Hay man ..how much I have a vest need a plate as these I don't wanna go thru all this shytt zero tools disabled can unsell me one? Enuff for rear n chest?
curious with an idea to try. ive done some construction work and the times i would break concrete with a jackhammer, a huge nightmare was trying to break it down with wire mesh inside.. maybe try including a wire mesh or something similar in your milk jug plates? not so much to prevent breaking but reduce the stretching as well, which of course would give more penetration resistance.
If your going to laminate HDPE and Kevlar you need to incorporate the fabric in multiple layers in the plastic. Putting one layer on the other will do very little. You would probably need to get your plastic up to a higher temperature to make it flow through the fabric. The idea would be to have several layers in essentialy molten plastic to create a cohesive solid piece. Good Luck!!!
I had good results with 1 layer of polycarbonate sheet (glass works better but is destroyed after one shot), 4 layers of Kevlar fabric (alternating direction), 1/2 inch HDPE block (same process you use) all wrapped in a sheet of fiberglass with resin. The fiberglass and poly sheet tended to deform the projectiles and the Kevlar slowed them enough that the HDPE could catch them. I would love to see that setup with ballistic nylon instead of fiberglass wrap. I used a hydraulic press to clear out voids and air pockets. Great videos!
Great video, two part video was the right way to do it. I always love to see how people build anything, everyone problem solves their own solutions so its interesting to watch what methods you use. Cant wait to see your ballistic mask video great idea. A spartan type or riot type ballistic shield would be cool as well. Great work brother.
The interesting thing is that the plastic behaves a lot like steel, and can teach us. Neither has any surface tension. Fiber layers can add this quality to HDPE and steel. Helicopter armor had a steel mesh matrix inside aluminum plate.
I wish I would have seen this before my parents passed. My step father's was a body guy. He worked with fiber glass. And had a business. Did dragster bodies, funny cat bodies all cars . He had chip brushes acid brushes ever size rollers.. every wrap you can roll the resin into the fiberglass and get out all air bubbles. And he would use plastic spackling knives. When you roll it it pushes the resin into better then you can take the resin that squeeze out. You can scrap it back into the top and roll it back in.. it's a learning process.. he made molds out of fiber glass . With the same clay you use. And styrofoam. He can cut it and sand the shapes. It would be your positive shapes. With the styrofoam you can deal it before you put the resin and fiberglass to it. He would trim the fiberglass with a numeric buzz saw with like jig saw blades. You can get your supplies/ tools and blades , rollers and such. You can also take fiberglass courses at a local college. My step father never wore a resperator. And he died from brain cancer. He had it in his synus and brain behind his right eye.. so Ware you resperator and gloves.. even like dish gloves. And he used acatones for clean up. I also have a plastic torch that bonds plastics together. I would love to get you to make me two 10"×12" shooter cut multi curve plastic a inch and a half thick. I would love to try using the bulistic nylon. My wife will never let me use her oven to melt the plastics. I can trade you some of my step father's fiberglass tool. Like I have two buzz saws. And I'll film what I have and can send it to you. I'll wait for your reply if you are interested. I can also pay you to make the plastic with those dimensions. You can make them a quarter of an inch bigger. I can sand it to size my self.. it's up to you..
Dude, how neutered you sound and lacking of drive. Get a toaster oven and get melting. Like, you can't think of any other way to heat something besides an oven so you just give up and bug someone else about doing it for you?
My buddy used to work in a dairy. He got ahold of a bunch of the plastic pellets used for making milk bottles. We melted it an pressed the plastic into a mold. Just the plain plastic worked great for stopping upto 40 cal.
Dude you can probably get a whole bunch of them out of the dumpsters at a public school do it after hours you know how touchy people are about unauthorized people coming on school campus blah blah blah I used to go to this local high school after hours and go to the back loading dock and they had a hot water faucet and regular cold water and out wash my ass cuz I was homeless
I have not tried the following yet. However, I just purchased the largest countertop oven I could find here locally with these things in mind. So, what I keep circling back to is mixing The HDPE with chopped up fiberglass. I'm certain this would perform well above HDPE plastic alone.
I think I'll try making this with my 27 tonne log splitter with a flat plate attachment. Machime press from Harbor freight might give best results but I don't have one. Thanks for the knoledge brother!
Seems you could clamp them and put in oven, which at ur temp won't burn wood. Try outer layer of 1/8" steel to try to flatten projectile to keep its penetration more shallow? Love to see an experimenter
I'm currently working on this project again, and I will for sure be adding some metal to some of the plates to see what I can stop, along with other plate ideas that I've come up with. Some of the plates that I will be testing came from my viewers, so check back soon on this channel! If you like experimentation you should check out my stab resistant armor build, that one took alot of try's to get right.
I've use that brand before! that was one of my very first tests years ago, that stuff is very strong. If you look on my table in some of my newer videos you'll see a can of it sitting in the back corner lol. It'll be used in future projects.
Haha, yeah that old gross thing got ripped out and sent to the dump about a month ago, if you watch my bulletproof glass video you'll see my shiny new black one.
If you us a PYREX baking dish the hdpe will release itself when it cools down, no paper needed. The pyrex comes in many sizes and shapes, just put your hdpe in the dish and as it melts down add more hdpe as needed for the desired thickness. No kneading necessary unless you're trying the make some design.
I'm not sure how other plastics will do in pyrex because I've never tried it, another good dish to melt hdpe in is the type of stoneware that is glazed.
I just figured because of the non porous property of glass that other plastics might not stick to it. I've used plaster covered in acrylic before, that worked well so I could see glazed stoneware working well. I wonder if glass would work with epoxy, that could be a cool experiment. Thanks for the information, I'll look into trying this out on some of my future projects.
I've used high temp silicone mold release before and that by far is the best, however brazilian carnauba wax (what most car waxes are made of) works for epoxy forming. I use car wax often for themoset resins, but have never tried it these higher temp. plastics, it would be interesting to see how well it would hold up!
Glad you enjoyed it, you should check out my new video on the topic, I was able to stop rifle rounds using this method with a little help from some metals and ceramics! ruclips.net/video/u-FBHZ2gaXU/видео.html
I've never tried PET, which is the #1 on recyclable plastics, but I have tried a few others like polycarbonate and acrylic to name a few, and polycarbonate is probably the best overall. You can see it in some of my bulletproof glass videos, and when I compare store bought ceramics for ballistic protection.
Would you try adding a square of chopped glass fibre mat to the top and bottom of the mould. I am expecting some of it to embed in the HDPE but the majority to be left dry. When you wet the mat with resin, will it make delamination less likely?
I've played with chopped mat before, it does like a high amount of resin to fully wet out. I don't know if it would be better for ballistics or not, I'll look into it.
@@Techthisoutmeow I mean to say use it in addition to the woven cloth. if you can get it to partial adhere to the plastic capillary action should draw the resin into the mat. I think it would make a better foundation coat vs cloth alone.
Great video, very useful. Have you considered using the fibres as a sandwich filling within the plastic? I'm going to experiment. About the GF, I understand mat is used generally for flat shapes and is cut to shape, and to build up thick areas. Cloth is mostly used for moulded 3d shapes as easily drapes because of the weave and is used for thin shells. I expect they perform similarly in the tests. Kevlar and GF on order 😀
Let me know if you have any luck with your experiments, I'm going to return to this project and see if i can stop bigger and faster rounds here real soon, I'll keep the sandwich idea in mind when I start that. thanks for the comment.
Hi do you think it is possible to laminate enough of these together into a giant sheet, that I could build greenhouse walls from a bunch of milk jugs? Thanks I haven't tried playing with hdpe yet but that is what I plan on trying. Hopefully you can provide some criticisms thank you
You know I always wanted to build my own green house out of old plastic and stuff, that would be a great idea! so HDPE (the plastic found in milk jugs) is a wonderful plastic to start working with, and you can get a lot of it easily. However I wouldn't use it for any major supporting structures as it has a tendency to undergo plastic deformation from loads (aka creep), you could add chopped fiberglass to the plastic to reduce that effect. but panels for siding would be great, it doesn't absorb water and is a fairly good insulator, use rubber washers with the screws or bolts that you use to attach it to help against the creep effect. You could use two large cookie sheets for molds pressed together, if you want to make larger sheets of the hdpe for the wall panels. Let me know if you have anymore questions!
hey thanks for subscribing! And virgin HDPE doesn't give off any fumes while heating, nor does food grade types (which is what milk jugs are made from.) So no worries as long as it doesn't catch on fire. And even if it does catch fire, the smoke isn't that toxic, however i wouldn't recommend breathing in the smoke lol.
Would taking a bottle of glue from the dollar store and spread it evenly over one sided the fabric or at least over the lines where you cut yield a cut with no fraying?
Yeah I was just reading of a place in Canada that was able to produce graphene from heating hemp fibers in an oven, I'll have to see if i can get some hemp fabric and rope. Thanks for the suggestion!
Yeah, I didn't know if i should split these projects into two videos or one. I have another video up showing the tests, if you haven't seen it yet. On my most recent project video I tried to edit it down into one video, and it seemed to still look ok so I might start doing that to all my videos.
Make something in a dragonscale configuration. Make biscuit size plates, and place them like in the dragon scale armor. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dragon_Skin Oops, just heard the dragonscale failed the Army's test.
I've thought about that before. I do have a reddit page that I sometime post things to, maybe I could do a written one on there with pictures, that way people could copy it easily. I could make it into a PDF so people could download it or some something, is that what you mean? I would be willing to put in the time to write it out if that's what people want.
@Jarret I'll try and get some going then, shouldn't be hard to do. are you a subscriber? I try and do a weekly message on my community tab, if you go to my profile page you'll see what I mean. I'll post on there when I get some PDFs finished, and where to get them at. If you turn on notifications you'll know the second I post them. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hey man, I know it’s been a few years since you’ve made the video, just curious if when you baked the plastic did it leave a bad smell in the oven or through out the house?
You create viewer listening fatigue by going on and on. Your creativity is amazing , in learning how to make these. Editing out the bs , and elaborate only when needed to teach how to make these. Ya get an A+ for creativity , but your vids could be much better without the over elaboration.
Hey man fair point. I often fear not giving enough information which leads me to repeat myself, It would help if I script these out more, rather than shoot from the hip. I've been working on this though, if you've seen my newer videos they are getting shorter, like my stab video and my new armor plate one. I also believe if I get better at editing and how I approach shooting these in general that one clean it up some. It's been a steep learning curve for sure. Thanks for the critique, it was honestly the nicest way anyone has ever told me I'm being long winded lol. This new mask build I'm doing should look better, so stay tuned!
@@Techthisoutmeow Now I feel really bad about critiquing you. In truth what you make from just milk jugs IS AMAZING ! I think you're a very bright guy , and THANKS .
Enjoyed watching your build. You do great at problem solving. Would like to pick your brain. How would you go about using the recycled plastics to build sheets of thin plastic to cover a deer blind that could have a lite wooden frame or metal frame. How would you handle the joints where the plastics meet. Can it be glue so it will not leak or would you be able to use a heat gun or some other approach. Thanks for any wisdom you can share.
Ah a fellow hunter, that's a great idea! This will require a bit of a long winded answer, so here goes. First lets talk about the plastic, if your going for HDPE (the plastic i used in this video) I would figure out how thick I wanted the sheet to be and base the other dimensions of my mold off of the oven that I have. And by mold I mean some metal sheet or board, most wood starts to burn at about 500F so it could work, might want to treat it with something to resist higher temps. HDPE is very flexible at 300F, but doesn't get completely clear til 350F, so that's what i would set the oven for. I would cover the board (or metal) sheet with wax paper and spread out a lot of the chopped plastic, and melt it til it was completely clear. Then i would check to see how it was filling out the board, ( it won't turn liquid, so no worry of it running off really) and add more pieces to help fill and gaps and thin points, you could also use a rolling pin to smooth it out over surface. Once it looked good and ready, i would pull it out and place another board of the same size (with wax paper) and use large claps and such, maybe just weights or books would work, to apply pressure on the plastic. HDPE shrinks a lot when it cools, and if you don't apply pressure it'll shrink too much, and it can ripple and have air pockets. Make sure to add a bit of pressure as it cools, just a few turns on a clap or a few more books. If you were thinking smaller scale sheets two cookie sheets would work great, find one that fits into another and use them as the mold, i would use some sort of stopper next to the mold bottom (or build in) to only allow the plastic to be pressed to that thickness, that way it isn't to thick or thin. Now how to fuse them together. HDPE doesnt absorb water at all, and most glues don't seem to hold to it well, but guerrilla glue does work, as well as some high grade epoxy resin called max bond, its the same resin i used in my hat insert build and my mask build, if you have seen those videos. make sure to scuff up the surface before trying to bond them together, and silicone calk works pretty good. But i like the heat gun idea, when this stuff is cooling it'll stick to anything, the first wooden mold i used had to be broken apart to get the plastic out, and there were chunks of wood stuck to the surface so i think you could try and weld it to the wood itself, or metal. (main reason I use Vaseline and wax paper.) Now plastics can under go creep deformation when loads are applied to them. (buckle at the joints, gets thinner in the center) so if your going to screw it to something I would use washers( maybe rubber washers) to help keep that from happening. This stuff can be cut and sanded a lot like wood, so maybe a planer could be used, if you could get your hands on one. Anyways great questions! You got my head filled with some new things to try, and i hope this helps.
Yes you have helped a great deal. Harbor Freight and others sell plastic welders and you can buy HDPE strips to use on the weld. Your idea of welding it to wood is worth thinking about. Please help me understand about the length of the cooling period. How often should I increase clamp pressure? Every 10 minutes or every 15 or what? I liked your video - it got me thinking. I think I want HDPE about 1/4 inch thick for my application.
Yeah I forgot about plastic welders lol, that could totally fuse two pieces together. now cooling depends on how fast you want your plastic honestly, if you keep it in a warm room it'll cool slower so it'll take more time, and you wouldn't have to apply more pressure for awhile (like every half hour for two hours). but if you take it out side or into a cold garage you would have to apply it about every 10 min or so, really with clamps you can tell by checking them, if they feel loose tighten up until you get solid resistance. I've greatly sped up the process a few times by using my deep freezer just to see if it would work, and with it being that cold it still only needed to be tightened every five mins. Also its worth noting you'll only need to re-tighten them about 3 times, it shrinks mostly right at the beginning and much slower after that. It can still be warm and shrank all that its going to.
So do you believe my plan is reasonable and could be pulled off? I was thinking HDPE since is plentiful and could be used. Is there a better recycled plastic to use instead of HDPE? I am thinking plastic bucket material would work best to get the thickness I want.
Oh it's totally doable, and as far as recyclable plastics HDPE is where to start. Its some tough crap, and easy to find, and it doesn't really give off any fumes that are dangerous if it happens to catch fire. ( I've never had a piece do it to me, and ive molded quite a bunch of this stuff.) Just make sure those buckets are HDPE, you can check the recycle symbol for that. If you wanted to step away from recyclable plastics i would consider some themoset plastics like epoxy , and reinforce it with fiberglass.
Yeah someone suggested I try that, I always thought that those were LDPE, but it turns out that plenty are made HDPE. If I can find enough of them I'll give it a try before the next test, molding up some new plates as we speak so stay tuned! I'm going to be cranking out a bunch of project videos in the next few weeks.
Anything with the recycling symbol 2 on it is HDPE, the lids most of the time are also HDPE. However I have seen lids with 5 on them, which is PP plastic. The semi white-transparent version of the plastic also doesn't have any dye added to it, so for consistency I only use the non dyed type. Thanks for commenting!
Yeah I wish I had my .357 magnum at the time of testing this one, would have loved to see how well it stood up to it. I could make another one and see, i might one day. and around 15-17 layers of Spectra fabric can also stop .357, I have a video of a mask I built that used Spectra rather than fiberglass and it stopped quite a few rounds.
ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html, I split the build and test footage into two different videos, I didn't want the video to go over 40 mins. the link I put in this comment is the test footage, with all the firearms i used in it. Thanks for commenting!
I see it can be used for bullets but what about other thins like knife or melee weapons protection how often can you get a bow for a knife can go through what I'm trying to say
What if you put the metal in the center of the plastic also try the fiberglass in the center then aneal it and also wrapping it with the cloth I was. In r&d in the largest firm in the world and the things we found by mistakes unbelievable.
I've been doing that a bit on the community page on my youtube channel, if you subscribe you'll get updates when I post photos of projects that I'm working on. There's been some good conversations on there. Maybe I could do a live stream or something. I will be redoing this project though here real soon, because there's been so many questions and comments about this project. If you have any suggestions I would love to here them
Oh I plan on it! have you seen any of my other builds? I've made some bullet proof glass, a bullet resistant mask, and an energy absorbing hat insert. I'm gearing up for stabproof cloth now, as well as a bandanna that resists the effects of mase. I'm glad people are enjoying my builds, I got a lot planned for the next few months so be sure to subscribe to get the notifications of when there uploaded. I also got plans for plenty of plastic related projects because it seems to be what people like best.
i was looking at buying a sheet of uhmw for using as a wear/slide plate for a log splitter and found out about hdpe and i have tons of milk jugs. Do you think this would work close to uhmw?
Yeah, I mean HDPE is some tough crap man, I use it on my table saw, and its common to use it for cutting boards. It'll never be as smooth as UHMW however, or as tough. That stuff is in a league of its own, but I would go that route, just to see if I could save a buck. You can always spray a little silicone lubricant on it and it'll be slick as ice, that is if things seem to scuff it up to quick. So yeah, I would give it a try, you won't have the same abrasion resistance as UHMW, but it should work fine.
Tech this out meow Thanks for the reply… Just learned how to see that You Replied…? Been telling friends I care about to check out your homemade armor. Super inspiring... in many ways ..more important to know how to do it yourself rather than being able or willing to throw money or resources at it or reliant on some factory made items. So .. not just as artist, craftsmen, survivalist...as we say ”The more you know, The less you kneed” make what you can with what you got. Just knowing that you could scrape this shit together in emergency if you ‘had to’ is “clutch”...not to mention in keeping with my “doctor in” or ‘doctrine’ of self-sufficiency and creativity being the most important survival tool
Hi doug, here's a link to my test footage, ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html I find it funny that the build has way more views than the test footage. you could also look on my youtube page, the video is called, 'Turn milk jugs into body armor.' hopefully that helps.
That I'm not to sure yet. I'm redoing this plate build as we speak, however it's proving a bit difficult to go out to the range right now. Hopefully in the next few days that will change, So check back on this chanel soon!
Okay if you buy any thing using your credit card, debt card ! Or just old fashioned check. There is record of that transaction going back at least from 1996 on. To all the folks who keep saying buy a commercial set of plates and a carrier Guess what if they want they can check all you purchases. Now if you have to do things for your self.It is possible.
I will be using some non-Newtonian fluid in future projects, should be a good time. Your idea is to place it inside of the plate itself via drilled holes? I could look into that.
You might want to do a crossover with the RUclips channel TAOFLEDERMAUS where 2 police officers in their spare time use a cronograph to measure the speed and do capture on media the track & pattern of fragmentation. They regularly use old vests, ballistic gel torsos as well as fruits, jugs of water or milk. It might help both of you!
I've contacted him in the past for a crossover, however he said that he was kinda booked up with submissions. He was really polite about it and everything, maybe I'll reach out to him again and see what he says.
Ah. During the Vietnam War, 2 types of protective vests were issued one was filled with ceramic pellets think a bean bag chair. You were told to shake the vest to redistribute the pellets. The other was hard nylon plates which were ridged. There are stories of the nylon plates stopping 9 MM ball ammo. Any thing is better than nothing. Plus Sept 2020 no telling what may come to pass.
HDPE is never going to achieve the strength of HMW PE. The HMW polymer chains are lined up in one direction and interlock in depth. Adding other fibers to the material is not going to increase the HDPE's ballistic strength by any amount. In a case of, "when not if," get a real ballistic plate. Getting shot hurts like a bitch.
I totally agree on the "get a real ballistic plate" thing. I was more interested in the toughness of HDPE, have you seen the test footage? The idea of adding fibers to the plastic itself was more from impact tests I previously had conducted, and like you pointed out, it didn't work. However, adding fabric around the plate really helped, ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html here, watch this. I'm not saying run out and grab fiberglass, cheap resin, and some milk jugs and everything will be fine. I'm really surprised at the lack of back face deformation as well as the amount of rounds these little plates could handle without falling apart.
Lol the shooting was in a separate video, however I've recently tried this again, and was able to stop more impressive rounds! And that video has both the shooting and build together rather than separate, ill post the link hold up
Fiberglass was just the base, like only 5 layers for molding the shape. The rest (30 layers) was UHMWPE fabric and high impact resin. It held up pretty good.
there is 200 liters barrels that we cuy upp in too sheets of 6. and melted in the owen. a .44 magnum went thrue it. this shit is not bulletproof. yust siging
200 liters barrels? and I never said it was bullet proof, I was more surprised that HDPE could be used to stop 380, 9mm, and .38 special. It stopped quite a few rounds of all of them. Did you rap it in fabric like Nylon or Spectra? Or hell even fiberglass, that seemed to do the trick with this stuff. And was it starting to show signs of stopping, like striping off the jacket or breaking up the bullet in any way?
You sound like my mom lol. Yeah I just ripped that old trashy oven out and replaced it with a nice new black one, if you watch my bulletproof glass video you can see the nice one installed lol.
I'm not one to judge, but if you are going to make a video of yourself in front of your oven.....CLEAN UP THE OVEN. That oven looks like it has NEVER been cleaned. Other than that, I appreciate your videos. Clean it up.
Ive come a long way in the three years since uploading this project video, from making a bullet resistant mask that could stop .357 magnum rounds with less than lethal backface deformation to a fully functional plague doctor mask respirator. I'm currently building a hybrid composite plate out of spectra ballistic fabric and high density pourable urethane resin. Maybe check out other builds I've done before casting such judgment.
I've redone this project and managed to stop rifle rounds and shotguns! check it out here: ruclips.net/video/u-FBHZ2gaXU/видео.html
Hay man ..how much I have a vest need a plate as these I don't wanna go thru all this shytt zero tools disabled can unsell me one? Enuff for rear n chest?
curious with an idea to try. ive done some construction work and the times i would break concrete with a jackhammer, a huge nightmare was trying to break it down with wire mesh inside.. maybe try including a wire mesh or something similar in your milk
jug plates? not so much to prevent breaking but reduce the stretching as well, which of course would give more penetration resistance.
If your going to laminate HDPE and Kevlar you need to incorporate the fabric in multiple layers in the plastic. Putting one layer on the other will do very little. You would probably need to get your plastic up to a higher temperature to make it flow through the fabric. The idea would be to have several layers in essentialy molten plastic to create a cohesive solid piece. Good Luck!!!
For people without sheers putting some tape over then lines your cutting will keep it from fraying especially with fiber glass
Have you considered making or sourcing thin sheets of HDPE and then thermally laminating those sheets with the fiberglass?
I had good results with 1 layer of polycarbonate sheet (glass works better but is destroyed after one shot), 4 layers of Kevlar fabric (alternating direction), 1/2 inch HDPE block (same process you use) all wrapped in a sheet of fiberglass with resin. The fiberglass and poly sheet tended to deform the projectiles and the Kevlar slowed them enough that the HDPE could catch them. I would love to see that setup with ballistic nylon instead of fiberglass wrap. I used a hydraulic press to clear out voids and air pockets. Great videos!
Great video, two part video was the right way to do it. I always love to see how people build anything, everyone problem solves their own solutions so its interesting to watch what methods you use. Cant wait to see your ballistic mask video great idea. A spartan type or riot type ballistic shield would be cool as well. Great work brother.
thanks i figured two part video would allow me to include more imformation. and by Spartan you mean a round shield or more like a tower sheild?
The interesting thing is that the plastic behaves a lot like steel, and can teach us. Neither has any surface tension. Fiber layers can add this quality to HDPE and steel. Helicopter armor had a steel mesh matrix inside aluminum plate.
Tip for cutting composite fibers without fraying; lay some tape along the line youll cut and itll all stay in place
I wish I would have seen this before my parents passed. My step father's was a body guy. He worked with fiber glass. And had a business. Did dragster bodies, funny cat bodies all cars . He had chip brushes acid brushes ever size rollers.. every wrap you can roll the resin into the fiberglass and get out all air bubbles. And he would use plastic spackling knives. When you roll it it pushes the resin into better then you can take the resin that squeeze out. You can scrap it back into the top and roll it back in.. it's a learning process.. he made molds out of fiber glass . With the same clay you use. And styrofoam. He can cut it and sand the shapes. It would be your positive shapes. With the styrofoam you can deal it before you put the resin and fiberglass to it. He would trim the fiberglass with a numeric buzz saw with like jig saw blades. You can get your supplies/ tools and blades , rollers and such. You can also take fiberglass courses at a local college. My step father never wore a resperator. And he died from brain cancer. He had it in his synus and brain behind his right eye.. so Ware you resperator and gloves.. even like dish gloves. And he used acatones for clean up. I also have a plastic torch that bonds plastics together. I would love to get you to make me two 10"×12" shooter cut multi curve plastic a inch and a half thick. I would love to try using the bulistic nylon. My wife will never let me use her oven to melt the plastics. I can trade you some of my step father's fiberglass tool. Like I have two buzz saws. And I'll film what I have and can send it to you. I'll wait for your reply if you are interested. I can also pay you to make the plastic with those dimensions. You can make them a quarter of an inch bigger. I can sand it to size my self.. it's up to you..
Dude, how neutered you sound and lacking of drive. Get a toaster oven and get melting.
Like, you can't think of any other way to heat something besides an oven so you just give up and bug someone else about doing it for you?
Great video, really inspires me to try to create body armor.
That’s Tyler Durdens kitchen!
My buddy used to work in a dairy. He got ahold of a bunch of the plastic pellets used for making milk bottles. We melted it an pressed the plastic into a mold. Just the plain plastic worked great for stopping upto 40 cal.
Dang thats awesome! any idea how think it was?
Dude you can probably get a whole bunch of them out of the dumpsters at a public school do it after hours you know how touchy people are about unauthorized people coming on school campus blah blah blah I used to go to this local high school after hours and go to the back loading dock and they had a hot water faucet and regular cold water and out wash my ass cuz I was homeless
I have not tried the following yet.
However, I just purchased the largest countertop oven I could find here locally with these things in mind. So, what I keep circling back to is mixing The HDPE with chopped up fiberglass. I'm certain this would perform well above HDPE plastic alone.
...and??
@@mattzee6287 So!....
I think I'll try making this with my 27 tonne log splitter with a flat plate attachment. Machime press from Harbor freight might give best results but I don't have one. Thanks for the knoledge brother!
Seems you could clamp them and put in oven, which at ur temp won't burn wood.
Try outer layer of 1/8" steel to try to flatten projectile to keep its penetration more shallow?
Love to see an experimenter
I'm currently working on this project again, and I will for sure be adding some metal to some of the plates to see what I can stop, along with other plate ideas that I've come up with. Some of the plates that I will be testing came from my viewers, so check back soon on this channel! If you like experimentation you should check out my stab resistant armor build, that one took alot of try's to get right.
*_Good video, oven in gross though_*
i think that is an old oven he has in his garage for projects (i.e. this and ceracoat)
That’s definitely a kitchen he has that stove in.
@@clintspies5260 It's a kitchen, but not the regular house kitchen it would seem.
Any thoughts on spraying these down with truck bed liner. Maybe the DuPont with Kevlar fibers?
I've use that brand before! that was one of my very first tests years ago, that stuff is very strong. If you look on my table in some of my newer videos you'll see a can of it sitting in the back corner lol. It'll be used in future projects.
@@Techthisoutmeow So does that means you recommend adding a top layer of truck bed liner as a final step?
What brand oven cleaner do you use? Shits LEGIT...
Haha, yeah that old gross thing got ripped out and sent to the dump about a month ago, if you watch my bulletproof glass video you'll see my shiny new black one.
Tech this out meow that's what SHE SAID...
If you us a PYREX baking dish the hdpe will release itself when it cools down, no paper needed. The pyrex comes in many sizes and shapes, just put your hdpe in the dish and as it melts down add more hdpe as needed for the desired thickness. No kneading necessary unless you're trying the make some design.
Hey thanks for the information! I didn't know this, pyrex is glassware right? I wonder how well it works with other plastics, I imagine it should.
I'm not sure how other plastics will do in pyrex because I've never tried it, another good dish to melt hdpe in is the type of stoneware that is glazed.
I just figured because of the non porous property of glass that other plastics might not stick to it. I've used plaster covered in acrylic before, that worked well so I could see glazed stoneware working well. I wonder if glass would work with epoxy, that could be a cool experiment. Thanks for the information, I'll look into trying this out on some of my future projects.
Instead of petroleum jelly, have you tried paste wax like for furniture or cars as a release agent?
I've used high temp silicone mold release before and that by far is the best, however brazilian carnauba wax (what most car waxes are made of) works for epoxy forming. I use car wax often for themoset resins, but have never tried it these higher temp. plastics, it would be interesting to see how well it would hold up!
Im just now watching your videos from the first one , GREAT !! Im excited about making my own ,
Seems like you want a surface that will cause the bullet to deform before it starts penetrating.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it, you should check out my new video on the topic, I was able to stop rifle rounds using this method with a little help from some metals and ceramics! ruclips.net/video/u-FBHZ2gaXU/видео.html
What about #1 plastic from soda bottles? Isn't it stronger, to contain the carbonated pressure? Is it too brittle? Did you try it? :)
I've never tried PET, which is the #1 on recyclable plastics, but I have tried a few others like polycarbonate and acrylic to name a few, and polycarbonate is probably the best overall. You can see it in some of my bulletproof glass videos, and when I compare store bought ceramics for ballistic protection.
Have you tried to shape the plates in a swimmer's cut shape? Also, how would you create a bend so it would fit a chest better?
Looks good in theroy and construction but what about the ballistic tests?
Would you try adding a square of chopped glass fibre mat to the top and bottom of the mould. I am expecting some of it to embed in the HDPE but the majority to be left dry. When you wet the mat with resin, will it make delamination less likely?
I've played with chopped mat before, it does like a high amount of resin to fully wet out. I don't know if it would be better for ballistics or not, I'll look into it.
@@Techthisoutmeow I mean to say use it in addition to the woven cloth. if you can get it to partial adhere to the plastic capillary action should draw the resin into the mat. I think it would make a better foundation coat vs cloth alone.
Great video, very useful. Have you considered using the fibres as a sandwich filling within the plastic? I'm going to experiment.
About the GF, I understand mat is used generally for flat shapes and is cut to shape, and to build up thick areas. Cloth is mostly used for moulded 3d shapes as easily drapes because of the weave and is used for thin shells. I expect they perform similarly in the tests. Kevlar and GF on order 😀
Let me know if you have any luck with your experiments, I'm going to return to this project and see if i can stop bigger and faster rounds here real soon, I'll keep the sandwich idea in mind when I start that. thanks for the comment.
Hi do you think it is possible to laminate enough of these together into a giant sheet, that I could build greenhouse walls from a bunch of milk jugs? Thanks I haven't tried playing with hdpe yet but that is what I plan on trying. Hopefully you can provide some criticisms thank you
You know I always wanted to build my own green house out of old plastic and stuff, that would be a great idea! so HDPE (the plastic found in milk jugs) is a wonderful plastic to start working with, and you can get a lot of it easily. However I wouldn't use it for any major supporting structures as it has a tendency to undergo plastic deformation from loads (aka creep), you could add chopped fiberglass to the plastic to reduce that effect. but panels for siding would be great, it doesn't absorb water and is a fairly good insulator, use rubber washers with the screws or bolts that you use to attach it to help against the creep effect. You could use two large cookie sheets for molds pressed together, if you want to make larger sheets of the hdpe for the wall panels. Let me know if you have anymore questions!
Any caution or concern needed for any fumes generated while heating it...?
BTW...
I’m your 100th Subscriber...!!!
Wooo-hooo...!
hey thanks for subscribing! And virgin HDPE doesn't give off any fumes while heating, nor does food grade types (which is what milk jugs are made from.) So no worries as long as it doesn't catch on fire. And even if it does catch fire, the smoke isn't that toxic, however i wouldn't recommend breathing in the smoke lol.
Would taking a bottle of glue from the dollar store and spread it evenly over one sided the fabric or at least over the lines where you cut yield a cut with no fraying?
Throw some hemp fibers in that bad boy. Would be interesting to see if it adds structure integrity
Yeah I was just reading of a place in Canada that was able to produce graphene from heating hemp fibers in an oven, I'll have to see if i can get some hemp fabric and rope. Thanks for the suggestion!
Dammm if there's nothing that a Hamp can't do damn smart people on RUclips and I'm always impressed
I'd love to see the tests of the plates with the actual making of it.
Yeah, I didn't know if i should split these projects into two videos or one. I have another video up showing the tests, if you haven't seen it yet. On my most recent project video I tried to edit it down into one video, and it seemed to still look ok so I might start doing that to all my videos.
What price did you get the Adtech nanotube epoxy resin for? Can you post a link?
Make it more simplier videos bro.beteer its
Make something in a dragonscale configuration. Make biscuit size plates, and place them like in the dragon scale armor. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dragon_Skin
Oops, just heard the dragonscale failed the Army's test.
put a link during the whole video, linking to the shooting
If it's made of plastic, does that make it a *pallistic* plate?
... I'll see myself out.
Try sandwiching a ceramic tile like the type used in kitchen counter tops
Can you make a tutorial in text format?
I've thought about that before. I do have a reddit page that I sometime post things to, maybe I could do a written one on there with pictures, that way people could copy it easily. I could make it into a PDF so people could download it or some something, is that what you mean? I would be willing to put in the time to write it out if that's what people want.
@@Techthisoutmeow yes,that's what i mean. i appreciate you taking it into consideration.
@Jarret I'll try and get some going then, shouldn't be hard to do. are you a subscriber? I try and do a weekly message on my community tab, if you go to my profile page you'll see what I mean. I'll post on there when I get some PDFs finished, and where to get them at. If you turn on notifications you'll know the second I post them. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@Techthisoutmeow will do. and yes i am a subscriber.
Hey man, I know it’s been a few years since you’ve made the video, just curious if when you baked the plastic did it leave a bad smell in the oven or through out the house?
So that wrapping put 4 layers of 6oz fiberglass cloth on each side of the plastic plate if I counted correctly.
Where did you get the bulistic nylon and how much Didi it cost? I want to get it make 10"×12" plates. But multi curve
You create viewer listening fatigue by going on and on. Your creativity is amazing , in learning how to make these. Editing out the bs , and elaborate only when needed to teach how to make these. Ya get an A+ for creativity , but your vids could be much better without the over elaboration.
Hey man fair point. I often fear not giving enough information which leads me to repeat myself, It would help if I script these out more, rather than shoot from the hip. I've been working on this though, if you've seen my newer videos they are getting shorter, like my stab video and my new armor plate one. I also believe if I get better at editing and how I approach shooting these in general that one clean it up some. It's been a steep learning curve for sure. Thanks for the critique, it was honestly the nicest way anyone has ever told me I'm being long winded lol. This new mask build I'm doing should look better, so stay tuned!
@@Techthisoutmeow Now I feel really bad about critiquing you. In truth what you make from just milk jugs IS AMAZING ! I think you're a very bright guy , and THANKS .
Enjoyed watching your build. You do great at problem solving. Would like to pick your brain. How would you go about using the recycled plastics to build sheets of thin plastic to cover a deer blind that could have a lite wooden frame or metal frame. How would you handle the joints where the plastics meet. Can it be glue so it will not leak or would you be able to use a heat gun or some other approach. Thanks for any wisdom you can share.
Ah a fellow hunter, that's a great idea! This will require a bit of a long winded answer, so here goes. First lets talk about the plastic, if your going for HDPE (the plastic i used in this video) I would figure out how thick I wanted the sheet to be and base the other dimensions of my mold off of the oven that I have. And by mold I mean some metal sheet or board, most wood starts to burn at about 500F so it could work, might want to treat it with something to resist higher temps. HDPE is very flexible at 300F, but doesn't get completely clear til 350F, so that's what i would set the oven for. I would cover the board (or metal) sheet with wax paper and spread out a lot of the chopped plastic, and melt it til it was completely clear. Then i would check to see how it was filling out the board, ( it won't turn liquid, so no worry of it running off really) and add more pieces to help fill and gaps and thin points, you could also use a rolling pin to smooth it out over surface. Once it looked good and ready, i would pull it out and place another board of the same size (with wax paper) and use large claps and such, maybe just weights or books would work, to apply pressure on the plastic. HDPE shrinks a lot when it cools, and if you don't apply pressure it'll shrink too much, and it can ripple and have air pockets. Make sure to add a bit of pressure as it cools, just a few turns on a clap or a few more books. If you were thinking smaller scale sheets two cookie sheets would work great, find one that fits into another and use them as the mold, i would use some sort of stopper next to the mold bottom (or build in) to only allow the plastic to be pressed to that thickness, that way it isn't to thick or thin. Now how to fuse them together. HDPE doesnt absorb water at all, and most glues don't seem to hold to it well, but guerrilla glue does work, as well as some high grade epoxy resin called max bond, its the same resin i used in my hat insert build and my mask build, if you have seen those videos. make sure to scuff up the surface before trying to bond them together, and silicone calk works pretty good. But i like the heat gun idea, when this stuff is cooling it'll stick to anything, the first wooden mold i used had to be broken apart to get the plastic out, and there were chunks of wood stuck to the surface so i think you could try and weld it to the wood itself, or metal. (main reason I use Vaseline and wax paper.) Now plastics can under go creep deformation when loads are applied to them. (buckle at the joints, gets thinner in the center) so if your going to screw it to something I would use washers( maybe rubber washers) to help keep that from happening. This stuff can be cut and sanded a lot like wood, so maybe a planer could be used, if you could get your hands on one. Anyways great questions! You got my head filled with some new things to try, and i hope this helps.
Yes you have helped a great deal. Harbor Freight and others sell plastic welders and you can buy HDPE strips to use on the weld. Your idea of welding it to wood is worth thinking about. Please help me understand about the length of the cooling period. How often should I increase clamp pressure? Every 10 minutes or every 15 or what? I liked your video - it got me thinking. I think I want HDPE about 1/4 inch thick for my application.
Yeah I forgot about plastic welders lol, that could totally fuse two pieces together. now cooling depends on how fast you want your plastic honestly, if you keep it in a warm room it'll cool slower so it'll take more time, and you wouldn't have to apply more pressure for awhile (like every half hour for two hours). but if you take it out side or into a cold garage you would have to apply it about every 10 min or so, really with clamps you can tell by checking them, if they feel loose tighten up until you get solid resistance. I've greatly sped up the process a few times by using my deep freezer just to see if it would work, and with it being that cold it still only needed to be tightened every five mins. Also its worth noting you'll only need to re-tighten them about 3 times, it shrinks mostly right at the beginning and much slower after that. It can still be warm and shrank all that its going to.
So do you believe my plan is reasonable and could be pulled off? I was thinking HDPE since is plentiful and could be used. Is there a better recycled plastic to use instead of HDPE? I am thinking plastic bucket material would work best to get the thickness I want.
Oh it's totally doable, and as far as recyclable plastics HDPE is where to start. Its some tough crap, and easy to find, and it doesn't really give off any fumes that are dangerous if it happens to catch fire. ( I've never had a piece do it to me, and ive molded quite a bunch of this stuff.) Just make sure those buckets are HDPE, you can check the recycle symbol for that. If you wanted to step away from recyclable plastics i would consider some themoset plastics like epoxy , and reinforce it with fiberglass.
Just found this and thought I would add some plastic grocery bags are HDPE as well.
Yeah someone suggested I try that, I always thought that those were LDPE, but it turns out that plenty are made HDPE. If I can find enough of them I'll give it a try before the next test, molding up some new plates as we speak so stay tuned! I'm going to be cranking out a bunch of project videos in the next few weeks.
@@Techthisoutmeow I don't know if you have a meijer near you but they use hdpe.
I thought the plastic to use was from the bottle tops and not the bottles themselves
Anything with the recycling symbol 2 on it is HDPE, the lids most of the time are also HDPE. However I have seen lids with 5 on them, which is PP plastic. The semi white-transparent version of the plastic also doesn't have any dye added to it, so for consistency I only use the non dyed type. Thanks for commenting!
32 layers of only fiberglass can stopp a .357 magnum.
Yeah I wish I had my .357 magnum at the time of testing this one, would have loved to see how well it stood up to it. I could make another one and see, i might one day. and around 15-17 layers of Spectra fabric can also stop .357, I have a video of a mask I built that used Spectra rather than fiberglass and it stopped quite a few rounds.
No shoot part? What caliber did you use?
ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html, I split the build and test footage into two different videos, I didn't want the video to go over 40 mins. the link I put in this comment is the test footage, with all the firearms i used in it. Thanks for commenting!
I see it can be used for bullets but what about other thins like knife or melee weapons protection how often can you get a bow for a knife can go through what I'm trying to say
Ever thought about devising Pauldrons?
You better believe it! My goal will be to build a full suit of armor one of these days, and i like overlapping plates and classical armor designs.
Look into Project Grizzly if you have not already.
What if you put the metal in the center of the plastic also try the fiberglass in the center then aneal it and also wrapping it with the cloth I was. In r&d in the largest firm in the world and the things we found by mistakes unbelievable.
You should do a Q/A my guy
I've been doing that a bit on the community page on my youtube channel, if you subscribe you'll get updates when I post photos of projects that I'm working on. There's been some good conversations on there. Maybe I could do a live stream or something. I will be redoing this project though here real soon, because there's been so many questions and comments about this project. If you have any suggestions I would love to here them
+Tech This Out Meow I hope you keep the videos coming.
Oh I plan on it! have you seen any of my other builds? I've made some bullet proof glass, a bullet resistant mask, and an energy absorbing hat insert. I'm gearing up for stabproof cloth now, as well as a bandanna that resists the effects of mase. I'm glad people are enjoying my builds, I got a lot planned for the next few months so be sure to subscribe to get the notifications of when there uploaded. I also got plans for plenty of plastic related projects because it seems to be what people like best.
When u laminate to plastic 80 grit and a plastic adhesion promoter
You should get an investor to help you start an armor business
i was looking at buying a sheet of uhmw for using as a wear/slide plate for a log splitter and found out about hdpe and i have tons of milk jugs. Do you think this would work close to uhmw?
Yeah, I mean HDPE is some tough crap man, I use it on my table saw, and its common to use it for cutting boards. It'll never be as smooth as UHMW however, or as tough. That stuff is in a league of its own, but I would go that route, just to see if I could save a buck. You can always spray a little silicone lubricant on it and it'll be slick as ice, that is if things seem to scuff it up to quick. So yeah, I would give it a try, you won't have the same abrasion resistance as UHMW, but it should work fine.
Tech this out meow thanks man I’ll give it a shot
Good luck, and if you post a video of it send me a link.
Love the video. I am doing a bunch of homemade tactical gear so it was inspirational. I’ll send you a link if I do a RUclips post. Keep it up!!
Thanks, I would love to see your work. I got quite a few more ideas for future builds, so the next few months should be a fun time.
Tech this out meow Thanks for the reply… Just learned how to see that You Replied…?
Been telling friends I care about to check out your homemade armor. Super inspiring... in many ways ..more important to know how to do it yourself rather than being able or willing to throw money or resources at it or reliant on some factory made items. So .. not just as artist, craftsmen, survivalist...as we say ”The more you know, The less you kneed” make what you can with what you got. Just knowing that you could scrape this shit together in emergency if you ‘had to’ is “clutch”...not to mention in keeping with my “doctor in” or ‘doctrine’ of self-sufficiency and creativity being the most important survival tool
why would you need a see-through face mask in armor suit?
try laminated sand bag plates, or graphene nano-diamond
hi ,I couldn't find the ballistic test...what calibre did you use?...God bless...doug
Hi doug, here's a link to my test footage, ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html I find it funny that the build has way more views than the test footage. you could also look on my youtube page, the video is called, 'Turn milk jugs into body armor.' hopefully that helps.
i did more research on this and they sell UHMWPE as a fabric i think thats what they use
How thick to stop a .223?
That I'm not to sure yet. I'm redoing this plate build as we speak, however it's proving a bit difficult to go out to the range right now. Hopefully in the next few days that will change, So check back on this chanel soon!
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
I think if you placed them in vacuum bags it would be better.
Classic, atari hat! Lol
Interesting. Fascinating.
Okay if you buy any thing using your credit card, debt card ! Or just old fashioned check. There is record of that transaction going back at least from 1996 on.
To all the folks who keep saying buy a commercial set of plates and a carrier Guess what if they want they can check all you purchases. Now if you have to do things for your self.It is possible.
milk jugs are either PP or LDPE not HDPE and definitely not UHMWPE... the materials used makes a BIG f'ng difference
You know those park benches or bus benches made out of recycled plastic. Ya you know what im saying uh huh.
chopping boards made for commercial kitchens. Tremendously tough stuff relative to weight.
Try the Harbor freight bed liner coating.
I will, I've used bed liners on other projects, thanks for the suggestion!
Nice Atari hat.
Bigger plates?
You got it! im also using better fiberglass this time around and playing with the thickness of the plates themselves.
Nice vid
Mold hollow cavities fill with non neutonian fluid
I will be using some non-Newtonian fluid in future projects, should be a good time. Your idea is to place it inside of the plate itself via drilled holes? I could look into that.
I sound simple but the same way a quilt holds its filling in place. Overlapping layers and a plate coated to help absorb frag
Very cool
You might want to do a crossover with the RUclips channel TAOFLEDERMAUS where 2 police officers in their spare time use a cronograph to measure the speed and do capture on media the track & pattern of fragmentation. They regularly use old vests, ballistic gel torsos as well as fruits, jugs of water or milk. It might help both of you!
I've contacted him in the past for a crossover, however he said that he was kinda booked up with submissions. He was really polite about it and everything, maybe I'll reach out to him again and see what he says.
Nice content! Subbed
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Plate molds
Oh I plan on it! have you seen the newest test footage I've done on HDPE? Here, have a look: ruclips.net/video/u-FBHZ2gaXU/видео.html
@@Techthisoutmeow yes
Get some pinking shears
Would you trust your life to a DIY?
Ah. During the Vietnam War, 2 types of protective vests were issued one was filled with ceramic pellets think a bean bag chair. You were told to shake the vest to redistribute the pellets. The other was hard nylon plates which were ridged. There are stories of the nylon plates stopping 9 MM ball ammo.
Any thing is better than nothing. Plus Sept 2020 no telling what may come to pass.
Dude get ahold of #DemolitionRanch
Try seat belts.
I was also thinking those crate straps or box ones (same) the plastic ones
awesome video))
Thank you.
HDPE is never going to achieve the strength of HMW PE. The HMW polymer chains are lined up in one direction and interlock in depth. Adding other fibers to the material is not going to increase the HDPE's ballistic strength by any amount. In a case of, "when not if," get a real ballistic plate. Getting shot hurts like a bitch.
I totally agree on the "get a real ballistic plate" thing. I was more interested in the toughness of HDPE, have you seen the test footage? The idea of adding fibers to the plastic itself was more from impact tests I previously had conducted, and like you pointed out, it didn't work. However, adding fabric around the plate really helped, ruclips.net/video/V_LKU6pI7zc/видео.html here, watch this. I'm not saying run out and grab fiberglass, cheap resin, and some milk jugs and everything will be fine. I'm really surprised at the lack of back face deformation as well as the amount of rounds these little plates could handle without falling apart.
Not faulting your integrity. Intellectual curiosity is to be applauded especially when your method is sound.
Gotta show the shooting my dude if you want more views.
Lol the shooting was in a separate video, however I've recently tried this again, and was able to stop more impressive rounds! And that video has both the shooting and build together rather than separate, ill post the link hold up
ruclips.net/video/u-FBHZ2gaXU/видео.html this is the new and improved version!
Fiberglass for a ballistic mask is a bad idea
Fiberglass was just the base, like only 5 layers for molding the shape. The rest (30 layers) was UHMWPE fabric and high impact resin. It held up pretty good.
If you haven't seen the build and testing footage on that yet it's on my channel.
there is 200 liters barrels that we cuy upp in too sheets of 6. and melted in the owen. a .44 magnum went thrue it. this shit is not bulletproof. yust siging
200 liters barrels? and I never said it was bullet proof, I was more surprised that HDPE could be used to stop 380, 9mm, and .38 special. It stopped quite a few rounds of all of them. Did you rap it in fabric like Nylon or Spectra? Or hell even fiberglass, that seemed to do the trick with this stuff. And was it starting to show signs of stopping, like striping off the jacket or breaking up the bullet in any way?
Not surprised it didnt work. Judging by the way you write, I wouldn't trust anything you produce to stop a bullet.
Most class 3 plates only stop pistol calibers
Whitty plates
Nice video, but I hope that stove is in a shop somewhere and not where you live. Even so, eeeeewwwhhh
You sound like my mom lol. Yeah I just ripped that old trashy oven out and replaced it with a nice new black one, if you watch my bulletproof glass video you can see the nice one installed lol.
Dude... Clean your stove!
lol I think you mean stove, and yeah that one got ripped out and thrown away, it was the stove that was here when I moved in.
To much meth.lol
I'm not one to judge, but if you are going to make a video of yourself in front of your oven.....CLEAN UP THE OVEN. That oven looks like it has NEVER been cleaned. Other than that, I appreciate your videos.
Clean it up.
#2ASTRONG #CZLIFE #SHALLNOTBEINFRINGED
too much chit chat............
Bro get some degreaser.
Your understanding of fiberglass and resins needs work...
Ive come a long way in the three years since uploading this project video, from making a bullet resistant mask that could stop .357 magnum rounds with less than lethal backface deformation to a fully functional plague doctor mask respirator. I'm currently building a hybrid composite plate out of spectra ballistic fabric and high density pourable urethane resin. Maybe check out other builds I've done before casting such judgment.