Thanks for the video, I'm a little late to the party with this but only because I just picked up a 4WS capra and would like to have an extra mini. Some of the other builds and video didn't show how they dealt with the electronics and one just stuffed the battery in the interior and though that was fine I guess? lol. Anywho, thanks for putting in that extra effort and attention to detail. Ribbit!
I just picked up a pre-owned chassis missing the interior. The red does look pinkish, those are now gone. Your video build has the best tucked electronics out there with stock esc. Thanks, you da man!!
RIBBIT!! Nice build Bruh 💯... I call mine Kermit and plan on getting the clear one to paint Hot Pink and doing a stretch Gladiator build and calling her Miss Piggy for friends to drive on the outdoor course comps...Keep on Building 🤙
The roof hatch idea was perfect i was fighting with ecu fitting and looking good i took the velco piece from kit and attached it to roof still have to unplug stuff but its alot easier and cleaner
Just watched your Injora build video and it was great. I saw the cape crawler Injora build. I'm definitely going to get one and build it. Cape crawler also used the green body. I'm more parcel to the blue.
Great and helpful video, I love the channel and the videos you put out for the rc community. I have a deadbolt and have done almost all the mods on it myself at home in my shop. It has a 50T motor, I took off the back shocks and made my own limiting straps for the back. The front has about half droop and I kicked back and trimmed the shocks . The thing is a little Beast. Trying to keep my bronco as stock at possible, for now anyway.
Do deadbolt rear-end in the back and the rear links and driveshaft of a c10/jlu in the front. Leaves plenty of space for a full ecu under the hood area, so there no need to de-case, as well as a lower stance with better performance.
Only 8 minutes in but I'm loving it so far. I'm thinking of doing a 100% build from aftermarket with one of these. I'm pretty much done with my Bronco and want to do a performance build. What Furitek system do you think would fit best in this chassis?
Mine was the same way, stock bolts too short for the links. Ended up not being able to finish it that night. It's a. Nice build when it's done. Stock servo is too short to wire it to an esc anywhere close. Also my front links are hitting the motor had to move it up higher
Yeah, it’s a very tight chassis. Be sure to let Injora know about the stock bolts being too short. I told them and they seemed to either not believe me, or it wasn’t a priority.
I'm hoping that my Cayman build will attach to this. Mine arrives today. It will get a Furitek Stinger (micro komoto and lizard pro) and RadioLink 4 channel receiver otherwise. The smallest system I know of and the best system I have used.
I don’t think it will bolt straight up. The Caymen is a hybrid of the scx and fcx. Your skid plate will likely not fit. (Let me know how your conversion goes)
@@TheShopMiniRC I went with a new Stinger power system. I use the battery tray with the label stripped off the battery and a Furitek sticker on it. I used an Injora transmission that is too slow at high speed though.
Ribbit/frogger Nice build but when my orange kit gets here the interior will not be used. I just need to figure out where to put a stock bat at. Gunna try my komoto in it. I got the big one not the mini. Wish me luck.
Great idea with tucking the battery down, i just got the Injora buggy, a little late to the party but i can not find that battery in canada could you tell me the size of the one you used in mm to see if i can find one around that size. thanks
the little tattu batteries are 46*16*14mm It looks like they changed the listing though and now have a different connector. You might need to just change the ends to what you're using. There are also other very small batteries but these have a good longer form factor: amzn.to/3GTNnAS
Just got my first crawler the Devastator. Its great for the cost, and I cant stop running the course on my floor. Is this your suggestions for a second mini crawler? This build looks fun for sure. The Bead lock rims listed are gone, any other suggestions?
I think it’s a pretty good 2nd rig. There are a ton of options, but the fact that this can just be slapped on a stock truck with no real issues (except that pesky 12mm screw you need), it’s great!
This is such a great video! I have learned so much from you with this one video. I see in a comment below that you recommend the Furitek micro Komodo. I already have a Furitek Lizard pro ultimate and a fairly small receiver for my GT5 transmitter. Based on your comments about the size of the buggy chassis, these seem like the perfect additions. Would you agree?
Ribbit Ribbit!!! This is an AWESOME video!!! I REALLY want one of these... I've never built or customized one of these lil guys yet so was a little intimidated and kept talking myself out of it... but this video removed all of that!!! Thank you so much for making this video!!! I will be ordering one through your links for sure!!!! I have a cpl questions. How is the quality of the Hot Racing mortor? Do they last? There's no link for the motor with the rest of the parts. There's also no link for the link riser 2nd question instead of a spar tire or scale parts, is there enough room in the back for a servo to make it rear steer? Keep up the awesome content!!!
Huge thanks. I am so glad to hear what you’ve said. This is exactly why I started the channel. I want people to feel more comfortable to dive deeper into the hobby.
The hot racing motor is ok, but i would look at the Injora purple motor or even the mofo rc brushed motor options. I will add a link to the desc Here is the aluminum : amzn.to/3QT9rAv And the brass : amzn.to/3QSQA8B
Yeah, just links and driveshafts. Get c10/jlu/bronco length links and shaft. You could try deadbolt links up front but it may be too short. The rear will be fine.
The battery actually slides in and out pretty easily. That’s why we focused on making the interior easy to remove. You can also leave your power lead long on your battery or have an extension that you can charge the battery while in the car (not really recommended though)
It’s an entirely new chassis. Not just a body. You can definitely make it work but it’s going to take a few extra parts. You need a normal SCX24 skid/belly plate and the likely new links and maybe new shocks. Everything else will swap right over.
if you mean everything else (besides the body/chassis) then no. But you can buy each part you need separately on the aftermarket. literally every single part of the scx24 platform is available aftermarket.
Me again.. can you tell me which parts i would actually need to purchase seperate from the scx24 plz. I know im a pain in the ass ..sorry. just need a little help thanks
@@TheShopMiniRC yes gates and my course was built around a stock c-10. I've left room for wider and taller vehicles when i was building it... but i just wanted to measure around and see where a rig built like this will and won't fit on my course. Lol
You’d have to reach out to them directly. Unfortunately the company is no longer in business, but the original designer might still be interested in selling some. Also, in our most recent RB1 video we are giving away a red chassis.
Your links are too short, I suggest using the longest links, in addition to increasing the wheelbase, because the shock absorber changes the angle, the off-road ability will be better.
Far from it. The chassis was actually designed for the length links I used. Of course we can stretch it (especially with such big tires) but the links are 100% not too short.
Thanks for the video, I'm a little late to the party with this but only because I just picked up a 4WS capra and would like to have an extra mini. Some of the other builds and video didn't show how they dealt with the electronics and one just stuffed the battery in the interior and though that was fine I guess? lol. Anywho, thanks for putting in that extra effort and attention to detail. Ribbit!
Huge thanks! I try to show as much as I can… sometimes it ends up too long! Lol
I appreciate all the little details you say on video, it really helps noobs like me.
It keeps guys like me in the hobby, cheers! I'm subscribed
Glad to help. Huge thanks for the sub!!!!
I just picked up a pre-owned chassis missing the interior. The red does look pinkish, those are now gone. Your video build has the best tucked electronics out there with stock esc. Thanks, you da man!!
Thanks a ton my dude!!!!
RIBBIT!! Nice build Bruh 💯... I call mine Kermit and plan on getting the clear one to paint Hot Pink and doing a stretch Gladiator build and calling her Miss Piggy for friends to drive on the outdoor course comps...Keep on Building 🤙
Waka waka!!!
“RIBBIT” Just built mine! My first 1/24! Waiting on my receiver and battery … last two things. 🤘
Nice! I am sure you are going to love it!!
@@TheShopMiniRC … battery arrived today … down to just the receiver. 😁
“Frogger”, another great video! Thanks for all the tips!
Our pleasure! Thanks a ton for watching the whole video!
Ribbit. Just did a build similar to this as a total beginner. Your video was so helpful! Thank you so much.
You're very welcome! Glad it helped!! Be sure to share it with others who might also find it helpful!
The roof hatch idea was perfect i was fighting with ecu fitting and looking good i took the velco piece from kit and attached it to roof still have to unplug stuff but its alot easier and cleaner
Nice!!
Just watched your Injora build video and it was great.
I saw the cape crawler Injora build.
I'm definitely going to get one and build it.
Cape crawler also used the green body.
I'm more parcel to the blue.
Blue also looks good! It’s a fun build for sure. I hope you enjoy it!!!
Amazing video. Saved it for future references. Thank you very much
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video man. I should have watched this before I built mine. Just finished a nice little build. FROGGER! Its jumpy brushed. lOl
Nice! I’m sure you’ll still love it. Lol.
Great and helpful video, I love the channel and the videos you put out for the rc community. I have a deadbolt and have done almost all the mods on it myself at home in my shop. It has a 50T motor, I took off the back shocks and made my own limiting straps for the back. The front has about half droop and I kicked back and trimmed the shocks
. The thing is a little Beast. Trying to keep my bronco as stock at possible, for now anyway.
Nice!!! I appreciate your viewership and love to hear people working on their RCs!!!
Kinda want to build my ax24 around this. Time to start the shopping list lol
That could be fun!
I just got mine and I am really excited
❤️
Great video👍. Finally finished mine. Orange one, Kenny, southpark, 🤣
Hahah being that I am a Kenny, I love it!!!
Do deadbolt rear-end in the back and the rear links and driveshaft of a c10/jlu in the front. Leaves plenty of space for a full ecu under the hood area, so there no need to de-case, as well as a lower stance with better performance.
I still like to decase and the link length doesn't matter for getting a lower stance. You can get a low stance with any length links
Wish I could send you a picture of mine...
Great video as always. I'll be building mine soon.
Thanks a ton. I hope our build helps yours!
Only 8 minutes in but I'm loving it so far. I'm thinking of doing a 100% build from aftermarket with one of these. I'm pretty much done with my Bronco and want to do a performance build. What Furitek system do you think would fit best in this chassis?
The micro komodo for sure. It’s the smallest brushless they have for scx24
Ribbit! Awesome build! Frogger!
Huge thanks. Maybe we call it Fribbit!
Mine was the same way, stock bolts too short for the links. Ended up not being able to finish it that night. It's a. Nice build when it's done. Stock servo is too short to wire it to an esc anywhere close. Also my front links are hitting the motor had to move it up higher
Yeah, it’s a very tight chassis. Be sure to let Injora know about the stock bolts being too short. I told them and they seemed to either not believe me, or it wasn’t a priority.
I'm hoping that my Cayman build will attach to this. Mine arrives today. It will get a Furitek Stinger (micro komoto and lizard pro) and RadioLink 4 channel receiver otherwise. The smallest system I know of and the best system I have used.
I don’t think it will bolt straight up. The Caymen is a hybrid of the scx and fcx. Your skid plate will likely not fit. (Let me know how your conversion goes)
@@TheShopMiniRC I went with a new Stinger power system. I use the battery tray with the label stripped off the battery and a Furitek sticker on it. I used an Injora transmission that is too slow at high speed though.
Thanks buddy
Thanks a ton For watching
awesome vid dude so well explained cheers
Glad you liked it! Thanks!’
Nice build and details in video. Go frogged!
Thanks a ton. I hope i earned your sub!!
Ribbit/frogger
Nice build but when my orange kit gets here the interior will not be used. I just need to figure out where to put a stock bat at. Gunna try my komoto in it. I got the big one not the mini. Wish me luck.
Good luck with a full size komodo, yours gonna need it! Lol. ;)
Frogger 🐸Is an awesome name‼I don't have this one yet, ribbit
Thanks for watching good sir!!!
Great idea with tucking the battery down, i just got the Injora buggy, a little late to the party but i can not find that battery in canada could you tell me the size of the one you used in mm to see if i can find one around that size. thanks
the little tattu batteries are 46*16*14mm It looks like they changed the listing though and now have a different connector. You might need to just change the ends to what you're using. There are also other very small batteries but these have a good longer form factor: amzn.to/3GTNnAS
Just got my first crawler the Devastator. Its great for the cost, and I cant stop running the course on my floor. Is this your suggestions for a second mini crawler? This build looks fun for sure. The Bead lock rims listed are gone, any other suggestions?
I think it’s a pretty good 2nd rig. There are a ton of options, but the fact that this can just be slapped on a stock truck with no real issues (except that pesky 12mm screw you need), it’s great!
As for beadlocks, again, tons of options. I would look at Mazz Designs or Hard Park Crawlers for some of the sickest high quality wheels.
ribbit! i just got the +4 axles to go in my new build
You’re gonna love em. Thanks for watching
How about ribbit AND frogger hah. Very long video with lots of tips and tricks. Thank you for the help
Maybe Fribbit!?!? Lol
This is such a great video! I have learned so much from you with this one video. I see in a comment below that you recommend the Furitek micro Komodo. I already have a Furitek Lizard pro ultimate and a fairly small receiver for my GT5 transmitter. Based on your comments about the size of the buggy chassis, these seem like the perfect additions. Would you agree?
Yep, I will fit perfect. Also, thanks a ton for watching. I am glad it helped you! I hope i earned your sub!
Will the injora chassis with the aluminium body panels work with this also plz ?
Yes.
@@TheShopMiniRC thanks for all your replies. Will keep informed when i get everything.
Ribbit Ribbit!!!
This is an AWESOME video!!!
I REALLY want one of these... I've never built or customized one of these lil guys yet so was a little intimidated and kept talking myself out of it... but this video removed all of that!!!
Thank you so much for making this video!!!
I will be ordering one through your links for sure!!!!
I have a cpl questions. How is the quality of the Hot Racing mortor? Do they last? There's no link for the motor with the rest of the parts.
There's also no link for the link riser
2nd question instead of a spar tire or scale parts, is there enough room in the back for a servo to make it rear steer?
Keep up the awesome content!!!
Huge thanks. I am so glad to hear what you’ve said. This is exactly why I started the channel. I want people to feel more comfortable to dive deeper into the hobby.
The hot racing motor is ok, but i would look at the Injora purple motor or even the mofo rc brushed motor options.
I will add a link to the desc
Here is the aluminum : amzn.to/3QT9rAv
And the brass : amzn.to/3QSQA8B
You can 100% make it rear steer. Check out this video. ruclips.net/video/10YeeDYoe3c/видео.html
I like your frogger
Ty ty ;)
ribbet. love your videos . keep it up
Hah thanks!
Frogger. Just subscribed!
Huge thanks! I appreciate your viewership!
My deadbolt has c-10 rear front links..will it work with this buggy?
Yeah the front kid the buggy might hit your servo under full compression depending on how low your truck rides. But yes, it should work no problem.
I have a deadbolt i want to do something with. Guessing id have to get different links and dri e shafts? Or do you know a differnt kit ?
Yeah, just links and driveshafts. Get c10/jlu/bronco length links and shaft.
You could try deadbolt links up front but it may be too short. The rear will be fine.
@@TheShopMiniRC thank you so much. I'm gonna do it after christmas
Where is the red and the blue buggy chassis from? I've been wanting to get one of them, looks a lot like my Ryfts.
They were made by Chris Tandy, They were also sold under the name Crawler Works. The RB_1
ruclips.net/video/tX_9lV3qGyU/видео.html
What ads you doing for charging here? Seems like a pain to get the battery in and out.
The battery actually slides in and out pretty easily. That’s why we focused on making the interior easy to remove. You can also leave your power lead long on your battery or have an extension that you can charge the battery while in the car (not really recommended though)
What esc are you using
Stock version one axial combo.
Do you know if this body would go on the ax24?
It’s an entirely new chassis. Not just a body. You can definitely make it work but it’s going to take a few extra parts. You need a normal SCX24 skid/belly plate and the likely new links and maybe new shocks. Everything else will swap right over.
@@TheShopMiniRC thanks man, much appreciated!!!
Would i be able to buy the donor bit seperate instead of buying the full kit. . Any info appreciated. Just want to build this . Thanks in advance
if you mean everything else (besides the body/chassis) then no. But you can buy each part you need separately on the aftermarket. literally every single part of the scx24 platform is available aftermarket.
Nice one thanks for that
Me again.. can you tell me which parts i would actually need to purchase seperate from the scx24 plz. I know im a pain in the ass ..sorry. just need a little help thanks
I mean the bits actually used from the donor. No need to buy the full scx24 if only a few parts needed
@@HARKAICHRIS you use literally everything but the body and chassis.
Ken buddy I’m going to send you a pic of mines on the FB page
I saw it! Great build! Can’t wait to see what you do with the LEDs!
I have another question...lol
What's the total width of is this rig with the wider axcels ...and big tires?
right at 118mm. (4.65 inches) I assume you are curious for gates?
@@TheShopMiniRC yes gates and my course was built around a stock c-10.
I've left room for wider and taller vehicles when i was building it... but i just wanted to measure around and see where a rig built like this will and won't fit on my course. Lol
What is the name of radio control+esc
This is the stock axial scx24 version 1 remote and esc/rx combo.
Where does somebody find the RB one chassis
You’d have to reach out to them directly. Unfortunately the company is no longer in business, but the original designer might still be interested in selling some. Also, in our most recent RB1 video we are giving away a red chassis.
Which video?
ruclips.net/video/OMgilK9vOUE/видео.html
Ribbit!!! 😁👌🙏
The best!!! Thanks a ton for watching!
Great video and info. Thanks!!! (FROGGER)
Thanks a ton for the watch!!
Frogger !
Thanks a ton for watchin!!
My build is very similar to yours
Nice! It’s such a blast!
Your links are too short, I suggest using the longest links, in addition to increasing the wheelbase, because the shock absorber changes the angle, the off-road ability will be better.
Far from it. The chassis was actually designed for the length links I used. Of course we can stretch it (especially with such big tires) but the links are 100% not too short.
Why do u need to change the front links if using a deadbolt? Sorry. Noob here.
The deadbolt fronts are far too short and your tires will rub when turning.
Frogger
Ribbit!
Ribbit
;) he’s hoppy!
Frogger
Huge thanks for watching!!!!!
Frogger
Thanks for watching it all!!!