Extract Brewing From Start To Finish
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- Опубликовано: 23 апр 2017
- In this 45 minute video, CB&B Cofounder Steve Keonig walks you through a full extract brew day, from steeping specialty grains to extract and hop additions to pitching yeast and racking to secondary fermentation, as well as bottling your beer! If you've never brewed before, or if you'd like to watch how experienced brewers manage a brew day, this video download is packed with great tips and techniques. View our full course library here: learn.beerandbrewing.com/
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The funny thing is that this is the moment many people wish they listened a bit more carefully during the physics and chemistry lessons in school - ALL of this was taught there, they just failed to tell us how useful it will be when brewing our own beer one day :D
i fell asleep and when i woke up this is playing so i figured id at least finish it
Jason Sudeikis crossed w/ Chris Pratt here is really helping me out with my brew. Thanks mate
Nicely done! I don't fully agree with the need to use a second fermenter especially for first time brewers, but like you said, many ways to brew good beer. You stressed the importance of sanitization at the right times during the process. Thanks for the free tutorial.
As everyone else has already said, awesome video for us new guys. Long, but excellent simple explanation for start to finish extract brew. Thank you.
There are a lot of You Tube videos on the topic ... yours is by far the best I have watched yet. Great Job!
Great video! I l learned some things and I have already done two different extract brews. I look forward to more!
Great video! Been brewing wine for years and stepping into beer now. Very informative and worth the whole 45 mins. Thanks!!!
This video is so great, I was looking at spending a fortune on equipment I didn't even need! thanks so much for an informative video
Great vid.You've showed me some excellent points on brewing.
Well done.
been home brewing 1-gallon extract batches for about 4 months now and I'm finally moving to 5-gallon batches. This video, by far, was one of the best I've seen for the entire process. Awesome job!
This is the best beer making video on RUclips, very informative and very well done thanks for sharing 👍
Amazing and very comprehensive video.
Great presentation, very informative
“Egg drop soup-like quality” I love it!!!
When he started filling bottles I gasped.
Tip - Open the dishwasher and fill the bottles on the dishwasher door. Any spillage can easily be cleaned up by closing the dishwasher door.
Paul Gawrych genius
Another trick is to put the wand on the spigot with just a short 2-3" piece of tubing...this way it stays put and you have two hands to manipulate bottles around when filling and setting them up on the counter. Fill by lifting the bottle up onto the wand to engage, and just pull down to stop....with the stationary wand in front of an open dishwasher, and the sanitized bottles on the racks, it is an easy no-mess process.
Or you could just cut out the tube and connect the wand directly to the tap. Then put a bowl on the floor underneath the tap for possible spillage, grab a chair and bottle while sitting down.
Nice tip
John B You may need to buy a new can of extract, rembember how he mentioned it should be as fresh as possible. All the rest of the kit should be good to go.
Very comprehensive work. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for all the tips especially the sanitizing tips
Best video yet! Thanks man
That was very informative and helpfull thank you so much
Same question as below:- I believe you mentioned during the initial set up and grain boil you had 4 gallons of water in the kettle; at what point did you add additional water to bring up to the 5 gallons put into the ferment carboy?
@Ejuice Vaper I don't think that's enough to bring it to 5 gallons especially with the evaporation from the boil for 60 minutes. Most extract brewing requires water to be added at the end when it goes into the carboy.
Bloody good! thanks!
Very well done very informative...I'm ready to go now👍👍
Great video but I would have liked to see the final product. Open one of those beers up and pour it in a glass and taste it. One of the best beginners brewing videos I've ever seen.
Great video! Thanks for all the great info. Also you look so much like Gethin Anthony. It’s uncanny.
Outstanding.
Cheapest delabelling process is 2-4 ounces of baking soda in a bucket. Put your bottles in, fill them with hot water to preheat them and add the soda to the bucket. Boil 3 gallons of water and dump it in. Next morning the labels have fallen off and you can give them a quick clean and store them for future use. Some bottles delabel better than others...I know this is a necropost, but perhaps it helps someone else.
jcinsaniac You can also do this with your ‘used’ PBW. I keep a bucket in the garage and empties soak overnight and then go into the dishwasher before being stored for reuse. Keep the bucket loosely cover, if you can do so safely , because you can get mildew if sealed tightly.
Also if you get really stubborn residue I do a 50:50 olive oil and baking soda. It turns it into a paste and I slab that on any sticky crap left over and scrub with a paper towel. Works like a charm!
I just run mine through the dishwasher and any labels that stay on I don’t worry about, but I don’t add new labels to my bottles.
What is PBW ?
Awesome video wish I would have watched this before my first attempt :)
Awesome information thanks for sharing
im glad you did this video. i've been home brewing for over 6 years now and i just cant get a decent extract beer. I can brew awesome all grains , even recipes ive made myself. i hit numbers , i get flavor ...BUT, when i go to make an extract it always tastes like bandaids. Im told its my water. and i dont understand. I use the same exact tap (city)water and (campden) treatments i use as my all grains....so , what should i do different to make an extract close to palatable? and before you ask, my kits are not old. unless the time frame from the factory packaging it to the time i brew is less than a month...i would hope the whole packaging process would allow brewing extracts to be on the shelf much longer than this. I have a weizen and a kolsch extract kits in the basement now , id like to brew them but i dont want to waste time on another (2x) 5 gallons of drain cleaner.
I really enjoyed this video, you do a great job walking thru the process. One thing I want to do is grow my hops, where would suggest I look for new plants?
Possibly Ebay I've seen seeds on there
I believe you mentioned during the initial set up and grain boil you had 4 gallons of water in the kettle; at what point did you add additional water to bring up to the 5 gallons put into the ferment carboy?
with evaporation and 4 gallons of water in the boil, I assume you'd still need to add water to the carboy to bring up to 5 gallons.
You look like Jason Sudeikis, good video
Great job, very confidence-inspiring. Thanks heaps, or should I say, gallons?
Me again lol. This is a very informative video & helpful video which has tempted me to try. Can I ask though what quantity of grains & malt extract did you use?. I dont think you mentioned it, as I cant seem to find any clone recipes, so I just need a starting point of what quantities I need for a 5 gallon brew. Cheers
so what you do if you want to pop in additional cold hops for IPA or mango for flavour 1 week in during fermentation with this kind of carboy?
A very helpful video as I complete my 3rd batch of hef. My problem is that when the time came to take a reading with my hydrometer, I proceeded to place it in the tube and it sank to the bottom; without floating. What did I do wrong? Is it now a dead batch?
How much grain & what was the grain you used? How much extract, as it looked a lot more than a standard can?
After the primary fermentation you transfer the beer to the secondary fermentation flask and left the yeast cake in the first flask, how does it goes on to secondary fermentation with the dry hop when all the yeast has been separated during the second racking process?
Just wondering, why did the airlock change at 28:06 after you explained we should be using the other airlock model for primary fermentation? I'm confused.
How much grain do we need?
And could we use full grain for this method?
There is a vast difference in the amount of beer in the carboy around the 35 minute mark as there is around the 32 minute mark. Has the carboy been topped up?
Great explanation. Dude I fear the foam! What about like 1 step? Is that an alternative sani solution or is it not strong enough?
For making the priming solution
Do you boil the water THEN add the sugar while it’s boiling?
Or do you it before then boil?
boil the water first otherwise you could scorch the sugar.
Molto molto bello
You don't find dry hopping for that long leaves grassy flavours?
Very good video! People may be confused at the level of liquid when bottling...you didn't show that you racked the beer off the hops after dry hopping into a slightly smaller carboy. So, no, beer doesn't magically multiply from dry hopping, lol. Again, awesome video.
What's the malt extract / water volume ratio ?
When you do the steeping of the grains, why is the temperature only taken up to 160 degrees and not boiling point?
Because boiling grains will extract bad taste from them. If you go above 77C (170 F) degrees you will start extracting tannins from the grain.
Did I miss something, the pre bottling jar looked different to the cold hop stage, did you rack in Between?
Stewart Prince 29:28 - “This beer we made two weeks ago...” They’re using different batches that are at different stages to show the different steps in one day of shooting the video. ; )
I don't use any heat. Just pour the extract in, top it up with water (I use the mist setting on my garden hose to oxygenate), sprinkle the yeast in top an its done. Takes 15mins. Mixing is important, though - I use a paint stirrer.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. The hops you put in at the beginning, did you leave those in when you put the other hops in with 10 mins to go or do you take them out?.
Those stay in. Cheers!
Great video. but no taste testing? I mean you went this far to creating the video, we would like a sneak peek of how the brew tastes and looks.
Thanks for this! When you add the priming sugar, does that change the final alcohol content? I would think the extra sugar would produce more alcohol than your 1.080 to 1.010 calculation.
Also, do you have a video about natural carbonation in a keg?
@@richardingraham6264 I took a lot of chemistry back in the day and remember this:
C6H12O6 (glucose) → 2 C2H5OH (ethanol) + 2 CO2 (carbon dioxide)
So in fermentation, CO2 AND ETOH are always produced.
It will raise it a modest amount.
Commercial brewers are allowed +/- 0.3% error in reporting ABV. That’s the reason it’s called Final Gravity. ;)
If you compare amount of sugar in priming (3-5 oz.) versus the amount in the LME used to get to the Original Gravity (~10 pounds), you can see even 5oz is about 3 percent of the total amount of sugar used.
So if 10 pounds gives 7.48%abv, 10.3 pounds gets you to 7.7%abv (using the calculator for extract FG/OG at www.brewersfriend.com/extract-ogfg/).
The rate of alcohol production when going from no alcohol to 7.5% will be different than going from 7.5% to higher, since the yeast is in a high alcohol environment. To go back to chemistry class, you can review your notes on Le’Chatlier’s principle ;) Here’s a good page on the chemistry: www.yobrew.co.uk/fermentation.php
Yes it will. Just add haif a percent of alcohol to you final wort reading.
Are those grains sprouted, dried and roasted aka malted.
Do I need a 60 minute boil for extract brewing since the extract has already been boiled for this long by the manufacturer? Also could I boil the hops separately in only like half a gallon (2L) water and add it to the fermenter? I am thinking of combining a kit brewing method with steeping the specialty grains, without boiling 4 gallons for 60 minutes. Looking forward to hearing everybody’s thoughts on this.
hi Lalu, the reason for the boil is not for the extract itself, it is to pull all the flavors and bittering agents out of the hops and into the wort. the longer the boil when you add the hops the more flavor and bitterness you will get, the shorter amount of time you will get more aroma from the hops. this is why he put hops in at the beginning of the boil and at 10 mins left of the boil. To answer your other question you never actually boil the specialty grains. they are just at a hot tempture to extract some colour and flavor. You can boil your hops in a different pot, but that just adds one extra step and one extra thing you have to clean in the end.
My all grain brewing kit came with extract and specialty grains to add character to the extract. Look into BIAB Boil In A Bag. To me, it’s as easy as extract, but cheaper since you use all grain, and and only requires a contractor’s paint bag from a big box store (or search for “Brew Bag” on Amazon), and a colander/strainer big enough to let the bag drain into the kettle.
when did you remove the dry hops and top up.
Yeah, he skipped steps
Is there a point, after you bottle, that you have passed the possibility of a bottle bomb (remaining yeast consumed all the priming sugar) and you can just store the bottles on a shelf?
as long as you dont add too much priming ( sugar) as necessary and you bottle at room temperatures, bottle bombs are a rarity. Ive been brewing a few years and got away from sugar priming. i save (boiled,chilled & sealed) wort that has not been fermented. at bottling i add back a calculated amount and cap as usual. in 10 days i have ready to consume perfectly carbonated beer .
Are straight extract brews without specialty grains any good? 😬
Is secondary fermentation necessary or just helpful? Or is it mainly for the dry hop addiction?
once you have all your own equipment. How much do you think it would cost to make 24 bottles of beer?
Do you have to do a secondary fermentation? and What should you do with trub if you're making a cloudy beer like a hefeweizen?
You dont necessary need to do a secondary. Most people do it to clear up beer but Its craft beer. Unfiltered looks cooler. Also like he said if you are going to ferment for a really long time which is unlikely for most beer styles you would want to get it off the trub cake. But I only use primary unless I'm adding fruits then I rack into secondary.
Do it the same way. Wheat beers will always be cloudy because of dissolved proteins in the wort. They will always be there and wont settle out. What you remove in the secondary is dead yeast, and you don't want any more of that in your beer than is necessary.
Hi I was doing home brewing Wheat bear that also without Hops. Can u plz tell how long it will take for first stage brewing, and when I have to shift in fresh bottle
Brewing bears sounds wild lol especially polar. Fermentation is finished when your hydrometer reads the same reading for 2 or more days. E.g 1.010 then know yeast has finished. Cold crash in fridge and siphon to second vessel kek or bottled
In regards to the boil. Do you leave the heat on high the whole time or do you turn it down after the boil is reached
Doug Broad ....Turn it down just enough to keep it boiling.
Wonder what this batch tastes like🤔
This dude looks perpetually lit
why do you need to add a extract when you had boiled the grain before? isnt the extract alone is good enough for the job since it is extracted from grain too?
if you wanted to just use extract that would work too. the specialty grains are use to get more colour and add a unique flavor to your beer.
Cutie Pie, whatever you do, don't BOIL the grains.
Why isn’t called cold hopping instead of dry hopping?
How do you end up with a 5 gallon batch starting with 4 gallons of water? Surely the extract can't be a gallon?
I was thinking the exact same thing. I think he missed a step to add water after racking to reach 5 gallons. Haven't done extract brewing for 3-4 years, so this video helped me recall the process for my altbier today.
35:00 - How did your carboy suddenly get filled more?
shhhhh.....you're not supposed to see that ;)
Haha yeah, different batch. That carboy doesn't have the stupid square windows of the other ones either.
Perfect because I have three arms.
Also how'd you gain a gallon+ of beer after the second hop addiction?
I noticed that too. Hoping he answers. Did he add water and filter hops ?
I have one question. Why didn't you take the sample you used to get your reading and add it back into your fermenter? I know it wasn't much, but any lost amount seems like a waste
You can, but you need to sanitize everything including your hydrometer and hydrometer test tube. Most brewers don't because you take a chance of infecting the batch. The beginning is when the beer is most vulnerable.
I still can't figure out why it is so important to rapidly cool the wort. Would someone please be kind enough to explain this to me? Thank you in advance.
The wort has anything microorganisms like to grow, if you have any contamination and the wort cools down slowly, the microorganisms have time to multiply and destroy your beer before you introduce the yeast.
@@cart5man Thank you.
It's not that rapid cooling kills bacteria. Yeast is a total beast and will dominate a batch of wort when introduced properly. There is a temp window that allows bacteria to multiply, but considering the ph and other conditions it's not as important as one might think....yes, if you already have bacteria...such as not sanitizing your fermenter or introducing some wild yeast spore, then you would potentially set yourself up for an infection. However the Australians hot cube their wort all the time. No, it's to do with chill haze. It's far more important in a commercial brewery and if one is brewing a lager for example. If you made 600 litres of lager that wouldn't clear that would be a real issue. At the homebrew level,its really easy to get a permanent chill haze but kinda difficult to get an infection considering how neurotic everyone is about sanitizing.
I watched this whole video thinking this was Dennis Quaid
lol I was thinking knock off Dane Cook
I really don't understand carboys vs a decent plastic bucket or barrel with a wide mouth for cleaning
A lot of kits come with those. I’ve never had a carboy. The tradeoff with it being easier to clean and easier to add to is that it’s also easier to spill or splash contents from the buckets. :)
@@ScottHz thanks Scott. Incidentally I'm just brewing my first lager and realised today that a carboy is pretty much required for the secondary/lagering process.
I use glass carboys for meads and wine or longer largering alcohols. They are a nuisance for initial beers fermentation. I use a fermzilla all rounder but i am a bit lazy
When he refers to 169 degrees he is using Fahrenheit which is 71 degrees Celsius.
Why are you using grains for a extract brew.....is this extract or not ?
that's how its done in most cases
You can add more character to your beer with speciality grains. There are not that many different kind of extracts available so this is a way to customize the beer profile. This process is steeping and not mashing. Steeping is a way to extract the sugars already existing in the speciality grain and in mashing you are converting the starches in malt to sugars. This is the reason that mashing takes longer time than steeping.
Ok that answer makes more sense thanks.....How do you work out the efficiency of steeping grains ? cheers
John Palmer does a good job explaining this in his book How To Brew. It has a free online version and this page has a table with PPGs (Points/Pound/Gallon) for steeping grains. howtobrew.com/book/section-2/steeping-specialty-grains/mechanics-of-steeping
It is typical, it's for flavoring. This is nothing, all grain brewing is a much more involved undertaking.
I have just done my first home brew (before watching this) and the process I went through was so much simpler. I literally just dissolved some sugar in a pot of hot water and poured it into my fermenter and then added the extract. After this I added cold water to get the right temperature and volume. Then I added yeast and waited for a week or 2. I then bottled it with sugar drops. That was it. Now it was not nice tasting beer at all but I have to say your method looks very exhausting and uses a lot more equipment. I now wonder if I can make reasonable beer with the basic kit that I bought. Or do I have to buy multiple containers, cooling equipment, mesh bags, thermometers, a siphon, etc.
So you didn't use any hops or grains??
Maybe homebrewing isn't for you if you think this video looked exhausting.
Doubt
Wont the additional sugar added during bottling result in any yeast settling in the bottom?
Doesn't the hot wort kill the yeast you added???
At 18:13 he mentions his chiller is attached to a hose and he is chilling the wort. He didn’t really show the cooling of the wort, but he discusses the need to cool the wort off quickly. I just add my wort to a bag of ice dumped into my 5 gal (food grade) bucket to cool the wort and bring the volume back up a little, then add the yeast once it cools to the proper temperature. He doesn’t add yeast until 26:00.
You may have confused the WhirlFloc he added to the hot wort, which does not affect that additive.
I never used a funnel
Level Up use the Fastfermenter !!!
When I see that bag of grain, I see one big dough ball.
I have not read all the comments, but for better sanitation purposes, it is important not to touch the inside of the sanitized crowns when capping the bottles.
I don't think that secondary fermentation is necessary at all. With modern yeast strains the chance of off flavor from yeast contact with your fermented beer is very low. Racking to secondary is actually more dangerous than not because it gives a chance for oxygen and outside bacteria to enter the beer. I also calculated the abv. If you take the formula of (OG - FG)*131.25 and plug in your OG of 1.08 and your FG of 1.01 you get an abv of 9.2%
Boomer?
No, a bomber.
Nice video m8
I wish you didn’t skip when bottling… there’s more water and no Hops that was added the scene before ???
I( thought this was going to be just an extract brew.
Why steeping grain???? I thought this was an extract brew
just use a clean pair of socks for the grains lol
I wish you'd give real units alongside the freedom units. i have no idea how hot 160F is
Google f to celcius calculator, it's not that hard
@@RG-yz8ov Exactly, its not hard to join the rest of the world and gain a more attentive audience in a wider demographic
The camera guys are fucking with him hard in the beginning, but he seems cool, ...so far .... everytime he goes to look into one camera, the shot jumps over to the other cam,
You changed airlocks between two scenes. Haha
Matthew Grubb at 28:00 he’s actually showing a different batch that has already started fementing, that’s why you can see the krauzen on the second carboy. You can see the other batches in the background during the sanitizing of the carboy
propane inside? jeeeze
Hey Danny, appreciate the concern for Steves health! This was actually a studio in a garage - and to anyone out there, yes, us propane outside.
Eric Vallieres I was taken aback at that initially, but then though about my gas stove and fireplace. The bigger problem is the incredible amount of humidity when you’re boiling that large a volume of water in a small kitchen - the exhaust fan can have a really hard time keeiping up!
You didn't show sanitizing the funnel...
celebmrk9 Right, he didn’t specifically mention sanitizing the funnel, but it was probably in the bucket of sanitizer, along with EVERYTHING you use after the boil, just like the autosiphon was sitting in the sanitizer.
I wouldn't recommend making beer in a kitchen area, should you have a big spill you will have a sticky situation. Imagine how mad the wife will get.
the eyes all over the place to all the cameras is annoying. lost me at 1:45. extract brewing is cool though. cheers.
Really liked your presentation except one thing. I can NEVER subscribe to someone who talks to people up in the studio rafters!!!
You don't need a 2nd fermenter... unless you are this guy who is selling you one.
Extract brewing is absolutely inferior to using all grain. It always has that "extract taste" no matter the style.
I could go on. This guy is a lot more interested in selling you stuff than teaching you.... and using a stainless steel wort chiller?? Yeah no... copper is literally 20 times more conductive than steel.
I could go on. At least half the equipment/additives he is selling is unnecessary. If you were that concerned with the highest quality - you wouldn't be extract brewing in the first place.
BIAB full boil is just as easy as extract, just as quick and easier in clean up.
So malt extract are optional?? And how much grains will I have to use if I don't use any extract . Can you please tell me more!!
@@sakshamkundra9368 Extract and All grain are two different things. Google "BIAB All grain" "Brew In A Bag". It is a much easier/simpler way to brew the real thing - using all grains - NO - extract.