Leather I use below ⬇ Links to compound, and everything else, in the description. These tend to sell out fast 😬If you have any questions for future vides leave them below. Thanks for watching! leather amzn.to/42hBGi3 These are amazon affiliated links as an amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. Personal statement⬇ As an affiliate, I earn commissions from qualifying purchases, at no additional cost to you. I bought everything in this video with my own money, and am free to link to anything I want. Recommendations, comments, and criticisms, are based on personal experience with products. At this time, (time of video upload, subject to change) I am NOT sponsored by any company. Thanks
Serious question: what about hide glue? I have several vintage bottles (older than both of us, so old formula from back when shit worked) that are still good... and I would assume it should work... and I can't find my contact cement, lol.
Your link to the Jende 4 Micron is already sold out and do not see 6 μm either. Would you recommend 2 or 8 μm since they are the closest size in stock?
DUDE! DO NOT EVER apologize for making a long video. I think I've watched all of the videos that you've put out, and one thing I can guarantee I have never said is "Man, that video was too long!" Almost every video you put out gets watched twice in a row by me. And im still wanting more at the end of every one. Youre very skilled, smart, funny, and some other words I don't know. That makes me keep watching your stuff trying to learn. Youve got something here, and you're good at it. 😊 Thanks for the videos you've already put out, thanks for the stuff that you're in the process of putting together and putting out, and most importantly thanks for the lifetime of information. TONS AND TONS of YT channels suck. Yours doesn't
no one say "it's too long" - they just silently skip parts or drop it ) statistics is "average watch time is 8 mins" and "more then 15mins is a waste" i don't mind long videos if it worth it (and this author makes it so), but statistics is statistics - can't be helped.
I'm not sure as I don't know the stats, but I feel that these numbers hughly depend on the type of video and the target audience @@tomekvilmovskiy6547
I've been trying to whittle hair for 2 yrs. Tried several stones. Sharp, yes, manly sharp, no. Never get it. Been watching you for a year or so. You said get the Sharpal diamond, so I did. After a tiny wee bit if prcatice, I now even have the $12 Kershaw Hotwire knife I found while fishing razor whittling hair sharp. Thank brother.
Im going to say it . Alex makes the BEST sharpening videos on RUclips. Its not even a contest. No one has properly explained before exactly what the strop does, with such clear images
There is nowhere else on RUclips that provides this level of detail delivered in a clear, concise and articulate manner. What long video? I watched it twice and several parts of it a lot more than that. Thanks for this - I'm making a new strop tomorrow following exactly what you've shared with us here.
refreshing to see someone on youtube who actually knows what they are talking about. as a former tooling service tech, i can expand on what he is saying about burrs. when steel dulls the cutting edge rounds over. as opposed to carbide, which is sintered and therefore the material breaks down and falls away from the tool material. rough sharpening is traditionally done with the grinding direction away from the cutting edge as is shown here, resulting in the steel curling back over the opposite edge. this is a perfectly normal result of the material. carbide will not burr, but the sintered particles can lose their bond at the cutting edge with the end result being not as sharp as it could be in either case. my experience doingn that work taught me that grinding in the opposite direction for a final few passes will eliminate the burr AND result in a very crisp cutting edge. especially on carbide for reasons i have yet to understand. from the perspective of a tool grinding machine, if the last pass grinds INTO the cutting edge with a feed in of maybe .005" to .010" results in a burr free and insanely sharp edge which may only require the briefest and lightest swipe of a superfine stone. the greatest acknowledgement i ever got as a tool grinder was when the owner of the company inspected my work and cut his finger.
That's really interesting regarding steel, carbide, and burs. I'm a knife nerd and run a cnc router at a staircase shop. You mention the carbide doesn't form a bur, because it is sintered. How does the process for sintering carbide differ from a powder metallurgy steel, such as CPM 154?
@@redacted547 thats not really my jam. was just pointing out that carbide dulls by a very different process than steel. where steel curls over and the cutting edge wears away, with carbide, the individual micron grains fall out of the matrix their held in. heat greatly accelerates this process as im sure you know as feed speeds and other settings greatly affect tool life. but i really can't speak much to your question more than that.
I really like this channel. It reminds me that if I buy the absolute best knife sharpening tools, the best stones that have been blessed by various monks, and worked my hardest, this dude could do a better job with a random 50 year old brick that has been laying in the elements he found on the side of the road.
Little tip. DOUBLE sided carpet tape works great for attaching leather to wood or whatever you like. Alot less messy and a bit more forgiving also can be removed afterwards if you wish. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
alternatively just use wood. imho it works better than leather, with diamond. any wood works but I like woods that aren't too soft, like balsa, or too hard like oak. woods like birch or basswood are ideal. those sticks for stirring paint work just fine. There is nothing magical about leather as a substrate.
@@TimJohnson-x1o I agree with that I've used Denim, stir sticks, leather, wood, dowels, cardboard and other materials as a stropping base to get slighty different results. The compound does the cutting in that case, although some materials can be used bare without compound to get the job done in a pinch, and diamond compound is definatly my favorite to use.
Most old-timers like us remember that “dad motion” of reaching down with both hands toward the buckle, maybe even pulling the end out of the keeper, while giving you “the look.” That was usually enough to straighten me out.
My dread was when he went out to the greenhouse to fetch a bamboo cane. One thing about corporate punishment is that you get real good at not getting caught.
As a kid( three siblings) from the 70's my dad was a leather craftsman. He never spanked us, because his voice alone would make us piss our pants😂 now my mother on the other hand, got plenty of use of the belts😂
This is THE definitive stropping video Alex! THANK YOU for making and sharing it. This video contains everything the viewer needs to know about stropping. Combining it with your previous sharpening videos will yield an incredibly sharp knife, IF THE VIEWER PAYS ATTENTION! Saving this one to my Knives Playlist.
i was about to say the same, this is the most information dense and all encompassing video on stropping ive ever seen. learned so much and confirmed some things i already knew, all around an amazing video. i would show this in a school
@@TrevorV Sorry, it's polishing compound that comes in bars, it's used in the jewelery trade to polish gold and silver. It's meant to be used on a buffing wheel but it was what I had.
You encouraged me to make my own strop, 2 or 3 years ago, so I went online and bought some thick sheet of leather, cut a 2.5 x 6.5 inch piece of hardwood plywood with a sort of "handle" on one side, glued the piece of leather onto it using woodglue (smooth side down, but still holding perfectly for 2 years of weekly use. But it was some industrial grade woodglue from a friend of mine, so maybe that helped). Then I used a utility knife and cut along the sides of the plywood, to fit it perfectly to the contours of the piece of wood, for the reasons you mentioned in the video So far, I've only tried 1.0 micron aluminium oxide compound for stropping and it worked very well for all of my pocket and kitchen knives. Although, S90V takes quite some time though XD My sharpening routine starts depending on the condition of the apex with a coarse DMT 8", next a fine DMT 8" and finally the leather strop. As I started out on those crappy amazon stones, years ago I felt the sharpening to be extremely exhausting and frustrating, you generate tons of slurry, arms getting tired, but barely any results. My 2 step diamond stone set-up (based on your recommendations) however is really !really fast, effective and no mess at all. No water, no oil, no slurries in the kitchen... my wife also likes it a lot more ... :D Maybe I will try out those diamond compound in the future, however I'm quite happy at the moment with this set-up. Thanks for your content ❤👍 Did I mention that I really appreciate those insane macro-footage 😯👍
When you slapped that piece of leather on the table and said “ Does this bring back memories? “ I lost it!!😅 too funny and so true. My Dad when he got really mad at my brothers and I, would whip his belt off and smack it on something and say to us..”You guys want a piece of this?” I was laughing so hard I've got tears in my eyes. Alex your sense of humour is absolutely the best! Great video as usual..Number 1 fan in Nova Scotia. Cheer MikeR.
@@artsnow8872My mom had a board of education (written on it) that had holes that whistled on the way to my behind. Or alternatively she made me go out and pick a switch from the weeping willow which transferred the weeping to me😮. But hilarious stuff.
Great video (perfect length too). I learn something new in each video you put out. You were the one that got me to finally start my proper sharpening journey. Absolutely love the instant macro shots to true understand what is happening to the steel. Keep it up.
I'm sure there's no way to really answer this but how often should you reapply the compound? Are there some rules of thumb? Every other time you use it or every dozen times? Strictly by feel when it seems to be less effective? Should you recondition with the sanding block before adding more compound or just spluge some more on?
and if you place a piece of thin paper between your finger and the surface that you want to inspect for irregularities, your touch sensitivity will greatly increase. (the paper moves along with the finger). try it with a coin, for example.
To feel imperfections/rough spots on a cars finish the bottom cellophane wrapper from a pack of cigarettes (if you can find one) will amplify the feeling. Weird but true
I ran across an old cowboy belt in my closet a few years ago, a co-worker said his dad would sharpen all his knifes on a belt for decades. Incredible results! This video took it to another level. Thanks man
Nothing related to that vid. But wanted to compliment your work. From all the sharpening clips and channels which were really „in“ a while ago, i still enjoy only your channel at the moment fir many reasons. Whenever i got friends over (which became somewhat rare lately due to personal reasons) every one is like „dude, your kitchen knives are amazing“ i just tell them to watch your vids. I only use cheapest knives and ever since i use your tips, they are extremely sharp and also keep the edge so much longer. Again.. appreciate your work. Keep it up!
Another excellent video. Thank you so much for the information and examples you provide us. You are without a doubt the best sharpening tutor on youtube. Keep up the great work!
I have been watching your videos for a while and I have to say that your explainations and visualizations are fantastic! The science of sharpening a knife free hand has always been difficult for me and your videos have made it very clear. Thank you for taking the time to share your information with us.
I made some strops out of exotic woods and this guy bought a few from me. I think he has passed now. RiP, Sultan of Speed. He stropped a Spyderco Delica ZDP-189 down to 26 on a BESS meter with my strop. He wanted to send me Kangaroo leather to adhere to an exotic wood to see how low we could go. I love your videos and use them as a reference, Outdoors55! You do great work for knife makers!
DAMN! Off a 400 grit stone...... it just goes to show that a guy is better off spending effort on keeping a constant angle while sharpening rather than 20 different stones or gadgets.
@@CorpseGrin The point was that you don't need high polish and thus many different stones for a hair whittling edge. Strops are cheaper for working up to a mirror polish anywho.
I’m amazed at the quality of these videos. Thank you kindly for putting them out. They’re pleasant to watch and probably the most informative I’ve found. No hype, no BS, just facts. There’s literally nothing I’d want to see done differently from the way they are done.
Can you make a video on the significance of scratch pattern angle on the bevel? Is there any difference between 45° and 90° patterns? In 45° pattern, is there a difference between stratches going from handle to tip or tip to handle? It seems like 45° tip to handle pattern is the norm. Is there a particular reason for that?
I'm very much a noob, but from what I can gather, it doesn't matter much (as long as it's not parallel to the edge that is). the idea of "45" (maybe 30 to 60, it doesn't matter, depends a lot on the length of the knife) is because it's the only way to hit the whole blade at once -- so it looks better AND you're sure you've hit the whole thing.
The angle of the pattern acts like saw teeth. 90° cuts same in both directions, but 45° tip to heel has more bite for pull cuts. It depends or your intended use what is better, but most of the time one is using more pull cuts so 45° tip to heel is often the best.
I've been watching you for a few years now, and your videos have gotten better and better! Great instructions and love the macro/explanations of what is going on on the edge...
11:53 you can strop straight on glass and the benefit is that it is a very flat surface if you’re making micro bevels. cowhide is around 4mm-6mm and it squishes and stretches which makes a convex edge. kangaroo leather is 1mm-2mm thick and it has much more grain to it than cowhide which also holds more compound and has a better tactile feel to it than cowhide. kangaroo leather is ten times stronger than cowhide and it doesn’t stretch and it’s more abrasion resistant than cowhide so it holds up a lot better than cowhide. kangaroo leather is usually around $30 for the whole thing except for the tail which by itself is around $50. the tail is a better quality for strops than the hide but the kangaroo hide is still much better than cowhide. a barbers strop is still an effective tool for removing the burr and polishing strops are more for removing metal. you can remove a burr with a brick or a polishing strop but people who think that’s what was designed for are wrong.
I made one using kangaroo tail and it is indestructible. Kangaroo TAIL is the strongest leather in the world. It was surprisingly easy and not excessively costly to buy a couple of suitable strips online. Might have helped finding them seeing I live in Australia.
I used to use a bulb from a heat lamp as a hone and it worked fantastically well. It was made of a 10" long quartz glass tube with a frosted (so slightly roughened) surface. Not as much cutting power as a steel hone because of the relative smoothness but it worked great for bringing scalpel and craft knife blades back to a keen edge.
I don’t know if you’ve ever ordered from Tandy leather before but I’m always super happy with their leather. Because I buy rolls of belly for sheath making I’m generally not quite as concerned about small imperfections or inconsistencies but I also was recently at one of their physical stores and they told me that if you order by actually calling the store, you can be more choosy about getting rolls without imperfections
@@OUTDOORS55 that's the wonderful aftermath of tiktok and deteriorating attention span... Edit: btw, because of you, I recently bought my first "starter kit" to get into knife sharpening^^
Would you be willing to either describe how you apply the diamond compound from the syringe? Know you said it depends… but would be interested in seeing how much you apply; what tools you use to mash it into the leather; how thick you do for your compound. There are quite a few about the aluminum oxide, but few on diamond compounds.
I absolutely never thought I'd watch an 18 minute video on stropping technology, but you did a great job not only making things clear, but keeping it interesting. I'll definitely use the knowledge you've given here. Thanks! And subscribed!
I'm now 'hooked' on your videos! This was incredibly detailed, straight forward and helpful. Even if I just wanted to know what a strop does, no one does this type of video better. I'm on amazon now ordering my 'kit' and making my own strop. Unfortunately much of the stuff in your links is currently NOT available.
I've found that leather from a 2 year old unicorn and the yellow pixie dust compound leaves my knife edge magically sharp! Thanks for the great information. I really enjoy your channel sir.
Yeah. I see some people say an edge is "over stropped". I think a more accurate assessment is in those cases the edge is actually just badly stropped. Using a strop carefully, and not just looking at it like a cure all for bad sharpening. Can lead to some amazing edges. In my opinion.
Give beavercraft strops a try they are fantastic ! The white stropping compound really does help it’s a game changer in my eyes I used it on my bk9 and Victorinox’s explorer blades they are almost hair whittling sharp
I made one comment already, but this second one is worth the time as well. You basically started my interest in sharpening by hand and essentially taught me how. About a year and a half ago I set down my system based sharpeners and started my journey of learning how to hand sharpen. After more than a year of failing and succeeding I have finally gotten pretty efficient at hand sharpening. I now prefer it to almost any other method and would not go back for anything. The gear I eventually settled on was the (4) grit DMT dia-sharp stone set with a stone holder from sharpening supplies, of course that's also where I got the stones. I usually finish with my Bacher strop using 1 micron gunny juice and few strokes on the smooth side with no compound. Watching your videos has a real benefit, it's not just sensless rambling about a topic. I have watched your videos for years and taken your suggestions for getting the best results. I am now in a situation where I frequently make money sharpening other peoples knives from work. You don't realize until you become proficient at hand sharpening just how much feedback a blade can give you. Thanks so much for your help!!
I have aluminium oxide compound for a lifetime. Given the fact that Mora knives are my go to knife, I'll be fine. 😁 I agree on the commercial strops being sold. My annoyance with them, many don't have the leather right up to the edge of the piece of wood beneath it. A scandi grind can't be stropped near the handle that way. 👺 Great video. Lots of useful information. 👌
If I bought a strop and the leather wasn't flush with the edges, it'd be going straight back to the seller. That's no use to anybody. I bought a block of the Veritas green compound when I first started sharpening seriously, and I've had nothing but good luck with it. When I take a knife off the strop, I've generally got a mirror finish on the edge. I believe Veritas rate it as half a micron or something, which seems ridiculous. Alex has sold me on the idea of trying some of the diamond jizz though.
@@twatmunro Yeah I send one back to the seller. I have the Veritas compound also. As well as other compounds. None of them diamond. I have enough to serve me the rest of my life. And I have mainly simple steels, Mora knives, Hultafors HVK GH. etc. No need for diamond paste... I do have different microns regarding the aluminium oxide compound. The black being 0.6 micron according to Knives and Tools. That one is the most fine one I have. Also the red and green, the yellow Flexcut Gold . It's all good for me.
@@twatmunro I also bought a piece of leather at Baptist. 50 x 30 cm. 16 euro. What's with the Matt Monro guy in your profile pic, and the name twat munro. Any reason behind it..
@@Yuzuki1337 For kitchen knives I just wash them off before using. Even a few passes on your jeans if being outside should clean them off I would say ?
I LOVE that you have the zoom camera and are putting out all these videos. I've been wanting to sharpen a handful of my knives for years now and keep dragging my feet. But now these new videos will really help me out!!
I have only seen 2 of your knife sharpening videos and I am thoroughly impressed. You make excellent videos that are rich in content. Subscribed immediately. Many Thanks communicating for your knowledge!
Just made my first strop yesterday. Glad to know I did it mostly right. Thanks! Do you have a vid on cleaning the strop? I used the green compound from Harbor Freight and its already pretty dirty after stropping like 9 blades.
As cursed as this may sound, I've been using a strop made out of a piece of microfibre cloth stuck onto a piece of wood. With green compound on it, paired with dialux green compound. It was intended to polish the main bevel of a knife for it to shine. The use as a strop was an accidental discovery. Just make sure to not put too much pressure and go with a very shallow angle, as microfibre is highly compressible. You can even lie the blade flat and strip away as the not compressed part of the cloth will still polish the secondary bevel and edge.
Great video! Not only is this the best stropping video I've ever seen, it's probably the only one on RUclips truly worth watching. For my money kangaroo is the best blend of price and performance but as you say, the leather just holds the compound (the part that does the work). I like CBN more than diamonds but there's only one truly great source for it and I'm not sure if he's still active in the marketplace. But I'll be honest, I do still use green chromium oxide paste for some things (mostly for doping my leather belts for the grinder) mostly due to the low cost. On a 1x42" belt the green stuff works fine. Thanks so much for this wonderful reference work. Apropos of nothing, back in the day when you mostly discussed knife making I liked your channel but it's so much better once you started to get into reviews and tutorials, especially the sharpening stuff. There's so much nonsense and noise in that space so it's a breath of fresh air to see a science-based and practical approach to the science (and art!) of sharpening. Those affordable digital microscopes are a game changer!
Most steels I ever sharpened are 14c28n, nitro-v and D2... nothing more fancy! I prefer toothy edge but few passes on the strop makes it better! I don't get hair whittling everytime but I get it to shaving every time. I just have a fallkniven CC4 or victorinox diamond sharpener, and as a strop I use the leather from the fallkniven stone sheath or an old leather belt! And if the knife is starting to get dull, stropping brings it back in shape few times before needing sharpening again! For the first few times I dulled my knife too but I kept trying, watching your tutorials and neeves knives I learned how to hold the angle, that I don't need different grit stones, etc. I think I'm begging to develop a feel and movement that works for me! You don't need top notch expensive stones and sharpeners, because even with those there can be user error, I'm not saying you can just get that 5$ sharpener either, I had one that was just crumbling with each pass... See what others recommend in your budget, build confidence with a knife you don't mind ruining. And think of it as a fun project, if you think it will be frustrating you already set yourself to fail! Good luck!
There are diminishing returns on sharpness. "Hair-whittling sharp" lasts only one use, and it's instantly downgraded to barely shaving sharp. Same with "shaving sharp", it doesn't last much longer long, depending on what you're cutting. I find that "almost shaving sharp" gets you the most for the least effort and lasts a little longer.
This video is great, based on your videos and recommendations, especially for the brand DMT, I made myself 3 strops and got the 3 paste set from them, 3 6 and 9 micron I think, I also got the 3 set of dmt small stones which are fine for pocket knife sizes, They were the best value for the money but their design means they aren't full stones, they are polkadotted to hold the abrasive to the plastic frame but they still work pretty well. So well in fact that I'm looking at getting better and bigger versions of the same stones though I can't decide what I want next, those stones I mentioned or one of the glass stones you've showed recently. I think the glass stone as a single sharpening tool rather than running up through stones would be better. Either way my 3 strops are the real heroes, they make the knife psycho hair whittling sharp, the difference between sharpening super well at a high grit with barely any pressure and just using a basic strop is a massive difference and working my way through my strops makes the knife insane.
Congratulations, you made a masterpiece of a stropping video, I have been sharpening for the past 5 years and also been sharpening 1000s of kitchen knifes for customers. This is perfect as it both affirmatives what I do know but also which details I should look further into to improve stropping. The last section just proves why strops are just amazing for maintaining sharpness, mindblowing to see how it actually looks like up close
I know from that in machining using diamond tools on steel almost immidiatelly makes the diamond dissolve into the steel hence why CBN is used. How come this doesn't happen in stones or stropping compounds, is it just the difference in temperature or is it something else?
Maybe it's temperature. I don't know. However, diamond abrasives are ubiquitous in the steel sharpening world. HOWEVER, CBN wheels are the preferred abrasive for sharpening knives on wheels. (Bench grinder style wheels for sharpening.) Diamond wheels "load up," CBN wheels don't.
I really look forward to your videos no matter how long. Everything you recommend seems to get sold out very quickly. I have bought almost everything you recommend and everything was great. Thank you for another excellent video.
I've watched this video about 3 times now. I ordered some leather, some diamond compound, 220-320 grit sandpaper, and a jeweler's loupe. I assume Lowe's can cut a piece of wood to match the leather dimensions. I am excited about having knives that are really, really sharp (it's a "man thing"). Plus, I am fascinated with diamond compound as, frankly, I didn't know it even existed until this video.
@@jamianrhynehart-ge4uh Mine came, but width-wise, it is much thinner than I had thought it would be (I should have looked at the measurements more carefully, so my bad). I decided to stick with pre-made strops I got online. I did, however, buy some "Stroppy Stuff" (0.5 micron). It does work, I can happily say. My knives are shaving sharp.
@mark91345 that's great to hear, I just ordered a 4pack of diamond compound from jenge with different grits so will let you know how they go as 1 of the vials is as much as 600,000grit 0.025 micron
Man, your videos, the depth of knowledge I'm getting here, awesome. And you're helping me make and buy the stuff all the way to having links. Dude, Thank you, a bunch!
Super channel with super video. Thanks! I can't imagine how long it would take to understand and get a feel for this solely via fora or other youtubers' confusing and incomplete videos
A really very good touch of humor to offset how easy and excellent the Sharpal sharpener is. Wickedly sharp, durable, and idiot proof (mostly) technique. Kudos for the person doing thecamera work. Thanks. GB
Thanks to your detailed videos, I actually managed to sharpen my first knife ever (freehand). Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, I truly appreciate it ! 🤝🏻👍🏻
I can barely sharpen a pencil, knives are often sharper before I start than when finished. Yet I can straight edged tool scary sharp. This guy is awesome
Hey, just a random thought but do you think it'd be possible to sharpen a knife with a laser cnc or setup, which could carve and cut to a thousandths of an inch?
I mean, it seems theoretically possible, but the setup involved would be incredibly prohibitive. Unless you have a 4 or 5 axis CNC? Also, there's the problem of the laser charring where the beam begins, might royally mess up the fine edge of the blade.
What I've learned is you can buy whatever sharpening kit, whatever strop, and it will all do realitivly the same as long as you know what you are doing. I've spent a lot of money on sharpening tools, and I just can not get angles correctly. no matter how long I spend on a knife it comes out dull and with real big bur. I am currently practicing on a worksharp ken onion and using low - mid grade steels to practice.
Thanks very much for the video, all the way from Ireland! Your videos inspired me to pick up some stones back in November. Still have a ways to go, but happy enough with my results. Keep up the good work, very informative stuff, easy to watch and understand.
dude, I've been sharpening knifes with those roller popular swedish store thingies and I actually wondered how those thingies actually made a steel knife from same store worse. After striking upon your videos I've decided that it is finally time to stop slacking and research how to sharpen knifes properly and I've bought 400 grit sharpener which I believe could be even the same you've shown in this video. Knifes are actually sharp now! And they even pass paper cutting test flawlessly. I do still struggle to get them sharp enough to shave, but I do believe that 400 grit to 1000 grit sharpening leaves some bur and was looking into those magic things you use to finish the sharpen - the strops. I'll now just make my own, thank you so much!
Do you recommend finishing stropping on the smooth side of the leather without compound, or do you find that you get the best result with stropping with compound only?
@@OUTDOORS55 Here are the steps I use: Lightly abrade the two mating surfaces with some coarse sand paper, clean well-tack cloth/vacuum/acetone/mineral spirits/alcohol (generally your preference, just do a decent job). Let dry. Before applying the glue wet both abraded surfaces with water (this is not for foaming glue), you can generally add ~20% water to glue without affecting glue strength and many glue joint failures occur because the standard preparations of glue are to thick/concentrated. Apply the glue to the wetted surfaces and spread evenly. There should be sufficient water on the surface that when the glue is applied it starts to obviously self-level at the edges of the bead and spread very easily with your finger but not so thin that when left for a moment that the glue draws together leaving the appearance of holes/voids in the glue. Mate the two glued surfaces and slide back and forth to tack the glue a little and ensure good contact. Clamp the leather to the strop-I use a piece of MDF for a flat surface and clamp it in a vise. Glue should be visible around all the edges. Wipe off excess. Let cure for at least an hour. Trim leather/plane the wood as desired.
Leather I use below ⬇ Links to compound, and everything else, in the description. These tend to sell out fast 😬If you have any questions for future vides leave them below. Thanks for watching!
leather amzn.to/42hBGi3
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Personal statement⬇
As an affiliate, I earn commissions from qualifying purchases, at no additional cost to you.
I bought everything in this video with my own money, and am free to link to anything I want.
Recommendations, comments, and criticisms, are based on personal experience with products.
At this time, (time of video upload, subject to change) I am NOT sponsored by any company.
Thanks
I’ve had pretty good luck buying sides of leather through Tandy. Totally agree on the belt blanks though if all you’re doing is making a strop.
Serious question: what about hide glue? I have several vintage bottles (older than both of us, so old formula from back when shit worked) that are still good... and I would assume it should work... and I can't find my contact cement, lol.
СПАСИБА!!! Thank you! I've been asking you for this for a while and YOU CAME THROUGH!!! 🙂
Your link to the Jende 4 Micron is already sold out and do not see 6 μm either. Would you recommend 2 or 8 μm since they are the closest size in stock?
How do you feel about gunny juice diamond emulsions?
DUDE! DO NOT EVER apologize for making a long video. I think I've watched all of the videos that you've put out, and one thing I can guarantee I have never said is "Man, that video was too long!" Almost every video you put out gets watched twice in a row by me. And im still wanting more at the end of every one. Youre very skilled, smart, funny, and some other words I don't know. That makes me keep watching your stuff trying to learn. Youve got something here, and you're good at it. 😊 Thanks for the videos you've already put out, thanks for the stuff that you're in the process of putting together and putting out, and most importantly thanks for the lifetime of information. TONS AND TONS of YT channels suck. Yours doesn't
no one say "it's too long" - they just silently skip parts or drop it )
statistics is "average watch time is 8 mins" and "more then 15mins is a waste"
i don't mind long videos if it worth it (and this author makes it so), but statistics is statistics - can't be helped.
I wish his was longer to, insightful and entertaining guy
Facts brother 👍😎 this dude is amazing 🤩
I always watch his channels full videos and want more ahahah
I'm not sure as I don't know the stats, but I feel that these numbers hughly depend on the type of video and the target audience @@tomekvilmovskiy6547
I've been trying to whittle hair for 2 yrs. Tried several stones. Sharp, yes, manly sharp, no. Never get it. Been watching you for a year or so. You said get the Sharpal diamond, so I did. After a tiny wee bit if prcatice, I now even have the $12 Kershaw Hotwire knife I found while fishing razor whittling hair sharp. Thank brother.
Im going to say it . Alex makes the BEST sharpening videos on RUclips. Its not even a contest. No one has properly explained before exactly what the strop does, with such clear images
Dude, my life is full of dull knives... you are saving me from all that! You are a mad genius!!! GLORIOUS!!!
Haha thanks! Appreciate the support 🙏🙏👊
There is nowhere else on RUclips that provides this level of detail delivered in a clear, concise and articulate manner. What long video? I watched it twice and several parts of it a lot more than that. Thanks for this - I'm making a new strop tomorrow following exactly what you've shared with us here.
Actually there is, his name is kneves knives
@@tacobellgaming3253 Sure, I like Jerad's content as well.
refreshing to see someone on youtube who actually knows what they are talking about. as a former tooling service tech, i can expand on what he is saying about burrs. when steel dulls the cutting edge rounds over. as opposed to carbide, which is sintered and therefore the material breaks down and falls away from the tool material. rough sharpening is traditionally done with the grinding direction away from the cutting edge as is shown here, resulting in the steel curling back over the opposite edge. this is a perfectly normal result of the material. carbide will not burr, but the sintered particles can lose their bond at the cutting edge with the end result being not as sharp as it could be in either case.
my experience doingn that work taught me that grinding in the opposite direction for a final few passes will eliminate the burr AND result in a very crisp cutting edge. especially on carbide for reasons i have yet to understand. from the perspective of a tool grinding machine, if the last pass grinds INTO the cutting edge with a feed in of maybe .005" to .010" results in a burr free and insanely sharp edge which may only require the briefest and lightest swipe of a superfine stone.
the greatest acknowledgement i ever got as a tool grinder was when the owner of the company inspected my work and cut his finger.
That's really interesting regarding steel, carbide, and burs. I'm a knife nerd and run a cnc router at a staircase shop. You mention the carbide doesn't form a bur, because it is sintered. How does the process for sintering carbide differ from a powder metallurgy steel, such as CPM 154?
@@redacted547 thats not really my jam. was just pointing out that carbide dulls by a very different process than steel. where steel curls over and the cutting edge wears away, with carbide, the individual micron grains fall out of the matrix their held in. heat greatly accelerates this process as im sure you know as feed speeds and other settings greatly affect tool life. but i really can't speak much to your question more than that.
I really like this channel. It reminds me that if I buy the absolute best knife sharpening tools, the best stones that have been blessed by various monks, and worked my hardest, this dude could do a better job with a random 50 year old brick that has been laying in the elements he found on the side of the road.
Little tip. DOUBLE sided carpet tape works great for attaching leather to wood or whatever you like. Alot less messy and a bit more forgiving also can be removed afterwards if you wish. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
alternatively just use wood. imho it works better than leather, with diamond. any wood works but I like woods that aren't too soft, like balsa, or too hard like oak. woods like birch or basswood are ideal. those sticks for stirring paint work just fine. There is nothing magical about leather as a substrate.
@@TimJohnson-x1o I agree with that I've used Denim, stir sticks, leather, wood, dowels, cardboard and other materials as a stropping base to get slighty different results. The compound does the cutting in that case, although some materials can be used bare without compound to get the job done in a pinch, and diamond compound is definatly my favorite to use.
@@TimJohnson-x1o I use a plastic cutting board since it's right there in the kitchen where I'm sharpening knives.
I totally use double sided tape for my strop
Cool tip, can't wait to try it out
When I was a kid, 1950s, and your dad used a straight razor, the strop was dual use. It also was used to make your butt red.
My Dad too. It hangs in my bathroom but i havnt mastered how to use it. Thats why im here!
The unmistakeable “Thwip” of Dads belt coming out of the loops. Usually never did whatever I did wrong again, lol
Most old-timers like us remember that “dad motion” of reaching down with both hands toward the buckle, maybe even pulling the end out of the keeper, while giving you “the look.”
That was usually enough to straighten me out.
My dread was when he went out to the greenhouse to fetch a bamboo cane.
One thing about corporate punishment is that you get real good at not getting caught.
As a kid( three siblings) from the 70's my dad was a leather craftsman. He never spanked us, because his voice alone would make us piss our pants😂 now my mother on the other hand, got plenty of use of the belts😂
My favorite character on Sharpening Street is Big Burr
This is THE definitive stropping video Alex! THANK YOU for making and sharing it. This video contains everything the viewer needs to know about stropping. Combining it with your previous sharpening videos will yield an incredibly sharp knife, IF THE VIEWER PAYS ATTENTION! Saving this one to my Knives Playlist.
i was about to say the same, this is the most information dense and all encompassing video on stropping ive ever seen. learned so much and confirmed some things i already knew, all around an amazing video. i would show this in a school
Your tutelage has been invaluable and I've been sharpening many more years than you've been alive. Thank you.
The macro footage are lovely❤ i love macro AND knives.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 and how IS your dutch? I hope its better than my english IS? yeah, sorry for making mistakes mister germany...
Made a strop out of a piece of wood, old belt, and some red compound I had. Works great.
Yep, $2 belt from the local thrift store.
apparently jeans work well too, I've sharpened plenty of razors with them anyways
@@moonasha
Cotton is rough enough to knock the burr off. Even better if you coat the cotton with a compound.
What do you mean by "red compound"?
@@TrevorV
Sorry, it's polishing compound that comes in bars, it's used in the jewelery trade to polish gold and silver. It's meant to be used on a buffing wheel but it was what I had.
Never change the way you explain your craft good video.
I've been sharpening knives for 50 years or so. This video is most practical no nonsense single bit of sharpening advice I've ever seen.
You encouraged me to make my own strop, 2 or 3 years ago, so I went online and bought some thick sheet of leather, cut a 2.5 x 6.5 inch piece of hardwood plywood with a sort of "handle" on one side, glued the piece of leather onto it using woodglue (smooth side down, but still holding perfectly for 2 years of weekly use. But it was some industrial grade woodglue from a friend of mine, so maybe that helped). Then I used a utility knife and cut along the sides of the plywood, to fit it perfectly to the contours of the piece of wood, for the reasons you mentioned in the video
So far, I've only tried 1.0 micron aluminium oxide compound for stropping and it worked very well for all of my pocket and kitchen knives. Although, S90V takes quite some time though XD
My sharpening routine starts depending on the condition of the apex with a coarse DMT 8", next a fine DMT 8" and finally the leather strop.
As I started out on those crappy amazon stones, years ago I felt the sharpening to be extremely exhausting and frustrating, you generate tons of slurry, arms getting tired, but barely any results.
My 2 step diamond stone set-up (based on your recommendations) however is really !really fast, effective and no mess at all. No water, no oil, no slurries in the kitchen... my wife also likes it a lot more ... :D
Maybe I will try out those diamond compound in the future, however I'm quite happy at the moment with this set-up.
Thanks for your content ❤👍
Did I mention that I really appreciate those insane macro-footage 😯👍
When you slapped that piece of leather on the table and said “ Does this bring back memories? “ I lost it!!😅 too funny and so true. My Dad when he got really mad at my brothers and I, would whip his belt off and smack it on something and say to us..”You guys want a piece of this?” I was laughing so hard I've got tears in my eyes. Alex your sense of humour is absolutely the best! Great video as usual..Number 1 fan in Nova Scotia. Cheer MikeR.
Did anyone ever ask for a piece of that?
@@artsnow8872My mom had a board of education (written on it) that had holes that whistled on the way to my behind. Or alternatively she made me go out and pick a switch from the weeping willow which transferred the weeping to me😮. But hilarious stuff.
@@artsnow8872Lol😅 Not me that’s for sure! Cheers MikeR.
Lol
And here I was thinking about leather-bound fun in my 30s...
Fantastic close up shots, you are very skilled!
Thank you so much 😀 And thanks for taking the time to watch 🙏
Great video (perfect length too). I learn something new in each video you put out. You were the one that got me to finally start my proper sharpening journey. Absolutely love the instant macro shots to true understand what is happening to the steel. Keep it up.
13:20 I was ready to hear “smash that like button”, and was so confused when that did not happen 😂
Cause he's not gay.
I'm sure there's no way to really answer this but how often should you reapply the compound? Are there some rules of thumb? Every other time you use it or every dozen times? Strictly by feel when it seems to be less effective? Should you recondition with the sanding block before adding more compound or just spluge some more on?
Alex, I'm a professional sharpener. Your video on stropping is outstanding. Well done, young man. Keep up the good work. Best regards,
can i use pc cooling thermal paste as compound?
Its crazy to think that our fingers are so sensitive that we are capable of feeling a tiny burr in a knife that you can barely see
We have so many "touch" receptors in our palms this is what give us precision of making some tools in the past.
and if you place a piece of thin paper between your finger and the surface that you want to inspect for irregularities, your touch sensitivity will greatly increase. (the paper moves along with the finger).
try it with a coin, for example.
To feel imperfections/rough spots on a cars finish the bottom cellophane wrapper from a pack of cigarettes (if you can find one) will amplify the feeling. Weird but true
@@duuuude3208 yeah same exact trick as using a piece of thin paper.
@@s_s-g4d Thank you. Learned something really useful.
I ran across an old cowboy belt in my closet a few years ago, a co-worker said his dad would sharpen all his knifes on a belt for decades. Incredible results! This video took it to another level. Thanks man
Nothing related to that vid. But wanted to compliment your work. From all the sharpening clips and channels which were really „in“ a while ago, i still enjoy only your channel at the moment fir many reasons. Whenever i got friends over (which became somewhat rare lately due to personal reasons) every one is like „dude, your kitchen knives are amazing“ i just tell them to watch your vids. I only use cheapest knives and ever since i use your tips, they are extremely sharp and also keep the edge so much longer. Again.. appreciate your work. Keep it up!
Thanks for the support! It's definitely appreciated 🙏
Another excellent video. Thank you so much for the information and examples you provide us. You are without a doubt the best sharpening tutor on youtube. Keep up the great work!
For anyone looking for the Jende 4 micron compound, if you go directly to their website, they do have it in stock. They also have smaller sizes.
I have been watching your videos for a while and I have to say that your explainations and visualizations are fantastic! The science of sharpening a knife free hand has always been difficult for me and your videos have made it very clear. Thank you for taking the time to share your information with us.
I made some strops out of exotic woods and this guy bought a few from me. I think he has passed now. RiP, Sultan of Speed. He stropped a Spyderco Delica ZDP-189 down to 26 on a BESS meter with my strop. He wanted to send me Kangaroo leather to adhere to an exotic wood to see how low we could go. I love your videos and use them as a reference, Outdoors55! You do great work for knife makers!
Does that bring back memories? You have my respect, love the videos keep rocking my brother!
Sadly, yes.... it triggered shit
DAMN! Off a 400 grit stone...... it just goes to show that a guy is better off spending effort on keeping a constant angle while sharpening rather than 20 different stones or gadgets.
Yep, it was a good eye opener
Hey bozo what about polishing. You need more than a 400 grit stone 🤡
@@CorpseGrin The point was that you don't need high polish and thus many different stones for a hair whittling edge.
Strops are cheaper for working up to a mirror polish anywho.
@@Aerzon1v1 let’s see a video of you getting a mirror finish like that. Should be compelling content 🤡
I’m amazed at the quality of these videos. Thank you kindly for putting them out. They’re pleasant to watch and probably the most informative I’ve found. No hype, no BS, just facts. There’s literally nothing I’d want to see done differently from the way they are done.
you are making by far the best videos on youtube about these things I have ever seen. bravo to you.
Please do a video on how to apply compounds (especially emulsions)!! 🙏
they go in the trash learn to sharpen ur blade on a sharpener
This is the best sharpening content on RUclips.
Period
Can you make a video on the significance of scratch pattern angle on the bevel? Is there any difference between 45° and 90° patterns? In 45° pattern, is there a difference between stratches going from handle to tip or tip to handle?
It seems like 45° tip to handle pattern is the norm. Is there a particular reason for that?
I'm very much a noob, but from what I can gather, it doesn't matter much (as long as it's not parallel to the edge that is). the idea of "45" (maybe 30 to 60, it doesn't matter, depends a lot on the length of the knife) is because it's the only way to hit the whole blade at once -- so it looks better AND you're sure you've hit the whole thing.
The angle of the pattern acts like saw teeth. 90° cuts same in both directions, but 45° tip to heel has more bite for pull cuts. It depends or your intended use what is better, but most of the time one is using more pull cuts so 45° tip to heel is often the best.
I've been watching you for a few years now, and your videos have gotten better and better! Great instructions and love the macro/explanations of what is going on on the edge...
Those zoomed in shots are always so incredible, both because they really help explain what's going on and because they're beautiful
Great job, Alex!! I’m still learning stuff from you after a number of years of watching your videos and sharpening on my own for about 50 years.
11:53 you can strop straight on glass and the benefit is that it is a very flat surface if you’re making micro bevels. cowhide is around 4mm-6mm and it squishes and stretches which makes a convex edge. kangaroo leather is 1mm-2mm thick and it has much more grain to it than cowhide which also holds more compound and has a better tactile feel to it than cowhide. kangaroo leather is ten times stronger than cowhide and it doesn’t stretch and it’s more abrasion resistant than cowhide so it holds up a lot better than cowhide. kangaroo leather is usually around $30 for the whole thing except for the tail which by itself is around $50. the tail is a better quality for strops than the hide but the kangaroo hide is still much better than cowhide. a barbers strop is still an effective tool for removing the burr and polishing strops are more for removing metal. you can remove a burr with a brick or a polishing strop but people who think that’s what was designed for are wrong.
I made one using kangaroo tail and it is indestructible. Kangaroo TAIL is the strongest leather in the world. It was surprisingly easy and not excessively costly to buy a couple of suitable strips online. Might have helped finding them seeing I live in Australia.
I used to use a bulb from a heat lamp as a hone and it worked fantastically well. It was made of a 10" long quartz glass tube with a frosted (so slightly roughened) surface. Not as much cutting power as a steel hone because of the relative smoothness but it worked great for bringing scalpel and craft knife blades back to a keen edge.
I don’t know if you’ve ever ordered from Tandy leather before but I’m always super happy with their leather. Because I buy rolls of belly for sheath making I’m generally not quite as concerned about small imperfections or inconsistencies but I also was recently at one of their physical stores and they told me that if you order by actually calling the store, you can be more choosy about getting rolls without imperfections
Love the longer videos, thx ✌️
They don't do as well but I wanted to get as much as possible in this one👍 Thanks my friend!
@@OUTDOORS55 that's the wonderful aftermath of tiktok and deteriorating attention span...
Edit: btw, because of you, I recently bought my first "starter kit" to get into knife sharpening^^
What do you think of just taking wood with compound on it ? Like taking Stroppy Stuff on Balso etc.
Would you be willing to either describe how you apply the diamond compound from the syringe? Know you said it depends… but would be interested in seeing how much you apply; what tools you use to mash it into the leather; how thick you do for your compound. There are quite a few about the aluminum oxide, but few on diamond compounds.
That would be great! Did you find an answer?
I absolutely never thought I'd watch an 18 minute video on stropping technology, but you did a great job not only making things clear, but keeping it interesting. I'll definitely use the knowledge you've given here. Thanks! And subscribed!
I'm now 'hooked' on your videos! This was incredibly detailed, straight forward and helpful. Even if I just wanted to know what a strop does, no one does this type of video better. I'm on amazon now ordering my 'kit' and making my own strop. Unfortunately much of the stuff in your links is currently NOT available.
I've found that leather from a 2 year old unicorn and the yellow pixie dust compound leaves my knife edge magically sharp!
Thanks for the great information. I really enjoy your channel sir.
Yeah. I see some people say an edge is "over stropped". I think a more accurate assessment is in those cases the edge is actually just badly stropped.
Using a strop carefully, and not just looking at it like a cure all for bad sharpening. Can lead to some amazing edges. In my opinion.
Loved this and the breakdown of how-to and why, hope all is well and best wishes from here in the UK
Same to you!
Give beavercraft strops a try they are fantastic ! The white stropping compound really does help it’s a game changer in my eyes I used it on my bk9 and Victorinox’s explorer blades they are almost hair whittling sharp
I made one comment already, but this second one is worth the time as well. You basically started my interest in sharpening by hand and essentially taught me how. About a year and a half ago I set down my system based sharpeners and started my journey of learning how to hand sharpen. After more than a year of failing and succeeding I have finally gotten pretty efficient at hand sharpening. I now prefer it to almost any other method and would not go back for anything. The gear I eventually settled on was the (4) grit DMT dia-sharp stone set with a stone holder from sharpening supplies, of course that's also where I got the stones. I usually finish with my Bacher strop using 1 micron gunny juice and few strokes on the smooth side with no compound. Watching your videos has a real benefit, it's not just sensless rambling about a topic. I have watched your videos for years and taken your suggestions for getting the best results. I am now in a situation where I frequently make money sharpening other peoples knives from work. You don't realize until you become proficient at hand sharpening just how much feedback a blade can give you. Thanks so much for your help!!
I have aluminium oxide compound for a lifetime.
Given the fact that Mora knives are my go to knife, I'll be fine.
😁
I agree on the commercial strops being sold. My annoyance with them, many don't have the leather right up to the edge of the piece of wood beneath it. A scandi grind can't be stropped near the handle that way. 👺
Great video. Lots of useful information.
👌
If I bought a strop and the leather wasn't flush with the edges, it'd be going straight back to the seller. That's no use to anybody.
I bought a block of the Veritas green compound when I first started sharpening seriously, and I've had nothing but good luck with it. When I take a knife off the strop, I've generally got a mirror finish on the edge. I believe Veritas rate it as half a micron or something, which seems ridiculous. Alex has sold me on the idea of trying some of the diamond jizz though.
@@twatmunro
Yeah I send one back to the seller.
I have the Veritas compound also. As well as other compounds. None of them diamond.
I have enough to serve me the rest of my life.
And I have mainly simple steels, Mora knives, Hultafors HVK GH. etc.
No need for diamond paste...
I do have different microns regarding the aluminium oxide compound. The black being 0.6 micron according to Knives and Tools. That one is the most fine one I have.
Also the red and green, the yellow Flexcut Gold .
It's all good for me.
@@twatmunro
I also bought a piece of leather at Baptist.
50 x 30 cm.
16 euro.
What's with the Matt Monro guy in your profile pic, and the name twat munro.
Any reason behind it..
I wouldn't mind aluminum oxide as much for my softer knives if I wasn't cutting so damn much food with them :(
@@Yuzuki1337
For kitchen knives I just wash them off before using.
Even a few passes on your jeans if being outside should clean them off I would say ?
I LOVE that you have the zoom camera and are putting out all these videos. I've been wanting to sharpen a handful of my knives for years now and keep dragging my feet. But now these new videos will really help me out!!
07:32 that brings back some memories.
I have only seen 2 of your knife sharpening videos and I am thoroughly impressed. You make excellent videos that are rich in content. Subscribed immediately. Many Thanks communicating for your knowledge!
Just made my first strop yesterday. Glad to know I did it mostly right. Thanks!
Do you have a vid on cleaning the strop? I used the green compound from Harbor Freight and its already pretty dirty after stropping like 9 blades.
This is one of the best put together sharpening videos out there
As cursed as this may sound, I've been using a strop made out of a piece of microfibre cloth stuck onto a piece of wood.
With green compound on it, paired with dialux green compound.
It was intended to polish the main bevel of a knife for it to shine. The use as a strop was an accidental discovery.
Just make sure to not put too much pressure and go with a very shallow angle, as microfibre is highly compressible.
You can even lie the blade flat and strip away as the not compressed part of the cloth will still polish the secondary bevel and edge.
@@akiraawooch wow, I'm gonna try this. Very cool idea
Great video! Not only is this the best stropping video I've ever seen, it's probably the only one on RUclips truly worth watching. For my money kangaroo is the best blend of price and performance but as you say, the leather just holds the compound (the part that does the work). I like CBN more than diamonds but there's only one truly great source for it and I'm not sure if he's still active in the marketplace. But I'll be honest, I do still use green chromium oxide paste for some things (mostly for doping my leather belts for the grinder) mostly due to the low cost. On a 1x42" belt the green stuff works fine. Thanks so much for this wonderful reference work. Apropos of nothing, back in the day when you mostly discussed knife making I liked your channel but it's so much better once you started to get into reviews and tutorials, especially the sharpening stuff. There's so much nonsense and noise in that space so it's a breath of fresh air to see a science-based and practical approach to the science (and art!) of sharpening. Those affordable digital microscopes are a game changer!
Most steels I ever sharpened are 14c28n, nitro-v and D2... nothing more fancy!
I prefer toothy edge but few passes on the strop makes it better!
I don't get hair whittling everytime but I get it to shaving every time.
I just have a fallkniven CC4 or victorinox diamond sharpener, and as a strop I use the leather from the fallkniven stone sheath or an old leather belt!
And if the knife is starting to get dull, stropping brings it back in shape few times before needing sharpening again!
For the first few times I dulled my knife too but I kept trying, watching your tutorials and neeves knives I learned how to hold the angle, that I don't need different grit stones, etc. I think I'm begging to develop a feel and movement that works for me!
You don't need top notch expensive stones and sharpeners, because even with those there can be user error, I'm not saying you can just get that 5$ sharpener either, I had one that was just crumbling with each pass...
See what others recommend in your budget, build confidence with a knife you don't mind ruining.
And think of it as a fun project, if you think it will be frustrating you already set yourself to fail!
Good luck!
There are diminishing returns on sharpness. "Hair-whittling sharp" lasts only one use, and it's instantly downgraded to barely shaving sharp. Same with "shaving sharp", it doesn't last much longer long, depending on what you're cutting. I find that "almost shaving sharp" gets you the most for the least effort and lasts a little longer.
Yes, I think that how long an edge lasts is more important than splitting hairs (fun intended).@@Bob_Adkins
There can not be too much information when learning from a hard core dedicated expert. This is Expert level information. Thanks mate :)
This video is great, based on your videos and recommendations, especially for the brand DMT, I made myself 3 strops and got the 3 paste set from them, 3 6 and 9 micron I think, I also got the 3 set of dmt small stones which are fine for pocket knife sizes, They were the best value for the money but their design means they aren't full stones, they are polkadotted to hold the abrasive to the plastic frame but they still work pretty well. So well in fact that I'm looking at getting better and bigger versions of the same stones though I can't decide what I want next, those stones I mentioned or one of the glass stones you've showed recently. I think the glass stone as a single sharpening tool rather than running up through stones would be better. Either way my 3 strops are the real heroes, they make the knife psycho hair whittling sharp, the difference between sharpening super well at a high grit with barely any pressure and just using a basic strop is a massive difference and working my way through my strops makes the knife insane.
Congratulations, you made a masterpiece of a stropping video, I have been sharpening for the past 5 years and also been sharpening 1000s of kitchen knifes for customers. This is perfect as it both affirmatives what I do know but also which details I should look further into to improve stropping. The last section just proves why strops are just amazing for maintaining sharpness, mindblowing to see how it actually looks like up close
I know from that in machining using diamond tools on steel almost immidiatelly makes the diamond dissolve into the steel hence why CBN is used. How come this doesn't happen in stones or stropping compounds, is it just the difference in temperature or is it something else?
Because there no heat generated at slow speeds. Heat and pressure is what causes that
Maybe it's temperature. I don't know. However, diamond abrasives are ubiquitous in the steel sharpening world. HOWEVER, CBN wheels are the preferred abrasive for sharpening knives on wheels. (Bench grinder style wheels for sharpening.) Diamond wheels "load up," CBN wheels don't.
I really look forward to your videos no matter how long. Everything you recommend seems to get sold out very quickly. I have bought almost everything you recommend and everything was great. Thank you for another excellent video.
I've watched this video about 3 times now. I ordered some leather, some diamond compound, 220-320 grit sandpaper, and a jeweler's loupe. I assume Lowe's can cut a piece of wood to match the leather dimensions. I am excited about having knives that are really, really sharp (it's a "man thing"). Plus, I am fascinated with diamond compound as, frankly, I didn't know it even existed until this video.
I've just ordered mine, has yours come yet and how have you found it to work with?
@@jamianrhynehart-ge4uh Mine came, but width-wise, it is much thinner than I had thought it would be (I should have looked at the measurements more carefully, so my bad). I decided to stick with pre-made strops I got online. I did, however, buy some "Stroppy Stuff" (0.5 micron). It does work, I can happily say. My knives are shaving sharp.
@mark91345 that's great to hear, I just ordered a 4pack of diamond compound from jenge with different grits so will let you know how they go as 1 of the vials is as much as 600,000grit 0.025 micron
Best channel for learning how to sharpen. Best, fellow knife sharpener 😁👍🏻
Man, your videos, the depth of knowledge I'm getting here, awesome. And you're helping me make and buy the stuff all the way to having links. Dude, Thank you, a bunch!
Super channel with super video. Thanks! I can't imagine how long it would take to understand and get a feel for this solely via fora or other youtubers' confusing and incomplete videos
A really very good touch of humor to offset how easy and excellent the Sharpal sharpener is. Wickedly sharp, durable, and idiot proof (mostly) technique. Kudos for the person doing thecamera work. Thanks. GB
Your camera work is incredible and offers visual proof of what you're saying. Thank you.
Thank you so much. You answered every question I ever had about stropping.
Thanks to your detailed videos, I actually managed to sharpen my first knife ever (freehand). Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, I truly appreciate it ! 🤝🏻👍🏻
You are awesome you're videos are just plain great ! Thanks for all your hard work on our behalf!
Does anyone know we’re I can get the apex edge at and the handle
your videos are killing it great job brotha
Thanks! Appreciate it🙏 Same to you 👍👍
Time flies when you have an accurate and interesting explanation. Thank you !
This was a perfect length video for me. It was all necessary information and no extra fat. Awesome content!! ✌🏼
I can barely sharpen a pencil, knives are often sharper before I start than when finished. Yet I can straight edged tool scary sharp. This guy is awesome
Thanks to this video, I finally got a knife sharp enough to wittle hair. Never knew it was so simple, with a little practice
Hey, just a random thought but do you think it'd be possible to sharpen a knife with a laser cnc or setup, which could carve and cut to a thousandths of an inch?
I mean, it seems theoretically possible, but the setup involved would be incredibly prohibitive. Unless you have a 4 or 5 axis CNC?
Also, there's the problem of the laser charring where the beam begins, might royally mess up the fine edge of the blade.
What I've learned is you can buy whatever sharpening kit, whatever strop, and it will all do realitivly the same as long as you know what you are doing. I've spent a lot of money on sharpening tools, and I just can not get angles correctly. no matter how long I spend on a knife it comes out dull and with real big bur. I am currently practicing on a worksharp ken onion and using low - mid grade steels to practice.
As usual, good job in your explanations. The more I watch, the more I learn.
Thanks very much for the video, all the way from Ireland! Your videos inspired me to pick up some stones back in November. Still have a ways to go, but happy enough with my results. Keep up the good work, very informative stuff, easy to watch and understand.
About 10 or 12 years ago I bought a slate stone from a carpenter in Ireland. I used it for straight razors. I think it was about 10 or 15,000-grit.
One of the best and most visually convincing I have seen!!! Great advice
Can you recommend another compound, that one is no longer available?
Been a fan for years! Love you dude, great video. Thank you
When you use a 220 grid sandpaper to recondition your strop, don't you contaminate your lether with huge particles?
This man is a god of sharpening 🙏
Exactly what i need,down 2 earth explanation...way 2 go! 👍
dude, I've been sharpening knifes with those roller popular swedish store thingies and I actually wondered how those thingies actually made a steel knife from same store worse. After striking upon your videos I've decided that it is finally time to stop slacking and research how to sharpen knifes properly and I've bought 400 grit sharpener which I believe could be even the same you've shown in this video. Knifes are actually sharp now! And they even pass paper cutting test flawlessly.
I do still struggle to get them sharp enough to shave, but I do believe that 400 grit to 1000 grit sharpening leaves some bur and was looking into those magic things you use to finish the sharpen - the strops. I'll now just make my own, thank you so much!
Do you recommend finishing stropping on the smooth side of the leather without compound, or do you find that you get the best result with stropping with compound only?
You can definitely do that. I've found it more cleans the edge but doesn't do much otherwise. But it would also depend on the leather.
I still have my Knife Point strops. 1 micron and 3 micron diamond goo. Love 'em!
Ace video, thanks for taking the time to make this. I learn so much from you 😊
12:27 Wood glue absolutely does reliably work, but you have to prepare the surfaces appropriately.
Interesting, I've never had it reliably hold over time. 👍
@@OUTDOORS55 Here are the steps I use:
Lightly abrade the two mating surfaces with some coarse sand paper, clean well-tack cloth/vacuum/acetone/mineral spirits/alcohol (generally your preference, just do a decent job).
Let dry.
Before applying the glue wet both abraded surfaces with water (this is not for foaming glue), you can generally add ~20% water to glue without affecting glue strength and many glue joint failures occur because the standard preparations of glue are to thick/concentrated.
Apply the glue to the wetted surfaces and spread evenly. There should be sufficient water on the surface that when the glue is applied it starts to obviously self-level at the edges of the bead and spread very easily with your finger but not so thin that when left for a moment that the glue draws together leaving the appearance of holes/voids in the glue.
Mate the two glued surfaces and slide back and forth to tack the glue a little and ensure good contact.
Clamp the leather to the strop-I use a piece of MDF for a flat surface and clamp it in a vise. Glue should be visible around all the edges. Wipe off excess.
Let cure for at least an hour.
Trim leather/plane the wood as desired.
Is DMT paste ok to use as i can't get your recomended emulsion in the uk. Great vid really appreciate your knowledge 💯
It's definitely better than the $1 stuff being sold. Just remember to apply a VERY small amount!
@@OUTDOORS55 Thanks Alex 👍
Recently started stropping, yup makes a difference :)