Move Your Front Door Yourself! | Door Installation DIY
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2019
- Are you wishing your front door was in a different spot? It can be done! Moving your front door to a new location is easier than you think-especially when it's in an old house like this one.
Follow along as we share trade secrets to a water-tight entry door that is sealed up against water and air infiltration. Let's go!
Got a comment or question? Leave it below and I'll get back to you!
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The secret to a front door is knowing that just about every door has an R5 rating for insulation purposes. what sets the expensive doors apart is the quality of the finishes and the air seal. If you install a cheap exterior door from the building store you can get a superior result by following this example and spending the time to install it square plumb and flush. This way a $200.00 door will perform just as well as a $1000.00 door. Cheers!
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Videos produced by Home Renovision are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this website is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. The DIY instructions used here are used to simply breakdown projects to their simplest steps. Please use a clear mind and use all safety precautions while following the tutorials provided by this site. Home Renovision does not make any claims of the safety of the projects, techniques, or resources listed on this site and will not take responsibility of what you do with the information provided by this site. Viewers must be aware by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and Home Renovision cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. With different codes around the world and constantly changing standards, regulations and rules, it is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local requirements before undertaking any sort of project. That being said Home Renovision cannot claim liability with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. Be safe, have fun renovating and ALWAYS stay informed with your local building code. HomeRenoVisionDIY may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase something through recommended links. #commissionsearned 
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A long time ago, I wanted to ask if ever there would be a chance that you would move a front door. But I figured probably not, so I never asked. Lo and behold, little did I know you'd some day be working on your own century old house and moving the front door. When I got an email from Michele today with this episode listed, I couldn't believe my luck. And, you're going to be cutting out the center of the door for a glass insert. Again, I can't believe my luck! Thank you, Jeff. And 'hello' Matt and Max.
Thank you for finally making a clear video on how to do this. I am an avid DIY RUclips home improvement learner. Without the amazing people and companies like yours showing us poor people how to fix our homes, Lord knows I'd be living in a cardboard box that looks like Swiss cheese.
So I greatly do appreciate all the step-by-step advice and tips.
Finally somebody actually gets into the details of the door width and the framing and how wide to make the door rough opening. Thank You! seen four videos and nobody bothers to give you the details.
Another GREAT video Jeff ! it's helping me soldier on with a less than co operative crappy rough opening I made the mistake of making too large (I went the standard 2" over door size BUT went 2" over door slab AND jam, then butchered it trying to add 1x4 furring & whatnot)
I think I will end up tearing out the rough timber & just re do it all with new possibly straighter lumber *shakes fist* darn big box store substandard lumber. Sure wish I had a friend like you here :) Awesome videos!
Cant wait to see the glass insert as well as the keypad lockset installation! Another great video Jeff, Cheers!
Cheers, hope this helps!
Finally, a no bull real world install that isn't a marketing video from some Home improvement store.
Subscribed.
Have a great day.
definitely the best video I have seen on putting in an exterior door. I have seen a lot of them, and you covered pretty much every detail. Thank you
Glad to be helpful Wayne, Cheers!
In a similar situation where I had a huge gap on one side, I shimmed the gap with a 1x4 planed down to fill the gap on the hinge side where I wanted the whole door nice and solid- then used extra long screws on the striker side to make sure anyone trying to break the door down had to work for it.
Awesome video👍 I really hope you install an exterior door with a side light & all new framing in the future. My husband and I could really use your expertise!
enjoyed this video,thank you for taking the time out in your busy days to make these videos. your a pure gentleman and a master of diy
Thanks Lenny, we really just want to help people who are not getting any content that relates to them on t.v. Cheers!
Oh thank you thank you. This is do timely. I’m having someone change over my garage doors to two French doors next week. Now I have a guide to follow. Thanks Debbie
Cheers debbie, good luck with the project.
Jeff, I found your channel while searching for DIY videos and I'm glad I did. I'm learning so much from your videos. Thanks!
Happy to be of some help Dave, Cheers!
Nice job. More than I have to do, but always want to learn new tricks. The details of using
shims is most helpful.
Hey Jeff,
I just installed an exterior door and my house is more crooked than yours. So far so good! In another video, it would be great to see you change a metal door step. Sometimes in the 90’s they were making steel door but with a pvc door step. These tend to break and speciality stores sell the aluminium step cover. It would be nice if you showed us how to replace it without tearing everything apart, since usually the door itself is still good enough when the pvc door step is collapsing.
Cheers!
to get the blue skin to stick better in cold weather --,use a hair dryer to warm it up as you apply--really helps it stick to old wood .in the cold.
I've been looking for this video all week thanks sooooo much
Awesome mate. You explain things so well, it is greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
I love the random clanky noises before the siding falls free
This is great! I am learning so much from these videos. Thanks much.
You blow mike Holmes away bro! Thanks for the free info 👍👍👍👍
Always check for power, plumbing, or gas lines in a wall before you start ripping with a Sawzall.
Always great videos, great work and the best instruction! Thanks Jeff! ~Mitchell
Thanks Mitchell, glad to be off some help. Cheers!
Great tips
And great job
You deserve that coffee ☕️
Cheers!
Thanks Bay Whedon, I love myself a pot of Joe! Cheers!
Thank you. I bought a lovely exterior glassed door with iron between the glass, so now I have and idea how to install it. However my door does not have the jam. I hope it fits the old jam or else you must make another video.
Jeff, how did you know that I just bought a house and plan on replacing my exterior doors?!? Great to get the refresher course, keep up the good work.
Thanks Matt, I hope this information helps. Cheers!
Exactly the video I was hoping to find.
Always great teacher. thank you.
Thanks for this. My house is 120 years old and I am adding a new back door!
Did you install you new door yet?
Killin it Jeff, your level of effort really inspires me
Cheers Cam!
I like your threshold base to divert the water. The only thing that I would do different is taper it so that it is level when installed. Then you can place the door directly on top and skip the threshold shims. Cheers!
You are a true craftsmen! Great work as usual!!!
Thank you Cheers!
Love your videos. Very informative and easy to follow. Keep up the good work. I’m watching in the UK.
Cheers Tony, And Cheers to the UK>
I frame my rough opening before i cut the wall out. I also remove the brick mould and the door to install the frame. Much easier.
Love your channel! I have a question regarding my new door. We have a stone veneer and the old sil pan flashing was horribly cut aluminum. I ordered the PVC flashing to put in, but I’m wondering if the actual prehung door goes behind the veneer or up against it? Also, the brick mold for the prehung is not wide enough as the old brick mold was 5 1/2 inches. Will I most likely have to cut my own, or is there brick mold for 5 1/2 inches that can be bought like the other kits in the big box stores? Thanks as you have helped me with a lot of projects around my home!
That looks like an amazing foam gun. When you said to store the can upright, which way is up? With the canister resting on the gun?
Looks cold up there, stay warm :) . Saw the live show, looking forward to all the new content this year.
More amazon link/tool recommendation requests:
Air Compressor
Powered Sander
Level (not laser - box,i-beam)
Hammer Tacker? (hand stapler)
Construction Screws (brand, star or philips, common lengths to have on hand)
Construction Adhesive
Wood Shims
Hi Ferzan, I added the orbital sander, however the air compressor was too expensive to add and the box level I use is not available on Amazon. cheers. If you want to support our channel when shopping simply follow the link to our landing page and purchase anything you like. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY yep, I've been using the landing page. Trying to get a hold of the majority of tools and materials before starting my bathroom remodel. Especially with the quality of tools these days and at times some perform better for construction related tasks, it's nice to get a recommendation. Also helps to support the channel, win win in my book. Thanks!
Great video as always Jeff! I think you should do a presentation of the house in question,to see the bigger picture..
doing a tour before we close to talk about the master plan. Cheers!
great vid, thanks
Another excellent video!
Thanks Red Yumi, Cheers!
We have added a new doorway location to our house as well, since the existing entrance is through the garage. My question is about the blue skin on the bottom of the doorway, is that instead of using a sill plate? Or would you use it underneath a sill plate as well? Thanks for the great videos.
Love your channel Jeff! Now that you have a new entrance, will you be closing off where the previous exterior door was? If so, would you please film it?
Already done Valerie, we will be releasing that soon as well. Cheers!
Hi Jeff you always do a good job brother thanks for the video 🎼🎶🎺🌅 still snowing in Canada wao nice I like I live in Boston before and was nice and cool 😎
Cheers Ramon, we filmed this 2 weeks ago but yeah, it has been a slow cold spring this year.
Great video..just intime to refresh my memory on doors.. by the way you should do a video on that snap blade knife you have I swear you use that thing for everything lol.. have a good one
like 12 things I use my knife for. Cheers!
Your videos are great! Question... why do you use “milwaukee” everything except your drivers? Are you partial to DEWALT for some reason?
Hi Jeff just wanted to say love your videos
Thanks James, Cheers!
I am so scared to do this stuff. Yet, I want to do this stuff. Saving money is on my plate! Especially now. I need to take a class.
Great job Jeff... 👍
Thanks Ron!
Great vid. I would’ve thought the header would be installed 1st but I suppose it’s easier after.
it is of no structural effect. Cheers!
I wanted to do a Kool-Aid Man reference
AMAZING VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!
You make it look soooo EASY Peasy Japanesy
Cheers!
Hi Jeff ! Excellent video as always. 2 questions though.
1. As for the top of the door on the outside, is there something to install to prevent water from getting in ? I see you've installed the membrane but with the molding, wouldn't the part of least resistance be inside ?
2. For the studs you cut, did you have to support the roof or did you just cut them ?
Thank you so much for all the excellent work !
Question #1: along the top of the door, look for something called a window cap. It tucks under the siding, and has a 1 1/4" overhang with a curved edge to direct rainwater down the front of the door and not behind the brickmold. Finish it off with j channel molding for a nice finished look.
Question 2: depends on if the studs are load bearing. If they are, use 2x4s as jacks while installing your frame. For a load bearing header, you dont want the 2x4s to warp and bow under pressure, so make the header with two 2x4s sandwiched around a 1/2" piece of plywood or osb. This makes it exactly 3.5" thick, and install it vertically if that makes sense.
Have you added the glass insert yet? I’d really like to see how that’s done.
Still snowing in Canada... When does it warm up up there Jeff.
Great video btw!
warms up really slowly this year. maybe by june! Cheers!
Really looking forward to seeing the addition of the glass door insert, how far in the future will that video be coming out??
filming it soon so hopefully in a few weeks. I kind of want to finish the main construction in the room before adding the glass. cheers!
Hey Jeff, awesome video! I was curious how u measured the height of the door? So if you had an 80” door would you add extra 2” for the brick mold as well?
Great vid!
Cheers Peter!
Never try to cut an exterior wall without professional help. bearing walls have a lot of weight on them
With the two added 2x4's and the header he is adding later.... wouldn't the new framing carry enough load to cover the one missing stud?
Folding wedges. Excellent
ya like that eh. Cheers!
Excellent
Any way you can do a similar on to where you install a sliding glass door to replace windows. I’m doing a similar project and need some guidance.
Thanks for sharing that
Happy to help Hassan. Cheers!
I have to say thank you for putting out amazing videos. I've been following you for a while trying to learn proper ways to renovate our house. We started a few weeks ago on our very first room and it looks fantastic.
From patching walls, painting, to new flooring. I never thought I could do it. Thank you. 😍😍
That is great to hear Tessa, We would love to see some before and after pics or video. I like to upload them on to our Instagram to help inspire others. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I sure will. I'm still straightening everything up and working on decorating.
I cant wait to see how you install the glass in the door.
great video. sub earned.
I sure would like to see how to install the full vue glass in this type door
I think we will do it in the spring. Too busy now. Cheers!
You are the besssst
Jeff, I think you’ve mentioned the spray foam gun before but the blue skin? Is it linked on your amazon or are those 2 things available at Home Depot?
Hi Casey, blue skin is listed in my recommended products. The foam gun is listed in the tool section now. Cheers and thanks for your patience.
im loving these videos! also question, how are the inspectors in ON for wiring light switches and not connecting the ground screw to the switch when using metal boxes? Im about to do an inspection here in MB soon but really didn't want to consume more box space than necessary to pig tail 4 grounds for my switches. (would require an extra 2 connectors plus 5 extra ground wires to do this). I mean realistically all my switches upstairs are not grounded to the switch, but are grounded from the box and it still reads 120v with multimeter, so I cant get over how the inspector will react to this for a basement reno? thanks again! cant wait for more.
Jmaclicious new code rule for 2018 (which comes into effect here in Ontario May 16) in Canada which says if there is a ground terminal on the switch it must be connected to ground. Also all lighting switches must have a neutral wire from the circuit so that means no more 2 wire switch legs from the light fixture down to the switch. That said if you’re installing 4 switches you should have a 4 gang box. You should have 2 ground screws for each section of the box so technically you can get 2 ground wires per screw or loop around 1 screw with a long ground and go to 2 switches. Depends on number of cables and conductors in your box... lots of possibilities that could be discussed.
Signed a Geoff the electrician, AKA big fan of Jeff the HomeRenovision RUclips star.
Out the back of my house, there’s a exterior door, then there is a small adjacent shed that is not heated and another very old door. Water is getting in when it rains. The door is 34x80 but the frame is only 6 inches thick. Most doors that come with a frame are 7 1/4. I would like to mount the door flush with the outside wall cause the vinyl was just redone and although it’s a shed, it’s been redone as if part of the house. Before he installed the new vinyl, the contractor covered the actual door frame with aluminum. Should I just leave the aluminium, stick some blue stuff over it, install the new door frame flush to the outside and then what do I do with the extra 1 1/4 poking out in the inside?
Hope I’m clear.
What’s the blue water barrier tape being used here? And where can I get this or what else can be used ?
I'm always puzzled by the door installation methods we have. It's just holding by shims and screws and is not part of the structure. I'd be tempted to make the door frame structural and not something you just kick in. There is now a trend of replacing the screws with longer screws, but before I changed them I found 5/8 brass screws holding the main door in a previous apartment.
As an architecture student, I have to say this is pretty much best practice. Listen to what the man has to say if you do this on your own.
Hi, do you have any suggestions ? previous owners put a wall mount and it looks like they put some super strong wood glue and we cannot take it off (or even take off the wood attached to it ; wall has wood glued onto it ) no matter what we do it's as if it was super glue ! please help !!
I'm not sure where to put the door as far as the jam is concerned. Is it supposed to be flush on the outside and sticks in 1/2" for the drywall? If so then I would assume the molding on the outside will take up the thickness of the siding.
Can you Please put a link to the foam insulation adapter I can’t find one you can shut.? Awesome video as always🔨
Hi Ashley, I just completed the links for you. Cheers in my Favorite tools section. Have a great day!
Is there any issue with the gap on the front of the sill? From this angle it looks like the sill only makes contact with that thin piece of wood you put in the rough opening to force water out the front. Does that get shimmed anywhere? Is there any concern that the door sill will "rock" on that board you put in there? I noticed the shims are only between that board and the sill. Thanks!
Do I need to remove the frame of my door if its still good? Can I not just remove the door off the hinges and replace it with a new door and pop it onto the hinges? Of course the door would probably need some shaving done on the sides to make it perfectly flush but it be cheaper and easier if I could do that.
LOVIN IT!
LOL, Cheers my friend.
What gauge nailer were you using for the trim? 18ga?
Two questions! My contractor just installed an exterior door for me, and you can see at least half an inch of daylight between the door-sweep and the threshold. What do I do, aside from call him to fix it? I’d like to know since I’m getting into remodeling.
Also, he didn’t use blue water seal tape on the sides, just the threshold and 6” up on each side. What should I do to retroactively waterproof? Thanks in advance! Love your channel!
have him come back. making sure the bottom of the door is closed and supported is part of the job he was paid to do. He would rather you call then be upset with his work. we all make mistakes!
Great video! One minor question: Why didn't you just cut the outer siding, instead of removing it? I've installed a couple doors myself and I just do layout for the opening, set the depth of the circular saw (using test cuts), and carefully go for it. A reciprocating saw or jigsaw will finish what the circular blade doesn't cut. I guess I'm just coming from the perspective of a job site, where time is money. Again, great video!
Hi Brian, we are doing a complete remodel of this house so all the exterior facade was going to be removed anyway. no time like the present. Cheers!
Just curious how I fix the situation, post installation by the box store "professional" installers, who left me with an exterior door that won't hold it's position. Or, in other words, when I open the door and want to leave it opened, it just closes on its own. It's like the door is slightly out of plumb?
Jeff, are you using a magnetic tip on your screw gun?
Love your show, Gundy
You membrane taped up the door on top of the wood you said you'd be removing. How will you remove those boards now?
Question- I have a two story and want to put a door that goes from garage wall to under the inside stairs. Garage has just an attic above it and a living room with large opening to kitchen behind it. It’s drywall and studs. I’m assuming it is weight bearing. I haven’t seen anyone do supports when putting an exterior door. Is that just assumed or am I missing something? Rafters would be running parallel on top of this wall.
Dumb question but shouldn't the casing on the interior have a 1/2 inch reveal for the dry wall?
Always wanted to know how to properly do this. Thank Jeff !
Thank you Dave, BTW The thumbnail looks great! Cheers!
is the jam supposed to be flush with drywall and stucco or flush with the stud?
Do you have a tutorial on how to install an exterior door into the garage from the outside? It is on the concrete pad/garage floor.
I need an answer to this also ,plus I step down into the house.my house is over a hundred years old and balloon construction.
Hi DIY Team, true Canadian winter DIY video !) I don't know if this is the right place for an advice, but I have similar project I need to complete this month: creating a garage entrance door between a closed garage (not heated) and the adjacent house (will be entering in the hallway). In my case, it's only drywall on both sides with a wood studs wall and no problems (pipe, wires). My questions concern - would you use a simple drywall saw to cut the hole in the finished wall? - do you still need "blueskin" in the case of an indoor closed garage (but not heated)? and how do you hide the blueskin afterwards if it sticks to the finisehd painted drywall? - I will have to cut 1 or 2 wood studs of the wall (every 16") : is there a structural risk and create a top wood beam on top of the door and transfer the load to side studs or no problemo? If it's better to send an email, please lmknow. Many thanks Jeff, great content, Happy Canada Day (late) and July DIY! PS: can you send the reference of the steel door in video, couldn't find it on your website or amazon products.
Hi Antoine, the only code requirement there is that the door must close automatically. it must be a sealed entrance door and the trim must be sealed to the wall to avoid gasses coming into the home. no blue required. Cheers!
Great craftsman! Thank you for the detail and instruction. Good stuff.
how do you find out if there is any electrical or gas lines in the walls before you cut?
I'm not seeing blue skin listed at lowes. I do see it's called "blueskin building wrap"but still looking where it can be bought.
I would love to see how you install a header in this balloon framed house
2 jack studs and a header. simple. not structural just there to hold everything in place.
Ya just threw out a perfectly good farm style table top . 200 Craigslist all day LOL. Old door hole.
I have enough on my plate without little distractions like that. Cheers!
Would you be interested in making a short video on screw sizes and types? General rules of thumb of when to use what.
I know the information is scattered throughout the videos, I've heard you talk about them several times but hard to find now. I started keeping notes of the random tid bits you give out now so, when it comes time to start on the project I have a few summarized guidelines.
Actually, if you'd like I can send it over to you when it has a bit more content. More material for the tips/tricks in the newsletter or it might be helpful for someone else.
great idea. Cheers!
Dont you need to put a header for the new door hole prior to the door installation ? Love your channel!
Looks like there's already one there (8:16). Also, balloon framed houses really don't have headers in the modern sense- just big, straight grained lumber and really big nails.
Ah- @ 20:00 "Going to cut these blocks out and put in a proper header" ;)
I used one to hole everything in place but it is not structural in this case.
Good shit as always Jeff. How does that laser level work? If your floor isn't level doesn't that throw off the plumb of the line?
Hi Mike, the laser self levels up to 5 degrees of level. it flashes if it is not correct. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY oh that's slick. Thanks
Nice video.
Thanks Larry, has spring arrived where you live yet?
Home RenoVision DIY yes finally.
if only the builder of my new construction home watched this video... DIY Crew to the rescue
Loving it!