I mean hell, I just got 3rd in the Northwest Indoor Series hosted at Tacoma RC in Tacoma, WA in the Rookie 21.5t class with a TLR 22 1.0. That's a 13 year old rear motor car! And you know what the secret was? 16hrs a week of practice for 3 months. Practice Practice Practice. Like Roach said your car can be fast but that doesn't mean you will be. If you can't keep a car on its wheels or on the optimum racing line, going faster won't solve that problem. Consistency is key folks!
Can't stress this enough. If I'm not at one of my local tracks, then I am on VRC practicing. No wait for batteries, other drivers, just straight track time.
Use what you have available and affordable. Expensive parts brakes just as any other. If you are not among top100 racers in the world you will be better off going for used and stock but personally tuned. Totally agree on the tires: get as many different kinds as you can find (hard/soft/belted/foam/etc) and choose for ride style and race surface.
I'm new, and I can barely do a lap without crashing, I've been wondering if a better radio would help? I'm currently using a traxxas tqi in a team associated 2wd buggy
Love your videos man. I know you can drive but your videos come off from the common man point of view and are the most relatable to somebody like myself. Keep up the great work.
Titanium v steel: Titanium is stronger than steel at the *same weight*. However at a lower weight than steel, it's a lot more fuzzy and that statement isn't really true, and it also depends what you want out of a failure mode. Titanium tends to snap/shatter rather than bend, which isn't ideal for something like a turnbuckle. I'd argue titanium turnbuckles are actually a durability downgrade going to titanium. For screws, the same is generally true, however the heads *are* less likely to strip, which is nice for the stuff under the chassis.
To add to what you already said, comparing two metals without looking at specifc alloys can be rather pointless. Steel can also snap/shatter, this depends massively on the alloy and heat treatment. Titanium grade 2 is fairly weak, some aluminum alloys have similar strength. Titanium grade 5 on the other hand is stronger than mild steel, but not as hard or strong as high strength steel. As a real world example, I tried some grade 5 screws to mount the shocks on my 2wd buggy. After some time they started to bend and finally break, while a 12.9 screw works fine in the same application.
I run the10BL 120 in all my 10th scale cars and trucks and always have since 2020. I've never cooked one even when running a 7T with a HV lipo in my B74.1D. I buy expensiveish servos but have never felt the need to use any other ESC.
Great video. I just recently retired my 2005-vintage RC10 B4 when the B7 came out. Never had any of the 5 or 6 series cars, so figured it was time to finally buy a new chassis. That "ancient" B4 got me several TQs, podiums, and a couple of points series overall wins. Drive smooth, drive consistent, win races. @2:13 I really noticed this going from 21.5 (Justock spec) Buggy to 17.5 (open motor) Buggy. The Justock 21.5 motor is so soft, it's super easy on tires. A set of AKA Scribbles lasted me THREE points series. Not races, entire series. I guess to be fair I occasionally would run a set of AKA Slicks, but most races were done on the Scribbles. Moving to 17.5 this year has been an eye opener in how fast I go through tires. It's more like 3-4 race weekends per set now, at least for rears.
@@ZingZingNZ Outdoor nitro? I run 8th scale EBuggy indoor and while they do go through tires faster than the 2wd cars, I don't find it excessive. That said we mostly run ghost tread to slick on hard pack indoor clay, rather than pins. I could see needing tires a lot more often outdoor where having a sharp pin edge makes a big difference in grip, and running the softer compounds.
I'm new and had a set of scribbles that came on the used car I bought, Then I tried a set of Smoothie 2 silvers on the clay track I go to. And the difference was absolutely shocking 😲, they stick to the track like glue, I was sliding everywhere with the scribbles, I think they were old, tho, and they were pretty hard.
I really enjoy listening to your advice, I try to pick information here and there, I don't actually really race, but I do like these buggies a lot! And that 120A ESC for the 10th scale, I have that one in my Xray, for me it is fantastic!
I'm being reminded of that old saying that usually applied to golf ⛳️ "it's the Indian, Not the arrow" , and RUclips, please don't get hyper sensitive... this sport really just like golf. Comes down to raw skill. People out there who've never devoted some time to golf wanta have a goof at me that's fine..😂 but if you ever seen the purity and balance to just smooth an awesome flight around the course and really make it look easy with low score results, then you'll know what I mean when you understand that this is a game too of minimizing mistakes when and wherever possible, aka course management. Just like racing you see everyone it seems at a certain part of the track having complete comfort where you struggle. I always wanted to see a video on the cheapest parts possible on a basic set up buggy, looked over, and tuned by a pro then raced around a technical track, and see what the outcome would be. Going back, Because I've played with scratch golfers who would ask me for a go with my 20 year old big 5 clubs. One guy a "lefy" used my driver and hit my righthand club dead center 270 yards😮 not kidding. So I'm approaching this just like golf, or skateboarding cause both of those were challenging always taunting me to give up, but I did not!!! and actually started getting some respect for my hardworking after some time. That is a beautiful track in this video by the way❤
Im new to RC, I bought a used team associated 2wd buggy. I tried it on the clay indoor track, near me a couple times with the tires that came with it. And then tried it with some smoothie 2 silver slicks and the difference was absolutely shocking! They stick to the track like glue.
The main first upgrade i allways get for my 1/10 buggys are aluminium stearing parts. I allways break the plastic stearing parts that come with the kits on the first track day.
Most kits and RTRs today come with most everything you need to preform, like any skill, practice is key. Some tweaking is necessary but really it’s all skill. I’m going to do the way back thing again, back when I raced competitively, there was this competitor friend of mine who owned and raced a Tamiya Fox. Yes I said Fox. We raced in stock class and he would beat anyone and pretty much everyone with more expensive cars and equipment. RC10s, Kyosho, custom stuff, he ate them up. It was all skill, he could just run that car better than most and placed in several high end races in Florida back when we raced.
Great video bro!! Using what is affordable is still an excellent choice to have fun and be in the hobby. Keeping up with the Jones, isn't a must. Heck I run budget Spektrum stuff in my race cars and still have a blast at the track. Keep up the great work Cade!
All 100% valid points I might add unless you’re attempting to run at a very high level you don’t always need the newest gear to have fun and still be competitive. Also hot garage tell me your from the south without telling me your from the south 🤣🤣🤣🤣 My garage (1st floor basement) is where I go to hide when my un air-conditioned house is to hot 🥵
The main reason you need the latest and greatest is because the local Track hobby shop only carries parts for the newest models. Unless you are going to bring every part you may need in case it breaks.
Also because the manufacturers generally only make parts for the newest models. Unless they're XRAY, which makes parts for their newest models plus any parts for previous models that were carried over to the newest model. Or HPI which _technically_ only makes parts for their newest models but keeps the mounting holes the same on everything so that the new parts fit their old cars. Or Traxxas, which doesn't actually bother to update their models apart from changing the color of their plastic. Or Mugen Seki, which rarely makes new models to begin with.
Well just to get in this titanium is mostly too reduce top weight. Then add weight where you need it. Thats what I heard. I personally haven’t dropped 100s of dollars of titanium parts or ceramic bearings. And I have a great TIME. But so true practice practice. Before a club race I tried going to the track at least 2-3 times out of the week for 4hrs. Before the weekend.
Good video… probably would add the servo and power system are almost equally important IMO… your speed on the track, needs to be backed by steering quickness… even the servo straightening back up, is slower on a slow servo… as you get faster, the servo will be the limiting factor…
I suppose i may add that when your skill is less, a slightly slower servo benefits you on correcting the car down the straights and forces you to be smooth… its hard to be too jerky when your servo naturally turns slowly…
You know what would be particularly helpful, especially for people in my position? IDK if I asked this before, but a "how to find tracks near you" guide. And barring that, a "how to start your own RC racing club and/or track" video. Because I've looked, and it's not looking too promising near me in upstate SC. A couple oval tracks, a few outdoor 1/8th tracks that are dubiously active, and nothing indoor on carpet or astro, and literally zero drift tracks.
For most of my 1/10th scale stuff I shoot for the middle. In my B6.4D I am using a HW Juststock XR10. I have a nicer ECS in my B74.2, but it came from my touring car. I have no plans to run mod anytime soon so ESCs that only do 0 timing are fine for now. I am shooting for the middle with servos as well, both are under $100. I'll care more about lightweight stuff or better quality when I am consistently making the A main. For now that gear won't help me, it is more about keeping the cars on the wheels.
Roach also mentioned VRC in this video. I would be interested to know how many people use VRC. I do have it personally, but it is hard for me to recommend to others for various reasons. A video on VRC may be cool, it has been around for a long time (& it shows..)
Not a subscriber and not a buggy guy but the advice here is the same I give to newbies getting into RC drift. Everyone wants some purchase validation but I see a LOT of folks thinking that they need to be like everyone else on track to fit in. I can’t speak for any other form of RC racing but in drift, it’s all about the way you drive, not the way your car looks. Looks don’t win points on track but driving does. Build what your budget allows. Sure, there’s a lot of cheap parts but some are better than others. In the same respect, buying an expensive part won’t make you any better because it cost more. I get everyone wants “the best” but one needs to also remember just how ambiguous that term really is. Budget, commitment and driving skill will determine what you end up buying but you don’t need the absolute “best of the best” parts to be competitive. Knowledgeable parts selection, proper setup and consistent driving will matter more than anything else.
Hey Roach, love your content however I feel maybe it would be a more pleasurable to watch if the track clips weren’t blurry. I really like hearing your voice and content, it’s like ASMR, but the videos, are you using a filter to make such blurry effect or something?
It's probably cause they are zoomed in a lot. I need to upgrade my go pro so I can record at a higher resolution at the same frame rate. I appreciate the kind words though
I would love to see a video of a lap time comparison with a cheap vs. expensive radio. I was particularly looking for one comparison of the traxxas tqi radio vs. an expensive radio. And I can't find any comparison like that on RUclips
Interesting video, i just run cheap i.e brushed motor and standard 7.2 nimh battery. Rc is about fun. If you want to be a winner, invest time first, then coin. Just saying.
convergent evolution. Cars haven't changed much in teh past 30yrs, so older stuff and off brand stuff is reasonably competitive and capable of more than teh average driver s capable of.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
Love your videos man! Keep up the great work!
Thanks Mark! I appreciate the kind words.
I mean hell, I just got 3rd in the Northwest Indoor Series hosted at Tacoma RC in Tacoma, WA in the Rookie 21.5t class with a TLR 22 1.0. That's a 13 year old rear motor car! And you know what the secret was? 16hrs a week of practice for 3 months. Practice Practice Practice. Like Roach said your car can be fast but that doesn't mean you will be. If you can't keep a car on its wheels or on the optimum racing line, going faster won't solve that problem. Consistency is key folks!
Oh hey I saw that on FB! Congrats man and thanks for watching 😊
@RoachRC Dang man, had no idea you followed my local track. That's awesome!
Rear motor. I bet you got some people mad.
So you think the mp10e tk12 is a good one to start out racing with?? Will practice about 15-20 hrs a week. Is it pretty durable?
In my opinion VRC is the best thing out there for a driver that doesnt have a track in a reasonable distance to go and practice.
Can't stress this enough. If I'm not at one of my local tracks, then I am on VRC practicing. No wait for batteries, other drivers, just straight track time.
Good stuff man. Getting around the track on 4 wheels always makes you faster. Like you said, practice practice.
Use what you have available and affordable. Expensive parts brakes just as any other. If you are not among top100 racers in the world you will be better off going for used and stock but personally tuned. Totally agree on the tires: get as many different kinds as you can find (hard/soft/belted/foam/etc) and choose for ride style and race surface.
I find, for on road especially, that the ESC you can relatively "cheap out" on but for the motor the more the merrier. More money = more fast.
Completely agree with what was said here. Upgrade your parts when needed.
If you can't go the whole run without crashing once, you don't need anything more than you've already got.
I'm new, and I can barely do a lap without crashing, I've been wondering if a better radio would help?
I'm currently using a traxxas tqi in a team associated 2wd buggy
😂Not at all true.
Love your videos man. I know you can drive but your videos come off from the common man point of view and are the most relatable to somebody like myself. Keep up the great work.
Titanium v steel:
Titanium is stronger than steel at the *same weight*. However at a lower weight than steel, it's a lot more fuzzy and that statement isn't really true, and it also depends what you want out of a failure mode. Titanium tends to snap/shatter rather than bend, which isn't ideal for something like a turnbuckle. I'd argue titanium turnbuckles are actually a durability downgrade going to titanium.
For screws, the same is generally true, however the heads *are* less likely to strip, which is nice for the stuff under the chassis.
To add to what you already said, comparing two metals without looking at specifc alloys can be rather pointless. Steel can also snap/shatter, this depends massively on the alloy and heat treatment. Titanium grade 2 is fairly weak, some aluminum alloys have similar strength. Titanium grade 5 on the other hand is stronger than mild steel, but not as hard or strong as high strength steel. As a real world example, I tried some grade 5 screws to mount the shocks on my 2wd buggy. After some time they started to bend and finally break, while a 12.9 screw works fine in the same application.
Really not true.
@voodooreptiles3553 go on....
I run the10BL 120 in all my 10th scale cars and trucks and always have since 2020. I've never cooked one even when running a 7T with a HV lipo in my B74.1D. I buy expensiveish servos but have never felt the need to use any other ESC.
Great video. I just recently retired my 2005-vintage RC10 B4 when the B7 came out. Never had any of the 5 or 6 series cars, so figured it was time to finally buy a new chassis. That "ancient" B4 got me several TQs, podiums, and a couple of points series overall wins. Drive smooth, drive consistent, win races.
@2:13 I really noticed this going from 21.5 (Justock spec) Buggy to 17.5 (open motor) Buggy. The Justock 21.5 motor is so soft, it's super easy on tires. A set of AKA Scribbles lasted me THREE points series. Not races, entire series. I guess to be fair I occasionally would run a set of AKA Slicks, but most races were done on the Scribbles. Moving to 17.5 this year has been an eye opener in how fast I go through tires. It's more like 3-4 race weekends per set now, at least for rears.
8th scale we are 5 sets as an amateur a weekend
@@ZingZingNZ Outdoor nitro? I run 8th scale EBuggy indoor and while they do go through tires faster than the 2wd cars, I don't find it excessive. That said we mostly run ghost tread to slick on hard pack indoor clay, rather than pins. I could see needing tires a lot more often outdoor where having a sharp pin edge makes a big difference in grip, and running the softer compounds.
I'm new and had a set of scribbles that came on the used car I bought, Then I tried a set of Smoothie 2 silvers on the clay track I go to. And the difference was absolutely shocking 😲, they stick to the track like glue, I was sliding everywhere with the scribbles, I think they were old, tho, and they were pretty hard.
I really enjoy listening to your advice, I try to pick information here and there, I don't actually really race, but I do like these buggies a lot! And that 120A ESC for the 10th scale, I have that one in my Xray, for me it is fantastic!
I'm being reminded of that old saying that usually applied to golf ⛳️ "it's the Indian, Not the arrow" , and RUclips, please don't get hyper sensitive... this sport really just like golf. Comes down to raw skill. People out there who've never devoted some time to golf wanta have a goof at me that's fine..😂 but if you ever seen the purity and balance to just smooth an awesome flight around the course and really make it look easy with low score results, then you'll know what I mean when you understand that this is a game too of minimizing mistakes when and wherever possible, aka course management. Just like racing you see everyone it seems at a certain part of the track having complete comfort where you struggle. I always wanted to see a video on the cheapest parts possible on a basic set up buggy, looked over, and tuned by a pro then raced around a technical track, and see what the outcome would be. Going back, Because I've played with scratch golfers who would ask me for a go with my 20 year old big 5 clubs. One guy a "lefy" used my driver and hit my righthand club dead center 270 yards😮 not kidding. So I'm approaching this just like golf, or skateboarding cause both of those were challenging always taunting me to give up, but I did not!!! and actually started getting some respect for my hardworking after some time. That is a beautiful track in this video by the way❤
Im new to RC, I bought a used team associated 2wd buggy. I tried it on the clay indoor track, near me a couple times with the tires that came with it. And then tried it with some smoothie 2 silver slicks and the difference was absolutely shocking! They stick to the track like glue.
The main first upgrade i allways get for my 1/10 buggys are aluminium stearing parts. I allways break the plastic stearing parts that come with the kits on the first track day.
I'm using my 2013 D413's still 😎. Always having fun
Most kits and RTRs today come with most everything you need to preform, like any skill, practice is key. Some tweaking is necessary but really it’s all skill.
I’m going to do the way back thing again, back when I raced competitively, there was this competitor friend of mine who owned and raced a Tamiya Fox. Yes I said Fox. We raced in stock class and he would beat anyone and pretty much everyone with more expensive cars and equipment. RC10s, Kyosho, custom stuff, he ate them up. It was all skill, he could just run that car better than most and placed in several high end races in Florida back when we raced.
Great video bro!! Using what is affordable is still an excellent choice to have fun and be in the hobby. Keeping up with the Jones, isn't a must. Heck I run budget Spektrum stuff in my race cars and still have a blast at the track. Keep up the great work Cade!
All 100% valid points I might add unless you’re attempting to run at a very high level you don’t always need the newest gear to have fun and still be competitive.
Also hot garage tell me your from the south without telling me your from the south 🤣🤣🤣🤣
My garage (1st floor basement) is where I go to hide when my un air-conditioned house is to hot 🥵
Sweep Racing makes a great budget 1/10 scale tire!!
I mean I consider them cheap, they cost less than most brands!
Great vid, but steel fasteners are stronger than titanium. But Ti is lighter, almost corrosion proof, and you can easily home anodize it.
Jet co are good tires.
Always happy to see a new Roach video. Love this channel.
The main reason you need the latest and greatest is because the local Track hobby shop only carries parts for the newest models. Unless you are going to bring every part you may need in case it breaks.
Also because the manufacturers generally only make parts for the newest models. Unless they're XRAY, which makes parts for their newest models plus any parts for previous models that were carried over to the newest model. Or HPI which _technically_ only makes parts for their newest models but keeps the mounting holes the same on everything so that the new parts fit their old cars. Or Traxxas, which doesn't actually bother to update their models apart from changing the color of their plastic. Or Mugen Seki, which rarely makes new models to begin with.
Good point @@VestedUTuber
Great to see your back enjoy your videos!
You have been missed glad to see this great info as always
Well just to get in this titanium is mostly too reduce top weight. Then add weight where you need it. Thats what I heard. I personally haven’t dropped 100s of dollars of titanium parts or ceramic bearings. And I have a great TIME. But so true practice practice. Before a club race I tried going to the track at least 2-3 times out of the week for 4hrs. Before the weekend.
Good video… probably would add the servo and power system are almost equally important IMO… your speed on the track, needs to be backed by steering quickness… even the servo straightening back up, is slower on a slow servo… as you get faster, the servo will be the limiting factor…
You want to get a servo thats strong enough, and goes about .09 or faster at 180 degrees of throw..
I suppose i may add that when your skill is less, a slightly slower servo benefits you on correcting the car down the straights and forces you to be smooth… its hard to be too jerky when your servo naturally turns slowly…
You know what would be particularly helpful, especially for people in my position? IDK if I asked this before, but a "how to find tracks near you" guide. And barring that, a "how to start your own RC racing club and/or track" video. Because I've looked, and it's not looking too promising near me in upstate SC. A couple oval tracks, a few outdoor 1/8th tracks that are dubiously active, and nothing indoor on carpet or astro, and literally zero drift tracks.
For most of my 1/10th scale stuff I shoot for the middle. In my B6.4D I am using a HW Juststock XR10. I have a nicer ECS in my B74.2, but it came from my touring car. I have no plans to run mod anytime soon so ESCs that only do 0 timing are fine for now. I am shooting for the middle with servos as well, both are under $100. I'll care more about lightweight stuff or better quality when I am consistently making the A main. For now that gear won't help me, it is more about keeping the cars on the wheels.
Roach also mentioned VRC in this video. I would be interested to know how many people use VRC. I do have it personally, but it is hard for me to recommend to others for various reasons. A video on VRC may be cool, it has been around for a long time (& it shows..)
Thanks mate, loving your work
Grate videos man! Keep up the great work!
Not a subscriber and not a buggy guy but the advice here is the same I give to newbies getting into RC drift.
Everyone wants some purchase validation but I see a LOT of folks thinking that they need to be like everyone else on track to fit in.
I can’t speak for any other form of RC racing but in drift, it’s all about the way you drive, not the way your car looks. Looks don’t win points on track but driving does.
Build what your budget allows. Sure, there’s a lot of cheap parts but some are better than others. In the same respect, buying an expensive part won’t make you any better because it cost more.
I get everyone wants “the best” but one needs to also remember just how ambiguous that term really is. Budget, commitment and driving skill will determine what you end up buying but you don’t need the absolute “best of the best” parts to be competitive. Knowledgeable parts selection, proper setup and consistent driving will matter more than anything else.
I think you should start with the latest model, new or used. Parts are available for new models and old models can get complicated for parts
Looks like an awesome track. Where is it? My towns track is the lamest track I've seen.
I think you should always get a pretty high end servo.
I'm looking for a motor, a speed control and a 2s battery, for a team associated 2wd roller, what would you recommend?
I found a package deal. A hobbywing XR10 pro G2s, with blue tooth Programmer. 2 motiv 2s batteries, and a reedy 17.5 for $250 for everything.
For racing do you need expensive batteries for racing?
Like top of the libe or will aby lipo ve ok?
It depends. You don't need 100% top of the line batteries but it helps to have quality batteries that won't go up in smoke on you
Outstanding… on point …! 😎🦾
Tires and ceramic bearins is all i do.
Good information 👍
Hey Roach, love your content however I feel maybe it would be a more pleasurable to watch if the track clips weren’t blurry. I really like hearing your voice and content, it’s like ASMR, but the videos, are you using a filter to make such blurry effect or something?
It's probably cause they are zoomed in a lot. I need to upgrade my go pro so I can record at a higher resolution at the same frame rate.
I appreciate the kind words though
I would love to see a video of a lap time comparison with a cheap vs. expensive radio.
I was particularly looking for one comparison of the traxxas tqi radio vs. an expensive radio. And I can't find any comparison like that on RUclips
Interesting video, i just run cheap i.e brushed motor and standard 7.2 nimh battery.
Rc is about fun. If you want to be a winner, invest time first, then coin.
Just saying.
Great vids - thanks Roach!
My pleasure
You can drop 50 grams off your ride and not increase lap times. It’s your driving that gets a quick lap time
Could someone be competitive still in 2024 with a RC10B5M? If it had best speed controller and and a new motor?
Yes you could be
We're Up And Ready!!!🎉
Good vid.
I thought a good radio was pretty much a must, because of throttle and steering expo etc?
"the upsidedown with more guns" 🤣
OMFGLOL!!!!!!!!!!! The servo twohundredandsixtyfuckingdollars.........
convergent evolution. Cars haven't changed much in teh past 30yrs, so older stuff and off brand stuff is reasonably competitive and capable of more than teh average driver s capable of.
The upside down or the upside down with more guns 😂 I am 99% sure I know which states you just referenced
I want a computer for vrc
Yooo! Is that Augusta?!
It is Loganville
jcosepts bj4 that ive been racing for like 19? years is very good: )