These Three Step that will Make Your Saab Run SMOOTH!
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2021
- In today's episode, I continue to prep the 2008 saab 9-5 copart edition to make its journey to florida. In the last few video's I fixed the subframe bushings, the headlights, and changed/checked all the fluids! In this episode, I top off the ride quality with fresh spark plugs, a new serpentine belt, and a new upgraded torque mount! I also replaced the crank seal since I was in their with the belt service. After all this work, I was able to really make this car feel literally brand new. Super smooth and efficient. I hope you enjoy. Please like, share, and subscribe!
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Tools & Parts:
Subframe Bushings: amzn.to/2QlFtqO
Tool Set (Sockets): amzn.to/33omuAU
Holesaw (1 1/8): amzn.to/38RiKsP
Oil (4.3qts needed): amzn.to/2WhSFzi
Oil Filter: amzn.to/385nIn
Serpentine Belt: amzn.to/2S3IHmE
Belt Tensioner: amzn.to/3uMguy0
Car Detailing Supplies:
GTECHNIQ - C2 Liquid Crystal: amzn.to/3a3xHf6
Three Stage Paint Correction: amzn.to/3d9WFeG
Foam Pads: amzn.to/3tqnvoF
Buffer: amzn.to/3wSf4Va
Tools & Parts:
Subframe Bushings: amzn.to/2QlFtqO
Tool Set (Sockets): amzn.to/33omuAU
Holesaw (1 1/8): amzn.to/38RiKsP
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Авто/Мото
NGK BCPR7ES-11 are what you put in a SAAB, and if you use the little hole on the belt tensioner you can do the job self and not risk your fingers if your friend loses his grip.
Please dont use those Autolite plugs.. Only NGK on SAABs, and especially on the T7s.. With other branding than the optimized NGK ones you will run into issues with fault codes, rough running and in worst case ruin the Cassette. Please! NGK only!
ONLY ngk
Great infos here. Glad saab community supporting each other
Love seeing this one getting loved on! Very cool you are protecting family with it too.
Best money you can spend on these OG motors is a good oil pressure gauge the minute you buy the car. Pressure loss due to failing o-rings or oil pump is identifiable when you see less than 12-15psi at warm idle. Oil light will not go on until your down to like 5psi, at which point the valvetrain is running pretty much dry, and eventually the mains, rods and cam bearings are not getting enough pressure to protect under normal driving loads. Fantastic engines with crazy good power and economy, so the investment and monitoring is worth it. Plus a cool gauge on the windshield pillar is fun to look at.
Hey Kyle, thanks for your helpful videos. I saw you changing the front subframe bushes on this car. I have a question. the middle original bushings change from 2004, yet poly bushes are all supplied the same. Does this cause any issues when swapping them out? Thanks!
The spark plugs which you took out of the engine are the originals for these engines with 220 BHP or more.
Looks so easy on video but you are really great at it!
Thank you! Cheers!
Good job Kyle!! Well I got mine all together. Still at base boost. 5psi. So I will be going to visit Ryan to get a smoke test to find the leak.
Hi Kyle:Thanks for the videos on the 9-5 and 9-3.Just found out about your channel in Dec 2022.Do you have videos on where to find the 9-5 or reliable resources?Also do you sell saabs?Thanks for any information you may have.I noticed you said the 2006 and 2004 are good model years.Any others.
KYLE on the tensioner there is a smal hole that you can put a small drill bit through when you have the belt tensioner cranked forward to get the belt off it makes it so much easier to lock it in the detensioned spot...put the belt on then release the tension..... look at a picture of a new 95 tensioner it comes with a little metal piece that goes through the hole...use the drill bit in the same hole
yup! i put an allen key in there to hold it in place...otherwise getting the 1/2 inch extension back on with no belt is nearly impossible.
I just picked a 2000 9-5 up. Thanks for your videos.
I'm gonna guess, oil change, atf change, spark plugs, before I watch it... Let's see how wrong I was😂
Maybe I missed it in another video, but any update on the blue 9-3 convertible?
When i did my water pump I removed and replaced the belt (using the idler pulley) with the engine mount in place. Very difficult!
Im going to buy a - 03 model and the eller said he changed everything you reccomend. From oilpan seal to kasette. Now how do I check if all the work is done without lifting the car or unscrewing anything. The serpentiner belt for instance.
My ol' man had a saying "Don't fix what ain't broken", but in this case it's justified. Besides you'll have peace of mind knowing your sister-in-law will be good to go in FLA., that is if she doesn't crash it again!👍
Ps. One word of advise, pull string hoodie is never a good idea around running serpentine belts. Ask me how I know..😂
The real problem is when the main seal starts to leak on the transmission side. I had to take off the transmission to get it replaced. What happens is the seal gets hard because of the heat and looses flexibility. Then oil will start dripping on the hot catalytic and burn.
Where did you get that seal tool?
I posted a saab short belt tutorial if y’all want.
She’s a tight fit but it does delete the center pulley that you don’t even need.
Cheers!
Only use NGK bcpr7es plugs on any Saab, nothing else
BCR8ES for high horsepower.
Use only NGK !
For engines over 220 BHP use PFR6H10, and in case of hard driving use PFR7H10
@@orenkipnis7058 those are ngk….
See this for more info genuinesaab.com/psi/files/sparkplugsdi.htm
The correct NGK plug provides part of the engine control system. The correct ones vary by engine/model but they are all NGK. When the engine DIC goes through engine shut down diagnostics, it cannot do so without the correct NGK plugs. The “spark shower” cannot occur. Use of the incorrect plugs will cause fault codes and risk destruction of your DIC.
@@tspenceriii the t7 works in same way in all t7 motor, only difference is what program you put in there.
Correct plugs for that engine are: Platinum NGK PFR6H-10 (can't quite see if that's what you took out) or Copper NGK BCPR7ES use nothing else.
What plugs would you recommend for the B205E engine? Only modification is the 210hp stage 1 Hirsch software tune in the ECU.
Very curious about the iridiums question. Guessing the NG2.0T is different, since I ran a set of TT's for 60k with no issues and no further misfires. Plugs were still looking good and ran great when I sold it. What have you heard about them on the OG engine? I'll pull one out of the Viggen to see what plugs Genuinesaab put in there when they upgraded the engine to st3. Should be interesting.
Autocad gratis ritprogram
👍👍👍!
nice hoodie....
While doing the crank seal. Replace the oil pump O-ring as well it's often in worse condition than the actual crank seal itself. And they cost like 2 bucks, so it´s in my opinion WAYY worth it.
however that clamp is a huge pain to remove without proper tools.
as an added bonus, you´ll clearly see the condition of the oil pump itself. could perhaps give some useful information. / ? :)
And if im not mistaken. won't the seal be at risk of leaking when not lubed before installation?
( not intended to be judging, just curoius, / trying to re-evaluate and collaborate )
why is the torque mount/ dog bone yellow? I thought to replace mine with a Powerflex, but my indy talked me out of it, saying the softness absorbed vibration
I like the polyurethane stuff. Increase your rpm by 50 on idle it will lower vibrations..tech2 programming. Takes 1 minutes to do next time your at your shop
My 9-5 has the poly torque mount and there is an engine thump not present in the 9-3. Not sure of the benefit but I was told the previous one was pretty shot after 20 years.
I have 2000 9-3 and i got 11mpg. what is wrong?
So i bought a 2003 9-3 linear a few months back. I want to replace the spark plugs, i already have them. I just bought the exact ngk plugs that were listed in the owner's manual. But then i started learning about how some engines are tuned, and that a tuned engine takes a different plug than a stock engine. Is this true? Because I'm beginning to wonder if the previous owner tuned this engine. And i don't know how to tell. When i floor it, the boost Guage goes right up to the red line, but doesn't pass in to the red. Is that how a tuned engine acts, or is that what a stock engine does? Do i need to take it to the saab mechanic and let him but his computer on it to figure this out? And if it's tuned... will it take a different plug than what is listed in my owner's manual?
Because of this...i don't dare change these plugs yet...
Confused..🤔
Could ask your previous owner if it was tuned, but they don’t go into the red stock to my knowledge. Mine has been tuned for a while and I do run different plugs with it.
@@macmerges5642 thanks Mac👍🏻
Auto lite plugs?
Really...NGK always
How's the cooling system doing on this car? Hopefully the radiator is still in good shape, and no more Saab stories like in Chicago among others that we Saab enthusiasts typically face. lol
was all replaced on the rebuilds
No 60fps?
There’s a lot of really helpful information here thank you! Just sucks how this video is targeted to men only and not everyone by calling everyone boys :(
What an utterly useless construction when you have to remove all this in order to replace a serpentine belt. Much less of a hassle on a 9000, remove the inner liner, slack the tensioner and replace. No wonder you had to break the bank when it was done at an official dealer.
I have no idea why he removed the engine mount, it really isnt needed. You can do it by removing the wheel and the plastic liner. You can reach most of it from there.
First!
👏