . I like levels in some situations . But if I can walk into a room and be within a few degrees of arc and far enough away . Line up top plate and bottom and you can see whether it's plumb or not without argument . All my doors after setting will be slammed to see if the drywall pops .I must hear a burp when it closes to the stop . No rattlers allowed .. Peace .. BTW .. I write a lot because I am disabled and got time .. I caught a bad case of stage 4 cancer and hope to shake it
I’ve watched a lot of videos about setting doors and this is one this pretty good. I have some tricks that make it easier but the most important thing in this before is: DON’T NAIL/Screw through the shims! Things move, buildings shift over time and you may need to readjust something over time. Also, you need to install the long screws that come with the door through the hinge (next to a shim), to secure the door plus it will pull the door into proper adjustment
I enjoyed the video. Like you I’ve hung many doors over the years. I was watching the video hoping he would talk about what happens of the eight minute 40 second mark. It happens on every door.
I liked all the points of installation except my variation is after wedging the top jamb I shim just above the lower hinge, fine tune with shim just below upper hinge and then match shim height on strike side. Then finally fine tune strike side behind lock and where needed to make straight. Always screw as you did and never behind a hinge. Working slowly and methodically should take about 15 minutes.
I'm doing research on door installs and am finding confusing info on whether or not I NEED a metal/plastic sill pan. You don't use one here. Mind expanding on that?
If it doesn’t have a roof/porch over the exterior door I highly recommend putting a proper pan down. The plastic ones make it simple but usually do add a bit of build up. The nice thing is most pans come with a lip on the inside so incase water does get in, it won’t get by the lip(into the house) I’ve always stuck to more is better when talking about windows and doors. More caulking under the door and a decent pan it’s a cheap insurance policy
Not a pro, not connected to the channel, just been binge watching the channel and on a few of the siding episodes, they explain that the yellow mesh stuff is to stand off the siding from the wall to provide air flow as well as allow water to cleanly drop down to the bottom flashing. That way, no water can accumulate or pool, thus avoiding mold and stuff. I don't recall the name offhand. But, as I said, look for the siding episodes.
Those are no problem, it’s when you get the twelve foot tall double doors with a transom and Baldwin hardware that you better call a actual Finish Carpenter before you eat a ten thousand dollar door. 😊
Or you can find a framer that has transitioned back and forth for many years as a trim carpenter . 42 years myself as a carpenter that has cross-trained for years . Like learning the piano and then learning a guitar .
If it’s Gary Katz system I’m sure that I’m wrong but doesn’t it make sense to swap the order of screw 4 and 5? By putting the screw through the hinge after the bottom of the strike jamb is already fastened won’t that cause the reveal to change at the bottom? It’s more of a question for interior doors that don’t have a sill holding them together at the bottom.
Tim I am a finish carpenter and definitely I am not bragging because coming behind someone like u and your guys is really why I would ever look good! I just finished a tiny job that was a cabinet man/ finish guys nightmare! No 90’s wall had a mountain in the middle and the alcove was an 1 1/8 “ out?
Floor was almost a 1/2” and it made me look like a 1 st day apprentice! Then she ( customer ) would not pay because the doors did not sit perfect I mean a 32nd on the end!
I just said “mam I am tired I am leaving” !
What a dream to follow a carpenter/ framer like you !
After that thank you for a great video ! And l love Gary I hv his books as a resource !
I agree with everything done. I just happen to have my own level of fanaticism . I consider setting a door a " Dance " . One thing dictates what the next move is .. Years ago we were given some brutal doors to install.. Throughout my 42 year career . I believed in cross-training as a frame carpenter to a trim carpenter and back again.. Little story.. All 40 of these interior doors could not be set conventionally. . They were pre-finished . Up to 10' tall , Weighed a ton , Jambs had to be perched perfectly with no hairline above the pre-finished flooring from France , You couldn't hang them as pre-hungs to check reveals and you couldn't nail or fasten through the pre-finished jambs but in a small area were the split side of the jamb/stop would cover . To top it off the jamb was made of 1"-10 ply with a laminate veneer and was as flimsy as spaghetti .But that was your jamb and you had to hang these $4,000-$10,000 doors perfectly . All the masters mulled over the procedure for days , Mock ups galore and seemingly no efficient system was found . There were instructional videos for these doors but it didn't help much . So somehow the flimsy jambs had to be set and anchored , Turned into a " The Jamb of Steel " and when the doors were hung . The double doors better shake hands like NASA was involved. The reveals better be as sweet as if you used a feeler gauge and the singles better hit the stop like a solid thud top to bottom . I made suggestion and was rebuffed each time , Until day three when they surrendered to me . Game on . Looking back . I use this same procedure on every door if I want it to survive a nuclear attack . It was so wonderful to be set free that I was singing , Walking the dog so to speak , I couldn't be rushed because I held The Keys . The procedure was a tripod and a beam laser . First align the laser roughly parallel to the wall surface . I knew I could be off a few degrees of arc and still maintain accuracy . Then sense the floor , The jamb perch and record . Precut each side of the jamb . Now sense the 4 points of the 8' wide opening frame . In a perfect world , They would be perfect ,, But being a framer . I knew plus the added pooch of a drywall finisher . Record ... Then check if the frame was out of plumb by putting the laser in front of the opening . See if you need to favor one side because once you commit , There is no going back .Dangle one side of the jamb and shim perfectly square at the top . For some reason the head jamb came later ?? Glue the shims . Set the laser visually to the center or side of the jamb . Then line up the bottom with the laser , Walk the rest down with a Stabila plate level . Then the next side and also taking into consideration the proudness of the frame and set accordingly . Maintaining a story spacer equal to the head jamb .Mount the hinges on the door and build a little drywall lift for the door . Waddle it in place with a helper and mount the hinges in the mortise . Bingo !! . After that . Nobody wanted anything to do with doors. Came out perfect and you'd think I'd get a bonus ?? Nope .. Ever since I use a laser to set doors and windows . glue my shims square at all points that need control and of course behind hinges and strikes . To me . A bubble level is a matter of interpretation . A good laser and everyone can see it from distance . I like levels in some situations . But if I can walk into a room and be within a few degrees of arc and far enough away . Line up top plate and bottom and you can see whether it's plumb or not without argument . All my doors after setting will be slammed to see if the drywall pops .I must hear a burp when it closes to the stop . No rattlers allowed .. Peace .. BTW .. I write a lot because I am disabled and got time .. I caught a bad case of stage 4 cancer and hope to shake it
I’ve watched a lot of videos about setting doors and this is one this pretty good. I have some tricks that make it easier but the most important thing in this before is: DON’T NAIL/Screw through the shims! Things move, buildings shift over time and you may need to readjust something over time. Also, you need to install the long screws that come with the door through the hinge (next to a shim), to secure the door plus it will pull the door into proper adjustment
I enjoyed the video. Like you I’ve hung many doors over the years. I was watching the video hoping he would talk about what happens of the eight minute 40 second mark. It happens on every door.
You underestimate my capacity to screw things up Tim.
Metabo is a monster!
nice job
You gotta get the Dewalt locking bit extension no more bits falling out
Excelente trabajo saludos 👌
I liked all the points of installation except my variation is after wedging the top jamb I shim just above the lower hinge, fine tune with shim just below upper hinge and then match shim height on strike side. Then finally fine tune strike side behind lock and where needed to make straight. Always screw as you did and never behind a hinge. Working slowly and methodically should take about 15 minutes.
I'm doing research on door installs and am finding confusing info on whether or not I NEED a metal/plastic sill pan. You don't use one here. Mind expanding on that?
If it doesn’t have a roof/porch over the exterior door I highly recommend putting a proper pan down. The plastic ones make it simple but usually do add a bit of build up. The nice thing is most pans come with a lip on the inside so incase water does get in, it won’t get by the lip(into the house) I’ve always stuck to more is better when talking about windows and doors. More caulking under the door and a decent pan it’s a cheap insurance policy
Awesome framers.. What is the yellow mesh for under the siding?
Not a pro, not connected to the channel, just been binge watching the channel and on a few of the siding episodes, they explain that the yellow mesh stuff is to stand off the siding from the wall to provide air flow as well as allow water to cleanly drop down to the bottom flashing. That way, no water can accumulate or pool, thus avoiding mold and stuff. I don't recall the name offhand. But, as I said, look for the siding episodes.
Those are no problem, it’s when you get the twelve foot tall double doors with a transom and Baldwin hardware that you better call a actual Finish Carpenter before you eat a ten thousand dollar door. 😊
Or you can find a framer that has transitioned back and forth for many years as a trim carpenter . 42 years myself as a carpenter that has cross-trained for years . Like learning the piano and then learning a guitar .
Nice work, just one question. You installed an exterior door from inside, OK. Most exterior doors have brick molding. Did you remove it?
We order it without and then trim it
My favorite when holding two guns is to twirl them and drawl "I got 2 guns, 1 for each of ya" to a coworker"
🤣🤣🤣
If it’s Gary Katz system I’m sure that I’m wrong but doesn’t it make sense to swap the order of screw 4 and 5? By putting the screw through the hinge after the bottom of the strike jamb is already fastened won’t that cause the reveal to change at the bottom? It’s more of a question for interior doors that don’t have a sill holding them together at the bottom.
I don't think when screw 4 is down so low.
Question: If you have an old door, but are making new jambs, is it worth it to "pre-hang" the old door to the jambs before installation???
Is Kyle the generic name you give all your young helpers?😂
🤣🤣🤣
i just figured they were getting replaced every so often by a different actor like a supporting role on James Bond
@@nathang.1561 pretty much, now if I could find Daniel Craig
Why use Siga tape on door openings and Zip tape on windows? Could you use Zip for both windows and doors?
Yep, you can. I stated in another video,just showing an alternative product. Not everyone can get Zip
What kind of caulk gun is that? Is it any good?
It's a common gun here, but I don't know the brand. It's been good
Idiot proof door install ? Well this might be for me. I hate doors lol
How does an idiot proof door work? How does it know?