Second hand - you have to be careful who you are buying it off, and also always strip it down completely and rebuild it as per instructions, as you never know what nasties you might find, and you will never know for sure what shock oils or diff oils are used in it. This saves alot of time with setup and handling problems later. Best bet look for the fast guy at your club and buy his old car..lol
Agreed, especialy with nitro. Most used nitro cars/trucks I've looked at, it's for sale because the engine doesn't run right, that means they didn't break it in right, or worst case, not at all.
Agreed. Even for electric. As quite lot people do not keep on top on maintennace... and don't understands how to build the kits E.G simple screw sizes...peole use screws that are too long or to short damaging or stripping the plastic or aluminium....So a second hand kit could cost you more than a new one in the end.... From experience I would buy the outgoing kit discounted new from suppliers. Plus you understand how the car goes together
Some ESC's risk damage if you connect the positive and negative the wrong way round (check the small print). Conversely, some ESC's are now protected from that mistake - however, the best answer is to set the plus or minus lead lengths so that one of them cannot reach the wrong place. The other option is to attach say a 'Deans' or an XT60 / XT90 connector etc, - so again not so easy to connect the wrong way round just before going out for a run - seen it many times! The other answer to lead lengths and swapping motors without soldering is to get some 4mm gold plated 'click' connector bullets from HobbyKing - this way you can suit the cable lengths to each car and motors are a quicker swap. I have never had one of these 'click' connectors come undone and I'm surprised more people are not using them - possibly because they do not know they exist - unless you know better? After all, you plug in your batteries this way so the resistance loss is insignificant.
Some great advice & good suggestions for equipment to potentially buy. I would definitely recommend paying a bit more for the electrics, for the reasons Gavin highlights. Even as a seasoned (long in the tooth) racer, I still tend to buy second hand over new. Crazy to think that I bought my Associated B6 (og version) around 7 years ago! I think it was still the current AE 2wd at that time, but saw it at a good price & it came with a ton of nip spares & a few upgrades. I’m still running that car & it is still competitive at the club level I race, finishing 3rd in the A final a few weeks back on a club night (J16) against a field of mostly B7s and a few LD3s!
This is the most informative rc video when going racing that I’ve seen just now. I used to race back in the 90’s with a Lazer ZX and Cougar. Thinking about re-living my childhood and this was such a good watch. Your channel gives so much info. You’re smashing it mate. There are lots of people our age that want to get back into it. Please keep it coming with the race stuff.
@@MarkNash-jf3ghStick vs wheel is mainly preference, but stick is a dying breed. It essentially just exists due to some people who grew up using it and never bothered switching, so there is a tiny market still, but unless you know you need/want stick, go with a wheel transmitter. Stick transmitters are substantially more expensive than their equivalent wheel models. T
I'm the same, just getting back into racing 30 years after my Cougar. Couldn't drive to save my life BITD, bit the bullet and gone wheel this time around and hey presto! I can now drive 🙂
Recently picked an Xray XB2 2023 model. The 2024 model doesn't have much more in the way of meaningful upgrades, and many of the parts are cross compatible. Got it with a handful of upgrades and wheels and tires and a custom painted body for less than half of what the 2024 costs. As far as the ESC, I went Hobbywing too, but got the Juststock XR10, only because alot of tracks around here follow ROAR rules, and the Quicrun isn't ROAR approved. As far as having to have the latest and greatest, the TLR 22 5.0 is a bit long in the tooth and still winning championships.
SPT4412LV low profile servo is what I have been using in shelvers, and 3 of my full race cars, excellent comparable to Savox speed and strength. Here in Australia, I've just bought an XR10 brand new for $91 and found an LRP SXXV2 from the States $100AUD, that will go into my Agama N110, with Pro amps brushless 17.5t motor for $65 AUD. The car itself gonna be less than budget friendly, but it'll be certainly a nice car to have ready to run! Second hand with all the fruit, really makes it worthwhile, as like you said, prices drop drastically on older models. But they can still win races, from those with brand new kits!
2nd hand is a good way to go for your first 'proper' car, there are some real bargains to be had. Personally, I would decide on what class I want to try, do some research about prices/spares etc and set yourself a budget, and stick to it. I use a Noble NB4 and it's absolutely brilliant, I've had no issues with it at all. There is so much choice these days, it can be bewildering for those more experienced people, let alone a beginner. If you can go to your local hobby shop and get some advice, and find a club near you and go along to get some advice, and if you're lucky have a go of a car or three!
I did have some luck buying used cars. I'm still racing my Xray T4F'21 and my ARC R12. The R12 was in better shape, for the Xray it was raced a lot so had to buy some new parts (driveshafts, belt), but always strip down and inspect the whole car, replace bearing and oils in the shocks.
Interesting video buddy I'm currently 4 races in to my buggy racing adventure and around £280 spent... Now without any further breakages I think it's as with all motor sports "tyres" are where all my money is going 😂🤑🤑💵💸💸 Have a good one 👍
Bought a associated 74.2 with Electronics and a lot of spare parts for 460€ ( with two batteries) good as new ( he liked is 1/8 more) think that was a great deal
Sadly, folks now missed out because even 10 years ago a B4 was half as much. everyone ran mod so you bought your motor and forgot about it because we all had too much power. That and lipos were lipos. It didn’t matter you were trying to tone the car down actually. You didn’t have to worry about weight savings because you actually had to add weight to the car to make it faster. Nowadays, stock car cost twice as much as a mod which are twice as much as a B4 was. People are spending almost as much money on the car in hop ups as the car itself. Most run stock now and therefore have to play the motor of the month game. They also torch their batteries, flirting with blowin em up by charging them within an inch of their life to get extra punch. Oh yes, and now the car change every 12 to 18 months. You might as well call it touring car with jumps. -U10
Here in the UK, mod is still the default class for buggies, I run a 6.5 in my AE B6 indoors on a tight twisty track, I run the same set-up outside on a more flowing track.... I just adjust my driving to suit. I agree that stock racing in any class of r/c racing is a bit of a misnomer. It’s normally brought in as attempt to slow cars down & brings costs down too.... except more emphasis goes on buying the latest & greatest (but slower than mod) motor, high c-rating batteries etc, just to get the edge, this is when it gets expensive!
Have you seen the very limited by himself, mx-4 forever ? Only 100 made. Gotta check it out! 263,000 yen for the fully built in a custom box. A little too rich for my blood, hard to justify that amount for a 10th scale.
Yep. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the money together in time myself, so I missed out on placing an order. I know someone who is getting one and I was kindly offered the chance to get it on the show so you can all see it.
I starting racing in the US, The entry fees and transponder need and cost had me drop out. $30 entry per class and a limited use part was just not in my budget. Transponders are expensive for what they are.
Racing on a budget I’m definitely doing that wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣 thankfully I don’t have a misses to answer to just my credit card company I do tend to buy the newest thing but I’ll tend to race it until it’s obsolete or so outdated it’s not competitive anymore I’m still running an updated B6.1 with some 6.2/6.3 updates along side my T6.2 not seeing a reason to get a B7 yet and not gonna spend the $ to go 13mm shocks on both kits I’ll save it and get whatever is after the B7
I think a load of them sold when the B7 came out and things have settled down now. The early bumps of the B7 convinced a load of B6.4 owners to hold on to them as well, but the B7 has come on loads now and it's easy to deal with the early issues. Keep an eye out, one will come up soon enough.
You don't need to upgrade a car, run it out the box and upgrade as things get worn out or broken. You've got a problem putting every blue alloy/carbon part on a car before you've run it.
I really enjoy your videos and have participated in some of your raffels but I would love it if the unsettling AI renders of fake people for thumbnails would go away. They make me want to click anything but the video for some reason
Maybe not totally relevant to this video but part of the racing thing...... To me it looks like race meets have a few preliminary rounds and then the fastest go through to finals. What puts me off is I'll admit I'm a crap driver and don't have the time to become anywhere near decent. This has 2 impacts of getting in the way of people that are good and trying for pb and my time on the track would be limited. Are all meets like that or do they have pure open session meets where its just an open track all night? Given you are mostly racing the clock then it's not like you need a start or end point to doing laps.
Second hand - you have to be careful who you are buying it off, and also always strip it down completely and rebuild it as per instructions, as you never know what nasties you might find, and you will never know for sure what shock oils or diff oils are used in it. This saves alot of time with setup and handling problems later. Best bet look for the fast guy at your club and buy his old car..lol
That's what I did. lol
Agreed, especialy with nitro. Most used nitro cars/trucks I've looked at, it's for sale because the engine doesn't run right, that means they didn't break it in right, or worst case, not at all.
Agreed. Even for electric. As quite lot people do not keep on top on maintennace... and don't understands how to build the kits E.G simple screw sizes...peole use screws that are too long or to short damaging or stripping the plastic or aluminium....So a second hand kit could cost you more than a new one in the end.... From experience I would buy the outgoing kit discounted new from suppliers. Plus you understand how the car goes together
Some ESC's risk damage if you connect the positive and negative the wrong way round (check the small print). Conversely, some ESC's are now protected from that mistake - however, the best answer is to set the plus or minus lead lengths so that one of them cannot reach the wrong place.
The other option is to attach say a 'Deans' or an XT60 / XT90 connector etc, - so again not so easy to connect the wrong way round just before going out for a run - seen it many times!
The other answer to lead lengths and swapping motors without soldering is to get some 4mm gold plated 'click' connector bullets from HobbyKing - this way you can suit the cable lengths to each car and motors are a quicker swap. I have never had one of these 'click' connectors come undone and I'm surprised more people are not using them - possibly because they do not know they exist - unless you know better? After all, you plug in your batteries this way so the resistance loss is insignificant.
Some great advice & good suggestions for equipment to potentially buy. I would definitely recommend paying a bit more for the electrics, for the reasons Gavin highlights. Even as a seasoned (long in the tooth) racer, I still tend to buy second hand over new. Crazy to think that I bought my Associated B6 (og version) around 7 years ago! I think it was still the current AE 2wd at that time, but saw it at a good price & it came with a ton of nip spares & a few upgrades. I’m still running that car & it is still competitive at the club level I race, finishing 3rd in the A final a few weeks back on a club night (J16) against a field of mostly B7s and a few LD3s!
This is the most informative rc video when going racing that I’ve seen just now. I used to race back in the 90’s with a Lazer ZX and Cougar. Thinking about re-living my childhood and this was such a good watch. Your channel gives so much info. You’re smashing it mate. There are lots of people our age that want to get back into it. Please keep it coming with the race stuff.
Could you please do a complete comparison with an LD3 vs a B7?
Could you also please do a video on electronics in greater detail. Stick or wheel…
@@MarkNash-jf3ghStick vs wheel is mainly preference, but stick is a dying breed. It essentially just exists due to some people who grew up using it and never bothered switching, so there is a tiny market still, but unless you know you need/want stick, go with a wheel transmitter. Stick transmitters are substantially more expensive than their equivalent wheel models.
T
I'm the same, just getting back into racing 30 years after my Cougar. Couldn't drive to save my life BITD, bit the bullet and gone wheel this time around and hey presto! I can now drive 🙂
Recently picked an Xray XB2 2023 model. The 2024 model doesn't have much more in the way of meaningful upgrades, and many of the parts are cross compatible. Got it with a handful of upgrades and wheels and tires and a custom painted body for less than half of what the 2024 costs. As far as the ESC, I went Hobbywing too, but got the Juststock XR10, only because alot of tracks around here follow ROAR rules, and the Quicrun isn't ROAR approved.
As far as having to have the latest and greatest, the TLR 22 5.0 is a bit long in the tooth and still winning championships.
SPT4412LV low profile servo is what I have been using in shelvers, and 3 of my full race cars, excellent comparable to Savox speed and strength. Here in Australia, I've just bought an XR10 brand new for $91 and found an LRP SXXV2 from the States $100AUD, that will go into my Agama N110, with Pro amps brushless 17.5t motor for $65 AUD. The car itself gonna be less than budget friendly, but it'll be certainly a nice car to have ready to run! Second hand with all the fruit, really makes it worthwhile, as like you said, prices drop drastically on older models. But they can still win races, from those with brand new kits!
2nd hand is a good way to go for your first 'proper' car, there are some real bargains to be had. Personally, I would decide on what class I want to try, do some research about prices/spares etc and set yourself a budget, and stick to it. I use a Noble NB4 and it's absolutely brilliant, I've had no issues with it at all. There is so much choice these days, it can be bewildering for those more experienced people, let alone a beginner. If you can go to your local hobby shop and get some advice, and find a club near you and go along to get some advice, and if you're lucky have a go of a car or three!
I did have some luck buying used cars. I'm still racing my Xray T4F'21 and my ARC R12. The R12 was in better shape, for the Xray it was raced a lot so had to buy some new parts (driveshafts, belt), but always strip down and inspect the whole car, replace bearing and oils in the shocks.
First comment. Also love your channel and what you do. Keep it up!!!!
Interesting video buddy I'm currently 4 races in to my buggy racing adventure and around £280 spent... Now without any further breakages I think it's as with all motor sports "tyres" are where all my money is going 😂🤑🤑💵💸💸
Have a good one 👍
Schumacher does a hex conversion kit for the older cougars so you can use standard 12mm hex wheels.
Bought a associated 74.2 with Electronics and a lot of spare parts for 460€ ( with two batteries) good as new ( he liked is 1/8 more) think that was a great deal
Sadly, folks now missed out because even 10 years ago a B4 was half as much. everyone ran mod so you bought your motor and forgot about it because we all had too much power. That and lipos were lipos. It didn’t matter you were trying to tone the car down actually. You didn’t have to worry about weight savings because you actually had to add weight to the car to make it faster. Nowadays, stock car cost twice as much as a mod which are twice as much as a B4 was. People are spending almost as much money on the car in hop ups as the car itself. Most run stock now and therefore have to play the motor of the month game. They also torch their batteries, flirting with blowin em up by charging them within an inch of their life to get extra punch.
Oh yes, and now the car change every 12 to 18 months. You might as well call it touring car with jumps. -U10
Here in the UK, mod is still the default class for buggies, I run a 6.5 in my AE B6 indoors on a tight twisty track, I run the same set-up outside on a more flowing track.... I just adjust my driving to suit. I agree that stock racing in any class of r/c racing is a bit of a misnomer. It’s normally brought in as attempt to slow cars down & brings costs down too.... except more emphasis goes on buying the latest & greatest (but slower than mod) motor, high c-rating batteries etc, just to get the edge, this is when it gets expensive!
Have you seen the very limited by himself, mx-4 forever ? Only 100 made. Gotta check it out! 263,000 yen for the fully built in a custom box. A little too rich for my blood, hard to justify that amount for a 10th scale.
Yep. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the money together in time myself, so I missed out on placing an order. I know someone who is getting one and I was kindly offered the chance to get it on the show so you can all see it.
I starting racing in the US, The entry fees and transponder need and cost had me drop out. $30 entry per class and a limited use part was just not in my budget. Transponders are expensive for what they are.
Transponders are insanely expensive. I've thought about switching to Flysky. I've heard good things for a much lower price.
gotta pay to play. end up spending like 100x that on tires lmao
Lack of local tracks is an issue near me
Racing on a budget I’m definitely doing that wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣 thankfully I don’t have a misses to answer to just my credit card company
I do tend to buy the newest thing but I’ll tend to race it until it’s obsolete or so outdated it’s not competitive anymore I’m still running an updated B6.1 with some 6.2/6.3 updates along side my T6.2 not seeing a reason to get a B7 yet and not gonna spend the $ to go 13mm shocks on both kits I’ll save it and get whatever is after the B7
I love my flysky gt3b that I run on 5 of my cars. It's good and rx only cost about $10 each
Yep these are a good budget radio. Not amazing for racing due to precision but at that price, you can’t not be impressed
AE stuff takes a long time to depreciate. I can't find an RC10B6.4 any lower than RC10B7
I think a load of them sold when the B7 came out and things have settled down now. The early bumps of the B7 convinced a load of B6.4 owners to hold on to them as well, but the B7 has come on loads now and it's easy to deal with the early issues. Keep an eye out, one will come up soon enough.
You don't need to upgrade a car, run it out the box and upgrade as things get worn out or broken.
You've got a problem putting every blue alloy/carbon part on a car before you've run it.
Go RC Banger Racing instead!
How much was the sv2?
It was a while ago now but I think I paid £100 for it. I did put about £70 into replacing parts so it's now a shelf queen with no damage at all.
Not sure I would buy second hand electronics unless you really know the seller and the history.
Yes I agree, you could get stuck with some junk but if you know someone from you local club, it can be a way to save a little money.
gav racing on a budget means he only buys 70% of the hopups avalilable....😂
LOL Bloody funny comment. RCKicker silver achievement unlocked.
I really enjoy your videos and have participated in some of your raffels but I would love it if the unsettling AI renders of fake people for thumbnails would go away. They make me want to click anything but the video for some reason
Maybe not totally relevant to this video but part of the racing thing......
To me it looks like race meets have a few preliminary rounds and then the fastest go through to finals. What puts me off is I'll admit I'm a crap driver and don't have the time to become anywhere near decent. This has 2 impacts of getting in the way of people that are good and trying for pb and my time on the track would be limited. Are all meets like that or do they have pure open session meets where its just an open track all night? Given you are mostly racing the clock then it's not like you need a start or end point to doing laps.
Most meetings have graded heats so you’ll be in with drivers of a similar speed and experience, and every driver gets into an appropriate final.
some local tracks/clubs do open practice. qualifiers just determine who you're grouped with and then there is main events accordingly