Wow! For us novices, the methodical detail and great camera positions make this a very special video indeed. I am now subscribed and will be looking through the archive for more of the same. Kudos, sir and the missus.
Great tutorial- and your wife is definitely the voice of reason for sure!!! When I was learning this stuff a couple years ago I'd be saying 'Thank God for her slowing you down so I can follow!!"
Schrodingers Box Ha ha slowing me down! Yeah Matt, the wife has accused me of going too fast. I hope that you and the family have been doing well. It’s been a long time and no need to be a stranger. 😀 thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment! 👍
All good explanations. Quick method= drop a cotter pin across relay, no start, pull back seat. No 12V+ or- drop GEM module.With 12V+ and - drop pump. This is a good daignostic but long winded. If you are not sure about pressure pull the pcv and give it a sniff of gas.
@@stuzman52I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0 v6, no crank no start. It starts by jumping the 12 volts at the starter relay. I've figured out that the pcm is not sending the ground to the starter relay when I turn the key. ( Every once in a while it will start with the key, but most times nothing.) All wiring integrity is good. All grounds are good. Any thoughts?
@@happywrenching33 Maybe, the PCM is not getting all of its inputs to enable a crank condition. How about the PRNDL? And I assume that you don't have a wiring diagram for the car. Here is a link to one which says it's for a 2005 Ford Escape, 3.0L. Maybe this can help. www.justanswer.com/uploads/muddyford/2008-04-08_134213_1.png
@@stuzman52 Thanks for responding. I bought an Escape diagram and that's what I was thinking but it is getting 12volt input from the transmission range sensor to the pcm connector, just not getting the ground as the output. All the 12 volt stuff checked out as far as ignition switch etc. It has me miffed lol.
Thanks so lot for your explanation and all the electrical schemas.. I have always wondering why the problem is the fuel-pump and might not be the relay or just a simpe fuze.. Most other youtube just show us how to change the Fuel-pump.. Not how-to-diagnos to ensure the problem is fuel-pump and not electrical issue.. thanks again.. My hats off to you.
You were recommended by Matt at Schrodinger's Box and I really enjoyed your explanation and dumbing down the whole process. I also appreciate that your wife is doing such a good job video recording the whole process. Will def check out your other videos.
I've known Matt for quite a few years now and we've collaborated on few topics of automotive stuff. Welcome to the channel and hope you find the videos interesting. Have a great evening Shaker!
So, this is my first time watching one of your videos...and from beginning I'm wondering what is /was this gentlemen's day job? 'background? and experience? You definitely have a love and a gift for this and thank you for sharing it! One of my instructors would say "how can you answer the question if you do not understand the question". Yes it is amazing what you can do "with-out" anything but armed with logic, a test light, an ammeter and the schematics. You can solve just about any problem on any any subject...these skills are applicable to all!. thank you be safe and Happy new Year!
Thank you Martin for the kind comment! I'm retired now, but when I started out, I worked at Sylvania as a color TV troubleshooter. Then I moved into the industrial field of being a electrician/mechanic working on automated equipment in a range of industries such as textile, bakeries, pharmaceutical, electrical connector manufacturer and the list goes on. After several degrees of going to college, I became an electrical engineer for automation controls equipment. Along the way, I've run an electrical contracting firm where I'm a licensed electrical contractor. Also, I've worked as a refrigerant technician and have a certification in Mobile, section 609 and three certifications in sections 608 of the EPA. Yep, just takes a little thinking and some logic and you can solve a lot of problems. Thanks again Martin and wishing you and your family a Super Great Happy New Year!
I had fuel pump as the culprit...Nice run thru the diagnostics procedure..I'm like your carpark diagnosis...Fuel pump relay clicks and Fuel pump makes no prime noise then the pump is done...The magic numbers in the loto are 30,85,86,& 87..
Great video Terry ! Very good explanation on your diagnosis . I no what you mean about the weather we haven't been above 28 degrees in several days. That's ruff on us southern boys ☺
Started slower than I’m used too but EXCELLENT video overall!!! Learned a lot . Some people say I Need slow down with explanations, I share your “struggle” ha
Hey Dave! I had to review the video to see what you were talking about. You'll be surprised of how many don't know the purpose of that resistor :) Thanks Dave for dropping in and watching the video and for sharing a comment!
Thank you Sir and Ma'am for a very educational video, your information and knowledge was very helpful and gave me a peice of mind that changing my fuel pump was the correct decision. Thanks again for such an informative video!🙏!
Nice walk through! My good lady indoors is also a " persian gem of a princess" ( Soraya) which by the way as i watched your video gained the attention of my young daughter hearing mammys name spoken on a RUclips video,lol
Typey1 that’s very nice to hear and I’m sure that your wife has a good heart also. That’s pretty funny that your daughter heard her mama’s name mentioned. 😀👍
20.46 87A can be used when de-energized to ground out a second relay in the case of a reversing DC motor using one switch. Mercury trim/ tilt motor, same relay or hi/low speed fans. If you take the relay apart there is a contact point on the back side of that switch.
for standard rotary fuel pumps sometimes you can figure out how to shock them back to life by running them backwards (as they might get a little gunk stuck in the rotor) to at least get you home. Like in this case if you had a couple of those small test lead jumpers you could have reversed polarity at the fuel pump connector under the rear seat back and forth a few times with the relay jumped to see if you could break it loose.
Nice video Terry showing your viewers how to diagnose a bad fuel pump. You missed your chance to crank no start and then break out the Brakleen and show how it starts right up...Eric would be smiling. Keep the videos coming Terry and Happy 2018!
Hayward's Automotive that’s true Bob that I could’ve broke out the brake cleaner or some propane, but I was just trying to focus on the diagnostic part of the electrical. The video was getting long as it was. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment with us. 😀👍
Yea I know! I just did a 97 Ford F-150 fuel pump on my neighbor's truck as a Christmas gift...passing it forward. It was 27 degrees outside in his driveway so it was a fast diagnosis, moved the bed back, changed the pump and secured the bed...cold makes me work really fast HAHA
Now that was a nice gift Bob to help out your neighbor, and I know what you mean when you work fast when it's cold. We're waking up to 8F temps now in the morning. And with the wind blowing, damn, it's COLD....
No supertech here mate another fantastic video should definitely help people out there very thorough then relay testers are fantastic use them all the time
bodgit and leggit garage don’t cut yourself short Leon as you’re right there at the top 😀 And you’re right that those relay adapters are a real timesaver. 👍
Excellent job with the diagnostics Terry, it doesn't get any better than how you described the process. Now I know what to do. lol Happy New Year to you and the Mrs.
Thank you Derek for the kind comment. I've never been a professional teacher, but I have taught many electricians, mechanics and electrical engineers with the work I've done in the past.
Hi sir awesome verry useful video I found you by Mat schodring box chunnel your student so you can count me as your student student you tow are the best Thanks for all your help.
You could check the amps at the inertia switch Jim, but let's take a look at the scenario with the voltage which could get you into trouble. You put your voltmeter positive lead on the inertia switch, let's say on the load side of the switch. Now where does your common lead of the voltmeter go. On a metal bracket somewhere under the dash, maybe. And you get 12VDC. And is the fuel pump running? Let's say it's not running. What do we know for sure! There isn't an open in the positive side of the circuit upstream from our test point. Why? Because without any amps, we don't know about any corrosion upstream from our test point. And what about downstream from our test point; we don't have a clue. As far as we know, the positive wire going to the pump could be open. Now, let's go back to the common lead of the voltmeter which is connected to the metal bracket. All we know for sure is that the ground path at that point is good, but that doesn't tell us anything about the ground actually going to the pump. To be 100% sure, you have to be as close to the load, (fuel pump) as possible when you're making your voltage checks, and you have to have current flowing through the wires to measure voltage drop which would show any corrosion. Hope that helps out!
stuzman thanks for the wonderful comment. Yes, your response helps out and I agree that you want to be as close to the load as possible when testing. My original thought, testing at the shutoff switch, was suggested due to every FORD I’ve owned had the shutoff switch in the trunk close to the FP. it sounds like this may not be the case with your MY. None-the-less, I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply back and equally important your well thought out explanation of the schematic. it sounds like your in the colder part of the country. Us folks out west really have no clue or understanding of Winter.
14:47 It should be pointed out that reversing the relay (turning upside down) will run the hot side through the coil (BAD for health) although not with this particular relay.
Great explanation as always. The use of the headlight bulb instead of a test light was because you needed more amp draw correct? I never fully understood the reason for this when I see Eric O doing it. Could you please explain why it's better to test things this way? Thanks
Thank you very much! It's always a good idea to have a load such as the headlight bulb to simulate closely what the actual load would draw. The reason is that it will give you a better indication of the brightness of the bulb with hidden circuit resistance. I could give you examples of the differences between a regular test light and using a headlight, but my friend Dave did a video on this very subject of where he explains it well. Check out this video and hopefully will answer your question. ruclips.net/video/NjECmrybzyU/видео.html And if you like to see how the voltages and currents fall between a testlight and a headlight with various hidden resistances from 0 to 1500 Ohms in 50 Ohm increments, shoot me your email through a private message and I'll send you an Excel file that I created.
Hi there Mr so I take the fuel pump relay out and crank the truck and it runs for a while the gas in rail runs out I put the fuel pump relay back in and it just cranks won't turn on but only when I remove the relay it would run.
Remove the fuel pump relay and with a test light, confirm that the light comes (connected to the coil terminals) on for two seconds when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. If that looks good, crank the engine to verify that the test light remains on while cranking. Let me know how that goes.
Good day sir! The easiest way is to use a bi-directional scanner to operate the canister vent solenoid. If you don't have a scanner, then it's going to be more involved to check the wiring from the PCM to the valve. You'll have to refer to the wiring diagrams for your vehicle. Typically, one side of the valve is fed a B+ voltage through a fuse and will be hot when the ignition is in the run or start condition. You should be able to check this with a test light. The other wire will be pulled to ground by the PCM when it wants to activate the solenoid through a system check. This is where you have to look at the wiring diagram for the canister vent solenoid and see which connector and pin provides this ground from the PCM. Disconnect this connector, find the appropriate pin and provide a ground to it. You should be able to hear the valve click off and on as you remove and reapply the ground test lead. This will check the valve electrically, but keep in mind that mechanically the valve may not be sealing when activated. You should be able to blow through it while activating the valve to see if it's closed when activated and open when it's not activated. Have a great day!
I can clearly hear the fuel pump running but still no fuel to the engine. Car was parked after driving back from a front end impact. Radiator has been replaced and now no start. Supposedly the inertia switch has been reset but not replaced. I am leaning towards just replacing the inertia switch but hard to tell. Any help would be great 2003 ford escape.
If you can hear the fuel pump run, then your inertia switch is okay. Maybe your fuel pump is bad even though you can hear it run. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if there is any pressure.
Murle Campbell Murie, I want to say yes, but I’m sure there is always an exception somewhere. Usually when you see the number 30, that means B+ feed and 87 means the terminal for the load which in this case is the fuel pump.
I got a 2008 Ford Escape crank no start I’ve changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil, starter wire and still crank no start
Sorry alteven44 for the delay as RUclips did not contact me. I don't have the car now as I sold it, but from memory it has a heater inside it which can be checked with an ohmmeter.
So the pump was stuck and at 19 amps it's getting a bit warm there eh :) Nice schematics to follow along with. And why they never have a CEL for a fuel pump fault . I bet VW does. LOL
STEVE ROB REVIEWS it would be nice Steve if the computer could tell you exactly what was wrong. And VW letting you know what’s wrong! Now that’s a funny one! 😀👍
+stuzman actually its amazing how much you can learn from youtube, unfortunately a lot more than i learned in my school, you should only find the right channels and yours is definitely on my top list! Take care Engineer!
Hello, when you say constant power, you need to be a little more descriptive with your question. Are you saying that you have B+ on terminals 85 and 86. Or do you have B+ on 86 and ground on 85? In other words, do you have B+ and ground on the relay coil for the fuel pump relay?
@@stuzman52 Sorry for my lack of experience & communication, When I do my test just like you at 22:30 on your video I get constant power it does not shut off after 2-4 second prime. It stays on until I turn the key off.
@@duartmotorsport9582 Hi Duart! Now I understand. Yes, if you're across the coil terminals as shown in the video and you turn the ignition on, you should get about a 2 second light. When you turn the ignition off, you're obviously turning off the B+ ignition voltage. So, that means you have an issue with the ground that's being provided by the PCM. That ground wire is either shorted to the vehicle ground which could be the engine block, frame, etc. or the PCM has a shorted driver which provides the ground. To verify which one, unplug all the connectors from the PCM. You could unplug the connector which provides this ground from the PCM, but I don't know which one without looking at the diagram. With your test light, connect it to B+ on the battery and the other end to the ground terminal where the relay was. If it lights, you have a grounded wire. If it doesn't then you have an issue with a shorted driver in the PCM. Good luck on what you find and have a great day!
OK I unplugged all the connectors to the PCM attached test light to battery positive (B+) and the other end to the ground terminal for the fuel pump relay and the light came on. So now I'm chasing a ground wire issue correct? How do I go about finding which wire it is? (on a side note the battery has had a on again off again issue with charging if that helps, I found when I pulled on the B+ cable and moved it slightly the issue with not charging the battery subsided)
every mechanics dream - a wife that actually takes an interest in her partners work. she probably has learnt quite a bit over the years. if i talk cars to my wife her eyes begin to glaze over.
I just asked her if she's learned a lot over the years and she said yes. And it looks like she can retain the information too as I asked her a question about a job we did in the past. It sure does help when you have someone that has an interest. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment!
You know what would make a great video ? Have your wife diagnose a problem while you do the filming. That would be quite unique and worthy of watching. Anyhow, love your detailed explanations on the operation of circuits - you leave no stone un-turned and it's hard to find that level from others on you tube but quite necessary to fully comprehend todays complex automotive circuits. Your analysis into the VW Jetta doorlock operation some time ago was epic and worthy of an academy award and included a ton more info than a repair manual with its poor operation description of circuits could ever dream to offer. Same with the hall switch operation. There are those of us who are exactly aware of how much research you have undertaken to understand their operation which in turn serves to benefit people like myself. Einstein once said ' teach me something as though I were a six year old ' . What he was saying was if you can make the six year old understand difficult concepts then you were doing the job correctly. Keep up the great work Terry. regards
You're right Marinko that if I could get the wife to do a video describing circuit operation and diagnostics would be a great video :) I've already tried that in the past and she refuses to be on camera and is satisfied being in the background. But I do try to get her to participate by asking her questions that a viewer may ask. As you may know, most people couldn't care less about how things work and you can count yourself as one of the few people out there who are genuinely curious about how the world works. I've always wanted to know how things worked from the time I was six years old such as tearing apart my Dad's old carburetors and putting them back together. Or taking apart my battery operated toys to see how they worked. I appreciate your kind words about the videos pertaining to the details of operation such as the door lock module and the Hall-Effect sensor's operation. But as I mentioned, most people couldn't care less. And for the most part, I get the fewest views and comments on these types of videos which goes into technical details. And these types of videos are the hardest to produce because of researching the topic to ensure that the information is correct. And this makes it harder to come up with interesting videos for the viewers. Since I retired in January of this year, I've got a lot of free time now to do more technical, (educational videos) and have been acquiring some parts to discuss a topic. I thought of doing the classwork stuff first and then will do experiments to illustrate what the theory says. I don't want to give away the topic yet, but that's what I think will be the next video series and I'm not sure about how many parts it will be. I'm still tossing around the ideas of how it will be laid out. I'm sure it won't be popular with people and I've decided that's okay. At least I'll be able to hear myself talk :)) Thanks again Marinko for all the kind words, and I wish you and your family the sincerest happiness and success in whatever you go after. Terry
You're right Marinko that if I could get the wife to do a video describing circuit operation and diagnostics would be a great video :) I've already tried that in the past and she refuses to be on camera and is satisfied being in the background. But I do try to get her to participate by asking her questions that a viewer may ask. As you may know, most people couldn't care less about how things work and you can count yourself as one of the few people out there who are genuinely curious about how the world works. I've always wanted to know how things worked from the time I was six years old such as tearing apart my Dad's old carburetors and putting them back together. Or taking apart my battery operated toys to see how they worked. I appreciate your kind words about the videos pertaining to the details of operation such as the door lock module and the Hall-Effect sensor's operation. But as I mentioned, most people couldn't care less. And for the most part, I get the fewest views and comments on these types of videos which goes into technical details. And these types of videos are the hardest to produce because of researching the topic to ensure that the information is correct. And this makes it harder to come up with interesting videos for the viewers. Oh, and I knew about Einstein in his statement saying that if you really understand a topic, then you should be able to explain it to a six year old child where he can understand it. Believe it not, I try to keep this in mind when I'm doing a technical video. And sometimes, I find out that I really don't understand the subject :)) Okay, that means more research! Since I retired in January of this year, I've got a lot of free time now to do more technical, (educational videos) and have been acquiring some parts to discuss a topic. I thought of doing the classwork stuff first and then will do experiments to illustrate what the theory says. I don't want to give away the topic yet, but that's what I think will be the next video series and I'm not sure about how many parts it will be. I'm still tossing around the ideas of how it will be laid out. I'm sure it won't be popular with people and I've decided that's okay. At least I'll be able to hear myself talk :)) Thanks again Marinko for all the kind words, and I wish you and your family the sincerest happiness and success in whatever you go after. Terry
Hi there thank you replying back wasn't expected, ok here we hope you ready 😀 I have a 2001 ford escape 3.0 v6, the truck was running all of a sudden it dies ok I went straight to pump changed it out and nothing then I was you kno maybe a clogged catalytic converter nothing at the end of the day here's were iam at new egr ,mass air flow ,alternator new fuel pump changed out ecm crank ,cam new spark plugs fuel rail.still cranks won't stay running at first you will crank it was running but once you try to give it gas it will die.any ideas headed to the right direction please.
@@doctorauto4923 That's a lot of parts to be changed on guessing. Go back to the basics and see if you've got fuel, spark, etc. I would start with the fuel since you say it starts but will die when you give it the gas. You could spray a little starter fluid, brake clean, propane, etc. into the intake air induction hose and then see if will start. If it runs for a few seconds, then you'll have an issue with the fuel system. I would start there.
Yes I kno we have spark good compression on each of the cylinders good fuel compression I did notice a drop off voltage at the fuel fump at the battery I had 12v at the fuse box 11 then at the fuel pump I had a 9 voltage.
@@doctorauto4923 Having 9V at the pump seems a little low. I would start to see where the voltage is dropped. I'm assuming that you have a wiring diagram for your vehicle.
Thanks for the video. There are 2 other possibilities you left out that could be the cause of no fuel the first one is at 7:00 minutes in this linked video ruclips.net/video/C7lf_srqDSE/видео.html and the second one is at 9:45 in this linked video ruclips.net/video/KfSeUcqf5zY/видео.html hope it helps you or someone else.
Wow! For us novices, the methodical detail and great camera positions make this a very special video indeed. I am now subscribed and will be looking through the archive for more of the same. Kudos, sir and the missus.
Thank you very much!
Great tutorial- and your wife is definitely the voice of reason for sure!!! When I was learning this stuff a couple years ago I'd be saying 'Thank God for her slowing you down so I can follow!!"
Schrodingers Box Ha ha slowing me down! Yeah Matt, the wife has accused me of going too fast. I hope that you and the family have been doing well. It’s been a long time and no need to be a stranger. 😀 thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment! 👍
Thank you so much for the details!!! I'm not a mechanic, but I have to keep my vehicles running and your video was absolutely perfect!!!!
Hi Yvette and glad to hear the videos have helped you out! Have a great day!
All good explanations. Quick method= drop a cotter pin across relay, no start, pull back seat. No 12V+ or- drop GEM module.With 12V+ and - drop pump. This is a good daignostic but long winded. If you are not sure about pressure pull the pcv and give it a sniff of gas.
Thanks for sharing Max!
@@stuzman52I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0 v6, no crank no start. It starts by jumping the 12 volts at the starter relay. I've figured out that the pcm is not sending the ground to the starter relay when I turn the key. ( Every once in a while it will start with the key, but most times nothing.) All wiring integrity is good. All grounds are good. Any thoughts?
@@happywrenching33 Maybe, the PCM is not getting all of its inputs to enable a crank condition. How about the PRNDL? And I assume that you don't have a wiring diagram for the car. Here is a link to one which says it's for a 2005 Ford Escape, 3.0L. Maybe this can help. www.justanswer.com/uploads/muddyford/2008-04-08_134213_1.png
@@stuzman52 Thanks for responding. I bought an Escape diagram and that's what I was thinking but it is getting 12volt input from the transmission range sensor to the pcm connector, just not getting the ground as the output. All the 12 volt stuff checked out as far as ignition switch etc. It has me miffed lol.
@@happywrenching33Send me a pdf file of the starting circuit and I can take a look. Email address is stuzman52@gmail.com
Thanks so lot for your explanation and all the electrical schemas.. I have always wondering why the problem is the fuel-pump and might not be the relay or just a simpe fuze.. Most other youtube just show us how to change the Fuel-pump.. Not how-to-diagnos to ensure the problem is fuel-pump and not electrical issue.. thanks again.. My hats off to you.
Thanks Tri and glad the video helped out and have a great day!
You were recommended by Matt at Schrodinger's Box and I really enjoyed your explanation and dumbing down the whole process. I also appreciate that your wife is doing such a good job video recording the whole process. Will def check out your other videos.
I've known Matt for quite a few years now and we've collaborated on few topics of automotive stuff. Welcome to the channel and hope you find the videos interesting. Have a great evening Shaker!
So, this is my first time watching one of your videos...and from beginning I'm wondering what is /was this gentlemen's day job? 'background? and experience? You definitely have a love and a gift for this and thank you for sharing it! One of my instructors would say "how can you answer the question if you do not understand the question". Yes it is amazing what you can do "with-out" anything but armed with logic, a test light, an ammeter and the schematics. You can solve just about any problem
on any any subject...these skills are applicable to all!. thank you be safe and Happy new Year!
Thank you Martin for the kind comment! I'm retired now, but when I started out, I worked at Sylvania as a color TV troubleshooter. Then I moved into the industrial field of being a electrician/mechanic working on automated equipment in a range of industries such as textile, bakeries, pharmaceutical, electrical connector manufacturer and the list goes on. After several degrees of going to college, I became an electrical engineer for automation controls equipment. Along the way, I've run an electrical contracting firm where I'm a licensed electrical contractor. Also, I've worked as a refrigerant technician and have a certification in Mobile, section 609 and three certifications in sections 608 of the EPA. Yep, just takes a little thinking and some logic and you can solve a lot of problems. Thanks again Martin and wishing you and your family a Super Great Happy New Year!
Excellent video Terry .You and your wife covered all angles.Very clear and have a nice day.
Thank you very much hector and y8ou have a great day too!
Love the detail you and how it was described I showed my son and he loves it so did I thank you soo much for being able to take time doing this video
You are quite welcome and have a great day!
As usual Terry your presentation is over the top. Thank you for your time . Stay warm and Happy New Year.
Thank you very much George and you be sure to stay warm, (guessing you're in a cold climate) and a Happy New Year to you and your family also!
I had fuel pump as the culprit...Nice run thru the diagnostics procedure..I'm like your carpark diagnosis...Fuel pump relay clicks and Fuel pump makes no prime noise then the pump is done...The magic numbers in the loto are 30,85,86,& 87..
ZIGgassedUP thank you very much Zig and also for your comment! 😀👍
Great video Terry ! Very good explanation on your diagnosis . I no what you mean about the weather we haven't been above 28 degrees in several days. That's ruff on us southern boys ☺
Every aspect explored and explained. Has to be 10 outta 10. Happy New Year, Terry and Soraya !!
Tom OConnor hey Tom and thank you very much! And a happy new year to you and your family also. 😀👍
A very thorough tutorial Terry.
Always remember, as she says... the wife goes first 😀
One Auto, you caught that too Rob! She’s a funny gal but a good one. 😀👍
Very nice presentation how fuel pump circuit works. Thank you for your time to share this with us. Cheers
KY Home Garage KY Home Garage Thank you Ramon for taking the time to watch the video and for sharing a comment! 😀👍
Started slower than I’m used too but EXCELLENT video overall!!! Learned a lot . Some people say I Need slow down with explanations, I share your “struggle” ha
Thank you hilipower for sharing a comment!
Very comprehensive Terry and lots of info to learn from. Looks like you need new plugs and wires... I mean a fuel pump 🤣
Badgertronix Ha ha Jonathan! That’s a good one, and why didn’t I think of plugs and wires before. 😀😀👍
Oh, Terry, you answered a question I've wondered about for decades, at 5:27. Thanks!
Hey Dave! I had to review the video to see what you were talking about. You'll be surprised of how many don't know the purpose of that resistor :) Thanks Dave for dropping in and watching the video and for sharing a comment!
Excellent education video. Keep up the good work .We are learning from your Channel. God Bless
Thank you Hanif! I appreciate it!!
Thank you Sir and Ma'am for a very educational video, your information and knowledge was very helpful and gave me a peice of mind that changing my fuel pump was the correct decision.
Thanks again for such an informative video!🙏!
Sorry for the delay Lopati as RUclips did not notify me. You're quite welcomed!
Top notch thorough troubleshooting video. 👌
Thank you very much Nick and have a great day!
Nice walk through! My good lady indoors is also a " persian gem of a princess" ( Soraya) which by the way as i watched your video gained the attention of my young daughter hearing mammys name spoken on a RUclips video,lol
Typey1 that’s very nice to hear and I’m sure that your wife has a good heart also. That’s pretty funny that your daughter heard her mama’s name mentioned. 😀👍
20.46 87A can be used when de-energized to ground out a second relay in the case of a reversing DC motor using one switch. Mercury trim/ tilt motor, same relay or hi/low speed fans. If you take the relay apart there is a contact point on the back side of that switch.
for standard rotary fuel pumps sometimes you can figure out how to shock them back to life by running them backwards (as they might get a little gunk stuck in the rotor) to at least get you home.
Like in this case if you had a couple of those small test lead jumpers you could have reversed polarity at the fuel pump connector under the rear seat back and forth a few times with the relay jumped to see if you could break it loose.
Thanks for the reply and have a great day!
Nice video Terry showing your viewers how to diagnose a bad fuel pump. You missed your chance to crank no start and then break out the Brakleen and show how it starts right up...Eric would be smiling. Keep the videos coming Terry and Happy 2018!
Hayward's Automotive that’s true Bob that I could’ve broke out the brake cleaner or some propane, but I was just trying to focus on the diagnostic part of the electrical. The video was getting long as it was. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment with us. 😀👍
Yea I know! I just did a 97 Ford F-150 fuel pump on my neighbor's truck as a Christmas gift...passing it forward. It was 27 degrees outside in his driveway so it was a fast diagnosis, moved the bed back, changed the pump and secured the bed...cold makes me work really fast HAHA
Now that was a nice gift Bob to help out your neighbor, and I know what you mean when you work fast when it's cold. We're waking up to 8F temps now in the morning. And with the wind blowing, damn, it's COLD....
Happy New Year!
That pump (no longer turning) is now a fuel heater!
Keep'em coming Terry!!
Thomas EXOVCDS ha ha Thomas! That’s a good one and also very true! 😀👍
Bravo mister Pike! Great video. Just what I need. Hoping to see more of these. I wanna be an expert at diagnostics
Thank you very much and I have no doubt that you will be an expert! You have the passion to learn and that's all it takes :)
Great video you are a phenomenal teacher
Thank you Sam!
No supertech here mate another fantastic video should definitely help people out there very thorough then relay testers are fantastic use them all the time
bodgit and leggit garage don’t cut yourself short Leon as you’re right there at the top 😀 And you’re right that those relay adapters are a real timesaver. 👍
Excellent job with the diagnostics Terry, it doesn't get any better than how you described the process. Now I know what to do. lol Happy New Year to you and the Mrs.
Ozzstar thank you very much Glen but for you I know this is all very elementary stuff! And a very happy new year to you and your family also. 😀👍
+stuzman thank you Sir.
We need more of this informational videos.... thanks
For sure John!
This the best video I've seen very well explain
Thank you very much!
Thanks MR. Stuzman great video. The more detailed the instruction in electrical diagnostics the better in my opinion.
frosted flakes thank you very much for taking the time to watch the video and glad to hear that you liked it. 😀👍
Well said sir. My wife really appreciates how thorough you are. Are you a teacher? Were you in the past? Excellent explanation
Thank you Derek for the kind comment. I've never been a professional teacher, but I have taught many electricians, mechanics and electrical engineers with the work I've done in the past.
Very well explained by step.
Thank you very much!
Hi sir awesome verry useful video I found you by Mat schodring box chunnel your student so you can count me as your student student you tow are the best Thanks for all your help.
Thank you very much and I've known Matt for a few years now. He's a very knowledgeable gentleman and welcome to the channel!
Well done. Nice explanation! Why not just test.for DCV & Amps at the FP shutoff switch?
You could check the amps at the inertia switch Jim, but let's take a look at the scenario with the voltage which could get you into trouble. You put your voltmeter positive lead on the inertia switch, let's say on the load side of the switch. Now where does your common lead of the voltmeter go. On a metal bracket somewhere under the dash, maybe. And you get 12VDC. And is the fuel pump running? Let's say it's not running. What do we know for sure! There isn't an open in the positive side of the circuit upstream from our test point. Why? Because without any amps, we don't know about any corrosion upstream from our test point. And what about downstream from our test point; we don't have a clue. As far as we know, the positive wire going to the pump could be open. Now, let's go back to the common lead of the voltmeter which is connected to the metal bracket. All we know for sure is that the ground path at that point is good, but that doesn't tell us anything about the ground actually going to the pump. To be 100% sure, you have to be as close to the load, (fuel pump) as possible when you're making your voltage checks, and you have to have current flowing through the wires to measure voltage drop which would show any corrosion. Hope that helps out!
stuzman thanks for the wonderful comment. Yes, your response helps out and I agree that you want to be as close to the load as possible when testing. My original thought, testing at the shutoff switch, was suggested due to every FORD I’ve owned had the shutoff switch in the trunk close to the FP. it sounds like this may not be the case with your MY. None-the-less, I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply back and equally important your well thought out explanation of the schematic. it sounds like your in the colder part of the country. Us folks out west really have no clue or understanding of Winter.
Very good video Terry
well explained! thanks for taking the time to create these video.
Happy New Year to you guys
Thank you very much Abel and for taking the time to watch the video! And a happy New Year to you and your family also! :)
I learned some things from this video, great work.
Thank you Kenny and I'm glad to hear that you learned something from the video :))
14:47 It should be pointed out that reversing the relay (turning upside down) will run the hot side through the coil (BAD for health) although not with this particular relay.
Very good video .Well explained
Thank you very much!
You are great thank you for your electrical diagnostics.
michael loeffler you are welcome Michael and thanks for watching! 😀
Great explanation as always. The use of the headlight bulb instead of a test light was because you needed more amp draw correct? I never fully understood the reason for this when I see Eric O doing it. Could you please explain why it's better to test things this way? Thanks
Thank you very much! It's always a good idea to have a load such as the headlight bulb to simulate closely what the actual load would draw. The reason is that it will give you a better indication of the brightness of the bulb with hidden circuit resistance. I could give you examples of the differences between a regular test light and using a headlight, but my friend Dave did a video on this very subject of where he explains it well. Check out this video and hopefully will answer your question. ruclips.net/video/NjECmrybzyU/видео.html And if you like to see how the voltages and currents fall between a testlight and a headlight with various hidden resistances from 0 to 1500 Ohms in 50 Ohm increments, shoot me your email through a private message and I'll send you an Excel file that I created.
Thanks Terry. Dave's video helped a lot.
Love the video. Very detailed!
Glad to hear you like the video Lori!
Hi there Mr so I take the fuel pump relay out and crank the truck and it runs for a while the gas in rail runs out I put the fuel pump relay back in and it just cranks won't turn on but only when I remove the relay it would run.
Remove the fuel pump relay and with a test light, confirm that the light comes (connected to the coil terminals) on for two seconds when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. If that looks good, crank the engine to verify that the test light remains on while cranking. Let me know how that goes.
Very informative video thanks
Thank you very much!
Wonderful work, thank you!!!!!
Thank you Kent!
Great Video, well explained!
Thank you very much Bob!
Thank you sir, great video.
Mohamed Farah Thank you!
Great lesson thank you!
Thank you Big John for the comment!
BTW Terry, how about this evap vent solenoid in ford, how to check from pcm up to vent solenoid
Good day sir! The easiest way is to use a bi-directional scanner to operate the canister vent solenoid. If you don't have a scanner, then it's going to be more involved to check the wiring from the PCM to the valve. You'll have to refer to the wiring diagrams for your vehicle. Typically, one side of the valve is fed a B+ voltage through a fuse and will be hot when the ignition is in the run or start condition. You should be able to check this with a test light. The other wire will be pulled to ground by the PCM when it wants to activate the solenoid through a system check. This is where you have to look at the wiring diagram for the canister vent solenoid and see which connector and pin provides this ground from the PCM. Disconnect this connector, find the appropriate pin and provide a ground to it. You should be able to hear the valve click off and on as you remove and reapply the ground test lead. This will check the valve electrically, but keep in mind that mechanically the valve may not be sealing when activated. You should be able to blow through it while activating the valve to see if it's closed when activated and open when it's not activated. Have a great day!
Great Video I enjoyed it very much.
Thank you very much for watching the video and for leaving a comment!
I can clearly hear the fuel pump running but still no fuel to the engine. Car was parked after driving back from a front end impact. Radiator has been replaced and now no start. Supposedly the inertia switch has been reset but not replaced. I am leaning towards just replacing the inertia switch but hard to tell. Any help would be great 2003 ford escape.
If you can hear the fuel pump run, then your inertia switch is okay. Maybe your fuel pump is bad even though you can hear it run. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if there is any pressure.
@@stuzman52 If that does not fix the problem I am leaning towards timing chain jump. Not my vehicle but will report back.
nice tutorials especially for beginners BTW what autel model is your analyzer
alsteven44 Not sure what the model number is, but it’s the MaxiSys Elite version.
Stuzman......Without a wiring diagram, on any make , model car, is it Always 30 and 87 that are the load side of fuel pump? Thank you.....
Murle Campbell Murie, I want to say yes, but I’m sure there is always an exception somewhere. Usually when you see the number 30, that means B+ feed and 87 means the terminal for the load which in this case is the fuel pump.
Stealing your hammer that could cause a divorce🤣🤣🤣🤣
bodgit and leggit garage Yeah Leon, now I’ve got to wonder what else she has hidden from me! 😀😀
stuzman I am sorry but I can't tell you😁😁😁
Thnak you very much! Mr. Stuzman for your vid. Like of course
Antegas Hindoyan You are quite welcome and thank you very much! 😀👍
I got a 2008 Ford Escape crank no start I’ve changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil, starter wire and still crank no start
Terry, how do you check the heated pcv on this car
Sorry alteven44 for the delay as RUclips did not contact me. I don't have the car now as I sold it, but from memory it has a heater inside it which can be checked with an ohmmeter.
Hey she said she always comes first, this guy is GOOD lol.
Thanks for the comment!
So the pump was stuck and at 19 amps it's getting a bit warm there eh :) Nice schematics to follow along with. And why they never have a CEL for a fuel pump fault . I bet VW does. LOL
STEVE ROB REVIEWS it would be nice Steve if the computer could tell you exactly what was wrong. And VW letting you know what’s wrong! Now that’s a funny one! 😀👍
DEAR FRIEND I CHANGED MY 02 SENSOR 1BANK2 AND THE CODE COMES AFTER I SHUT THE CAR WHY? CAN YOU HELP ME . I LOVE MY ESCAPE
What is the code?
Yes Sir Thank you!
You know how to make educational videos Sir!
Thank you very much armando and glad that you liked the video and that you may have learned something from it! Glad to see that you left a comment!
+stuzman actually its amazing how much you can learn from youtube, unfortunately a lot more than i learned in my school, you should only find the right channels and yours is definitely on my top list! Take care Engineer!
Thank you very much armando for the kind words!
Thank you very much armando for the kind words!
what dos it mean if you have constant power between 85 & 86 (No 2 second prime)?
Hello, when you say constant power, you need to be a little more descriptive with your question. Are you saying that you have B+ on terminals 85 and 86. Or do you have B+ on 86 and ground on 85? In other words, do you have B+ and ground on the relay coil for the fuel pump relay?
@@stuzman52 Sorry for my lack of experience & communication, When I do my test just like you at 22:30 on your video I get constant power it does not shut off after 2-4 second prime. It stays on until I turn the key off.
@@duartmotorsport9582 Hi Duart! Now I understand. Yes, if you're across the coil terminals as shown in the video and you turn the ignition on, you should get about a 2 second light. When you turn the ignition off, you're obviously turning off the B+ ignition voltage. So, that means you have an issue with the ground that's being provided by the PCM. That ground wire is either shorted to the vehicle ground which could be the engine block, frame, etc. or the PCM has a shorted driver which provides the ground. To verify which one, unplug all the connectors from the PCM. You could unplug the connector which provides this ground from the PCM, but I don't know which one without looking at the diagram. With your test light, connect it to B+ on the battery and the other end to the ground terminal where the relay was. If it lights, you have a grounded wire. If it doesn't then you have an issue with a shorted driver in the PCM. Good luck on what you find and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thanks for the quick reply I will try this tomorrow and let you know what happens.
OK I unplugged all the connectors to the PCM attached test light to battery positive (B+) and the other end to the ground terminal for the fuel pump relay and the light came on. So now I'm chasing a ground wire issue correct? How do I go about finding which wire it is? (on a side note the battery has had a on again off again issue with charging if that helps, I found when I pulled on the B+ cable and moved it slightly the issue with not charging the battery subsided)
Where do you get the relay adapter?
Here's the kit that I'm using of where one of the adapter came from. www.amazon.com/Lisle-60660-Deluxe-Relay-Test/dp/B0070H5XHG
good video thanks !!
Thank you David!
every mechanics dream - a wife that actually takes an interest in her partners work. she probably has learnt quite a bit over the years. if i talk cars to my wife her eyes begin to glaze over.
I just asked her if she's learned a lot over the years and she said yes. And it looks like she can retain the information too as I asked her a question about a job we did in the past. It sure does help when you have someone that has an interest. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment!
You know what would make a great video ? Have your wife diagnose a problem while you do the filming. That would be quite unique and worthy of watching. Anyhow, love your detailed explanations on the operation of circuits - you leave no stone un-turned and it's hard to find that level from others on you tube but quite necessary to fully comprehend todays complex automotive circuits. Your analysis into the VW Jetta doorlock operation some time ago was epic and worthy of an academy award and included a ton more info than a repair manual with its poor operation description of circuits could ever dream to offer. Same with the hall switch operation. There are those of us who are exactly aware of how much research you have undertaken to understand their operation which in turn serves to benefit people like myself.
Einstein once said ' teach me something as though I were a six year old ' . What he was saying was if you can make the six year old understand difficult concepts then you were doing the job correctly. Keep up the great work Terry.
regards
You're right Marinko that if I could get the wife to do a video describing circuit operation and diagnostics would be a great video :) I've already tried that in the past and she refuses to be on camera and is satisfied being in the background. But I do try to get her to participate by asking her questions that a viewer may ask.
As you may know, most people couldn't care less about how things work and you can count yourself as one of the few people out there who are genuinely curious about how the world works. I've always wanted to know how things worked from the time I was six years old such as tearing apart my Dad's old carburetors and putting them back together. Or taking apart my battery operated toys to see how they worked.
I appreciate your kind words about the videos pertaining to the details of operation such as the door lock module and the Hall-Effect sensor's operation. But as I mentioned, most people couldn't care less. And for the most part, I get the fewest views and comments on these types of videos which goes into technical details. And these types of videos are the hardest to produce because of researching the topic to ensure that the information is correct. And this makes it harder to come up with interesting videos for the viewers.
Since I retired in January of this year, I've got a lot of free time now to do more technical, (educational videos) and have been acquiring some parts to discuss a topic. I thought of doing the classwork stuff first and then will do experiments to illustrate what the theory says. I don't want to give away the topic yet, but that's what I think will be the next video series and I'm not sure about how many parts it will be. I'm still tossing around the ideas of how it will be laid out. I'm sure it won't be popular with people and I've decided that's okay. At least I'll be able to hear myself talk :))
Thanks again Marinko for all the kind words, and I wish you and your family the sincerest happiness and success in whatever you go after. Terry
You're right Marinko that if I could get the wife to do a video describing circuit operation and diagnostics would be a great video :) I've already tried that in the past and she refuses to be on camera and is satisfied being in the background. But I do try to get her to participate by asking her questions that a viewer may ask.
As you may know, most people couldn't care less about how things work and you can count yourself as one of the few people out there who are genuinely curious about how the world works. I've always wanted to know how things worked from the time I was six years old such as tearing apart my Dad's old carburetors and putting them back together. Or taking apart my battery operated toys to see how they worked.
I appreciate your kind words about the videos pertaining to the details of operation such as the door lock module and the Hall-Effect sensor's operation. But as I mentioned, most people couldn't care less. And for the most part, I get the fewest views and comments on these types of videos which goes into technical details. And these types of videos are the hardest to produce because of researching the topic to ensure that the information is correct. And this makes it harder to come up with interesting videos for the viewers. Oh, and I knew about Einstein in his statement saying that if you really understand a topic, then you should be able to explain it to a six year old child where he can understand it. Believe it not, I try to keep this in mind when I'm doing a technical video. And sometimes, I find out that I really don't understand the subject :)) Okay, that means more research!
Since I retired in January of this year, I've got a lot of free time now to do more technical, (educational videos) and have been acquiring some parts to discuss a topic. I thought of doing the classwork stuff first and then will do experiments to illustrate what the theory says. I don't want to give away the topic yet, but that's what I think will be the next video series and I'm not sure about how many parts it will be. I'm still tossing around the ideas of how it will be laid out. I'm sure it won't be popular with people and I've decided that's okay. At least I'll be able to hear myself talk :))
Thanks again Marinko for all the kind words, and I wish you and your family the sincerest happiness and success in whatever you go after. Terry
Hi don't kno if you still on this channel I looking for some help on 2001 ford escape
Hi Doctor! What is your issue?
Hi there thank you replying back wasn't expected, ok here we hope you ready 😀 I have a 2001 ford escape 3.0 v6, the truck was running all of a sudden it dies ok I went straight to pump changed it out and nothing then I was you kno maybe a clogged catalytic converter nothing at the end of the day here's were iam at new egr ,mass air flow ,alternator new fuel pump changed out ecm crank ,cam new spark plugs fuel rail.still cranks won't stay running at first you will crank it was running but once you try to give it gas it will die.any ideas headed to the right direction please.
@@doctorauto4923 That's a lot of parts to be changed on guessing. Go back to the basics and see if you've got fuel, spark, etc. I would start with the fuel since you say it starts but will die when you give it the gas. You could spray a little starter fluid, brake clean, propane, etc. into the intake air induction hose and then see if will start. If it runs for a few seconds, then you'll have an issue with the fuel system. I would start there.
Yes I kno we have spark good compression on each of the cylinders good fuel compression I did notice a drop off voltage at the fuel fump at the battery I had 12v at the fuse box 11 then at the fuel pump I had a 9 voltage.
@@doctorauto4923 Having 9V at the pump seems a little low. I would start to see where the voltage is dropped. I'm assuming that you have a wiring diagram for your vehicle.
No final diognostics?
Not sure what you mean Joe as I'm pretty sure I covered all the diagnostics for the fuel pump.
I've got a 2001 that's a straight drive. No start, I want it fixed!!!
I'm sure John that you will get it fixed.
Who goes to a no start with no tools?
I guess I do!
Thanks for the video. There are 2 other possibilities you left out that could be the cause of no fuel the first one is at 7:00 minutes in this linked video ruclips.net/video/C7lf_srqDSE/видео.html and the second one is at 9:45 in this linked video ruclips.net/video/KfSeUcqf5zY/видео.html hope it helps you or someone else.