WOW WOW WOW. I just finished watching you other video on repairing the clear coat on the red car. I had absolutely no idea this was such an easy process!
Me too, I used a 2k clear coat though and the result from the can was better than the rest of the van (2015 vw transporter with standard orange peel finish)
great video! if the damaged clear is through the coat and down to the basecoat, can you still do the same steps of wetsand and apply new clear? someone commented in another of your videos that applying new basecoat is necessary (my dad's car had work done and it began oxidizing. I polished it out, but as soon as the sun and heat got to it it began oxidizing almost immediately- Im guessing it's all basecoat that needs layers of clear). thank you again.
Thank you for these 5 min fix clearcoat videos, makes the job look quite easy and within the abilities of your average home DIYer. Just one quick question, is there a particular type of clearcoat lacquer to use? is it acrylic?
Thanks! The clear coat I use is standard, off the shelf 1K automotive clear coat (laquer). Often times people do slag off 1K,but usually that's because of the lack of ability by the person applying it! 1K has always served me well!
Hey Johnny I have a 2006 Mustang GT I have a few spots where the clear coat is flaking off in spots. I didn’t have this problem until I moved to Florida. Do you think the Florida Sun has made this happen? I have it happening on my fiberglass bumper a spot on the top of the car, and a couple on the hood which is fiber glass? What grit sandpaper should I get for the repair job? Thanks Brother! Your videos are Awesome!
Hi Tazz, thanks for your comment. It's hard to say why this may have happened to your car, there are several potential causes. Regarding sandpaper, i always like to approach these kind of jobs with caution so personally, i only work with 600 - 800 grit and higher (depending on the area). My advice if you're not sure is to take a gentle approach with an 800g paper without using any heavy pressure and also make sure to keep the work area wet. Also, do not apply any pressure or contact to exposed base coat as this may lead to rubbing through! I hope that helps!
Hi mate, is that a rotary polisher or das-6 ? great content, honestly just randomly stumbled across you, the videos are on point, no waffling, no stupid graphics, no background music.
Hey Mo, thanks for watching! I use a rotary polisher - not for any specific reason, it’s just that I’ve always got on better with rotary than DA! Cheers!
@@JohnnyGetsCash thank you for clarifying, keep up this type of of content. Would love for you to simplify something like refurbing alloys. You have a new sub. (y)
Because of overspray. It’s a spot repair and without getting hard edges you’ll need to feather it out. A good trick is to spray with water prior to clear it will give you an idea of the finish and whether you need to apply more base.
I agree that in this case he should’ve hit it with a layer of base where the number plate sits. It would level a few imperfections as well as giving a more uniform finish.
The hood on my old Toyota is doing this in a big way. So much that I'm torn between going to the work to do this, or just start from square one with a new paint job. I'm not going for show, but want a decent appearance that I can easily fix if I ding or scrape something on a trail, for the sake of corrosion protection.
Depending how long the base coat has been exposed you might find that it's become discoloured and/or damaged so fresh clear coat won't do much for it and a colour respray is the only way to go. If you'll be using the truck off road you could always explore the option of a tough paint like raptor etc to give a very tough finish! Thanks for checking out the video!
Hi , nice clip. I noticed a comment about paint burn. Could I ask a question? I'm repairing a small scratch and I Think I've made a very very small burn in the clear ( using 3000 grit) The base coat seem to be a slightly different colour to surrounding paint. Why is this? Is it an illusion? Will clear correct this discoloration? Cheers John
Hi John, there are usually two main causes for discolouration ; first of the paint has been exposed to UV rays without the protection of the clear coat for a prolonged period or alternatively if the clear coat has been manually sandes through and the base coat has also been sanded (thinned). It sounds like your situation is the latter. You could still clear over it but unfortunately that won't fully rectify the difference in colour although it may help slightly. Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes in theory if you have lacquered wheels and have a flaking patch this same technique should work, just make sure the wheel is spotlessly clean as you don't want to seal in any brake dust etc!
Hi Raquel, Thanks for your question. Obviously i can't say for sure about your car, but generally matte finish cars are not clear coated. If you have a matte painted car and its flaking i would imagine its the main colour base thats flaking off. Was your car matte from the factory or is this an aftermarket re-spray (or even a plasti-dip type coat)?
Can I ask a question ?? Are you not damaging the underlying paint using the wet and dry sandpaper ?? I want to attempt a repiar myself but seeing you rubbing makes me think of scratching ?? Or is it very light ??
Hi Angela, no worries! When I'm sanding the surrounding flaking clear I'm using very fine sandpaper (kept wet), with very little pressure. I am also feeling with my fingertips where my paper is working and I concentrate on the raised, flaking area rather than the exposed base layer. Of course there will be some minimal contact with the base (this is unavoidable), however given the high grade sandpaper, wetness, lack of pressure used and the awareness of where my paper is working, I can avoid damage to the base coat. I guess a lot of the above just comes down to practice, but this is how I have always approached these repairs and so far it hasnt caused me any issues with the base coat! Thanks for your question.
Burn through is pain...Machine polishing is quite a feared task for that reason unfortunately. To be honest, if you've burnt through your clear coat (or base coat too), the only proper fix is to respray / blend the affected area as the base / clear has been removed by the polisher so there is no fixing it as such.
The 5 minutes refers to the length of the video. I start by saying "over the course of the next 5 minutes i will show you how i deal with these issues and make them a little more presentable". Naturally any bodywork repair is going to take longer than 5 minutes due to the time required for paint / clear to cure. Thanks for the comment.
I went to a collision shoo the said the only solution is to take off the clear coat on the entire panel and recoat. Are they just trying to get in my wallet? Why wouldn’t they just do this?
I guess my thumbs are used to it now, but yes...this is the quickest way to remove old plate tape, but also the quickest way to get yourself a blister!
you need to be very careful doing this , paint on modern cars is VERY thin especially on bumpers etc - its real easy to just sand straight through into the primer - so go very slowly and carefully.....
I can't see the point of taking ages wearing out your fingers rolling off the old adhesive to ensure you don't damage the paint when you are then going to use abrasive paper on it.
Hi Steve, if the adhesive is not removed then it will clog the sandpaper making it ineffective. If you don't want to use your fingers to remove the old adhesive then a mixture of chemicals and scraping will also suffice - however i find the rolling by hand technique a lot faster and more efficient.
End product looked like shit honestly. Sorry mate crap job needed to gradually go to higher grit paper wet sand then heavy compound then finishing compound then something like meguiars rejuvenator then paste wax.
![Lil Uzi Vert - We Good [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DrSfBULAsek/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice touch on the lower edge sir, not a lot of people would think of leaving that open to blend and would forever see it. Fine work as always.
Andrew you are a legend!
WOW WOW WOW. I just finished watching you other video on repairing the clear coat on the red car. I had absolutely no idea this was such an easy process!
I followed and did as in your first video you released. The result was awesome. 👍
Awesome! Top work!
Me too, I used a 2k clear coat though and the result from the can was better than the rest of the van (2015 vw transporter with standard orange peel finish)
great video!
if the damaged clear is through the coat and down to the basecoat, can you still do the same steps of wetsand and apply new clear? someone commented in another of your videos that applying new basecoat is necessary (my dad's car had work done and it began oxidizing. I polished it out, but as soon as the sun and heat got to it it began oxidizing almost immediately- Im guessing it's all basecoat that needs layers of clear).
thank you again.
Thank you for these 5 min fix clearcoat videos, makes the job look quite easy and within the abilities of your average home DIYer. Just one quick question, is there a particular type of clearcoat lacquer to use? is it acrylic?
Thanks! The clear coat I use is standard, off the shelf 1K automotive clear coat (laquer). Often times people do slag off 1K,but usually that's because of the lack of ability by the person applying it! 1K has always served me well!
Thanks mate. Gonna do this tomorrow. Didn’t realise it was so easy👍
Wait I have questions so what products did you use one order, I want to do this today this looks so feasible, please and thank you 🥰
Hey Johnny I have a 2006 Mustang GT I have a few spots where the clear coat is flaking off in spots. I didn’t have this problem until I moved to Florida. Do you think the Florida Sun has made this happen? I have it happening on my fiberglass bumper a spot on the top of the car, and a couple on the hood which is fiber glass? What grit sandpaper should I get for the repair job? Thanks Brother! Your videos are Awesome!
Hi Tazz, thanks for your comment. It's hard to say why this may have happened to your car, there are several potential causes.
Regarding sandpaper, i always like to approach these kind of jobs with caution so personally, i only work with 600 - 800 grit and higher (depending on the area). My advice if you're not sure is to take a gentle approach with an 800g paper without using any heavy pressure and also make sure to keep the work area wet. Also, do not apply any pressure or contact to exposed base coat as this may lead to rubbing through! I hope that helps!
Been waiting for this ....Awesome , thanks mate !
Glad you enjoyed it Tommy!
Lots of detail, beautiful!
Thank you!
Hey thanks for the video, and very nice car!
Thanks very much!
Hi mate, is that a rotary polisher or das-6 ? great content, honestly just randomly stumbled across you, the videos are on point, no waffling, no stupid graphics, no background music.
Hey Mo, thanks for watching! I use a rotary polisher - not for any specific reason, it’s just that I’ve always got on better with rotary than DA! Cheers!
@@JohnnyGetsCash thank you for clarifying, keep up this type of of content. Would love for you to simplify something like refurbing alloys. You have a new sub. (y)
Top job - as always! Mega-👍🏻 🤩😉
Thank you!
Whens the video of how to sort tonal differences? I have a bmw e46 helrot red that the clear has peeled and the colour coat has lightened up
i have no idea why people dont spray basecoat after sanding... i mean youve already sanded to the basecoat might aswell make it smooth again
Because its expensive
Because of overspray. It’s a spot repair and without getting hard edges you’ll need to feather it out. A good trick is to spray with water prior to clear it will give you an idea of the finish and whether you need to apply more base.
I agree that in this case he should’ve hit it with a layer of base where the number plate sits. It would level a few imperfections as well as giving a more uniform finish.
The hood on my old Toyota is doing this in a big way. So much that I'm torn between going to the work to do this, or just start from square one with a new paint job. I'm not going for show, but want a decent appearance that I can easily fix if I ding or scrape something on a trail, for the sake of corrosion protection.
Depending how long the base coat has been exposed you might find that it's become discoloured and/or damaged so fresh clear coat won't do much for it and a colour respray is the only way to go. If you'll be using the truck off road you could always explore the option of a tough paint like raptor etc to give a very tough finish! Thanks for checking out the video!
Good work
Thanks!
Hi , nice clip. I noticed a comment about paint burn.
Could I ask a question?
I'm repairing a small scratch and I
Think I've made a very very small burn in the clear ( using 3000 grit)
The base coat seem to be a slightly different colour to surrounding paint.
Why is this? Is it an illusion?
Will clear correct this discoloration?
Cheers John
Hi John, there are usually two main causes for discolouration ; first of the paint has been exposed to UV rays without the protection of the clear coat for a prolonged period or alternatively if the clear coat has been manually sandes through and the base coat has also been sanded (thinned). It sounds like your situation is the latter. You could still clear over it but unfortunately that won't fully rectify the difference in colour although it may help slightly. Thanks for your comment 👍
can this technique be used for alloy wheels as well?
Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes in theory if you have lacquered wheels and have a flaking patch this same technique should work, just make sure the wheel is spotlessly clean as you don't want to seal in any brake dust etc!
Would you suggest this on a matte car?
Hi Raquel, Thanks for your question. Obviously i can't say for sure about your car, but generally matte finish cars are not clear coated. If you have a matte painted car and its flaking i would imagine its the main colour base thats flaking off. Was your car matte from the factory or is this an aftermarket re-spray (or even a plasti-dip type coat)?
@@JohnnyGetsCash Thankx for your response. It was sprayed matte 2yrs ago. It looks just like your video. Wish i could send u a pic🤦🏾♀️
If you check out my about page on my channel you should be able to send me an email 👍
What kinda clear Coat are you using
Can I ask a question ?? Are you not damaging the underlying paint using the wet and dry sandpaper ?? I want to attempt a repiar myself but seeing you rubbing makes me think of scratching ?? Or is it very light ??
Hi Angela, no worries! When I'm sanding the surrounding flaking clear I'm using very fine sandpaper (kept wet), with very little pressure. I am also feeling with my fingertips where my paper is working and I concentrate on the raised, flaking area rather than the exposed base layer. Of course there will be some minimal contact with the base (this is unavoidable), however given the high grade sandpaper, wetness, lack of pressure used and the awareness of where my paper is working, I can avoid damage to the base coat. I guess a lot of the above just comes down to practice, but this is how I have always approached these repairs and so far it hasnt caused me any issues with the base coat! Thanks for your question.
HELP! How do i fix buffer clear coat burn through?!
Burn through is pain...Machine polishing is quite a feared task for that reason unfortunately. To be honest, if you've burnt through your clear coat (or base coat too), the only proper fix is to respray / blend the affected area as the base / clear has been removed by the polisher so there is no fixing it as such.
5 minutes fix on high speed camera or actual work?
The 5 minutes refers to the length of the video. I start by saying "over the course of the next 5 minutes i will show you how i deal with these issues and make them a little more presentable". Naturally any bodywork repair is going to take longer than 5 minutes due to the time required for paint / clear to cure. Thanks for the comment.
1k clear coat or 2k clear coat? Thank you.
In this video I'm using just bog standard, off the shelf 1k automotive lacquer (from Halfords)
I went to a collision shoo the said the only solution is to take off the clear coat on the entire panel and recoat. Are they just trying to get in my wallet? Why wouldn’t they just do this?
Razor blade will get that glue crap off fast and safely if done carefully
Got a blister from rubbing off the plate tape lol
I guess my thumbs are used to it now, but yes...this is the quickest way to remove old plate tape, but also the quickest way to get yourself a blister!
you need to be very careful doing this , paint on modern cars is VERY thin especially on bumpers etc - its real easy to just sand straight through into the primer - so go very slowly and carefully.....
I can't see the point of taking ages wearing out your fingers rolling off the old adhesive to ensure you don't damage the paint when you are then going to use abrasive paper on it.
Hi Steve, if the adhesive is not removed then it will clog the sandpaper making it ineffective. If you don't want to use your fingers to remove the old adhesive then a mixture of chemicals and scraping will also suffice - however i find the rolling by hand technique a lot faster and more efficient.
Can still see all the sand marks at the end of video
A decal remover wheel would remove the tape in seconds.
You’re right! I’ve since invested in a toffee wheel and it’s great!
Something tells me it’s longer than 5 minutes
End product looked like shit honestly. Sorry mate crap job needed to gradually go to higher grit paper wet sand then heavy compound then finishing compound then something like meguiars rejuvenator then paste wax.