2013 Nissan Sentra Motor Vibration
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Automatic, CVT, 6 cylinder. When shifting from Park to drive can feel the car slightly vibrate. While in drive with the break applied, the car vibrations increase and RPM decreases.
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All, as somebody already pointed out this is a 4 cylinder. Sorry for the mistake. Also I do have this repaired now. I took it to a mechanic and they re-programmed the ECM. The - terminal of the battery got loose and it messed caused the ECM settings to be changed. The foreign car mechanic I took it to was able to re-program the ECM and it my car is running smoothly! Thanks for the ideas RUclips community!!
Also, the terminals to the battery are nice and tight now. I check them and tighten them as needed to prevent this fr happening again
Alguna respuesta en español? 🤣 tengo el mismo problema
I'm short right now but how much does if affect your cars performance and how long can I run it like this I stumbled upon your video thought the vibrations was normal lol
Hi, so if the battery was unplugged it should've reset to the base ECM settings. What happened and what did they correct?
What it a Nissan dealer that did the fix?
My 05 nissan sentra 1.8l 4 cylinder has 400k miles on original motor amd trans and just had to replace my motor mountd for this same problem. You do no hear it near as bad in nuetral or park but sitting at stop lights and stuff youll feel it really bad. Just reolace motor mounts and youll be good to go
I received some additional advice that included checking the spark plugs. All to say, there was some wear on the plugs and signs of potential overheating at the base of the ceramics on all plugs. They were changed with new and costly Champion Iridium plugs that enabled the car to drive off with the same knocking vibration, as seen in the video. The replacement list to date: the 4 mounts, cleaned and replaced MAF, cleaned intake Throttle Body, and a new PCV value. I also checked the level of the transmission fluid, and replaced a missing rubber grommet at the base of the Air Filter canister - could have sworn that was the culprit. Someone, please post what worked for them. Enjoy the day!
I wish I had something to report. I have not solved this one and it might be heading to the dealership to figure out soon. I exhausted the suggestions in this thread and remain baffled. Each suggestion was a worthy source and provided optimism up until falling short. It idles smoothly in park/neutral and then mimics the video and sound effect in gear. I might pick up a new coil and sequence it down the row swapping it in and out for an older one. There are no DTCs, the transmission (CVT) has been rebuilt (still waiting for the payout for Quebec, Canada residents), and slightly concerned that there may be an internal issue causing the vibration. I could swear the noise is coming from the air filter box tapping the firewall, but every attempt to isolate the noise holding things had no effect. Next step, check the ignition coils and get under it to see if it could be the exhaust pipe. I wish I knew if the vibration is normal or in itself is causing the noise. I do not mind doing the work, just ticked at fixing the wrong things. Thanks for enquiring!
It is another day, I can now rule out the PCV value and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. Mystery continues - cracked flex plate, exhaust noise? Might have to take this one into the dealership to troubleshoot. I really wish the answer would have been identified here.
Yet another day but there is hope. I found another video titled: NISSAN ENGINE SHAKES WHEN A/C TURNS ON SIMPLE FIX where they mention the vibration at the 1:05 minute mark. They cleaned the MAF and the Throttle Body and that solved the problem. I will try that this evening and let you know tomorrow. I had already ruled out the MAF to some degree with a used replacement, so TB is on the menu for tonight.
Clean the throttle, Maf and check your sparkplugs as well as coils. I own a 2015 sentra for 5 years and maintenance its the key
It's your motor mounts !! I had the same thing with my 2014 Nissan Sentra
Which motor mount did you replace
I have 2013 sentra with this same issue the idle is OK not perfect the roughsshake vibration is when I accelerate and I replaced all mounts cleaned throttle body. Inspected every bushing. Sounds like it comes from driver side front from cvt but that shift fine as long as y change trans fluid every 30k in these junk jatco cvts they last longer. I'm sure uncan reset ecm by having battery unhooked for couple hours I'll have to look into this more
Mine the entire car shakes it won’t go past 20 miles an hour sand shakes worse in park
It was not the engine/trani mounts and now i have ruled out low transmission fluid. I ordered the 23 mm socket for the PCV value, so that will be next before moving on to the MAF. If anyone has ruled out any of the next steps, feedback would be appreciated.
I have had this issue for over a year now with no avail. I have done everything and I'm very educated snd I have worked on cars whole life and I'm lost the last thing I have not checked is tensioner and harmonic balancer
Time for new engine and transmission mount
Motor mounts. Thats easy.
ISSUE IDENTIFED!
Hello, it is time for me to further embarrassed! The reality is that the engine probably vibrates this much normally, so it was a complete red herring (unintentionally). It took getting under the vehicle while it was on ramps and in gear -- one way to see if you trust your Ex behind the wheel. All to say, her vehicle made this exact same vibration in gear and the accompanying tapping noise. The cause of this issue is that the darn tin heatshield came loose around the catalytic converter. For everyone else, simple to verify with a stick and the car jacked up a bit. Go in from the front and this shield is sitting under the catalytic and tapping the subframe. Long path to the most likely of causes and I got hung up on the vibration - they are rubber motor and transmission mounts for a reason.
I am looking for the solution as well. I have replaced the 4 mounts (2 engine and 2 transmission) and that did not correct the situation. I am moving on to the PCV value next and will post on the outcome. I just have to find out what I have done with my 23 mm socket.
What happened with you Steve can you share, please
Thisis 4 cylinder, not 6, anyway, i have exactly the sam issue on my Altima 2003 and have no idea why? Otherwise the car drives smooth and strong!
The motor mounts are bad. Looks like are the mounts. I have the same problem with my sentra 2016. I have to fix them all. I took the car to my mechanic and will cost 2400 dls. But I call nissan dealer and I will pay 1377 dls original parts . I know it is a lot of money but if you don't fix it will be cost you more late
Job is easy, took me 2.5 hours total start to finish.
Issue persists, the cleaning of the Throttle Body did not fix the problem. I removed the TB to clean it well. The darn TB Cleaner evaporates too quickly to be effective with a tooth brush. I managed, but there must be a better cleaning product although titled correctly. After reinstalling, the engine idled higher at 1300-1500 and I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to reset the computer. I did notice that one of the two rubber grommets for the air filter box was missing and thought that was the problem, it should have been that simple, but sadly NO. I think the car is heading to the dealership for evaluation - I am tired of wasting money and effort. Someone please discover and post the solution.
My 2017 sentra motor mounts are bad I think I opened the hood with the car off I pushed the car back and the engine was rocking
What was the issue? I have the same noise
Mines doing the same sht. Thru a fuel pump coils engine mount cv axle hubs . Smh
i have the same problem did you figure it out?
Motor mounts
@@frankytamaca1210 bot motor mounts for me I haven’t found out uet
I added a comment with the fix
Mine did this and I replaced all mounts. Ended up being a support rod from the aub frame to the car shell and pass it goes from shell to the control arm and all vibration went away
@jessegoodspeed, would it be possible to send a picture or describe the repair a bit more?
Go ahead and disconnect the battery, then ziptie the positive to the negative. Then after 2 hours, connect the battery, idle in neutral for 30 minutes, then take if for a drive to relearn the idle, driving style, of course, after you change your pcv valve. This is cause by the PCV valve getting weak and the engine making up for it. If you dont reset the computer then it will just continue the way it was taught.
@@armandogamboa5559 over 55 is usually a wheel balance. Yes, disconnect both negative and positive from battery first. This discharged all voltage that may be left over. Same as hitting the power button on a computer after unplugging. They also have a pedal reset procedure. It took about 20 trust but I finally got it.
@@armandogamboa5559 that cant be good. Time to get a checkup at the local mechanic.
Go have it rest don't ziptie the cables together you can send 12 volts to things that run on 5v and totally screw up your cars computer
@@jonboatmorava9115 you wont send 12 volts to anything. the battery and the ground will be Disconnected. this discharges the capacitors.
@@warthundercinematic.113 ok I'll just use proper tools you do what's doing good for you.
Was the car drivable like this at all ?
Ok but where is the solution??? 🙄
Same problem in my 2013 sentra I replace all motor & transmission mounts and still the same but only when i use the A/c, Also clean the throttle and no changes 😡
Did you ever fix your issue? So when you don't use the A/C it's fine and you get the vibration when A/C is on?
@@dennisrobinson8008 not yet
@@11eduardoperez Hi Eduardo. I'm in another post about a "ticking" sound at low speed and in drive while stopped. Here were the possible culprits:
1. Engine mounts
2. Computer relearn needs to be done
3. Rubber grommet under airbox is missing causing the plastic to vibrate on medal
4. I saw you mentioned the hood rod can rattle due to the snapping mechanism being broken
5. It was mentioned another user had a ticking sound and it was due to old oil, after oil change the sound left to never return
On yours where the entire engine is vibrating it could be #2 and #5, it sound like you already addressed the mounts.
The support rods driver side from body to the sub frame abd pass side body to the control arm
Finally, get a diagnosis?
I added a comment with my solution
Do y’all fix this yet?
I have now. Please see the comment I made above
I have the same problem. Did you find the fix yet?
me too
Me too, f*ck Nissans
I randomly got the same problem too, it just started.
I have added a comment with the solution
@@migquail cuál fue la.solucion
My car is like that now its not moving
Engine mounts
Not a 6 cylinder
Anybody plz help. I have 2018 maxima with same exact problem. No check engine light and engine mounts are fine
I have added a comment with the solution for my car
Don’t buy Indian Made even backpain also coming
Clean the throttle body