I'd use all different parts for sure. I avoid iflight electronics after finding out that they prefer to insult customers rather than provide customer service. T-Motor F7 Pro flight controller T-Motor F55 Pro II ESC (4in1) Motors for 7" props: T Motor F90 2806.5 1300kv or 1500kv Motors for 7.5" props: T-Motor Velox 3008 1300kv or 1500kv Camera Butter ND Filters 7" props for RAD Li-ion- genfan 7037 7" props for Falcon 7 - Gemfan 7040 (tri-blades) 7.5" props for Falcon RPM Gemfan 7535 (tri-blades) VTX antenna TrueRC Singularity
Great tutorial! There are a couple things I noticed that you might want to do differently. The barometer will not function properly if you put conformal coating over the tiny hole. I usually cover it with some painters tape before coating the FC. Also, locktite will eat through the nylon nut and destroy it over time. I'd just use a nylock nut instead.
I'm just finishing up a new cam mount that fits the 03 air unit camera. If it's not up on thingiverse when you need it email me at falconradfpv@gmail.com and I'll send you the file. I'll try to get it up on thingiverse soon though.
Great video, I just finished bulding my Falcon a couple of weeks ago looking forward to mountain diving. Definitely agree with others that you don't want to conformal over the barometer as that will render it useless. Another thing I did was use a spare grommet in the hole running the camera wire through to avoid the sharp edges from rubbing through the camera wire. Phenomenal job on the frame! It flies awesome.
Thanks for the tips, great idea about the grommet for the wires through the hole in the frame! I'll keep that in mind and maybe include one or two 4mm circular holes in future frame designs.
@@dreswan1 All of my other quads are 5 inch frames. I have 3 CMW Mofos for racing, two BQE bangers, a QAVs, three Diatone Roma frames - 1 v1, and two v2, one is an HD version, and a few others.
Hi Conrad! I want to thank you for this great frame. It came to me about half a year ago, but unfortunately I was unable to fix one issue. It flew like bad tuned tinywhoop... I tried many motors, betaflight and blheli settings without success. But only today I realized it can be a bad gyro. Fortunately my FC has the second gyro and when I enable it, my drone flew like expensive car ) It really flies smoothly and stable. Nice frame!
I don't consider myself a professional Soldering expert, but I have got some really nice joints on my ESC's and motor wire of the past, and felt really good about how clean they turned out, but I just solder up the 50amp esc you have to another Chimera build, and couldn't for the life of me get a good joint.
I've been finding with the increase in current handling on some newer ESC's that I need to really turn up the heat since the large copper traces pull the heat away very efficiently. I actually just bought a new soldering iron a few months ago because my old one wouldn't cut it anymore with the newer ESC's.
excellent video well detailed!! got the AOS 7 and waiting on your Falcon...nice VTX info I'll need to get one for comparo. those tiny pads though on the FC; and the ones you not using big as cornflakes!!
Thanks, Actually I designed this frame and Chris Rosser helped me with some modifications to help stiffen the design. Great guy, and ya he's definitely got a talent with his in-depth understanding of electronics and physics.
@@FalconRadFPV Ah, my apologies. I stand corrected. I thought he designed them. But looking back now I remember that he said he had a big input in these frames and they were from elsewhere. Great frames by the way
Awesome build video brother!! Looks to be a good solid kwad for sure!! If I hadn't already built the super g I definitely would've built this one. Still may at some point!! Love your work and all your videos!! I have backed up and pretty much watched the all. Super good channel!! A little tip I figured out for GPS users.. For the first GPS "cold start" at new locations -- (possibly taking up to 5 minutes to lock on to satellites at first power up) - Use a portable charge pack used for charging cell phones and the correct cable to just boot the FC & GPS before you start flying at any new location to avoid unnecessary VTX heat up. (Using a lipo or li-ion for GPS cold starts waste mah and heats up the VTX while waiting.) Its just like plugging in to a computer.. it will power the FC, receiver and GPS but not the VTX. After the first initial cold start it only takes seconds to lock on, on all packs afterwards. Hopefully this tip will help save wear and tare on someone's VTX someday! :) Happy flying!!
@@FalconRadFPV Btw thanks for your videos. subbed :) been coming back to a couple of them to preplan my long range built and just noticed they wrere all the same channel
Thanks for the tip. I remember hearing about that before. I tried it once before when I had video noise issues, but haven't done it since, I forgot all about it. I should test and see if it clears my video up anymore. (it's already pretty clean though)
This is an exceptional build and very educational. I’ll definitely be using some of your techniques in the near future. New sub. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome build!! Now you just need some LEDs for under the arms for some flair! Jk, red build looks awesome and I love the goPro mount, it allows for more space on the top plate for batteries for sure!
I would love to see a DJI Air unit build. I think your frame is amazing but it would give me much more confidence to see a build because I don't have much experience.
Thanks for this tutorial, FalconRad!! Been waiting for ever for a detailed long range full build tutorial. All that is missing is the Betaflight setup tutorial, maybe the next video?
I just recently posted the betaflight setup video, gps video and even a short video about my blheli 32 setup. It's all there on my RUclips page. Check the quads and gear playlist.
Okay, let me share my coating experience, from cold mother Russia.. Im using Plastic-71 (acrilic base cover). 1. Minimum 3 thin layers. 2. Coat ONLY after all soldering done. Just lay the quad bottom side up, unscrew all motors carefully and pull the frame off to cover the bottom of your electronic. 3. Don't coat buttons, mic, plugs, baro sensor. 4. You can also use "waterproof xt60 plug" (the one with silicone gasket).
Nice!! Thank for this detailed build video. I've put together loads of planes but his will be my first custom built quad. This video will be a huge for me once that last of the parts show up. Been stressing a bit but I feel better about it now.
Glad it will be of help. Hey, no need to stress over your upcoming build. If you get stuck on something just search for a Joshua Bardwell video about it 😉 He has literally covered every single quad problem in his over 2,000 videos. Also, I always answer every comment and email as well as I can. If you need a hand figuring something out just email me about it and we'll get it sorted out.
@@FalconRadFPV That is very gracious. Watching your work is a pleasure. It's what got me interested in upping my game. I think I have the electronics/frame assembly nailed with this video. Pretty much everything I need has arrived. Need some proper conformal coating and a few other build materials I can get quickly from Amazon. Need to finish a couple of long range plane builds and it goes on the bench. Also need to figure out how to print TPU. Have a roll but never used it. Likely a Christmas/New Years build. If you're ever headed to the Kootenays, reach out. We have 3 spare bedrooms in our farmhouse now that the kids are gone. One has it's own bathroom and living area. We live in the middle of FPV heaven. Few people. Lots of mountains, creeks, lakes and glaciers I know well. You'd be more than welcome. You'd love flying in the Selkirk and Purcell ranges. You'd eat it up.
Nice, the FR7 is a good quad! I also have one. It is somewhat similar in overall appearance but they are VERY different designs. The AOS Falcon 7 is more streamlined and weighs less. It's intended for extended range flights. The FR7 is intended for mid range flights at a fast speed. I've used a very different design with the arms. The FR7 arms all come together in the middle. I did it with front and back arms having significant separation. It affects vibrations and weight quite a bit, two different approaches. For my design the hd cam and fpv cam only look attached together. They are separated parts keeping the tpu prints small, they were designed to be as stiff as possible. The FPV cam in no way connects to the gopro mount. My design has two plates protruding forward to support the cameras. 2mm and 2.5mm, with an 8mm separation which is supported by four standoffs. This structure is significantly stronger than the single 2.5 or 3mm carbon plate that goes forward to support the cameras on the FR7. To maximize the strength of the outer surfaces where the majority of the stress is placed during a flexing motion. Anyways I think it supports the camera better. Although the FR7 manages to get the weight of the GoPro about 10mm+ lower which helps. I also opted to use 8mm carbon for a stiffer and more squared arm design. The FR7 uses a more rectangular arm design. I have also built in bracing to support the rear arms because on my design they extend back differently and are longer than the front arms. As well the cut outs for weight savings on my design were done by a computer program with the goal of maximum stiffness with reduced weight. The cutouts on the FR7 "look to me like they were done by a person with reducing weight in mind as well as ease of build and access" All that said, I personally think the FR7 is one of the best 7" frames out there. Only because it is open source it does not get the credit it deserves. Nobody can make money off it so nobody (big on youtube) talks about it on youtube. I really liked my FR7. I only stopped using it because I wanted to shift to something a bit lighter with more range. I also wanted the FPV camera down low again, and as stiff of a frame as possible so I designed my own frame. Which in my option is quite a bit different than an FR7.
Cool build. About the conformal coating you might not want to cover the top of the mosfet chips, as the coating is less heat conductive (especially silicone) and you could end up overheating the mosfets. You only need coating on the solder joints and exposed pads to avoid shorts and corrosion from the elements.
Thanks for the tip. With my long range quads I've never felt an ESC get barely even warm. So I don't worry about ESC temps on long range builds, I always use an esc that is bigger than needed as well. On builds that get hot ESC's though the conformal coating won't work very well either, it can melt at higher temperatures.
Great vidéo thanks, i think is better to solder your front xt60 on below pad esc It's more easy and clean separate the cable ,with the dji airunit it's impossible to do the same, i have only the front xt60 and adapter
Thank yop, I have on previous builds put two XT60's and had them both come out at the sides (one on each side) and stay away from where the air unit is mounted.
Also with that amount of cap added, you will see a jump in voltage, likely higher than 100V, when connecting. I would put a TVS diode across the main lead pads on the ESC in addition, to get rid of that voltage spike. TVS rated few volts higher than your battery pack fully charged. You will still have issues with fair amount of inrush current on connection and you could blow your caps after few connection cycles. 100uF is a lot of capacitance to connect directly on a battery with "infinite" available current
Ya I've hoping to find the antispark version of an XT60 but I can only find them in XT90 connectors. Oh ya I guess I could just make one like you're saying, it'll have to try that out, thanks.
if i have lost a few cap from the esc this exact one ...then as long as i have a 1000uf 35v low ers capacitor on the main pads will it be ok and shoulld I worry about trying to reflow them onto the board and risk damage more or just leave it as it is ....lost 3 small caps towards the opposite end of the battery lead so I just added a big cap to compensate
Sorry I'm not an expert at electronics, but I would say if you are using the quad for long range that you really want a well working quality ESC to fly with. I would go with trying to add the caps back on or replacing the ESC. Use the damaged one for a freestyle build.
Worth mentioning- rainwater is essentially distilled water, and as such is non-conductive. Waterfalls, however, may be a different story, and ocean mist will certainly be a short circuit hazard.
I've been thinking about making some BNF builds to sell. There's a lot involved though. I would have to start a business with tax #'s etc... to be able to buy parts from wholesale distributors.
This frame is treating me pretty well so far, except for one thing. The GPS is continually losing lock. Thinking it's because I've got too many wires sharing space with the GPS power wires. My considerations on fixing it have either been to stuff a regulator or LC filter back there to get cleaner power, or maybe trying to learn some 3D modeling to replace the GoPro mounting location with a GPS mount. What are your thoughts on this? (Using an M8Q-5883 btw.) Update: Disregard this issue. It was thick cloud cover blocking the satellite signals. Found that several of my quads couldn't get a solid lock anymore. As soon as I got blue skies, it was 20 sats.
Hİ. If I connect the xt60 cable to my own esc at 18:18 as in the video section, will I have a problem with the Holybro tekko 32? I collect fr7 so I need your knowledge
Please read the ***note*** in the description if using the parts list! -When conformal coating the flight controller you should first identify the barometer. Then you need to cover it (it has a tiny hole in the top) with a piece of tape. Remove the tape when the conformal coating is complete and has dried.
I read your note above about the 4n1 ESC, I got the v2.2 and running BlHeli 32.9 and still get errors. do you have anything connected to UART5? on the v2.2 it says UART5 for ESC Telemetry
Strony z rzeczami pewnie już nie aktualne bo po wejściu w link z opisu pisze, że nie znaleziono. Tak jakby strona była już nie aktywna . A setup bardzo fajny i pięknie wygląda. Pozdrawiam z Polski
Finally getting back to this after a winter of skiing. Do you have a source for the Panasonic capacitors? I can find the Panasonic Alu Elec capacitor in 50V 1000UF but not sure if it's a suitable substitute. Lots of Nichicon available and some Chinese JIADONG. I know nothing about capacitors.
This is sick totally building this I’ve built a different drone but I still feel kind of new will this build work with the XRotor Micro 60A 4-6S ESC AIO and the TBS rx receiver AIO instead of what you use? I would hope to get good range still.
It may work alright, I'm not sure. I try to use separated components and space them apart to help avoid interference between them. I always use a separate esc and flight controller never an AIO with both on one board.
There is a hero 11 mini mount for it, I can't remember if I've made on up for the 11 black yet. If you need a mount made for it contact me at Falconradfpv@gmail.com and let me know the details. My preference for the battery is two 6s 18650 li-ion packs run in parallel. Right now I'm using Molicel P28a cells. I'm not sure if any premade packs from stores will use them, but ya Molicel P series cells are really good, P26a and P28a.
Only that I can use the packs one at a time on smaller builds. It's not recommended unless you want to do the same. It is much more difficult to solder for most ESC's.
hey friend I set up a lr with these same settings there but I can't configure my PID and the drone is shaking could you please share your pids with me so i might be able to solve the problem? thank you and nice work you here on youtube😀
Look in the quads and gear playlist on my youtube page. There are several videos about getting setup in there to go along with this one.. One of them talks about and shows my PID tune.
Thx for the build. I have a hard time finding 1000uf 50v low esr caps. Is it ok to solder in 2x 680uf 50v for an example. Will it be the same as 1x 1360 cap?
Very detailed video! I saw in the description that the iflight ESC you're using had a "bad batch"... I would honestly reccomend a switch to something more premium. I've really liked my Hobbywing 60a and Radix 2 combo, but the hobbywing ESC on it's own is pretty solid. I've also heard AMAZING things about the Newbeedrone Infinity ESCs, one guy flies it on his 5in and has had 2 of the 20x20 (!) stacks going strong for I think around 2 years even after full water damage and lots of crashing (usual 5in quad things). I think the 30x30 Infinity esc is probably just as solid. Anyways, as always, love the content!
Thanks, I'll keep those brands in mind when I get my next ESC. Probably soon so I can replace that iFlight ESC. I also just got one of the Foxeer Reaper ESC's to do some 8s testing on but it's for a different quad project. I should probably get an anti-spark XT90 for that one. Thanks for your comment.
@@FalconRadFPV you should also look into the holy bro tekko it's a good amount less noisy than the hobbywing 60 amp although that's also a pretty solid choice.
I can't honestly say for sure. But from my experience flying long range my ESC doesn't get hot. My setup is 1300kv on 6s with 7" props so the amp draw is about 13-15 amps at 60 kph. I rarely pull mote than 40 or 50 amps over a long range flight so 10 or 12 amps per ESC maximum. My ESC is always cold. If an ESC get hot enough it will melt the coating off. I made a 9lbs hovercraft than ran a lot of amps and it melted the coating off of the 4in1 ESC I was using.
hi Conrad, could you please Share the stl File of the new GPS mount for the bigger GPS Module. i am Not really Happy with the small GPS either. great Job again, i really Love this frame, even it's a Bit on the heavy Side. thanks in advance JT
Oh sorry though I had posted that to thingyverse, I'll get it up on there tonight. Ya I hear ya, I really wanted the weight to be a bit lower. I do plan on doing more testing on the frame and trying to trim some weight for future versions. I'll do my best to keep future versions parts to be backwards compatible as well.
I have done that before (made a 4 way splitter for a 9lb hover craft I built, ran it on 4 x 1500mah 4s lipo's) Using two XT60's makes the build part a bit of a pain but after that it's nice and easy to hook up two batteries or just one and zip tie the front XT60 to the front standoffs.
@@FalconRadFPV worth the effort if you can.. But I understand why that would be super frustrating for some. Although I have been using one monster pack... Think I'll copy you on my FalconRad... Might as well.. just wondering if I should use my usual Kabob 30mm or 2806.5
I have build videos for both of my frames. The build videos will go over the parts lists. The Falcon 7 release video also covers the parts used for the build. Look in the quads and gear playlist on my RUclips page for all my informational video's. You will find a video about my goggles and FPV setup and another video about my control link and transmitter setup.
It's really just for looks, here's a link to a variety of colors for it: pyrodrone.com/products/braided-mesh-wire-sleeve-for-esc-and-motor-wires-3-8-x-2ft?variant=39356358787115
My build is 750g with props, gopro, battery straps, 2 x 1000 uf caps. 2 x 21700 6s is 900g this goes several km further but fly's heavy feeling, better for cruising a ridge line than diving a waterfall. 2 x 18650 6s is 640g this still has decent range and is quite noticeably more maneuverable and capable of pulling out of dives nicely.
I flew my AOS Falcon 7 for the first time today and it flys very nicely :) Thank you. Just wondering if there is a compatible 3D print camera mount design for a DJI Osmo Action? I’ve got the Osmo Action, version 1.
Oh great, glad to hear it's flying well for you. I don't think I've seen anyone post an osmo action mount yet. If you email me (falconradfpv@gmail.com)about it so I have a reminder then I'll try to make one up in the next week or so when I have some extra time.
hello, what battery do you use? What is the total weight of your drone with battery? I built a 7 inch thanks to your videos, thanks!!!! Saludos desde Chile
Frame weight: Carbon - 190g, Hardware - 26g, required TPU parts - 30g The build is 730grams with props, battery straps, gpro and mount. I use either a 600 gram 4200mah 6s lipo OR 6s2p 18650 li-ion 5200mah total and 640 grams OR 6s2p 21700 li-ion 8400mah total and 905 grams (this one feels quite heavy in the air, with a gopro its pushing the limits of what a 7" prop should be lifting)
Oh the red and black? It's the silicone cover from 14g wire, I put it on there so that I can use my finger tips to spin the hex driver quickly when a faster is just getting started.
Normally people would just use one large 6s2p pack with a single lead. But I have other quads that use only 6s1p or another quad that uses 6s2p but it has to have one 6s1p on top and one underneath. So I keep them separated as two 6s1p packs instead of a single 6s2p pack.
Very nice tutorial. Thanks for that ! ... question: you are powering the cam from FC. Did you consider use the 5V from Rush VTX? Can you compare powering from FC and from VTX? ...
You're welcome. I usually use the FC power since it will usually have some ok filtering built in. I will switch to the VTX if I get bad video when powered from the FC but I haven't needed to do that in a long time now. Maybe I'll experiment and try the VTX for power on my next build coming up soon.
for more range go smaller, for more power to handle wind go bigger. I recommend the F-90 2806.5 for the avg. long range 7" build. and the 2808 for a bit more power.
@@FalconRadFPV To be honest if there was an pre-build Falcon 7 for DJI with crossfire I would likelly pull the triger and made a purchase. I think it is the way to go forward.
How much payload weight can it lift? My first drone is a DJI mini 2 but I really want to build a drone that will meet all my other needs with the same functions and more. Any suggestion for me would be appreciated greatly as this drone I want might be just wishful thinking. I want to build a drone that. Is long range Can carry payloads Water proof or at least rain proof Has auxiliary digital inputs and outputs channels for future home brew projects. Can handle two or more video feeds through the controller with a dji mini 2 style type overlapping telemetry. No geo fencing Has 3 axis glimbal control that is stable and upgradable. Has GPS stabilization, RTH and a Find drone feature. Just the holy grail of drones I guess.
It can fly with a full gopro and a 900gram battery. Woah you dream drone sounds hard to find. Just for kicks check out Nurk FPV's video about a cinelifter with a huge gimble on it. I runs INav "I THINK", and can carry a big payload of up to a 2kg camera. ruclips.net/video/FqyWTdFbOGI/видео.html
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks I will, I think You would be right about that drone being hard to find but in the future I think we will see such flight controllers that will make it possible.
@@cafub2650 All those things exist right now but perhaps not in any one flight controller at the moment. I most often correctly guess what sort of thing will exist in the near future so I will hold out until it comes out. Do you think I'm wrong about this? It will be here in the not to distant future. I would bet money on it.
Dearest sir .4th time im watching your awesome video ,taking bullet notes of everything you doing ,im waiting for the batteries and the camera ,this is my very first build .Yes i know this built is for those advanced builders but thanks the Gods i am an extreme fast learner (with a slow budget lol)anyways ,i got my googles too and i will fly analogue ,my googles are Skyzone o2o (this is what i can afford sorry)what antenna you would advise me to use?
I would suggest a good 13dbi patch antenna, like the TrueRC X2-air. Or I have a video about how to make your own 7 turn helical antenna but you need a 3d printer (or a friend of yours), in will be in my "quads and gear" playlist.
It's just the FPV cam mount and gopro mount in the front, two separate 3d prints. They are all on thingiverse, just search for aos falcon 7 or falconrad fpv.
The rear standoffs are 34mm center to center. Here are all the AOS Falcon 7 stl files from thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/search?q=aos+falcon+7&type=things&sort=relevant
Great video! Looking to buy your frame for my next project. Are you using the countersunk frame in this build? What are the advantages with this mounting screw type?
Thanks for your interest. I always use countersunk. It just ends up flush with the top surface. That way your battery doesn't get damaged scraping on the top of the button head fasteners since they stick up 2 or 3 mm above the surface of the top plate. For underneath it will help prevent the fasteners from getting gouged if you land on rocks or pavement.
hey brother i'm beginner for drone tech, but have a great ambition to work on it from my childhood. the drone parts are not that much available in my country. i live in Ethiopia. i have seen a lot of videos from RUclips about drones. but i haven't seen such a wonderful channel that shows each and every step like this. thank u bro thank you very much. but if it is ur good willing could you send me a video of the remote controller part pleaseee? because u used some additional antennas for this best long range drone bro to make it more better. please post the remote controller part please if u can? told u i'm beginner please bro
Check out this video for info about my transmitter and control link. ruclips.net/video/uJTIoqfgb0k/видео.html This is another similar one about my video setup. ruclips.net/video/FJ2Q6tZvGeY/видео.html It's a lot to learn at first, check out Joshua Bardwell on youtube for videos to help with setting up the electronics. He has hundred's of videos about building fpv drones.
Hi, beautiful build, I was just wondering how much roughly does the AOS falcon 7 Fram weigh? I can't seem to find any info on the weight online. Thanks!
I've also wondered if this frame would work for fast cruising, as I'm just changing frames and right now my quad can cruise at 100kph, I saw a reply to a comment about you talking about how the fr7 is for fast cruising, and the AOS is for long range, and am unsure if that would make this frame unsuitable for high speeds. Many thanks again!
- The 8mm thick arms have increased the overall weight, but also improved the frames vibration performance. - Frame weight: Carbon - 190g, Hardware - 26g, required TPU parts - 30g - Package will ship with motor fasteners due to the extra thick arms and braces. (10mm & 15mm) As far as speed it's capable of it should be very comparable to the FR7.
Hello. I bought your frame and built the Quad with your settings. I also Made a battery with 6s2P molicel 42 21700 cells. Made 2 flights yet and the Quad flies great :) i have 2 Problems. I would be very thankful for your Help. One Problem with tbs range and one with the GPS. It doesnt find satellites. Could you Help me with this please? Do you have a Email Adress where i could send you some Photos?
Falconradfpv@gmail.com I'll do what I can to help you out. I'll be away on vacation starting tomorrow but I will be checking my email every couple of days.
With this 7" setup and a full size gopro camera, about 20min and 20km with a large heavy 21700 cell 6s2p setup. The same setup with 18650 cells is quite a bit lighter and fly's noticeably better but get about maybe 20% less range (16km 16min)
Oh that's a good question. I haven't seen the waterproofing having any issues covering solder joints at all. But I don't ever use extra flux on any FC or ESC soldering. The flux inside the solder itself seems to be enough to get good solid solder joints on the FC and ESC tabs for me. I would think that if there was extra flux added that it may be best to clean it off after soldering and before waterproofing. If you can see a brown sticky patch beside the solder joint then that I think would be extra flux to be cleaned off. That's what I notice on my Li-ion cells when I solder to them since I use a good amount of extra flux for that.
Awesome build! Just out of curiosity, that does the final build weigh (without batteries)? Sorry if you already mentioned it in the video I admit I ddint watch the full 1,5 hours. Ps: I would love to get into long range stuff myself but sadly it is illegal to fly more than a couple of hunder meters away here in europe :-(
I have been interested about long range builds. I have tried to found out what is good VTX for HD VIDEO, but since i live in EU. Most of our transmission powers are highly limited. So it is hard to find VTX that can do at least 10KM HD transmissions. I don't really yet want to invest to Herelink. Can any of traditiona Telemetries crossfire, etc do HD video. i don't really need low latency since i don't plan to fly high speed. Are those mushy fvp video qualities i see in videos because Analog video or low latency setting or because bad fvp camera.
It's probably analog if the DVR (goggle video) doesn't look very good. Crossfire is only a control link no video transmission. There are 2.4 or 1.2ghz VTX's that should get more range than the traditional 5.8ghz VTX though. But the antennas get bigger at the lower ghz.
I just watched your most recent flight video, so cool! But I noticed in this video the thumbnail pic shows you using a Gnb 6s 4200mah lipo, so did you switch from the two 6s Li-ion packs to one lipo?
For mid range flights, testing / freestyle at the field I use the lipo's. For long range flights I use 6s2p Li-ion, either 18650 5200mah or 21700 8400mah.
@@FalconRadFPV Haha those molicel p42 or whatever the name, are amazing, im looking at getting a pair for 8400 as well. right now I have two 6s 3300mah lipos and two 6s 3000mah VTC6 packs for 6000mah but they don't last as long as i hoped, they ran for 20 mins i was hoping to see closer to 30 min flights but that was before i realized they weren't actually 30amp rated and were really 15amp.
Awesome build and very informative video. Do you conformal coat your GPS? I'm using the Matek M8Q-5883 and I'm not sure if I can coat the whole thing with conformal coating. Thank you for this super helpful video!
@FalconRadFPV what would you do diferent in this setup ? today 2024 ?
I'd use all different parts for sure. I avoid iflight electronics after finding out that they prefer to insult customers rather than provide customer service.
T-Motor F7 Pro flight controller
T-Motor F55 Pro II ESC (4in1)
Motors for 7" props: T Motor F90 2806.5 1300kv or 1500kv
Motors for 7.5" props: T-Motor Velox 3008 1300kv or 1500kv
Camera Butter ND Filters
7" props for RAD Li-ion- genfan 7037
7" props for Falcon 7 - Gemfan 7040 (tri-blades)
7.5" props for Falcon RPM Gemfan 7535 (tri-blades)
VTX antenna TrueRC Singularity
Great tutorial! There are a couple things I noticed that you might want to do differently. The barometer will not function properly if you put conformal coating over the tiny hole. I usually cover it with some painters tape before coating the FC. Also, locktite will eat through the nylon nut and destroy it over time. I'd just use a nylock nut instead.
Thanks for the tips! Now I know why one of my nylon nuts fell apart before. Thanks.
Where are the nylon nuts used?
I was going to type up these 2 exact points about the ruined baro and nylon nuts getting destroyed by locktite!
@@sufysprojects2689 He uses them to secure the stack/FC.
Analytical build video without the whistle and bells..well done Falcon !!!
This frame is amazing. It’s sitting on my desk ready for a build. I can’t wait to get in the air.
Oh, perfect timing for the build video if you need any tips!
Does this quad fit the O3 Au and Cam? Thinking of picking one up
I'm just finishing up a new cam mount that fits the 03 air unit camera. If it's not up on thingiverse when you need it email me at falconradfpv@gmail.com and I'll send you the file. I'll try to get it up on thingiverse soon though.
@@FalconRadFPV Ah brilliant! I think I'm gonna go for the Falcon 7 now 😄
@@FalconRadFPV Will it have props in view for the O3?
Super build so clean should be proud of your self love watching it many thanks for your time effort .
A well thought build and frame design love it .
Thanks 👍 very much! I really appreciate your comment!
Just ordered this frame I’m excited to build this one
Awesome! I hope your build goes well. Let me know if you run into any issue's and I'll try and help you out.
Great video, I just finished bulding my Falcon a couple of weeks ago looking forward to mountain diving.
Definitely agree with others that you don't want to conformal over the barometer as that will render it useless.
Another thing I did was use a spare grommet in the hole running the camera wire through to avoid the sharp edges from rubbing through the camera wire.
Phenomenal job on the frame! It flies awesome.
Thanks for the tips, great idea about the grommet for the wires through the hole in the frame! I'll keep that in mind and maybe include one or two 4mm circular holes in future frame designs.
What other quads you have and flown?
@@dreswan1 All of my other quads are 5 inch frames. I have 3 CMW Mofos for racing, two BQE bangers, a QAVs, three Diatone Roma frames - 1 v1, and two v2, one is an HD version, and a few others.
Hi Conrad! I want to thank you for this great frame. It came to me about half a year ago, but unfortunately I was unable to fix one issue. It flew like bad tuned tinywhoop... I tried many motors, betaflight and blheli settings without success. But only today I realized it can be a bad gyro. Fortunately my FC has the second gyro and when I enable it, my drone flew like expensive car ) It really flies smoothly and stable. Nice frame!
I'm so glad you got it figured out!
I don't consider myself a professional Soldering expert, but I have got some really nice joints on my ESC's and motor wire of the past, and felt really good about how clean they turned out, but I just solder up the 50amp esc you have to another Chimera build, and couldn't for the life of me get a good joint.
I've been finding with the increase in current handling on some newer ESC's that I need to really turn up the heat since the large copper traces pull the heat away very efficiently. I actually just bought a new soldering iron a few months ago because my old one wouldn't cut it anymore with the newer ESC's.
excellent video well detailed!! got the AOS 7 and waiting on your Falcon...nice VTX info I'll need to get one for comparo. those tiny pads though on the FC; and the ones you not using big as cornflakes!!
Thank you!
Awesome build video. Currently waiting on my AOS Falcon 7 to arrive and can't wait to get building! Thanks for all your great content!
Awesome! Thank you!
Seriously awesome video thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching
Great content for people who've been wanting to put together a LR build like me :) Love your videos, keep it up!
Should be studying for my uavs test but this was a nice break
Thanks, will do!
Great video, those frames are designed by a guy here in the UK. He knows his stuff.
Thanks, Actually I designed this frame and Chris Rosser helped me with some modifications to help stiffen the design. Great guy, and ya he's definitely got a talent with his in-depth understanding of electronics and physics.
@@FalconRadFPV Ah, my apologies. I stand corrected. I thought he designed them. But looking back now I remember that he said he had a big input in these frames and they were from elsewhere. Great frames by the way
Awesome build video brother!! Looks to be a good solid kwad for sure!! If I hadn't already built the super g I definitely would've built this one. Still may at some point!! Love your work and all your videos!! I have backed up and pretty much watched the all. Super good channel!!
A little tip I figured out for GPS users..
For the first GPS "cold start" at new locations -- (possibly taking up to 5 minutes to lock on to satellites at first power up) - Use a portable charge pack used for charging cell phones and the correct cable to just boot the FC & GPS before you start flying at any new location to avoid unnecessary VTX heat up. (Using a lipo or li-ion for GPS cold starts waste mah and heats up the VTX while waiting.) Its just like plugging in to a computer.. it will power the FC, receiver and GPS but not the VTX. After the first initial cold start it only takes seconds to lock on, on all packs afterwards. Hopefully this tip will help save wear and tare on someone's VTX someday! :) Happy flying!!
Thank you very much! Great tip my friend, very good idea.
Or you can buy a VIFLY gps-mate.
Thanks I used this as a waterproofing tutorial. We’ll see in a few months if it works
Good luck!
@@FalconRadFPV Btw thanks for your videos. subbed :) been coming back to a couple of them to preplan my long range built and just noticed they wrere all the same channel
SUCH A GOOD VIDEO!! The detail is ideal. Thank you for doing this.
Glad it was helpful!
I've started putting my ground for the vtx and camera on the same pad seems to help quite a bit with noise
Thanks for the tip. I remember hearing about that before. I tried it once before when I had video noise issues, but haven't done it since, I forgot all about it. I should test and see if it clears my video up anymore. (it's already pretty clean though)
@@FalconRadFPV yea I'm sure your video signal is pretty nice your build is very meticulous wish mine were half as nice I'm not as patient
This is an exceptional build and very educational. I’ll definitely be using some of your techniques in the near future. New sub. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Great video this will be the way I go when build thanks falcon I joined the six mile club Saturday air2 s army out
Awesome build!! Now you just need some LEDs for under the arms for some flair! Jk, red build looks awesome and I love the goPro mount, it allows for more space on the top plate for batteries for sure!
Thanks very much! I've actually bought LED's for it but couldn't decide if it was going to look too cheesy all lite up.
I would love to see a DJI Air unit build. I think your frame is amazing but it would give me much more confidence to see a build because I don't have much experience.
Possibly in the future but at the moment I don't own any DJI gear.
BF set would be nice also settings on your GPS
I have a video on my RUclips channel about the GPS settings as well. Should be in the quads and gear playlist or folder.
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks check it out
Thanks for this tutorial, FalconRad!! Been waiting for ever for a detailed long range full build tutorial. All that is missing is the Betaflight setup tutorial, maybe the next video?
I just recently posted the betaflight setup video, gps video and even a short video about my blheli 32 setup. It's all there on my RUclips page. Check the quads and gear playlist.
Looking forward to build your frame. Your video will
Help thanks
Oh great, thank you for the interest in it. Let me know if you need any help with the build.
@@FalconRadFPV have you done this frame on 4s? I'm assuming you like the 6s configuration. weight is not a concern with the 6s?
Okay, let me share my coating experience, from cold mother Russia.. Im using Plastic-71 (acrilic base cover).
1. Minimum 3 thin layers.
2. Coat ONLY after all soldering done. Just lay the quad bottom side up, unscrew all motors carefully and pull the frame off to cover the bottom of your electronic.
3. Don't coat buttons, mic, plugs, baro sensor.
4. You can also use "waterproof xt60 plug" (the one with silicone gasket).
Oh there's an XT60 with a gasket? I'll have to get some of those!
Nice!! Thank for this detailed build video. I've put together loads of planes but his will be my first custom built quad. This video will be a huge for me once that last of the parts show up. Been stressing a bit but I feel better about it now.
Glad it will be of help. Hey, no need to stress over your upcoming build. If you get stuck on something just search for a Joshua Bardwell video about it 😉 He has literally covered every single quad problem in his over 2,000 videos. Also, I always answer every comment and email as well as I can. If you need a hand figuring something out just email me about it and we'll get it sorted out.
@@FalconRadFPV That is very gracious. Watching your work is a pleasure. It's what got me interested in upping my game. I think I have the electronics/frame assembly nailed with this video. Pretty much everything I need has arrived. Need some proper conformal coating and a few other build materials I can get quickly from Amazon. Need to finish a couple of long range plane builds and it goes on the bench. Also need to figure out how to print TPU. Have a roll but never used it. Likely a Christmas/New Years build.
If you're ever headed to the Kootenays, reach out. We have 3 spare bedrooms in our farmhouse now that the kids are gone. One has it's own bathroom and living area. We live in the middle of FPV heaven. Few people. Lots of mountains, creeks, lakes and glaciers I know well. You'd be more than welcome. You'd love flying in the Selkirk and Purcell ranges. You'd eat it up.
i just built an fr7 which seems very similar cept the fpv cam above the gopro
Nice, the FR7 is a good quad! I also have one. It is somewhat similar in overall appearance but they are VERY different designs. The AOS Falcon 7 is more streamlined and weighs less. It's intended for extended range flights. The FR7 is intended for mid range flights at a fast speed.
I've used a very different design with the arms. The FR7 arms all come together in the middle. I did it with front and back arms having significant separation. It affects vibrations and weight quite a bit, two different approaches.
For my design the hd cam and fpv cam only look attached together. They are separated parts keeping the tpu prints small, they were designed to be as stiff as possible. The FPV cam in no way connects to the gopro mount.
My design has two plates protruding forward to support the cameras. 2mm and 2.5mm, with an 8mm separation which is supported by four standoffs. This structure is significantly stronger than the single 2.5 or 3mm carbon plate that goes forward to support the cameras on the FR7. To maximize the strength of the outer surfaces where the majority of the stress is placed during a flexing motion. Anyways I think it supports the camera better. Although the FR7 manages to get the weight of the GoPro about 10mm+ lower which helps.
I also opted to use 8mm carbon for a stiffer and more squared arm design. The FR7 uses a more rectangular arm design. I have also built in bracing to support the rear arms because on my design they extend back differently and are longer than the front arms.
As well the cut outs for weight savings on my design were done by a computer program with the goal of maximum stiffness with reduced weight. The cutouts on the FR7 "look to me like they were done by a person with reducing weight in mind as well as ease of build and access"
All that said, I personally think the FR7 is one of the best 7" frames out there. Only because it is open source it does not get the credit it deserves. Nobody can make money off it so nobody (big on youtube) talks about it on youtube. I really liked my FR7. I only stopped using it because I wanted to shift to something a bit lighter with more range. I also wanted the FPV camera down low again, and as stiff of a frame as possible so I designed my own frame. Which in my option is quite a bit different than an FR7.
@@FalconRadFPV yes the FR7 is heavy, my Armattan TI7 lr with thame battery and gopro is 400g lighter
Cool build. About the conformal coating you might not want to cover the top of the mosfet chips, as the coating is less heat conductive (especially silicone) and you could end up overheating the mosfets. You only need coating on the solder joints and exposed pads to avoid shorts and corrosion from the elements.
Thanks for the tip. With my long range quads I've never felt an ESC get barely even warm. So I don't worry about ESC temps on long range builds, I always use an esc that is bigger than needed as well. On builds that get hot ESC's though the conformal coating won't work very well either, it can melt at higher temperatures.
Great vidéo thanks, i think is better to solder your front xt60 on below pad esc
It's more easy and clean separate the cable ,with the dji airunit it's impossible to do the same, i have only the front xt60 and adapter
Thank yop, I have on previous builds put two XT60's and had them both come out at the sides (one on each side) and stay away from where the air unit is mounted.
Also with that amount of cap added, you will see a jump in voltage, likely higher than 100V, when connecting. I would put a TVS diode across the main lead pads on the ESC in addition, to get rid of that voltage spike. TVS rated few volts higher than your battery pack fully charged. You will still have issues with fair amount of inrush current on connection and you could blow your caps after few connection cycles. 100uF is a lot of capacitance to connect directly on a battery with "infinite" available current
Ya I've hoping to find the antispark version of an XT60 but I can only find them in XT90 connectors. Oh ya I guess I could just make one like you're saying, it'll have to try that out, thanks.
I wish I can get the all the parts and you could build it for me and I would pay for your services. you did a great job.
Keeo an eye out, I am thinking about getting a website up and selling prebuilt BNF long range quads through it.
if i have lost a few cap from the esc this exact one ...then as long as i have a 1000uf 35v low ers capacitor on the main pads will it be ok and shoulld I worry about trying to reflow them onto the board and risk damage more or just leave it as it is ....lost 3 small caps towards the opposite end of the battery lead so I just added a big cap to compensate
Sorry I'm not an expert at electronics, but I would say if you are using the quad for long range that you really want a well working quality ESC to fly with. I would go with trying to add the caps back on or replacing the ESC. Use the damaged one for a freestyle build.
how to chose the right capacitor and where to find information which ones are actually any good/decent? i read the quality difference is really big
Worth mentioning- rainwater is essentially distilled water, and as such is non-conductive. Waterfalls, however, may be a different story, and ocean mist will certainly be a short circuit hazard.
Ya I think the waterfalls will have minerals mixed in. This valley is VERY dusty even up on the glaciers.
Great tutorial!!!!! Are you going to sell this build!!
I've been thinking about making some BNF builds to sell. There's a lot involved though. I would have to start a business with tax #'s etc... to be able to buy parts from wholesale distributors.
@@FalconRadFPV well, if you have a old 7inch collecting dust, I'd be interested!!
Any comparable stack to the one used in this video? The one in your parts list is unobtainium.
This frame is treating me pretty well so far, except for one thing. The GPS is continually losing lock. Thinking it's because I've got too many wires sharing space with the GPS power wires. My considerations on fixing it have either been to stuff a regulator or LC filter back there to get cleaner power, or maybe trying to learn some 3D modeling to replace the GoPro mounting location with a GPS mount. What are your thoughts on this? (Using an M8Q-5883 btw.)
Update: Disregard this issue. It was thick cloud cover blocking the satellite signals. Found that several of my quads couldn't get a solid lock anymore. As soon as I got blue skies, it was 20 sats.
Great, glad to hear that it seems to be working well now.
Hİ. If I connect the xt60 cable to my own esc at 18:18 as in the video section, will I have a problem with the Holybro tekko 32?
I collect fr7 so I need your knowledge
Great speed!!!
Thanks! 😀
31:55 that was the conformal making it hard to connect the wires to the cam!
One of the small prices to pay for a little extra piece of mind flying through some waterfall mist.
Please read the ***note*** in the description if using the parts list!
-When conformal coating the flight controller you should first identify the barometer. Then you need to cover it (it has a tiny hole in the top) with a piece of tape. Remove the tape when the conformal coating is complete and has dried.
heres my 7 incher ruclips.net/video/Z_4dy6K1uxM/видео.html
have you tried covering the barometer with some sort of breathing foam? they tend to be jumpy when wind goes straight into the hole
what do you call the braid over the motor wires and where do you get it?
great build
It's braided-mesh-wire-sleeve-for-esc-and-motor-wires
pyrodrone.com/products/braided-mesh-wire-sleeve-for-esc-and-motor-wires-3-8-x-2ft
I read your note above about the 4n1 ESC, I got the v2.2 and running BlHeli 32.9 and still get errors. do you have anything connected to UART5? on the v2.2 it says UART5 for ESC Telemetry
Strony z rzeczami pewnie już nie aktualne bo po wejściu w link z opisu pisze, że nie znaleziono. Tak jakby strona była już nie aktywna . A setup bardzo fajny i pięknie wygląda. Pozdrawiam z Polski
Thanks for letting me know!
Finally getting back to this after a winter of skiing. Do you have a source for the Panasonic capacitors? I can find the Panasonic Alu Elec capacitor in 50V 1000UF but not sure if it's a suitable substitute. Lots of Nichicon available and some Chinese JIADONG. I know nothing about capacitors.
I use the panasonic FR series from digikey. Last I checked they were out of stock though. A 680uf would probably be fine as well.
This is sick totally building this I’ve built a different drone but I still feel kind of new will this build work with the XRotor Micro 60A 4-6S ESC AIO and the TBS rx receiver AIO instead of what you use? I would hope to get good range still.
It may work alright, I'm not sure. I try to use separated components and space them apart to help avoid interference between them. I always use a separate esc and flight controller never an AIO with both on one board.
Can you mount on GoPro hello 11 black on it ?? What’s the recommended battery and brand to use on this build . ??
There is a hero 11 mini mount for it, I can't remember if I've made on up for the 11 black yet. If you need a mount made for it contact me at Falconradfpv@gmail.com and let me know the details. My preference for the battery is two 6s 18650 li-ion packs run in parallel. Right now I'm using Molicel P28a cells. I'm not sure if any premade packs from stores will use them, but ya Molicel P series cells are really good, P26a and P28a.
great build tutorial, what are the benefits of a double xt60 battery setup?
Only that I can use the packs one at a time on smaller builds. It's not recommended unless you want to do the same. It is much more difficult to solder for most ESC's.
hey friend I set up a lr with these same settings there
but I can't configure my PID and the drone is shaking
could you please share your pids with me so i might be able to solve the problem?
thank you and nice work you here on youtube😀
Look in the quads and gear playlist on my youtube page. There are several videos about getting setup in there to go along with this one.. One of them talks about and shows my PID tune.
Looks amazing! I'd recommend you using better type of solder.
I've found the MG chemicals 63/37 to be the best that I have used so far. I think it's a good quality solder.
@@FalconRadFPV Try kester 👍
I use liquid electrical tape to secure plastic nuts. It peels off if you need to remove them.
Oh that's a great idea! I'm going to get some next time I'm at the store.
Thx for the build. I have a hard time finding 1000uf 50v low esr caps. Is it ok to solder in 2x 680uf 50v for an example. Will it be the same as 1x 1360 cap?
a single 680uf will probably be good enough. You could connect them in parallel (NOT a series connection) if you want to use 2 of them.
Very detailed video!
I saw in the description that the iflight ESC you're using had a "bad batch"... I would honestly reccomend a switch to something more premium. I've really liked my Hobbywing 60a and Radix 2 combo, but the hobbywing ESC on it's own is pretty solid. I've also heard AMAZING things about the Newbeedrone Infinity ESCs, one guy flies it on his 5in and has had 2 of the 20x20 (!) stacks going strong for I think around 2 years even after full water damage and lots of crashing (usual 5in quad things). I think the 30x30 Infinity esc is probably just as solid.
Anyways, as always, love the content!
Thanks, I'll keep those brands in mind when I get my next ESC. Probably soon so I can replace that iFlight ESC. I also just got one of the Foxeer Reaper ESC's to do some 8s testing on but it's for a different quad project. I should probably get an anti-spark XT90 for that one. Thanks for your comment.
@@FalconRadFPV you should also look into the holy bro tekko it's a good amount less noisy than the hobbywing 60 amp although that's also a pretty solid choice.
How does coating the FETs, afects the heat dissipation?
I can't honestly say for sure. But from my experience flying long range my ESC doesn't get hot. My setup is 1300kv on 6s with 7" props so the amp draw is about 13-15 amps at 60 kph. I rarely pull mote than 40 or 50 amps over a long range flight so 10 or 12 amps per ESC maximum. My ESC is always cold. If an ESC get hot enough it will melt the coating off. I made a 9lbs hovercraft than ran a lot of amps and it melted the coating off of the 4in1 ESC I was using.
Nice clean build man👍🏻
Thanks for watching
hi Conrad,
could you please Share the stl File of the new GPS mount for the bigger GPS Module.
i am Not really Happy with the small GPS either.
great Job again, i really Love this frame, even it's a Bit on the heavy Side.
thanks in advance
JT
Oh sorry though I had posted that to thingyverse, I'll get it up on there tonight. Ya I hear ya, I really wanted the weight to be a bit lower. I do plan on doing more testing on the frame and trying to trim some weight for future versions. I'll do my best to keep future versions parts to be backwards compatible as well.
ok, just posted the other GPS mount.
could use a xt60 parallel adaptor to get the two batteries going,
might be easier that all that on those pads... but..
I have done that before (made a 4 way splitter for a 9lb hover craft I built, ran it on 4 x 1500mah 4s lipo's)
Using two XT60's makes the build part a bit of a pain but after that it's nice and easy to hook up two batteries or just one and zip tie the front XT60 to the front standoffs.
@@FalconRadFPV worth the effort if you can..
But I understand why that would be super frustrating for some.
Although I have been using one monster pack...
Think I'll copy you on my FalconRad... Might as well..
just wondering if I should use my usual Kabob 30mm or 2806.5
Creative, very cool.
Thanks!
Is that a complete list of were I can buy these product? Also what type of transmitter?
I have build videos for both of my frames. The build videos will go over the parts lists. The Falcon 7 release video also covers the parts used for the build. Look in the quads and gear playlist on my RUclips page for all my informational video's. You will find a video about my goggles and FPV setup and another video about my control link and transmitter setup.
Great!!! Do you have a link for the capacitor holder used in the video?
Here you go.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5168243
What is the braided stuff you use as motor wire protection?
It's really just for looks, here's a link to a variety of colors for it:
pyrodrone.com/products/braided-mesh-wire-sleeve-for-esc-and-motor-wires-3-8-x-2ft?variant=39356358787115
awesome build! Thank you!
Glad you like it!
Very nice! What's your all up weight? How does the quad handle with 6S2P 21700 LiIons?
My build is 750g with props, gopro, battery straps, 2 x 1000 uf caps.
2 x 21700 6s is 900g this goes several km further but fly's heavy feeling, better for cruising a ridge line than diving a waterfall.
2 x 18650 6s is 640g this still has decent range and is quite noticeably more maneuverable and capable of pulling out of dives nicely.
@@FalconRadFPV thanks for the info! What’s your flight time (assume cruising a ridge line) with one 21700 6S?
Nice videos my friend 👋
Thank you 👍
I flew my AOS Falcon 7 for the first time today and it flys very nicely :) Thank you. Just wondering if there is a compatible 3D print camera mount design for a DJI Osmo Action? I’ve got the Osmo Action, version 1.
Oh great, glad to hear it's flying well for you. I don't think I've seen anyone post an osmo action mount yet. If you email me (falconradfpv@gmail.com)about it so I have a reminder then I'll try to make one up in the next week or so when I have some extra time.
hello, what battery do you use? What is the total weight of your drone with battery? I built a 7 inch thanks to your videos, thanks!!!! Saludos desde Chile
Frame weight: Carbon - 190g, Hardware - 26g, required TPU parts - 30g
The build is 730grams with props, battery straps, gpro and mount.
I use either a 600 gram 4200mah 6s lipo OR
6s2p 18650 li-ion 5200mah total and 640 grams OR
6s2p 21700 li-ion 8400mah total and 905 grams (this one feels quite heavy in the air, with a gopro its pushing the limits of what a 7" prop should be lifting)
is that a colored sleeve on your driver to indicate size?
Oh the red and black? It's the silicone cover from 14g wire, I put it on there so that I can use my finger tips to spin the hex driver quickly when a faster is just getting started.
@@FalconRadFPVoooh, pretty sweet. I knew it had some purpose. I like little stuff like that.
I was curious about how and where you mounted components. Interesting how you installed two xt60's on the esc.
Normally people would just use one large 6s2p pack with a single lead. But I have other quads that use only 6s1p or another quad that uses 6s2p but it has to have one 6s1p on top and one underneath. So I keep them separated as two 6s1p packs instead of a single 6s2p pack.
I'm ready to order the frame. First hurdle for an amateur, screw type, should I select Countersunk (Stock design)?
Sorry way behind on comments! Ya go with stock its my recommended setup.
AWSM video, could you provide a link to the Cap holder .stl file ?
Here you go,
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5168243
Very nice tutorial. Thanks for that ! ... question: you are powering the cam from FC. Did you consider use the 5V from Rush VTX? Can you compare powering from FC and from VTX? ...
You're welcome. I usually use the FC power since it will usually have some ok filtering built in. I will switch to the VTX if I get bad video when powered from the FC but I haven't needed to do that in a long time now. Maybe I'll experiment and try the VTX for power on my next build coming up soon.
Can you tell us why silicone conformal was used vs acrylic or urethane? I assume heat resistance but wanted to know if there was another reason.
It's what I noticed others already using and when I compared it to acrylic, the silicone seemed to be the better choice.
@@FalconRadFPV Logical answer. Thanks!
how to decide between 2806,5 vs. 2807 vs. 2808 motors? thanks in advance!
for more range go smaller, for more power to handle wind go bigger. I recommend the F-90 2806.5 for the avg. long range 7" build. and the 2808 for a bit more power.
Have you thought of selling ready build setups?
Yes I have been thinking about it. Still deciding about making the investment and starting a web store for that purpose.
@@FalconRadFPV To be honest if there was an pre-build Falcon 7 for DJI with crossfire I would likelly pull the triger and made a purchase. I think it is the way to go forward.
How much payload weight can it lift?
My first drone is a DJI mini 2 but I really want to build a drone that will meet all my other needs with the same functions and more.
Any suggestion for me would be appreciated greatly as this drone I want might be just wishful thinking.
I want to build a drone that.
Is long range
Can carry payloads
Water proof or at least rain proof
Has auxiliary digital inputs and outputs channels for future home brew projects.
Can handle two or more video feeds through the controller with a dji mini 2 style type overlapping telemetry.
No geo fencing
Has 3 axis glimbal control that is stable and upgradable.
Has GPS stabilization, RTH and a Find drone feature.
Just the holy grail of drones I guess.
It can fly with a full gopro and a 900gram battery. Woah you dream drone sounds hard to find. Just for kicks check out Nurk FPV's video about a cinelifter with a huge gimble on it. I runs INav "I THINK", and can carry a big payload of up to a 2kg camera.
ruclips.net/video/FqyWTdFbOGI/видео.html
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks I will, I think You would be right about that drone being hard to find but in the future I think we will see such flight controllers that will make it possible.
@@craigturner3237 what’s some really wild things thinking. And you wanna do all that with the DJI remote.
@@cafub2650 All those things exist right now but perhaps not in any one flight controller at the moment. I most often correctly guess what sort of thing will exist in the near future so I will hold out until it comes out. Do you think I'm wrong about this? It will be here in the not to distant future. I would bet money on it.
Dearest sir .4th time im watching your awesome video ,taking bullet notes of everything you doing ,im waiting for the batteries and the camera ,this is my very first build .Yes i know this built is for those advanced builders but thanks the Gods i am an extreme fast learner (with a slow budget lol)anyways ,i got my googles too and i will fly analogue ,my googles are Skyzone o2o (this is what i can afford sorry)what antenna you would advise me to use?
I would suggest a good 13dbi patch antenna, like the TrueRC X2-air. Or I have a video about how to make your own 7 turn helical antenna but you need a 3d printer (or a friend of yours), in will be in my "quads and gear" playlist.
How did you get that big gps print I cannot find it!
It's just the FPV cam mount and gopro mount in the front, two separate 3d prints. They are all on thingiverse, just search for aos falcon 7 or falconrad fpv.
Nice video.
Hlo sir can you show bitaflight configuration video pl
Check my RUclips page I posted a betaflight video just recently.
I found a thingiverse file for the gps/sma/bardpole mount. Mind if I ask what the spacing is between the standoffs?
The rear standoffs are 34mm center to center.
Here are all the AOS Falcon 7 stl files from thingiverse.
www.thingiverse.com/search?q=aos+falcon+7&type=things&sort=relevant
@@FalconRadFPV Thank you brother!!! 👍
Great video! Looking to buy your frame for my next project. Are you using the countersunk frame in this build? What are the advantages with this mounting screw type?
Thanks for your interest. I always use countersunk. It just ends up flush with the top surface. That way your battery doesn't get damaged scraping on the top of the button head fasteners since they stick up 2 or 3 mm above the surface of the top plate. For underneath it will help prevent the fasteners from getting gouged if you land on rocks or pavement.
hey brother i'm beginner for drone tech, but have a great ambition to work on it from my childhood. the drone parts are not that much available in my country. i live in Ethiopia. i have seen a lot of videos from RUclips about drones. but i haven't seen such a wonderful channel that shows each and every step like this. thank u bro thank you very much. but if it is ur good willing could you send me a video of the remote controller part pleaseee? because u used some additional antennas for this best long range drone bro to make it more better. please post the remote controller part please if u can? told u i'm beginner please bro
Check out this video for info about my transmitter and control link.
ruclips.net/video/uJTIoqfgb0k/видео.html
This is another similar one about my video setup.
ruclips.net/video/FJ2Q6tZvGeY/видео.html
It's a lot to learn at first, check out Joshua Bardwell on youtube for videos to help with setting up the electronics. He has hundred's of videos about building fpv drones.
Hi, beautiful build, I was just wondering how much roughly does the AOS falcon 7 Fram weigh? I can't seem to find any info on the weight online.
Thanks!
I've also wondered if this frame would work for fast cruising, as I'm just changing frames and right now my quad can cruise at 100kph, I saw a reply to a comment about you talking about how the fr7 is for fast cruising, and the AOS is for long range, and am unsure if that would make this frame unsuitable for high speeds.
Many thanks again!
- The 8mm thick arms have increased the overall weight, but also improved the frames vibration performance.
- Frame weight: Carbon - 190g, Hardware - 26g, required TPU parts - 30g
- Package will ship with motor fasteners due to the extra thick arms and braces. (10mm & 15mm)
As far as speed it's capable of it should be very comparable to the FR7.
Can you please share the data for the camera mount to print it? I got my own 3d printer. Thanks
Check here to get the .stl files for all the TPU parts.
www.thingiverse.com/search?q=aos+falcon+7&type=things&sort=relevant
@@FalconRadFPV thank you
what camera angle do you have?
about 27 or 28 degrees.
Hello. I bought your frame and built the Quad with your settings. I also Made a battery with 6s2P molicel 42 21700 cells. Made 2 flights yet and the Quad flies great :) i have 2 Problems. I would be very thankful for your Help. One Problem with tbs range and one with the GPS. It doesnt find satellites. Could you Help me with this please? Do you have a Email Adress where i could send you some Photos?
Falconradfpv@gmail.com
I'll do what I can to help you out. I'll be away on vacation starting tomorrow but I will be checking my email every couple of days.
hey is the wire motor protection 8mm or 10mm?
I think the braided cover for the motor wires was 3/8 inch. The arms them selves are 10mm wide.
Is there a reason you chose 2 1000uF caps instead of just 1 2000uf? It seems like you'd get better performance per mass and dollar.
Because of the size and how much space there is to fit them. Also when I bought them I was going to have them right inside the frame.
What sort of flight time can this achieve with LiIon?
With this 7" setup and a full size gopro camera, about 20min and 20km with a large heavy 21700 cell 6s2p setup. The same setup with 18650 cells is quite a bit lighter and fly's noticeably better but get about maybe 20% less range (16km 16min)
@@FalconRadFPV thanks! That's cool!
Does flux affect the coating?
Oh that's a good question. I haven't seen the waterproofing having any issues covering solder joints at all. But I don't ever use extra flux on any FC or ESC soldering. The flux inside the solder itself seems to be enough to get good solid solder joints on the FC and ESC tabs for me. I would think that if there was extra flux added that it may be best to clean it off after soldering and before waterproofing.
If you can see a brown sticky patch beside the solder joint then that I think would be extra flux to be cleaned off. That's what I notice on my Li-ion cells when I solder to them since I use a good amount of extra flux for that.
@@FalconRadFPV thanks for the tips
Awesome build! Just out of curiosity, that does the final build weigh (without batteries)? Sorry if you already mentioned it in the video I admit I ddint watch the full 1,5 hours.
Ps: I would love to get into long range stuff myself but sadly it is illegal to fly more than a couple of hunder meters away here in europe :-(
its 635 grams fully built with props and battery straps. No gopro or battery.
I have been interested about long range builds. I have tried to found out what is good VTX for HD VIDEO, but since i live in EU. Most of our transmission powers are highly limited. So it is hard to find VTX that can do at least 10KM HD transmissions. I don't really yet want to invest to Herelink. Can any of traditiona Telemetries crossfire, etc do HD video. i don't really need low latency since i don't plan to fly high speed. Are those mushy fvp video qualities i see in videos because Analog video or low latency setting or because bad fvp camera.
Use open hd. the videos is sent via gms
It's probably analog if the DVR (goggle video) doesn't look very good. Crossfire is only a control link no video transmission. There are 2.4 or 1.2ghz VTX's that should get more range than the traditional 5.8ghz VTX though. But the antennas get bigger at the lower ghz.
You could easily do ASMR :D
double check those plastic nuts. Loctite can make some plastics crumble. They'll crack into pieces randomly.
Thanks for the tip. I find its ok on some of them. It made the clear iFlight ones break apart pretty quickly though!
I just watched your most recent flight video, so cool! But I noticed in this video the thumbnail pic shows you using a Gnb 6s 4200mah lipo, so did you switch from the two 6s Li-ion packs to one lipo?
For mid range flights, testing / freestyle at the field I use the lipo's. For long range flights I use 6s2p Li-ion, either 18650 5200mah or 21700 8400mah.
@@FalconRadFPV Haha those molicel p42 or whatever the name, are amazing, im looking at getting a pair for 8400 as well. right now I have two 6s 3300mah lipos and two 6s 3000mah VTC6 packs for 6000mah but they don't last as long as i hoped, they ran for 20 mins i was hoping to see closer to 30 min flights but that was before i realized they weren't actually 30amp rated and were really 15amp.
Awesome build and very informative video. Do you conformal coat your GPS? I'm using the Matek M8Q-5883 and I'm not sure if I can coat the whole thing with conformal coating. Thank you for this super helpful video!
Yes I do coat it as well. just not inside the plug for the wires of course.
@@FalconRadFPV great thank you very much
Are you using Inav or Betaflight for this build?
Betaflight.
nice build ! you did a crime of conformal coating the baro !
haha ya you caught me. Even I make mistakes!
Good job👍
Thanks
I'm waiting video maiden this drones
Are those low esr capacitors?
Yes they are. Panasonic FR series, from digikey. Shipping sucks but it's not too bad if you get a whole bunch of caps at once.