You guys are great. I've gotten so much guidance on how to maintain and repair my Ranger from your sight. Thanks for your willingness to offer your expertise to the public.
Tried this on my 2005 Ford Ranger... seemed to go just like you demonstrate but then the fluid level kept dropping, I would add more only to notice that all the extra I was adding was only filling the overflow tank. The level never stayed UP at the radiator fill neck.
What you say to fill it with....do you use the half 50/50 coolant and and half water?, or are you using half coolant “concentrate” and half distilled water?
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L V6. Is the procedure the same? If not can you point me in the right direction please? Doing a rad change tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Clean the coolant tank.... Pull the hose off next to the cap and run it down into a bucket. Spray tank with waterhose set to jet. Lil drop of dawn, rinse it all out.
Any fluctuating issues with the temperature gauge? I changed the thermostat and bled the system of air like in the video but I used a spill free funnel and I do have heat in the cab but I'm having an issue with the temperature gauge fluctuating from normal operating temp. to cold at acceleration. Any Idea what it could be?
@@michaeljohn8905 Yeah it seems that that's what it's pointing to or it could be just simply be a faulty thermostat. The original was 197° and the one I installed is a 180° Stant offset.
How much fluid is supposed to be in the overflow reservoir? Mine stays pretty empty at all times, but have never had an issue with over heating. I'm planning on changing the fluid, because I've had the truck for 3 years now and not sure when the last time it was done. Just want to make sure I have the proper amount in there.
theres an extra couple liters in there from what i understand. how do i drain these without unplugging hoses? how do i re-circulate coolant back into the block and heater core?
@@guysmith4428 youre gonna have to pop the clamp on the lower hose, flush the block and radiator with your garden hose. Take your air compressor and blast out as much excess water as possible, make sure the system is open to the air as to not blow a gasket or seal out. Disconnect your heater core lines from the water pump housing, and get a male to male barb fitting for temporarily plugging your hose ends together. Flush the core one way through the inlet and outlet, then back flush it from the outlet side towards the inlet side until theres not gunk coming out. I have a siphon wand for my compressor, so ill feed the siphon into the core and suck out the excess water with the siphon hose. From there youre going to want to fill the main system most the way with 50/50 coolant, and then youre going to prime your core with coolant, fill it up into the hoses and then stick then ends together temporarily on the barb fitting keeping out as much air as possible. Fill and burp the system a bit more until you see coolant coming up to your heater core inlet/outlet on the pump. Disconnect the barb fitting and install the hoses onto the pump, and that should help eliminate trapped air in the core without having to start and stop the engine so much. Then fill the system all the way and burp and top off coolant accordingly after doing a few heat cycles. Now there is a built in drain fitting on your radiator, but unfortunately its not positioned anywhere near those few liters of excess coolant are trapped in the water jacket. Iirc there may be a few hidden plugs installed into the water jacket on the block which may aid in draining the system entirely, but i cannot confirm or deny their existence.
Literally spilled out the entire jug of coolant. I did every step and it just kept overflowing until it finally stopped. Filled it to the top and it stayed level. *AIR POCKET STILL THERE AND GURGLES WHEN I TURN OFF HEAT EVERYTIME* I think I need to be at an incline since the heater core is the highest point in the cooling system though my truck was level when I did this as was the demo.
I had the same issue on a 1998 4cyl mt ranger. what do i do if truck is parked behind other cars on level ground? how much do i need to raise front end?
@@guysmith4428 jack it up just enough so its not exactly level and the air should push itself out of the core and into the main system. You could probably just push it up onto some 2x6 planks and that would give you enough of an angle to use physics to your advantage.
+The Leader We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2002 ford ranger v6 4.0 and want to do a flush. I was told that my vehicle holds about 13quarts and that I should add 1 gallon of concentrated coolant, 1 gallon of distilled water and 1 gallon of 50/50 coolant. How true is that? Should I do that mixture or would you recommend another mixture?
+irundc1 Thanks for watching! We do recommend following the procedure which Ford provides, however in most vehicles a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and coolant is the method. You will have to confirm the type of coolant required from Ford to avoid system errors.
If thats what your manufacturer service/overhaul manual recommends by all means follow it. However its more common to see them recommend using 50/50 premixed coolant altogether, or to dilute concentrate to 50/50. Due to your system being an uneven number of gallons the 50/50 gallon and the gallon of pure coolant checks out as being 50/50 towards the end once you add the gallon of distilled water. Theres just more math involved, granted its simple 1:1 ratios.
It likes to belch out the coolant, especially if you got alot of air in the system due to a big project like head gaskets or something. Just crank the heat, keep it running and wait for the level to stay consistent. You might have to undo the cap a few times after as well to relieve it of air, and it will spill then too
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You guys are great. I've gotten so much guidance on how to maintain and repair my Ranger from your sight. Thanks for your willingness to offer your expertise to the public.
+JDBoats89 Thank you!
@@1AAuto I'm grateful as well.
Tried this on my 2005 Ford Ranger... seemed to go just like you demonstrate but then the fluid level kept dropping, I would add more only to notice that all the extra I was adding was only filling the overflow tank. The level never stayed UP at the radiator fill neck.
found this 7 years later ..thanks man !
Thank you sir , just followed your steps and back on the road, I will consider you for parts in the future!!!
+Lucky CR Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Why about the coolant in the engine block? It seems like you just drained the radiator but did not flush the whole system.
So what happens when you turn it on and the coolant just gushes out of the radiator?
What you say to fill it with....do you use the half 50/50 coolant and and half water?, or are you using half coolant “concentrate” and half distilled water?
You can either buy full concentrate and dilute it with distilled water or you can buy a pre-diluted 50/50 mix.
Next up is a serpentine belt video
Great video, perfect and straight to the point!
theres never any coolant in my overflow resevoir. is there always supposedd to be some in there? i never see any in mine
How long should you burp the system? I waited over an hour and never reached operational temp ( 192 oe thermostat brand new)
Many thanks
My 2011 Ford ranger XLT 2.3 4cyl ,don't have a cap opening to fill the radiator? How do I fill the radiator? Tru the reservoir ?..
My 2000 Ford Ranger has a V6 3.0 Flex-fuel and it didn't have a plastic cover under the radiator.
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L V6. Is the procedure the same? If not can you point me in the right direction please? Doing a rad change tomorrow morning. Thanks.
I am looking for info on a 2001 2.3 4 cyl F Ranger, but keep getting this...
Clean the coolant tank.... Pull the hose off next to the cap and run it down into a bucket. Spray tank with waterhose set to jet. Lil drop of dawn, rinse it all out.
+whophead Thanks for the feedback!
What size are those bolts thanks
I did an engine rebuild how much coolent do I need to
Any fluctuating issues with the temperature gauge? I changed the thermostat and bled the system of air like in the video but I used a spill free funnel and I do have heat in the cab but I'm having an issue with the temperature gauge fluctuating from normal operating temp. to cold at acceleration. Any Idea what it could be?
juan's Dawon Maybe your thermostat is not the correct one. Might be overcooling ? That’s my 2 cents. It’s free. 😁
@@michaeljohn8905 Yeah it seems that that's what it's pointing to or it could be just simply be a faulty thermostat. The original was 197° and the one I installed is a 180° Stant offset.
apparently there is an issue with the 99 or 98 2.5l ranger where the temp doesnt read correctly.
So the plastic bolt broke in two this is great now i can't bleed it any ideas ?
What difference does running the heater fan make? LMFAO
To flush the heater core
can you do a how to find and fix a coolant leak, for Chevrolet Traverse 2011 ?
looks like the cab corners were replaced on your ranger?
made my life easy but mine had a twist cap on my rad so it was easy to drain.
Is this the same for a 2000 Ford Explorer v6 SOHC
BrewersArcade yes
My resistor for my blower is not working so my blower only works hi speed. Does it matter if the blower is on hi vs low?
How much fluid is supposed to be in the overflow reservoir? Mine stays pretty empty at all times, but have never had an issue with over heating. I'm planning on changing the fluid, because I've had the truck for 3 years now and not sure when the last time it was done. Just want to make sure I have the proper amount in there.
There should be max/min marks on the tank, also your water pump is/was likely leaking.
What about the block and heater core ?
And over flow , I was asking the same question. As far as I know you don't mix coolants and oils. They work against each other
theres an extra couple liters in there from what i understand. how do i drain these without unplugging hoses? how do i re-circulate coolant back into the block and heater core?
@@guysmith4428 youre gonna have to pop the clamp on the lower hose, flush the block and radiator with your garden hose. Take your air compressor and blast out as much excess water as possible, make sure the system is open to the air as to not blow a gasket or seal out.
Disconnect your heater core lines from the water pump housing, and get a male to male barb fitting for temporarily plugging your hose ends together. Flush the core one way through the inlet and outlet, then back flush it from the outlet side towards the inlet side until theres not gunk coming out. I have a siphon wand for my compressor, so ill feed the siphon into the core and suck out the excess water with the siphon hose.
From there youre going to want to fill the main system most the way with 50/50 coolant, and then youre going to prime your core with coolant, fill it up into the hoses and then stick then ends together temporarily on the barb fitting keeping out as much air as possible. Fill and burp the system a bit more until you see coolant coming up to your heater core inlet/outlet on the pump. Disconnect the barb fitting and install the hoses onto the pump, and that should help eliminate trapped air in the core without having to start and stop the engine so much. Then fill the system all the way and burp and top off coolant accordingly after doing a few heat cycles.
Now there is a built in drain fitting on your radiator, but unfortunately its not positioned anywhere near those few liters of excess coolant are trapped in the water jacket. Iirc there may be a few hidden plugs installed into the water jacket on the block which may aid in draining the system entirely, but i cannot confirm or deny their existence.
I need a video on 2011.
What if I don’t have heat coming out of vents because my blend door is stuck in the air conditioning only. 🐶🤷♂️👀
Literally spilled out the entire jug of coolant. I did every step and it just kept overflowing until it finally stopped. Filled it to the top and it stayed level. *AIR POCKET STILL THERE AND GURGLES WHEN I TURN OFF HEAT EVERYTIME*
I think I need to be at an incline since the heater core is the highest point in the cooling system though my truck was level when I did this as was the demo.
I had the same issue on a 1998 4cyl mt ranger. what do i do if truck is parked behind other cars on level ground? how much do i need to raise front end?
@@guysmith4428 jack it up just enough so its not exactly level and the air should push itself out of the core and into the main system.
You could probably just push it up onto some 2x6 planks and that would give you enough of an angle to use physics to your advantage.
The bolts are 13mm
Mine isnt circulating from the reservoir
How to do it if you have a 98 Ford F-150 with a degas bottle?
What if your heater core is bypassed ?
Pls help 1a auto 💀
What is squeaking when the engine was running?
A belt somewhere probably
Is this the same on 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 vflex engine
+The Leader We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Alright then thats 50% coolant 50% destiled water and we do this with the hot air on on the low blow configuraation.,
Informative video but your really heavy upspeak made me crazy! Wow!
It’s not going into the reservoir? It’s totally empty… bit nervous as to why it’s not “expanded”’ into it? Hmm
I have a 2002 ford ranger v6 4.0 and want to do a flush. I was told that my vehicle holds about 13quarts and that I should add 1 gallon of concentrated coolant, 1 gallon of distilled water and 1 gallon of 50/50 coolant. How true is that? Should I do that mixture or would you recommend another mixture?
+irundc1 Thanks for watching! We do recommend following the procedure which Ford provides, however in most vehicles a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and coolant is the method. You will have to confirm the type of coolant required from Ford to avoid system errors.
If thats what your manufacturer service/overhaul manual recommends by all means follow it.
However its more common to see them recommend using 50/50 premixed coolant altogether, or to dilute concentrate to 50/50. Due to your system being an uneven number of gallons the 50/50 gallon and the gallon of pure coolant checks out as being 50/50 towards the end once you add the gallon of distilled water.
Theres just more math involved, granted its simple 1:1 ratios.
My 2002 ranger has a blow radiator need new radiator , leaks .
no where did it show any distilled water added to any of this
Whats that squeaking sound 🤔 my ranger makes the same noise.
Same! Did you ever find out what the cause was?
Are you also supposed to put antifreeze in it?
😂🤣😂
Oh wait wear you serious?
Antifreeze is coolant.
De quita con la mano
At 4:10 into the video what’s making that noise that I can correct on my truck
What about the block drain plug? That’s not a complete change.
This did not work out as easy as they showed, coolant came right up out of the funnel and all over.
Gotta be smarter than the funnel
LOL
@@hotpocket8624 be one with the funnel.. be the funnel
It likes to belch out the coolant, especially if you got alot of air in the system due to a big project like head gaskets or something. Just crank the heat, keep it running and wait for the level to stay consistent. You might have to undo the cap a few times after as well to relieve it of air, and it will spill then too
Just put the radiator cap back on when it starts spilling, run the engine for 15 minutes, let it cool down for a couple hours and add more.