Make Your Doors Secure with this Easy Trick

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  • Опубликовано: 30 окт 2024

Комментарии • 1,4 тыс.

  • @kev_mclernon_family_channe4745
    @kev_mclernon_family_channe4745 2 года назад +259

    I’m a locksmith for almost 40 years. Nice to see the lock reinforcement which is standard for Schlage and some other brands. The flat stock on jamb is a great idea. I’ll be volunteering at the Greater Philadelphia Locksmiths Convention in a few weeks and I’ll be sharing your video with a bunch of people. Great job, I like how your video is produced for a typical homeowner. And yes on hearing and eye protection. I’m about one appointment from being told I need hearing aids. Best wishes. kev

    • @alphaforce6998
      @alphaforce6998 Год назад +11

      Even if they told you that you need hearing aids, how would you know?

    • @michaelhilber8284
      @michaelhilber8284 Год назад +11

      The Schlage deadbolt plate is better than this steel on the backside. The Schlage reinforcing plate is thick and has two offset holes, offset to the centerline of the wall, so that the 3 1/2 inch screws go well into the studs. And the Schlage plate goes on the face side of the jam, not the backside, so the deadbolt will be going all the way through it. Putting a plate on the back side of the jam means just the tip end of the deadbolt will extend through it - not good. I noticed that Schlage has changed their design now though, and apparently not all deadbolts come with the plate that has the offset holes.
      People can look up "SCHLAGE COMMERCIAL 37-016 Strike Reinforcer" to see the plate with offset holes.

    • @beemorgan3539
      @beemorgan3539 9 месяцев назад

      all I did was replace all screws and used 3 1/2'' deck screws on latch plates and door hindges @@michaelhilber8284

    • @artsteadman2230
      @artsteadman2230 9 месяцев назад +3

      ​@@alphaforce6998keep your day job. A comedian you're not

    • @alphaforce6998
      @alphaforce6998 9 месяцев назад +1

      @@artsteadman2230 That's uncalled for. 6 people found it funny.

  • @johnmcneal9477
    @johnmcneal9477 3 года назад +1021

    I retired from the Police Department after 23 years and investigated of lot of burglaries and home invasion's where doors were kicked for access. A few years back I hardened my three exterior doors with flat bar on the jam side and on the hinge side of my steel skinned doors. I also added a 4th hinge centered on the two bottom hinges. When a door gets kicked it is usually at knee height or lower and that extra hinge adds that much more strength on the hinge side. I also replaced my dead bolts with ASSA dead bolt lock assemblies. These locks cant be drilled or bumped and they are used in jail faculties and high security commercial building. I used a lot of the 4 inch stainless steel screws to be sure no one is coming in uninvited. The ASSA locks are crazy expensive but I have the peace of mind and or the reaction time in the worst case scenario. I also removed the side lites on my front door to keep anyone from smashing a window and just reaching it to turn the the deadbolt. One more tip. I installed a steel 6 panel door in the hallway (with flat bar) to our bedrooms. That has effectively made the back end of the house a big safe room giving us even more reaction time and one more layer of fire protection. I investigated more then a few cases where burglars used the home owners ladder to access non ground level windows. So all of my ladders are locked in the shop away from the house. Friends have asked if I am paranoid and I just tell them, "nope, I don't like surprises in the middle of the night".

    • @AnnaMaria-jj7yl
      @AnnaMaria-jj7yl 2 года назад +22

      Thank you for your service and for the tips. May I ask what brand door you installed? I'm having trouble finding a solid door.

    • @aaap3875
      @aaap3875 2 года назад +7

      Wise i will do the same

    • @SEMPER-FI-777
      @SEMPER-FI-777 2 года назад +16

      Question: Should or would it be a benefit to replace the factory screws that hold the hinge to the actual "door panel" with the 4" hardened screws that were applied to the jam? It just seems that without replacing said screws.....these original factory screws installed in the actual "door panel" becomes the week link in an otherwise fortified install. Thoughts/Suggestions? Thank you!

    • @pheorrungurd8746
      @pheorrungurd8746 2 года назад +11

      @irk hayner saddly, that is the tradeoff. But, they have tools to get in. Remember, the fire department has the Jaws of Life. Those would just munch through the door regardless.

    • @ShainAndrews
      @ShainAndrews 2 года назад +5

      @irk hayner Not their problem. That is a you problem.

  • @beansmalone1305
    @beansmalone1305 2 года назад +44

    As an electrician that often drills many holes through metal ive found that you can really extend the life of a drill bit by predrilling each hole with a self tapping sheetmetal screw. Then just throw the screws out as they dull.

    • @johnsmith9161
      @johnsmith9161 9 месяцев назад +2

      Good idea.

    • @gags730
      @gags730 8 месяцев назад +2

      Great Trick you 𝘯̵𝘢̵𝘪̵𝘭̵𝘦̵𝘥̵ it...screwed it ... A Tin Knocker showed me that when I was 17. Been doing it ever since. A few 1/4 self-tappers in the tool box takes up no room at all. I forget what brand but I bought a box of them and these self-tappers where better than drill bits.

    • @Squanto9
      @Squanto9 4 месяца назад +1

      Glad to see this comment as I was going to add it myself. I use 1" hex head self taping tek screws for metal, which are very hard. Would go right through that 3/16 flat bar faster than the bit in the video. Probably 10 times before starting to dull. I then use that screw in something and get out a new one.

    • @KStewart-th4sk
      @KStewart-th4sk 29 дней назад

      @@Squanto9 More than likely he had a dull or poor-quality drill bit. Should have been using a center punch there as well. I was a mechanic for 40+ years so i have drilled a lot of holes, plus getting out broken studs etc., so i would never be buggering around with self-tapping screws to drill a hole in thicker metal so i could use a drill bit after. Only time i ever used them were for proper application of whatever.

    • @psalmtt8784
      @psalmtt8784 12 дней назад

      The price of discarded screws would surpass the occasional drill bit replacement, especially since you can get packs of commonly used sizes of drill bits quite cheap.

  • @galaxiedance3135
    @galaxiedance3135 Год назад +29

    My Mother in law over in Europe has an amazing door to her Condo. The door is very heavy, you can feel it when you move it. Also, the entire frame was changed and when the key is turned, there are 8 seriously large pins that go into the frame, 3 on each side and 2 on the top. If you would lose the key, you can only get another from the company, there is something very special about it which makes copying it not possible. That is awesome! I loved it when I first seen it. I'm a Tool & Die Maker so I can actually tell that it's made very well!

    • @Anonymous-zv9hk
      @Anonymous-zv9hk 11 месяцев назад +6

      Are those types of great locks available from online sources in the USA? Thanks for the reminder of how seriously door security is taken in Europe and other foreign lands.

    • @galaxiedance3135
      @galaxiedance3135 11 месяцев назад +5

      @@Anonymous-zv9hk This lock wasn't a kit to add on.. My wife said that the company came and removed the entire door frame from her Condo and installed the new one. Not sure if I mentioned it but I guess regular locksmith can't open your door, must be someone from the company. also, if you're home, you can put your key inside the lock on the inside and then nobody can stick anything at all inside the lock on the outside! Talk about safe! haha! I don't remember the brand. I'll have to ask my wife about it. I think it's only in europe.

    • @superjeffstanton
      @superjeffstanton 8 месяцев назад

      ​@@galaxiedance3135brand pls

    • @1DwtEaUn
      @1DwtEaUn 8 месяцев назад +1

      @@Anonymous-zv9hk I've only seen what is described in vault doors here in the states.

    • @cynthiadunn9121
      @cynthiadunn9121 4 месяца назад +1

      I am no carpenter, not even close. How can I learn from you one on one? I am a single female and ive had my door broken into before 😑 Can we connect? You have valuable information that I would love to learn and teach. Thank you 🙏

  • @Irradiated316
    @Irradiated316 3 года назад +71

    Half my subscriptions are guntubers and the other half is woodworking channels. This was an epic crossover

  • @rjtumble
    @rjtumble 3 года назад +256

    Great stuff, thanks. I found a cool trick for cleaning up those metal shavings. Get a little magnet (like one of those telescoping magnets) and put it in a plastic or paper bag. Hold the covered magnet near the shavings and pick them all up. Go to a trash can and separate the magnet from the bag and voila, the shavings are picked up without having them all stuck to the magnet, works great.

    • @wallacegrommet9343
      @wallacegrommet9343 3 года назад +13

      That’s brilliant!

    • @Stubones999
      @Stubones999 3 года назад +12

      Use a pill vial, put the magnet inside and then remove the magnet to make it drop the swarf (trimmings)

    • @SenhorTudo
      @SenhorTudo 3 года назад +17

      I use a plastic screw-top jar with a loudspeaker magnet inside. This is kept against the lid with wadded up newspaper. I keep it nearby by simply sticking it against my steel shelves. This contraption goes into a plastic shopping bag, which I wave over the iron filings and pieces. I then turn the bag inside out and pull it away from the jar. Presto: all the filings are now in the bag.

    • @erikandreassen6531
      @erikandreassen6531 3 года назад +14

      Never thought of a plastic/paper bag. You've just fixed a problem I've just come across. Brought a metal nibbler and it does these 16th inch shavings.... a lot, this will fix it. Thank you great hint Oh using a recycled microwave magnet on a stick (so I don't have to bend down, getting old sucks for some things)

    • @CSCINF
      @CSCINF 8 месяцев назад +1

      Genius

  • @marshallness8874
    @marshallness8874 3 года назад +179

    With those extra long screws, work some paraffin wax into the threads. As the screw is driven in, the wax heats up and become a lubricant. When it cool it acts as a slight binder to keep the screws from walking out.

    • @paulparoma
      @paulparoma 3 года назад +2

      Is English not your first language?

    • @SirTodd
      @SirTodd 2 года назад +3

      Tis what the madam says

    • @chadhamner4210
      @chadhamner4210 2 года назад +17

      I understand what you're saying man. Thays for the advice.

    • @Machsmoke
      @Machsmoke 2 года назад +41

      Appreciate the old school advice. That hater up above is an idiot… You got your point across, and it made sense right off the bat.

    • @ericrichardson3332
      @ericrichardson3332 2 года назад +9

      Wax does help lubricate and doesn't to add especially when driving some long screws works good on hardwood too

  • @PunchingCacti
    @PunchingCacti 3 года назад +8

    Door technician manual and automatic here really proud of you using all the proper terms for the parts of a door. When most people hear Jam or Strike they think I am speaking a different language.

  • @jimbush8325
    @jimbush8325 2 года назад +15

    The one thing I haven't seen is for homes with double doors. The Double door security would be nice to see. Thanks for the info and I have shared this to people that I have been trying to help over the years.

  • @zacattack4029
    @zacattack4029 3 года назад +27

    Use a center punch to drill holes and the drill bit won’t walk on you.

  • @62Cristoforo
    @62Cristoforo 3 года назад +20

    im always amazed seeing ‘old pros’ who haven’t learned to hold their drills straight, or trying to speed through metal like its wood

  • @jonbottoms8988
    @jonbottoms8988 3 года назад +147

    I’m a locksmith and this is a great addition to the jamb. But remember that the door itself will also be split open. A wrap around for the deadbolt and lever will provide added protection for the door

    • @shadoman7682
      @shadoman7682 3 года назад +12

      Yep door can split, I added 1/4" steel plate either side of the locks, fixed with epoxy and M6 steel carriage bolts. That would take some punishment.

    • @TimmyMoza
      @TimmyMoza 2 года назад +10

      I was thinking same…. This is good, but just shifted weak point….. also add some of those grade 5 spax onto the hinge side, jist replace existing 2 of 3 or 4 hinge/jam screws….

    • @TexasEngineer
      @TexasEngineer 2 года назад +11

      You need multiple locking points to spread the load. Mine has four points. The second recomendation is don’t use a wood door. Use steel or fiberglass door. I have fiberglass. Guaranteed to break a leg before a door. It would take three or four shotgun blasts for the military to do a door breech.

    • @AnnaMaria-jj7yl
      @AnnaMaria-jj7yl 2 года назад +8

      @@TexasEngineer may I ask which brand door you found that comes with four points? I am having trouble locating solid multi-point doors in the US. Thank you.

    • @TexasEngineer
      @TexasEngineer 2 года назад +12

      @@AnnaMaria-jj7yl It is Masonite and it is not soild core. It is fiberglass with a foam insulated core. The insulation works really good. If you have ever tried to drill through fiberglass, it will dull a normal twist drill bit. I put a peep hole in it and I looked up on You Tube how to drill in fiberglass door. Turns out a wood spade bit works.
      Home Depot sold and installed the door and it was custom ordered. I have not seen the kick proof doors on display a Home Depot in a long while.
      In my engineering carrer I have delt with fiberglass in utility poles, radomes and fences and I have always been amazed at its strength and durability. It rivials mild steel in strength. Where I once worked they had a vault with a steel door. The steel vault door was filled with insulation, asbestos.

  • @chrisfromtx9089
    @chrisfromtx9089 2 года назад +13

    I appreciate what you said about buying yourself time to act. Hearing loss has made me feel vulnerable in my home especially at night. Making my home more secure is essential to my peace of mind. I'm having new exterior doors installed soon, and I plan on having my carpenter follow the steps in your video. Thanks again.

    • @johnmcneal9477
      @johnmcneal9477 Год назад +2

      May I suggest adding a good quality high powered flash light to the mix.

    • @SpringfieldGuy
      @SpringfieldGuy Год назад

      @@johnmcneal9477 ... and a 12 gauge pump shotgun.

  • @Lucas12v
    @Lucas12v 3 года назад +16

    Good video. I also like the acknowledgment that no door or security is unbreakable but that it buys time to think and to act.

    • @matthewblumenthal804
      @matthewblumenthal804 6 месяцев назад

      This! Nothing is impervious given time and effort. The idea is to both make the place too much of a pain to bother with and give you time to prepare for a really persistent optimist.

  • @davidbates4646
    @davidbates4646 3 года назад +44

    Nice job! Who ever told you to use cutting oil when drilling, was right. If you slow down your drill (very slow) it will cut better and your bits will last longer!

    • @jamesbrigham1299
      @jamesbrigham1299 3 года назад +4

      I drilled Class 5 and Class 6 safes. Cutting oil drastically improved drilling efficiency and bit longevity, over bit alone.

    • @miketrusky476
      @miketrusky476 Год назад +4

      Dish soap, try it.

    • @contractor556
      @contractor556 Год назад +2

      Correct

  • @hoangthang8772
    @hoangthang8772 Год назад +157

    I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!

  • @sightlinestrategies
    @sightlinestrategies 3 года назад +61

    Seriously one of the best realistic safety improvements that anyone can do for our selves and loved ones. Thank you this was incredibly helpful.

  • @nigelqflarp
    @nigelqflarp 3 года назад +17

    Great video on reinforcing a door jam! When I worked for the owner of lots of different rental properties, a lot of tenants asked for door chains to help secure the door thinking that it would help a lot. The owner did not like the metal reinforcing, but I used the longer hardened screws like you showed. I had to explain to the tenants that you could weld steel around the whole apt (etc), and if someone wanted in they would have to use a cutting torch, which would at least slow them down! Delay them or make them make enough noise to attract attention, these are your best deterrents!

  • @madmak9
    @madmak9 3 года назад +17

    Thanks Mickey. As a Master Locksmith with 40+ years of experience I agree with what you said. Almost all deadbolts have a 1" throw though, so you can't really buy a longer "bolt", and if there is too much of a gap between door & frame (over 1/4"), you can design that plate to go on the outside instead of the inside of the frame, effectively making a single long strike plate for both the latch and bolt together.

    • @CarryTrainer
      @CarryTrainer  3 года назад +1

      I could have described that a little differently. What I was meaning to say is that the bolt can penetrate to different depths depending upon how installed. Again, not intended to be a how to install a door video or even a lock set video. Thanks for your add

  • @keithcress1335
    @keithcress1335 Год назад +4

    Thanks for this! I'm replacing my doors shortly and this was perfect timing.

  • @Swiat34
    @Swiat34 3 года назад +15

    Hardware stores have strike plates that have a fully enclosed bucket for the knob and deadbolt. There are better ones that accept a screw in the bottom of the bucket to run into framing. So I’ve used 4” screws through all 3 screw holes of each strike plate and two in each of three hinges. This prevented a very obvious break-in attempt barely a week later.

  • @mehameha4453
    @mehameha4453 3 года назад +14

    It is a great add-on skill when you install doors for a living. At my first apprentice job, My boss used to make extra money for the company by selling this during the install. It was very lucrative. Most people wanted it. We had pre-cut metal and holes drilled so the job was a slap it on and go.

  • @johnbarker419
    @johnbarker419 3 года назад +6

    I've put long screws through the lock plate & hinges and into the studs in all my exterior doors, but since deciding to do so haven't installed a new door. Next time I do I'll put a steel plate into the frame as well. It's a great tip.

  • @emmsue1053
    @emmsue1053 11 месяцев назад +2

    This is excellent, thank you. I have been broken into some years ago. The door did not go, it was the frame that failed. Strengthen around your doors as well.

  • @dienekes4364
    @dienekes4364 Год назад +3

    This is awesome. I also bought the reinforced strike plates that extend across both the door latch and the deadbolt latch. Using these actually made both my front door and garage doors close and latch more smoothly. I need to change my front door out because it's 24 years old, wooden, lowest builder-grade and it keeps swelling. I've had to shave several mil off the top 3 times now to get it to stop sticking. I want to put a security door in its place, as I'm going to be turning this house into a nightly rental in the near future.

  • @jhp3851
    @jhp3851 11 месяцев назад +1

    @carrytrainer I like (love) towards the end you commented "Tell someone you love them!!!" Solid man!!! I'm going to use this in addition the the 1ft 2-hole strike plate you can buy at HD/Lwes. Those simple things on every exterior door will deter almost anyone!!

  • @jr303official
    @jr303official 3 года назад +71

    I've done this, but I epoxy the plate to the door aswell with screws, it then distributes forces through the whole plate and not just the screw areas.

    • @edstimator1
      @edstimator1 3 года назад +2

      exlt!

    • @geoh7777
      @geoh7777 3 года назад +2

      Multiple smaller screws would be close to the epoxy method in strength and allows simple plate removal just in case.

    • @jr303official
      @jr303official 3 года назад +3

      @@geoh7777 I agree, I just see it as it should me their for the life of the door, and done right their should be no need to remove it.

    • @fshalor738
      @fshalor738 3 года назад +4

      I've actually had a door I "buffed up" with super glue on the flapper bar + gorilla glue on the strike plate screws and one hinge survive an attempted breach.
      Hinge side on your door needs more love. If you back stop the center hinge TOO the same way (it'll be easier! I promise), it'll hold.
      My win was on a college rental with a bunch of girls inside. Meth head hammered the crap out of the door I'd added a bit of stuff to at 3am on them. It some how held. Same dude went next door and went right through a locksmith installed upgrade deadbolt set like it wasn't there since the hinge side had nothing but trim screws on it. Made off with aa few K in laptops and TV's.
      ./fshalor goes off to buy some more 1/8th" tomorrow.

    • @jr303official
      @jr303official 3 года назад +2

      @The RealMathilda What do you mean windows? Windows glass can just be broken and opened. Unless you put security film.

  • @bryannorris8049
    @bryannorris8049 3 года назад +29

    If you perform hardening of your entry points, make sure loved ones who may be checking on your wellbeing have access. I have a coworker who has a sister with a medical condition. She'd barricaded her doors because she lives alone and is infirm. She had a medical incident to which he had to respond. He ended up having to break out a window in her home to gain access to her. It ended up costing him a lot of time trying to get her medical help.

    • @ralphjohnson5084
      @ralphjohnson5084 Год назад +3

      Had a similar situation w/ my G/F's sister (she didn't make it) . I was able to easily able to breach/access the house though, from years of my fire/rescue experience.

    • @AscDrew
      @AscDrew 9 месяцев назад

      Window doesn’t take long, and much cheaper to replace the glass pane vs a door/door jamb.

    • @jammersix8519
      @jammersix8519 8 месяцев назад

      @@AscDrewHaving been there, when the fire department kicks down your front door, you won't care about the cost in dollars.

    • @AscDrew
      @AscDrew 8 месяцев назад

      Sure I will. And I’ve been there too. Much more reasonable to cause $100 in damage vs $500-1000 or more.

    • @MichaelCook1981
      @MichaelCook1981 4 месяца назад

      @@jammersix8519Kicking in the door is the last resort, we have too many tools on the Engine or whatever apparatus to get through a locked door, lock pullers, wedges designed to manipulate a lock, lock picks, saws. It also depends on the type of emergency, if it’s life or death, we’re going to use the fastest way possible, non emergency, we’ll try to minimize the damage to the property.

  • @jeffeverde1
    @jeffeverde1 11 месяцев назад +6

    Staggered screws are a good idea. But your screws set near the edge of the jamb are barely catching the framing. Remember that the jamb is the width of the trimmer stud PLUS two pieces of drywall (so the jamb edge is flush with the finished surface). The edge of the stud is inset 1/2" from the edge of the jamb; position your screws accordingly

  • @wesman7837
    @wesman7837 3 года назад +3

    I have made several of these, but I only used 1-1/2" wide steel because all that meat on the side that is away from where the pressure would be applied doesn't do much good, and I was placing them on door's that were already installed, and just put them on the inside of the door jamb, and they worked out great! I probably used between 12-16 3-1/2" screws, and I used a much larger bit to make recessed screw holes so the screws would sit flush so they didn't interfere with the door.
    It might not be as pretty as his hiding behind the jamb, but I bet mine is stronger because of the leverage against the dead bolt, and mine also has a hole for the regular door lock also.

  • @Hunterhunter-ir9nz
    @Hunterhunter-ir9nz 3 года назад +7

    Thanks for the ideas. Some doors are better than others though. So the door itself may also need re-enforcing. Years ago I locked myself out of a rental with my keys, and phone in the house. So I figured I'd just "carefully" kick in the door and repair the frame and strike plate. I made progressively harder kicks just to the door, right below the door knob so as to just damage that area. Since just the door knob was locked and not the deadbolt. The door ended up "opening like a banana" opening up in the middle. The door frame and doorknob held. Though it did ruin the door knob latch also. I was actually surprised! I would have bet that the frame would have given first! Normally does!

  • @georgelowe8583
    @georgelowe8583 Год назад +2

    Nice job, well presented. I harden my front door with steel plate & inside frame. But you are right that’s just the first step. I also, have a backup alarm & a Boston Terrier that owns the place. She beats the alarm way before it goes off, if some even knocks on the door.

  • @brianbosox
    @brianbosox 3 года назад +5

    Great Video. I actually just installed 2 doors on my Cabin up in New Hampshire. I did the exact same thing. My father taught this technique to me years ago. Well Done. 👍🇺🇲

  • @b.s.adventures9421
    @b.s.adventures9421 Год назад +58

    I became adamant about hearing protection at 19 years old when I realized all my dads buddy’s from the trades were pretty damn deaf.
    Now in my 40s I’m glad I made that choice.
    I can still hear near perfectly !

    • @justadbeer
      @justadbeer Год назад +3

      Yup, When i was a young tradesman I made sure I did that with my kids when I realized was losing my hearing due to the lack of safety standards in the trades at the time

    • @galewinds7696
      @galewinds7696 Год назад +4

      Huh.....what did you say....I'm a little hard of hearing. 😳👀🤔

    • @kennethmiller2333
      @kennethmiller2333 Год назад +1

      That's one of my "if I could turn back time" issues.

    • @DirectCurrent4u
      @DirectCurrent4u 11 месяцев назад +1

      What???

    • @nathanrunkle2128
      @nathanrunkle2128 9 месяцев назад +1

      My neighbor &I wear H.ng, protection when mowing too ! !

  • @itsjustjoe3790
    @itsjustjoe3790 3 года назад +198

    There are some products at Home Depot that do similar jobs after the door is already installed for like $25. Don’t forget to reinforce the hinges too with steel

    • @musicman1eanda
      @musicman1eanda 3 года назад +4

      Yeah that's what I'm gonna look at

    • @musicman1eanda
      @musicman1eanda 3 года назад +4

      Do you remember the specific names of the products?

    • @Mateo31279
      @Mateo31279 3 года назад +17

      @@musicman1eanda Door Armor

    • @TommyboyGTP
      @TommyboyGTP 3 года назад +17

      Also use the long wood deck screws for the door frame, and also the trim the dead bolt and door locks go into. That's the first thing that breaks off when a door gets kicked in.

    • @CheZfrmdaWestWisc
      @CheZfrmdaWestWisc 3 года назад +15

      You can do this with your door installed to just remove the inside trim and slide your plate in it won't be that hard.
      also in new construction I could see that Plate haveing tabs on it to wrap around the outside and screwed into the king stud so you would be kicking against the long tabs not the screws alone. If you're doing a rain screen type siding install there would be plenty of room behind the siding for such tabs.

  • @willfinley3935
    @willfinley3935 3 года назад +66

    Micky, as a locksmith I can say this is a great start to hardening an entry point. I have a few more easy and inexpensive upgrades in mind for the everyday homeowner if you’d like to expand a bit more into this field.

    • @josh48315
      @josh48315 3 года назад +6

      Oh yeah let us know!! Please tell

    • @maximumwoof8662
      @maximumwoof8662 3 года назад +2

      will the locksmith, take a look at my entry above.

    • @gtcam723
      @gtcam723 3 года назад +7

      I’m guessing hinge side?

    • @jbulick
      @jbulick 3 года назад +2

      Please share, I'm curious.

    • @sais9221
      @sais9221 3 года назад +1

      Pls share

  • @deebee4575
    @deebee4575 3 года назад +171

    This should be standard on all suburban exterior doors. Good stuff!

    • @brandonmyers3092
      @brandonmyers3092 3 года назад +10

      Should be an option from the manufacturer too.

    • @rangersmith4652
      @rangersmith4652 3 года назад +9

      Builders should pay attention to what their subcontractors do. My house, functionally completed in 2019, has three exterior man doors with dead bolts, and in all three jambs the bolt hole was not drilled deep enough to allow the bolt to be fully engaged. Home inspector should have caught this, too. I fixed them and installed longer screws, but this procedure is what I really need.

    • @FJB2020
      @FJB2020 3 года назад +4

      @@brandonmyers3092 Most new doors already have a hardening plate installed and include longer hardware...

    • @randallsmerna384
      @randallsmerna384 3 года назад +3

      That'll cost another $200... Bend over...

    • @randallsmerna384
      @randallsmerna384 3 года назад +5

      @@FJB2020 That hasn't been my experience.

  • @Stubones999
    @Stubones999 3 года назад +5

    Add pins in the hinges to strengthen them too... Also Door Devil makes a kit to do what you did, probably more pricey, but no drilling of steel needed. Great video Mickey!

  • @gdubbsmotolife9713
    @gdubbsmotolife9713 3 года назад +4

    Excellent work on the jamb. Very strong. Now the weak point is the door itself, depending on the material. A fire door like yours is a good choice. 👍

  • @richardsmith4187
    @richardsmith4187 3 года назад +3

    Great video, When I moved into a apartment 20 years ago I took the door off and did this same thing and put a heavy duty dead bolt on the door. Peace of mind when you are away or at home. Never mind the German Shepard and Mr. Sig LOL Never had a problem in 2 years and then bought a home.

  • @williammoore4380
    @williammoore4380 3 года назад +8

    Well done. Even if a person uses a slightly different twist, this gets the grey matter working. I have used angle iron on the frame, just drill through jam and steel. I also like to use solid Oak for shimming. I buy the 3 or 4" wide craft boards in different thicknesses. A belt sander helps to make small adjustments to thickness. Apply a little wood glue between them(but NOT on jam or stud side), no compression even if a pry bar is used.

  • @AZBADBOYz
    @AZBADBOYz Год назад +16

    Decades of door work myself so I have a few suggestions. First, you badly need an impact, you'll stop spinning heads of screws. Even one turn will make a colored screw ugly. Second, I'd highly recommend also replacing the hinge screws on the door side as well and do all 4. The rails of the door are three times thicker than a typical hinge screw so use some 2" screws. I also countersink the hole a little larger to get the head flush for larger screws. Lastly, add another deadbolt with a thumb turn. One more bolt through that jamb adds significant strength.

    • @michaelhilber8284
      @michaelhilber8284 Год назад +1

      I bought my first impact just recently. the Flex 1/4 from Lowes, it's awesome, 2 batteries, charger all for $99, great tool.

    • @drewinstallshardware
      @drewinstallshardware Год назад +1

      Great suggestions!

  • @davidgraemesmith1980
    @davidgraemesmith1980 3 года назад +8

    Nicely done, I live in a rental apartment and fastened 3*30mm mild steel bar to the inner faces of the door jamb all the way round using 4*120mm decking/framing screws to hold the frame together after seeing a neighbor kick in his own apartment door when his young daughter locked him out also got hinge pins and a few linked mortice bolts to really hold door and frame together.
    65mm thick reclaimed maple door fitted as the standard 45mm fire check door had been messed up with night latch locks and a mail slot, solid maple door found in an old church fit the door frame perfect except I had to refit the trim molding 😏 landlord "suggested" that I paint the door to match the others in the building so I added a 0.5mm thin steel sheet exterior face painted piano black epoxy, it's held to the door using polyurethane based vehicle adhesive 😁

    • @lyfandeth
      @lyfandeth 7 месяцев назад +1

      Now THAT'S a secure door. I'm afraid to even guess what that much "scrap" maple sold for.

    • @davidgraemesmith1980
      @davidgraemesmith1980 7 месяцев назад

      @@lyfandeth I had to haul the door away from the church before the demolition and restorative contractors put it in the trash, kinda like dumpster/skip diving lol the mild steel angle was sorta cheap too, it was bent/warped from hanging on a rope for years in a workshop roof space, I cost me less than half regular cost.

  • @skiptrace4034
    @skiptrace4034 3 года назад +23

    Great video!!! I've been a glass door mfg for a couple decades and this is always overlooked. Everyone always thinks the glass is the "soft spot" when in reality it's always either the strike being kicked through the jamb or the hinges being ripped out in forced entries. I've got Door Armour max on all my doors. Little pricey but for less than $80 a door I know I've got a little more time should someone try forced entry.

  • @lordrichard8184
    @lordrichard8184 3 года назад +15

    That plate is a neat idea. I’ve talked to an army ranger that said even 3.5” drywall screws in the strike plate make it way harder to kick in a door. The crappy 1” screws really don’t do much.
    I’d love to see you try to breach a mock up door like this. And a door secured with 3.5” drywall screws and the crappy 1” ones.

    • @madusonkeeper
      @madusonkeeper 2 года назад +1

      Works amazingly well with a steel door

    • @rbnhd1976
      @rbnhd1976 Год назад +7

      Use better screws, those drywall screws will shear

    • @ohiofarmer5918
      @ohiofarmer5918 11 месяцев назад +1

      Yes on the better screws Use deck screws

  • @sunnyvoid7206
    @sunnyvoid7206 2 года назад +3

    I figured this one out on my own I have since installed something like this on all my outer doors and my bedroom door, after all the most valuable things are resting in beds. However I used 90° angle iron so it comes out behind my strike plates and I just chiseled out wood from my trim to accommodate the steel.

  • @peterwright4647
    @peterwright4647 3 года назад +45

    Great ideas for strengthening your main entrance. I’ve added a storm/screen door with a deadbolt. It is sacrificial. It must be breached before accessing the main door which will create noise and add a few seconds for me to prepare for my response.

  • @Surveillance-Opertaor-Zero
    @Surveillance-Opertaor-Zero 3 года назад +46

    i worked at a door shop and would harden the door frames for free including adding kick plates

  • @chrisscoleri2341
    @chrisscoleri2341 3 года назад +26

    Here is what I have done with my exterior doors to harden them. It’s very similar to your method but mine was done when installing the door. First, prior to hanging the door, I used .120 x 2.00 HR angle on the framing for the full length. I have it set in with construction screws going both the way the hinges and dead bolt go and perpendicular to it. This puts the screws into both shear and tensile strain for handling the load of an attempted forced entry.
    The dead bolt and screws all go through the angle putting that shear load into the steel and framing. The same goes for the hinge screws. Threaded angle on the framing, Screwed in both ways. At this point, all the load of a forced entry goes to the angle and structure framing. After watching you build the plate, I thought that could be used for version 2.0 where some flat bar, as you were using, could be placed in a slot routered into the door edge and with the screws set to spread the load into the door. The bolt would pass through the .120 flat bar stock and replace the cover plate which holds the deadbolt and latch to the door edge. I can mill that out of the flat bar, but it would be a little more challenge for the average DIY guy. You probably could do it with a hole saw, a Dremel, and some patience.
    Can you get through it? Maybe, but the force needed would be tremendous. It’s unlikely a single person could do it without blowing the hinges off with a shotgun/slugs. I don’t think a ram would pop that door.
    The idea is to give me enough time to respond. And, as you mentioned, the door is one part of several layers of security. Walls, gates, lots of exterior lighting, cameras, landscape, and dogs tell wanna-be home invasion artists to find another target.
    One other thing I do when installing a door is run the screws that mount the door frame through the thicker jamb. I counter-bore the hole to set the screw below the surface and glue in a plug. Once finished, you can’t see any evidence of mounting screws - nice and neat. Bear in mind, my design puts the load on the angle and into the structure framing. The door frame no longer bears the load of the door being forced open on either side.

    • @billiamc1969
      @billiamc1969 3 года назад +3

      Unfortunately, the doors sold at Homecheapo are VERY poor quality and will splinter to pieces if someone kicks at the lockset area. Reinforcing the jams is a great idea, but if you just have a cheapo non-reinforced door, well you are just hiding behind a weak door that can/will be kicked in...

    • @elgringoec
      @elgringoec 3 года назад +1

      That's a great post, and I agree with the apiary guy that once the frame sides have been strengthened to such a great degree, the door itself would fold and crumple with sufficient ramming.
      But they can just bust out a window for easy access. Or bust through the cavity between studs if nothing else.

    • @FL.Cracker
      @FL.Cracker 3 года назад +1

      @@elgringoec If there is a will, there is a way.

    • @edstimator1
      @edstimator1 3 года назад +3

      You're only as safe as the weakest link (windows?) but yeah....this is a great start.

    • @dyrdek
      @dyrdek 3 года назад +3

      @@billiamc1969 all homedepots entry doors have a 1/8 4x4 kickplate behind the jamb. with about 25 large staples thru it makes it a 4-5 kick door easily. ive been installing them for over a decade

  • @briansheedy5779
    @briansheedy5779 3 года назад +6

    Great tip!! I’ve always felt this is a weak point on doors so I think I’ll be doing this on all exterior doors I install from now on

  • @millionkilliati6140
    @millionkilliati6140 3 года назад +6

    Great video!! My pops always told me out swing exterior doors are harder to get into in general. Thanks for the knowledge!

  • @jimcole6423
    @jimcole6423 3 года назад +5

    Nice video! I have an older car jack, that when placed horizontally in the door jamb, will expand the frame with three clicks and push the door open with one finger.

    • @CheZfrmdaWestWisc
      @CheZfrmdaWestWisc 3 года назад +1

      That has to be addressed when building the house though I have come up with a few good fixes but they should be done with the wall open

  • @jasonmpd2946
    @jasonmpd2946 3 года назад +17

    Investing in a set of legitimate high speed steel drill bits makes everything easier and more precise. Good content. Home security is no joke.

    • @leighchristopherson2455
      @leighchristopherson2455 3 года назад +1

      Cobalt are even better, as it is a harder metal, but still not too brittle. Cobalt is so hard that it can be used as a knife without heat treating, and it will hold an edge longer than hardened steel.

    • @glenturney4750
      @glenturney4750 3 года назад +2

      Plus a fence that surrounds your entire house with 5 hungry drooling Rottweilers roaming back and forth tends to ward off home invasions. 😁👍

  • @mltndeal5120
    @mltndeal5120 2 года назад +2

    Someone kicked in my front door three weeks ago. So I put a flat strap they use on metal stud framing. I put it behind my door jamb to make my door more stronger. 👍 I'm a carpenter so I put the 6 inch wide flat strap to use. My jamb won't get blown out again.

  • @daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932
    @daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932 3 года назад +39

    Awesome 😄
    Great tip for everyone and fairly easy to retrofit on an existing door. It might be helpful to show everyone how to reenforce one that’s already installed.
    I’m getting ready to do the same thing today 😄. We had someone kick the door in on a spec a few years ago so I’ve been reenforcing them all sense. Such a simple and effective solution!

    • @earthenscience
      @earthenscience Год назад +3

      Good video but where did he get the $3 steel? A plate like that costs $10 or more at home depot

    • @daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932
      @daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932 Год назад +2

      @@earthenscience a steel supply house. The cost difference is a convenience charge because this is not their area of focus. HD is great for building supplies but not the place to save money on stuff like this.

    • @earthenscience
      @earthenscience Год назад +1

      @@daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932 oh ok, thanks. What are the names of some common steel supply houses in America?

  • @krodkrod8132
    @krodkrod8132 2 года назад +4

    I just did this to my new house. I didn't know there was kits out there you could buy. I went all the way around the door, and door jamb. I also added 3 more dead bolts on top of the one that was already there. I have 3 deadbolts on the handle side and one on the top of the door. With 6 inch lag screws everywhere. Anyone that tries to kick it in will need a knee replacement. I also used construction adhesive under all the steel.

  • @leonlegion
    @leonlegion Год назад +3

    ... Great video . In my experience , making the door open outwards instead of inwards means you can really beef up the door frame . Adding dogbolt hinges , espagnolette bolts and an additional steel armour plate over the whole lock and handle area is what I do . Our Spanish house has all of these , plus inch thick anti chainsaw bars in the door ...

  • @POSMhorsefarmer7
    @POSMhorsefarmer7 Год назад +3

    Praise God! Thank you for your clear presentation & showing what you are actually doing. We watch videos on our TV from Roku. It doesn't allow us to comment. Got out my computer so could comment. Thanks. REALLY!!!:)

    • @POSMhorsefarmer7
      @POSMhorsefarmer7 Год назад +1

      Watching another video, they said door handles with a longer handle (like a 7 handle) were easier to break into. I hope this helps someone. Thanks again.

  • @troyeager8877
    @troyeager8877 3 года назад +3

    My dads door was done with the metal strip between the door and replaced the striker plate. He also had brass wrap around on the door around door knob and dead bolt. I like your steel location better. More cosmetically pleasing and I believe stronger by keeping the steel brace closer to the stud. Thanks for the video.

  • @CrimeVid
    @CrimeVid Год назад

    This is a useful video for people that worry about such things. All I can say is that if someone really wants to get into a domestic property they can, reasonably easily. I’ve seen brickwork crushed off doorframes with a small port-a -power more than once.

  • @mr.wright4447
    @mr.wright4447 2 года назад +4

    Great video. This exactly the video I’ve been looking for, we’re putting new doors in and I want to make them as secure as possible. Thanks!

  • @injuneer7942
    @injuneer7942 Год назад +1

    Excellent video! I'm not in the process of removing my three outside doors and reinforcing them IAW your video .... Great idea!

  • @karimmanassa9634
    @karimmanassa9634 3 года назад +5

    This is excellent. Living in Florida I have hurricane impact windows and doors, along with Medeco commercial grade extra long dead bolts, but we may be moving to a place where impact doors and windows are not necessary and was looking for a more cost effective alternative. 3M makes impact film for the windows, but I was stumped at what to do with the doors and this timely video answered that! Looking forward to training with you December 2nd in Homestead. Thank you.

    • @talisikid1618
      @talisikid1618 3 года назад +1

      Every place needs the sturdiest doors possible. Everything is changing & unstable.

  • @Billybob-go8hn
    @Billybob-go8hn 3 года назад +5

    I’m a carpenter myself, on all my exterior doors I have a steel plate running from the bottom of door to the top, I added a one way dead bolt a foot from the ground. My hinge side has all 4 inch screws. I can’t wait for someone to try it. Then I made custom windows bars for all my windows. Honestly my house is a fortress. Mag drill makes drilling all these holes a lot easier. Prob over kill but got to many guns in the house!

  • @mishellekochel4510
    @mishellekochel4510 3 года назад +3

    Excellent tip. Think we don't do enough or don't know enough to be truly safe as most of us don't think like a criminal. Thanks!!

  • @joshmajor8662
    @joshmajor8662 3 года назад +6

    Thanks Mickey!!! You should do another one of these for an already installed door 👍🏼

  • @stargazer2504
    @stargazer2504 3 года назад +4

    Great stuff. As far as doors with windows- we special purchased hurricane rated doors and glass (easy to get in Florida, not easy inland). While you can still break in with a sledgehammer, it would buy us time and/or alert the neighbors with the ruckus required to break in. A plus is much less noise from the outside getting in.

  • @christopherdillon8777
    @christopherdillon8777 3 года назад +8

    This is VALUABLE and even LIFE SAVING info everyone should be using to secure their homes. I lived in Mansfield Texas a few years ago and there was a rash of door kickins around the holidays and this simple system would’ve saved people a lot of problems..

  • @paraAA82
    @paraAA82 3 года назад +3

    Dear sir, with all that gear, the tool belt, the drill, the tape measure you look the part. Thank you so much for sharing this extraordinary safety tip.

  • @rossm412
    @rossm412 Год назад +1

    Great work. Thank you for your time and sharing. Be blessed 🙌🙏

  • @denniss618
    @denniss618 3 года назад +12

    As a door installer I found 2 errors, 1 use a 1" hole saw for the lock, it's faster. 2 the holes that you drilled near the edge of the jamb will go into the drywall of the very edge of the framing ..... hence will not help to secure the frame.

  • @mainstreampropaganda7518
    @mainstreampropaganda7518 2 года назад +2

    Your approach makes the whole thing holistically understandable! well done and thank you!

  • @skipstevson9713
    @skipstevson9713 2 года назад +14

    If you harden the frame, which is a great idea, then the door itself might become the weak point. If you were building a new house, using a commercial steel door with steel door frame would
    be another way of securing egress points for your house. I have often wondered why builders don't have this as an option. Maybe some builders do.

    • @bryceg5709
      @bryceg5709 2 года назад +3

      The issue is that most criminals aren't gonna kick your door in. Informal information but from what I've seen on our area it's sliding deck doors, then sidelight windows, followed by garage doors where you push the top panel and hook the emergency release. 100% harden your doors but I think doing this to your bedroom is probably more valuable than an exterior door. That or a safe room.
      But you're a criminal you walk up to an exterior door it could be metal clad or solid wood it could be dead bolted or not. You don't flat out kick it you could break your foot or ankle. You walk around back you break the glass or you pry the slider off track.

    • @chrisgreene9745
      @chrisgreene9745 Год назад

      Money ?

  • @MacXcode
    @MacXcode Год назад +1

    Thank You for taking the time and teaching us this! My family and I are very grateful and we will implement this pronto!

  • @AWIERD1
    @AWIERD1 3 года назад +4

    Deviant Ollam has a great speech on the matter of physical pen testing and doors and locks in general. His job requires him to test the physical security of various businesses and if at all possible to exploit easily overlooked weaknesses and teaches his clients on ways to make it not so easy or downright impossible.

    • @AWIERD1
      @AWIERD1 3 года назад +1

      Like if your hinges are on the outside there are products that you can replace a couple of the screws within the hinge with a stud and you just unscrew the screws opposite of the stud. So that way if someone knocks the hinge out they can't walk the door out because of the studs in the hinge lock it in place and that's a $3 hack that works in that scenario...

  • @garyK.45ACP
    @garyK.45ACP 3 года назад +12

    Very good solution to secure a door.
    Safety note: 16:38 DO NOT place your thumb on the strike plate where he has it. If the driver bit "cams out" of the screw (slips) you can drive the bit right through your thumb.

    • @paulmaxwell8851
      @paulmaxwell8851 Год назад +5

      Um......I've been there and done that. It hurt. A lot.

    • @mjh5437
      @mjh5437 9 месяцев назад

      Yeah I was pretty shocked to see him doing it like that,and a few other odd things too.

  • @richardbarber4444
    @richardbarber4444 3 года назад +6

    Friend in UK has aesthetically pleasing steel doors wherein the door latch mechanism includes 4 sliding bolts on hinge side as well as opening side. I think you would take out the wall to open the door. These doors are fairly common.

    • @paulparoma
      @paulparoma 3 года назад +1

      I've seen doors like that in Spain, with retracting pins all along the perimeter. Break-ins must be a serious problem there.

  • @SwissArmyDan
    @SwissArmyDan 3 года назад +2

    As a 20 year distributor of doors, some manufactures have 16-guage steel plates behind thier lock prep. BUT, make sure your contractor also uses several 2-1/2" or longer screws on your jamb side hinges, penetrating into your wall studs.
    I have demonstrated that I can lift most doors off thier hinges in about a minute without this added procedure.

  • @scotteric8711
    @scotteric8711 11 месяцев назад +4

    Some tips to build on this: If you look at commercial buildings, especially federal ones- they all have steel frames. Get a good steel "knock down" frame and weld it together in its installation phase. Ideally have it sandwiched between outer wall and and interior stud. Use 3 or 4 stainless ball bearing hinges, good locks and high windows w/safety glass if you must have them atleast 5-6" away from the handles. Building on the metal plate concept, if you make a L shape plate, wrapping the facing side around the outside of the jamb towards the exterior, any inward force only makes the bolt tighter. This door is impenetrable without destroying the wall and compelling another Method Of Entry.

  • @ericbivins8014
    @ericbivins8014 Год назад +2

    My wifes from South Africa. Over there they have lots of trouble with break ins. Most ppl have walls around the property with electrified razor wire on top, burgler bars on all the windows, but I'm not sure about the doors. ADT "Armed Response" multiple guard dogs inside. It's crazy what they must do to stay alive in that hell hole now!

  • @berthaduniverse
    @berthaduniverse 3 года назад +32

    A 36 or 48" Simpson plate strap would be an improvement, if for no other reason than it's galvanized and has plenty of pre drilled holes. BTW, buy a die grinder.

    • @brucesteiner7595
      @brucesteiner7595 3 года назад +2

      And for safety’s sake, let’s add a handle on the tang of that file:-)
      Nice video with enough information that just about anyone can be successful!

    • @edstimator1
      @edstimator1 3 года назад +1

      Better yet, buy a cnc router table and get really pro....or a laser cutter or water jet table.

  • @shitdonewright4339
    @shitdonewright4339 2 года назад +1

    ive done this for 15 yrs love it i use a sst or stt strap for rough framing one that has about 40 nail whole 's nail to framing 3 inch nails 12 Penney used one of the bolt holes for dead bolt whole were dead bol;t hits stick a pencil behind the strap whole so that it sticks up enough to be up so dead bolt can go through like 1/2" inch i had to remove some door jam back sidefot the strap sticking up for the dead boplt and a peanut grinder with cutting wheel on the metal to wide whole up and down not in and out i have to pull in on my door to unlock makes it harder to pick

  • @munsters2
    @munsters2 2 года назад +17

    Unless you are buying at the junkyard, that piece of steel is probably more like $10-$20, but still well worth it for the extra security.

    • @Kennykoo65
      @Kennykoo65 8 месяцев назад +1

      Was going to say the same thing. I laughed when he said $3 to $5.

    • @byranyates6987
      @byranyates6987 8 месяцев назад +1

      Don’t buy steel at Home Depot or Lowe’s . Go to a metal supplier and you will be amazed on how much cheaper it is . Big box stores charge 4 to 5 times the price of a supplier.

    • @1DwtEaUn
      @1DwtEaUn 8 месяцев назад

      @@byranyates6987 ... and ask about looking through the off-cuts

  • @theANGRIERone
    @theANGRIERone 3 года назад +5

    My fiancee's place has this big, heavy wood door to get into her apartment. It started not closing without lifting it up by the door knob. I had some 3" heavy duty screws laying around in my garage that I used on the top hinge where the screws were falling out of the door. I cannot even begin to tell you how bad of an idea these little 1/2" - maybe - wood screws holding up a door of this weight is. Unreal it's lasted as long as it has. Granted if she wasn't leaving there, I'd do all of the hinges, striker, etc.. Great video. Mickey!

    • @talisikid1618
      @talisikid1618 3 года назад +3

      Builders are greedy cheapskates. Most cut every corner they can find.

    • @danm8747
      @danm8747 3 года назад +2

      Great suggestion. I do home and apartment maintenance and I use the small screws but put one 3” screw into the stud on each hinge. On my house I put all 3” or 4” screws in the hinges.

  • @lohikarhu734
    @lohikarhu734 3 года назад +8

    Step drill - Project Farm did a good video comparing step drill bits... these are a tool that should be in everyones tool kit, along with their Knipex Cobra pliers!

  • @disastergarage4261
    @disastergarage4261 3 года назад +1

    mostly all great ideas for enforcement of the door.,,, bottom line an air piston threw the lock creates easy access with minimal noise.. video and tips in a vid i will release,,, but everyone remember this is a high grade minimal time and money instant upgrade he has done... its not new but done well! thx for the vid !!

  • @arthur-ri4zo
    @arthur-ri4zo Год назад +3

    I just finished upgrading the security of my walk in cellar. Over the last 20 years. My neighborhood has changed. It went from a nice suburban town to an urban like crime infested cesspool. The back of my home borders & includes conservation land...being woods.
    I have two small cellar windows, 2 large windows, A steel door with 2 x 6 double framing, and a steel garage door with two added slide locks that go into the runners. . For all four windows, I had steel security grating made with frames at the local Regional Vocational School. I only had to pay for the material. The teacher was using it as a learning moment for the students. The frames were expertly constructed, sanded and ground, and even primed in their auto body shop. For the two large windows I replaced the glass. Each window was 36" x 46". Each consisting of four pieces of glass 9" x 29" I took out the glass and replaced it with 1/4" Lexan. Bulletproof to a point and very expensive. I got the Lexan for free. My father worked with Lexan and Plexiglass. Inside the frame I bolted 3/16 Plexiglass to the inside of the frame. Again unbreakable. I built another frame connected to the two large windows. I attached the security grating to the framing. Moving on: I had HD install a steel garage door. The walk in cellar door was made of steel. The old fashioned steel. Not the cheap flimsy stuff they manufacture now. Here is the piece de' resistance. Two days ago I received my final touch from Amazon. 2 Pack Heavy Duty 2x4 Door Barricade Brackets Steel U Bracket Drop Open Bar Security Holder Door Lock Brackets for Home, Barn, Shed, Garage, Gate to Security Door Reinforcement Fits 2x4 Bar, Black. 95% of the brackets were 3.5 mm thick. I found only one that was thicker steel. It was made by Domuen and was 6 mm thick. My walk in cellar is now like a fortress. Here's a reminder. Anything can be broken in to. I'm sure that a bad guy could get in if he backed up a truck and tried to plow a hole thru my cellar. But think of the noise and racket. The walk in cellar was my main concern being hidden from the street. I'm sleeping much better now. My neighbor across the street has all kinds of security cameras wired on his house. We've become very close friends and he has a camera overlooking my home with the ability to record. If he doesn't see me for two days, he checks on me to make sure I'm ok.
    I just had a steel front door installed by HD. I replaced the hinge and lock screws with longer ones. I'm thinking of adding that 3" wide, 36" long, 1/8th piece of steel to the framing.
    My last project security wise is to replace my other door with a similar steel door from HD. I'll consider installing the 3" x 36" steel if given the chance.

  • @MichaelDelaware
    @MichaelDelaware 3 года назад +5

    In some older homes, you will often encounter outswing doors going into the garage. Another good security tip is to install steel pins along the hing side between the door and the frame. This prevents someone being able breach the door by tapping out the hinge pins and removing the door, bypassing the lock.

    • @spoonman73
      @spoonman73 3 года назад

      What do you mean exactly? Install how? Please elaborate more.

    • @MichaelDelaware
      @MichaelDelaware 3 года назад +5

      @@spoonman73 You use small steel pins, ususally about 1 to 2 inchs long. 3 pins per door. You drill into the door (on the hinge side) and insert the pin, leaving about 1/2 inch sticking out. You then close the door and mark where the pins touch the door frame. Then drill a hole slightly bigger than the pin so they can go in when the door is closed. That way when the lock is still secured, if someone taps out the hinges, the door will not come off the frame. It is useful for outswing doors. The thicker the pin, the stonger it will be, but 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thick works great.

    • @johnmcneal9477
      @johnmcneal9477 Год назад +1

      I responded to an attempted burglary years ago at an older strip mall with around 20 businesses all with outward swinging doors into a dark alley. I tried to explain to the owner of the mall that all of his tenants businesses were at risk and he should think about this. I found an old rusty 16p nail and a rock and was able to tap out the hinges and remove the door. The look on his face was priceless. LOL The good thing was that within a few months he installed drop bars on the interiors of each shop and fixed that problem.

  • @JasonTheMunicipalMechanic
    @JasonTheMunicipalMechanic 3 года назад +6

    Instead of a file you can use a carbide bur in a router and make that bolt hole the size you need. It works pretty well and fast

  • @prjndigo
    @prjndigo 2 года назад +2

    Good local metal shops will be perfectly willing to bend 7/16ths of the long edge of that plate over so you can wrap to the inside of the jam with it, great shops can do compound gussets into it and produce the best result that will admittedly need some working on the jam... but then there's no point in buying a slapwood jam on an entry door. Steel jam for the win.

  • @Dethride69
    @Dethride69 3 года назад +13

    I’ve been a precision metal fabricator for my entire life (family business) and it never dawned on me to do this really killer idea…looks like my gal will getting those new doors after all (although I’m going to use AutoCAD and one of the lasers vs that cordless) 👍🏼

    • @Saint_Sigismund
      @Saint_Sigismund 2 года назад

      I'm going to school for metal fab right now (specialty TIG welding in particular) and I'm looking forward to joining the industry.

    • @wildhorsesrunfaster
      @wildhorsesrunfaster 2 года назад

      @Dethride69 Good Man, Lucky Gal. 👍

  • @Moondoggy1941
    @Moondoggy1941 11 месяцев назад

    So I was going getting this idea that I needed a safer door, I went to a couple of door stores and seeing that they start about 4K for a front door, this video has really helped, I do have a really good door guy, so I will have him reference this video for my ideas that I want done. My old strong but ugly door is just fine, paint covers a lot of fugly.

  • @garybonz
    @garybonz 3 года назад +8

    1st, you're a good teacher. 2nd, I have found it is well worth the extra money to buy Cobalt (the metal alloy not the brand) drill bits.

    • @wallacegrommet9343
      @wallacegrommet9343 3 года назад

      Otherwise you wind up with a pile of dull broken bits

  • @jpol3808
    @jpol3808 11 месяцев назад +2

    Great video. I like that you mentioned all the other things you can incorporate into home security. Just one thing you forgot to mention which is extremely important when fortifying entry points is that you secure ALL openings including all windows and doors and even the doggie doors when fortifying your entries. And don't forget those windows and doors in the garage especially if it's attached. I used 6'x3.5"x3/16" thick steel on my door jams, and every method you could use on the other entries
    but I forgot the sliding door where they got in with just a screw driver. So be thorough and by all means do it. It's well worth the piece of mind knowing no one is getting in while you're gone! And if they do the police and you are on the way! That sliding door is impenetrable now... Even with a brick! Later!.

  • @spudboyQ
    @spudboyQ 3 года назад +3

    Great video. I've been building for over twenty years, and I must admit that I might have learned something. I'm not going to admit what as I have an ego to protect as well. Most enjoyable.

  • @garypollack6948
    @garypollack6948 3 года назад +1

    Great video...an impact driver makes putting in those screws easier.

  • @FreeNDeed777
    @FreeNDeed777 Год назад +3

    I’ve been installing garage doors for a while. At first I didn’t want to spend the 300.00 on a steal punch. It definitely pays for itself! Hope this helps for any contractors out there.

  • @cayankeelord3730
    @cayankeelord3730 11 месяцев назад +2

    What I did to re-enforce my existing door's, was to bore a hole through the jamb and studs and drive a 6 inch long piece of EMT pipe through till it was flush. Before doing that, I formed the end to receive the deadbolt. If your door is all wood, you'll want to install a metal "U" shaped re-enforcement that you can get at most building supply stores.

  • @plunder1956
    @plunder1956 3 года назад +5

    The steel plate is great. We sometimes use plastic shim kits in the UK now. I use a lot of stainless for other applications and might use that. In some European countries exterior doors open outwards, just a different convention, it can surprise you.

    • @Power5
      @Power5 2 года назад +1

      Hinges showing on the outside then? Hope the pins are not easy to remove.

  • @tilerman
    @tilerman 3 года назад +2

    In the UK, im sure you have similar in the US, we have London bar's and Birmingham Bar's to help beef up door security. Both cheap, easy to fix and seriously strengthen door's against break in. Great tutorial, thank you.