I'm so impatient watching videos this detailed BUT you kept me hooked. I've never been able to sharpen anything without a cheating tool but this video was extremely informative and helpful. THANK YOU!
Love the attention to detail. Thank you, I felt like I was an apprentice, 1st day on the job. I have been sharpening my own knives for about a year and this video was very helpful. I'm getting Japanese stones!
*Very interesting video! I recently restored a vintage knife sharpener with a very interesting operating principle. I would like to know your opinion about it ;-)*
This is really a good advertisement for how forgiving Tina grafting knives are since so much of this technique is not at all what the professionals do. He is holding the knife wrong side down on the scion cutting stroke and he is cutting away rather using a pulling stroke toward your body with bevel side up. The flat side of the knife is always against the scion which is the whole point of using the "chisel" to make a very flat cut. Also he is sharpening (putting pressure) on the push stroke rather than putting pressure on the the pull stroke which is how the experts do it.
100% agree with you here, From experience working in the horticulture industry, particularly in grafting trees, personally speaking I've never had a need for a ''razor'' sharp edge. As long as it can cut through the wood efficiently then it fulfills it's job. This is just my personal opinion, but for me, getting a knife that is not supposed to be a scalpel, to be as sharp as one i.e. can cut through your arm hair...seems a bit overkill. A small point also, you do not ALWAYS need cuts to be in one motion. you can make the cut in 100 motions as long as your finishing surface is smooth. At the end of the day, the tree wants to live...if the surface of the wood isn't perfect, it'll work around that. Yes of course smoother wood means a better strike rate but....in the real world, it just doesnt work like that... Ideally you want every knife to cut through space and time, but when you're in the field, again,in my experience, you DO NOT sharpen after every cut. You'd never get through your workload, you'd spend more time sharpening than actually using the knife and you're basically admitting that the edge you put on is only good for one cut...and no more. The knives we use in the nursery I work for, you'd be lucky if they got sharpened 2 or 3 times in the day. Maybe on a lunch break. This is all subjective but for me, a decent edge should get me through 1 field line of trees, which at our spot, is approx 160 trees, or 220 roses. The cutting technique also affects this of course. We don't cut away from ourselves, we hold the scion close to the chest and draw across our chest. I find it offers more control. And we don't have our thumbs behind the blade either which freaks some people out. But it works. I've grafted thousands of trees and I'm sorry to say it. I do not know who this guy is in the video....but he seems like a hobbyist...and not an actual nurseryman...
You sharpened it for right hand. Means you will cut scion in direction to yourself when holding that knife. And when you cut it, you showed in opposite direction of yourself
I'm so impatient watching videos this detailed BUT you kept me hooked. I've never been able to sharpen anything without a cheating tool but this video was extremely informative and helpful. THANK YOU!
Love the attention to detail. Thank you, I felt like I was an apprentice, 1st day on the job. I have been sharpening my own knives for about a year and this video was very helpful. I'm getting Japanese stones!
Εχceptional video, thank you sir.
*Very interesting video! I recently restored a vintage knife sharpener with a very interesting operating principle. I would like to know your opinion about it ;-)*
thanks a lot. but I have the belgian coticule de vielsalm stone. At the shop they recommended it with the Tina knife
This is really a good advertisement for how forgiving Tina grafting knives are since so much of this technique is not at all what the professionals do. He is holding the knife wrong side down on the scion cutting stroke and he is cutting away rather using a pulling stroke toward your body with bevel side up. The flat side of the knife is always against the scion which is the whole point of using the "chisel" to make a very flat cut. Also he is sharpening (putting pressure) on the push stroke rather than putting pressure on the the pull stroke which is how the experts do it.
Correct, to cut away properly, he'd need a left handed grafting knife with one sided bevel.
100% agree with you here,
From experience working in the horticulture industry, particularly in grafting trees, personally speaking I've never had a need for a ''razor'' sharp edge. As long as it can cut through the wood efficiently then it fulfills it's job. This is just my personal opinion, but for me, getting a knife that is not supposed to be a scalpel, to be as sharp as one i.e. can cut through your arm hair...seems a bit overkill. A small point also, you do not ALWAYS need cuts to be in one motion. you can make the cut in 100 motions as long as your finishing surface is smooth. At the end of the day, the tree wants to live...if the surface of the wood isn't perfect, it'll work around that. Yes of course smoother wood means a better strike rate but....in the real world, it just doesnt work like that...
Ideally you want every knife to cut through space and time, but when you're in the field, again,in my experience, you DO NOT sharpen after every cut. You'd never get through your workload, you'd spend more time sharpening than actually using the knife and you're basically admitting that the edge you put on is only good for one cut...and no more.
The knives we use in the nursery I work for, you'd be lucky if they got sharpened 2 or 3 times in the day. Maybe on a lunch break. This is all subjective but for me, a decent edge should get me through 1 field line of trees, which at our spot, is approx 160 trees, or 220 roses. The cutting technique also affects this of course. We don't cut away from ourselves, we hold the scion close to the chest and draw across our chest. I find it offers more control. And we don't have our thumbs behind the blade either which freaks some people out. But it works. I've grafted thousands of trees and I'm sorry to say it. I do not know who this guy is in the video....but he seems like a hobbyist...and not an actual nurseryman...
also why he is sharpening level side?' seems everything wrong
❤
Thank you!
Awesome
I personally like to cut them bu grabbing one stick and my knife and pull for a faster cut and one cut
You sharpened it for right hand. Means you will cut scion in direction to yourself when holding that knife. And when you cut it, you showed in opposite direction of yourself
9.