One item you might try instead of 220 sand paper is the scotch brite pads. The work amazingly on finishes for that scuff sand to remove nibs and dust and it won't cut thru on the corners (unless you really dig in), plus it won't load like sandpaper does. All that is needed is to blow it out with your air hose.
Great tips to yield professional results. I always save scrap cardboard to test paint on prior to applying it to the product as well. Keep up the great work and let's continue to inspire others.
Very nice how the face frame turned out. Once again I say you are a master of the painters tape and masking. Will you be using another color for the doors and drawers to make the black pop ?
Thank you very much sir! Nope this cabinet is all black. The upper cabinet will have glass doors and the client wanted the inside of that also painted black. I'll have a separate video of the build process for the corner cabinets out in a couple weeks!
You're very welcome! I just leave it with the finish in it and lid on between coats. I check the needle/nozzle before subsequent coats and peel off any finish that may have dried. You could also wipe the needle/nozzle with water or solvent depending on what type of finish you're using, but I never think about doing that lol!
I'm using the Apollo 4VS and I do thin the milk paint a bit (how much I can't say I just judge it by eye lol). I'm using the "C" high solids air cap with a 1.8mm nozzle and needle. Cheers and thanks for watching!
Yes, mainly latex enamel is much softer and less durable. GF makes a tintable brushing enamel, but I don't have much experience with it yet so for now the milk paint and high performance top coat is my go to method.
Hey Carey, The cabinet was made from prefinished ply. Thought I said that in the voice over, but I might have forgotten 🤣 Hope the video was helpful! Mike
One item you might try instead of 220 sand paper is the scotch brite pads. The work amazingly on finishes for that scuff sand to remove nibs and dust and it won't cut thru on the corners (unless you really dig in), plus it won't load like sandpaper does. All that is needed is to blow it out with your air hose.
Solid suggestion! I've used those in the past and had good results. But usually just grab for sandpaper😃
Great tips to yield professional results. I always save scrap cardboard to test paint on prior to applying it to the product as well. Keep up the great work and let's continue to inspire others.
Thanks for the feedback! I learned to hold onto scrap cardboard for dialing in the gun from my college shop professor 👍👍 cheers!
Looks like it’s done the job mate 🍻👍
Yep it came out really well! Thanks 👍😃
Very nice how the face frame turned out. Once again I say you are a master of the painters tape and masking.
Will you be using another color for the doors and drawers to make the black pop ?
Thank you very much sir! Nope this cabinet is all black. The upper cabinet will have glass doors and the client wanted the inside of that also painted black.
I'll have a separate video of the build process for the corner cabinets out in a couple weeks!
I will be waiting for that video on the corner cabinet too.
Thank you, and God bless
Glad to hear it!
God bless you and yours sir.
Wow
Thanks!
Thank you for the tips! Do you do anything with your paint gun (clean, cover, etc) in between coats to prevent dry paint chips in the spray tips?
You're very welcome! I just leave it with the finish in it and lid on between coats. I check the needle/nozzle before subsequent coats and peel off any finish that may have dried. You could also wipe the needle/nozzle with water or solvent depending on what type of finish you're using, but I never think about doing that lol!
Do you thin the paint? What size air cap do you find works the best?
I'm using the Apollo 4VS and I do thin the milk paint a bit (how much I can't say I just judge it by eye lol). I'm using the "C" high solids air cap with a 1.8mm nozzle and needle.
Cheers and thanks for watching!
Is there a reason you go with GF milk paint over an latex enamel paint with a sheen? Thanks
Yes, mainly latex enamel is much softer and less durable. GF makes a tintable brushing enamel, but I don't have much experience with it yet so for now the milk paint and high performance top coat is my go to method.
Maybe I missed it, but did you apply any finish to the inside of the cabinets? Or just sanded to 220 and left it as is?
Hey Carey,
The cabinet was made from prefinished ply. Thought I said that in the voice over, but I might have forgotten 🤣
Hope the video was helpful!
Mike
@@WoodshopMike You could have, I probably missed it. That makes the process far faster for sure. Thanks!
Yeah for sure. I like the pre finished stuff, but I'm always a little paranoid that I'm gonna scratch it up before I'm done🤣
Had to leave when he said paper towels worked in place of tax cloth .
I certainly wouldn't recommend tax cloth😉