Text summary so I don't need to watch the video a 3rd or 4th time! Summary @32:13 Vince can be mean to his brushes Use synthetic brushes and/or keep the inks out of the ferrule Vince's ink recommendation: 1st get: Vallejo Game Ink next get: FW and Scale75 Inktensity P3 is a valid replacement for Inktensity Citadel: @5:36 Best for dark into recesses, weak, do not change color, avoid flat spaces P3: @7:57 Incredibly potent and powerful, bright hues, great working over zenithal, speed painting, airbrushing doesn't cause speckles / frosted look Warcolour: @10:28 Largest variety of colors, strong but weaker than P3, main colors strong, dries somewhat glossy, best as a thinner for gel based paints (warcolour, scale75) Army Painter: @13:48 Lot like GW shades, basically the same Strong / Medium tones are weaker to GW shade equivalents but other colors are stronger than GW shade equivalents Vallejo Game Ink: @15:40 Best starter ink set, low priced, flows incredibly well, incredible intensity, dries matt, Scale75 Inktensity @18:09 Good Inktense wood, black, chestnut, red, yellow Glossy, Rich, very intense and dark when not thinned Good to intensify a color Will withstand thinning more than other inks can thin with water GreenStuffWorld: @21:26 Similar to Army Painter / GW Really weak in comparison to others best for tints vs ink/heavy wash, add light touches of shadow color Badger Paints: @23:51 Ghost Tint: Best as a tint over an airbrush over another color Incredibly glossy from a brush Ghost Tints don't go on well w/ a brush - spotty
Metalsmith: Very glossy Best for working over TMM, especially Vallejo Metal Color Works great with a brush or airbrush Daler-Rowney FW: @28:00 Vince's most commonly used inks Best $ value, Unbelievably strong, airbrush or brushing works great Vince's colors of choice: Payne's Grey, White, Sepia, Turquiose, Purple, Burnt Umbra thins incredibly well, water, medium, flow improver etc dries somewhere between matt & satin, but mixes with matt medium well
Everytime I have a mini related question I type it in youtube and add vince venturella at the end and you usually have the answer. Cant believe people use to paint without a RUclips sensei
I'm subscribed to all of the major, and many minor minipainting channels out there. They are all very talented, undeniably. Although, among all of them the only minipainter that makes me have an uncontrollable urge to paint is Vince Venturella. Thank your for being a true inspiration, and guide for all of us minipainters everywhere.
Vince your channel is a POT OF GOLD. When I was a teenager and first got into mini painting available resources were white dwarf, codexes or painting books and since I've gotten back into painting in the last year I can't believe how much knowledge is available on your channel compared to what used to be available. EVERY SINGLE TIME I walk away having learned something I had never even thought of that I'm sure has improved the outcomes of the rest of my painting sessions. THANK YOU
This is my 3rd watching... I get ‘something ‘out of each & every view. There is so much reference in each post you do; it takes me a few times to fully digest all the knowledge that you put out ! Thanks so much. I’ve been painting for some time, but only in the past few years have I really been going for more than ‘table top quality ‘. I had mainly been historical wargaming in 15mm or similar so that was good enough. Now I’ve been working on larger models (28mm) and I’ve been concentrating on going slower & trying to add more techniques in each squad(ie- glazing/washes/dry brush/edge hi lighting). Thanks so much for all posts & the clear & concise way you explain. Enjoy your weekend
Great product round up, so useful since these all have such different characteristics. One more thing you can use for a wash if you're adventurous is oils. Look for colours that have a high transparency and tinting strength (most manufacturers tell you this). Thin with odourless mineral spirits and voila a very intense wash/ink/shade which flows really well. You can also take a bit of oms on a brush and selectively remove your tint in certain areas. Pthalo blue (and other pthalo colours) work well for this, i recently did a jet pack flame with it and was quite pleased with the result. Anyway thanks once again Vince, at this point this hobby cheating series is one of the best internet resources for mini painters!
Yep, a while back I did a video on oil washes. I use them all the time, I really do love oil washes as well, they are wonderful for flowing into recesses and they can clean up so easily and smoothly.
Hi and Moin! That was great. Thank you so much. I've learned so much in this Video and your Chanel. Incredible informative. And now i need more Scale Colors ;). Greetings Ruberius
Also I must point out that the Daler Rowney FW Artists Inks have a large range of colours, around 5 or more for just yellow, pretty cool if you're say going to paint / highlight those Imperial Fists. I drew up a preliminary compatibility chart with FW inks and Citadel wash ones as the FW inks are a bit cheaper, also doing the same for GW washes and washes made from W&N Artist oil paints as this is certainly a lot cheaper.
I have so many of these already... in cupboards, in drawers and under the bed. Some I do have that are similar but likely different altogether are the Vallejo model color transparent colours and Tamiya Acrylic transparent colours. The latter after seeing their use after a miniature or model had been varnished and lost a bit of colour satuation or needed a bit of a hue tint slightly towards a different colour.
This was really excellent and a big help, my first time dipping my toe in non citadel inks and washes and had no idea what army painter tones might do. I kind want to see you do something with that emerald life swarm now
I'll probably just try to paint it from there and it will be this strange blue scintillating pattern. :) - Glad to help your journey outside of the GW range.
Great tips and explanations, Vince! I've got plenty of shades, but I've been looking to expand into more traditional inks! After your excellent demonstrations, I think I'll start with some Vallejo! ^_^ ~ Wolfbrother Methos
Lol I don't think me or any of my projects have any resources but I am really happy to hear your Vallejo review. I haven't been happy with the 'deadness' that a lot of acrylics seem to have and thought I would try some model friendly inks. They sound like they're going to do everything I need. Great general ink review too! (I did sub, I find if another miniaturist, no matter how different your miniatures of choice are, does something that crosses over into my area of interest, they're worth following as you never stop learning!
Very interesting video Vince. You really are a fantastic mine of information. I had no idea how easy it is to destroy a brush with ink😳 Thanks again. Keith
It looks like Sam Lenz's approach of buying cheap brushes in bulk for use with washes, flow improvers, metallics, drybrushes, etc. is very reasonable indeed. All of those are detrimental, so if you use these techniques a lot, there is no point in buying expensive brushes.
Another fantastic overview. This and the paint review have taught me a lot as a newer painter, and I feel amazed I know enough to understand some of the differences. Have you ever thought about doing a big comparison of contrast/SpeedPaint/etc? I feel like there's enough types that you could get a good conversation out of them, and would love your thoughts on Warcolours Antithesis range. The army painter stuff looked great until I realized Warcolours has had that set for more than a year and more colors to boot, but finding information on them is hard. Either way, thanks for taking the time to talk through all this.
Thanks Vince. Invaluable information. I bought the Inktense set a long time ago and short of using a little bit of green, I am at a loss as to how to use them. I will definitely incorporate them a little more in my painting. One request, is there a plan to do a Hobby Cheating on using white ink? I have some Daler Rowney white ink and would like to using it, especially to try and start incorporating more fluros but I have no idea where to start.
I didn't have any video specifically planned, but I am sure it will come up all the time in the course of other projects. My general way I use it is what you have likely seen in other videos. I use it mixed with paint for edge highlighting, final white highlights or light points, or just painting the final smooth white highlights in combination with the HBA. I use the Inktense Wood as my first level over drybrushed zenithal on trees and stuff. The black and chesnut are thin tints for TMM. Hope that all helps.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, big help. I suspected that may be the case because it would be strong for brightening colours to use as edge highlights. I will use that as my first practice. Interested to try tinting TMM as well, that sounds like it could create some really interesting finishes. Keep up the great work, I love your tips and knowledge.
If you have an airbrush .. IMHO some of the best zenithal highlighting is thinned DR white over Molotow flat black (that may not be obvious because the Molotow is sold as refills for their pens).. but the black and grey-blue dark are great bases for zenithal, and DR or Liquitex white is the ideal highlight.
@4:13 "I'm blue da ba dee da ba die" ... love it! Eiffel 65 FTW... @32:47 Excellent public service announcement on Inks and brush "safety". @VinceVenturella thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the properties and behaviors of the various brands of inks, sharing your thoughts and experiences, and educating the masses on inks and their uses. I have one question; couldn't any of these brands be made to behave similarly to the GreenStuff Wash/Ink by adding a high ratio of flow improver to ink?
Vince haaalp. I’ve been trying to use the Dahler Rowney and Liquitex inks but it seems like as soon as I put anything over top of them they just peel right off. I just tried a standard zenithal with titanium white and was super impressed how nicely it came out. So I thought, this time I’ll put some varnish over it. Just a big floppy mess 😂. Anyways, hopefully it’s just something simple you might be able to nail down for me. Thank you! **sloppy
Well, all inks can be reactivated, but let's look at the following. 1) How are you applying the inks? If you are using a brush, you may need to give them longer to dry. 2) How did you apply the varnish, you want to apply that with an airbrush. 3) Sometimes the humidity in your area can effect this. I don't have any issue, but my painting area is super dry, so things tend to pull all liquid out. 4) Try missing just a few drops of satin or matte varnish with your inks when you apply them. This will add a little more resistance to the base ink. Hope that all helps.
Would you be willing to do the same type of video with metallic paints? I know you're a massive fan of Vallejo Metallic Color and don't really like the rest, but it's hard to see why without seeing them side by side. I'm really curious about this. Awesome videos as always.
Yes, the metal paints one is certainly something I have planned. it will happen (I just have to get all my metal paints back, since I got rid of most after the Vallejo Metal Color. But it will happen. :)
As always- great post. Thanks. Super helpful and useful. I always recommend your channel and expertise to those I speak with on the ‘tube’. Also, your painting work is wonderful! I learn so much from you/your tips. (Gushing session over...sorry Hahahaha) But seriously- thanks
These are the best kind of video's you make Vince! Nobody else does these overview vids as impartially and as thoroughly as you! Many thanks! I own all the Vallejo inks and inktense wood and chestnut from scale 75 and have been using them the past couple of years. Daler Rowney and Liquitex cost about the same (around 6 euro per pot). I want to try white ink (to use instead of white paint trough the airbrush). What else would you recommend I try based on the collection I already have?
Definitely White Ink, that's a must buy. Payne's Grey would be next, it's just infiinitely useful. My next puchase would by Burnt Umber or Sepia, basically, a nice brown with lots of varied uses.
Amazing video. I’m really interested in the panel lining with the FW inks you mentioned. Do they just need a bit of thinning and some flow improver? What flow improver do you prefer?
@@VinceVenturella I was playing around with this and used a ton of liquitex flow aid (like 15 drops to one drop of FW sepia) and a little bit of glaze medium and achieved something that was more similar to a GW shade, but without the coffee staining and a longer work time. I'm not sure this is what you were talking about, but I sort of accidentally found something that makes recess shading ivory/bone far less painful. Do you generally need to use a lot of flow improver to get the ink to flow?
Thanks for the video! I really like the FW ink, I use that one because it's in stock at dick blick. When I started initially I used it straight out of the pot which works quite well, but I'd call it more of a filter at that consistency, rather than a glaze. I started doing a mix of paint plus ink now though, and it makes a perfect glaze, that stays where you put it, and has great color saturation. Since I started doing that, it's my go-to way of making glazes
I should have included them as well, but effectively, short answer, they are VERY transparent and weak, about 1/2 the normal washes, but great for tinting and subtle blends.
Later at Daler Rowney headquarters..."Vince did a video that clearly shows the superior flow and color of our ink." "Good, double the price." Don't know where you've found these for three bucks. I'm seeing $7 at Michaels and a six pack from Amazon is $35.
@@VinceVenturella Picked up a bottle of cyan blue after seeing how rich the color was. Shook it and applied it directly to a bones mini and got a color that i would call liquid smurf. Striped and basecoated it and also let the solids settle in the FW and got a color similar to the one in the video. Does most of the line contain solids? Haven't really noticed solids using AP tones.
That plasma fluid color looks great, one of the best blues I've seen. It's a shame there's no equivalent color? Because I only use brushes and if it isnt good with brushes it'd be such a pain.
I think the most important unexpected thing I learnt about in is how I have been destroying my brushes as I'd deal with large models and end up dunking into the "shade"
Just one more thing about the Inktensity - they are not all equally strong. The blue one is actually the strongest one in the pack (along with the black one maybe). Violet is noticeably less strong in my opinion, not to mention red and yellow. The rest is somewhat stronger, but nothing's as strong as the blue one is.
It's the same with all paints, actually. Violet, red and yellow always have crap coverage, that's why they can be difficult to paint with. I believe GW intentionally selected blue Ultramarines as their noob chapter for this reason, for example.
It's a good point, I think yes the blue and Black are the strongest. Though ironically, the violet in the Vallejo Line is one of the strongest colors, so it does vary from range to range, but a good thing to keep in mind for sure.
After you have zenithaled with german panzer grey, cold grey, and dead white, how do you use the inks to smooth out the surface of the model with the airbrush?
So if you look at my Speed Painting with Inks, Washses and Glazes, I do it with a brush. it's the same techniques, basically after the zenithal, you airbrush a glaze of the ink thin to preserve the undershade. If you go all the way back to the early Zenithal Highlighting and ghosts video, you will see me do that with an airbrush.
Well, you wouldn’t thin with only flow improver. Thst is an additive, not a thinner. I have videos on paint additives and thinner in the list. That all being said, flow improver is generally going to make it flow more easily, acting more like a wash. Water will simply reduce its opacity and intensity. Now that can also cause wash like effects if you don’t wick away the excess liquids. Check out the other videos in the playlist on this topic, I’ve done some deep dives.
Thanks Vince! Very helpful. I see already a few comments about Vallejo “Game” washes here. I own the set, and to me was very disappointed in them, and I’m a big Vallejo guy (I have the Inks, too). There are not many videos/reviews on that set. If you Have that set yourself, maybe do a review on them because to me, they do not perform as well as say Army Painter or Citadel washes. I’ve noticed that the Vallejo set kind of dries “Chalky” - best I can explain it?! Very Matt finish as well. And that sort of Grey color..... other than maybe tinting down white, what is it good to use for? Kind of a useless color?! Also, I personally think they don’t flow as well as the other two brands I mentioned. But there’s no real good Vallejo wash review/comparison out there for people to see. Or, I suppose it’s possible I have a bad batch??
Barrington, there are actually two separate sets. The Game Inks I showed, as well as a Game Wash set that is different. I tend to agree that they are underperformers really. I am not a fan in the end (of the washes) - I like the inks, those i use all the time.
Vince Venturella - yeah I’m not a fan either as I said as well about the “Game color Washes” I know the Inks are great. I’d still like to see a review of the Game washes, mainly to tell others about them. And see what it is you do or don’t like about them.
Great Video demo on Inks. Just getting back into models and figurines as I approach retirement and came across your web page. Its been over 30 yrs since I last did it and Ink is all new to me and I look forward to the trials and tribulations of using it. So just to be clear is Inking another form of wash to accentuate recess such as the deep folds in clothing and add vibrant color depending on the ink I use as you demonstrated? I guess my next question is when to ink vs when to wash?
Happy to help. Basically, they don't replace a wash, those are more fit for purpose. Inks are there to make soft transparent glazes, increase saturation, or do fine, thin detail work. Hope that helps. :)
Bloop! Seriously though, great vid as always. Very informative. Being that you have so many vids, do you have one on the main differences between a wash, a tint and an ink?
I can see the airbrushing ink onto a space marine or monster that is usually one solid color to remove the frosted look. On other models that are not going to be mostly a single color, or will have an even mixture of cool and warm tones, what color of ink would you shoot?
Did you remember any video where you demonstrate fix airbrush transistion with ink or glaze ? I remember see you demonstate it, back can't remember which video it is. Also, when you mean using ink to fix Airbush feel, you mean using ink though airbrush or use ink to glaze ?
Yep, I mean using it through an airbrush to fix/glaze, remove the "powdery" look. I do a little in the panel modulation video, so you may want to start there.
Hi Vince, nice review as always! Is there a specific video of yours you'd recommend someone who's just starting to use inks in airbrush to see your technique and theory?
The Panel Modulation hobby cheating, I use inks in that in combination with the paints. It will give you an idea of how I integrate it into airbrushing. Caleb Wissenback also has some videos on the Hobby hangout channel.
Hey Vince, great video - really helpful. I started painting after an eight year break couple of months ago, and I want to get something similar to the old Citadel red ink for a specific Khorne Armour recipé I did back then. I have the vallejo game ink but that one is a quite light/bright red whereas the Citadel was more bloody, still intense but slightly darker. Do you have a recommendation for which red frem of these brands to serve just that? Thanks
It's tough, I am not sure of that exact tone, you could look at something like Red Earth, but I would look through the Daler Rowney FW line and Liquitex Artist's line and see if something catches the eye.
I got the Vallejo Violet Game Ink instead of the Citadel Druuchi Violet, it does dry very glossy or perhaps I used it incorrectly? I should thin it perhaps with some matte medium... Very helpful video Thanks!
It's one of the glossier inks. Cutting it with a little ultra matte varnish will knock that right out, and if you mix it with a little ultra matte varnish and flow aid, you'll effectively make your own wash.
Speaking of your previous video on paints, do you have any plans to do a follow up on newer entrants to the market or paints you didn't get around to last time such as P3, Pro Acryl, Secret Weapon, Legendary, Kimera Kolors, etc?
Well, that's just it, in the end, the word doesn't really matter because it gets used too loosely. Theoretically, the medium and pigmentation sets it apart, but as you can see, that isn't always the case. :)
I have Inktensity 2, lime ink and soilworks moss green... painting necron eyes... outside of experimentation is there any reason to use the wash vs the ink? seems like a silly question and I suspect the answer is, try both see which one you like better.
I've just discovered your channel, absolutely brilliant stuff. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm getting the impression that most of these inks are pretty much contrast paints?
Kind of the other way around, Contrast Paints are very much like a thinned ink with flow improver. ;) - But yes, you are correct, much of the same properties. Many of these shades and inks have similar flow improver and so will cover because they are highly pigmented, but gather in the lower areas or recesses, as they are thin and have flow improver.
I was looking for the FW inks on my local art supplies website and they have a set of metallic acrylic inks from liquitex. Have you ever seen anything like these?
They are very different. The Transparents are more like a glaze and use the Gel Medium, they are more for either feathering on the miniature or thinning directly and applying as a glaze. The inks are VERY light and basically a filter. They are also very glossy, they are great for thinning the paint colors and increasing transparency. Hope that helps.
So i'm new to hobby and i would like to try Ink's. What would be 5 colors that would be most useful to start with, i'm asking since colors and other materials are expensive specially at a beginning when i need to buy multiple bottles at once and i wouldn't like to blow money for some shades that would be considered as expansion later. Its really hard for me to get Inks from figure painting companies so i will probably go with Vallejo (cheapest), Daler Rowney, Amsterdam or Schmincke artistic acrylic inks since i can get them easily.
So my answer is either A) the Vallejo Game Ink set or B) The following colors from Daler Rowney FW Ink - White Ink, Payne's Grey, Burnt Umber (and then your two most common colors you like from hues.)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much for replay. Will go for B option, will add one additional color so i will get cyan, magenta and yellow which in ''theory'' i can mix every color i need. PS: Have you ever try Vallejo artistic acrylic inks. They are almost half the price of Daler Rowney FW Inks? Only information that i find is that they tend to dry with satin finish.
In shopping around for good flesh tones for a verminlord (will test on some untamed beasts) , I found the flesh ink from Daler-roney, do you think i'd get a good effect doing black -> white ink zenithal -> flesh ink, then mix burnt umber with flesh ink for deeper shadows, mix white and flesh for highest highlights, or should I spend some more time practicing your hobby cheating: skin series? It's a verminlord so I would like it to be better than my basic troops of Vallejo primer desert tan -> guilliman flesh.
So I will admit that I have not used that particular one, but one of the things with flesh is that there is really a hundred ways to go about it (as you will have seen from recent videos in this series). That being said, yes, I think what you are describing would be a wonderful way to get an interesting skin tone over the zenithal.
Hey vince thanks for the excellent videos I'm watching through the night whilst feeding my new born. Could you possibly do a video demonstrating use of inks through an airbrush? Over glazes etc? Like you said in the video using an ink to hide airbrush transition. I'm terrified that the ink will be too runny and ruin my model. Thanks again
I am thinking of dipping into inks (great video btw!). Vallejo is reasonable cheap where I live (2.25 euro per bottle), so there set would make the most sense. Even though scale 75 is more expensive (3.50 per bottle), I do quite like the look of Inktense wood and chestnut. I don't like the glossy finish though. What would be your preferred method of matting them down?
The Vallejo are a great place to start, I still use them all the time to this day. As to matte finish for the Inktensity, a little Ak Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish will knock the shine right out.
Is it common to have to varnish over inks before going over them with a brush or am I just not giving them enough time to dry? I'm using liquitex acrylic inks.
It's different enough it didn't feel like it belonged, but I probably should have included it just for completeness, because they actually have 2. The first, Vallejo Game Wash is more or less the equivalent of the GW washes, but doesn't seem to flow as well. The Wash for Vehicles is WAY weaker and is used more for vehicle tinting, weather and environmental effects.
What about alcohol based inks? I use them for translucent staining, esp translucent plastic pieces because their tinting is better than water based and they dry faster.
Hey Vince, love the video, super useful information. Wanted to just mention Secret Weapon Washes too - they're probably most like the greenstuffworld product, except they also have a gloss medium too - has that been your experience in the past? Or have you not used them?
The only true inks here are Scale Color Inktensity. All others are essentially washes or glazes. Inktensity are the only ones that resemble the old GW inks, which were absolutely amazing.
Great video, I have a been dipping my toe into inks, some times to great effect, and sometimes not so much. Here is my question, which Maybe a future video. I can not for the life of me get good female flesh tones, that smooth transition seemed to evade me. The best I can get is a few passes with an airbrush, but does not get the darker areas properly (could be my air brush skills) and adding a wash seems to mess it up and I have to try to manually make the transitions.. so my question is can you use inks to get that buttery smooth skin tone on females, and maybe prescribe a hobby cheating video, as you have how to do faces, but that seems like it. I have a ton of KDM models and most have large areas of female flesh. Please Vince, your my only hope.
Sure, the short answer is glazes, lots and lots of glazes (which I have a video on). That being said, the real answer is you set some stronger values and then you smooth the transitions. It's not an exact match, the video on painting pink demonic skin does this (albeit with a slightly shifted color palette) - ruclips.net/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/видео.html Hope that helps and I will add standard flesh tone to the list.
Thanks for this enlightening side-by-side. My question is, have you ever worked with or know how Amsterdam Inks work in comparison to FW? Amsterdam is the only ink set my local store seems to have, and was wondering if it would achieve similar results.
I am not familiar with them. I have used Liquitex and that is much the same. The key is to look at things like the light fastness and the water resistance once it's set.
What would you say is a good highlight color for p3 turquoise ink? I used it for speed painting over a zen. But was looking to do some battle damage/ line highlights. Thoughts?
So it's a little more green, so anything in the lighter versions of what I do here would work (the lighter blue/green tones would work fine), You could also use the ice yellow or the other colors you see here.
Text summary so I don't need to watch the video a 3rd or 4th time!
Summary @32:13
Vince can be mean to his brushes
Use synthetic brushes and/or keep the inks out of the ferrule
Vince's ink recommendation:
1st get: Vallejo Game Ink
next get: FW and Scale75 Inktensity
P3 is a valid replacement for Inktensity
Citadel: @5:36
Best for dark into recesses, weak, do not change color, avoid flat spaces
P3: @7:57
Incredibly potent and powerful, bright hues, great working over zenithal, speed painting, airbrushing doesn't cause speckles / frosted look
Warcolour: @10:28
Largest variety of colors, strong but weaker than P3, main colors strong, dries somewhat glossy, best as a thinner for gel based paints (warcolour, scale75)
Army Painter: @13:48
Lot like GW shades, basically the same
Strong / Medium tones are weaker to GW shade equivalents but other colors are stronger than GW shade equivalents
Vallejo Game Ink: @15:40
Best starter ink set, low priced, flows incredibly well, incredible intensity, dries matt,
Scale75 Inktensity @18:09
Good Inktense wood, black, chestnut, red, yellow
Glossy, Rich, very intense and dark when not thinned
Good to intensify a color
Will withstand thinning more than other inks can thin with water
GreenStuffWorld: @21:26
Similar to Army Painter / GW
Really weak in comparison to others
best for tints vs ink/heavy wash, add light touches of shadow color
Badger Paints: @23:51
Ghost Tint:
Best as a tint over an airbrush over another color
Incredibly glossy from a brush
Ghost Tints don't go on well w/ a brush - spotty
Metalsmith:
Very glossy
Best for working over TMM, especially Vallejo Metal Color
Works great with a brush or airbrush
Daler-Rowney FW: @28:00
Vince's most commonly used inks
Best $ value, Unbelievably strong, airbrush or brushing works great
Vince's colors of choice: Payne's Grey, White, Sepia, Turquiose, Purple, Burnt Umbra
thins incredibly well, water, medium, flow improver etc
dries somewhere between matt & satin, but mixes with matt medium well
This is an absolutely awesome summary.
Thank you
Thanks, The video Is great, but the summary is a great addition, so , like you i don't need to see it 100 times
Thanks a lot:)
Extremely useful, found this on my third watch through, with long intervals, stopped taking notes and copy-paste!
Everytime I have a mini related question I type it in youtube and add vince venturella at the end and you usually have the answer. Cant believe people use to paint without a RUclips sensei
Well thank you, that's the goal of the channel. :)
I'm subscribed to all of the major, and many minor minipainting channels out there. They are all very talented, undeniably. Although, among all of them the only minipainter that makes me have an uncontrollable urge to paint is Vince Venturella. Thank your for being a true inspiration, and guide for all of us minipainters everywhere.
Thank you, that means a great deal to me. :)
As long as they flow into the resources, that's the main thing!! :)
I mean, if they don't they are basically worthless right? ;)
I would flow into anyone's resources quite happily too, seeing as I never have any of my own Lol!
@@AnneAndersonFoxiepaws Right? Stupid hobby, so expensive. XD
@@montlejohnbojangles8937 it’s not stupid if you enjoy it
Nominated for Warhammer Hero. You’re certainly my hobby hero Vince!
Well thank you, I don't think I deserve that, but I appreciate it very much and I am always glad to help. :)
Vince your channel is a POT OF GOLD. When I was a teenager and first got into mini painting available resources were white dwarf, codexes or painting books and since I've gotten back into painting in the last year I can't believe how much knowledge is available on your channel compared to what used to be available. EVERY SINGLE TIME I walk away having learned something I had never even thought of that I'm sure has improved the outcomes of the rest of my painting sessions. THANK YOU
Very happy to help as always. :)
This is my 3rd watching... I get ‘something ‘out of each & every view. There is so much reference in each post you do; it takes me a few times to fully digest all the knowledge that you put out ! Thanks so much. I’ve been painting for some time, but only in the past few years have I really been going for more than ‘table top quality ‘. I had mainly been historical wargaming in 15mm or similar so that was good enough. Now I’ve been working on larger models (28mm) and I’ve been concentrating on going slower & trying to add more techniques in each squad(ie- glazing/washes/dry brush/edge hi lighting). Thanks so much for all posts & the clear & concise way you explain. Enjoy your weekend
That's awesome and I am glad it's helpful. :)
Very good comparison - great to see them side-by-side. Thank you so much.
Happy to help as always. :)
Awesome video. This channel is my main go to one for getting advice on how to paint properly, and it keeps getting better.
Thank you, always trying to up the game.
fantastic ^^ this channel is such a hidden treasure
Thank you, I very much appreciate it.
Love this video, due to finance I added the game ink set to my must buy list, thanks for the heads up.
Glad I could help!
Great product round up, so useful since these all have such different characteristics. One more thing you can use for a wash if you're adventurous is oils. Look for colours that have a high transparency and tinting strength (most manufacturers tell you this). Thin with odourless mineral spirits and voila a very intense wash/ink/shade which flows really well. You can also take a bit of oms on a brush and selectively remove your tint in certain areas. Pthalo blue (and other pthalo colours) work well for this, i recently did a jet pack flame with it and was quite pleased with the result. Anyway thanks once again Vince, at this point this hobby cheating series is one of the best internet resources for mini painters!
Yep, a while back I did a video on oil washes. I use them all the time, I really do love oil washes as well, they are wonderful for flowing into recesses and they can clean up so easily and smoothly.
Thanks from the future for all you do Vince. Your long-form content is really nice and helpful.
Glad you like them!
Best part of video: "I'm blue, a-ba-dee, a-ba-daa".
It's not one of my videos if I don't try to drop some strange references to keep it entertaining.
Man Vince, you're a saint. Thanks for this video, because of you, my first ink set was vallejo and I LOVE IT. The FW's are up next :)
Glad I could help!
Hi and Moin!
That was great. Thank you so much. I've learned so much in this Video and your Chanel. Incredible informative. And now i need more Scale Colors ;).
Greetings Ruberius
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Also I must point out that the Daler Rowney FW Artists Inks have a large range of colours, around 5 or more for just yellow, pretty cool if you're say going to paint / highlight those Imperial Fists. I drew up a preliminary compatibility chart with FW inks and Citadel wash ones as the FW inks are a bit cheaper, also doing the same for GW washes and washes made from W&N Artist oil paints as this is certainly a lot cheaper.
Yep, it's an excellent point,there is a wonderful range of colors. I love Yellow Ochre for the Imperial Fists.
Good tip for ruining brushes. I have certainly done that. I will try to save future brushes.
Yep, those cheap brushes are your go to for sure. :)
I have so many of these already... in cupboards, in drawers and under the bed. Some I do have that are similar but likely different altogether are the Vallejo model color transparent colours and Tamiya Acrylic transparent colours. The latter after seeing their use after a miniature or model had been varnished and lost a bit of colour satuation or needed a bit of a hue tint slightly towards a different colour.
I love airbrushing the clear line of tamiya paints over different metallics to get candy apple red etc. It's awesome.
Yep, the Clear Tamiya are really their own product and super cool for candy coats.
this video is one of the best recesses of information on the subject of inks I've seen, thanks Vince!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
This was really excellent and a big help, my first time dipping my toe in non citadel inks and washes and had no idea what army painter tones might do.
I kind want to see you do something with that emerald life swarm now
I'll probably just try to paint it from there and it will be this strange blue scintillating pattern. :) - Glad to help your journey outside of the GW range.
Awesome video, thanks so much for investing the time to put this together amazing to see the differences
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips and explanations, Vince! I've got plenty of shades, but I've been looking to expand into more traditional inks! After your excellent demonstrations, I think I'll start with some Vallejo! ^_^
~ Wolfbrother Methos
It's the right place to start, it will give you a good feel of the thing and they are fun to experiment with.
Wow Eiffel 65 reference. Haven't thought of them for 20 years and now can't get that song out of my head. Thanks a lot.
You are welcome, once you hear even a few notes, it's just stuck there. :)
@@VinceVenturella arghhhhh!
Lol I don't think me or any of my projects have any resources but I am really happy to hear your Vallejo review. I haven't been happy with the 'deadness' that a lot of acrylics seem to have and thought I would try some model friendly inks. They sound like they're going to do everything I need. Great general ink review too! (I did sub, I find if another miniaturist, no matter how different your miniatures of choice are, does something that crosses over into my area of interest, they're worth following as you never stop learning!
Awesome, glad to have you along on the hobby journey and always happy to help. :)
Terrific and insightful review. Very much appreciated 👍🏻
Hey Vince,
thank you very much! Really loved the video. Very informative and helpful. Really appreciated.
Excellent, thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Such a informative video, thank you vince!
My pleasure!
Very interesting video Vince. You really are a fantastic mine of information. I had no idea how easy it is to destroy a brush with ink😳
Thanks again.
Keith
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
It looks like Sam Lenz's approach of buying cheap brushes in bulk for use with washes, flow improvers, metallics, drybrushes, etc. is very reasonable indeed. All of those are detrimental, so if you use these techniques a lot, there is no point in buying expensive brushes.
100%, he is totally in the right. You need a few good brushes for delicate and detail work, but those are your work horses.
I didn't see the Eiffel 65 reference coming. Lol. Great video. It's nice to see a comprehensive comparison.
I try to keep the references fresh to the mid-90s. ;) - Thank you and happy to help as always.
Another fantastic overview. This and the paint review have taught me a lot as a newer painter, and I feel amazed I know enough to understand some of the differences. Have you ever thought about doing a big comparison of contrast/SpeedPaint/etc? I feel like there's enough types that you could get a good conversation out of them, and would love your thoughts on Warcolours Antithesis range. The army painter stuff looked great until I realized Warcolours has had that set for more than a year and more colors to boot, but finding information on them is hard. Either way, thanks for taking the time to talk through all this.
Yep, I want to both update this and do a full speed paint review/compare as well this year. :)
can’t believe this info is out here for free, thank you!
Happy to help!
I could add that Secret Weapon washes are of the GW/AP/GSW type. They just have a bigger range of colors - though most of them are varieties of brown.
An excellent addition and a good point. They do have some wonderful colors.
Great guide/comparison! i'm looking forward to try some fw inks!
They are amazing for sure. Well worth it.
Great video. Just made my decision on what inks to buy
Excellent. :)
and here i was about to check out liquitex when Daler Rowney is cheaper....... saved me quite the dosh mate
Thanks Vince. Invaluable information. I bought the Inktense set a long time ago and short of using a little bit of green, I am at a loss as to how to use them. I will definitely incorporate them a little more in my painting.
One request, is there a plan to do a Hobby Cheating on using white ink? I have some Daler Rowney white ink and would like to using it, especially to try and start incorporating more fluros but I have no idea where to start.
I didn't have any video specifically planned, but I am sure it will come up all the time in the course of other projects. My general way I use it is what you have likely seen in other videos. I use it mixed with paint for edge highlighting, final white highlights or light points, or just painting the final smooth white highlights in combination with the HBA.
I use the Inktense Wood as my first level over drybrushed zenithal on trees and stuff. The black and chesnut are thin tints for TMM. Hope that all helps.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, big help. I suspected that may be the case because it would be strong for brightening colours to use as edge highlights. I will use that as my first practice.
Interested to try tinting TMM as well, that sounds like it could create some really interesting finishes.
Keep up the great work, I love your tips and knowledge.
If you have an airbrush .. IMHO some of the best zenithal highlighting is thinned DR white over Molotow flat black (that may not be obvious because the Molotow is sold as refills for their pens).. but the black and grey-blue dark are great bases for zenithal, and DR or Liquitex white is the ideal highlight.
@4:13 "I'm blue da ba dee da ba die" ... love it! Eiffel 65 FTW... @32:47 Excellent public service announcement on Inks and brush "safety". @VinceVenturella thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the properties and behaviors of the various brands of inks, sharing your thoughts and experiences, and educating the masses on inks and their uses. I have one question; couldn't any of these brands be made to behave similarly to the GreenStuff Wash/Ink by adding a high ratio of flow improver to ink?
Sure, you can generally get to something thinner and more flowing if you are starting with the more "potent" inks.
YES! Been waiting for this
Thank you, happy to oblige. :)
I wish the Daler-Rowney were still $3 a piece. Cheapest I have found them is $9 a pot now. :(
Still worth it. :)
Vince haaalp. I’ve been trying to use the Dahler Rowney and Liquitex inks but it seems like as soon as I put anything over top of them they just peel right off. I just tried a standard zenithal with titanium white and was super impressed how nicely it came out. So I thought, this time I’ll put some varnish over it. Just a big floppy mess 😂. Anyways, hopefully it’s just something simple you might be able to nail down for me. Thank you! **sloppy
Well, all inks can be reactivated, but let's look at the following.
1) How are you applying the inks? If you are using a brush, you may need to give them longer to dry.
2) How did you apply the varnish, you want to apply that with an airbrush.
3) Sometimes the humidity in your area can effect this. I don't have any issue, but my painting area is super dry, so things tend to pull all liquid out.
4) Try missing just a few drops of satin or matte varnish with your inks when you apply them. This will add a little more resistance to the base ink.
Hope that all helps.
Vince Venturella thanks, doing all the things on checklist but I’ll try again with even longer dry time and mixing the varnish in.
Would you be willing to do the same type of video with metallic paints? I know you're a massive fan of Vallejo Metallic Color and don't really like the rest, but it's hard to see why without seeing them side by side. I'm really curious about this.
Awesome videos as always.
Yes, the metal paints one is certainly something I have planned. it will happen (I just have to get all my metal paints back, since I got rid of most after the Vallejo Metal Color. But it will happen. :)
As always- great post. Thanks. Super helpful and useful. I always recommend your channel and expertise to those I speak with on the ‘tube’. Also, your painting work is wonderful! I learn so much from you/your tips. (Gushing session over...sorry Hahahaha)
But seriously- thanks
Thank you, always happy to help and very much appreciate the sharing.
These are the best kind of video's you make Vince! Nobody else does these overview vids as impartially and as thoroughly as you! Many thanks!
I own all the Vallejo inks and inktense wood and chestnut from scale 75 and have been using them the past couple of years. Daler Rowney and Liquitex cost about the same (around 6 euro per pot). I want to try white ink (to use instead of white paint trough the airbrush). What else would you recommend I try based on the collection I already have?
Definitely White Ink, that's a must buy. Payne's Grey would be next, it's just infiinitely useful. My next puchase would by Burnt Umber or Sepia, basically, a nice brown with lots of varied uses.
Once again Vince another great hobby cheating video. Your channel is such a great source of knowledge and inspiration. KUTGW..... Sean
Thank you, very much appreciated and happy to help. :)
Amazing video. I’m really interested in the panel lining with the FW inks you mentioned. Do they just need a bit of thinning and some flow improver? What flow improver do you prefer?
I'd also like to know some more info with regards to this
Clearly it sounds like we have a video here. I will add it to the list. The short answer is yes, darker ink and some flow improver with a sharp brush.
@@VinceVenturella I was playing around with this and used a ton of liquitex flow aid (like 15 drops to one drop of FW sepia) and a little bit of glaze medium and achieved something that was more similar to a GW shade, but without the coffee staining and a longer work time. I'm not sure this is what you were talking about, but I sort of accidentally found something that makes recess shading ivory/bone far less painful. Do you generally need to use a lot of flow improver to get the ink to flow?
Thanks for the video! I really like the FW ink, I use that one because it's in stock at dick blick. When I started initially I used it straight out of the pot which works quite well, but I'd call it more of a filter at that consistency, rather than a glaze. I started doing a mix of paint plus ink now though, and it makes a perfect glaze, that stays where you put it, and has great color saturation. Since I started doing that, it's my go-to way of making glazes
Awesome, happy to help. :)
Good stuff. I have a starter sets of Liquitex inks on the way.
Awesome, happy to help as always.
Very valuable information in this epsiode.
Thanks a lot!
I'd be interested in the way GW Glazes work in comparison to inks/washes.
I should have included them as well, but effectively, short answer, they are VERY transparent and weak, about 1/2 the normal washes, but great for tinting and subtle blends.
Later at Daler Rowney headquarters..."Vince did a video that clearly shows the superior flow and color of our ink." "Good, double the price." Don't know where you've found these for three bucks. I'm seeing $7 at Michaels and a six pack from Amazon is $35.
Crazy, still worth it. :)
@@VinceVenturella Picked up a bottle of cyan blue after seeing how rich the color was. Shook it and applied it directly to a bones mini and got a color that i would call liquid smurf. Striped and basecoated it and also let the solids settle in the FW and got a color similar to the one in the video. Does most of the line contain solids? Haven't really noticed solids using AP tones.
That plasma fluid color looks great, one of the best blues I've seen. It's a shame there's no equivalent color? Because I only use brushes and if it isnt good with brushes it'd be such a pain.
I agree with you, it's a wonderful color, but it's tricky with the brush. It's doable, it just tougher to work with.
I think the most important unexpected thing I learnt about in is how I have been destroying my brushes as I'd deal with large models and end up dunking into the "shade"
Just one more thing about the Inktensity - they are not all equally strong. The blue one is actually the strongest one in the pack (along with the black one maybe). Violet is noticeably less strong in my opinion, not to mention red and yellow. The rest is somewhat stronger, but nothing's as strong as the blue one is.
It's the same with all paints, actually. Violet, red and yellow always have crap coverage, that's why they can be difficult to paint with. I believe GW intentionally selected blue Ultramarines as their noob chapter for this reason, for example.
It's a good point, I think yes the blue and Black are the strongest. Though ironically, the violet in the Vallejo Line is one of the strongest colors, so it does vary from range to range, but a good thing to keep in mind for sure.
Thanks for sharing this. It has been very helpful.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
After you have zenithaled with german panzer grey, cold grey, and dead white, how do you use the inks to smooth out the surface of the model with the airbrush?
So if you look at my Speed Painting with Inks, Washses and Glazes, I do it with a brush. it's the same techniques, basically after the zenithal, you airbrush a glaze of the ink thin to preserve the undershade. If you go all the way back to the early Zenithal Highlighting and ghosts video, you will see me do that with an airbrush.
The Blue Man group would be proud of this video.
They are who I do everything for. ;)
A1 as always Vince, love watching your vids, keep up the good work. :)
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Can you explain the difference between using water vs flow improver for thinning down inks? Thanks.
Well, you wouldn’t thin with only flow improver. Thst is an additive, not a thinner. I have videos on paint additives and thinner in the list. That all being said, flow improver is generally going to make it flow more easily, acting more like a wash. Water will simply reduce its opacity and intensity. Now that can also cause wash like effects if you don’t wick away the excess liquids. Check out the other videos in the playlist on this topic, I’ve done some deep dives.
Thanks Vince! Very helpful. I see already a few comments about Vallejo “Game” washes here. I own the set, and to me was very disappointed in them, and I’m a big Vallejo guy (I have the Inks, too). There are not many videos/reviews on that set. If you Have that set yourself, maybe do a review on them because to me, they do not perform as well as say Army Painter or Citadel washes. I’ve noticed that the Vallejo set kind of dries “Chalky” - best I can explain it?! Very Matt finish as well. And that sort of Grey color..... other than maybe tinting down white, what is it good to use for? Kind of a useless color?! Also, I personally think they don’t flow as well as the other two brands I mentioned. But there’s no real good Vallejo wash review/comparison out there for people to see. Or, I suppose it’s possible I have a bad batch??
He did review the Vallejo ink, he said it was very good.
Barrington, there are actually two separate sets. The Game Inks I showed, as well as a Game Wash set that is different. I tend to agree that they are underperformers really. I am not a fan in the end (of the washes) - I like the inks, those i use all the time.
Vince Venturella - yeah I’m not a fan either as I said as well about the “Game color Washes” I know the Inks are great. I’d still like to see a review of the Game washes, mainly to tell others about them. And see what it is you do or don’t like about them.
Great work Vince, thank you
Thank you, always happy to assist.
Great Video demo on Inks. Just getting back into models and figurines as I approach retirement and came across your web page. Its been over 30 yrs since I last did it and Ink is all new to me and I look forward to the trials and tribulations of using it.
So just to be clear is Inking another form of wash to accentuate recess such as the deep folds in clothing and add vibrant color depending on the ink I use as you demonstrated?
I guess my next question is when to ink vs when to wash?
Happy to help. Basically, they don't replace a wash, those are more fit for purpose. Inks are there to make soft transparent glazes, increase saturation, or do fine, thin detail work. Hope that helps. :)
Great info thanks one question. Hope much to thin using airbrush for shading. Again Thank you
So it varies some by color, but at minimum a 1-1 ratio, some require more like 3 or 4 to 1 (thinner to paint).
You can definitely tell on the pallette how much richer in pigment the Army is over the GW.
Yep, it's a significant difference.
Bloop! Seriously though, great vid as always. Very informative. Being that you have so many vids, do you have one on the main differences between a wash, a tint and an ink?
Beyond what I discuss here, I really haven't covered it in depth. All are basically some amount of pigment (tint/shade
That being said, happy to help as always. :)
A lot of good resources here :P Thank you!
Thank you, happy to help as always.
I can see the airbrushing ink onto a space marine or monster that is usually one solid color to remove the frosted look. On other models that are not going to be mostly a single color, or will have an even mixture of cool and warm tones, what color of ink would you shoot?
Whatever color would be appropriate. With time and practice, you can be pretty surgical with this stuff so you are only hitting the areas you want. :)
ghost tints are damn good
Did you remember any video where you demonstrate fix airbrush transistion with ink or glaze ? I remember see you demonstate it, back can't remember which video it is. Also, when you mean using ink to fix Airbush feel, you mean using ink though airbrush or use ink to glaze ?
Yep, I mean using it through an airbrush to fix/glaze, remove the "powdery" look. I do a little in the panel modulation video, so you may want to start there.
This is an awesome video, thank you!
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Hi Vince, nice review as always! Is there a specific video of yours you'd recommend someone who's just starting to use inks in airbrush to see your technique and theory?
The Panel Modulation hobby cheating, I use inks in that in combination with the paints. It will give you an idea of how I integrate it into airbrushing. Caleb Wissenback also has some videos on the Hobby hangout channel.
Great video, looking for the dragonfly miniature that you were demonstrating on, can you tell me anything more about it?
The dragonflies are the life swarm endless spell from Malign Sorcery. You get them as a pack of spells.
Hey Vince are you planning on reviewing the warcolours antithesis paint line?
I tried them and those didn'e really appeal to me sadly.
@@VinceVenturella all the more reason to make a product review?
I miss the old citadel ink with its hyper glossy finnish. Theres no ink these days who can match that intensity. It also smelled very good.
I don't miss the gloss, as I prefer matte finishes, but you aren't wrong at all on the smell. ;)
Hey Vince, great video - really helpful. I started painting after an eight year break couple of months ago, and I want to get something similar to the old Citadel red ink for a specific Khorne Armour recipé I did back then. I have the vallejo game ink but that one is a quite light/bright red whereas the Citadel was more bloody, still intense but slightly darker. Do you have a recommendation for which red frem of these brands to serve just that? Thanks
It's tough, I am not sure of that exact tone, you could look at something like Red Earth, but I would look through the Daler Rowney FW line and Liquitex Artist's line and see if something catches the eye.
I got the Vallejo Violet Game Ink instead of the Citadel Druuchi Violet, it does dry very glossy or perhaps I used it incorrectly? I should thin it perhaps with some matte medium... Very helpful video Thanks!
It's one of the glossier inks. Cutting it with a little ultra matte varnish will knock that right out, and if you mix it with a little ultra matte varnish and flow aid, you'll effectively make your own wash.
Speaking of your previous video on paints, do you have any plans to do a follow up on newer entrants to the market or paints you didn't get around to last time such as P3, Pro Acryl, Secret Weapon, Legendary, Kimera Kolors, etc?
Lord knows I really should. The reality is there is so many new paints out, I could probably do a full round 2.
Awesome, really helpful. Thank you
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Great experiment! Thankyou.
Thanks, glad it was helpful. :)
Cool vid. In the end you never did tell us what the difference between a wash and an ink is!
Well, that's just it, in the end, the word doesn't really matter because it gets used too loosely. Theoretically, the medium and pigmentation sets it apart, but as you can see, that isn't always the case. :)
I have Inktensity 2, lime ink and soilworks moss green... painting necron eyes... outside of experimentation is there any reason to use the wash vs the ink? seems like a silly question and I suspect the answer is, try both see which one you like better.
That is the answer, but I suspect the wash is very weak and you will get better results on something that small with the ink.
I've just discovered your channel, absolutely brilliant stuff.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm getting the impression that most of these inks are pretty much contrast paints?
Kind of the other way around, Contrast Paints are very much like a thinned ink with flow improver. ;) - But yes, you are correct, much of the same properties. Many of these shades and inks have similar flow improver and so will cover because they are highly pigmented, but gather in the lower areas or recesses, as they are thin and have flow improver.
I was looking for the FW inks on my local art supplies website and they have a set of metallic acrylic inks from liquitex. Have you ever seen anything like these?
I have seen the liquid metallics, I have tried a few of them and found they are okay. It's likely worth more experimentation.
Question regarding warcolours inks vs their transparent colors are they interchangeable or are they for different purposes?
They are very different. The Transparents are more like a glaze and use the Gel Medium, they are more for either feathering on the miniature or thinning directly and applying as a glaze.
The inks are VERY light and basically a filter. They are also very glossy, they are great for thinning the paint colors and increasing transparency.
Hope that helps.
So i'm new to hobby and i would like to try Ink's. What would be 5 colors that would be most useful to start with, i'm asking since colors and other materials are expensive specially at a beginning when i need to buy multiple bottles at once and i wouldn't like to blow money for some shades that would be considered as expansion later. Its really hard for me to get Inks from figure painting companies so i will probably go with Vallejo (cheapest), Daler Rowney, Amsterdam or Schmincke artistic acrylic inks since i can get them easily.
So my answer is either A) the Vallejo Game Ink set or B) The following colors from Daler Rowney FW Ink - White Ink, Payne's Grey, Burnt Umber (and then your two most common colors you like from hues.)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much for replay. Will go for B option, will add one additional color so i will get cyan, magenta and yellow which in ''theory'' i can mix every color i need.
PS: Have you ever try Vallejo artistic acrylic inks. They are almost half the price of Daler Rowney FW Inks? Only information that i find is that they tend to dry with satin finish.
In shopping around for good flesh tones for a verminlord (will test on some untamed beasts) , I found the flesh ink from Daler-roney, do you think i'd get a good effect doing black -> white ink zenithal -> flesh ink, then mix burnt umber with flesh ink for deeper shadows, mix white and flesh for highest highlights, or should I spend some more time practicing your hobby cheating: skin series? It's a verminlord so I would like it to be better than my basic troops of Vallejo primer desert tan -> guilliman flesh.
So I will admit that I have not used that particular one, but one of the things with flesh is that there is really a hundred ways to go about it (as you will have seen from recent videos in this series). That being said, yes, I think what you are describing would be a wonderful way to get an interesting skin tone over the zenithal.
Hey vince thanks for the excellent videos I'm watching through the night whilst feeding my new born. Could you possibly do a video demonstrating use of inks through an airbrush? Over glazes etc? Like you said in the video using an ink to hide airbrush transition. I'm terrified that the ink will be too runny and ruin my model. Thanks again
Stay tuned at 2PM today and you may see a good example. ;)
@@VinceVenturella awesome thanks, also I heard rumours you're headed over to the UK? Are you doing any classes?
Yep, the full schedule is here - ckstudios.bigcartel.com/products
I am thinking of dipping into inks (great video btw!). Vallejo is reasonable cheap where I live (2.25 euro per bottle), so there set would make the most sense. Even though scale 75 is more expensive (3.50 per bottle), I do quite like the look of Inktense wood and chestnut. I don't like the glossy finish though. What would be your preferred method of matting them down?
The Vallejo are a great place to start, I still use them all the time to this day. As to matte finish for the Inktensity, a little Ak Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish will knock the shine right out.
Posting before rewatching.
Miniac commented he likes using white ink to zenithal prime w/an airbrush. Have you tried or recommend this?
Yep, it's fine, it can sometimes reactivate, so in general, I like to actually just use white/ivory/off-white paint.
Is it common to have to varnish over inks before going over them with a brush or am I just not giving them enough time to dry? I'm using liquitex acrylic inks.
It's often a good idea, as inks can easily reactivate.
Vallejo also do a wash line, pity it wasn't included here. Is it the same as the ink??
It's different enough it didn't feel like it belonged, but I probably should have included it just for completeness, because they actually have 2. The first, Vallejo Game Wash is more or less the equivalent of the GW washes, but doesn't seem to flow as well. The Wash for Vehicles is WAY weaker and is used more for vehicle tinting, weather and environmental effects.
What about alcohol based inks? I use them for translucent staining, esp translucent plastic pieces because their tinting is better than water based and they dry faster.
They are really a different beast all together but quite useful, I will have to tag that for a future review.
Hey Vince, love the video, super useful information. Wanted to just mention Secret Weapon Washes too - they're probably most like the greenstuffworld product, except they also have a gloss medium too - has that been your experience in the past? Or have you not used them?
I have used them some, but I didn't have a good one that could compare. They are definitely much like the Green Stuff World items.
The only true inks here are Scale Color Inktensity. All others are essentially washes or glazes. Inktensity are the only ones that resemble the old GW inks, which were absolutely amazing.
Well, certainly the Vallejo and the FW are also true inks. But yes, there are lots of different consistencies and pigmentation here.
Great video, I have a been dipping my toe into inks, some times to great effect, and sometimes not so much. Here is my question, which Maybe a future video. I can not for the life of me get good female flesh tones, that smooth transition seemed to evade me. The best I can get is a few passes with an airbrush, but does not get the darker areas properly (could be my air brush skills) and adding a wash seems to mess it up and I have to try to manually make the transitions.. so my question is can you use inks to get that buttery smooth skin tone on females, and maybe prescribe a hobby cheating video, as you have how to do faces, but that seems like it. I have a ton of KDM models and most have large areas of female flesh. Please Vince, your my only hope.
Sure, the short answer is glazes, lots and lots of glazes (which I have a video on). That being said, the real answer is you set some stronger values and then you smooth the transitions. It's not an exact match, the video on painting pink demonic skin does this (albeit with a slightly shifted color palette) - ruclips.net/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/видео.html
Hope that helps and I will add standard flesh tone to the list.
I now have that "I'm Blue" song in my head. 😣
Well, I mean that is kind of the goal. ;)
I didnt even pick it up until i saw this comment... and now its stuck in mine too 😄
Thanks for this enlightening side-by-side. My question is, have you ever worked with or know how Amsterdam Inks work in comparison to FW? Amsterdam is the only ink set my local store seems to have, and was wondering if it would achieve similar results.
I am not familiar with them. I have used Liquitex and that is much the same. The key is to look at things like the light fastness and the water resistance once it's set.
What would you say is a good highlight color for p3 turquoise ink? I used it for speed painting over a zen. But was looking to do some battle damage/ line highlights. Thoughts?
So it's a little more green, so anything in the lighter versions of what I do here would work (the lighter blue/green tones would work fine), You could also use the ice yellow or the other colors you see here.
What do you think of the FW Pearlescent inks?
Never really found a use for them ultimately.
Please please please, tell me where you got the dragon flies bug swarm. I need that yo finish a diorama. its perfect!
That is the Lifeswarm endless spell from Games Workshop Malign Sorcery expansion.