-Just did the torque mounts, and I found that a little bottle jack (2 ton Hyper Tough Walmart cheapy) was very helpful to the process (hat tip CrickiKaze B15 forum Mod par excellence). I advise installing both of the Tq-mount through bolts first, then the 17mm cross member bolts up front, then take the bottle jack and push up the rear into place (it is level & you have more work area). The crossmember bushings were shredded and I regret not acquiring them (unless you do the washer/wheel hopper jazz). I should note that I did support the tranny at some point as it was sagging & swaying like granny's handbag.
Excellent camera work and narration throughout the video. Thanks for explaining what you were doing and what size socket you were using. How long did it take from start to finish? Im helping my son change his on his 2005 Sentra manual trans this coming weekend.
Does the engine/transmission need to be supported when dropping the cross member? Nice tutorial, but next time no need to fast forward -personally I could have benefitted from watching the whole procedure, thanks.
Thank you, we will keep that in mind when editing next time. No need to fully support engine/transmission you just need to put a bit a pressure on either of them to get the pressure off the crossmember bolts to pull them out.
@@OXCFilms Thanks jefe, one las question if I may be permitted: On the transmission mount, wouldn't it be easier to remove the nut instead of going after the recessed bolt head?
@@OXCFilms Sorry but I got one more: Did you have all 4 wheels up for the cross member to distribute the tension, or are the front two alone jacked up adequate?
Yes from what we can remember its only 1 for each mount from crossmenber to engine and 2 bolts from cross member to body in the front and 2 in the rear
-Just did the torque mounts, and I found that a little bottle jack (2 ton Hyper Tough Walmart cheapy) was very helpful to the process (hat tip CrickiKaze B15 forum Mod par excellence). I advise installing both of the Tq-mount through bolts first, then the 17mm cross member bolts up front, then take the bottle jack and push up the rear into place (it is level & you have more work area). The crossmember bushings were shredded and I regret not acquiring them (unless you do the washer/wheel hopper jazz). I should note that I did support the tranny at some point as it was sagging & swaying like granny's handbag.
Excellent camera work and narration throughout the video. Thanks for explaining what you were doing and what size socket you were using. How long did it take from start to finish? Im helping my son change his on his 2005 Sentra manual trans this coming weekend.
Thank you for your feedback. We are glad you found this video helpful. Cant remember how long it took us to be honest with you.
The transmission one is hard to do
Yes that one is a bit harder, but all you have to do is let the transmission drop a little but and you can get to the bolts
Is it safe too say that when the cars at stop in drive shaking , in park shaking but in neutral smooth that this would be the problem
Can be a possibility
had that issue from day one brand new from dealer, took it back for a checkup they said it's normal been diving like that for almost 20 years now LOL
Did the car vibrate/rattle after the new mounts were installed? I’m curious about the quality of SKP mounts
How sketchy is it lowering the transmission to get to the bolts? If I let it drop too much won’t it break something?
Not sketchy at all. It only drops about a inch or 2 so nothing gets damaged or anything. We lowered it very slowly
Does the engine/transmission need to be supported when dropping the cross member? Nice tutorial, but next time no need to fast forward -personally I could have benefitted from watching the whole procedure, thanks.
Thank you, we will keep that in mind when editing next time. No need to fully support engine/transmission you just need to put a bit a pressure on either of them to get the pressure off the crossmember bolts to pull them out.
@@OXCFilms Thanks jefe, one las question if I may be permitted: On the transmission mount, wouldn't it be easier to remove the nut instead of going after the recessed bolt head?
The nut is actually welded to the body of the car, no way to remove it
@@OXCFilms Sorry but I got one more: Did you have all 4 wheels up for the cross member to distribute the tension, or are the front two alone jacked up adequate?
@davidm3210 we only jacked up the car from the front. The rear wheels were still on the floor.
One more question, when dropping the crossmember you said I can either support the engine OR the transmission. Meaning that either is okay ??
Yes aslong as its not on the oil pan.
Did the car rattle on bad roads with worn out mounts?
No it was like clunking noise
Thank you so much for making the video.
Glad this video was helpful to you
It’s only those four bolts to drop the cross member ? Or are there other bolts you have to take out before dropping cross member with mounts
Yes from what we can remember its only 1 for each mount from crossmenber to engine and 2 bolts from cross member to body in the front and 2 in the rear
Hey where did you put the jack on the transmission to lower it ? Where is it safe to place?
We put it right under it in the middle sections of the transmission. DONT NOT put it on the engine oil pan