Be sure to subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Then get your FMG hat here; three color combos www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
FMG remote oil filter job completed now on my car. Tip would be watch the order you need to tighten the hoses . Sometimes you can not get to the fitting and do the thing up…. Thanks mike for the idea / fix
Awesome! And, good point about the hoses. When I remount mine, (Because of the Frame Brace I installed), I'll be more clear about fitting selection, etc... Thanks for the comment!
Thanks! Just make sure you plan on a two quart filter, for a pontiac. (It helps with the pressure differential at high RPM) Here's my two quart video to give you more ideas... ruclips.net/video/ETDMUV7T9oM/видео.htmlsi=as9sXwdGBl77icXe
Thanks for posting..... I’ve been driving myself crazy trying to come up with a perfect location for this on my 67..... your install is the way to go.... Thanks Much...! Greatly Appreciate the help.. 👍👍👍🎯
Great to hear! Yeah, the remote filter is a game changer for sure! I'm going to use the extra port for a back up digital oil pressure gauge. (I still have the stock analog gauges, which are working, but I'm always wondering how accurate they are... a future video, for sure!) Thanks again for the comment.
Great video but those braided lines what's the temperature can they can handle before thermal meltdown and and potentially loss of oil pressure? Personally I would use stainless steel braided for this just to play it safe especially close to the headers like that.
Fantastic question, Don. Surprisingly enough, the Nylon Braid and Stainless Steel braid have the same operating temperature limit of 300F. I suspect that that's for the internal temperature, not external, where I agree with you... if you touch the headers, then what? Hmmmm, gonna have to research this some more. Thanks for the awesome point!
Hey Roger, it's in the Description of the video. On new news, please try and plan on using a 2 quart oil filter. That accommodates for pressure loss at rpm. (Whereas the stock housing has a built in bypass) Hope that helps!
In the sixties I had components for block and remote filter made - to be fitted to a Mercedes diesel because where the oil filter was, it was plain awarked to remove. Now 2022 I have had stainless steel headers fitted to a 1987 Toyota Carina , this has made it IMPOSSIBLE to change the filter. Thus I wiil have to do the same again. At the same time I wiill have the headers taped to reduce heat in the engine bay I will. probably fit a larger filter at the remote position.
Thanks Marcus... if you're doing this to a Pontiac, make sure you plan on using a 2 Quart Oil Filter. It alleviates any pressure fluctuation when removing the bypass valve in the stock filter housing. Have fun!
@@sampson7941 Nice! Yeah, per Butler Performance, get the 2 quart Morosso filter that they have on their site. (They told me about the bypass issue, AFTER I filmed this episode. :))
I'll keep that in mind... the beauty of the AN fittings is they can rotate, even though they're tightened in the plate, which allows access to the bolts. At some point I'll re-visit this subject, because I need to use a 2 quart filter, and craft a cover plate so nothing hits it, underneath the car. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@craigannettewallace4653 Good question, no the fittings do not exceed the block thickness. And No, no RTV needed. You might need to get longer bolts... (I can't remember) Also, after filming this episode I found that a 2 quart oil filter is better because you have accommodate pressure drop. Because we removed the original housing that has a oil bypass valve. The extra volume of the 2 quart filter prevents starvation. I'll eventually do a follow up video, but don't know when. Here's a link to the filter that works... (also recommended by Butler) www.amazon.com/dp/B000COS4HU?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d Let me know how it goes!
What up Monty great vids brother 👍🏿 so I'm getting ready to install a set of dougs on my 66 Goat and low and behold this exact convo about oil filter came up between me and the hommie. I swear their listening because this vid popped up soon as I got on youtube. Im thinkin about running the trans adapt relocation kit and buying the an fittings braided hose kit from Amazon. Any experience with trans adapt I've heard mixed reviews but being that my money is funny and my change is strange I gots ta do what I got ta do 😆
Hey Sean! yeah, I'm convinced our phones are listening to us too... glad it was! Ha ha! Agreed!... gotta do whatcha gotta do! Have fun, and thanks for being a part of the channel!
I purchased a remote oil kit and watched a few vids, one the guy reccomends not installing one early after a rebuild, and 2 higher than the outlet port as metal flakes etc may not flow up
Interesting points Dan... not sure how valid, or invalid they are. I've seen race set ups mounted higher than the oil ports. I'm sure you've seen those too... the double canister type, usually mounted high in the engine compartment. Anyway, one thing that's a must, is using a 2 quart oil filter. I didn't know this, during filming this video, but the adapter plate we have for our engines do NOT have a oil pass through valve. It is needed at high rpm, where there's a pressure drop, and basically no oil flows through the filter. But, apparently a 2 quart filter fixes that problem when using a remote oil adapter. Hope that helps. Here's the filter Bulter Performance recommends for remote oil filters. butlerperformance.com/i-24453390-moroso-oil-filter-13-16-in-16-thread-tall-2-quart-style-mor-22461.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dmor-
Thanks Rich... I've heard the same thing. But, I don't know what the part numbers are, or, if a smaller filter has any negative side effects for our engines. That said, I heard it's a filter for early 70's Cadillac's... ? Keep us posted!
Mike the oil pressure gauge does it need liquid gasket due to earthing to work ? Or can I use ptfe tape ? So many questions about the other end 😃 now you are doing the reinstalling we get the revamped video 😆
I saw that the kit on butler is running 10an, but looking at one of the links the fittings were 6an, was there any reason for this? I'm doing this after finding a slow leak coming from my oil pressure sensor. Could not get the stupid thing off to replace it even with multiple hits of PBblaster over a 24 hour period. Finally got tired of it and ended up unbolting the filter housing and prying on it with a screwdriver to break the ultra black until it snapped free and came smashing into my head. Anyways, I've still got a bunch of black stainless 6an hose from aeroflow, so hopefully I can just order some fittings along with the rest of the components and be done with it. 🌴😎🤙
Ohhh the fun dealing with really old fittings. Ha, ha... first I'm hearing of the size -06 fittings. I think my only concern is volume. Pressure will remain constant from a -10 to a -06, but the reduction in cross section might limit the flow. Might need to ask Butler about that one. :) Let us know what you end up doing.
Update for anyone interested in doing this project. Minimum recommended size from butler is 10 an. However the moroso front port oil filter mount that FMG linked has two 12an inlets and one outlet so might as well just run 12an. Fittings will need to be: (×2) 1/2" npt to 12an (×2) 12an female to male All four of these in whatever angle you're needing as well as (×4) 12an hose fittings. The moroso adapter comes with the plugs you'll need for the extra inlet port and the extra 1/4" npt port.
@@FastMonty One thing I've really noticed with my 455 based 462 is that the larger mains really add quite a bit of heat to the oil. My Morel lifters really start clacking away as the oil heats up and pressures fall as a result. Really showed up at the car's first outing to the drag strip, so it's certainly on the agenda.
@@FastMonty 60psi @ WOT, 45-50 at cruise and around 15psi at idle. If I've been at a steady high rpm cruise for a while or I've been beating on the car, idle pressures drop to 10-12psi.
Great video however what are you doing about the heat soak off the headers? The application appears to address the convenience of changing the oil filter but makes a bad situation worse with heat as the overall "area" where the oil passes has increased substantially.
Thanks for the comment... and, I don't think heat soak will be increased. The original location is closer to the headers than the new location. The new location also has more airflow. If you're referring to the braided rubber lines, I don't think that's going to have much affect. Regardless, it's a good point to keep in mind. I'll watch for any changes, but the motor is still running cool as ever. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty I did something similar with my Olds 442/455 but ran the lines forward along the block, elbowing adjacent the fuel pump block off and mounted the remote unit on the passenger side front fender forward area. Also allowed me to have my filter screw upwards instead of sideways. Easy access, easy removal and away from the Hooker's. Again, nice job on the videos.
@@brilliantoperations9774 That's Brilliant! Pun intended... thanks for sharing what you did. That's exactly what this channel is intended for, to give others great ideas to use on their builds. Hope to see more comments from you in the future, and thanks again for taking the time to leave a comment. See you soon!
When I make hydraulic hoses I use compressed air to flush debris out of hoses. No sense in putting it thru the engine. Air has to be filtered so no debris from compressor stays in line after flushing it out.
Yep! Most of the parts are in the description, but I recently learned you should also run the tall Moroso racing filter. butlerperformance.com/i-26236790-moroso-aluminum-remote-oil-filter-bracket-front-line-black-mor-23764.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter Here's the filter ... butlerperformance.com/i-24453390-moroso-oil-filter-13-16-in-16-thread-tall-2-quart-style-mor-22461.html
I found a better way, since filming this video. Ironically, that video airs next week. The title will be: "Fuel Injection Conversion, Part 6: How to Plumb fuel lines using AN Hose and AN Fittings." I love the new method... thanks for the comment, and let me know your thoughts on "the new way", after you see it. See ya!
Hey there wonder if you could do me a big one my 69 GTO was molested so I’m trying to install a new engine harness and want to see a layout of harness under the hood And also hood tach wiring to the hei distributor Thanks in advance. Tony E
Welcome to the channel, Tony! I don't have any wire harness video's, yet... however, in the next few weeks, I'll be installing a Fuel Injection Throttle Body, where the wiring portion does show a quite a bit of my wire harness, including the required 12 gage power wire you need for your HEI unit. The tach is just another wire that goes to the HEI. (I don't have a hood tach, but, it should be the same wiring, including a power lead)
Hey there hope you doing well Another question do you know if the OEM left side have a threaded water fitting under the cap at left rear for water outlet ?
Are you referring to the rear of the driver side head? If you have stock heads, it's not threaded. Check out this video, if you haven't already... ruclips.net/video/DWvVkrGQDsw/видео.html
Hi Monte, just a thought but I am sure you already considered it. After watching your video on oil filter relocation . I just thought that the line's should be at a down wards angle so when you change your oil and filter the oil will have gravity to help drain the line's.
@@FastMonty glad to hear , I wasn't trying to sound like a know it all , but was just trying to be helpful. Thanks . keep the video's coming can't wait to see her on the road.👍😀
Ha! I appreciate that. Why can't all my car friends live on my street? No one would care how loud you are, grinding, banging, swearing, and especially starting your monster motor at 6am to go to a car show... 😂
@@FastMonty I'm way older then you. Your just a younger version of me. I thought of living in that neighborhood in the early 1960's 👍 Oh by the way My first new car was a 1960 tri power 4 speed car.
Be sure to subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Then get your FMG hat here; three color combos www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
FMG remote oil filter job completed now on my car.
Tip would be watch the order you need to tighten the hoses . Sometimes you can not get to the fitting and do the thing up….
Thanks mike for the idea / fix
Awesome! And, good point about the hoses. When I remount mine, (Because of the Frame Brace I installed), I'll be more clear about fitting selection, etc... Thanks for the comment!
Awesome knowledge, tips & tools great work bro can't wait to get working on my ride
Thanks! Just make sure you plan on a two quart filter, for a pontiac. (It helps with the pressure differential at high RPM) Here's my two quart video to give you more ideas... ruclips.net/video/ETDMUV7T9oM/видео.htmlsi=as9sXwdGBl77icXe
Thanks for posting.....
I’ve been driving myself crazy trying to come up with a perfect location for this on my 67..... your install is the way to go....
Thanks Much...!
Greatly Appreciate the help..
👍👍👍🎯
Great to hear! Yeah, the remote filter is a game changer for sure! I'm going to use the extra port for a back up digital oil pressure gauge. (I still have the stock analog gauges, which are working, but I'm always wondering how accurate they are... a future video, for sure!) Thanks again for the comment.
Great video but those braided lines what's the temperature can they can handle before thermal meltdown and and potentially loss of oil pressure? Personally I would use stainless steel braided for this just to play it safe especially close to the headers like that.
Fantastic question, Don. Surprisingly enough, the Nylon Braid and Stainless Steel braid have the same operating temperature limit of 300F. I suspect that that's for the internal temperature, not external, where I agree with you... if you touch the headers, then what? Hmmmm, gonna have to research this some more. Thanks for the awesome point!
Hey Mike! Thanks again! I’m on this step now, you wouldn’t mind giving me a part number for remote oil filter housing would you?
Hey Roger, it's in the Description of the video. On new news, please try and plan on using a 2 quart oil filter. That accommodates for pressure loss at rpm. (Whereas the stock housing has a built in bypass) Hope that helps!
Thanks Monty, for always "taking it to the next level"
Ha! you know me well... thanks for the comment!
Looks great Mike , can’t wait to hear it run!
Thanks Bill!
Thanks a bunch Mike! I like the progress so far. Let's get her fired up asap!
Thanks, and agreed! Thanks for the comment!
In the sixties I had components for block and remote filter made - to be fitted to a Mercedes diesel because where the oil filter was, it was plain awarked to remove. Now 2022 I have had stainless steel headers fitted to a 1987 Toyota Carina , this has made it IMPOSSIBLE to change the filter. Thus I wiil have to do the same again. At the same time I wiill have the headers taped to reduce heat in the engine bay I will. probably fit a larger filter at the remote position.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that story... love the creativity... have fun!
Flush the lines before connecting get rid of metal filings
Agreed. Great tip! Thanks!
Good video. Still on my to do list. Think ill put it on the fender, away from the heat or maybe all the way up front.
Thanks Marcus... if you're doing this to a Pontiac, make sure you plan on using a 2 Quart Oil Filter. It alleviates any pressure fluctuation when removing the bypass valve in the stock filter housing. Have fun!
@@FastMonty ok thanks Mike. Good to know. It is a pontiac. Butler 467 in a 79 trans am
@@sampson7941 Nice! Yeah, per Butler Performance, get the 2 quart Morosso filter that they have on their site. (They told me about the bypass issue, AFTER I filmed this episode. :))
@@FastMonty ok. I like the idea of more capacity
You anytime you want to do an oil change you need to order a filter? Is there a local parts store option available?
Hey mike can you do a follow up on the remote location.
You didn’t show the plate to engine block install
I'll keep that in mind... the beauty of the AN fittings is they can rotate, even though they're tightened in the plate, which allows access to the bolts. At some point I'll re-visit this subject, because I need to use a 2 quart filter, and craft a cover plate so nothing hits it, underneath the car. Thanks for the suggestion!
Mike - did you permatex the gasket? I gather you used butlers plate is there any concerns about the depth of the an fittings going into the block
@@craigannettewallace4653 Good question, no the fittings do not exceed the block thickness. And No, no RTV needed. You might need to get longer bolts... (I can't remember) Also, after filming this episode I found that a 2 quart oil filter is better because you have accommodate pressure drop. Because we removed the original housing that has a oil bypass valve. The extra volume of the 2 quart filter prevents starvation. I'll eventually do a follow up video, but don't know when. Here's a link to the filter that works... (also recommended by Butler) www.amazon.com/dp/B000COS4HU?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d Let me know how it goes!
So if your running a cooler will it be the same setup just with more line running in and out of the cooler
Exactly. Have fun!
I really like the remote sending unit part of it as well. Mine is in a terrible spot right behind the intake manifold and the firewall(ford 400).
Ahhh, good point. Best to get those electronics away from excessive heat too... thanks for the comment!
What up Monty great vids brother 👍🏿 so I'm getting ready to install a set of dougs on my 66 Goat and low and behold this exact convo about oil filter came up between me and the hommie. I swear their listening because this vid popped up soon as I got on youtube. Im thinkin about running the trans adapt relocation kit and buying the an fittings braided hose kit from Amazon. Any experience with trans adapt I've heard mixed reviews but being that my money is funny and my change is strange I gots ta do what I got ta do 😆
Hey Sean! yeah, I'm convinced our phones are listening to us too... glad it was! Ha ha! Agreed!... gotta do whatcha gotta do! Have fun, and thanks for being a part of the channel!
Great progress & nice install. I'm falling behind on my heads cam swap on the Ventura lol!
Ha! Thanks!
I purchased a remote oil kit and watched a few vids, one the guy reccomends not installing one early after a rebuild, and 2 higher than the outlet port as metal flakes etc may not flow up
Interesting points Dan... not sure how valid, or invalid they are. I've seen race set ups mounted higher than the oil ports. I'm sure you've seen those too... the double canister type, usually mounted high in the engine compartment. Anyway, one thing that's a must, is using a 2 quart oil filter. I didn't know this, during filming this video, but the adapter plate we have for our engines do NOT have a oil pass through valve. It is needed at high rpm, where there's a pressure drop, and basically no oil flows through the filter. But, apparently a 2 quart filter fixes that problem when using a remote oil adapter. Hope that helps. Here's the filter Bulter Performance recommends for remote oil filters. butlerperformance.com/i-24453390-moroso-oil-filter-13-16-in-16-thread-tall-2-quart-style-mor-22461.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dmor-
Hey Monty, I've heard some guys use a short oil filter to clear headers, do you happen to know the part number? Great videos. thanks
Thanks Rich... I've heard the same thing. But, I don't know what the part numbers are, or, if a smaller filter has any negative side effects for our engines. That said, I heard it's a filter for early 70's Cadillac's... ? Keep us posted!
Got it ,Thats funny I just received a order for all my engine parts from KRE except the heads I'll see if I can have them include it, but thanks
Cool... and thank you, I added the same to the description for others to look up. Have fun!
Mike the oil pressure gauge does it need liquid gasket due to earthing to work ? Or can I use ptfe tape ? So many questions about the other end 😃 now you are doing the reinstalling we get the revamped video 😆
Good question, do NOT use PTFE tape. :) New install video is on my list, thanks for the reminder!
Thanks for the fantastic content and the inspiration Mike! My 69 Gto has a ways to go but you keep the ideas coming nicely!
Great to hear! One part at a time...
I saw that the kit on butler is running 10an, but looking at one of the links the fittings were 6an, was there any reason for this? I'm doing this after finding a slow leak coming from my oil pressure sensor. Could not get the stupid thing off to replace it even with multiple hits of PBblaster over a 24 hour period. Finally got tired of it and ended up unbolting the filter housing and prying on it with a screwdriver to break the ultra black until it snapped free and came smashing into my head. Anyways, I've still got a bunch of black stainless 6an hose from aeroflow, so hopefully I can just order some fittings along with the rest of the components and be done with it. 🌴😎🤙
Ohhh the fun dealing with really old fittings. Ha, ha... first I'm hearing of the size -06 fittings. I think my only concern is volume. Pressure will remain constant from a -10 to a -06, but the reduction in cross section might limit the flow. Might need to ask Butler about that one. :) Let us know what you end up doing.
Update for anyone interested in doing this project. Minimum recommended size from butler is 10 an. However the moroso front port oil filter mount that FMG linked has two 12an inlets and one outlet so might as well just run 12an.
Fittings will need to be:
(×2) 1/2" npt to 12an
(×2) 12an female to male
All four of these in whatever angle you're needing as well as
(×4) 12an hose fittings.
The moroso adapter comes with the plugs you'll need for the extra inlet port and the extra 1/4" npt port.
I like the oil filter gasket I dont see it here knowing you I'll look at Butler
I think those are at BOP Engineering.
Found it... www.tinindianperformance.com/Pontiac%20oil%20filter%20housing.htm
Nice install. This is definitely on my list as well, if not more for the oil cooler option than anything. Appreciate the knowledge!
Yeah, love the flexibility of multiple ports... I'm debating an oil cooler myself. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty One thing I've really noticed with my 455 based 462 is that the larger mains really add quite a bit of heat to the oil. My Morel lifters really start clacking away as the oil heats up and pressures fall as a result. Really showed up at the car's first outing to the drag strip, so it's certainly on the agenda.
@@JLMounce Understood... what pump pressure you running? What oil?
@@FastMonty 60psi @ WOT, 45-50 at cruise and around 15psi at idle. If I've been at a steady high rpm cruise for a while or I've been beating on the car, idle pressures drop to 10-12psi.
@@JLMounce what oil are you using?
How much for it where to get it
Thanks John... all the links are in the description. Have fun!
Great video however what are you doing about the heat soak off the headers? The application appears to address the convenience of changing the oil filter but makes a bad situation worse with heat as the overall "area" where the oil passes has increased substantially.
Thanks for the comment... and, I don't think heat soak will be increased. The original location is closer to the headers than the new location. The new location also has more airflow. If you're referring to the braided rubber lines, I don't think that's going to have much affect. Regardless, it's a good point to keep in mind. I'll watch for any changes, but the motor is still running cool as ever. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty I did something similar with my Olds 442/455 but ran the lines forward along the block, elbowing adjacent the fuel pump block off and mounted the remote unit on the passenger side front fender forward area. Also allowed me to have my filter screw upwards instead of sideways. Easy access, easy removal and away from the Hooker's. Again, nice job on the videos.
@@brilliantoperations9774 That's Brilliant! Pun intended... thanks for sharing what you did. That's exactly what this channel is intended for, to give others great ideas to use on their builds. Hope to see more comments from you in the future, and thanks again for taking the time to leave a comment. See you soon!
When I make hydraulic hoses I use compressed air to flush debris out of hoses. No sense in putting it thru the engine. Air has to be filtered so no debris from compressor stays in line after flushing it out.
Thanks Martin! What a great idea! Thanks for sharing... see you soon.
Answered with the wrong account, duplicating my answer here... Thanks Martin! What a great idea! Thanks for sharing... see you soon.
Hi Mike, Do you have a parts list for the remote oil filter main components (the Moroso pieces). I'd like to duplicate what you've done. Thanks, Jeff
Yep! Most of the parts are in the description, but I recently learned you should also run the tall Moroso racing filter. butlerperformance.com/i-26236790-moroso-aluminum-remote-oil-filter-bracket-front-line-black-mor-23764.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter Here's the filter ... butlerperformance.com/i-24453390-moroso-oil-filter-13-16-in-16-thread-tall-2-quart-style-mor-22461.html
Leave the end taped only leave a tab to pull the tape out once the hose end is on the hose.
I found a better way, since filming this video. Ironically, that video airs next week. The title will be: "Fuel Injection Conversion, Part 6: How to Plumb fuel lines using AN Hose and AN Fittings." I love the new method... thanks for the comment, and let me know your thoughts on "the new way", after you see it. See ya!
@@FastMonty I look forward to seeing what you've come up with. All of mine have been SS, those rogue strands sure can be painful.
@@renaissanceman7145 ha, ha! Yeah, those strands in the finger, gets old really fast.
Hey there wonder if you could do me a big one my 69 GTO was molested so I’m trying to install a new engine harness and want to see a layout of harness under the hood
And also hood tach wiring to the hei distributor
Thanks in advance. Tony E
Welcome to the channel, Tony! I don't have any wire harness video's, yet... however, in the next few weeks, I'll be installing a Fuel Injection Throttle Body, where the wiring portion does show a quite a bit of my wire harness, including the required 12 gage power wire you need for your HEI unit. The tach is just another wire that goes to the HEI. (I don't have a hood tach, but, it should be the same wiring, including a power lead)
Have you installed a oil catch can setup for the pcv system?
Not yet... I just discovered I had a problem... check it out, and the associated video on AutotopiaLA ruclips.net/video/n8CmUhn7clM/видео.html
Hey there hope you doing well
Another question do you know if the OEM left side have a threaded water fitting under the cap at left rear for water outlet ?
Are you referring to the rear of the driver side head? If you have stock heads, it's not threaded. Check out this video, if you haven't already... ruclips.net/video/DWvVkrGQDsw/видео.html
Love the video thanks
Thanks Dwayne! See you next project...
Can you use vasoline on the braided hose to make it easier.?
Good question John. My guess is any lube would help. ;) Thanks for the comment!
Hi Monte, just a thought but I am sure you already considered it. After watching your video on oil filter relocation . I just thought that the line's should be at a down wards angle so when you change your oil and filter the oil will have gravity to help drain the line's.
@@johnkennedy8452 yeah, John, the lines and the oil filter fitting itself is angled down. Love it!
@@FastMonty glad to hear , I wasn't trying to sound like a know it all , but was just trying to be helpful. Thanks . keep the video's coming can't wait to see her on the road.👍😀
Why cant I have a guy like you living next door to me.
Ha! I appreciate that. Why can't all my car friends live on my street? No one would care how loud you are, grinding, banging, swearing, and especially starting your monster motor at 6am to go to a car show... 😂
@@FastMonty I'm way older then you. Your just a younger version of me. I thought of living in that neighborhood in the early 1960's 👍 Oh by the way My first new car was a 1960 tri power 4 speed car.
@@63grandsport11 Ha, ha... I still need to find that neighborhood. Awesome first car!
Ratchet strap around the header and the frame. At least that's how I use to do it because I was a broke teenager.
Ha! Too funny. Gotta do whatcha gotta do. Thanks for the comment!