This helped a lot. My 93 died on me out of nowhere the other day. Got it towed to a shop. They're saying they want to replace the coil assembly and distributor...for $1700. Great to know I can trailer it back to my house and do it myself for about $100 in parts and an afternoon.
Yeah that sounds like a steep price. Wonder what the parts/labor breakdown is to come up with that number..... Just make sure you get the timing right, plenty of videos on that, honestly not rocket science.
@@paulkelley86 yeah that's the only thing I'm not 100% confident in. The rest of the job seems pretty basic nuts and bolts. Luckily I have a roommate that knows everything about cars and said he'd help with timing if it gives me any trouble. Thanks for the reply!
Damn I finally got my truck back from the shop, stuck a new distributor in (it looked exactly like the one in this video) and STILL no spark. Gonna try the coils next.
@@MikeCrocker if the shop charged you a diagnosis fee, you approved what they sold you, and it did not fix the problem... that's on the shop. That is the reason they, and I, charge a diagnosis fee. To perform tests to determine the root cause of the concern. But if you did not authorize the proposed work and towed it home, then guessed a distributor. That's on you. You should do some testing. Every wrong part is a waste of money. The purpose of this video is to downstate a simple test to help troubleshoot
@@paulkelley86 well to be fair they were transparent with what they were going to replace. They were going to do the distributor, ignition coil, and ignitor. The distributor got delivered this morning so I went ahead and threw it on, hoping it would fix the problem, but the ignition coil gets in this evening so I'll try that next. Volt meter read something from the ignitor so I'm hoping that's actually fine, as it seems hard to come by and expensive, but I guess I'll be one step closer once I get the coil on.
Found the exact same problem on my 1993 pickup. Checked under the cap first and there it was, a nest of magnet wire. Very first electrical issue in 28 years and 222285 mi. Thanks for this very helpful video.
I have the Exact same Truck a 1994 Toyota DLX Pickup I am going to your steps.. I have both No Spark and No Fuel. I will do this on the Ignitor and coil also the ECU .. This has me stumped. ... thank you for your great video..
replace the distributor & cap, ran fine for a couple weeks, the replaced the wires spark plug wires, it ran for about 5 miles, stopped at a gas station, and wouldn't start up again, it just cranks. I've since replaced the coil (still just cranks), anyone watching this video have a idea on what it is, I'm thinking faulty spark plug wires, but I don't know if its something I did, or just something else broke at this unexpected time. It's my first car and I'm 16... quite unexperienced but willing to learn
My advice to you would be to work your way away from throwing new parts in it and try to learn some testing/troubleshooting skills. If you like it you may consider looking for automotive training in your area, high school and beyond. If you are good at it, its a good career. If not, there are much easier professions.
Thankful for this vid. I was puzzled by the sudden failure of my 1993 Pickup Deluxe to start when everything seemed ok....but wasn’t once I removed the distributor’s cap. What I would like to know is why did that happen?
My 1993 just stopped on freeway but I was coming to a slow down and then when I tried to take off it felt like the engine shook bad like 4 or 5 times then stopped check distributer I think move but it was tight could it jump out of it timing just wondering
To get 12v reading on the wire that goes from the igniter to the coil, you turn the key to acc, then stick one multimeter probe into the sealant around a wire and the other probe on the battery or is it grounded to the body? Also for clarity the multimeter is set to DC 20. Watching this being done would be so much better than an explanation on a running vehicle.
I agree. I just had to get him going so fast the video was a second priority. If you have black lead on good ground (- batt or bare metal) and the positive reads 12v ish, you could simply move black lead onto negative of the coil and watch for 12 pulse. Since the red is on a known 12v, you are basically testing the ground pulse by watching for the 12v. Just saving a step. But can't argue with you.
Great vid this helped me a lot. Opened my dizzy and saw the copper just like the one jn the vid. Ive replaced alt, dizzy, coil, and icm. Fuel is coming out the cold start bolt but unsure what the fuel pressure is. Any ideas on what else i should do? Throwinf money into parts isnt gonna fix it at this point
You sure you got the distributor timed? And verify spark. My advice is always to test rather than throw parts. You are ahead of the game if you realize that now. I like that you have checked for fuel, I would probably say that's OK for now, don't stress the pressure. If you ever wanted to know for sure, spray some carb or brake clean in the intake. If it fires up for a second, it wasn't getting fuel. I would pursue the spark. Timing and actually sparking. If you are sure it is good then I would check compression in case the timing belt broke. Typically compression doesn't drop overnight. . Unless a timing belt breaks. Check back, I'll walk you through the diag, I just don't have videos on exactly how to do each step.
@Michael Rossman I think my next step would be to pull the 4 spark plugs, inspect (they may be black from raw fuel and no spark when the distributor pick up failed. While they are out I recommend checking compression on at least 2 cyl.
0ish. Basically good ground. Personally I put the red lead on the positive battery terminal (as a known good positive source voltage12ish volts) then put the black lead on the coil ground wire. Then crank and it should show source (12ish) volts Or you could even measure resistance between negative battery and the ground wire, going between OL and 0 ohms as it cranks
What do you mean if the coil black wire doesn’t pulsate, I’m having the same problem with my truck it’s not starting, yes it getting fuel and had compression. My 4 cylinder is has no spark
1988 toyota 4x4 pickup: battery good 12v+, removed spark plug wire #3 place near ground bolt & saw a spark, sprayed brake cleaner in the EFI port exhaust & it started for ~1 second. So, I am guessing problem with the "fuel" portion. AND YES, it has gas in the tank. Any suggestions of my next move?
See if the in tank electric fuel pump is running. Doesnt seem like it will be. At which point determine if it is the pump, or if it is not getting 12v and ground from the harness
Hi! I have same pickup, won’t start but it runs fine if I push it and start it with a second gear Down the hill it’s a 5 speed Manual . I put new battery. When I turn on the ignition dashboard lights on but no headlights or hazard light . One mechanic checked it he said it’s electrical problem. Any help ?
Mine is acting up its a 90 auto won't crack won't even click turn key 2 or 3rd time fires up only in the am before work I'm thinking it needs coffee but seriously wtf all wires tight can't figure it out
My 94 2wd 22re truck died while driving, I've already changed the distributor cap, spark-plug wires, and the ignition coil. Still getting no spark, any tips?
I would check the coil for "trigger" which is a pulse that controls the coil. It originates in the distributor and while it spins the pick up coil will pulse the coil. Thats what the video explained no?
I have a 1985 Toyota Factory 1 Ton Pickup 22R . Efi . 5 Speed I drove it for years Ok . In December 2006 I drove it throw a deep water puddle & it die'd . It has Not ran right since ! You try to start it . It starts for less the 1 Sec & die's! you let off the key & try to start it again . it starts for less then 1 Sec & die's ! It does This every time you try to start it ! I have replaced the { fuel pump, fuel pump screen , Fuel Filter .Fuel Pump Regulator . } . I took the gas tank off. & cleaned it . { it will run as long as you spray gas in to the Air Cleaner } you Stop It Dies ! today is 4/27/2018 I can find No One That Can Help Me! I have been trying to fix it . Now I will say that 2 times over the years I have got it to start & run till I shout it off ! & it did restart ! But I went out the Next Day ! & It would Start for Less then 1 Sec & Die ! I Love this truck Please Help Thanks George
@@GFPRACING that is the direction I would go. Make sure the pump is delivering good fuel volume and pressure to the fuel rail, and make sure the injectors are spraying the fuel into the intake. Assuming what you said about the truck running on fuel sprayed into the air intake, this should be a fairly simple diagnosis.
There's a relay on the passenger side kick panel where the computer is. Right above the computer there's a small relay that may be your problem. Duralast relay 20098 is what I bought to replace that small relay. One day mine had a starting issue where after it was warmed up, the engine would stall. It would run for a few seconds after restarting it and then stall. Eventually it would not start at all.
I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical. 1984 22RE -- Can a faulty distributor cause a non start periodically? That's my problem. Sometimes it will just crank. It hasn't stranded me. . . yet. It always manages to start, but only after flirting with draining my battery. I'd test it all with my multimeter, but I can't find a channel that gives a tutorial on what to touch on this paticular motor with the prongs of the meter.
Possibly yes, but I look at it as the individual parts of the distributor rather than the whole distributor as an assembly. On this one it was the pickup portion. Its job is to pulse the coil. Yours could be the pick up, the rotor, the cap, the coil, the coil wire.. it could even be fuel related like the fuel pump. You really want to determine first if it is a loss of spark, fuel, or compression. Compression is probably OK if it is intermittent so I wouldn't worry much about that. Look for a video on testing for spark. It has to be tested while it is acting up. If it has no spark then I will talk to you more about your next steps. But not until you confirm that spark is your problem. P.s. fixing cars is not easy, and most people don't understand automotive electrical once it has gone beyond the 12v and ground type diagnosis so dont be hard on yourself. People who do this for a living struggle with not resorting to parts shotgun and swaptronics so dont be hard on yourself
@@paulkelley86 I do fine working on cars, it's just the way DC current works that gets me. I avoid it as much as possible, but now, I want to learn. What is a "pick-up" in the Distributor? I have a Hanson's, Chiltons and, and even a Shop Manual (Electrical one too), but they don't have much to offer as far as showing what to touch with the prongs of my meter. I just now learned how to check the Primary & Secondary on the Coil by using a test light. I just changed the plugs, wires, cap, & rotor. This has been happening for the last 3 years, but very intermittently. It won't happen for months, and then it does. There's no pattern to it at all, and I heard that the stock distributors - as this one is - on these 22RE have a habit of shorting out. I just need to find out what I need to test inside of it.
@@whatsyurprob158 Ok. If you understand the primary side, that is what are talking about. The primary side of the coil needs 12v and ground to work, but more than that, it needs the ground to be pulsed. When it has ground, it charges the coil, when it loses ground it fires. The pickups job is to pulse ground at the right time. That's why they mount it in the distributor, since the distributor spins it can mechanically pulse ground at the correct time and speed. Basically all you need to to is find the small primary wires on your coil, verify that the positive has 12v ish battery source voltage. Then see if the ground side is pulsing while someone cranks it for you, or maybe your leads will reach. In the case of this truck, it wasn't getting a ground pulse, which led me to remove the cap and rotor to inspect the pickup mechanism when I found it was destroyed. You could even have it flash a test light, there are of course more technical ways to test it using an oscilloscope and what not but this is the simple method. If it wont start, you will at least see if it is pulsing. If pulsing but still no spark, coil. If not pulsing, move your negative meter lead from the primary side of the coil right to the same pulse wire right at the distributor to see if it pulses there. If pulsing there, wire to the coil is open, if not pulsing, distributor (pick up is part of the assembly)
@@paulkelley86 I think I got it. Yet, the primary wire on the coild doesn't go directly to the distributor. It goes to the green plug, and then to the distributor. I hope I don't fry anything by touch the wrong thing. Riddle me this: Without disconnecting anything, I checked the ohm's on the coil by selecting 200 on my meter, and touching the prongs to the pos & neg terminals of the coil. Why did all different kinds of numbers start flashing on my meter? It was like a pulsing of different numbers, and they were always different. The manual says that the terminal must be disconnected before checking the Ohms, but, and as I just said, I disconnected nothing. Told you I was IGNORANT to how the electrical works. All I know how to do is take out, and I stall.
@@whatsyurprob158 how many wires are in the green connector? The readings jumping around may be your whole problem. Make sure your connections are good and you could wiggle the harness around to see if moving it manipulates the reading which may help you find the open/resistance. And checking the resistance of the coil primary is good, if it is in spec, do what I listed before. If it is out of spec by a lot, then the coil would be defective, assuming you are testing right at the coil and not including wire harness in the test
This is a CRANK no start partner. Otherwise I mostly agree minus you missed the battery and starter relay control which may be ignition switch or ECU controlled.
If you are 100% sure the spark plugs themselves are actually getting spark (not just coil good but plug wires and plugs as well), you would need to look into the following: Is ignition timing close? (not likely to be off unless the distributor was removed and not reinstalled at the correct angle. A few degrees no issue, we are talking teeth off to actually cause a no start. No fuel to cylinders. Easiest but risky test is to shoot starting fluid/carb cleaner/ even brake clean into throttle body. Just a small shot. If it fires off that fluid for a second or 2, that means everything else is good and the problem for sure is no fuel. Likely fuel pump or loss of power to fuel pump. Less likely injectors since 1 being bad would cause a misfire rather than a no start. Or compression. Easy to verify with compression test. Maybe able to verify with a piece of paper setting on spark plug tube with spark plug removed. A no start would have to be loss of compression on multiple or all cylinders. So not a single cylinder, that would be a misfire. A broken timing belt, major engine failure, etc. Thats all they need. Spark (at the right time, compression, fuel (correct amount)
It is a walk-through of the diagnosis after it was diagnosed, confirmed, and repaired. Do you have anything else to contribute? Or just the faceless RUclips commenter who offers nothing but your criticism..?
@@paulkelley86 I was making a point, if you took it as criticism then thats your problem. Also, it might help if you didn't have the engine running so your presentation would be clear.
@@emperorpawpateen.9992 I think they have more content on their channel than you do yours. If you had any clue of how exhausting RUclips keyboard warriors, you'd see how that is your problem, and even if they did all those things, seems like you'd still have a complaint. Feel free to do it yourself if you have issues/concerns. Also just an FYI, maybe check your attitude when typing online. It's almost like you're talking with real people. Seriously bud, people don't have to make videos to try to help. Learn some respect, and self respect.
@@vibrantneon. your opinion doesn't mean jack squat. Also, I own and operate an auto repair business, I've been in the business long enough to know what I'm talking about. Don't be a dumbass.
@@emperorpawpateen.9992 When you comment on someones video being a know it all, you over-stepped. Period. Doesn't matter how much you know about cars, boss someone else somewhere else. Doesn't matter how much you know, don't see you creating any videos, just complaining like everyone else on the internet. Actions > Talk. You are all talk pal.
![1990 Toyota pickup spark issue. (No spark] Read the description for more.](/img/1.gif)
This helped a lot. My 93 died on me out of nowhere the other day. Got it towed to a shop. They're saying they want to replace the coil assembly and distributor...for $1700. Great to know I can trailer it back to my house and do it myself for about $100 in parts and an afternoon.
Yeah that sounds like a steep price. Wonder what the parts/labor breakdown is to come up with that number.....
Just make sure you get the timing right, plenty of videos on that, honestly not rocket science.
@@paulkelley86 yeah that's the only thing I'm not 100% confident in. The rest of the job seems pretty basic nuts and bolts. Luckily I have a roommate that knows everything about cars and said he'd help with timing if it gives me any trouble. Thanks for the reply!
Damn I finally got my truck back from the shop, stuck a new distributor in (it looked exactly like the one in this video) and STILL no spark. Gonna try the coils next.
@@MikeCrocker if the shop charged you a diagnosis fee, you approved what they sold you, and it did not fix the problem... that's on the shop.
That is the reason they, and I, charge a diagnosis fee. To perform tests to determine the root cause of the concern.
But if you did not authorize the proposed work and towed it home, then guessed a distributor. That's on you.
You should do some testing. Every wrong part is a waste of money. The purpose of this video is to downstate a simple test to help troubleshoot
@@paulkelley86 well to be fair they were transparent with what they were going to replace. They were going to do the distributor, ignition coil, and ignitor. The distributor got delivered this morning so I went ahead and threw it on, hoping it would fix the problem, but the ignition coil gets in this evening so I'll try that next. Volt meter read something from the ignitor so I'm hoping that's actually fine, as it seems hard to come by and expensive, but I guess I'll be one step closer once I get the coil on.
Found the exact same problem on my 1993 pickup. Checked under the cap first and there it was, a nest of magnet wire. Very first electrical issue in 28 years and 222285 mi. Thanks for this very helpful video.
I have the Exact same Truck a 1994 Toyota DLX Pickup I am going to your steps.. I have both No Spark and No Fuel. I will do this on the Ignitor and coil also the ECU .. This has me stumped. ... thank you for your great video..
Thanks for the video, I am installing a tach on the same truck and you answered my question.
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks
replace the distributor & cap, ran fine for a couple weeks, the replaced the wires spark plug wires, it ran for about 5 miles, stopped at a gas station, and wouldn't start up again, it just cranks. I've since replaced the coil (still just cranks), anyone watching this video have a idea on what it is, I'm thinking faulty spark plug wires, but I don't know if its something I did, or just something else broke at this unexpected time. It's my first car and I'm 16... quite unexperienced but willing to learn
My advice to you would be to work your way away from throwing new parts in it and try to learn some testing/troubleshooting skills. If you like it you may consider looking for automotive training in your area, high school and beyond. If you are good at it, its a good career. If not, there are much easier professions.
Did you figure it out
Thanks 🙏 Very helpful. Own a 1992 & it’s good to know this. 😀
Best one yet
@paulkelley Intristing video Mr Kelley! Good work!!
thanks, I'll try this before replacing my fuel pump.
Thankful for this vid. I was puzzled by the sudden failure of my 1993 Pickup Deluxe to start when everything seemed ok....but wasn’t once I removed the distributor’s cap. What I would like to know is why did that happen?
Almost 30 years of normal wear and tear. Life expectancy exceeded I think.
I like your path logic.
Good info Foreal . Thanks dude
My 1993 just stopped on freeway but I was coming to a slow down and then when I tried to take off it felt like the engine shook bad like 4 or 5 times then stopped check distributer I think move but it was tight could it jump out of it timing just wondering
Thank you just picked one of these up.
To get 12v reading on the wire that goes from the igniter to the coil, you turn the key to acc, then stick one multimeter probe into the sealant around a wire and the other probe on the battery or is it grounded to the body? Also for clarity the multimeter is set to DC 20. Watching this being done would be so much better than an explanation on a running vehicle.
I agree. I just had to get him going so fast the video was a second priority.
If you have black lead on good ground (- batt or bare metal) and the positive reads 12v ish, you could simply move black lead onto negative of the coil and watch for 12 pulse. Since the red is on a known 12v, you are basically testing the ground pulse by watching for the 12v.
Just saving a step.
But can't argue with you.
Great vid this helped me a lot. Opened my dizzy and saw the copper just like the one jn the vid. Ive replaced alt, dizzy, coil, and icm. Fuel is coming out the cold start bolt but unsure what the fuel pressure is. Any ideas on what else i should do? Throwinf money into parts isnt gonna fix it at this point
You sure you got the distributor timed? And verify spark.
My advice is always to test rather than throw parts. You are ahead of the game if you realize that now.
I like that you have checked for fuel, I would probably say that's OK for now, don't stress the pressure. If you ever wanted to know for sure, spray some carb or brake clean in the intake. If it fires up for a second, it wasn't getting fuel.
I would pursue the spark. Timing and actually sparking.
If you are sure it is good then I would check compression in case the timing belt broke. Typically compression doesn't drop overnight. . Unless a timing belt breaks.
Check back, I'll walk you through the diag, I just don't have videos on exactly how to do each step.
I can confirm there's spark and dizzy was reset back to cylinder one when installing and tdc
@Michael Rossman I think my next step would be to pull the 4 spark plugs, inspect (they may be black from raw fuel and no spark when the distributor pick up failed. While they are out I recommend checking compression on at least 2 cyl.
Thanks for the video . I need help. What is the Gap measurement on the distributor pickup coil ?
Sorry don't know the spec, with enough searching you should be able to find either the service manual or someone closely following it.
Thanks man good video out there
Yes Man
Thanks it a good video
This was very helpful thansk
Thank man
I need help with my truck is 1997 but it won't crank oh like the battery gets it
The ground should pulse to what voltage
0ish.
Basically good ground.
Personally I put the red lead on the positive battery terminal (as a known good positive source voltage12ish volts) then put the black lead on the coil ground wire. Then crank and it should show source (12ish) volts
Or you could even measure resistance between negative battery and the ground wire, going between OL and 0 ohms as it cranks
What do you mean if the coil black wire doesn’t pulsate, I’m having the same problem with my truck it’s not starting, yes it getting fuel and had compression. My 4 cylinder is has no spark
It should flash a test light or pulse voltage using a voltmeter
Right on bro!
1988 toyota 4x4 pickup: battery good 12v+, removed spark plug wire #3 place near ground bolt & saw a spark, sprayed brake cleaner in the EFI port exhaust & it started for ~1 second. So, I am guessing problem with the "fuel" portion. AND YES, it has gas in the tank. Any suggestions of my next move?
See if the in tank electric fuel pump is running. Doesnt seem like it will be. At which point determine if it is the pump, or if it is not getting 12v and ground from the harness
Is this something that would cause a Code 14 to pop up?
Lord have mercy, I wish I had the luck... I've fire but injectors are not opening up. EFI test is arcing out
Hi! I have same pickup, won’t start but it runs fine if I push it and start it with a second gear Down the hill it’s a 5 speed Manual . I put new battery. When I turn on the ignition dashboard lights on but no headlights or hazard light . One mechanic checked it he said it’s electrical problem. Any help ?
You have a no crank no start.
Research that.
Area of trouble starter. But could be wiring, starter relay, ignition switch etc.
Exactly what happened to mine
Mine won’t crank or start , but drives fine ones I start it with pushing it it’s 5 speed manual . What would be the problem
You have a no crank no start. Look for videos on that.
Great fucking vid man
Mine is acting up its a 90 auto won't crack won't even click turn key 2 or 3rd time fires up only in the am before work I'm thinking it needs coffee but seriously wtf all wires tight can't figure it out
My 94 2wd 22re truck died while driving, I've already changed the distributor cap, spark-plug wires, and the ignition coil. Still getting no spark, any tips?
I would check the coil for "trigger" which is a pulse that controls the coil. It originates in the distributor and while it spins the pick up coil will pulse the coil. Thats what the video explained no?
I have a 1985 Toyota Factory 1 Ton Pickup 22R . Efi . 5 Speed I drove it for years Ok . In December 2006 I drove it throw a deep water puddle & it die'd . It has Not ran right since ! You try to start it . It starts for less the 1 Sec & die's! you let off the key & try to start it again . it starts for less then 1 Sec & die's ! It does This every time you try to start it ! I have replaced the { fuel pump, fuel pump screen , Fuel Filter .Fuel Pump Regulator . } . I took the gas tank off. & cleaned it . { it will run as long as you spray gas in to the Air Cleaner } you Stop It Dies ! today is 4/27/2018 I can find No One That Can Help Me! I have been trying to fix it . Now I will say that 2 times over the years I have got it to start & run till I shout it off ! & it did restart ! But I went out the Next Day ! & It would Start for Less then 1 Sec & Die ! I Love this truck Please Help Thanks George
Are you sure the injectors are spraying?
It it runs on external fuel it indicates fuel is not getting into the cylinder.
@@paulkelley86 no
@@GFPRACING that is the direction I would go. Make sure the pump is delivering good fuel volume and pressure to the fuel rail, and make sure the injectors are spraying the fuel into the intake.
Assuming what you said about the truck running on fuel sprayed into the air intake, this should be a fairly simple diagnosis.
There's a relay on the passenger side kick panel where the computer is. Right above the computer there's a small relay that may be your problem. Duralast relay 20098 is what I bought to replace that small relay. One day mine had a starting issue where after it was warmed up, the engine would stall. It would run for a few seconds after restarting it and then stall. Eventually it would not start at all.
I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical.
1984 22RE -- Can a faulty distributor cause a non start periodically? That's my problem. Sometimes it will just crank. It hasn't stranded me. . . yet. It always manages to start, but only after flirting with draining my battery. I'd test it all with my multimeter, but I can't find a channel that gives a tutorial on what to touch on this paticular motor with the prongs of the meter.
Possibly yes, but I look at it as the individual parts of the distributor rather than the whole distributor as an assembly. On this one it was the pickup portion. Its job is to pulse the coil. Yours could be the pick up, the rotor, the cap, the coil, the coil wire.. it could even be fuel related like the fuel pump.
You really want to determine first if it is a loss of spark, fuel, or compression.
Compression is probably OK if it is intermittent so I wouldn't worry much about that.
Look for a video on testing for spark.
It has to be tested while it is acting up. If it has no spark then I will talk to you more about your next steps. But not until you confirm that spark is your problem.
P.s. fixing cars is not easy, and most people don't understand automotive electrical once it has gone beyond the 12v and ground type diagnosis so dont be hard on yourself. People who do this for a living struggle with not resorting to parts shotgun and swaptronics so dont be hard on yourself
@@paulkelley86 I do fine working on cars, it's just the way DC current works that gets me. I avoid it as much as possible, but now, I want to learn.
What is a "pick-up" in the Distributor?
I have a Hanson's, Chiltons and, and even a Shop Manual (Electrical one too), but they don't have much to offer as far as showing what to touch with the prongs of my meter.
I just now learned how to check the Primary & Secondary on the Coil by using a test light.
I just changed the plugs, wires, cap, & rotor. This has been happening for the last 3 years, but very intermittently. It won't happen for months, and then it does. There's no pattern to it at all, and I heard that the stock distributors - as this one is - on these 22RE have a habit of shorting out. I just need to find out what I need to test inside of it.
@@whatsyurprob158 Ok. If you understand the primary side, that is what are talking about. The primary side of the coil needs 12v and ground to work, but more than that, it needs the ground to be pulsed. When it has ground, it charges the coil, when it loses ground it fires.
The pickups job is to pulse ground at the right time. That's why they mount it in the distributor, since the distributor spins it can mechanically pulse ground at the correct time and speed.
Basically all you need to to is find the small primary wires on your coil, verify that the positive has 12v ish battery source voltage. Then see if the ground side is pulsing while someone cranks it for you, or maybe your leads will reach.
In the case of this truck, it wasn't getting a ground pulse, which led me to remove the cap and rotor to inspect the pickup mechanism when I found it was destroyed.
You could even have it flash a test light, there are of course more technical ways to test it using an oscilloscope and what not but this is the simple method. If it wont start, you will at least see if it is pulsing.
If pulsing but still no spark, coil.
If not pulsing, move your negative meter lead from the primary side of the coil right to the same pulse wire right at the distributor to see if it pulses there. If pulsing there, wire to the coil is open, if not pulsing, distributor (pick up is part of the assembly)
@@paulkelley86 I think I got it. Yet, the primary wire on the coild doesn't go directly to the distributor. It goes to the green plug, and then to the distributor. I hope I don't fry anything by touch the wrong thing.
Riddle me this:
Without disconnecting anything, I checked the ohm's on the coil by selecting 200 on my meter, and touching the prongs to the pos & neg terminals of the coil.
Why did all different kinds of numbers start flashing on my meter? It was like a pulsing of different numbers, and they were always different. The manual says that the terminal must be disconnected before checking the Ohms, but, and as I just said, I disconnected nothing.
Told you I was IGNORANT to how the electrical works. All I know how to do is take out, and I stall.
@@whatsyurprob158 how many wires are in the green connector?
The readings jumping around may be your whole problem. Make sure your connections are good and you could wiggle the harness around to see if moving it manipulates the reading which may help you find the open/resistance.
And checking the resistance of the coil primary is good, if it is in spec, do what I listed before. If it is out of spec by a lot, then the coil would be defective, assuming you are testing right at the coil and not including wire harness in the test
Bitchen video brotha
DUDE
You are wrong no crank no spark three things what about cable ground or cable starter or starter .
This is a CRANK no start partner. Otherwise I mostly agree minus you missed the battery and starter relay control which may be ignition switch or ECU controlled.
But if the coil is good¿
If you are 100% sure the spark plugs themselves are actually getting spark (not just coil good but plug wires and plugs as well), you would need to look into the following:
Is ignition timing close? (not likely to be off unless the distributor was removed and not reinstalled at the correct angle. A few degrees no issue, we are talking teeth off to actually cause a no start.
No fuel to cylinders. Easiest but risky test is to shoot starting fluid/carb cleaner/ even brake clean into throttle body. Just a small shot. If it fires off that fluid for a second or 2, that means everything else is good and the problem for sure is no fuel. Likely fuel pump or loss of power to fuel pump. Less likely injectors since 1 being bad would cause a misfire rather than a no start.
Or compression. Easy to verify with compression test. Maybe able to verify with a piece of paper setting on spark plug tube with spark plug removed. A no start would have to be loss of compression on multiple or all cylinders. So not a single cylinder, that would be a misfire. A broken timing belt, major engine failure, etc.
Thats all they need. Spark (at the right time, compression, fuel (correct amount)
@@paulkelley86 everything on the actual block has been replaced and some extra parts off the block
@@paulkelley86 thanks for trying
Let's diagnose a no start on a running engine.
It is a walk-through of the diagnosis after it was diagnosed, confirmed, and repaired. Do you have anything else to contribute? Or just the faceless RUclips commenter who offers nothing but your criticism..?
@@paulkelley86 I was making a point, if you took it as criticism then thats your problem. Also, it might help if you didn't have the engine running so your presentation would be clear.
@@emperorpawpateen.9992 I think they have more content on their channel than you do yours. If you had any clue of how exhausting RUclips keyboard warriors, you'd see how that is your problem, and even if they did all those things, seems like you'd still have a complaint. Feel free to do it yourself if you have issues/concerns.
Also just an FYI, maybe check your attitude when typing online. It's almost like you're talking with real people. Seriously bud, people don't have to make videos to try to help. Learn some respect, and self respect.
@@vibrantneon. your opinion doesn't mean jack squat. Also, I own and operate an auto repair business, I've been in the business long enough to know what I'm talking about. Don't be a dumbass.
@@emperorpawpateen.9992 When you comment on someones video being a know it all, you over-stepped. Period. Doesn't matter how much you know about cars, boss someone else somewhere else. Doesn't matter how much you know, don't see you creating any videos, just complaining like everyone else on the internet. Actions > Talk. You are all talk pal.
Turn truck off dummy
?