I'm a DIY big time female. I have to say your video is the most professional, informative, and basically simple video I have found so far. I replaced the thermostat on a friend's Ford Escape last night and for the first time ever I can't get heat and I'm overheating. I've replaced many thermostats and haven't ran into this before. So I turn to You tube after few videos of men in chopped up tee shirts and babbling nonsense I find your video. Very professional looking and so very informative. I rushed out tried it. After running 3 cycles I had heat and after a 15 minute drive no overheating!! Thank you so much for your video and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much. In my 2010 fusion SE 2.5 gas my water pump started leaking while I was on the highway. I eventually got it home using 7 gal of water over the course of 2 hours. I changed the water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt. It was so much work for me at home. I was finally done. Exhausted. Glad it was done. I left to test it. Overheated. I was so angry. Eventually got back home. Searched google and found this video and tried out your process AND IT WORKED! Thank the lord!! You are a life saver. I can’t thank you enough.
Your 6 year old video paid off for me. Replaced the radiator in my 2017 F150 5.0L yesterday and ran into the no heat issue when I was done. I tried this method this morning and it seems to have fixed the problem. I wouldn't have thought to do this on my own so I'm very glad you shared it with us.
A half a million people watched this video and only 4k liked it. This guy is saving you tons of money. Wouldn't kill you guys to hit the like button and help him make money
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know a way to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Westley Philip I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Man I gotta thank you so much. Used this video here when doing coolant service on my wife’s 2014 flex with the 3.5 non turbo. Thanks to this and the tune up video as well as the video on the different types of motorcraft coolant things were a absolute breeze and I hate working on cars but with your info I was able to update the coolant to the new OAT yellow and followed your instructions and it wasn’t bad at all. Let me say this to re enforce your Motorcraft parts only statement. I got some counterfeit fuel filters for my power stroke and just as soon as I installed them the truck would not start or run. Fuel starvation. Costly lesson learned when i had to go buy Motorcraft brand filters at autozone at 100 bucks. Won’t ever do that again. Thanks Ford God
This helped tremendously. I had a friend who had someone change the lower radiator hose because the car was overheating. Turned out it was a bad water pump, but there was a ton of air in the system. A shop told her it was a bad head gasket and wanted 3k to change without even seeing it. I changed the water pump and bled the system. It fixed the problem after a few times of cycling the vehicle. Thanks for the videos.
Good thing they make a kit to put into the top of the water box u fil it with blue fluid and hook it to a vacuum line and if said blue liquid changes to a yellow green color it is in fact a bad head gasket
Sounds almost close to my issue . Everything been replaced in last 2 years but the pump . Garage have done loads of checks getting ut tomorrow . I had temp high after taking Mrs to work and coolant had sprayed from overflow onto engine ....its going back in once cooled though .... it didn't lose much as I bought some more to top up . Garage say its flowing etc its odd . Dealers method is rev once warm 2500 revs 5 mins then 3000 revs 5 seconds ..whether the garage done if that way I don't know . Rad new 2 years ago. New coolant sensor /term under a year ago ..New cap hg also hg was done say June or just before last year can't recall exactly . They 1st thought air pocket then cap . I'm miffed
I cant even begin to explain how much this video helped me out. I just replaced the thermostat on an 09 ford focus and it felt like I was running into one problem after the other. Such a pain to replace these things on these cars especially if you're a big guy. Anyway, I finally got the new thermostat in and (as its the first time I've replaced one before I didn't know you had to bleed the cooling system of air) the engine was overheating. I wasn't getting any hot air, the engine wasn't cooling down, and as I was about to just take it to a shop, I found this video, did as you said, and after 15 minutes or so, I started feeling heat out of the vents at idle, the engine was no longer overheating, and after I disconnected the battery (due to some corrosion) the check engine light went off. The car is once again in perfect working order and I can go get this thing smogged. Thanks for the help!
I'm having this issue now. Girlfriends Fusion belt serpentine belt broke or came off (never found the belt) so replaced it and the car started overheating and no heat so I thought maybe the thermostat crapped out at the same time so changed it and still no heat and overheating plus coolant not going down in the overflow tank even though it all emptied out when I changed the thermostat. Going to try this in the morning, would do it now but the car is at AutoZone, lol. Was about to replace the water pump thinking maybe the belt issue caused an issue with that. Up until the belt issue the car had no heat or overheating issue.
Thank you! This process cleared some of the air but not enough to totally fix this problem with my 2008 escape after I replaced the thermostat. Then I thought, I need to get my radiator higher than the rest of the suv. I pulled it up on a very steep grade, tried the process one more time. Problem fixed!
Did you have a Fusion as well? I have that lovely waterfall sound upon starting. Did you overheat any? I lose heat at idle/low speeds and overheat. When driven, heat goes down and I have heat again. This car is the death of me.
@theowlsofouterheaven did u ever get it fixed? What did u do? I have a fusion 1.5L that is starting to make a water sloshing noise when I start and turn off my car. Like right behind my dash.. solution?
You wouldn’t believe how many times you have helped me out! Just replaced the water pump on my 2009 Escape with a 3.0L. Used this method and it worked so quickly I couldn’t believe it! Thanks once again for your channel!
Just ran into this problem after a 2.5L swap. Used a similar procedure. Run at 2500 for 30 secs then 3500 for 30 secs. Rest. Repeat until overheating stops and heater is operating. Your procedure is surely the best way to go though. Just sharing my experience. Thanks for sharing this Brian!
This is actually a procedure listed in one of the Ford workshop manuals I can attest it has worked very well for me in the past either way the idea is that continuous push.
Okay this literally saved me a crap ton of money! i recently lost heat to my car and this method saved my butt! thank you so much for this information.
When I bought my new-to-me 2008 Escape 3.0 V6, I changed all the fluids because I didn't know the history of type and frequency of changes. This included having my local mechanic friend use a professional coolant flush machine which transfers the new coolant in while the old coolant is discharging. I've done this with other vehicles when I was changing coolant of different colors. I never, ever mix colors! Seeing this video assures me that I did the right thing. I had absolutely no problems with the heater temperature, engine temperature or losing coolant level in the reservoir. Yes, it was a little expensive, but well worth it. Thank you for this video!
Just did a complete timing job on my 14 Explorer Sport. Watched many of your videos on the 3.5l. I have to say we all appreciate the videos! Keep up the great work.
I have watched at least 10 videos on how to get this air out of my ‘06 Jeep Commander 4.7L and this one WORKED! I’ve spent a handful of hours trying to fix it and here you are, fixing the problem in 5 minutes. Thank you so much, seriously. You now have a new subscriber, I really do appreciate this.
Started hearing a sloshing noise and research led me here. Bingo, perfect instructions. Worked like a champ! Thanks bud. Your videos are are saving me 1000s keeping my truck running. Done the intercooler drill, throttle body replacement, coolant purge and a few upgrades I wanted all with your help. Next up, brakes and suspension. Feel pretty good about those, but I'll be checking back for tips and tricks before I start.
I've had a heating problem for 5 years on my 06 Ford F150 and I seen this and then I did this read my motor up and all this and it worked I have heat like I've never had before incredible
You solved my problem. I was getting no heat at all. I thought the de-gas bottle was full because I just looked at it and think it's full. When I removed the cap I found out that the antifreeze just stained the bottle like red sauce in Tupperware . It was bone dry. So I followed your steps and I had to keep putting in antifreeze in it to keep it above the fill line. Now I have heat at idle, and while driving. Thanks man your the best!!!!
It took many times on a steep driveway. But it worked! The vacuum system would be the best way but if ur on a budget this does work. It took me about 10 cycles of doing this. Getting that sloshing thru the heater core to go away. I tried everyrhing after changing thermostat. Thanks man.
Thanks for the video. Wife's 2012 escape was overheating. Replaced thermostat and purged the air from system with your technique. Runs fine now without overheating.
Been tackling tons of leaks in my ranger, done head gaskets and timing cover.. It's been -40 c here some weeks, always used this method, had heat back in 10min.. Worked every time without fail. Thank you for your tips & tricks!
Just did stepmoms 2010 2.5 Fusion, cyl head coolant outlet fitting, and did the valve cover gasket set as well. Watched vids of yours for both of these jobs. Moving the wiring harness, for cover job, and this bleeding vid were awesome for the coolant repair... I did use the bleeder fitting, on the coolant outlet block, it did seem to remove quite a bit air itself... That start and stop, and then running the RPM up to 3500, is the the bomb !!!! God bless brother....
This a method that I have used for many years and mainly it works well. I know some systems do need to be vaccumed to get at good result but I am not a fan of the process as it can cause issues with hoses. I would like to add that it is best to not have the coolant pressure cap down tight if the engine is cold as this allows the system to have an area of lower pressure to which the air can move to and escape. As the engine warms up the pressure cap will have to be tighten so coolant is not forced away from hot parts by steam pressure. But slowly release any pressure once the engine is stopped, without fully removing the pressure cap. Always wise find out how far you can unscrew the cap for it not to hold pressure while the system is cold.
Wow! For the 1st time ever. After replacing the thermostat in my daughters 05 Ford 500 I experienced this. No heat and over heating. I figured it might be air but really didn't know what else to do to get it out. This worked perfectly. Thanks for sharing Ford tec!😀
Brilliant video, it resolved my cold air problem, but i would say that i waited 2 to 3 mins after 3500rpm blasts as i noticed the air came back into the expansion tank way after 1 min, and also i had to repeat the process 7 times! But i still fully did it, so there is no limit on how many times are needed in repeating this. Just do it till its done! But great advice in general and a great video, well done.
I can hardly believe this worked, it was so neat to watch the bubbles coming up in the overflow tank. I just repeated until that stopped, no more overheating thank you!
Once I get heat ive never had a problem afterwards. That being said I have spent a lot of time struggling with tougher cooling systems. As always your suggested methods improve my ability to work on cars. Many thanks and keep up the good work.
Very well done and informative. Was stumped on why I was overheating after a t-stat replacement and flush of my 04 Expy. Tried EVERYTHING; draining and refilling, burping with the front end elevated on ramps, pulling the new tstat because I thought it was bad, etc. Saw this method and 15 mins later it was back to normal, no overheating, cabin heat was working great. Thanks again!
Wow. I've looked for some bleeder point and was almost ready to take my heater core loose and back flow to clean it out. I was getting decent heat at fast idle and driving, but not like before. That's when I realized the core was clean but not getting the flow through it. This tip to bleed worked great for me. Thanks man. I've gotta watch more if your videos.
Was loosing my mind with my car overheating outta nowhere. After watching numerous videos I came across yours. I did process of elimination because I changed a few parts including coolant temp sensor and cylinder head temperature sensor. So since I knew those were brand new and I had no issues with my blower heater motor I tried this. Dude all it took me was 5 minutes, perfect. My heating system is back on point. Thanks bud.
See I'm thinking I need to do this or similar the dealers recommended method. 5 mins @ 2500 revs then 3k revs for 5 seconds . Garage can't find anything wrong ..New cap etc . Most parts renewed in recent months..had coolant spray from overflow onto engine . Dash coolant temp high . Could still be an air pocket they've not sorted properly
Just watched video, after a "no heat" situation swapped out 12 year old thermostat and attempted to "burp" system, failed miserably, watched this video and followed steps and voila we have heat! thanks!
This video saved my bacon on an '02 Escape 3.0. This method worked where the spillproof funnel and airlift vacuum fill tool failed miserably. Brian, you are awesome. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with your easy-to-understand videos!
Just did this to my 2015 ford explorer and it worked perfectly!! Had to do it like 6 or 7 times but hey it worked!! Changed the upper coolant hose and it was still over heating so my mechanic suggested me this video to watch so I can do it and it worked perfect🙏🏽🤝🏽💯 thank you so much for the info bro…subscribed! 🔔🔔
I have a 2011 Ford explorer and the twmp gauge goes crazy like I'm over heating even when I just start the car. Only goes crazy when I drive. I think I have air in the system. Did yours do the same thing?
Once again you SIR are a genius. Thank you so much. This happened when my wife's car had a slip in the serpentine belt and somehow got air in the system. After I changed the belt I couldn't find the reason it was overheating. Did this burp method 5xs and its back to normal. Thanks for all you do.
Man, thank you so much! My wife overheated her f150 last year, filled the reservoir and all was well until it started getting cold a few weeks ago. We flushed the coolant with water for a few hours a night for 3 nights after work (I'm embarrassed to admit the color of the water, thought that was the problem for sure). When it started to come out clean we used commercial flush/cleaner, I tore into the dash after the blend door, it worked fine, then I stumbled upon your video. 10 minutes and I'm sweating in the cab. I don't regret flushing the coolant, but man I'm glad I saw this video before I dug any deeper into the interior. Thanks a million.
Man, thank you SO much for this trick! My 2008 Ford Escape had never had an overheating problem, and then a bad connection led to the fans not running. Next thing I know, my temp gauge is pinning to the Big Bad Red "H", and no cabin heat. I got the fans going, but that only lowered the heat a little bit, and it sometimes pinged back up to Red. I just happened upon your video on a Ford forum and tried the procedure you describe. After 2 cycles, the temp gauge was back to mid-range and the cabin air was blowing hot, hot, hot! I'm stayin' wired to your channel, dude! Thank you!
Thank you so much you were very thorough and easy to understand for a 40 something yr old woman who just replaced the radiator in my 2010 Ford fusion! Thanks to an 8 pt buck than jumped off a bank and landed in front of my car! I was only going 35 so it didn't even knock him down! But the front of my car got demolished! Thank you and I will definitely recommend at every opportunity in the future! Good job!
Thank You!! I just did a timing set on a 5.4 3v and could not get any cabin heat after. You're videos are so professional and to the point, unlike the rest. Thank you again for putting the time in.
This process worked perfectly after changing all of the hoses and thermostat on my 2009 Escape 3.0.V6. Thank you! Still, I may invest in the cooling system evacuation tool. That would save some time.
This worked for our 2010 Mercury Mariner V6. With the engine completely cold the coolant level was way below the cold fill range and we don't know why. Filled it about 1" above max cold fill as suggested and ran 4 cycles. After the first two cycles there was a lot of air hissing out when the cap was removed. A lot less after the third cycle and nothing audible after the forth. There is a ton of heat coming out now. No maintenance was done on the vehicle. It just started not putting heat into the cabin intermittently. Thanks a lot for the video.
Thank you SO VERY MUCH for this quick and easy fix. I had resigned myself to a very cold Winter w a HFreight plug in defroster. I'm not a slouch w tools but, by no means, a mechanic and your video helped me still love my '98 Expedition. You're a good man, doing good work, and I thank you.
Much to my frustration, I also couldn't get my 2.5L fusion to produce heat after replacing a thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner. I'd read the comment of someone else having to do it 5 times. I had to do it multiple times as well. And eventually it worked out. Thanks to you for the video and for people commenting their experiences. saved myself a lot of money.
After the 2nd iteration of doing the RPMs I’m sitting in my car and just got heat back. Love your videos man thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world 🙏🏽
My hubby went a week in his F150 truck without heat. He had to replace the heater core on it first, then no heat. I watched your video & had to give it a try, IT TRUELY WORKED..... Thank you so much for sharing this with us.....
Thank you for this video. My 2012 fusion has been making a noise from the heater core for 4 years since I had a local shop do a system flush. Just did one myself again this weekend and , with the help of this video, got it to stop! Had to do about 6 rpm cycles, but it worked.
Man you just saved me today. Had a coolant hose break thought it got to hot but never over heated. No heat then runs hot. Did this trick it burped had to add over a gallon when all said and done. Heat is hot temp is back to normal. Thanks man!
Did you hear bubbles when you first cranked your car? I hear that on mine and I lose heat and temp gauge starts spiking. I've tried literally everything at this point to fix this car. I'm going to try this tomorrow!
Thank you bro it’s working on my 2010 Ford Focus se 4 cylinder engine after I change the water heater hose on it it’s was leaking the car start to overheating I thought my thermostat was gone then I come up to your video I did the exact same thing you said on your video and it’s work now I have heat on my car no more overheating thank you bro I really appreciate God bless .
This procedure would have saved my 2008 Taurus X! I learned about the procedure after I experienced so much violent overheating issues that it blew out the water pump main seal on my X. My X was running fine, but at 250K I thought it would be a good idea to flush my cooling system for “preventive” maintenance. So I let Jiffy Lube do it and they (nor I) knew the system had to be purged properly. I experienced nothing but intermittent overheating issues for months afterwards because I didn’t know about this procedure. Finally got so violent that the pressure blew out water pump seal. At that point I had 292K on the car and ended up donating my beloved car to DAV!
When all else has failed to completely purge air from a cooling system, drive in 1st and 2nd gear in a very hilly suburban area. Keeping the revs anywhere from 3000-5000 rpm while driving up and down steep hills especially while cornering has worked for me to get out that last bit of air and stop the gurgling noise. I find 10 minutes of this driving does the trick. Just keep an eye on your temperature gauge to be safe.
I hit like because he totally helped me burp my truck using a really easy method. We swapped out the blend door acuator and after struggling with those 3 screws with almost zero space around them and still not having any heat was frustrating to say the least! After 2 rounds of burping, the heat is coming on....hoping it'll get hotter with a couple more rounds?!!! Thank you so much!
This is how the ford dealer manual suggests bleeding the system in my 2012 focus. It works really well, I could actually see the air bubbles coming out the coolant bottle. Good tip
@@untraditionalministries4588 it was over a year ago so I can't even remember. I followed the Ford manual verbatim and it worked quite well on my focus.
Your videos have been great helping me track down my coolant leak on f150 Y pipe. This one also is a gem. You also reply to comments. God bless neighbor 👍
Thanks, Bryan. I wish I had found this video before changing the thermostat in 35* weather. I had better luck eliminating trapped air by putting the front of the car on ramps. The added angle seemed to help. Thanks again, sir.
Exactly the method I use. It seems simple but works really well. I have an AirLift too, but never use it. I see lots of guys jack up the front end, use the Lisle rad funnel, etc.
Have to admit, I was skeptical, as my air pocket was lodged in the rear heater core of a Toyota Sienna van. But I was out of options - I purged per the procedure in the manual, no luck. I used this procedure, had rear heat again. Thank you!
Ford edge had thermostat replaced by husband...heat blows for 10 secs then cold.... Did what you suggested about 5 times... Coolant level dropped and got heat going but blows HOT then warm but stays warm consistently but won't stay hot consistently.... Should I repeat the steps.... This is definitely better than what was going on yesterday!
🛠 🏆 5-star DIY video. This is how you make a great, useful, and easy-to-follow car maintenance video: tripod-mounted camera, no distracting background music, and methodical explanation every step of the way. When I hear shops charging $200-300 for a coolant flush on the Mazda3 2.3 engine I have to laugh. This is not a hard maintenance item if you follow this video. I've liked and learned from watching all FordTechMakuloco videos.
Did you have heat coming out of vents? My 2015 3.5 ecoboost gets a bit hot when driving uphill, but I do have heat coming out of vents . Could air in system be my problem? My thermostrat was bad, I changed it, truck still gets uncomfortably hot driving uphill
I've had my car for a little over three years and it has been running perfectly. I haven't had any major repairs - I just get my oil changed on time. The oil change guy suggested I get a coolant flush, so I did - and only then did I start experiencing issues that my car never had before. Every time I went to fuel up my car I would have starting issues, but I would just crank the car for a little while until it finally started up. After this initial issue at the pump, my car would start everywhere else without any problems - until my next fill up. Then the same problem would repeat all over again. I was told it was the purge valve that needs to be replaced, and I believe it, but I can't help thinking that it has something to do with the coolant flush that was just done. I was basically told that there wasn't a reasonable connection between the coolant flush and my car's issue - and yet it is quite a coincidence to me. Is there any way a coolant flush could cause other such issues with vapors...etc..?
Thank you so much! I have the 2.5 escape and replaced the radiator, water punk, thermostat and temp sensor and it was overheating with no heat I was ready to take it in but then watched this video and the trick totally worked! Thank you 👍👌 Stay Great!!!
I have a 2010 fusion with a 2.5 and I had to replace the thermostat, all I did when I refilled it was open the vent tube poured the coolant back in and no problems, no overheat and plenty of heat at the vents.
It sounds like this problem is caused by the fact that the top of the heater core is higher than the degas bottle so air is being trapped up there. As such you could simply remove the top hose from the heater core and then plug a funnel into the hose and pour more coolant down into the engine until the coolant just starts to come back out of the open fitting of the heater core. Then just reconnect the hose to the core and all the air would be gone. Basically what you'd be doing is filling the system at its true high point instead of the degas bottle so all the air would have to come out.
Yes very much so as I explained in the beginning of the video allot of times it is at the highest point. The problem with the method you are describing though is you will still be introducing air into the system by the hose you disconnected creating a bigger problem because that air would eventually circulate through and get trapped again. Same thing with the reverse cooling systems air can be trapped at various places and this is the best way to get them out short of using the vacuum fill tool.
I disagree. Once the cooling system is completely full of liquid up to the highest point no additional air can enter into the system through there. It's the same thing as in older cars if you take the radiator cap off when the radiator is full. Even though the cap is off no air will enter the system if it's already full up to the top and holding coolant. The way air enters the cooling system during servicing is that draining the coolant out of the bottom draws in fresh air from the outside to replace the missing liquid. Typically the replacement air enters the cooling system through the open fill point located somewhere near the top. So as long as the cooling system is closed down below and its full of coolant up to its highest point then having it opened only at the highest point will not let any air in. Therefore, if the cooling system is being filled through the disconnected heater hose the engine and cooling system will gradually fill and the coolant level will rise and the air will be forced out. Eventually the heater core will also fill until excess coolant will start to come out through the open tube. At that point the entire system including the heater core will be full because most of the air will have already been purged out and then you can reconnect the hose and close the system. Any small amounts of air still trapped anywhere in the system will eventually purge out once the coolant begins to circulate. Eventually it will all end up in the degas bottle. Filling this type of system through the heater hose is probably faster and easier than using the vacuum method or cyclically racing and stopping the engine to purge out the air. This is because it will immediately purge most of the air from the engine and the rest of the cooling system before you even start the engine.
Hi I just flushed heater core that was clogged and had no heat at all. After de clogging it. I have heat only in city driving, highway it's not hot as it should be. What do u suggest please?
I agree with Alyx! I just did this tonight on my 2013 f150 and it worked and got me and me and my kids heat back in our truck without me having to take it in and get mansplained to and probably get robbed for replacing a heater core or flushing the system... THANK YOU!! Yall give this man a like and a share!!
Thanks so much for this video! I had a coolant leak from my coolant pump so I replaced it and I replaced my thermostat at the same time. I cleaned and flushed my system in this process as well. My auto maintenance experience is very little so replacing those two parts was huge for me. However I finished and it was still overheating and I became very discouraged. I was just about to give up and take it into a mechanic when I watched this video, followed it to a T, and viola it worked. Thanks so much for the help! Please keep up the great work!
Thumb this video up Thank you thank you thank you Fixed my Ford Fusion EB! Took a few tries, but no longer has the washing splashing water sound while the car is off I was on the way to the mechanic to donate money for nothing
Thanks, I had to replace my thermostat in my 2013 Ford F-150. Afterwards, I topped off my coolant and thought i was good. Then I had cold air at stops and idle. And would overheat for a few minutes then be ok. This seems to have done the trick. Great tip/video.
Massive thanks for this and all your videos! I just changed the coolant on a new to me 2018 F-150. Was blowing cold air and i was thinking i just wrecked the truck i had worked so hard to get. Followed your procedure this morning and fixed!!!
Thanks! It worked for me. It was not working too good….Then I parked my car at a ramp where the front of the engine was lower than everything else and it helped push the air bubble out.
I have a 2012 Fusion and I could hear bubbles going through something when I would start the car plus the overheating and lack of heat. Did this trick four times and I no longer hear the bubbles and the heat is back at full strength at idle!! Thanks so much for posting a very helpful video!
Did this fix hold up? Was your car a 4cylinder SE? I have a 2010 SE and hear bubbles when cranking too. Overheats at idle and loses heat unless it's driven about 50mph then the temp goes down. Did you remove the cap any when revving?
Good video's you make. I tried this way on my 2017 Explorer XLT 3.5 liter, and it didn't work. The coolant for whatever reason would not flow with the cap on, and the Heater running. I took the coolant bottle cap off instead, and let it idle for about 20 minutes, occasionally revving the engine to 2000 RPM's, and then I could see big air bubbles rising too the top. Squeezing the hose helped as well. Point is I did it differently, and it worked. I still don't know why the way Ford said to bleed it didn't work, but oh well.
I have fixed so many things on my vehicles and been able to speak technically with my service writer at the Lincoln Dealership as a result of all of your awesome videos. I asked him about the oil catch can for the 3.5twin turbo eco boost in my 2013 lincoln MKT and he says they have never installed one an any Lincolns with eco boost. My tech encourages me to use good gas and go for an Italian tune up after it gets good and warm. This should keep the chemicals and oil burning off and said that the tuning on the trucks version of the same engine is tuned a bit different. My ecoboost is a powerhouse now after they cleaned the intake with a 3 part cleannig system and reprogrammed the ecm.
Just want to thank you for your help. This worked perfectly for me. After changing water pump and thermostat I had no cabin heat. Used your technique and I'm cruising warm and more importantly defrosted.
I’ve been watching your videos for years and you have helped me with several projects, from drain and fills of my CD4E to brake jobs. I recently purchased a beater F150 for truck things and could NOT get heat. I made sure the blend door was working and a few other things. This video did it! The vehicle sat for a year or so and it must have had an air bubble after some repairs. Thank you so much!
Often this issue is caused by not properly bleeding the system when refilling coolant after a drain. The Escape has a self-bleed system but you still need to make sure the heater core is wide open the first time around and taking these steps before taking it back on the road.
Thank you so much. My 2014 Ford Taurus was very low on coolant and had no heat. I filled the resevoir but still had no no heat at all even while driving. I came across this video and did the the cold then hot reving for 30 seconds each and now the heater is working perfectly again!
Ford Tech Makuloco have you ever tested the water pump for flow rate and ability to push coolant up a hill? The man that gave us the 4 cycle internal combustion engine established that before an engine can be tuned step 1 is to establish a coolant flow rate of 10 liters per minute at 500rpm. The pump should also be able to push the coolant known as head pressure at least 50 feet. The pressure is so the pump can push the coolant through the restrictive passages that car and truck cooling systems have. A good way to test if an engines pump is up to the minimum standard is to disconnect the heater hoses run them into a bucket of coolant then start the engine and bleed the system, then remove the flow hose and stop watch the flow into a 1 liter container. Thanks for your great channel. Darryl
And how would a mechanic fix pressure and flow rate? These things are built into the design and barring a cooling system obstruction not serviceable characteristics.
Look at what makes a pump a pump. Impeller design impeller clearance to wiping face and impeller blade shape. Cavitation is one of the enemies of pumps and especially engines as it introduces bubbles and bubbles mean troubles. Start testing what you have and then look at a proper pump used in industry and domestic purposes.
***** Like I said, all elements of the design phase. Nothing serviceable by a field technician. "Bubbles"...You mean air bubbles in a sealed pressurized system that should be void of air?
Yes, after many hours testing water pumps especially with a tin impeller, we saw bubbles due to cavitation. We also found that some coolant suppliers were adding detergent to their product which of course promotes bubbles.
I'm a DIY big time female. I have to say your video is the most professional, informative, and basically simple video I have found so far. I replaced the thermostat on a friend's Ford Escape last night and for the first time ever I can't get heat and I'm overheating. I've replaced many thermostats and haven't ran into this before. So I turn to You tube after few videos of men in chopped up tee shirts and babbling nonsense I find your video. Very professional looking and so very informative. I rushed out tried it. After running 3 cycles I had heat and after a 15 minute drive no overheating!!
Thank you so much for your video and sharing your knowledge.
Sweet!
Thank you so much. In my 2010 fusion SE 2.5 gas my water pump started leaking while I was on the highway. I eventually got it home using 7 gal of water over the course of 2 hours. I changed the water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt. It was so much work for me at home. I was finally done. Exhausted. Glad it was done. I left to test it. Overheated. I was so angry. Eventually got back home. Searched google and found this video and tried out your process AND IT WORKED! Thank the lord!! You are a life saver. I can’t thank you enough.
Your 6 year old video paid off for me. Replaced the radiator in my 2017 F150 5.0L yesterday and ran into the no heat issue when I was done. I tried this method this morning and it seems to have fixed the problem. I wouldn't have thought to do this on my own so I'm very glad you shared it with us.
A half a million people watched this video and only 4k liked it. This guy is saving you tons of money. Wouldn't kill you guys to hit the like button and help him make money
That’s just 50k people watching it 10 times while doing the job lol
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know a way to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Waylon Peyton instablaster :)
@Westley Philip I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Westley Philip It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
Man I gotta thank you so much. Used this video here when doing coolant service on my wife’s 2014 flex with the 3.5 non turbo. Thanks to this and the tune up video as well as the video on the different types of motorcraft coolant things were a absolute breeze and I hate working on cars but with your info I was able to update the coolant to the new OAT yellow and followed your instructions and it wasn’t bad at all. Let me say this to re enforce your Motorcraft parts only statement. I got some counterfeit fuel filters for my power stroke and just as soon as I installed them the truck would not start or run. Fuel starvation. Costly lesson learned when i had to go buy Motorcraft brand filters at autozone at 100 bucks. Won’t ever do that again. Thanks Ford God
This helped tremendously. I had a friend who had someone change the lower radiator hose because the car was overheating. Turned out it was a bad water pump, but there was a ton of air in the system. A shop told her it was a bad head gasket and wanted 3k to change without even seeing it. I changed the water pump and bled the system. It fixed the problem after a few times of cycling the vehicle. Thanks for the videos.
Good thing they make a kit to put into the top of the water box u fil it with blue fluid and hook it to a vacuum line and if said blue liquid changes to a yellow green color it is in fact a bad head gasket
Sounds almost close to my issue . Everything been replaced in last 2 years but the pump . Garage have done loads of checks getting ut tomorrow . I had temp high after taking Mrs to work and coolant had sprayed from overflow onto engine ....its going back in once cooled though .... it didn't lose much as I bought some more to top up . Garage say its flowing etc its odd . Dealers method is rev once warm 2500 revs 5 mins then 3000 revs 5 seconds ..whether the garage done if that way I don't know .
Rad new 2 years ago. New coolant sensor /term under a year ago ..New cap hg also hg was done say June or just before last year can't recall exactly . They 1st thought air pocket then cap . I'm miffed
I cant even begin to explain how much this video helped me out. I just replaced the thermostat on an 09 ford focus and it felt like I was running into one problem after the other. Such a pain to replace these things on these cars especially if you're a big guy. Anyway, I finally got the new thermostat in and (as its the first time I've replaced one before I didn't know you had to bleed the cooling system of air) the engine was overheating. I wasn't getting any hot air, the engine wasn't cooling down, and as I was about to just take it to a shop, I found this video, did as you said, and after 15 minutes or so, I started feeling heat out of the vents at idle, the engine was no longer overheating, and after I disconnected the battery (due to some corrosion) the check engine light went off. The car is once again in perfect working order and I can go get this thing smogged. Thanks for the help!
I'm having this issue now. Girlfriends Fusion belt serpentine belt broke or came off (never found the belt) so replaced it and the car started overheating and no heat so I thought maybe the thermostat crapped out at the same time so changed it and still no heat and overheating plus coolant not going down in the overflow tank even though it all emptied out when I changed the thermostat. Going to try this in the morning, would do it now but the car is at AutoZone, lol. Was about to replace the water pump thinking maybe the belt issue caused an issue with that. Up until the belt issue the car had no heat or overheating issue.
@@darrellsykes7746 did it work ?
@@kevinhancock4064 yes it did. It took me about an hour but it did start working. This video was a life saver lol
@Darrell Sykes trays fab I have heat bit yhe overheating is my issue still could be air pockets though
Thank you! This process cleared some of the air but not enough to totally fix this problem with my 2008 escape after I replaced the thermostat. Then I thought, I need to get my radiator higher than the rest of the suv. I pulled it up on a very steep grade, tried the process one more time. Problem fixed!
Lived with a water fall sound in the new car about a year. Dealer couldn't fix it either. Your method fixed it like a charm. Thank you.
Did you have a Fusion as well? I have that lovely waterfall sound upon starting. Did you overheat any? I lose heat at idle/low speeds and overheat. When driven, heat goes down and I have heat again. This car is the death of me.
@theowlsofouterheaven did u ever get it fixed? What did u do? I have a fusion 1.5L that is starting to make a water sloshing noise when I start and turn off my car. Like right behind my dash.. solution?
You wouldn’t believe how many times you have helped me out! Just replaced the water pump on my 2009 Escape with a 3.0L. Used this method and it worked so quickly I couldn’t believe it! Thanks once again for your channel!
Did you have a loud noise when the engine was on, on the driver side after replacing the water pump?
@@We.do.not.scissor no
Just ran into this problem after a 2.5L swap. Used a similar procedure. Run at 2500 for 30 secs then 3500 for 30 secs. Rest. Repeat until overheating stops and heater is operating. Your procedure is surely the best way to go though. Just sharing my experience. Thanks for sharing this Brian!
This is actually a procedure listed in one of the Ford workshop manuals I can attest it has worked very well for me in the past either way the idea is that continuous push.
I drove around all fall and winter... until february freezing...
15 minuets later... I had lots of heat
THANK YOU...
Okay this literally saved me a crap ton of money! i recently lost heat to my car and this method saved my butt! thank you so much for this information.
When I bought my new-to-me 2008 Escape 3.0 V6, I changed all the fluids because I didn't know the history of type and frequency of changes. This included having my local mechanic friend use a professional coolant flush machine which transfers the new coolant in while the old coolant is discharging. I've done this with other vehicles when I was changing coolant of different colors. I never, ever mix colors!
Seeing this video assures me that I did the right thing. I had absolutely no problems with the heater temperature, engine temperature or losing coolant level in the reservoir.
Yes, it was a little expensive, but well worth it.
Thank you for this video!
Just did a complete timing job on my 14 Explorer Sport. Watched many of your videos on the 3.5l. I have to say we all appreciate the videos! Keep up the great work.
I have watched at least 10 videos on how to get this air out of my ‘06 Jeep Commander 4.7L and this one WORKED! I’ve spent a handful of hours trying to fix it and here you are, fixing the problem in 5 minutes. Thank you so much, seriously. You now have a new subscriber, I really do appreciate this.
Started hearing a sloshing noise and research led me here. Bingo, perfect instructions. Worked like a champ! Thanks bud. Your videos are are saving me 1000s keeping my truck running. Done the intercooler drill, throttle body replacement, coolant purge and a few upgrades I wanted all with your help. Next up, brakes and suspension. Feel pretty good about those, but I'll be checking back for tips and tricks before I start.
Completely fixed an ongoing issue. You’re wonderful and I highly recommend this channel. Simple and to the point
I've had a heating problem for 5 years on my 06 Ford F150 and I seen this and then I did this read my motor up and all this and it worked I have heat like I've never had before incredible
You solved my problem. I was getting no heat at all. I thought the de-gas bottle was full because I just looked at it and think it's full. When I removed the cap I found out that the antifreeze just stained the bottle like red sauce in Tupperware . It was bone dry. So I followed your steps and I had to keep putting in antifreeze in it to keep it above the fill line. Now I have heat at idle, and while driving. Thanks man your the best!!!!
It took many times on a steep driveway. But it worked! The vacuum system would be the best way but if ur on a budget this does work. It took me about 10 cycles of doing this. Getting that sloshing thru the heater core to go away. I tried everyrhing after changing thermostat. Thanks man.
Also have a 2.5 2010 fusion
Thanks for the video. Wife's 2012 escape was overheating. Replaced thermostat and purged the air from system with your technique. Runs fine now without overheating.
Thank God dude I just put a new engine in my truck and you saved me the biggest headache ever
Been tackling tons of leaks in my ranger, done head gaskets and timing cover.. It's been -40 c here some weeks, always used this method, had heat back in 10min.. Worked every time without fail. Thank you for your tips & tricks!
Just did stepmoms 2010 2.5 Fusion, cyl head coolant outlet fitting, and did the valve cover gasket set as well. Watched vids of yours for both of these jobs. Moving the wiring harness, for cover job, and this bleeding vid were awesome for the coolant repair... I did use the bleeder fitting, on the coolant outlet block, it did seem to remove quite a bit air itself... That start and stop, and then running the RPM up to 3500, is the the bomb !!!! God bless brother....
I fixed my car with this video, thanks for sharing this information, blessings,
This a method that I have used for many years and mainly it works well. I know some systems do need to be vaccumed to get at good result but I am not a fan of the process as it can cause issues with hoses. I would like to add that it is best to not have the coolant pressure cap down tight if the engine is cold as this allows the system to have an area of lower pressure to which the air can move to and escape. As the engine warms up the pressure cap will have to be tighten so coolant is not forced away from hot parts by steam pressure. But slowly release any pressure once the engine is stopped, without fully removing the pressure cap. Always wise find out how far you can unscrew the cap for it not to hold pressure while the system is cold.
Wow! For the 1st time ever. After replacing the thermostat in my daughters 05 Ford 500 I experienced this. No heat and over heating. I figured it might be air but really didn't know what else to do to get it out.
This worked perfectly. Thanks for sharing Ford tec!😀
Brilliant video, it resolved my cold air problem, but i would say that i waited 2 to 3 mins after 3500rpm blasts as i noticed the air came back into the expansion tank way after 1 min, and also i had to repeat the process 7 times! But i still fully did it, so there is no limit on how many times are needed in repeating this. Just do it till its done! But great advice in general and a great video, well done.
I can hardly believe this worked, it was so neat to watch the bubbles coming up in the overflow tank. I just repeated until that stopped, no more overheating thank you!
Once I get heat ive never had a problem afterwards. That being said I have spent a lot of time struggling with tougher cooling systems. As always your suggested methods improve my ability to work on cars. Many thanks and keep up the good work.
Worked perfectly for me. I can’t thank you enough.
Everyone, please like this video if it helped you.
Thank you so much for showing us this tip.
Very well done and informative. Was stumped on why I was overheating after a t-stat replacement and flush of my 04 Expy. Tried EVERYTHING; draining and refilling, burping with the front end elevated on ramps, pulling the new tstat because I thought it was bad, etc. Saw this method and 15 mins later it was back to normal, no overheating, cabin heat was working great. Thanks again!
Nice!
Wow. I've looked for some bleeder point and was almost ready to take my heater core loose and back flow to clean it out. I was getting decent heat at fast idle and driving, but not like before. That's when I realized the core was clean but not getting the flow through it. This tip to bleed worked great for me. Thanks man. I've gotta watch more if your videos.
Was loosing my mind with my car overheating outta nowhere. After watching numerous videos I came across yours. I did process of elimination because I changed a few parts including coolant temp sensor and cylinder head temperature sensor. So since I knew those were brand new and I had no issues with my blower heater motor I tried this. Dude all it took me was 5 minutes, perfect. My heating system is back on point. Thanks bud.
See I'm thinking I need to do this or similar the dealers recommended method. 5 mins @ 2500 revs then 3k revs for 5 seconds . Garage can't find anything wrong ..New cap etc . Most parts renewed in recent months..had coolant spray from overflow onto engine . Dash coolant temp high . Could still be an air pocket they've not sorted properly
Just watched video, after a "no heat" situation swapped out 12 year old thermostat and attempted to "burp" system, failed miserably, watched this video and followed steps and voila we have heat! thanks!
This video saved my bacon on an '02 Escape 3.0. This method worked where the spillproof funnel and airlift vacuum fill tool failed miserably. Brian, you are awesome. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with your easy-to-understand videos!
Just did this to my 2015 ford explorer and it worked perfectly!! Had to do it like 6 or 7 times but hey it worked!! Changed the upper coolant hose and it was still over heating so my mechanic suggested me this video to watch so I can do it and it worked perfect🙏🏽🤝🏽💯 thank you so much for the info bro…subscribed! 🔔🔔
I have a 2011 Ford explorer and the twmp gauge goes crazy like I'm over heating even when I just start the car. Only goes crazy when I drive. I think I have air in the system. Did yours do the same thing?
Once again you SIR are a genius. Thank you so much. This happened when my wife's car had a slip in the serpentine belt and somehow got air in the system. After I changed the belt I couldn't find the reason it was overheating. Did this burp method 5xs and its back to normal. Thanks for all you do.
Man, thank you so much! My wife overheated her f150 last year, filled the reservoir and all was well until it started getting cold a few weeks ago. We flushed the coolant with water for a few hours a night for 3 nights after work (I'm embarrassed to admit the color of the water, thought that was the problem for sure). When it started to come out clean we used commercial flush/cleaner, I tore into the dash after the blend door, it worked fine, then I stumbled upon your video. 10 minutes and I'm sweating in the cab. I don't regret flushing the coolant, but man I'm glad I saw this video before I dug any deeper into the interior. Thanks a million.
Man, thank you SO much for this trick! My 2008 Ford Escape had never had an overheating problem, and then a bad connection led to the fans not running. Next thing I know, my temp gauge is pinning to the Big Bad Red "H", and no cabin heat. I got the fans going, but that only lowered the heat a little bit, and it sometimes pinged back up to Red. I just happened upon your video on a Ford forum and tried the procedure you describe. After 2 cycles, the temp gauge was back to mid-range and the cabin air was blowing hot, hot, hot! I'm stayin' wired to your channel, dude! Thank you!
Thank you so much you were very thorough and easy to understand for a 40 something yr old woman who just replaced the radiator in my 2010 Ford fusion! Thanks to an 8 pt buck than jumped off a bank and landed in front of my car! I was only going 35 so it didn't even knock him down! But the front of my car got demolished! Thank you and I will definitely recommend at every opportunity in the future! Good job!
I literally just went trough the same thing
I just did the same at 17!!! Twins
@Olivia-xz6sw so sorry to hear that! It's definitely a bummer. Good luck to you hon
@kiradelong9698 sorry I just saw your response!
I’ve had my Ford Fusion for 7 years now and you have helped me every step of the way to keep me rolling. Thank you Sir!
Worked great! This is what the internet is for not the other garbage . THANKS
Thanks man. I just put a new water pump in. Put everything back together then had no heat. This worked great. Thanks
Thank You!! I just did a timing set on a 5.4 3v and could not get any cabin heat after. You're videos are so professional and to the point, unlike the rest. Thank you again for putting the time in.
This process worked perfectly after changing all of the hoses and thermostat on my 2009 Escape 3.0.V6. Thank you! Still, I may invest in the cooling system evacuation tool. That would save some time.
This worked for our 2010 Mercury Mariner V6. With the engine completely cold the coolant level was way below the cold fill range and we don't know why. Filled it about 1" above max cold fill as suggested and ran 4 cycles. After the first two cycles there was a lot of air hissing out when the cap was removed. A lot less after the third cycle and nothing audible after the forth. There is a ton of heat coming out now. No maintenance was done on the vehicle. It just started not putting heat into the cabin intermittently. Thanks a lot for the video.
Thank you so much man! Your time, knowledge, and willingness to share both for free is extremely appreciated!
Thank you SO VERY MUCH for this quick and easy fix. I had resigned myself to a very cold Winter w a HFreight plug in defroster. I'm not a slouch w tools but, by no means, a mechanic and your video helped me still love my '98 Expedition. You're a good man, doing good work, and I thank you.
Much to my frustration, I also couldn't get my 2.5L fusion to produce heat after replacing a thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner.
I'd read the comment of someone else having to do it 5 times. I had to do it multiple times as well. And eventually it worked out. Thanks to you for the video and for people commenting their experiences. saved myself a lot of money.
After the 2nd iteration of doing the RPMs I’m sitting in my car and just got heat back. Love your videos man thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world 🙏🏽
My hubby went a week in his F150 truck without heat. He had to replace the heater core on it first, then no heat. I watched your video & had to give it a try, IT TRUELY WORKED..... Thank you so much for sharing this with us.....
Thank you for this video. My 2012 fusion has been making a noise from the heater core for 4 years since I had a local shop do a system flush. Just did one myself again this weekend and , with the help of this video, got it to stop! Had to do about 6 rpm cycles, but it worked.
Love your videos! You've held my proverbial hand through all my f150 repairs and I've learned a ton. Thanks man!
Thank save money
Man you just saved me today. Had a coolant hose break thought it got to hot but never over heated. No heat then runs hot. Did this trick it burped had to add over a gallon when all said and done. Heat is hot temp is back to normal. Thanks man!
This worked for me. 2,500 rpms worked great on my 2010 Fusion 2.5L. Thanks man
Did you hear bubbles when you first cranked your car? I hear that on mine and I lose heat and temp gauge starts spiking. I've tried literally everything at this point to fix this car. I'm going to try this tomorrow!
Tried a lot of things but when I did the second round of 30 second revving, heat came back, thank you!
Thanks man. My car was heating up when I change the heater hose . Just doing this method that you demonstrate work. Thanks bro
Thank you bro it’s working on my 2010 Ford Focus se 4 cylinder engine after I change the water heater hose on it it’s was leaking the car start to overheating I thought my thermostat was gone then I come up to your video I did the exact same thing you said on your video and it’s work now I have heat on my car no more overheating thank you bro I really appreciate God bless .
This procedure would have saved my 2008 Taurus X! I learned about the procedure after I experienced so much violent overheating issues that it blew out the water pump main seal on my X.
My X was running fine, but at 250K I thought it would be a good idea to flush my cooling system for “preventive” maintenance. So I let Jiffy Lube do it and they (nor I) knew the system had to be purged properly. I experienced nothing but intermittent overheating issues for months afterwards because I didn’t know about this procedure. Finally got so violent that the pressure blew out water pump seal. At that point I had 292K on the car and ended up donating my beloved car to DAV!
When all else has failed to completely purge air from a cooling system, drive in 1st and 2nd gear in a very hilly suburban area. Keeping the revs anywhere from 3000-5000 rpm while driving up and down steep hills especially while cornering has worked for me to get out that last bit of air and stop the gurgling noise. I find 10 minutes of this driving does the trick. Just keep an eye on your temperature gauge to be safe.
I hit like because he totally helped me burp my truck using a really easy method. We swapped out the blend door acuator and after struggling with those 3 screws with almost zero space around them and still not having any heat was frustrating to say the least! After 2 rounds of burping, the heat is coming on....hoping it'll get hotter with a couple more rounds?!!! Thank you so much!
This is how the ford dealer manual suggests bleeding the system in my 2012 focus. It works really well, I could actually see the air bubbles coming out the coolant bottle. Good tip
Did you leave the coolant cap off?
@@untraditionalministries4588 it was over a year ago so I can't even remember. I followed the Ford manual verbatim and it worked quite well on my focus.
2013 Ford Escape 1.6 L Ecoboost- worked on third cycle! Thank you!!!!
Your videos have been great helping me track down my coolant leak on f150 Y pipe. This one also is a gem. You also reply to comments. God bless neighbor 👍
My go to guy since I got a 03 Ford expedition 5.4 engine. Extremely helpful
Thanks, Bryan. I wish I had found this video before changing the thermostat in 35* weather. I had better luck eliminating trapped air by putting the front of the car on ramps. The added angle seemed to help. Thanks again, sir.
Thank you this did the trick on my 2000 f150 4.2 after a new radiator install at 251000 miles
Exactly the method I use. It seems simple but works really well. I have an AirLift too, but never use it. I see lots of guys jack up the front end, use the Lisle rad funnel, etc.
Have to admit, I was skeptical, as my air pocket was lodged in the rear heater core of a Toyota Sienna van. But I was out of options - I purged per the procedure in the manual, no luck. I used this procedure, had rear heat again. Thank you!
Thanks, this worked for my ford escape. I appreciate it, wasn’t wanting to change thermostat or tear anything apart.
Ford edge had thermostat replaced by husband...heat blows for 10 secs then cold.... Did what you suggested about 5 times... Coolant level dropped and got heat going but blows HOT then warm but stays warm consistently but won't stay hot consistently.... Should I repeat the steps.... This is definitely better than what was going on yesterday!
Does he knew how many people he saved with this video, a hero
🛠 🏆 5-star DIY video. This is how you make a great, useful, and easy-to-follow car maintenance video: tripod-mounted camera, no distracting background music, and methodical explanation every step of the way. When I hear shops charging $200-300 for a coolant flush on the Mazda3 2.3 engine I have to laugh. This is not a hard maintenance item if you follow this video. I've liked and learned from watching all FordTechMakuloco videos.
I fixed two of our family cars whose heaters weren't working well using your method. Thank you SO much!
My man!!!! Worked beautifully to purge on my 13’ F150 ecoboost. Thank you!!
Did you have heat coming out of vents? My 2015 3.5 ecoboost gets a bit hot when driving uphill, but I do have heat coming out of vents . Could air in system be my problem? My thermostrat was bad, I changed it, truck still gets uncomfortably hot driving uphill
I've had my car for a little over three years and it has been running perfectly. I haven't had any major repairs - I just get my oil changed on time. The oil change guy suggested I get a coolant flush, so I did - and only then did I start experiencing issues that my car never had before. Every time I went to fuel up my car I would have starting issues, but I would just crank the car for a little while until it finally started up. After this initial issue at the pump, my car would start everywhere else without any problems - until my next fill up. Then the same problem would repeat all over again. I was told it was the purge valve that needs to be replaced, and I believe it, but I can't help thinking that it has something to do with the coolant flush that was just done. I was basically told that there wasn't a reasonable connection between the coolant flush and my car's issue - and yet it is quite a coincidence to me. Is there any way a coolant flush could cause other such issues with vapors...etc..?
Thank you so much!
I have the 2.5 escape and replaced the radiator, water punk, thermostat and temp sensor and it was overheating with no heat
I was ready to take it in but then watched this video and the trick totally worked!
Thank you 👍👌
Stay Great!!!
I have a 2010 fusion with a 2.5 and I had to replace the thermostat, all I did when I refilled it was open the vent tube poured the coolant back in and no problems, no overheat and plenty of heat at the vents.
It sounds like this problem is caused by the fact that the top of the heater core is higher than the degas bottle so air is being trapped up there. As such you could simply remove the top hose from the heater core and then plug a funnel into the hose and pour more coolant down into the engine until the coolant just starts to come back out of the open fitting of the heater core. Then just reconnect the hose to the core and all the air would be gone. Basically what you'd be doing is filling the system at its true high point instead of the degas bottle so all the air would have to come out.
Yes very much so as I explained in the beginning of the video allot of times it is at the highest point. The problem with the method you are describing though is you will still be introducing air into the system by the hose you disconnected creating a bigger problem because that air would eventually circulate through and get trapped again. Same thing with the reverse cooling systems air can be trapped at various places and this is the best way to get them out short of using the vacuum fill tool.
I disagree. Once the cooling system is completely full of liquid up to the highest point no additional air can enter into the system through there. It's the same thing as in older cars if you take the radiator cap off when the radiator is full. Even though the cap is off no air will enter the system if it's already full up to the top and holding coolant.
The way air enters the cooling system during servicing is that draining the coolant out of the bottom draws in fresh air from the outside to replace the missing liquid. Typically the replacement air enters the cooling system through the open fill point located somewhere near the top. So as long as the cooling system is closed down below and its full of coolant up to its highest point then having it opened only at the highest point will not let any air in.
Therefore, if the cooling system is being filled through the disconnected heater hose the engine and cooling system will gradually fill and the coolant level will rise and the air will be forced out. Eventually the heater core will also fill until excess coolant will start to come out through the open tube. At that point the entire system including the heater core will be full because most of the air will have already been purged out and then you can reconnect the hose and close the system. Any small amounts of air still trapped anywhere in the system will eventually purge out once the coolant begins to circulate. Eventually it will all end up in the degas bottle.
Filling this type of system through the heater hose is probably faster and easier than using the vacuum method or cyclically racing and stopping the engine to purge out the air. This is because it will immediately purge most of the air from the engine and the rest of the cooling system before you even start the engine.
Hi I just flushed heater core that was clogged and had no heat at all. After de clogging it. I have heat only in city driving, highway it's not hot as it should be. What do u suggest please?
Would be nice to plumb in a simple petcock at the highest point. Will never have that issue again.
I agree with Alyx! I just did this tonight on my 2013 f150 and it worked and got me and me and my kids heat back in our truck without me having to take it in and get mansplained to and probably get robbed for replacing a heater core or flushing the system... THANK YOU!! Yall give this man a like and a share!!
Thanks so much for this video! I had a coolant leak from my coolant pump so I replaced it and I replaced my thermostat at the same time. I cleaned and flushed my system in this process as well. My auto maintenance experience is very little so replacing those two parts was huge for me. However I finished and it was still overheating and I became very discouraged. I was just about to give up and take it into a mechanic when I watched this video, followed it to a T, and viola it worked. Thanks so much for the help! Please keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for sharing. This got me out of a sticky situation when I had an air pocket in the system and the manual stopped being helpful
Thumb this video up
Thank you thank you thank you
Fixed my Ford Fusion EB! Took a few tries, but no longer has the washing splashing water sound while the car is off
I was on the way to the mechanic to donate money for nothing
Thanks, I had to replace my thermostat in my 2013 Ford F-150. Afterwards, I topped off my coolant and thought i was good. Then I had cold air at stops and idle. And would overheat for a few minutes then be ok. This seems to have done the trick. Great tip/video.
Only thing I would add is a set of ramps or a steep grade to get the radiator as the high point.
Massive thanks for this and all your videos! I just changed the coolant on a new to me 2018 F-150. Was blowing cold air and i was thinking i just wrecked the truck i had worked so hard to get. Followed your procedure this morning and fixed!!!
Great video! For the 4 cylinder 2.3L, there is a bleeding screw that helps with the bleeding process.
Where is it located?
Thanks! It worked for me. It was not working too good….Then I parked my car at a ramp where the front of the engine was lower than everything else and it helped push the air bubble out.
I have a 2012 Fusion and I could hear bubbles going through something when I would start the car plus the overheating and lack of heat. Did this trick four times and I no longer hear the bubbles and the heat is back at full strength at idle!! Thanks so much for posting a very helpful video!
Did this fix hold up? Was your car a 4cylinder SE? I have a 2010 SE and hear bubbles when cranking too. Overheats at idle and loses heat unless it's driven about 50mph then the temp goes down.
Did you remove the cap any when revving?
Good video's you make. I tried this way on my 2017 Explorer XLT 3.5 liter, and it didn't work. The coolant for whatever reason would not flow with the cap on, and the Heater running. I took the coolant bottle cap off instead, and let it idle for about 20 minutes, occasionally revving the engine to 2000 RPM's, and then I could see big air bubbles rising too the top. Squeezing the hose helped as well. Point is I did it differently, and it worked. I still don't know why the way Ford said to bleed it didn't work, but oh well.
I have fixed so many things on my vehicles and been able to speak technically with my service writer at the Lincoln Dealership as a result of all of your awesome videos. I asked him about the oil catch can for the 3.5twin turbo eco boost in my 2013 lincoln MKT and he says they have never installed one an any Lincolns with eco boost. My tech encourages me to use good gas and go for an Italian tune up after it gets good and warm. This should keep the chemicals and oil burning off and said that the tuning on the trucks version of the same engine is tuned a bit different. My ecoboost is a powerhouse now after they cleaned the intake with a 3 part cleannig system and reprogrammed the ecm.
Just want to thank you for your help. This worked perfectly for me. After changing water pump and thermostat I had no cabin heat. Used your technique and I'm cruising warm and more importantly defrosted.
I did this procedure and my coolant got fuller and fuller every time. What does that usually mean? It was overflowing by the end
I’ve been watching your videos for years and you have helped me with several projects, from drain and fills of my CD4E to brake jobs. I recently purchased a beater F150 for truck things and could NOT get heat. I made sure the blend door was working and a few other things.
This video did it! The vehicle sat for a year or so and it must have had an air bubble after some repairs. Thank you so much!
Often this issue is caused by not properly bleeding the system when refilling coolant after a drain. The Escape has a self-bleed system but you still need to make sure the heater core is wide open the first time around and taking these steps before taking it back on the road.
This guy is Awesome
Great video man. Big help to the shade tree mechanic who just changed his own heater core in a 2000 F150. Thanks!
Same here on a 97 made in 96. This dude knows what's up n can explain best I find on the ol truck. Ford needs him on a commercial.
Hello, I have a 1997 f150 4.6. Do I need to jack up the truck in front and do this procedure?
Thank you so much. My 2014 Ford Taurus was very low on coolant and had no heat. I filled the resevoir but still had no no heat at all even while driving. I came across this video and did the the cold then hot reving for 30 seconds each and now the heater is working perfectly again!
Worked on my 06 f150 like a charm
No problems since GOOD info thank you !!!!!
Gonna try it on the 2008 tomorrow!
So then it should work on my 02 Expedition 🤔
@@amandag735 YOLO
Ford Tech Makuloco have you ever tested the water pump for flow rate and ability to push coolant up a hill? The man that gave us the 4 cycle internal combustion engine established that before an engine can be tuned step 1 is to establish a coolant flow rate of 10 liters per minute at 500rpm. The pump should also be able to push the coolant known as head pressure at least 50 feet. The pressure is so the pump can push the coolant through the restrictive passages that car and truck cooling systems have. A good way to test if an engines pump is up to the minimum standard is to disconnect the heater hoses run them into a bucket of coolant then start the engine and bleed the system, then remove the flow hose and stop watch the flow into a 1 liter container. Thanks for your great channel.
Darryl
And how would a mechanic fix pressure and flow rate? These things are built into the design and barring a cooling system obstruction not serviceable characteristics.
Look at what makes a pump a pump. Impeller design impeller clearance to wiping face and impeller blade shape. Cavitation is one of the enemies of pumps and especially engines as it introduces bubbles and bubbles mean troubles. Start testing what you have and then look at a proper pump used in industry and domestic purposes.
***** Like I said, all elements of the design phase. Nothing serviceable by a field technician.
"Bubbles"...You mean air bubbles in a sealed pressurized system that should be void of air?
Yes, after many hours testing water pumps especially with a tin impeller, we saw bubbles due to cavitation. We also found that some coolant suppliers were adding detergent to their product which of course promotes bubbles.